Restoration-Mini

Technical Forums => Restorations => Daves Garage => Topic started by: MiniDave on October 08, 2018, 09:10:58 AM

Title: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on October 08, 2018, 09:10:58 AM
I'll be starting the restoration of Clancy's Moke this week, I don't have a lot of details yet and this promises to be a long, slow build as Clancy's bank account slowly recovers from the previous racing season.

My part at the beginning is to get the subframes built and ready to put under the car. To that end I received both subframes fresh from the powder coaters and retrieved several boxes of parts from another local Mini enthusiast who replaced the bearings in both the front and rear control arms.

My first job will be to strip all the suspension bits down so they can go to the powder coaters - Clancy is a big fan of powder coating, so much so that the body will be coated too instead of painted - unless he changes his mind. Plans remain in flux, so to speak!  ;D

The body is mostly stripped down and is headed off to be soda blasted, after that Clancy will assess the rust and order parts to be welded in. I found some rust, and some old patches, some were done well others not so much. The plan for this car is strictly a run about town and paddock car for the races, so it's more a function than style build, and it's certainly is not headed for concours status!

I had the engine in my engine stand several months ago and not only got it to run but found it was in pretty good shape, with good compression, oil pressure right where it should be and sounded like it would make good power - it's a 1275 AA motor on a magic wand gearbox. Here's the thread on getting the engine to run.... http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?topic=1494.msg25133#msg25133 (http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?topic=1494.msg25133#msg25133)

A few pics of the shell after it was liberated from it's long term storage. Plans right now are to replace the entire front panel as this one has been hit a couple of times, then repair all the rusty patches and send it to be coated - no idea what color tho. The plan is to make it solid and safe to drive, but not concours.

Edit:Clancy says light machine grey

Here are a few pics of the shell on the dolly ready for work.

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Willie_B on October 08, 2018, 09:32:10 AM
That's going to be a chore. Let me know if you need any photos of anything.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on October 08, 2018, 09:42:06 AM
Thanks! I'm sure you, MPlayle and Jedduh will be a big help as things go along.

We're in early days right now, Clancy is in process of stripping the last remaining bits off the shell, then it's going to be blasted, then off to a welder friend of his to patch the holes and make it sound again. Once all that is done it's off to the powder coaters and then it will probably come to me for reassembly.

Clancy has a plan to slightly modify the body near the windshield attaching points to allow it to fold down so it will fit in the race transporter better.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on October 08, 2018, 09:42:40 AM
Since going more functional than show, might I recommend going to a removable front grill for easier service access to the front of the engine?

Since the plan is to replace the front panel, you could go with the later style panel that is already set up for the removable grill or go the route I did.  I let M-Parts build it with the "proper" fixed place grill then cut out the slats to retain the vertical supports.

I did have to order the new removable grill from Australia as M-Parts did not have them in stock.

This is the Aussie site I got the grill from: http://minisport.com.au/moke-gear (http://minisport.com.au/moke-gear)

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on October 08, 2018, 09:46:04 AM
Yeah, the removable grill is a good idea!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: jedduh01 on October 08, 2018, 01:41:39 PM
Good project! Ide love to weld er up!

  A useful moke is fun moke! use it or loose it!

Thoughts on Powdercoat == its going to be sent to blasting soon and be  naked . no protection.. is there any concern or worry about flash rust? or a protective coating to be used before the whole PC Process... im sure with Powdercoat metal just needs to be bare and clean..   

Plenty of talk about PC a body shell = will it holdup?  Flexing etc?  (moke bodies flex for sure)

  Be prepared to put up with M-Parts in England = great proper moke parts suppler but their communication and excution to orders are a bit lacking..

Have fun!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on October 09, 2018, 08:18:41 AM
Jedduh, they will soda blast it again and put it in the oven overnight before it goes into the powder coating booth, once it's coated it goes right back into the oven to bake on.

They did this with the shell of Scott's race Sprite and it still looks good years later. They also did Fitch's Folly and the Fright this way, both looked great when done. it's not the same as paint of course and doesn't look as good as a proper paint job but it's very durable, and as this is going to be a pit vehicle it should hold up well.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: BruceK on October 09, 2018, 08:37:25 AM
Since Moke prices are through the roof now (and presumably will be going forward) does it make any sense to build a vehicle where unorthodox decisions will negatively affect future value?
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on October 09, 2018, 09:24:46 AM
Well, we discussed this....his decision was if it came down to it removing the powdercoat is just a matter of sending it back thru the oven and burning it all off again. A lot of work to R&R all the bits, but not really any more than would be required to paint it inside and out.

But your point is valid, and may be coloring some of our other decisions, such as keeping the drums or switching to discs. Of course it already has a 1275 non standard motor in it too......I'm lobbying for discs myself.

Another factor is cost - he can get it powdercoated for $1500 including the blasting, burning, baking and so on.

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on October 09, 2018, 10:48:29 AM
I know! At the very least I'll lobby for fully built backing plates with single leading shoes rather than the twin leading that's on there now. It needs everything redone, so why spend the money when $200 gets you all new everything.....

I'd rather see him do discs but right now both Spares and Sport are out of their disc brake conversion kits.

Seems like Spares has been out of a lot of stuff lately.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: BruceK on October 09, 2018, 11:14:11 AM
Quote from: MiniDave on October 09, 2018, 10:48:29 AM
I know! At the very least I'll lobby for fully built backing plates with single leading shoes rather than the twin leading that's on there now.

Is today Backwards Day?   8.gif


I agree with Whee, go to discs.  But the folding windshield and powder coat is what I am wondering about.


I'm thinking of the much-modified Penske Moke recently on BaT - too bitsa to find a buyer. 
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on October 09, 2018, 12:40:07 PM
Clancy just came by and picked up some parts to be blasted, coated and/or painted and he agreed to the disc conversion. So once they become available again we'll get one on the way. He's found almost all the missing parts and is ready to start the process on the body.

I'm sure this car will remain in the family indefinitely so sale value just isn't really a consideration. Rather, reliability and long term stability is upper most.

Like I said at the start, this will be a long term project unless/until he finds a buyer for the Aquilla S-2000 racecar.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on October 09, 2018, 01:15:46 PM
Seems I do not need to chime in as one more on the side of converting to disk brakes in the front.

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: drmini on October 09, 2018, 01:33:37 PM
Quote from: MiniDave on October 09, 2018, 10:48:29 AM
I know! At the very least I'll lobby for fully built backing plates with single leading shoes rather than the twin leading that's on there now. It needs everything redone, so why spend the money when $200 gets you all new everything.....

I'd rather see him do discs but right now both Spares and Sport are out of their disc brake conversion kits.

Seems like Spares has been out of a lot of stuff lately.

I certainly don't understand the reference to Single Leading Shoe brakes.  All production Mokes were built long after the introduction of Twin Leading Shoe brakes, so therefore, it shouldn't have SLS brakes.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on October 09, 2018, 02:12:50 PM
I may have my terminology wrong.....which one has two wheel cylinders per side?
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: 94touring on October 09, 2018, 02:22:21 PM
Twin leading have two cylinders per side. 
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on October 09, 2018, 02:30:12 PM
That's what I thought, that's what it has in the front.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: 94touring on October 09, 2018, 02:33:57 PM
I think the confusion is twin leading are better than the singles. 
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: BruceK on October 09, 2018, 04:56:02 PM
Quote from: 94touring on October 09, 2018, 02:33:57 PM
I think the confusion is twin leading are better than the singles.

That's why I said is was backwards day.  Twin beats single.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: jedduh01 on October 11, 2018, 08:28:13 AM
Just to add this to the 'moke' builders brains...

When it comes time for Fuel tank + sending units.. If your Moke sending unit is bad... (they dont offer, MOKE- sending untis anymore)

Go with a 6 Bolt / traveler / van Sending unit.  Still screws in same as stock.
  I straightened the rod a tiny bit  + flipped the float to how it arrived.

Worked perfectly.  (not that checking fuel in a Moke manually  was ever a problem )= this was a equipment fix.

https://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Fuel/Tanks,%20fittings/AAU8340MS.aspx?1304&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/fuel%20sending.aspx|Back%20to%20search





Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on October 28, 2018, 07:35:47 AM
Ok Mokies......Clancy is having no luck finding a front panel for his Moke, M-Machine says "someday"....anyone have another source? He's anxious to get going (it's only been 10 or 20 years.....)   ;D 
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Willie_B on October 28, 2018, 01:12:36 PM
http://www.mokepanels.com/
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on October 28, 2018, 01:26:30 PM
Thanks, I sent that along to Clancy, we'll see if they have it in stock.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on October 28, 2018, 02:40:45 PM
Reply to your PM sent with a few other possible sources.

Edit: Here is the response for others to have the references:

Seven Ent lists it on their website - best to call to be sure they have it in stock:

https://www.7ent.com/products/front-panel-uk-moke-ala7001.html

Other places to try:

M-Parts (where Brad and I got our shells - definitely call first as they can be slow to respond to emails):
http://www.m-parts.co.uk/

The Aussie site I got the removable grill from:
http://minisport.com.au/moke-gear

The front panels listed are the fixed grill kind at Seven and the Aussie site.  M-Parts lists both styles of front panel, but call first to ensure what they actually have in stock or when they will have it.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on October 28, 2018, 07:26:17 PM
He's waiting for a quote from Mokeparts, but I'm thinking he may just fix the one on the car. 7Ent wants $840 plus shipping, the body man quoted half that to fix the one he has.......
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: jeff10049 on October 28, 2018, 08:22:52 PM
Neat Project 4.gif

Re the previous discussion about the decision to powder coat, you would never really need to remove it some people powder coat cars before starting body work and do all the filler and paint on top of the powder coat. The electrostatic application of powder makes it great for getting into tight areas for rust protection.

Thermobond, Lab Metal, and Devcon aluminum can be used as filler under powder.
Devcon can sometimes hose you test it first make sure it does not lift needs cured at 150 or so before final sanding.

I recommend baking it at coating temp before coating to find spots that don't work or edges of filler that lift. And there will for sure be some bad areas better to fix before it's a big problem. After fixing bake it again and fix whatever fixes didn't work it will take a few tries to keep everything down. A clear powder on top of your color is also not a bad idea.

Looking forward to the progress.
Jeff


Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on October 29, 2018, 07:19:49 AM
After 7Ent quoted him $840 ( a $394 discounted price? How DO these guys stay in business?) plus shipping for just the panel no grill, the $500 delivered quote from MokePanels for the panel and the grill looks pretty good - I think he's going with that.

My understanding is he has a guy who will metal finish the car, weld up al the holes and replace the rusty bits, then it's going to the powdercoaters. since it's a race pit car and neighborhood car, a perfect body isn't in the cards.

But as always with Clancy, it's an evolving process.....  ;D
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: gr8kornholio on October 29, 2018, 09:48:53 AM
Simple.  Because the "informed" are by and far a severe minority.  We don't get it cause we are the type that take the time to do research. 

Even I got it a little when I bought my car.  I thought I had a good handle on things and was glad to be buying a car with way more in it than I was paying for it.  After finding this forum and more research on my own I found I was still under informed.  Just glad I took my time before throwing away money.  But I actually found minispares on accident. 

Actually kind of feel bad for the PO cause they could have saved a fortune with a little time spent.   
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: 94touring on October 29, 2018, 09:55:23 AM
It peeves me off when I see people getting ripped. The sommerford guys telling Vikram his car is worth 250 bucks and he should spent 30k on a restore is the type of thing I'd put my foot up someone's ass if they pulled that on me.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: drmini on November 01, 2018, 10:33:25 AM
Quote from: MiniDave on October 28, 2018, 07:26:17 PM
He's waiting for a quote from Mokeparts, but I'm thinking he may just fix the one on the car. 7Ent wants $840 plus shipping, the body man quoted half that to fix the one he has.......
I don't understand why his bodyman would want $420 to fix that one?  Doesn't look that bad to me.  At least the grille portion is intact and not bent except for a tiny dent on the bottom corner, but it's not into the slat area.  Weld up a couple of holes and looks very useable to me.  Am I missing something?  Also, how much will the bodyman charge to remove the old one and weld in the new one?  Labor is labor, and that is on top of the new part price.  Anyway, something to consider.  Also, if you/he decides to go with the new panel, I'd gladly take any of the old scrap panels you remove.  I have more time to fix stuff than funds to buy new.  Keep me in mind.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on November 01, 2018, 11:05:33 AM
Will do.....not my choice of course, and it could be that he wants the removeable grill deal. I'll see him Sat for breakfast and mention these things.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on November 24, 2018, 06:55:35 PM
Clancy decided to just have the grill repaired, so he's working on that.....he had the entire body heated in the 700* oven to burn off the paint, then he had the entire thing soda blasted....quite a bit more rust appeared after that but he has a friend with a welder, so they are dealing with that, once it's done he'll have the entire body powder coated the same color as the parts I'm working on.

