Looking for a good shop

[Dmulder]

I live in West Michigan and I'm looking to have the 998 motor in my 76 Austin mini completely redone.
I'm what I would call a car guy but a minor gear head. I can fix most things on my vehicle and I'm not afraid to tackle any job.
I'm certain I don't have the experience or expertise to tear down and rebuild my motor all on my own.
Wondering if there is anyone in the west Michigan or Michigan area who has knowledge or that you would recommend.

Thanks

[MiniDave]

You know, we all started somewhere....maybe this would be a good learning experience for you and your son to rebuild the motor in "his" car?

I know that both Bruce and I are self taught, the first engine I built was a 283 Chevy V-8 when I was 16. After I finished that one (and it ran!) I felt like I could tackle anything. So I did....

I rebuilt the engine in my first Mini, a 63 Cooper S 1071, in my garage, and the day after I first got it started I drove it from KC to Colorado Springs! Talk about a leap of faith!

I have a manual I would contribute to the effort, if you want to tackle it.

How many here have rebuilt the engine in their Mini? I know a couple of us have rebuilt the whole car in their garage.....

[Dmulder]

Dave - I think we will end up going this route. If you are willing to donate the manual that you have I'd greatly appreciate it.

[MiniDave]

Sure, PM me your address and I'll get it in the mail to you. I have more than one so either keep it or pass it along to someone else when you're thru with it. You will need to order the flywheel removing tool. Is this car a manual or automatic?

This is the best one you can buy, tho it says it's currently out of stock if you think you want to go with this one I would contact them and ask.
https://www.guess-works.com/Shop/Parts/display.htm?id=501

This one is next best and quite a bit cheaper......
https://www.minispares.com/ce1-dual-flywheel-puller-verto-and-pre-verto

Note there are two different sets of bolts depending on whether you're pulling a Verto or Pre-Verto clutch assembly. If you have an automatic it should work but you'll need different bolts for that. The Guessworks version has all the bolts included.

[Dmulder]

Dave - I have a manual transmission.
As I'm going through this process would it be okay for me to contact you when I have questions I can't answer myself?

[MiniDave]

Absolutely, tho I think the manual will be a great help. You also might see about a Haynes manual, Bruce credits his early success on his Mini rebuild to having a Haynes. I'll see if I have one of those too.......

One other tip, take masking tape and write on it where each wire end goes, then wrap that around that end. It will really help next spring when you go to put it together again!

Do you have heat in your garage, and plenty of light?

Have the machine shop do as much as they can, for example if these pistons have press in pins, have them do that for you, (although I think 998's have floating pins) also have them remove and install the cam bearings, and core plugs. If they have a hot tank, have them do the clean up of the block. It will come out much better. Be sure they remove the oil galley plugs too. Like I said, lots of tiny details to remember. If you can't find an automotive machine shop that can bore the small size of these pistons, try a motorcycle machine shop.....they're used to the smaller bore sizes. I think the 998's I did I wound up using an MC shop to bore the block, then took it to my automotive shop for the rest of the work.

Be sure to mark the rods 1-4 so they go back where they came from. If they measure the bores they'll tell you how far over the piston size needs to be, but you'd probably be safe at 40 over, then just have them bore to size.

Just find a good cylinder head shop and have them do the whole job on the head, new hardened seats, new guides, new valves and springs, and a good 3 angle valve job - plus surface the head. A good shop will also set the spring heights and shim the springs to the right tension. However, this isn't a race motor, so don't get carried away!  Do be sure to buy a new inner shaft for the rocker arms, yours will be worn, I guarantee it.....

Some small tips - if the exhaust hasn't been off in a long while it can be a real bugger to get apart, so rather than fighting it to get it off the head, just remove the studs on the head, then push it back out of the way to pull the motor. You will remove the intake, but don't bother to remove the carb from the manifold, just take it all off in one piece.

Rental shops frequently have an engine hoist you can rent, they have wheels on them and tow behind your car. The alternative is to look on Craigs or FB Marketplace and buy one, then you can always sell it again if you don't need it.

[Dmulder]

I believe I have the hard back Haynes manual.
I think k I know of 1 good motor cycle machine shop in the area but being a driver for UPS my co-workers might know of others.

[MiniDave]

998 bore is 2 5/8" IIRC, 1275 is 2 3/4".....so if their boring bar will go down to 2 5/8" they can bore it for you. My machine shop can only go just below 2 3/4", so they can do a 1275 but not a 998. But, you should ask around at whatever automotive machine shops that are in the area.

Used to be NAPA and most older parts stores did this kind of work, back in the day.

Now you're lucky to even find a machine shop still in business, let alone one that can bore, grind a crank and hot tank the block. I figure in Michigan you might have better luck, but you might have to go down to GR.

[MiniDave]

Here are three workshop manuals I have, you're welcome to any of them, tho the 1100 is not nearly as nice as the other two. They all show some use from greasy fingers on the edges.....both the blue on the left and the red one are in good shape inside, cover's are a little worn esp on the red one.