Clancy's Moke Restoration

Started by MiniDave, October 08, 2018, 09:10:58 AM

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jeff10049

Neat Project 4.gif

Re the previous discussion about the decision to powder coat, you would never really need to remove it some people powder coat cars before starting body work and do all the filler and paint on top of the powder coat. The electrostatic application of powder makes it great for getting into tight areas for rust protection.

Thermobond, Lab Metal, and Devcon aluminum can be used as filler under powder.
Devcon can sometimes hose you test it first make sure it does not lift needs cured at 150 or so before final sanding.

I recommend baking it at coating temp before coating to find spots that don't work or edges of filler that lift. And there will for sure be some bad areas better to fix before it's a big problem. After fixing bake it again and fix whatever fixes didn't work it will take a few tries to keep everything down. A clear powder on top of your color is also not a bad idea.

Looking forward to the progress.
Jeff



MiniDave

#26
After 7Ent quoted him $840 ( a $394 discounted price? How DO these guys stay in business?) plus shipping for just the panel no grill, the $500 delivered quote from MokePanels for the panel and the grill looks pretty good - I think he's going with that.

My understanding is he has a guy who will metal finish the car, weld up al the holes and replace the rusty bits, then it's going to the powdercoaters. since it's a race pit car and neighborhood car, a perfect body isn't in the cards.

But as always with Clancy, it's an evolving process.....  ;D
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

gr8kornholio

Simple.  Because the "informed" are by and far a severe minority.  We don't get it cause we are the type that take the time to do research. 

Even I got it a little when I bought my car.  I thought I had a good handle on things and was glad to be buying a car with way more in it than I was paying for it.  After finding this forum and more research on my own I found I was still under informed.  Just glad I took my time before throwing away money.  But I actually found minispares on accident. 

Actually kind of feel bad for the PO cause they could have saved a fortune with a little time spent.   
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

94touring

It peeves me off when I see people getting ripped. The sommerford guys telling Vikram his car is worth 250 bucks and he should spent 30k on a restore is the type of thing I'd put my foot up someone's ass if they pulled that on me.

drmini

Quote from: MiniDave on October 28, 2018, 07:26:17 PM
He's waiting for a quote from Mokeparts, but I'm thinking he may just fix the one on the car. 7Ent wants $840 plus shipping, the body man quoted half that to fix the one he has.......
I don't understand why his bodyman would want $420 to fix that one?  Doesn't look that bad to me.  At least the grille portion is intact and not bent except for a tiny dent on the bottom corner, but it's not into the slat area.  Weld up a couple of holes and looks very useable to me.  Am I missing something?  Also, how much will the bodyman charge to remove the old one and weld in the new one?  Labor is labor, and that is on top of the new part price.  Anyway, something to consider.  Also, if you/he decides to go with the new panel, I'd gladly take any of the old scrap panels you remove.  I have more time to fix stuff than funds to buy new.  Keep me in mind.

MiniDave

Will do.....not my choice of course, and it could be that he wants the removeable grill deal. I'll see him Sat for breakfast and mention these things.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniDave

Clancy decided to just have the grill repaired, so he's working on that.....he had the entire body heated in the 700* oven to burn off the paint, then he had the entire thing soda blasted....quite a bit more rust appeared after that but he has a friend with a welder, so they are dealing with that, once it's done he'll have the entire body powder coated the same color as the parts I'm working on.

He dropped off the rest of the rear subframe components that he had powder coated, including the radius arms.....I didn't know he was going to do them or I would have pressed out the bushings ad bearings, Since we didn't I get to replace them. I'm pretty sure the plastic sleeve inside is......well, melted into a blob.

I also noticed that they coated where the seal lip rides on the stub axle, we can't decide whether to just leave it, as with a little grease it should slide on the coating pretty well, or grind the stuff off. I've noticed it's really on there and tough as nails, I may leave it.....

I'm going thru all the parts and taking a tap to all the threads just in case, once I have it all laid out I'll start assembling again. Once done he's promised to come get it so I don't have to store it for the several months till he's ready to put it in the car - and of course the Inno has to be done and gone before I can put the Moke on the rack.

I'm really impressed with the coating, it's very smooth and very tough - and it looks great. Subby and other parts don't match, but it won't show so he doesn't care.....

Some before and after shots......
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MPlayle

Good luck getting the knuckle joints out of all the trumpets where they left them in and powder coated them.

His front control rods are also bent.  I have a pair of stock ones from my Moke project.  I can see if they are straight.