He dropped off the rest of the rear subframe components that he had powder coated, including the radius arms.....I didn't know he was going to do them or I would have pressed out the bushings ad bearings, Since we didn't I get to replace them. I'm pretty sure the plastic sleeve inside is......well, melted into a blob.

I also noticed that they coated where the seal lip rides on the stub axle, we can't decide whether to just leave it, as with a little grease it should slide on the coating pretty well, or grind the stuff off. I've noticed it's really on there and tough as nails, I may leave it.....

I'm going thru all the parts and taking a tap to all the threads just in case, once I have it all laid out I'll start assembling again. Once done he's promised to come get it so I don't have to store it for the several months till he's ready to put it in the car - and of course the Inno has to be done and gone before I can put the Moke on the rack.

I'm really impressed with the coating, it's very smooth and very tough - and it looks great. Subby and other parts don't match, but it won't show so he doesn't care.....

Some before and after shots......
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on November 24, 2018, 08:31:05 PM
Good luck getting the knuckle joints out of all the trumpets where they left them in and powder coated them.

His front control rods are also bent.  I have a pair of stock ones from my Moke project.  I can see if they are straight.

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on November 24, 2018, 09:49:16 PM
I have some straight ones, I was thinking of just leaving the knuckle joints in as they are.....this Moke will only be driven at low speeds, around a race paddock mostly.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: jeff10049 on November 24, 2018, 09:52:25 PM
almost looks like the plastic is still down in the knuckle hole? I'd of thought it would melt?

I would scrape the powder off the seal surface it won't last as long as you think I've been there done that. Is that sealing surface a separate piece that slides on the shaft or am I thinking of the front cv's? I have some of those pieces if needed.

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on November 24, 2018, 10:10:57 PM
Yes, I expect I have quite a bit of work to do on these before I can assemble them.....
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on November 25, 2018, 11:27:46 AM
Let's also hope you get lucky and the swing arms have the early style metal sleeves instead of the plastic ones.

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on November 25, 2018, 11:32:42 AM
Quote from: jeff10049 on November 24, 2018, 09:52:25 PM
almost looks like the plastic is still down in the knuckle hole? I'd of thought it would melt?

I would scrape the powder off the seal surface it won't last as long as you think I've been there done that. Is that sealing surface a separate piece that slides on the shaft or am I thinking of the front cv's? I have some of those pieces if needed.

Yes, I'm surprised those cups didn't melt too, but I think they're made of nylon and pretty tuff stuff to take all the pressure from the suspension. I'm thinking I'll have to take a chisel to them and split them to get them out of the holes at this point.

The seal surface is part of the stub axle in the back. I'm surprised at how thick this stuff is...it's measurable!

I don't know what it will take to get it off, I'm going to buy a new wire wheel for my 8" grinder, I think I'll get a stiff one rather than a fine. Or I may be able to use one of those 3M paint removing wheels.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on November 25, 2018, 12:55:58 PM
The new wire brush on the 8" grinder took the powder coat right off the ends of the knuckles, so that will be OK

I also checked the sockets for the cups and it looks like I already took the cups out before it went to the coaters, so I'm good there as long as the new cups will fit in the sockets, otherwise I'm in for some work to get those cleaned out. I don't think I have any wire wheels that small so I'll have to give that some thought.....
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on November 25, 2018, 01:22:35 PM
Are the "moisture" holes in the bottom of the knuckle joint cups still open or did they get clogged with powder coating?

If they are clogged, you will need to open them just to get the nylon up in as they also let the air out as you push in the nylon knuckle cup.

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on November 25, 2018, 01:38:19 PM
Right, I'll run an 1/8" drill bit thru them....
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: gr8kornholio on November 25, 2018, 03:32:54 PM
Yea those are fun to clean out.  Of course I painted mine with the POR15 since I'm running coilovers.  Did make sure the drain holes were still present.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on November 25, 2018, 04:38:59 PM
Just checked, these are still open....but the cups don't fit in the sockets, so I'm going to have to find a way to clean the powdercoat out of the holes. Just ordered a bunch of small parts that I'm missing for Clancy's build.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: 94touring on November 25, 2018, 08:24:08 PM
Dremel and some grinding bits will clean the cups right up.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on November 25, 2018, 08:57:28 PM
I'll have to borrow Don's again....that's what I used to get the gas caps off too.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Jimini II on November 26, 2018, 01:56:39 PM
A small flapper wheel in a drill will work as well.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on November 26, 2018, 04:32:26 PM
Looking over these radius arms I found several issues....when they sandblasted them they didn't cap off the bearings, so sand got in them and ruined the roller bearing, the bushing seems OK, So I made a tool that let me drive out the roller bearing - destroying it of course - then I cleaned up inside and inserted the shaft, using it to guide the new bearing into place. The shaft turns smoothly now.

I also cleaned the coating off the seal surface, and the bearing surfaces in the hubs too. I still have to devise something to clean out the sockets for the knuckle plastic cups. My battery powered Dremel just didn't cut it, so I sent the wife out to buy me some emery cloth - I have a shaft for my die grinder that I can use to make a flappy wheel thingy, if that doesn't get it I'll borrow Don's plug in Dremel and that will get it I think.

I'm waiting for a few bits and bobs before I can put it all together.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on November 26, 2018, 05:30:54 PM
Sounds a LOT like Clancy got carried away with rushing things off to the powder coater without thinking ahead.

Did you check about the grease sleeve in the radius arms before installing the new bearings and shafts?

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Lone Star Mini on November 26, 2018, 06:05:43 PM
Another fun project!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on November 26, 2018, 07:41:34 PM
Quote from: MPlayle on November 26, 2018, 05:30:54 PM
Sounds a LOT like Clancy got carried away with rushing things off to the powder coater without thinking ahead.

Did you check about the grease sleeve in the radius arms before installing the new bearings and shafts?

Yes....to both!  77.gif
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on November 26, 2018, 08:07:38 PM
Got the cup in at last......

Really ruined these bearings with the sand blasting....should have pulled those out before I gave him the parts - I didn't know he was going to powder coat them or I would have.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on November 29, 2018, 09:37:40 AM
I'm kinda stopped on the rear subframe for Clancy's Moke - I ordered a bunch of small bits and bobs way last Sunday and expected them by today or even yesterday, but it turns out due to MiniSpare's Black Cyber Sunday sale that they haven't even shipped yet. Plus too and also I sent the outer radius arm brackets and trunnions off to the powder coaters and they claim they won't be dome for two weeks......so in the meantime I'll get the bearings installed and packed in the hubs, brakes installed on the backing plates (left side backing plate will be here Friday) and at least be ready to assemble everything once the stuff from MS does finally show up, sometime next week.

I also had to place another order with Bolt Depot as apparently I wasn't paying attention on the last one and ordered 5/16 -18 stuff instead of 5/16-24. That order will be here today or tomorrow - those guys are on the ball!

Oh, and one last "fun" job, while cleaning the powder coat and sand blast residue out of the threaded holes, I broke a tap off in one of the nuts. Oh boy is that gonna be fun. I did find an interesting method online that I've never tried - you use a very small orifice on your acetylene torch, heat the center of the tap to bright red, then turn off the acetylene and leave the oxygen on - the tap will simply burn up leaving the threads undamaged - apparently they do this when they break one off in aluminum or castings.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on November 30, 2018, 02:08:15 PM
I had a heck of a time getting the old knuckle balls out of the trumpets, they were in there tight! It took a combination of 3 lb hammer and a press to get them out....I was afraid I was going to break the aluminium trumpets if I used too much force.

I got one set of brakes done, the other backing plate will be here tonight and I can do them too, but I can't install the radius arms till I get the trunnions back from the coater as they go in first.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: gr8kornholio on November 30, 2018, 04:17:48 PM
Is the subframe a different color?
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on November 30, 2018, 04:43:15 PM
Yes, the coaters got it wrong, but he says he's OK with it as it's under the car and really won't show....
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on December 01, 2018, 01:16:14 PM
Whew! Finally managed to get one radius arm installed - they are a total PITA with standard trumpets - easy-peasy with hi-los.

I had to install the cone and trumpet, hold that in place while I maneuvered the arm in place and engaged the knuckle into the socket on the arm, then wiggle it around till I could get the pin thru the inner hole, then get a nut and washer on it to hold it in place while I bolted the bracket onto the outside of the arm. I needed 2 more hands! Sounds simple enough when I write it but that took 2 days to figure out and make happen!

Yes, I know I don't have the trunnion on but I checked and I can get a box end wrench on the nut, and I have a pin wrench to turn the bolt. Worst case I can release the outer bracket and that will give me enough room to get a ratcheting wrench on the nut.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on December 01, 2018, 03:13:32 PM
One side mostly done, the other side is in but I need to get some more parts from Clancy before I can go on.....
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniGene on December 02, 2018, 06:57:40 PM
Looking good!  That color makes me think of the color of aircraft landing gear. 

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on December 02, 2018, 08:00:57 PM
Moke landing gear!  ;D

I picked up the rest of the parts from Clancy, now if only my MiniSpares order would ship!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: gr8kornholio on December 03, 2018, 07:02:44 AM
I had that happen once.  Usually it's order on Sunday, arrives on Tuesday.  But one time, didn't know they were having a sale or what went on, but it took almost 2 weeks.  Hasn't happened since.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on December 03, 2018, 08:23:02 AM
DHL messaged me this morning that my stuff will be here Wed. The problem is MiniSpares has spoiled us with such fantastic service that when it doesn't happen once - due to a holiday or whatever - we (I) get unhappy.  ::) 62.gif

Of course, I already have another order in the cart.......
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: 94touring on December 03, 2018, 08:46:43 AM
My shipment was dropped off today. I think I ordered the 23rd.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on December 03, 2018, 08:56:01 AM
Same timing then, I ordered on the 25th....but, I expect quick service for as much as I pay to have this stuff shipped.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: gr8kornholio on December 03, 2018, 09:28:36 AM
If I remember right, it shipped quick, it was getting the order to ship that took forever.  Like I said, maybe I missed a big sale, or they went to some huge event, or maybe it was inventory.  Like you guys though it hasn't stopped me from ordering.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on December 16, 2018, 05:25:43 PM
Where would I get some Moke front turn signal assemblies?
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Willie_B on December 16, 2018, 05:35:22 PM
Quote from: MiniDave on December 16, 2018, 05:25:43 PM
Where would I get some Moke front turn signal assemblies?

Got mine here.

http://www.mokepanels.com/moke-parts/

But they are closed for the next 2 weeks.

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: BruceK on December 16, 2018, 05:53:45 PM
The Moke front turn signals are also used on later MGAs, MG 1100s, and later Morris Minor models too.  So that means there should be lots of sources for them.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on December 16, 2018, 05:57:43 PM
I've found some at 7Ent, clear like Michael Playle's $45each.

WillieB, your's are the two tones ones?
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: BruceK on December 16, 2018, 06:03:21 PM
You can probably get some locally at Vicky British.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on December 16, 2018, 06:17:59 PM
Yes they do! Good call....cheaper too - $36 ea.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on December 16, 2018, 07:16:30 PM
Some UK built Mokes had the all clear variety like mine and others had the two color (clear for the running light, amber for the turn signal).  I do not know what made the distinction as to which a particular Moke got.

Since Clancy is not going for authenticity, which ever you get at the preferred price should be fine.  Just make sure they can make a sufficient ground  when he powder coats the body as they ground through their mounting screws into the body.

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Willie_B on December 16, 2018, 07:42:22 PM
The ones I bought had the two tone lens. Afterwards I got a set of the clear lens in case I decide to go that way.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Scargo on December 16, 2018, 08:15:22 PM
I sourced my MGA all clear lense units for the Moke from Moss.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: drmini on December 19, 2018, 10:16:26 AM
The UK home market cars had the orange tops and clear bottom.  They had to have orange turn signals and white sidelights (parking lights) whereas, the US market cars had clear tops and bottoms because we didn't have the same requirements.  Likewise, on the rear, the UK home market cars had orange bee-hive turn signals and red bee-hive tail/brake lights.  FWIW, the units on the front are the same (orange and clear) and have inserts to change the color.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on December 19, 2018, 10:29:12 AM
Victoria British has a 30% off deal this weekend if anyone needs anything - 30% off takes the front T/S assemblies down to $25 each!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on December 19, 2018, 12:33:35 PM
Disc brake kits came in to MIniSpares again, so I have one on the way for the Moke along with a bunch of other pieces parts.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on December 21, 2018, 12:16:06 PM
I've had an interesting time finishing up the suspension on the rear subframe for the Moke..specifically fitting the outer radius arm brackets. When I get everything buttoned up, the bracket misses the holes by quite a bit. So, I took it all apart and used just the inner shaft and washers - it was just too long to make it all fit, so I found a couple of the old nuts and tightened them on the end of the old shaft, then got out the 3 pounder.

15 min later, things are pretty close, but rather than hit it anymore I decided to ream the holes a tiny bit for the extra clearance, Clarance. Now all I have to do it put it all back together, it takes three of four arms to do that, so I may have to get some help from my lovely assistant.

