My Engine Has Got Some Moves

[chhcope]

So I have a lot of clunks and bangs from the engine bay area while driving and have been trying to track them down for a while.  I suspect my engine mounts have gone so I mounted a GoPro to the windshield over the engine and went for a drive to see what was going on.  It seems like the engine is moving a lot and I wonder if anyone can provide some insight into how normal this movement is.

This is a 1996 SPi Automatic.

- Driving through the gears.  My transmission flares and doesn't shift well so I have to "manually" shift and let off the gas a little when I shift.

- Shifting through the gears while sitting in my garage.  I shift from P to R to N to 1 then back to N to R and then P.

[MiniDave]

Yes, looks like a failed motor mount to me too. Be aware the automatic motor mounts are different than the manuals, be sure to get the right ones.

For the transmission flaring between shifts, try using 10W40 motorcycle oil, MA2....be sure to order the correct oil filter too....it's different on the auto gearboxes

[94touring]

Yep motor mounts need replaced.  If they're the kind with the pre threaded inserts just take your time aligning the bolts.  I usually cuss them when it starts to cross thread. 

[MiniDave]

I don't think the automatic mounts come with the threaded inserts......

https://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Stabilisers_mounts/Engine_Mounts/22A917.aspx?100202&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/engine%20mount.aspx|Back%20to%20search

https://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Block/22A1018.aspx?1001&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/engine%20mount.aspx|Back%20to%20search

You'll also want to check the steady bar rubbers.
https://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Stabilisers_mounts/Stabilisers/SBK2.aspx?100201&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/engine%20steady.aspx|Back%20to%20search

I would just replace them all, but the one on the torque converter end is not fun.

https://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Filters/Oil/MSF104.aspx?1203&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/oil%20filter.aspx|Back%20to%20search

also....oil filter.....   

[chhcope]

Thanks for the input and for the links. I plan to place a MiniSpares order tomorrow. Anything else I should get to replace while I am working on the motor mounts? Seems like the car has a lot of "deferred maintenance" that I have been catching up on so if there are any other common wear parts that are made accessible while doing the mounts I will probably replace them as a preventative measure.

I replaced the steady bar rubbers a couple months ago but used these: http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Stabilisers_mounts/Stabilisers/KKF101320.aspx?100201&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/Engine%20steady.aspx|Back%20to%20search

I have done 3 oil changes in the nearly year I've owned it with 10w40 MA2 oil and it didn't change the transmission issue but there are so many other issues going on so I've been tackling them before digging into that. The filter is a bear to get off, I have to loosen the A/C to alternator belt just to have enough room to back the filter housing bolt out.

I really appreciate the help, I'd be lost without you guys!

[MiniDave]

I use those stabilizer bar bushes too, but they do give a tiny bit of play that the others don't.....FWIW.

Too bad the oil changes didn't help, since this gearbox is all mechanical and there are no electronical bits that can fail and cause issues, unlike modern transmissions. The only guy I know of who's rebuilding them is in California.....so if it shifts OK manually I guess that's how I would drive it from here on. The band adjustments are doable in the car but I can't give you any guidance on how to set them.....and if it's shifting OK manually I'm not sure that would help.

As to other maintenance, let your wallet be the guide!   

There's always stuff  to be done.....have a look at the CV boots, ball joints for looseness, worn suspension bushings, torn steering boots etc.

Doo you have a lift or are you working on jack stands?

[94touring]

You could always convert to rod change I suppose unless you really want the automatic

[chhcope]

I am working on jack stands- btw... I haven't been really happy with the process of jacking it up and putting it on stands.  There doesn't seem to be a lot of room to get things positioned well.  But I'm used to working on SUVs, so what do I know!

I guess I'm not familiar with the auto to rod change conversion...  Are you saying it's possible to convert this to a manual gearbox?  Seems complicated?

[94touring]

It would be some work and aside from the transmission, you'd need the rod change itself.  Plus the subframes are different where it mounts from the engine. Can't recall if there's brackets to adjust for that.

