Dutchy's 1988 Rover Mini Project

[dutchy1978]

I didn't change my bump stops. I didn't see anything on the website or in the fitting instructions about changing them. In regards to the springs, I decided to go with the Fast road version from Minitastic http://www.minitastic.co.uk/home1.htm There are heaps of good reviews about them on other sites and even spoke to some one locally who had fitted them and they also recommended them.

On another note, I made a heap of progress on the weekend. I fitted up the fuel lines and fuel filter. Put in the front and rear sub frame and connected all the brake lines and cables. Also set up the wiring harness so that all the plugs are in the right place. Installed both the top and bottom dash pads, speaker wires, subwoofer wiring and handbrake.
http://www.dutchysmini.com/page-7.html

[dutchy1978]

Engine went in on the weekend. Not far from getting a heart beat now.

[94touring]

Two thumbs up  4.gif  Thats nice!  You powder coat all the metalic engine parts or something else? 

[dutchy1978]

Nah, just painted it all when it was stripped down. It doesn't seem to scratch off that easy to we'll see how it goes.

[danotje]

I just checked out your site again, and it is really awesome! My car has been slow going, but it is cool to see that you were in the same spot at one point and are now putting it all back together. Just the thing to keep my motivation up. I finally used my welder last weekend on an unrelated project (first welding since high school), and that was motivating too. Everything is in place (minus the shop crane), now I just need the time and a couple of not insignificant orders from Mini Sport  ::) Great looking car!

[dutchy1978]

Thanks danotje.
Things are going back together nicely. I'd be lying if I said I didn't have to modify some things to get them back in the engine bay. Bend this bend that just to squeeze it all in. I think it is all in now. letââ,¬â,,¢s hope there is nothing left in a box that I have forgotten about.

The wiring harness is all connected and there is no plugs left so it must be correct. The A/C, Alarm siren, horns etc are in too. Youââ,¬â,,¢ll see below that it is jam packed now. letââ,¬â,,¢s hope it starts.
The exhaust, gear linkage, rear wheel arches, fuel tank & steering column are going in over the weekend.
I am out every night till about 11pm so it is taking a toll but cos it is so close you just keep battling on.

I have also thrown in a photo of the half cut that was used. Big difference in appearance. Itââ,¬â,,¢s amazing what cleaning and painting will do. It is like one of the before and after photos of models without makeup and in bad light then with makeup, hair done and plenty of light.

The Halfcut



Now

[dutchy1978]

Threw the wheels on a couple of days ago and went to start it but no good. It chugged away slowly for 10 seconds with full throttle then died. found out that I had to adjust the tappets which fixed the problem. All the cars I have worked on had hydraulic lifters so no idea this had to be done.
It then started first go and sounds strong. Massive relief to know that I have changed all the gaskets from the block up, painted it all, had the head ported, shaved and bigger inlet valves, new K&N air filter, LCB exhaust manifold and transferred it all to my shell including the complete wiring harness and it kicked over.

The smile on my face was as big as this guys.  4.gif

[London Dry]

Dutchy:
Amazing job on your SPI half cut to 1988 Mini. You're an inspiration. I'm new to this forum, working on my SPI, from the gearbox up. I bought my car (my first Mini) with the engine already pulled with dozens of bits in cardboard boxes. I'll be able to use your photo as reference for how it all goes back together in the engine bay.

Do you have any sense of increased performance expectations with the ported head, LCB exhaust and other mods? I've read that SPIs are pretty limited by their ECU as far as increases in HP and torque.

[dutchy1978]

I haven't driven a 1275 before so I am not going to know the difference. My 1988 was a 1L auto so I will definitely notice the difference between the two. I just wanted to get the most of the SPI while I was doing the resto. If i am not happy with the power once I get it up and running I will explore the option of a programable ECU to increase the power. Lots to do before then though. Good luck with you SPI project. Make sure you check out my website to see the photos of the half mini as this will help you the most.

[London Dry]

Wow, Steve! I spent the last 45 minutes going through your site seeing your MAJOR resto. Kudos!

Yes, I can use your photos of the engine bay and your step-by-step to get my car back together.

Thanks for sharing all your work with everyone at this site.

[London Dry]

Okay, I've really been bitten by the engine bay detailing bug. I'd be crazy not to do what I can while the engine/trans is out of the car.

Steve, I sent you a note from your own site, which asked what prep you did on all the bits and pieces, like the alternator and starter, to get them so nice?