I also found I had the wrong  emergency brake cable brackets - the ones that go between the shoes - but fortunately I had a new set in stock, so the brakes are now done too.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: gr8kornholio on December 21, 2018, 02:23:11 PM
I ran into that too.  Luckily I had 2 sets since the tool I bought came with a set.  2 of the 4 were the same length and fit my arms.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on December 21, 2018, 03:03:33 PM
Allrightythen.....it's all back together except for the emergency brake cables, he took the brackets off to the powdercoater's today, so I won't see those for a couple of weeks.

He'll be back Thursday to pick up the rear subby and I'll start on the front one....at some point he'll bring the engine down and we'll drop it into the subframe too. The body is at the welders and there was considerably more rust and bondo in it than expected so they're having to do a lot more welding and repairing - but then it's a Mini isn't it?
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: pbraun on December 24, 2018, 07:44:30 AM
Looking real good!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on December 24, 2018, 08:12:10 AM
High praise, coming from you pbraun! Thanks.

Still a lot to do ...I don't know if he's wanting it done before the first race sometime in April or if we're on a timeline at all, but I want to get back on the Inno full blast.....
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on December 28, 2018, 09:45:07 AM
Just heard from DHL at last that the parts they charged my card on a week ago will finally be here on Monday. I guess the holidays really slowed them down too......anyway I should have everything to put the front suspension together on the Moke. Clancy said the shell was in worse shape than expected so it's going to need to spend more time at the welder's but that it's coming along. Since he's decided to powdercoat it instead of paint, the metal work has to be pretty much perfect or it will show, but I don't think he's that concerned as it will be a "pit car" for the race tracks.

BTW, does anyone have or know where to get the brackets that hold the round tube bumpers on? He has plenty of tubing he can make them from but all the suppliers seem to want to sell is the complete bumper.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: jedduh01 on December 28, 2018, 11:05:26 PM
RE: Bumpers

I have never seen individual parts sold for building bumpers... But They're simple

For the rear, a piece if 1.5 angle iron would be made up and bent on one end to form the bracket. with 2 holes and welded to the bar= easy.

For the front- more of a triangle type sheet metal bracket would be made... Not Horrible but if metal is available they would be less than a few hours work to make up and be close enough.

My moke is away in winter storage now., but plan on seeing it soon i hope. I can get some better shots and measurements pretty soon if needed  Let me know.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on December 29, 2018, 07:41:19 AM
Thanks, as a last resort I thought I would contact Moke parts and see if they would sell the brackets separately (to save on shipping two long pieces of pipe across the pond) If they won't then we'll make them. I agree they look simple enough in the drawings and if it were just me I'd just make them, but the body stuff is up to Clancy......I've got enough to do just building the rest of the car!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on December 29, 2018, 08:15:43 AM
Got started on the front subframe, only to come to a screeching halt when I realized the upper control arms had not been to the powdercoaters.....I also found a little bit of wear in one, where the ball had worn thru the nylon cup allowing the ball to rub on the metal arm...given the use of this car I think a tiny bit of JB under the cup for support and t will be fine.

The brackets between the control arms are just there to give back to Clancy, he left them here the other day.

Oh, and yes, I know the upper subframe mounting bolts are wrong, Clancy supplied them when he brought the subby back - I've already ordered a set.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on December 29, 2018, 12:06:16 PM
Just be sure to redrill the "drain" hole in the cup of the upper control arm you plan on putting the JB-Weld into.

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on December 29, 2018, 12:25:27 PM
Right, although I doubt this car will ever see rain again in it's lifetime.....

BTW, Harbor Freight has 25% off on the 31st and 1st.....
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Jimini II on December 31, 2018, 11:55:20 AM
Regarding the bumper brackets Dave try D J Mini's in Wesley Chapel Fl, i believe he has made up some bumpers for Mokes before.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on December 31, 2018, 02:12:31 PM
Thanks, will do.....
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on January 01, 2019, 02:54:10 PM
Got the two sets of disc brakes built today, MiniSpares just sells a "kit" of all the parts, it's up to you to put them all together!

I started off packing up a set of bearings with grease and driving the inner race into the hubs, then in go the roller bearings and seals and stub axle. Turn it over and install the disc and flange, split washer and castle nut. Then bolt on the caliper, install the pads and retaining pins. The kit did come with nice, proper English made bearings! 

The only time consuming bit is shimming the ball joints properly, you put in some shims, tighten the nut and depending on whether it's tight or loose you add or subtract shims till you get it just right. I always set new ones up pretty stiff as I know there will be some wearing in, especially in the first 1000 miles. On this Moke that could be a few years since it's going to be mostly a pit car at the track.

For now I'm stuck again waiting for bits to come back from the powdercoaters, and I forgot to send the steering arms out to be cleaned and coated but as the bodywork is still in process, it will be a while before they become critical. In the meantime I'll do some more work on the Inno, I need to install and ream the radius arm bearings and install the front upper control arm bearings.

It's just too cold to paint right now, but it's supposed to hit 50* again this weekend.....that's borderline but I may be able to get some bits painted, like the axle shafts and other odds and bobs while I wait for parts from the master blasters.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: 94touring on January 01, 2019, 03:51:45 PM
Make sure you hand lap those ball joints.  Shimming is the worst part of that job!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: jedduh01 on January 02, 2019, 07:39:50 AM
For some UK Moke Bumper bracket pics .

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on January 02, 2019, 08:30:17 AM
Super, thanks Jedduh! I'll pass those along to Clancy.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Willie_B on January 02, 2019, 10:09:42 AM
Jedduh, is your front bumper bent? Or is that the more areo style.

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on January 02, 2019, 11:22:05 AM
Ha! I didn't even notice that!   ;D
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on January 02, 2019, 05:40:53 PM
While waiting for the rest of the parts to come back from the powdercoaters I installed the rear brake pressure regulator. The new one is adjustable compared to the old one, so it would not fit in the place the old one went so I had to make a bracket. I had a scrap of stainless so I used that. A few holes, some grinding, drilling and cleaning up with some more grinding and wire brushing and it was ready to go.

I also bent up the front pipe that goes across the front of the subframe and clipped it on in anticipation that the parts will be back soon so I can install the front hub and disc assemblies.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Willie_B on January 02, 2019, 06:16:52 PM
Nice install. I may do the same for mine.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on January 02, 2019, 08:19:27 PM
Thanks, the only things I'm not sure of with this design is that there's enough room for the emergency brake cables to clear and whether there's enough room between the top of the valve and the body of the car for the pipe from the front to fit into the top of the valve. I won't know that for sure till I fit the subframe into the car.

If there isn't I'll have to try something else....it's possible I could just rotate it some on the bracket as it sits to get enough clearance at the top..

I thought about just using a straight bracket to space it out far enough that the end with the adjuster could fit into the hole, but then you couldn't adjust it, so I scrapped that idea.... the only advantage to doing it that way is keeping it in the original orientation.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Willie_B on January 02, 2019, 08:43:53 PM
Just checked on mine. From the top of the subframe to the rear floor is 2 3/4". The parking brake cable is 1" above the bottom of the subframe at the mounting point.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on January 02, 2019, 08:56:44 PM
Here is an alternate view of mine.  I did have to adjust the contrast and brightness to reveal the part clearer and so also circled it.

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on January 02, 2019, 10:30:22 PM
Looks like mine will work then....thanks guys!

I wonder if I bought the wrong valve...even tho this is the valve called for in the listing, the one for the later MKIII cars has a slightly shorter and lighter spring and is not adjustable - 21A1774 is what I bought, the other one is 21A2031. Sounds more like what I needed.....
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: jedduh01 on January 03, 2019, 07:29:58 AM
Quote from: Willie_B on January 02, 2019, 10:09:42 AM
Jedduh, is your front bumper bent? Or is that the more areo style.

Its called 'patina of use' but yes= its bent... been yanked on..   Funny becasue it 'matches' nearly same to my other moke bumper..    Two cars = same 'bent' bumper.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: jedduh01 on January 03, 2019, 07:52:07 AM
Quote from: MiniDave on January 02, 2019, 10:30:22 PM
Looks like mine will work then....thanks guys!

I wonder if I bought the wrong valve...even tho this is the valve called for in the listing, the one for the later MKIII cars has a slightly shorter and lighter spring and is not adjustable - 21A1774 is what I bought, the other one is 21A2031. Sounds more like what I needed.....

Check closely too = the way you have mounted (vertical) will be a REALLY tight bend on the metal line to enter the Valve...

IMHO: Brake valve:

Check over your original one.. Ive seen some REALLY nasty ones clean up pretty easily. (blast the exterior or use electrolysis)  they are simple and should be restoreable. really they are just a ball and spring!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on January 03, 2019, 08:39:11 AM
And a couple of seals, right?

The old one has been sitting dry for 20 years or so, I'd bet the seals are perished. I'll have a look at it once it's in the car, but I think I'll leave the new one in it - it was fairly expensive (about $85) so Ima find a way to use it.

Willie B can you take a shot of where the hand brake cable goes thru the subframe, from the inside looking out would be easiest...thanks!

Mplayle, in your pic it looks like the body of the Moke does not meet the rear part of the subby except where it bolts on?

Edit: never mind, I see how it works now, the frame dips down in the middle, I have mine upside down to work on it.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniGene on January 03, 2019, 09:23:16 AM
What's the procedure for adjusting a rear bias valve?  In my head I'm thinking it would be:

1.  Find an empty parking lot with lots of room or a abandoned road.
2.  In a straight line, accelerate up to speed.
3.  Firmly apply the brakes.
4.  Adjust rear bias valve and repeat steps 1-3 until the rear wheels stop locking up on firm braking.

I don't know if this is the right way to do it, but I think it probably would be fun!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on January 03, 2019, 10:00:03 AM
On my Moke, the hand brake was two cables: one running from the handle to each rear brake.  Perhaps the attached two pictures may help see the routing.

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on January 03, 2019, 10:05:19 AM
Quote from: MiniGene on January 03, 2019, 09:23:16 AM
What's the procedure for adjusting a rear bias valve?  In my head I'm thinking it would be:

1.  Find an empty parking lot with lots of room or a abandoned road.
2.  In a straight line, accelerate up to speed.
3.  Firmly apply the brakes.
4.  Adjust rear bias valve and repeat steps 1-3 until the rear wheels stop locking up on firm braking.

I don't know if this is the right way to do it, but I think it probably would be fun!


That's exactly how I would do it!  ;D 77.gif
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on January 03, 2019, 10:21:08 AM
Quote from: MPlayle on January 03, 2019, 10:00:03 AM
On my Moke, the hand brake was two cables: one running from the handle to each rear brake.  Perhaps the attached two pictures may help see the routing.

What I really need to see is where the cable passes thru the frame to the quadrant....
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: jedduh01 on January 03, 2019, 11:19:15 AM
Handbrake cables pass thru the same holes on all sub frames.   The hole below where the Trunion bolt comes thru.
   Will be the same as your late car as far as routing goes too.

Picture of different car = same vintage 66/67 sub frames and routing.  below

Brake line for moke comes from the rear fender and comes thru the crack between the sub-frame and body = bends into the valve.  I have see spirals installed to take up longer length of line.

Dont forget Mark Caldwells moke on Bring a trailer = 95+ Pictures of great detail and accuracy.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on January 03, 2019, 11:29:58 AM
Yeah, I probably need to turn the subframe over so the radius arm will droop properly, but I can't seem to get those cable ends thru that hole, I'll look at it some more.....
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Willie_B on January 03, 2019, 02:56:26 PM
Very front part of opening is where cable goes thru. I can see where it is a tight fit around end of arm. From the outside you see how it just slightly rubs.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on January 03, 2019, 03:23:37 PM
Thanks for the pics, I figure when the weight of the car is on the suspension there is plenty of clearance, Clarance.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on January 03, 2019, 06:51:12 PM
The cables are fed from rear to front.  Feed the end that would go to the brake handle through the subframe from the outside with the spring end loose to start.  It will take a little bit of fidgeting to get it through the side flange of the subframe, but it will get through.  Then slip the cable into the quadrant and the channel at the center of the subframe.  Connect up the spring end and pull out the slack before any crimping at the quadrant or subframe center channels.

That is the procedure I used as my subframe came with the late model Saloon style cable arrangement and I had to retro-fit my old Moke cables.

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on January 03, 2019, 08:52:10 PM
Some more work completed, axles stripped, cleaned and painted, ready to put on the car when the rest of the pieces come back from the blasters. Since that will take another week or more it will give them time to cure out thoroughly...this is just good ol Rusty O'Leum paint, brushed on too. I think they came out pretty good actually. I had to use a screwdriver to dig out the old hardened grease from the splines......

I think that's the last bits I need to clean up before putting it all back together. I have new u-joints, front shocks and some other bits on the way too.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on January 08, 2019, 05:29:48 PM
A little more done.....both axles assembled - I checked to make sure I could pass the inner flange thru the opening in the subframe - it will go if you hold your mouth right and angle it up then down.