MiniDave

I have some straight ones, I was thinking of just leaving the knuckle joints in as they are.....this Moke will only be driven at low speeds, around a race paddock mostly.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

jeff10049

almost looks like the plastic is still down in the knuckle hole? I'd of thought it would melt?

I would scrape the powder off the seal surface it won't last as long as you think I've been there done that. Is that sealing surface a separate piece that slides on the shaft or am I thinking of the front cv's? I have some of those pieces if needed.


MiniDave

Yes, I expect I have quite a bit of work to do on these before I can assemble them.....
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MPlayle

Let's also hope you get lucky and the swing arms have the early style metal sleeves instead of the plastic ones.


MiniDave

#37
Quote from: jeff10049 on November 24, 2018, 09:52:25 PM
almost looks like the plastic is still down in the knuckle hole? I'd of thought it would melt?

I would scrape the powder off the seal surface it won't last as long as you think I've been there done that. Is that sealing surface a separate piece that slides on the shaft or am I thinking of the front cv's? I have some of those pieces if needed.

Yes, I'm surprised those cups didn't melt too, but I think they're made of nylon and pretty tuff stuff to take all the pressure from the suspension. I'm thinking I'll have to take a chisel to them and split them to get them out of the holes at this point.

The seal surface is part of the stub axle in the back. I'm surprised at how thick this stuff is...it's measurable!

I don't know what it will take to get it off, I'm going to buy a new wire wheel for my 8" grinder, I think I'll get a stiff one rather than a fine. Or I may be able to use one of those 3M paint removing wheels.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MiniDave

The new wire brush on the 8" grinder took the powder coat right off the ends of the knuckles, so that will be OK

I also checked the sockets for the cups and it looks like I already took the cups out before it went to the coaters, so I'm good there as long as the new cups will fit in the sockets, otherwise I'm in for some work to get those cleaned out. I don't think I have any wire wheels that small so I'll have to give that some thought.....
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MPlayle

Are the "moisture" holes in the bottom of the knuckle joint cups still open or did they get clogged with powder coating?

If they are clogged, you will need to open them just to get the nylon up in as they also let the air out as you push in the nylon knuckle cup.


MiniDave

Right, I'll run an 1/8" drill bit thru them....
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

gr8kornholio

Yea those are fun to clean out.  Of course I painted mine with the POR15 since I'm running coilovers.  Did make sure the drain holes were still present.
I am the GR8KORNHOLIO! Are you threatening me?

Saussie Aussie 1965 Australian MK1 Mini.
"Beavis" - 07 MY/MY MCS, B/MY Konig Daylites, JCW sideskirts, TSW springs, TSW lower rear control arms -- Exploring the country with new friends since 11/09.

MiniDave

Just checked, these are still open....but the cups don't fit in the sockets, so I'm going to have to find a way to clean the powdercoat out of the holes. Just ordered a bunch of small parts that I'm missing for Clancy's build.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

94touring

Dremel and some grinding bits will clean the cups right up.

MiniDave

I'll have to borrow Don's again....that's what I used to get the gas caps off too.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Jimini II

A small flapper wheel in a drill will work as well.

MiniDave

Looking over these radius arms I found several issues....when they sandblasted them they didn't cap off the bearings, so sand got in them and ruined the roller bearing, the bushing seems OK, So I made a tool that let me drive out the roller bearing - destroying it of course - then I cleaned up inside and inserted the shaft, using it to guide the new bearing into place. The shaft turns smoothly now.

I also cleaned the coating off the seal surface, and the bearing surfaces in the hubs too. I still have to devise something to clean out the sockets for the knuckle plastic cups. My battery powered Dremel just didn't cut it, so I sent the wife out to buy me some emery cloth - I have a shaft for my die grinder that I can use to make a flappy wheel thingy, if that doesn't get it I'll borrow Don's plug in Dremel and that will get it I think.

I'm waiting for a few bits and bobs before I can put it all together.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MPlayle

Sounds a LOT like Clancy got carried away with rushing things off to the powder coater without thinking ahead.

Did you check about the grease sleeve in the radius arms before installing the new bearings and shafts?


Lone Star Mini

Lone Star Mini
1982 Morris Mini 1000HL (heck of a lot of work ahead of me)
1992(?) Mini Cooper
1964 Austin Cooper
1980 Mini 95 (Pickup)

MiniDave

Quote from: MPlayle on November 26, 2018, 05:30:54 PM
Sounds a LOT like Clancy got carried away with rushing things off to the powder coater without thinking ahead.

Did you check about the grease sleeve in the radius arms before installing the new bearings and shafts?

Yes....to both!  77.gif
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

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