MINI Woes

[Mudhen]

How many miles on your car now?

I think I may have found the issue with that rotor - when I was putting the new one on it was hitting the edge of the carrier a little bit.  Wonder if it was the last time I'd replaced the rotors - 80k miles ago.  I buzzed off the rust scale on the hub so the new rotor would sit flush and cleaned up the edges of the carrier with a file and it now has a little breathing room.

You think THIS is a project...wait'll I finally update my build thread about the wings...  22.gif

[Mudhen]

So this was as deep as I had to go - spindle/knuckle finally out:


Added to the junk pile.  Good f'ing riddance:


Used one goes in - I kept the original patina so it wouldn't look out of place.


I never thought I would say I was happy to have a nut on my knuckle (ended up drilling out both sides and upgrading to nut/bolts for the pinch bolts):


Complete!  I left the junkyard part # on it as a constant reminder to myself of good times.  11.gif


Final pile of junk for this job.


Back outside and took it for a test ride and tried to follow the 30-0 and 70-30 bed-in procedure for the Mintex pads.  All seems ok - just need an alignment!


Now Coop is asking for help on his...not again... ::)


MP gets the MVP on this one - using the sawzall and using a ratchet strap to pull the control arm into place were life savers.  Was a killer trying to get the control arm back into place but up onto the inner balljoint all at the same time...ratchet strap made all the difference.  4.gif

Back to the '80!  After the LR3 gets new control arms, that is.  50.gif

[94touring]

Hopefully I don't have that much work involved on mine any time soon.  She's about to hit 100K and up for sale once I get some things in order, like my truck running.

[Mudhen]

Hate to bump up a thread of bad memories [for me]...but was wondering if any of you guys had any idea what would be causing this:



It's the same corner that the rotor that was completely trashed was on - bad caliper?  Can't imagine what else would cause it, although I think it's the same side on the rear that the handbrake cable is broken on...

Thanks

[94touring]

Am I looking at the side of a tire that's worn down unevenly?

[Mudhen]

Am I looking at the side of a tire that's worn down unevenly?

Ok, I need you to focus here... ;D

It probably is worn a little unevenly, but not as bad as that pic makes it look.  I'm sure with all those suspension pieces worn way past their expiration date the alignment was shot (plus the tires are due to be replaced, anyway).

I think I'm going to sell those rims and just go with the black steelies the snows are on.  I like the black on the white car...

[Mudhen]

Knew I had a thread going where I whined about working on my MINI...

How about this sludge?



The left side of the oil cooler must be 3/4 full.  Suppose I should have changed my coolant once or twice in 10 years/200k miles?   :-[

On a good note, though, I got my short shift kit installed finally.  Also putting in new shift cables while everything is open.



On the transmission front I received the LSD, clutch, etc, so that can start going back together as well.

Couple fun pics from that:

The guts:


Old diff:


Score on the input shaft?  Not sure if it's supposed to be there or not - the guys at minigearboxes.co.uk were very helpful...in the end they suggested tearing it down.  Ah, ok...maybe not today...


Hopefully start rebuilding the tranny this weekend!

[MtyMous]

Looks like fun. Any thoughts of upgrading the guts while you're in there? Do these cars even "need" an upgrade if you're not throwing in power adders?

[MiniDave]

The Getrag transmission is very robust, I've seen guys running 400hp thru a stock box with no issues.

[Mudhen]

Looks like fun. Any thoughts of upgrading the guts while you're in there? Do these cars even "need" an upgrade if you're not throwing in power adders?

I want to do this low ratio crown wheel/pinion so bad I can taste it:



http://www.minisport2.com/mini-parts/info_FDRCG14.html

If I hadn't just dumped $2k into it I'd jump on it.  Can't imagine how it would jump off the line with that.  Maybe next winter.

Not sure I'm ready for a dog box, but MiniSport has a Quaife setup as well:

http://www.minisport2.com/mini-parts/info_QKE34Z.html

[Mudhen]

Stupid question for you guys...when I was tearing this down it seemed like every electrical connector I'd touch, the clips would just shatter.  No matter how careful I was...guessing 10 years of living outside has just made them brittle.  But now what?

Last year when I was doing something on the control arm I snapped the clip off one of the traction control sensors (I think that's what it was, anyway).  I pushed it in as far as I could and put a zip tie around it...seemed to hold up ok.  What's the real official way to fix this stuff?  Do they sell new connectors to solder on or something?  Once I start really rallying it I'm guessing the old 'push-and-pray-it'll-just-stay' will lead to lots of DNFs...

Thx

[MiniDave]

I'd just use zip ties on 'em.....

But yes you can buy new connectors, you'll also need the special tools to remove and reinsert the pins but no need to change the wires if only the plastic is broken.

[Mudhen]

I'd just use zip ties on 'em.....

But yes you can buy new connectors, you'll also need the special tools to remove and reinsert the pins but no need to change the wires if only the plastic is broken.

Oh...gotcha.  I was thinking it would be more like a pigtail...I'd have to chop the old one off and solder the wires together.

Thanks MD!

[MiniDave]

As long as it's just the clip that's broken and not the body that holds the wires, a zip tie thru the wires and around the two halves of the connector will do the same job the clip did, unless this is something that will be unhooked and re-hooked many times, I'd just zip them together and not worry about it....myself. I'd use those really small, thin zip ties.....

[Mudhen]

unless this is something that will be unhooked and re-hooked many times

With the quality of my work I certainly wouldn't bet against that!