Found out today the rest of the parts won't be back from the powdercoaters for another week, plus my order at MiniSpares is being held up too waiting for one of the things I ordered to come in - on the 14th - so no joy there either.

So, more cleanup work in the meantime, I guess.

Clancy brought me down a Sprite gearbox to overhaul, it came out of a race car so it has straight cut close ratio gears, but it's been sitting a long time and looks a little rusty - won't know till I clean it up whether that's going to be a problem or not. I guess as a backup to get him thru a race or even a weekend it might be OK. He's going to use his old box for the 1st race of the year at Gingerman 1st weekend of April.....the one that pops out of both 2nd and 3rd!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on January 10, 2019, 04:28:02 PM
The last bits came in early from the powder coaters today, Clancy picked them up for me and I've already gotten the right side done. Good thing too as we have a hell of a winter storm bearing down on us....snow predictions just keep going up. First it was a light dusting, then 1-3", now they're calling for heavy snow Friday and maybe into Sat.

I'll try and get the other side done tonight, then tomorrow I can finish up the emergency brake cables on the rear subby. Sat Clancy will be in town for a couple of meetings and the plan is to load both into his truck and he'll take them up to his shop. When the shell comes back from the powdercoaters in the next month I'll go up to his place and install the engine in the front one, then both subframes in the car, that way we'll have a rolling shell. In the meantime he can install fuel lines and wiring and such. That also clears room up in my shop to get going on the Innocenti, since I now have all the parts here for it too.

I think from now on if I do a suspension job for someone I'm going to insist on Hilos, these things are a major PITA to do with stock trumpets!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on January 11, 2019, 12:18:14 PM
Both sides done last night, ready to go to Clancy's shop - BUT - we're under a "winter advisory", they don't know if we'll get 3 or 30" of snow tonight. It's not looking too good for Clancy to drive the 45 miles from his shop to mine to pick up these parts tomorrow....we'll see. Too bad the powder coaters didn't get the subs and the parts the same color, I like the lighter color on the suspension bits but I agree with Dan that for maximum value they need to be black..... one thing about powder coating, you have to watch where it goes as it's a lot thicker than paint. For example, the holes where the pins for the lower control arms go into the sub had to be carefully scraped out and that surface of the pin also had to be cleaned off as they would not fit into the holes. Likewise the holes for the upper control arm washers had to be completely cleaned out back to bare metal to get those to fit too. Also, when they blast the parts prior to coating it leaves a residue behind that must be cleaned out before trying to fit bearings and such....you can't just rinse it off, you have to use something like a wire wheel to get it all off, then clean in the solvent tank for best results. It also leaves an edge around holes in parts that has to be flatted off if something is going to fit snugly against it. Finally, every threaded hole has to have a tap run thru it both to clean out any coating that might have found it's way in but also to clean out blast debris left in the threads. However, I think the smooth, durable finish is worth the extra work.....

I still have to finish up the em. brakes on the rear subby. I'll do that today then gather all the remains from the strip down and he can haul them off with the subs...whenever that happens. Then I'll give the shop a good clean up and start back on the Inno at last.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Willie_B on January 11, 2019, 01:11:54 PM
I just read that you may need to remove the long rod part of the hi-lo so the arm can droop the most.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on January 11, 2019, 01:34:47 PM
I'm not sure what you mean there, this car doesn't have hilos.....
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: gr8kornholio on January 11, 2019, 01:49:45 PM
Either my powder coater was more careful, or I got skimped on the coating.  I did just paint all the bits, but the subframes had no excess and all the holes fit just fine and the threaded areas were all protected.  I tapped them, but is seemed pointless cause the tap rotated by hand super easily. 

Looking really good.  Like the way you have it placed for assembly.  I had mine on 4 jackstands in it's normal orientation but it was hard to keep it level and not wobble around.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on January 11, 2019, 01:53:05 PM
I tried it that way first, but it didn't work for me either, so I tipped it up - which was fine till I got the right side assembly on, then I had to support it with the second set of stands or it wanted to roll over. I think the best way is to have a nice wood topped table like Dan has, it gets it to a good working height and the wood doesn't scuff the paint/powdercoating

I'll see how I get on with the black one for the Inno, but it does seem like the shiny coating is much thicker than the flat that I have on the Inno suspension bits.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on February 20, 2019, 08:24:55 AM
Clancy's Moke is making progress, it's at another shop across town getting holes patched and welded up. The front end looks great, he was able to straighten it beautifully. but the floor boards and such were swiss cheese. He's welded patches in some places but he's not going to make it like new, Clancy just doesn't have the budget for that right now, and this is going to be used strictly as a low speed pit car.


Later this month it will go to the powder coaters and get color....he's going to shoot the floors with bedliner (I don't know if that happens first or last -  don't know if bedliner will stand being in a 400* oven) and once it's home from the coaters, I'll install the two subframes - the engine's already in the front one - and start wiring it up. He's already got his wheels and tires sorted too. Once it's on it's wheels it will come back to my shop for final fettling, and we hope to have it ready for the first race in April at Grattan.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on March 21, 2019, 10:24:24 AM
Clancy is on the road for the SCCA till Mid April, in the meantime the Moke has been thru the powdercoaters (I haven't seen it yet) and is waiting for him.

I tried to order a wiring harness from Bull Motif, I also ordered the headlight harnesses but then found out from Michael Playle that they came with the harness, so I tried to cancel just those two parts (should have left them in the order, I could have used them on the Inno!) but they said they couldn't do that so I decided to just get them and the harness. I also had frustrations with their payment system, not taking any of my credit cards - but I managed to go ahead and paid via Paypal, only to find out they had cancelled my entire order....of course I didn't find this out till a week later when I sent them an email asking the status of my order.

So today I tried to reorder the harness, only to find out they were out of them. sighs

So, I found a place here in the US - British Wiring  http://www.britishwiring.com/default.asp (http://www.britishwiring.com/default.asp) who claim they have the same harness in stock - same part number and everything but of course.....mo money, mo money, mo money! I sent the new cost off to Clancy and he said go for it so hopefully I now have one on the way for sure! I should have a confirming email shortly.

Don't know what's up with Bull Motif, but their ordering system is a few generations behind state of the art.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: 94touring on March 21, 2019, 10:30:58 AM
I've ordered from bulmotif a few times. They used a 3rd party payment system as I recall.  Otherwise I never had an issue.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on March 21, 2019, 11:58:32 AM
Just got an email from British Wiring - harness is already shipped!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: BruceK on March 21, 2019, 02:05:51 PM
Quote from: MiniDave on March 21, 2019, 11:58:32 AM
Just got an email from British Wiring - harness is already shipped!

And I wonder whether your next order will be from Bullmotif or British Wiring?   Not really.  I guess some businesses just don't care too much about ensuring they meet their customer's needs (for payment, communication, and inventory)
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on March 21, 2019, 02:07:18 PM
It was a lot more money, about 25% - $300 vs $400 - but like you say, the service is worth it.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on March 25, 2019, 11:51:26 AM
Moke harness showed up today and looks like OEM factory made....should work perfectly. $415 shipped vs $315 from England.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 14, 2019, 07:31:13 AM
Well, after a pretty long hiatus, we're back to work on Clancy's Moke....he's gotten it home from the powdercoaters and he likes the result. Next up he'll get the wiring harness laid in then I'll head up to his shop to install the front and rear subframes, do some finish wiring and see if I can get it to start. Of course, that will have to wait till after I get back from Snowmass....

He wants new tail light assemblies - but he doesn't want the "beehive" style, rather he would like the "flat" ones....all I've seen online are beehives, anyone know where to get the ones he wants?

He's also looking for a "Bimini" style top, he doesn't need side curtains or a rear window, just shade. Any tips on where to get one or get one made?
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on June 14, 2019, 08:11:49 AM
The early Mokes had just the round beehive style.  The later Mokes had the square housings with flat lenses.

To have the small round taillights in a flat lense, you may have to be creative in adapting aftermarket trailer/accessory lights.  Most auto parts stores have a selection in a section near the towing accessories.  Most likely you would have to do an in-person search to find options that could be adapted.

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Willie_B on June 14, 2019, 08:56:43 AM
Several different ones from Australia.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Moke-rear-square-late-tail-light-assembly-/202338784277?nma=true&si=XZDtMhvAvRp8VtyHxDWNLBDe78U%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557


https://www.minimania.com/part/AYK9712/Tail-Light-Assembly-Australian-Moke

Just showing those as an example. Have to shop them online to find the beast deal

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on June 14, 2019, 10:28:33 AM
As for the top, he will most likely have to have one custom made.  Almost any auto upholstery shop should be able to make one.

A lot depends on what top support he has.  Is he going to be using the original factory top bows?

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 14, 2019, 11:30:25 AM
Yes, I'm ordering him some in the next few days.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on June 14, 2019, 01:22:02 PM
Check with wherever you are ordering the top bows from to see if they also offer a basic top.  I seem to recall M-Parts offering tops, although theirs had a rear window and no sides.

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: BruceK on June 14, 2019, 03:18:43 PM
Please don't rig up some awful all-red generic trailer light or Jeep light - the Moke at least deserves a proper red & amber combination lamp assembly.


Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on June 14, 2019, 05:52:41 PM
Honestly, I tend to agree with Bruce.  I would recommend telling him to "suck it up" and go with the proper beehive lens taillights.

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 14, 2019, 06:20:20 PM
So, the only flat style ones were the later two tone rectangular ones? Normally it would have had beehives?

I wonder if the reason he wants the flat ones is to fit it into the trailer when he goes to the races, maybe he's concerned the beehive ones get knocked off? I'll have to ask him but he's in Toledo right now....and I don't think he gets back till after I'm gone to Colorado.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Jimini II on June 14, 2019, 07:13:02 PM
I also dislike the pointy beehive lenses and ended up useing early Morris Minor clear flat lenses in the front turn signals of a Mini as i used a two filament bulb and some 7 inch flat lens H4's head lights with no sidelights in them. The flat lenses were fitted into the stock bee hive rubber housings with the chrome ring.

Couldn't you just paint the inside of the flat lenses with lens paint for the rears?
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 14, 2019, 08:02:18 PM
OK, those are available from Moss, but like you said he would have to tint the lenses.....I'll talk to him and see what he wants to do. Thanks for the tip!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on June 15, 2019, 09:08:02 AM
Quote from: MiniDave on June 14, 2019, 06:20:20 PM
So, the only flat style ones were the later two tone rectangular ones? Normally it would have had beehives?

All UK Mokes had the beehive style taillights.  I think the early Aussie Mokes also had the beehives and later went to the rectangular single housing styles.  All of the Portuguese and Cagiva Mokes had rectangular taillights.


Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on August 11, 2019, 12:30:51 PM
This weekend we got the the subframes installed in Clancy's Moke - I had previously gotten him a wiring harness, and he had it laid in, the speedo was in, lights were all in tho nothing was wired up.

The rear subframe went in easily, although we had to reset the body on his cart to get clearance for the front edge, but it went in fairly easily.

The front was a bit more troublesome, possibly because we had 5 "helpers" all of whom had ideas on how it should go back together, none of whom would listen to me so it probably took  couple hours longer than it should have done. The engine and radiator were also in the subby, and he had a 50mm 2 core aluminum rad which required some trimming of the panel to fit. But in the end we got it hung in the car, Clancy didn't have all the bolts and washers needed to button it up but we got it secured. He'll get the rest of the hardware he needs this afternoon and button it up. We weren't helped by the fact that I think this subby has been hit and is slightly tweaked.....

I forgot to take pics, but I will next time I'm up there.....one thing I'm really impressed by is the powdercoating on the body shell, it really turned out slick - every bit as good as a paint job, and far cheaper too. He paid about $1000 to have it stripped and soda blasted, then another $1500 for the powder coating - so $2500 all in and that's the entire car coated inside and out.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: BruceK on August 11, 2019, 07:21:14 PM
Is the powder coating matte or glossy? 
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on August 11, 2019, 10:21:14 PM
Shiny, and very smooth and slick - almost like glass.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on August 16, 2019, 07:56:33 AM
On August 1st I placed an order with M-Parts for some stuff for Clancy's Moke, you have to ask for a quote so they can remove VAT and add shipping to the US, which I did.

YESTERDAY I got the quote - 15 days to get a price so I could send them some money and get some parts! On top of that, when I went to pay, the banks fraud protection software denied my purchase - three times on two different cards. Even after I called the bank and they said it would go thru - it didn't. Finally, they had to remove all fraud protections from that account for one day so my purchase would go thru.

The only other time I've ever had a problem trying to buy parts from overseas was when my purchase exceeded the one day limit on my account. A quick call to the bank fixed that and that one went thru easily.

The good side of the M Parts purchase? it's already shipped and I have a tracking number. We'll see how long it takes for the parts to get here.

Edit: Tracking says delivery next Wed by 6pm, we'll see.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on August 21, 2019, 08:41:50 AM
Yeah......I have to say I'm not impressed with M-Parts.