Also, what paints are you using on the engine block and gearbox/clutch? Is that flat aluminum spray paint? What brand? Is it high-heat?
What brand of red for the block?

I'm a newbie, and need the knowledge.

[dutchy1978]

All paint for engine and components are just spray cans from your local Auto store. I used engine paint (pic of engine on the can) as it is supposed to be heat proof.

There are only standard colours for the heat paint so red, silver, black is what i used. there wasn't any variants of these colours. all were gloss.
Just make sure that you clean the components really well and use a prepsol or equivelant to remove the oil before painting.
cheers,

[London Dry]

Thanks for the advice. I'm working away on the starter and Alternator with wire brushes and solvent to get off all the oil and corrosion. I'll post some pics after I've sprayed them. Same deal for the clutch housing, gearbox, and block.

I've gone through a hundred Q-Tips getting all the bits on the firewall cleaned up. I ripped out the insulation foam that was up against the firewall. I can see how that would collect moisture and rot the scuttle -- so far no rust or rot -- thanks Dan for that tip.

The subframe is degreased too, and could use a spot or two of black paint.

Anyway, you've set a high bar, Steve.

[94touring]

Dana check out the plane I painted and the baking soda blaster setup I used to clean around rivets.  Might make cleaning your bits and pieces a lot easier and its very cost effective.  Threads in the lounge somewhere. 

[London Dry]

Great job on the plane, Dan. I liked the big bag of Arm & Hammer sitting on the wing, I did a little research on soda blasting and found this site showing how to rig an air nozzle and some plastic tubing into a venturi-effect soda blaster:

http://www.aircooledtech.com/tools-on-the-cheap/soda_blaster/

This guy has a link to a video made by Garage Night showing how it's done. Amazing results:

http://www.garagenight.tv/diy-soda-blasting-build-your-own-rig-cheap/

I'll try this on my alternator, starter, coil, etc.

Steve: I bought "Universal Red"  and "Cast Aluminum" engine spray paint today at the auto supply store, along with a can of acetone to wipe the parts down before spraying. I'll take some snaps and post when I'm done.

How are the final steps going on your project?

[94touring]

Yeah works great and is doesn't cost a lot.  Harbor freight sells the guns premade too if you aren't inclined to make your own. 

[London Dry]

Harbor Freight -- my new best friends. Amazing prices. Bought a puller for my clutch assembly for $9. How can they sell stuff so cheap?

Weird how their ads keep showing up on all the sites I visit after I go do a look-see at their site.  Gotta love third-party cookies.

[dutchy1978]

Project is still moving along nicely. Yesterday I repainted the door jams, engine bay channel, boot channel, sides of bonnet and tops of doors as there was a grey over spray line from when we painted the undercoat before the red. looks much better now.

Fitted all bits up to the boot lid so it is ready to go on now. Ran some wires for the front speakers, and all wiring is in behind the dash. everything electrical seems to work which is s good thing. Alarm, central locking, 4 speaker stereo with sub and Bluetooth kit has also been installed. Wood grain dash, steering column and steering wheel going in tonight.

[94touring]

You're moving at a nice pace, you'll have it on the road in no time looks like. 

[dutchy1978]

i'd like to think that but i hit a snag when puttin gin the dash on Monday night. When the plug is plugged into the back of the instrument cluster the engine does not turn off when I turn the key off.  spent the past few days trying to work it out and still am no closer to it getting solved.
50.gif

if anyone can help please go to the following topic.

http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?topic=299.0

[94touring]

I had read that, sounds odd.  I have no clue. 

[dutchy1978]

Painting on the weekend went well. Much happier that I did it as it was bothering me. Thanks to the great work of my brother Juzza.

Put the boot lid back together, dash is now in along with the steering column and other relevant accessories like the radio. I will hopefully sort the wiring issue out at a later time. In the meantime I have to disconnect the battery to turn the car off. Oh well, at least the dash looks good.

Check out Page 8 of my website for more photos and detailed info.

http://www.dutchysmini.com/page-8---the-engine-is-running.html

[dutchy1978]

Wiring all fixed now. Bit to do over the weekend before Monday which is when at the interior goes in.

[MiniGene]

Very nice!!! 

[London Dry]

Hey Steve -- can you share the specific mods to your head? Amount of porting, new valve sizes, etc? Also, the specific model number of the LCB header you have there? I'd like to do the same to my SPI. Did you have any issues with not having the CAT plugged into the ECU?

Thanks!