I called MINI and they said they do have some, but others would require a new wiring harness (the engine harness piece is $317).

Zip ties work!   4.gif

[MiniDave]

If you scroll down this page on Real OEM you can see repair kits for a number of different connectors.....


http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partgrp?id=MF73-USA-02-2007-R56-Mini-Cooper_S&mg=61

I don't know if any of these are the ones you need, but there are quite a variety available - at least on order.

[Mudhen]

If you scroll down this page on Real OEM you can see repair kits for a number of different connectors.....


http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partgrp?id=MF73-USA-02-2007-R56-Mini-Cooper_S&mg=61

I don't know if any of these are the ones you need, but there are quite a variety available - at least on order.

Cool, thanks.  So you can't buy off that site, its just parts diagrams?  I looked at the water pipe I just bought - paid $180 at the dealer and this shows $107...must be cost or something...

[stan360]

I have been replacing a few things on my Bmini and shop here quite a bit.  This site (even though it has lots of tuning upgrades ) also has a great number of factory parts at really good prices if you are wanting to use original parts / pieces....

https://www.ecstuning.com

It helps to pull the numbers from parts a diagram and just enter them in the ecs search , otherwise you could dig for a bit.  Especially with harness clips and things .  I am still looking for brake booster vaccuum line harness clip I broke....ended up hot melting it back together and so far so good.

http://parts.miniofkennesaw.com  -  has some good parts diagrams with numbers...also good prices and service.   

The pics and diagrams on the real OEM site are well organized,  great link ...WOW....thanks MiniDave for that info. 

[MiniDave]

I use Real OEM to look up part numbers, then just type the number into Google to look for the best price and stockist.

Another cool thing about RealOem, if you click on the part number it gives you a list of everything that part is used on....a lot of them are used thru out the entire BMW lineup....if your local MINI store doesn't stock it, the BMW dealer might.

[jeff10049]

Hey Pat have you replaced your fuel filter? I just ordered two one for the 2003 project and one for my 2004. I thought they were in they tank and they are but with a access hole under the back seat for changing them when you try to buy from a parts store they say its not replaceable but i used the referenced site realoem to look up the number then bought two on ebay for 20 each.

Jeff

[Mudhen]

Hey Pat have you replaced your fuel filter? I just ordered two one for the 2003 project and one for my 2004. I thought they were in they tank and they are but with a access hole under the back seat for changing them when you try to buy from a parts store they say its not replaceable but i used the referenced site realoem to look up the number then bought two on ebay for 20 each.

Jeff

NICE!

No, I have not - it's been on my to-do list for about a year...my car starts pretty hard when cold so hoping that might cure it.  $20 sounds like I might have to finally do it, let us know how the swap goes!

[Mudhen]

It's back together!



I was able to back it out of the garage and drive back in even...so it seems like the clutch and LSD install was a success.

Unfortunately...ya, suck.

When it started there was a lot of vibration - I did, however, install a poly lower engine mount and they say it will vibrate.  However - when it fired up the idle jumped up high, then it settled down but continued to hunt for the idle some.  I got out to look around to check for leaks, etc...and noticed this:



Not having ever looked at my exhaust in low light before I'm not sure that's right...I do remember punching out Cats on MGBs back in the day, though...  8.gif

The only thing I did to the exhaust was separate it just after the Cat when I was putting in the new shift cables, put a new flange gasket in and buttoned it up, that's it.

Guessing the hunting idle is a vacuum leak or something.  I had the throttle body and the hard pipe just after that off.  Guess I'll start tearing things apart tomorrow.  Front end service mode, here we come again!   50.gif

[Mudhen]

Actually, a quick Google and this sounds familiar:

http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/198830-cherry-red-exhaust-manifold.html

I had trouble getting my fingers in to push the hard plastic tubes into that pipe downstream from the throttle body - meant to grab a needlenose or something to make sure they were seated.  I can reach the far end of the black one and it feels totally loose...bugga!  Really hope I can get in there by just sliding the radiator forward [after frickin' taking the bumper cover and bumper off, of course].   11.gif

Onward and upward!

[Mudhen]

Ok, well...that was it.  One of the tubes was completely disconnected.  I just had to jack it up and take off the front wheels.  Oh, and take off the bumper cover...bumper...crashtubes...skidplate...top radiator hose...throttle body...intake hoses...and intercooler.  And then the thing was like, right there!  Easy peasy!   :(

While I was under the car I also switched back to the old lower engine mount.  There was so much vibration I was worried that I might have screwed up something with the clutch.  As soon as the old mount was in place, no vibration though.  Man - I can't imagine if I had a street car and put that thing on!!!

Now I need to get it through state inspection.  Will need to put the stock (airbag equipped)steering wheel and passenger airbag back in first.  Real rally cars in Maine obviously have friends with stickers since you can't mess with things like airbags, seatbelts, etc.  Cheaters! 

[jeff10049]

I did it,
It's easy take out the back seat just pull on it the filter is under the passenger  cover on the floor after the cover is off use something to tap the ring off the filter housing it has bumps to put a punch against lefty loose threads. Then pull up the filter housing some it don't come all the way out. The top twist about 1/4 turn the pulls off. To expose the filter mine was way nasty the cheap one I bought came with all orings and appears to be oem all numbers match the oe that's good if it was way shitty looking I was going to just run it a short time. My car was also starting shitty I'll let you know how it starts tomorrow. The shit on the rag next to it was just from a light wiping of the filter outside.