My shipment hasn't left Europe yet, but tracking says it should be here by Monday, the 26th.....5 days longer than the original tracking said. I don't know if that's an M-Parts problem, the shipper's problem, a Brexit problem or what.......all I know is that it's taken a month to get a small shipment of in stock parts from them.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Willie_B on August 21, 2019, 09:06:06 AM
Quote from: MiniDave on August 21, 2019, 08:41:50 AM
Yeah......I have to say I'm not impressed with M-Parts.

My shipment hasn't left Europe yet, but tracking says it should be here by Monday, the 26th.....5 days longer than the original tracking said. I don't know if that's an M-Parts problem, the shipper's problem, a Brexit problem or what.......all I know is that it's taken a month to get a small shipment of in stock parts from them.

Going on two weeks just waiting on a quote from them, I should not be surprised after already dealing with them.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: 94touring on August 21, 2019, 11:38:00 AM
They must be so busy stamping out panels they don't have time to sell them!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Willie_B on August 21, 2019, 11:54:00 AM
It may be that they were at the IMM and other shows.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on August 21, 2019, 11:56:15 AM
When I couldn't get a response I had my brother (who lives in the Midlands) call them. They said they had just moved into a new facility and they were just getting things sorted out. However, there is no mention of that on the website, and they should at least answer a freaking email!  :-[

IMHO that is.....
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: jedduh01 on August 21, 2019, 12:47:35 PM
M-Parts has had their struggles over the last year it seems to answer and ship accurately in due time.
...

I recently took an order from Moke panels.com

https://mokepanels.com/moke-parts/ (https://mokepanels.com/moke-parts/)

They do not have a super thrifty online purchase ability but the response time was adequate = sent a paypal invoice to me .  Processed and shipped in fair time _ delivered on time too.

They may not have ALLLLL the moke parts M parts does but they offer Nearly the same.

   I would shop both for any Moke needs.


Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: tennmoke on August 22, 2019, 04:41:23 PM
All Moke body panels are made by Moke Panels - Leo Jacks. M Parts buys their panels from Leo. I have ordered from both. Frustrating waiting for MParts little old ladies to make up seat squabs but worth the wait. The squeaky wheel get oiled so CALL them to get updates. Don't waste your time on emails.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on August 22, 2019, 05:01:51 PM
Thanks for that info, I don't have an international calling plan so I messaged my brother in England and he called them for me. I got a response from them the next day....of course I still don't have my parts!  ::)
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 06, 2020, 02:42:33 PM
Clancy reached an impasse on his Moke so he brought it down to my shop so I could finish a few things while he's back on the road - this time to South Carolina to deliver a Chevelle to a customer (not his, he's just the deliver-er)

My brief was to get it wired and running. The Moke is a fairly simple car to wire, and he has a new harness - he had the back end all done, I just needed to do the dash and front lights, turn signals, engine compartment, starter, regulator, dizzy and such. Of course, he doesn't have a complete steering column so we decided to just use a turn signal switch much like a Bugeye, which meant making up a harness as the T/S switch usually has it's own harness that ties into the main harness.

I got that all done, ignition switch wired correctly, light switch wired correctly and dimmer working, then ran the water temp and oil pressure tubes. I also installed a set of horns and did some other tidying up. the worst part was trying to install the speedo cable, turns out it must have broken the cable at some point as the cable end was still in the housing on the trans, and had been RTV'd over. I finally got the lower radiator hose off so I could get access and managed to take the entire cable drive out of the trans. I was happy to see there was no broken off cable end embedded in the drive!

So, all that's left is to set the timing, hook up the choke and accelerator cables, install the missing center manifold studs and some other general fettling and it's ready to start. I also need to bleed the clutch and brakes and get them operational. He said I can drive it around, it's licensed and insured, but there's no exhaust so I'll settle for seeing it move under it's own power. On top of that it's sitting on top of a support frame and I'll need help getting it down off there.....so I won't be driving it till he comes to get it.....he'll bring a gantry crane and we'll use an engine hoist on the front, then we can slide the support frame right out the back and set it on the ground.

The reason there's a black surround on the gauge is that he cut the hole slightly too big, the gauge just fell thru the hole! So he'll get one of his buddies to machine up a surround later - this was the best I could do with what I had on hand.

I may get it started tomorrow if all goes well. He'll be back Tuesday and Wed he's leaving for 2 weeks, so we'll need it out of here by Tues night at the latest.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Willie_B on June 06, 2020, 03:52:19 PM
That's a good way To mount the front tag. I glued magnets on the back of the tag I will have on the front. Only put it on at a show.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 06, 2020, 04:53:33 PM
It will easily stick to the front of the car under the bumper then, right?
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Willie_B on June 06, 2020, 06:59:50 PM
Quote from: MiniDave on June 06, 2020, 04:53:33 PM
It will easily stick to the front of the car under the bumper then, right?

I can stick it to the bumper or on the front panel.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: jedduh01 on June 08, 2020, 07:04:23 AM
Nice progress = Looking good = amazing that its all Powdercoat too!


A good oleMmoke = use your arm for signals is the most direct signal system

I also like the tidynes of the brake lines + other bits.  VERY Clean!


Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 08, 2020, 08:44:28 AM
Clancy did all that, he builds racing Sprites so a lot of what he does is because of the lessons learned over his race career - for example - everything gets a nylock!

I did the front and rear subframe build up, got the engine running in the test stand a while back, he laid the harness in but I did all the connections. I put a Bugeye turn signal toggle switch right in front of the steering wheel on the brace and they work just fine.....

I've eyeballed the alignment and once I get it running, stopping and shifting we'll take it down off the stand he built and load it on the trailer to go back to his place - he's then leaving for two weeks to do SCCA stuff. when he gets back we'll finish up the details and it'll be on the road. Right now it doesn't have an exhaust system - just the header -  so we won't be driving it much till he gets that sorted too.

The powdercoat is really much nicer than I expected - but it does have one issue - if you scratch it how do you  touch it up?

BTW, he's looking for the steering column covers if anyone has some they don't need - we can buy a new t/s switch and horn stuff but I don't think the column covers are available?

Edit: MiniSpares has the column covers new, so no worries!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 08, 2020, 02:50:24 PM
2 steps forward.....

Got the clutch bled out with no issues.

Started bleeding the brakes and found a major leak at the proportioning valve in the back in the short line from the right flex line to the valve. Took the line off, flare looks perfect - no splits in line......yikes. I guess I'll have to make a new line but I can't see anything wrong with either it or the valve......

Clancy will be down tomorrow to get the car, I was hoping to be further along by now....maybe get it running too. We'll see how far I get tonight and tomorrow morning.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Scargo on June 08, 2020, 08:56:23 PM
If you need a Mk1 style (narrow)
column cover let me know.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 09, 2020, 08:14:21 AM
Thanks, I'll let Clancy know - how much?
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Scargo on June 09, 2020, 10:09:34 AM
I just for the first time, noticed a very tiny crack at one of the screw holes on the lower half. It seems it was glued on the inside by a previous owner. This does not cause any issue with attachment to the ears on the column, but due to that, tell Clancy he can have it at just the cost of shipping, which will not be much.

Again, this is the narrow version which came on the UK Mokes and Mk1 Mini's.

If acceptable, let me know where to send it. PM me if you wish.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 09, 2020, 10:49:04 AM
PM sent - thanks Howard!

So, my woes with hydraulic brake lines continue - I bought brand new lines from MiniSpares and they looked perfect, but the one going into the proportioning valve leaked like crazy! I found an old line in my pile 'o parts and bent it to fit and Bim, guess what? No leaks!

I got them somewhat bled, and when Clancy gets here I'll have him help me get the last bit of sponge out of them, then we'll take it off the fame support and load it on his trailer as he's leaving town for two weeks. We might get it running before he goes if he has time.

Stay tuned for pics of how we're gonna get it down off the support frame, should be interesting!

New line and old....can't see a damn thing wrong with this new line. All I know is that the old one I bent up to fit doesn't leak a drop!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 09, 2020, 01:51:04 PM
So, the Moke went home today - but not without it's teething problems.

The brand new brake master cylinder is no damn good, it leaks internally and sucks air.

The oil pressure gauge leaked oil all over the floor....good news is we know we have oil pressure.

The rear brake line I made up did not leak.

The engine would not start - which bothered me immensely - till I figured out what was wrong - it had a broken rotor bug, a new rotor and it fired right up. But.........new carb meant that it wasn't even remotely tuned and would only run on the choke.

However, the choke cable wouldn't reach so it wasn't hooked up, so I had to walk along side the car holding the choke up while he drove onto the trailer.

We lifted it off the storage frame using two engine hoists, which went more smoothly than I thought it would - but there wasn't room for the frame on the trailer so it's parked on the side of my house till he gets back in two weeks.

But - he drove it onto the trailer, oil leak and all - and it's headed home on it's own wheels!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: tsumini on June 09, 2020, 06:03:01 PM
I see your new brake pipe is a double flare. I got new pipes for my car and all were double flares but those removed were bubble flares. I got from MM and they said they would work which they did if I torqued them up until i thought they would break (see my Post 97 in my thread) ... also had trouble with the proportioning valve leaking. Glad you got it sorted.
Couldn't help but notice the moke RF tire hanging over the side of the trailer.  ;D 
On second thought that may be the trailer spare.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 09, 2020, 06:10:37 PM
You're right, trailer spare.....
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 10, 2020, 08:00:17 AM
tsumini, unless they're "modernized" the new parts, they should be double flares as bubble flares didn't become a thing till the 90's....and of course, I don't have a bubble flare tool anyway. I'm told bubble flares will work in place of doubles, but not the other way round.

It's still a puzzle to me why this line leaked so badly - it was a new MiniSpares factory made line, all I did was bend it into the right shape.

Of course the brand new master cylinder is no good either - which pisses me off greatly - I also found a brand new boot for one of the tie rod ends is split and frayed - it almost looks like something chewed on it, but I'm about 99% sure it's just the crap plasticky rubber they use nowadays - same stuff on the CV boots that don't even last a year.

I've been reading the complaints on the English forums about poor quality parts from all of the Mini parts suppliers lately but this is the first I've encountered and it bit me in the ass but good.

BTW, I sent a strongly worded letter off to MiniSpares this morning complaining about the crap quality of parts they're selling, it will be interesting to see if they reply and what they have to say.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: jedduh01 on June 10, 2020, 09:09:49 AM
To the Master cylinder...  How long has it been available / waiting to be installed and bled.?

Off Moke topic but relevant:  Master Cyl Recall....

    I only ask, I had a Cylinder purchased April 2019  - held in stock until used about a month ago on a car..
worked OK but after about 2 weeks lost brakes  completely... ( one drive pedal felt weird)  then next 2 -3 pumps NO pressure.
  got the Car home  via the parking brake and fluid Leaking down the pedal.

That turned to a inquire to Mini Spares , that turned into the Recall Cylinders.  I had a cylinder in the defective part range date.
   Meanwhile i installed a new seal kit i had + fixed it =  the Rubber seals were badly made + shrink upon use. 
New seal kit fixed it but I still wanted  something from mini spares.
 
After contact. they still wanted me to send the defective cylinder back.... annoying..  But i made them ship me a new one first.  - First the fellow forgot the shipment after one week = finally dispatched received for days later.  Now processed a return at 29$ my cost back to England ( they say they will refund) but we shall see.......

Just FYI  I have the details of what to look for ( but the stamping is on the bottom side of the cylinder )  There is a code range of the affected units. B30 -B52 I think....I had a B50




Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 10, 2020, 09:41:02 AM
Yeah, they replied but all they asked for were the part numbers of the parts I had issues with....we'll see what they do but I'm not shipping the parts back to them unless they pay the shipping both ways (new part and return)

I'll get a m/c kit and install it too as I'm sure that's all that's wrong with it - bad seal inside. It just annoys me when I have to do things over because of a bad part - twice the labor or more as you also have to clean up all the brake fluid that leaks out.

I know I'm not the first to have issues, especially with rubber parts. That's why NOS parts are bringing stupid prices on Ebay these days....but at least there's a chance they'll work and hold up. when it comes to brakes tho - that's a safety thing not just inconvenience. first time a new master cylinder fails and the car takes out a busload of kindergarteners and nuns there will be hell to pay.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 15, 2020, 04:12:26 PM
Haven't heard a word back from MiniSpares since they asked me what part numbers I was having trouble with.....didn't really expect to of course.

While waiting for the rest of the bits to come in and while Clancy's out of town on SCCA bidness, I found a set of casters that would work on the stand - I had to fettle them a bit so they would fit and turn easily, but they bolted right into the existing welded in fasteners. They are quite a bit taller too, so now not only will it roll easier, we can get a jack under the frame to lift it if needed to go over a lip into a garage or onto a trailer.

The casters he had on there were not nearly heavily rated enough for what he was doing - they had collapsed and were more like squares than rounds!

These were on sale at HF for like $8 each!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 24, 2020, 05:20:20 PM
Clancy pulled the brake master off the Moke - code was B70 - so not in the recall range?

