Due to arrive soon

[cstudep]

Should be a pretty slick setup once you get it done! If you ever venture west of the Rockies the extended range will be quite welcome, you can go for a long way and never see a fuel stop.  77.gif

[94touring]

I would like to check out the far northwest. One of the only areas I haven't been.  It will certainly be a stress relief not planning fuel stops in unknown territory.

[cstudep]

What about something like this? I have replaced one like this before on a modern in tank fuel pump.

On the one I replaced the body of the sensor snapped into a little clip down low on the fuel pump body. This clip grounded the sensor body to the pump and the vehicle (verified by metering continuity between the sensor body and vehicle ground). The wire coming out of it was the "signal" wire.

I do not believe these work off of any sort of PSI but just sense when the fuel falls below the height of wherever the sensor resides in the tank. If you look at the pictures you can see the holes that let fuel pass through the sensor. I never put much thought into the one I replaced, perhaps there may even be a little float or something inside it.

https://www.stang-aholics.com/i-31642576-67-73-mustang-fuel-sending-unit-low-fuel-warning-sensor-mounts-on-fuel-sender.html

[94touring]

Saw some of those on ebay for bikes but couldn't figure out how it worked by the pics.

[cstudep]

They are all a little different but you can see similar mounted on the bottom pump, just to the right of the float.

The one I replaced was a fairly deep tank on a SUV so the in tank pump/float was just straight down, the sender for the low fuel light just clipped on near the bottom of the pump bracket. It did not have the complicated offset bracket like that picture shows, I could not find a good pic of one like I replaced, but you get the idea I am sure.

I believe the only real requirement is that the sensor is vertical, so it can drain out. Well that and it has to be near the bottom of the tank to be of much use for a low fuel indicator LOL.

[94touring]

Leaving for work today and the tank metal gets in tomorrow.  I'm ready to at least get the aux tank welded up till I drop the motor out to work on the main tank.  I looked on the gauge cluster and I have a spot for a warning light that's not being used.  I have spare bulb holders for the cluster so will probably use that for something. Perhaps a low fuel light for the main tank depending how accurate I can dial in the sender that's in there now.  Otherwise it will be part of the aux tank low pressure/pump shutoff system.

Edit:  sitting at the airport went ahead and ordered a 2.5 to 4psi pump and an adjustable fuel pressure warning kit that's adjustable from 2psi to 7.  Figured at 2.5psi at its lowest the pump shouldn't trip the 2psi setting on the sensor.

[cstudep]

Sounds like a plan at least, only one way to find out if it actually works  4.gif

[94touring]

I also just found adjustable height sending units in the correct ohms.  If my sending unit doesn't work well with the new tank height that's an option.

[94touring]

Apparently I have an all metal European dash that the US baywindows did not get, rather they had a foam covered dash.  I'm seeing where the metal dashes are painted the body color.  Something to consider I suppose.  Maybe a little more appealing than the dull faded black that's in there now. 

[cstudep]

That does look nice, I would definitely go "body color" if you plan to paint it. Being a lighter color could only help with interior temp as well in the summer sun.

[BruceK]

But, it the horizontal portion is not black it will reflect light back up into the inside of windshield, right?

[94touring]

I'm not sure.  The top piece in that photo is the black foam trim piece, then behind that is another metal piece which is also black, or faded black in my case.  That could potentially make a glare on the glass.  I'll likely respray it in a flat black to clean it up. 

[94touring]

Not home but I had Jen take a pic to verify.  FF pads came in.  I think I found some GG pads too, but won't know till they get here if they match what was online. I'm thinking some 60-0 before and after test will have to be made.

[cstudep]

Yes some 60-0 comparisons would be cool. Just to see what kind of difference, if any, it would make. Maybe shoot them with an infrared thermometer as well before and after to get an idea of any temp advantages/disadvantages between the two.

[94touring]

GG pads arrived. These I wasn't certain of looking online at the pics, so I'm happy they're what I wanted.  So I'll have a variety to test to see if anything is noticeable.

[MiniDave]

Is there a big price difference between FE, FF and GG pads?

[94touring]

Lets see what I find here.  These are semi metallic. 

EE:  $26-32 on average with one $39 for same part number
FE: $25-32 and somewhat harder to find
FF: Bosch $35 with $28-38 on average in various brands and a few in the $50s for same part numbers and Brembo.  FF's are plentiful in comparison. 
GG: Zimmerman from Germany $36 and only brand that appears to have them.  Germany has more GG's for highway speeds I'm told.   

Offbrand/knockoffs FF's $15-25

Several unknown coding with prices all over the map from $15-$50

[MiniDave]

I bought Zimmerman rotors for my last Audi, but ran Akebono ceramic pads....no idea what rating they had but they stopped well, didn't wear and did not leave nasty black dust on the front wheels like the originals did.

I don't know what pads the new(er) Audi is using but it leaves nasty brown dust all over the front wheels.

Not enough difference between those prices to be worthwhile....

[94touring]

Maybe it's just an organic pad? 

They all cost about the same.  I just want the ones that stop the best. 

[94touring]

Looks like my xmas present is ready.

[MiniDave]

Did they send you a video of it running?

I'll be interested to see how they crate and ship it.

I might be sending the auto trans to California via Fastenal's company truck, it's usually about 1/2 the cost of regular LTL shipping, although the shipping time can vary.

[94touring]

No videos but whatever crate is going direct to my shop.  Not sure how much these weigh as a long block, but the winch will lug it inside regardless.  All the ancillary items in the photo stay with him, except for the twin IDF 40 carbs. 

[94touring]

Today I was able to change out all the crusty black door handles for chrome with keys so they'd lock.  I also bought a MPH speedo, which I meticulously rolled back to zero, cleaned up,  positioned carefully into place, and then lost grip, juggled it, tried to catch with my foot, and busted onto the concrete floor.  50.gif  57.gif

[BruceK]

Ouch!   Just think how careful you're going to be with the next one!  ;D

[94touring]

It was one of those shop moments I wanted to shed a tear.  Ordered another for $80.  I'll just try to forget it happened.  The door handles are rather nice. I bought a new inner mechanism for the side barn doors, which didn't seem to function properly at first. So I disassembled the old and new to figure it out. The old one was very messed up internally, wouldn't lock, hard to close, internal springs all screwed up ,and turning the handle was difficult. After studying the internals it made more sense.  They had affixed a latch on the adjoining door in such a way to accept the old messed up mechanism. Now I have a door that closes effortlessly and locks properly.  Also on the list of small pointless items was a seat belt extension for the passenger side since the arrangement left it rather tight even for the skinniest of people.  I added a shift rod extension since stock sits low and you tend to grind your knuckles into the hand brake.  With that I installed an ivory knob that's small and perhaps more eye appealing than the stock knob. With the new shift linkage bushings and extra shift height it's improved tremendously over what it initially had.  To top it all off I bought some vintage/retro stereo head to fill the stereo blank.  I'll get around to wiring it up eventually. The dash has a spot for speakers come to find out.