[MiniDave]

Actually, to keep the same engine but go to a manual the oil pressure relief valve is done differently and you also have to change the oil pump and add a specialty made spacer. Those parts are available, but there's some machine work needed too. And of course you'd need an entire clutch assembly and the correct drop gears and housing. You would also need the clutch pedal assembly and a master cylinder/lines/slave cylinder. Don't let anyone tell you it's easy.

 The easy button is just to buy a complete 1275 engine and transmission if you want to go manual.....subframe and all would be the best bet - maybe from someone who did a Honda swap or something.

They're not plentiful, most are changing from a 998 auto to a Honda.

To lift the car, the best place is at the front where the tie bar is attached to the subframe, on the bracket, not the bar itself. If you use the tie bar it will bend and screw up your alignment. Lift it enough to get the jack stand under the subframe,  then do the same on the other side. A lot of people just put the jack under the sump (don't do this) and that's probably what tore your motor mount - they're designed for compression, not extension.

[94touring]

Yeah buying a whole donor setup would be the way to go.  I probably have a spare clutch pedal assembly out here. I technically have a 1275 with trans too, but the motor needs rebuilt.  But, this is really just if you can't get the auto sorted and working properly.  I've driven a few autos and they aren't really my cup of tea in a mini.

[chhcope]

I realize it's been a while but wanted to give an update. I have removed the radiator, fan, brake booster, A/C condenser and bracket, and engine steady to get access to the mounts and managed to get the torque converter mount out and the new mount installed on the torque converter and lined up on the subframe but have not been able to get the bolts through the subframe yet. I'm planning to have my wife or one of the kids use their little hands and hopefully get them fed through the holes. This has been quite the ordeal and I'll be glad when it's over, I'm taking videos as I go and notes for the next time. Any tips on getting those bolts through would be appreciated. I think I'm gonna order a silicon hose set while I've got the radiator out. It is really amazing how little space there is between the torque converter and subframe.

[chhcope]

Wire trick for the win.  On to the radiator side!

[94touring]

I watched in suspense wondering if the wire would allow enough room for the bolt.

[MiniDave]

Does anyone do it the other way around? Put the bolt thru the hole from the outside?

Since MiniSpares started selling the mounts with the nut built in, that's how I sometimes do it - bolt from the outside, nuts inside. Sometimes it can be a challenge getting the nut on, but a set of long needle nose pliers helps.

I'm not sure it matters overall, as long as it's bolted down tight. I have never had one come loose once it was tightened properly.

[chhcope]

The reason I went the other way is two fold:

1. They don't make the mounts with the nut built in for the automatic.
2. If the bolt were to come out and it was bolt-outside, the engine would just be sitting on the subframe sliding around, but if it were bolt on the inside I think the bolt would still be sitting in the hole and you could just stick a new nut on it.

Like you say, it probably doesn't matter cause it's so unlikely that it would come out at all, but that was my thinking. 

I couldn't believe it worked so well, I was legitimately surprised when that bolt slotted through.  The whole process for getting that bolt through took less than 7 minutes from start to finish.

[chhcope]

Got the other side in and the engine steady in this evening and it feels much better. I'll try to get it all back together this weekend. Still have to finish the passenger side ball joints and wheel bearings but I have everything I need to get it wrapped up. Can't wait to get back on the road.

[chhcope]

Got it all back together and took it for a quick test drive.  Seems like it made things much better but there is still a nasty clunk in the driver (RH) front over bumps, almost under my feet it seems.  Not sure what to look for next...

I'll try to take another video of the engine movement for comparison and post it.  I was really hoping that would solve the clunk but it's definitely still there.  Much improved since replacing the ball joints, engine steady bushes, and engine mounts but there's something else wrong under there. 

[94touring]

Make sure the subframe bolts are tight, the bolts that are below your feet and mount it to the floor.