BTW, where was the recall mentioned? I see nothing on the MS site.

I'm going to get a repair kit from Vicky Brits and install it tomorrow so we can get his brakes working. I also got the new brake cables so I can get his e-brake installed and working too.

Car should be drivable tomorrow afternoon - video if it happens!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: jedduh01 on June 25, 2020, 07:27:53 AM
After a bit of digging., Here is the supplier Website of the recall.

http://recall.920e.co.uk/

As i bet they supply to everyone not just mini spares, mini spares isnt the sole responsible for collecting the defective units or such.

as also discussed on MK 1 forum, Where i had also read about it Late 2019

http://mk1-forum.net/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=26753&p=229751&hilit=cylinder+recall#p229751
_________________

in playing with masters = I have become real good at doing them at this point. I had one (new seals) that wouldn't get ANY fluid moment or pressure.
I ended up cracking the line At the cyl =  FINALLY a type of BENCH BLEED>some fluid popped out.. and re attached line the cylnder worked.

Surely give that a try too.  Atleast see fluid is coming OUT of the cyl from the Line start point. (most the time they're not that difficult to get fluid moving)

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 25, 2020, 11:08:29 AM
Thanks for the update!

We had fluid coming out OK, but after we'd get pressure and a good pedal, it would just go away, and there would be tons of air in the system again. We pulled the guts out and one of the seals just looks totally wrong, so I'm going to get a kit from Vicky Spares and see if a new rubber will do the trick - it was the inner rubber, not the outer one.....

A couple of other teething problems have showed up - I fixed the oil leak at the gauge - turns out the line popped out of the fitting. I got the right e Brake cables but Clancy couldn't find the handle, so we ran the cables into the car and taped them down so they wouldn't fall back out.

I got the car to run but the carb just is lean - like it's sucking air somewhere.....that will have to wait as we were working outside and it was just too damn hot today. But with the choke out the car went around the block and it was pretty quick - that put a smile on Clancy's face!

As soon as Clancy can find the rest of his parts we can get the engine running right and the brakes sorted.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: drmini on July 25, 2020, 04:19:19 AM
Great job! Everything looks great and I can't wait to see videos of it driving down the street. Looking at the photos I do have one bit of input/my opinion. Hope I don't offend anyone, but I would never tie a Mini down on a trailer like that. Those bars are easily bent and once bent alignment is changed. Not sure how it was tied down at the rear, but it doesn't appear to be strapped around the back part of the rear subframe which is a good thing. I've hauled more Minis than I can count and never had any damage. I have always tied each individual wheel down and let the Mini ride on it's own suspension. This is especially useful if you're hauling a hydro car. FWIW, I do normally put a loosely fitted chain or a cable from the trailer to those front "tie bars" just as an extra bit of safety in case a strap breaks. Hope this is useful info. BTW, how many Minis have you seen with the rear subframe distorted where someone has ratcheted a strap down real hard? It's especially noticeable on a Moke.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on July 25, 2020, 08:27:08 AM
Thanks Hugh, and I'm glad to see you're still running Minis around the country - we need you!

Clancy hauls cars all over the country too, so I figure he knows how to lash them down safely - I agree with tying the wheels down and letting it float myself....and the chain. This is how Dan does his when he trailers them around.

As to the Moke, we're still waiting on the caliper seals that MiniSpares said they would send. Clancy is off in Elkhart this weekend for the races....I know he wanted to take the Moke there with him but  with no brakes.....

He put an exhaust system on it and drove it around the neighborhood (with no brakes!) and he said it's running well now!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: 94touring on July 25, 2020, 08:31:54 AM
I bought fancy straps just for tying down by the wheels as to not damage suspension.  Have emergency chains loosely in place but considering how beefy the straps are, it would take a major event for the chains to be required.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on October 12, 2020, 09:48:59 AM
As far as I can tell, Moke Panels is the only one who sells a Moke seat in steel ...they're currently out of stock but at £237.50 plus £122 to ship, that's $515 American - for one bare steel seat!   :-\

If anyone has a better option (he won't accept fiberglass) I'm all ears. If not he may bite the bullet and order one.

He's been driving the Moke but it still needs some more tweaking - the carb needle is all wrong and the damn brakes went out again after we finally got them to hold fluid and pump up. I think it's the damn master cylinder - I'm really not happy  - it was a brand new cylinder, we put a new and supposedly correct kit it in, and the bore looked fine but here it is again. We had to replace the seals in the brand new calipers too as they were leaking too!

Still have to wire in the turn signal switch - I'll do that next time I'm up that way.

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Red Riley on October 12, 2020, 10:42:32 AM
You can buy aluminum bomber seats from the hotrod/speedshop places for a couple hundred bucks or less. Might be an option to consider. They even sell them on Amazon.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/shop/speedway-motors-car-seats~8207-10191-4322-129-199-14108 (https://www.speedwaymotors.com/shop/speedway-motors-car-seats~8207-10191-4322-129-199-14108)
https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Hot-Rod-Bomber-Seat/dp/B01I48G9EK (https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Hot-Rod-Bomber-Seat/dp/B01I48G9EK)
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on October 12, 2020, 11:57:41 AM
He wants OEM English Moke seats....I suggested going with a later style seat too, both for availability and comfort! He says this is mostly a race track pit car, although he did get it licensed and insured for the street and he plans to do a couple of Mini events in 2012 - assuming there are any by then.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Willie_B on October 12, 2020, 01:35:11 PM
Nippycars is who is making the seats. They are on facebook.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on October 12, 2020, 05:17:05 PM
I looked on their FB page and also their Ebay UK store, didn't see them....gotta link?
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Willie_B on October 12, 2020, 06:54:49 PM
Quote from: MiniDave on October 12, 2020, 05:17:05 PM
I looked on their FB page and also their Ebay UK store, didn't see them....gotta link?

Found them on their FB page but they are listed there for 275 pounds.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Scargo on October 12, 2020, 07:22:37 PM
Have you tried M-Parts and Runamoke?
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on October 12, 2020, 08:38:23 PM
Yes M-Parts, they only offer fiberglass seats, not heard of Runamoke - have to look them up.

Nope, Runamoke don't offer the seats - at least they don't show on their web page.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on May 24, 2021, 07:10:18 PM
Been a while since I updated this thread, I did order a seat for the Moke - it was pretty damn spendy by the time it got here, about $500 after exchange rate and shipping! Then he had it powdercoated to match the others too....

So, the Moke came back like a bad penny to my shop again. My brief is to fix the brakes, get it to run right, and fix all the electrical stuff that I fixed before, oh and straighten out the front end......more about that in a minute. Leaving it out all winter in the rain and snow didn't do it much good I guess.

The first part of the running issue was easy, a worn out starter, tho they're not so easy to change when the front panel doesn't come off. Did they not think these cars would ever need service?

Once that was sorted it was on to other electrical bits. I had bought and installed a correct Mk1 turn signal switch, but before that came in I had rigged up a temp toggle switch, like a Bugeye has. It was no longer working so I decided to wire up the correct one - but it didn't work either. I had to take it apart, lube it so it would move and straighten the contacts that must have been bent out of shape when someone forced it to move while frozen up. It took a bit to sort out where the wires went too as the colors on the switch did not match up to those on the harness. It only has a two prong flasher relay, so I ordered a 3 prong too so the little light in the end will work.

The headlights were also dead, that needed yet another new switch as this one had clearly gotten wet and corroded. Once all that was fixed I started it up for the first time - it ran like crap. It would only start on full choke and ran really fast, if you pushed the choke in it just died. Today I pulled the top off the carb and immediately figured out what was wrong - no slinky! All the springs I have are for HIF carbs, but I called around a few friends and one had an old junk HS4 that we could steal the spring out of. With that in place it fired up easily and once I got the mixture set approximately right it idled nicely and runs up fine.  I also installed an air filter that I had gotten from WilieB for my car - but it didn't fit mine......fit's perfectly on this one!

Next - suspension.....he had put brand new tires all around and in less than 50 miles completely ate up the front two! Of course I have no idea how he drove it at all with no brakes (did I mention it has no brakes?) and running the way it did. I ordered in some adjustable lower control arms - it already had the adjustable tie bars  - and once I pulled the wheels off I could immediately see what was wrong - the tie bars were cranked all the way in - it musta had 20 degrees of caster! So I went ahead and installed the new lower control arms, reset the tie bars about where I thought they should be and viola! the wheels are straight again. I had told him when he installed the subframes to get an alignment and he never did - no idea who cranked the tie bars all the way in - but it cost him two new tires.

Next up - brakes. the brakes have pedal, you just have to pump it three times. I went to the rear and the rear shoes were all the way in, so I thought aha! that'll fix it. so I adjusted them out correctly and went and pumped the brakes - pedal came up perfectly! a few minutes later I tried it again and we're back to square one. I have an adaptor coming for my pressure bleeder, but I don't think that's the issue. The brand new master cylinder leaked from the first time we tried to bleed it, so I bought a kit and we rebuilt it. Now it doesn't leak, but it does this......

Lastly - Brad I'm glad you didn't powdercoat your Moke, there are rust stains all over the car from seams and such where the powder didn't flow. It might be fine for coating parts, but for a street driven car that stays out in the weather - not so much!

A few more things have been added to my list, he wants me to wire up the fog lights and the electric fan in the wheelwell, and install a horn button.

Other than that.....   ;D

Interesting thing about the tires in the pic, that's how they came off the car, the inside of one and the outside of the other are worn out. When the left tire was straight ahead, the right tire was cocked in at about a 30* angle and had a ton of positive camber!

Oh, and it clearly needs a speedo too!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: drmini on May 26, 2021, 07:46:43 AM
Looks like he needs some speedo work as well!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: cstudep on May 26, 2021, 08:48:30 AM
Either that or Dave needs to slow the heck down, his garage isn't quite big enough for that kind of speed! ;D
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on May 26, 2021, 10:40:16 AM
Yes, I would say it needs a speedo. If anyone has one for sale cheap I'll let him know, doesn't have to be a 130 MPH Cooper S version either! Of course, since it now has a 1275 instead of an 850, who knows what ratio is in the gearbox for the speedo?

A couple of other issues have appeared, it has a terrible knock that follows the wheel rotation, I think it's the ends of the u-joint bolts hitting the header, so I'll see if I can knock about an 1/8" off the ends of the bolts for clearance Clarance.

I made up a harness - soldered on those cute little Lucas wire ends so they would match the rest of the harness - added a relay and wired up the fog lights and fan. First time I turned on the fogs I was disappointed that they didn't light. But when I pulled the light apart I could see they had never been wired to the harness, so that was an easy fix. Now one works but the other has a bad bulb.

Then I had to swap the wires on the fan connector so it would suck instead of blow.

Last thing to do electrically is buy a momentary contact switch to use as a horn button, find a place for it, drill a hole and wire it up. I already installed the horns and wired them to the car, but I had no idea what steering wheel he was using, and the one he chose doesn't use a horn button.

Once I'm done with that I'll run it up to the alignment shop. With that done all that's left is to figure out what's up with the brakes. Someone has suggested he left out the little valve at the end of the plunger when he rebuilt the master cylinder, which means finding another rebuild kit and pulling the master again. <sighs>
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on May 26, 2021, 12:20:59 PM
Drove to the alignment shop but they can't get to it till Friday as the fellow who does my cars took his wife to the hospital to have a baby!

The good news is it drove pretty well. I think I can tune the carb a little more but even on this 90* day in stop and go traffic it never went over 190. When I had to stop at a light for a while I kicked the fan on to see if it would make any difference and it pulled it down to about 185, then the light changed. Going down the road even at city speeds it runs right at 180.....I have no idea what thermostat is in it tho.

However, that doesn't help to keep ME from overheating, and man it was hot in that sun today. he had a Bimini top made for it but it didn't fit well, so he's having them fix it.

So, I have a couple of days to sort out the brakes and see if I can find a master cylinder kit locally. Other than that, once the alignment is sorted that should make a good drivable Moke out of it.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: cstudep on May 26, 2021, 02:13:33 PM
I have a speedo but it's KPH around the outside with small mph around the inside. The chrome bezel isn't in the greatest shape either. Also have no idea if it actually  works or not, so all in all its probably completely useless to him. LOL
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: LarryLebel on May 26, 2021, 09:39:44 PM
Run the speedo up with your electric drill.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on May 27, 2021, 06:27:24 AM
I seem to recall that if you test a Mini's speedometer using an electric drill, you need to run the drill in reverse to avoid damaging the speedometer.

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on May 27, 2021, 06:47:17 AM
No need to, I can see that it needs to be rebuilt....but I have no good way to determine what the gearbox is....it would just be a guess how far off the new or repaired speedo would be as this engine is not original to the car....in fact I think Clancy said it might be from an Austin America? The tranny could be original, but it feels like it has a much taller diff than an 850 would have had - however I'm just guessing as I only drove it up to about 40 mph. It still has the magic wand shifter too, but I understand a remote can easily be converted to MW......who knows,  it was all done long ago in a galaxy far, far away.....   ;D

I'm just happy that it now runs and drives pretty well.....that's what he was after.....something to use on race weekends as a pit car, and something to take the grandkids to get ice cream in.

