Stan's 78 mini restoration

Started by stan360, September 25, 2015, 08:58:48 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Spitz

You don't really need the special CV "splitter".  A long bar from the top resting on the edge of the CV, with a sharp blow will do it.

MPlayle

Which CV's - inner or outer?

I would leave the outers alone if possible.  The inners (if pot joint style) can either be separated in their halves - leaving the shell on the differential and putting a wrapper over each piece, or pried off the output shafts using a large flat-blade or small pry-bar to work them off.  I've always been able to just pry with a large flat-blade.

The ball-joint splitter from Harbor Freight works just fine.


MiniDave

Stan, how are you going to get the car down to Dan's shop?
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

stan360

#28
Ok, I found a ball joint splitter tool for about $20....should do the trick.  I watched a couple you tube videos on using a screwdriver / pickle fork and a pry bar to loosen CV inner.  I just wasn't thrilled with paying  $60 or $70 for a special tool for this, even though I believe in the right tool for the job.   


Dave,  I have not figured out a trailer plan just yet.  I have been searching craigslist for a 5 or 6 '  x 10'  utility trailer.  If I could just buy one, I would have it for return trip  and and anything else I could think of......Not much luck there, and tractor supply still wants a bit of money for one new so I have held off.

I have a mini van , so I may be able to rent that big u haul car hauler  hog and haul the  shell and still be ok on weight.  Not sure on bottom clearance with the inside rails on the trailer.  Not sure they will rent me the trailer when they see a mini van, even though I would be hauling a 450 pound shell..    The 2 front wheel drag along they have seems to be a bad idea for hauling empty shell and the ramps look as if they could bang the hell out of the sills.


MiniDave

#29
In order to get the inner joint out of the transmission, I always found it easier to release one of the ball joints (usually the bottom one) and the steering knuckle joint, then you can swing the hub out far enough to slide the pot joint out of the transmission - be sure to drain all the oil first....If you were just pulling the engine and putting it right back then you can just release the inner joint boot and slide the joint apart like Mplayle says, then cover everything with plastic bags, but to make the car roll-able that's not a good way to do it...those long axle shafts will bang around as you move the car. You can tie them up, but again....not the best way.

I think I can arrange it with the local British car club for you to use their trailer, I just used it to move Rusty down to Dan's shop and haul Buzz back, it tows nicely and I don't think it's too heavy to use behind your van. Let me know when you're getting close to needing it so I can make a few calls for you. The trailer is under 2K (I know this because in Ks under 2K you don't need to lic it - and it's not licensed.  ;D ) It's parked in north west Lawrence so it's easy access for you.

I'm not sure UHaul will rent you one of their car haulers to tow with your van, but a phone call will answer that, and it's an inexpensive way to do it. As long as your car still rolls you'll be good to go either way.

I would disassemble your axles and install just the outer stub back in the hub, that way you can roll it. For that matter, if you take the engine out and install those stubs you can borrow my flat tow bar and haul it that way, it will roll easily behind your van and you don't have to rent anything. I even have magnetic tow lights to mount on the car....just stick them to the rear parcel shelf.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

stan360

#30
Borrowing a trailer could be great. I did meet Terry from the club in a store parking lot when I was out driving a coule months ago .  But I haven't been able to get out of work to go to any meetings and so I don't anyone in the club yet.   

The tow bar could be a great and easy way  to haul it down there if you don't mind me borrowing that.  When  the car is nice  and newly painted I could  then worry about a trailer to haul it back with the added protection to keep it up off the road.

MiniDave

The only things you'll need to do is make sure the bearings are good, the stubaxles are installed and the nut tightened to 160ft lbs or so, the cotter pin is in and so on. Hook the ball joints and steering knuckles back up, leave the key in the ignition in the "on" position so the wheel won't lock and so on.

Then you'll need to replace the front mount bolts with 1/2" (the standard bolts are 3/8")and drill out the mount holes to 1/2", then it's ready to go. The lights are magnetic and use the standard 4 wire flat connector.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

stan360

#32
I was able to remove the instrument pod/ dash switches and most of the firewall items and pulled the wiring harnesses... and took out the  exhaust and battery cable from under the car today.

I found a nest inside the instrument pod.....those 3 dried up micro mice in the heater didn't venture far from their home. 

I thought my temp. gauge bulb was burned out, but apparently it was missing. I also found some ugly rust up in the inner fender driver side when I removed the vent tubing.

stan360

#33
What is the grey material around the edged of the instrument pod.....door harware , air vent panels.   Looks to be any  place to prevent an air leak or rattle?  It looks just like modeling clay.

94touring

I see that grey stuff a lot. I think they used it to prevent rattling.

MiniDave

Finding rust in unexpected areas is part of the Mini experience!   ;D
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

stan360

#36
I did some digging online this morning and I am wondering if that grey putty was   Dum Dum or similar brand in a tape roll or strips. I guess dum dumb sealant / putty is no longer produced, but I read a post where 3M strip caulk was mentioned as a substitute

94touring

I've never given it much thought.  I know I've never put new putty in. 

MiniDave

Stan, when are you scheduled in to Dan's shop?
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

stan360

Well, I'm almost ready to haul it  down there so that Dan can have the car for this spring.   

Spitz

I imagine the "putty" was used around the edge of the pod to limit air/water/sound ingress to the cabin

stan360

Yes, I found it there and also quite a bit of it around the door hardware.  It's probably carcinogenic and here I have been rolling it up and collecting it in case I want to reuse or replace with a like material.   

skmini

The grey putty looks and feels to me like the butyl putty tape used in RVs for sealing:

http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/caulks-sealants/97741.htm

I've got half a roll leftover from a fiberglass trailer restoration I did a couple of years ago that I will likely use when I put my mini back together.

jeff10049

I was going to say it looks like tacky tape a brand of butyl tape we use on RV's.
The tacky tape branded stuff is the easiest to work with if you go with that.

Jeff

stan360

Yeah I think that RV tape looks like a suitable replacement. Its pretty cheap too. I'll pick up a roll just in case  I decide to put that stuff back on the car.

stan360

I pulled the engine today.  Tomorrow I will strip the brake lines and some other small items.  I still have to figure out how to get some of the parts out of the door interiors and it will be on its way to Dan pretty soon .   

94touring

Might as well remove your vin plates too! 

Spitz

Are you staying with the automatic?

stan360

I have that on the list of smalls for today Dan....I am drilling out the rivets on those plates  and that ashtray thing  as well.   

I am planning on converting  this to a manual trans.  Spitz.  J

MiniDave

Wow, that's a lot of work (and parts) needed.......

Manual trans uses a slightly different subframe, if you go that route can I have your old one?
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad