Ball Joints - A couple quick questions...

[chhcope]

Hello - I recently bought a 1996 JDM SPi with worn ball joints and am in the process of replacing them.  I've just been working in the evenings as I have time (not much time available with 3 kids and a small business to run but I do what I can).  Things have gone pretty well, I have the driver side hub out and am ready to install the new ball joints but have a few questions:

1. I want to clean the hub in my parts washer then repack and install the wheel bearings, install new seals, and carry on with replacing the ball joints or should I just buy new wheel bearings?  I have no idea how long ago they were replaced.  The wheel bearings seem fine and I'd rather not press them out and spend the $100 on a new set. 

2. The steering rack boots are shot and I'll be replacing them as well but I wonder if there is any type of grease I should put under there before I seal up the boot. 

Thanks,

Harrison

[MiniDave]

You can use the wheel bearings if they're not worn ie: play in the hub.

I don't pack the rack boots with anything.

I usually buy my parts from MiniSpares in England.

[94touring]

I'd just repack the bearings.  I've never put anything on the steering rack either.  Glad you're getting those ball joints done!

[MiniDave]

Just be sure you put the bearings back where they came from, don't mix them up! 

Do you know how to shim the ball joints? If you haven't ordered replacements yet, they make some now that you don't have to shim - they're a bit spendy but they're the easy button!

[chhcope]

Great, thanks for the input guys. And for taking a look at my mini, 94touring- really appreciate it. 

I'll drop the hub in the parts washer and get it cleaned/rebuilt while I wait for the new seals to come in from MiniSpares.  Can't wait to get back on the road.

MiniDave - Thanks for the tip on not mixing up the bearings, noted. 

I did order the "maintenance free" ball joints but my socket won't fit over the boot so I'm not sure how to torque them down, any thoughts on that?  My current solution is to use a crowfoot wrench @ 90 degrees...  I also have a set of the "normal" ball joints with shims so I may just use those instead if the crowfoot wrench doesn't work.  Seemed like a lot more work with the shims but then I was surprised the boot was so big.  Have you used these easy button ball joints?

Happy New Year, btw.

Harrison

[MPlayle]

I have used the "easy button" ball joints.  I seem to recall the instructions for them recommended carefully removing the boot in order to torque them during installation.  I recall the retaining "spring" being a pain-in-the-***, so I replaced it with a thin zip-tie when I reinstalled the boots.

[MiniDave]

I have a box end wrench that I use, it fits over the boot and down onto the nut. I couldn't get my socket to work either. I like those new ball joints because they don't require shims....just tighten and bend over the lock tab.

[Willie_B]

I removed the boots when I did mine. A bit fiddley to get back on but not hard.

[chhcope]

So I finally found a few hours to get back to work on the Mini and made some good progress but I am stuck and I think I am going to order some parts.  I went to put everything back together and the hub won't go all the way on to the axle.  I narrowed the issue to the spacer, there is a slight lip on the inner edge that is keeping it from going back on all the way.  I think I am just going to order a new wheel bearing set at this point, unless it isn't a big deal to try to file that lip down since it's just the spacer- but I think I really just want to replace it all so I know it's done and new. 

In other news, I was able to remove the boots without issue. I torqued everything down and then put them back on without damaging anything, no sweat.  Thanks or the feedback on that.

[MiniDave]

You could sand that off, it doesn't do anything. But I would be curious to know what caused it in the first place.

[chhcope]

Agreed, should I be concerned?  See attached.

[MiniDave]

Nah....as long as it tightens up properly I'd run it. You could take a scotch brite pad on it to clean it up more, but I don't think I would even do that.

Remember, these cars are lucky to get 1000 miles a year anymore.....

[94touring]

It's been a bit too long since I've rebuilt a front end for me to remember how the bearing races are supposed to fit on those outer CVs.  Snug I'm guessing?  If that's the case and they're loose, or have shown signs of spinning, there's an easy solution. I just used this stuff on an axle spindle that had worn down similar to what your picture is showing, allowing the bearing race to spin when it should be stationary.  Now that being said, I had to remove a bearing off a spindle after applying this stuff and boy is it tougher than hell.  It took getting the bearing race to a red glow with a torch to break the bond, even then it didn't just slide off.  OR, just buy new stuff if you feel the need to replace them.  I lost a boot on our last spirited mini drive and toasted the bearings with sand.  Have yet to replace it.

[MiniDave]

The spacer is not tight on the spindle, it's compressed between the inner races as you tighten the outer nut. The inner races are held by the same thing so they don't spin, the outer races are a press fit in the hub.

[chhcope]

Thought I'd give an update since it's been a while.  I sanded that lip off and everything went together perfectly.  Thanks for the help.  I still need to get the passenger side done but took a test drive to see if I could tell a difference in the clunks/noise from side to side; there is a noticeable difference but there's still a lot of noise.  I will get the other side done soon, spring break is this week so hopefully I'll have the time.  I'll try to post some pics of the ball joint boot removal/reinstall process when I do the other side for future reference. 

In my search for other clunks I took some video of the engine movement while driving/shifting and will post that in another thread.

https://www.restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?topic=2820.0