Did Mokes ever have seat belts? Even lap belts? My wife won't even go around the block in the car - she feels too exposed she says.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on May 27, 2021, 07:34:01 AM
Early Mokes had seat belts as an optional extra accessory.  There were two options for the fronts: standard lap belts and a weird three-point arrangement where the should strap mounted on the sides of the rear fenders behind the rear seats.  Only lap belts were available for the rear seats.

The later Aussie Mokes and Portuguese Mokes had seat belts as standard equipment.  The fronts were three-point with the should strap mounting to the roll bar just behind the front seats.

Edit: I put standard lap belts for all seats in the white Moke when I restored it.  The new shell came with the proper captive nuts already in place per the factory setup.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on May 27, 2021, 08:11:08 AM
I'll have to look and see if this one has the captive nuts, seems like it should. And Clancy being a racer, I'm surprised belts weren't on his to do list.....maybe he has some and just hasn't gotten them in yet....

Edit: Clancy has lap belts to install.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on May 27, 2021, 08:33:46 AM
This picture should give you an idea where to look for the captive nuts for the front seat belts.  The picture shows the fronts laying on the floor (front seats not installed).  The rears are installed as well but so are the rear seats, so the mounting points are not visible.

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on May 27, 2021, 10:14:56 AM
Thanks Michael, but that metal was rotted out and replaced with a patch panel, so he'll simply drill some holes and put a stiffener on the other side.

Looks like the only way to use a lap belt is a web one like in your pic, as there's no room between the seats for the stalks to fit for a reel type. I suppose you could put them behind the seat....
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: drmini on May 27, 2021, 10:50:38 AM
Quote from: MPlayle on May 27, 2021, 07:34:01 AM
Early Mokes had seat belts as an optional extra accessory.  There were two options for the fronts: standard lap belts and a weird three-point arrangement where the should strap mounted on the sides of the rear fenders behind the rear seats.  Only lap belts were available for the rear seats.

The later Aussie Mokes and Portuguese Mokes had seat belts as standard equipment.  The fronts were three-point with the should strap mounting to the roll bar just behind the front seats.

Edit: I put standard lap belts for all seats in the white Moke when I restored it.  The new shell came with the proper captive nuts already in place per the factory setup.

The UK Mokes didn't get seatbelts until 1967 when they were in the MK2 Mokes.  The placement of the captivated nuts were in a different location than what Mike Playle's photo shows.  The location he has shown is where they were located on OZ Mokes, as the retractable unit was aligned with the rollbar location. I have attached a photo of an OZ Moke which shows the same location as Playle. The MK2 Moke captivated nut was located more forward than this.  As you can see in the other photo, it is in alignment with the captivated nuts in the tunnel. Also, you can see that the captivated nuts for the rear seat belts is directly below the shock tower in the rear.  Hope this helps.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on May 27, 2021, 12:49:41 PM
Hugh (drmini),

My shell was a UK Moke MK2 shell built by M-Panels in the UK.  That is where they put the captive nuts for the seat belts.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on May 27, 2021, 03:11:46 PM
I got a few more things sorted on the Moke, the aircleaner wasn't fitting properly, in fact it wasn't fitting at all over the elbow like I thought it was. He had a 1/2" spacer under the carb, so I thought if I could use a longer engine steady bar that would tip it forward enough that it would fit - I have one in stock so I swapped out the bushings and tried to put it in. But when I pulled it forward the radiator would hit the headlight bucket before the bolts would go in. So, the next idea was to simply remove the carb spacer - but when I did that the throttle lever hit the intake manifold and wouldn't open more than half way.

So, split the difference? Except I didn't have any spacers thinner than that one. So, I got out my carb gaskets and just stacked em up till the lever cleared. It's a temp solution as I'll have the old aluminum spacer milled down to just thick enough to let the throttle lever clear......with that done the air cleaner fit correctly. Result!

I went to the local bike shop and bought a cable to use for the accelerator - the one he used was way too short and would bind slightly, not coming back to idle all the time.

I also took the steering wheel off and reset it approximately straight, the big nut was only finger tight anyway.

Tomorrow afternoon I have an appointment at the alignment shop, and I've ordered a horn button that should be here tomorrow too.

With that done all that's left is to sort out the brakes....I have a master cylinder kit on the way but it won't get here in time. The brakes work fine, you just have to pump the pedal a couple of times.  ::)

It's slowly coming around!   71.gif

It's kinda fun to drive even with all the difficulties I hadn't sorted yet, now with those done and the alignment right, I'll get to do a proper test drive, although with no seat belts and no pads on the seats I doubt I'll be hitting the highway!

(the blue tape on the dash was to mark a couple of possible places to mount the horn button)

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Jimini II on May 27, 2021, 08:28:28 PM
I used retractable lap belts that were the same ones I used in my Jeep Wrangler, they worked fine.
I decided on them as I did not want 2 feet of lap belt with a metal buckle banging around on my fresh paint.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: drmini on May 28, 2021, 06:53:36 AM
Quote from: MPlayle on May 27, 2021, 12:49:41 PM
Hugh (drmini),

My shell was a UK Moke MK2 shell built by M-Panels in the UK.  That is where they put the captive nuts for the seat belts.

Just because they put them there doesn't mean they are in the correct location. That's not where they were in your original white MK2 shell.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on May 28, 2021, 06:57:37 AM
The original shell did not come with any - the lower portion of each pontoon had been replacement patches as well as all of the floors, the lower half the toe board, the entire heal board, and more.

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: drmini on May 28, 2021, 09:23:41 AM
I still say that M-parts aren't the most reliable source when it comes to doing things right.  As you can see in Brad's shiny blue Moke from M-parts, it has the seat belt captivated nuts in a different location than the ones in your MK2 shell from the same folks.  Yeah, he ordered a MK1 shell but they sent him a MK2 shell instead.  Attention to detail certainly isn't their strongest point.  I still stand by my statement that the UK Mokes had a more forward location than the OZ Mokes did, and it's all due to the rollbar and how they used it in conjunction with the shoulder harness mounts.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on May 28, 2021, 10:27:06 AM
Ok then, moving on from the seatbelt discussion......

Today I wrapped up the last electrical bit, the horn button came in so I drilled a hole in the dash and mounted and wired it up - and it works! It's odd how he has some of the electrical components like lights and turn signals wired hot, but the horn is only live with the key on.

I know it's supposed to work thru the center button on the steering wheel, but as the wheel he chose doesn't have one we went this way instead. He also found one half of the  steering column cover, once he finds the other half I'll install that too.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: BruceK on May 28, 2021, 01:00:12 PM
Quote from: MiniDave on May 27, 2021, 03:11:46 PM

It's kinda fun to drive even with all the difficulties I hadn't sorted yet, now with those done and the alignment right, I'll get to do a proper test drive, although with no seat belts and no pads on the seats I doubt I'll be hitting the highway!



Was that your  first experience driving a Moke?  I think they are more fun than a regular Mini with the exposed seating position and exposure to the open air all around - sort of a combination between motorcycle and car. 
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on May 28, 2021, 02:00:02 PM
Yes, and "experience" describes it well, considering the brakes have to be pumped, the engine stumbles off idle and was hard to keep running in these cold temps plus no seatbelts nor seat pads on it so I was sliding around a bit! Plus too and also, today when I drove it back to the alignment shop it was 51*!

it does go like stink once it clears its throat tho, and with the alignment fixed it handles like the very lightweight Mini that it is. I doubt I would want to own one tho.....but it's perfect for what he says he'll use it - as a pit car or taking the tiny grandkids to get ice cream in the summer. Hope he has the top on it by then.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 07, 2021, 06:00:38 PM
Some pics of the Moke in action at Elkhart Lake this past weekend - doing what he built it to do!

He said it ran flawlessly all weekend and he is a happy camper. There are still a few bits to attend to, but it's getting there now.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 08, 2021, 09:40:18 AM
After the race at Blackhawk he's going to drop it off at my shop again to fix the last few bits....

Handbrake - button is stuck inside.

Sits low on left front - I have one old high low left, I'll stick it in there - I wonder why low on just that one corner?

Install correct flasher relay - so the little light in the end of the switch will work. We've talked about installing a "shift light" on the dash so people will remember to turn the signals off, since he doesn't have a cancelling mechanism in the column and with this steering wheel blocks the view of the light anyway.

Install spacer under carb - Mark is making it on his mill right now

Install bolts in the bottom of the subframe to the bulkhead - I guess he forgot these.... ::)

Replace master cylinder and see if I can get the brakes working correctly. We put a new master in it originally....

Install the lower bushing in the steering column.

Grease all zerks.

Anything else he thinks of over the next two weeks......
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on June 08, 2021, 10:13:37 AM
Quote from: MiniDave on June 08, 2021, 09:40:18 AM
Sits low on left front - I have one old high low left, I'll stick it in there - I wonder why low on just that one corner?

Could the plastic cup under the knuckle joint have given out?

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 08, 2021, 10:48:25 AM
the cup was new, and I don't think it would drop that much, but I'll know when I take it back apart.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 13, 2021, 02:16:25 PM
In order to make this air cleaner assembly work on the Moke I needed to remove the 1/2 thick aluminum spacer under the carb as there wasn't room between the carb and the bulkhead for the air cleaner to fit. I had bought some phenolic material to use on my EFI projects so I sent a square of 1/4" thick material over to a friend along with a gasket and he milled me out a new spacer.

However, after looking at it I think it may be too thick, 3/16 might work better. The only reason there needs to be a spacer in there at all is to give clearance between the manifold and the throttle linkage, otherwise I would have just left it out.

As I didn't have a thinner spacer last week before he headed off to Elkhart I just stacked up all the gaskets I had in stock till I got enough clearance for the linkage, as you can see in the first pic.

I'm going to try this one just to see if it will work, otherwise my friend Mark can mill it down or I can get some 3/16 phenolic material from McMaster

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: LarryLebel on June 13, 2021, 02:37:56 PM
You could cut down the spacer to the right thickness. That's what I did. Also, I think the spacer is there to insulate the carb from the manifold, not just act as a spacer.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 22, 2021, 08:14:13 PM
Precisely what we did. I had some phenolic material that was 1/4" think and we cut out a new spacer and milled it down to 3/16". Fits perfectly and now the air cleaner doesn't hit the bulkhead.

I also got the vacuum advance tube from Mini Spares and installed it, so now the car should run well and get better mileage too.

Lastly, this car has the Mk1 turn signal switch with the little green light at the end, which works, but because of the steering wheel he's using you couldn't see it, so he gave me an LED light to mount on the dash and boy howdy you can see it now! It might be too much at night but even in broad daylight he shouldn't forget and leave his signals on!

I have two more tasks to finish, I need to add a high low to the left front corner, and replace the brake master cylinder and see if I can get the brakes working correctly. Oh and finish the handbrake.

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: LarryLebel on June 22, 2021, 09:16:41 PM
You've got an oil pressure gauge there, so use the oil pressure light as a repeater.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 23, 2021, 12:01:32 PM
Could have done that, didn't think of it. However, this will be way more noticeable with this LED blasting away.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 23, 2021, 12:13:21 PM
Well, I found out why the car is sitting low on the left front corner, and it's going to be a bugger to fix.

The trumpet is not seated correctly in the rubber cone, the picture doesn't do justice to just how out of whack it is, and it's wedged solidly enough that I can't see any way to pry it into place. On top of that the nut is broken out of the cone, so there's no way to pull it up and release the tension.

At this point I think the only way to resolve it is to cut the trumpet - which also will be a bitch since I can't release the pressure on it I'm sure it's going to trap the blade before I get very far thru, let alone all the way.

Once I get it out then I can remove the cone and swap it with the one in the rear, then I can use my tool to pull it up and get the hilo in place. Sheesh.

The only good news is that my MiniSpares delivery scheduled for Friday afternoon will be here today.

First pic is the one out of place, second pic is the other side. Note also the rubber bits are trashed - and these parts are only about a year old and probably only a few hundred miles on them. the new rubber shift boot is also torn. I already replaced all the boots on the ball joints and tie rod ends.

Not at all happy with MiniSpares rubber bits these days.

Not. At. All.

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on June 23, 2021, 01:43:11 PM
He is missing the bump stops under the top arms on both sides.  It looks like he never put any back in on reassembly and that may have let the arm drop enough extra on a bump to let the cone and trumpet separate and become misaligned.

Mini Spares: bump stop (http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Suspension/Front/Dry/2A4267MS.aspx?190201&ReturnUrl=/shop/classic/Suspension/Front/Dry.aspx%7CBack%20to%20shop)

(http://www.minispares.com/image.axd?type=product&picture=350/2A4267MS.jpg)

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 23, 2021, 02:10:23 PM
Yes I know....we were going to install them after he got the car down on it's wheels and the engine in. However, as much tension as is on these arms at full drop I seriously doubt there was any play that allowed the trumpet to move out of place. Either I didn't get it set right originally (highly unlikely but possible) or he did something in the transport home and installation (also unlikely) but I also noticed there's no seal on the front of the upper arm and there sure was one when I built it. It's possible that the seal cracked and broke and fell out - none of the others are cracked tho so I don't know what the answer is....

At any rate, I got the cone out but I don't know if I can save it as it's badly distorted from having the trumpet in the wrong place and being driven on it. I was able to cut the trumpet, but as expected the pressure trapped the blade in my saw, so I got a small sharp chisel and wedged it open just enough to finish the cut, then I removed the upper control arm and got it out. It also damaged the plastic cup and of course the rubber boot was shot too, but I got new ones with the knuckle joint for the hilo.

If I can get it back in shape I'll use it on the rear and move one of the rear ones up to the front and use a high low to make sure it's even. Note the nut is missing out of the center of the cone

I'm working on it......but I've pretty much worn out my arm beating on it trying to round it out so the trumpet will fit.



Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Willie_B on June 23, 2021, 04:16:50 PM
Maybe you could take the bent cone to an exhaust shop that does big trucks. They may have a pipe stretcher that might make it round again.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 23, 2021, 04:27:50 PM
Wish you could have said that about 4 hours ago!  ;D

My arm and shoulder are seriously sore already - tomorrow will be hell!  ::)
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 24, 2021, 07:20:18 PM
I was surprised this morning when my arm and shoulder didn't hurt worse, in fact they're not too sore at all.

Last night I got all the parts back together and got the car back on it's wheels. I did go ahead and use the damaged cone on the back, since it didn't have the nut anymore I couldn't use it in the front as I couldn't use the compressor tool on it....in the back you don't need to. I'm pleased to see that it sat just almost perfectly, but today I wound the adjuster down a few flats to try and compensate for the driver's weight a bit.

I also greased all the fittings around the car, retorqued the wheels and moved it forward on the lift - Clancy never got the lower subframe bolts installed - the ones that go in from the bottom and into the bulkhead and floor - so I needed to make room to get at those.

Today I swapped out the master cylinder, but I ran out of steam before I could get them bled. Tomorrow I'll do that, Clancy is planning to come get it on Saturday. I did get the new adaptor so I can use my pressure bleeder so I don't need Rose pumping the pedal, and that should make bleeding the brakes go a little easier.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 25, 2021, 01:47:29 PM
After replacing the master cylinder, all that was left was to bleed the brakes and see if I could get consistent pedal.....I bought an adapter for my pressure bleeder that was supposed to fit these master cylinders, but all it did was leak brake fluid all oved the place. I spent 20 minutes just cleaning fluid off the car. I don't know if powder coat is susceptible to brake fluid or not, but I sure didn't want to find out!

So after that failure I enticed Rose down to sit in the car and pump pump pump hold.....

I knew there was a lot of air in the system so I started with the right front to try and get fluid moving thru the system, once I had it going I moved to the rear and bled them, then back to the front. The good news is - we have brakes now!

While I was under the car I noticed the rear edge of the subframe had one bolt snug and none on the right side. I had to get my burrs out and reshape the hole in the subframe a little so I could get a 3/8 coarse tap to start, then I ran all four holes and put new bolts and washers in and tightened it up.

Finally........... I think this car is done. At least my part.

I wanted to take it for a spin around the block but almost the minute I finished it started storming. Maybe tomorrow before he comes to get it.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Willie_B on June 25, 2021, 02:02:15 PM
Quote from: MiniDave on June 25, 2021, 01:47:29 PM
I had to get my burrs out and reshape the hole in the subframe a little so I could get a 3/8 coarse tap to start, then I ran all four holes and put new bolts and washers in and tightened it up.

Does the body have captive nuts for the lower subframe mounts?
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MPlayle on June 25, 2021, 02:10:49 PM
Quote from: Willie_B on June 25, 2021, 02:02:15 PM
Does the body have captive nuts for the lower subframe mounts?

Mine did not.  I ran the bolts through from the top.  I think I also used nylock nuts as well as lock washers on those.

Edit: That exhaust looks like a large bore down-pipe transitioning into a small bore exhaust the rest of the way back.  Won't that be a bit restrictive on the engine performance?

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 25, 2021, 02:31:33 PM
Quote from: Willie_B on June 25, 2021, 02:02:15 PM
Quote from: MiniDave on June 25, 2021, 01:47:29 PM
I had to get my burrs out and reshape the hole in the subframe a little so I could get a 3/8 coarse tap to start, then I ran all four holes and put new bolts and washers in and tightened it up.

Does the body have captive nuts for the lower subframe mounts?

Yes, there were captive nuts in the body work
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 25, 2021, 02:35:15 PM
Quote from: MPlayle on June 25, 2021, 02:10:49 PM
That exhaust looks like a large bore down-pipe transitioning into a small bore exhaust the rest of the way back.  Won't that be a bit restrictive on the engine performance?

Actually, it's a small bore header (for a 998) and yes that goes into an aftermarket pipe and muffler that Clancy had a local muffler shop weld up for him. But it doesn't seem to hurt performance any. OTOH, no one will be driving this car at 70+, it's an in-town car only!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on June 26, 2021, 01:18:44 PM
Drove the Moke around the block and boy howdy is it quick! Considering it's out of an AA our guess is that is has the 3:65 final drive that those came with, so I would bet 55-60 mph is about the best you want to do, although now that it's leveled out and aligned, it drives pretty well.

Clancy brought his big trailer down to take the Moke back to Lawrence as it was supposed to rain and the little one car trailer is full of an MGB GT V8 right now, we loaded it up and off he went - very pleased with the fact that it now has brakes, and that the turn signal repeater light is easy to see even in bright sunlight.

Next week I'll tear down his race motor so I can assess the work it needs and get parts ordered.

I also now have all three Sprite transmissions to build, tho I don't have parts yet for one of them.

More as it happens.

Clancy brought me some wall art for the shop, this is a laser cut accurate layout of the track at Blackhawk Farms!

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: Jimini II on June 28, 2021, 06:23:43 PM
Quote from: MiniDave on June 25, 2021, 02:31:33 PM
Quote from: Willie_B on June 25, 2021, 02:02:15 PM
Quote from: MiniDave on June 25, 2021, 01:47:29 PM
I had to get my burrs out and reshape the hole in the subframe a little so I could get a 3/8 coarse tap to start, then I ran all four holes and put new bolts and washers in and tightened it up.

Does the body have captive nuts for the lower subframe mounts?

Yes, there were captive nuts in the body work

That's a first, I have never seen those on any Moke or Mini front sub frame, only seen them on places where you could not reach like the rear sub frame mounts into the heel board/sill section.
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on February 11, 2022, 07:21:16 PM
Out Moking around at CoTA....we're behind the main pits....

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on November 26, 2022, 05:33:31 PM
Clancy's Moke is back in the shop for a bunch of small stuff:

1) install an alternator - the genny was working but just doesn't keep up at the slow speeds he trundles around in the pits or on a parade. I've got it bolted in and the belt tensioned, and I've made up a wiring harness. Now I need to drop the dash and make sure there's a wire to the ign light as that's what energizes the alternator. I'll also have to relocate the coil as it was attached to the genny.

2) install a new speedo - the impetus for this is less the speedo as we think it has an AA gearbox, so the ratio will be wrong and the speedo will be slow - but also to get his fuel gauge working.

3) install the column surround - this won't work with the steering wheel he has now, so unless he has another wheel or wants to buy one of mine, I can't do this. (he's decided to go steering wheel shopping, so for now we'll shelve this.

4) change oil and filter.

5) bolt down the loose electric fan in the wheel well.....probably need to make a bracket for this.

6) raise the left front corner a bit more to level out the car.

7) general tune up, valve adj, points, plugs, carb clean and tune

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: 94touring on November 26, 2022, 07:28:38 PM
If you had a couple more "Clancy's" you'd be working full time on minis!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on November 26, 2022, 07:54:25 PM
I am desperately trying to get out of the repair business! Clancy is the only one I'm working on anymore, and he does a lot of favors for me so it's a fair exchange.

Running the engine in the engine stand for Dave Long a couple weeks ago was supposed to be just him borrowing the stand but turned out to be me doing most of the work as usual. Oh well. It's done and gone too.

Once I get this last engine built and delivered I'm out of the Mini engine/trans business, except for my own, if at all possible.

Got the dash opened up and the old speedo out, there were no bulbs in any of the sockets, so I'll have to try and find some. You need the ign light to excite the alternator and get it to make power, plus it would probably be nice if the other lights worked too. I also saw that the fuel gauge was not hooked up properly, no wonder it doesn't work.

I'll get all that sorted tomorrow if I can find some bulbs. I'm also going to see if I can find a "universal" shift boot since the one I ordered from Spares doesn't even come close - once again I figure it's because this is an AA remote gearbox converted to be a magic wand and that may have moved the shifter hole - no idea but if I can find one I'll get it patched in.

Updated pic. I had to move the coil but fortunately I had ONE of the longer head studs used to mount the bracket so I had a good way to hang the coil. That may not be the final resting place as I may come up with a different location before I'm thru. It will be fun to see if I can get all this misc BS to work properly!
Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on November 30, 2022, 02:39:51 PM
Well, I'm mostly done with the Moke for this round anyway.....

This trip, I replaced the genny with an alternator, which meant I had to build a wiring harness and move a few wires off the regulator and change them around....but that's done. I needed some screw in 2.2 watt bulbs (those things are a PITA to screw in too!) especially for the ign light, which is what gets the alternator to start producing juice and a local Mini buddy had some so I could carry on.

I pulled the speedo as the one Clancy had was toast - I got one from a Moke from Michael Playle - and took it apart to clean the glass and dials that were dusty/dirty. Once back together I tested both the fuel gauge and speedo to see if they worked (they did - yay!) and installed it in the Moke dash. Those of you who have had a Moke dash pod off know what a PITA that can be too. In this case the speedo was held in the dash with two 10-32 allen head bolts, and there is no room to get an allen wrench in and turn more than one flat at a time, it was tedious so I decided when I put the new one back in I would go another way. The new speedo had speed nuts for phillips head screws, and there was no way I was going to try and do those, so I took the speed nuts out and that left a nice 1/4" hole, so I used nuts and bolts - easy to get a gear wrench on those to tighten them.

Once everything was ready I put the dash back onto the firewall, and turned on the key - no ign light!!?!? I double and triple checked all my wiring and could not find a fault, so the dash came out again. Just to make sure, I tested the "new" light bulb and SOB the damn thing was bad! So, then I tested all the bulbs and found 4 of the 6 OK, put a new bulb in the ign light holder once again and buttoned it all up and re - attached to the firewall and Viola! it works! I also noticed the fuel gauge worked correctly too, now that IT was wired right, so double Yay!

Now I need to drive it so I can see how far off it is. my guess is the gearbox for the car it came out of had a 3:44 diff and I'm guessing the engine in the Moke is out of an AA, which probably had a 3:65, so I expect it to be off some, we'll see.  Friday it's supposed to be in the 50's again so that's the only day I'll get to drive it....(just checked the forecast - 35 today, 60 on Friday, 35 on Sat!)

A few other jobs included a tune up, valve adjustment, points and timing, clean and gap the plugs and replace the rocker cover gasket.

WillieB is sending me a shift boot so I can replace the one that lasted about 2 months - I hope his is better quality than the one I bought!

I also made a seal for his gas cap out of a spare piece of buna I had laying around.

More as it happens!

Title: Re: Clancy's Moke Restoration
Post by: MiniDave on December 04, 2022, 02:07:48 PM
Clancy came to load up the Moke yesterday morning, of course it was 19* out so it wouldn't start. He has a really small battery in the car and I think it just doesn't have enough cold cranking power for winter weather, so we wound up pushing it onto the trailer, which is no biggy since it's so light and we had 3 people.

I still have a few things to do to this car on the next round - the handbrake doesn't work. I thought it didn't have a button to push so I asked Willie B to make one for me and when I went to install it I found it did have one, it was just pushed so far into the handle you couldn't see it!

I also need to replace the leaking axle seals and it's still sitting a bit low on the left front side, so I need to put another turn into the adjuster on that corner, I guess. It also looks like it's sitting a bit low on the left rear, but I don't have any more old hilo adjusters I can throw at it. I'd hate to buy a whole set for it when I really only need one.

Don and I drove it on Sat to make sure everything was working correctly and we found the speedo to be off 5 mph fast at 35 mph. since that's about the speed he usually drives it, it will be easy to remember that. He said don't tell his "hot rod" son, so maybe he'll not speed in it so much!

His combo oil pressure/water temp gauge leaks oil internally and drips oil on your feet, and the temp part is off too so we're going to replace it. I'm going to suggest he gets one of those SS braided line kits for it too.

If I can get those things sorted, it should pretty well be ready for the upcoming racing season. Clancy loves taking it to the track, he says it's a real chick magnet!  :grin: