ARP / Mini head torque specs

[ADRay]

Googling has yielded conflicting info on what the torque specs are for ARP head bolts.

ARP says 25lbs, Haynes says 50, random forum posts say something in between.

What do the RM gurus say? Thanks

[MiniDave]

50, done in three lifts of 25, 35 and final of 50. Then start the engine, let it warm up to 140* or so, shut it off and torque it again. Back the nuts off 1/8 of a turn and pull forward again. Note how far the torque wrench turns on the retighten.

After it's been fully warmed up or even driven for a day, let it cool overnight and try to retorque it again, cold - back off 1/8 of a turn and see if it comes down any further. If it doesn't on the first couple of studs, don't do any more. If it does come down some go thru the rest the same way - back off 1/8 and pull down to torque again. That should do it.

Don't forget to use the ARP lube on the nuts, studs and on top of the washers under the nuts.

[94touring]

Copper or composite gasket?  45ft lbs is what I used on all but 25ft lbs on the head bolt on my 11 stud head.

[MiniDave]

ARP actually recommends 53 lbs, but I use 50 unless building a race motor.

And Dan is right about 25 if you use a bolt on the front 11th hole and not another 3/8 stud. Shoot, I don't think I'd go over 25 even with the bigger stud since the block material is somewhat thinner there

[94touring]

I went by what the minispares recommended for their stud kit.  If using a copper gasket it has an adhesive film that adheres to the block. You torque it down, fire up the engine dry, let it run a few minutes to get warm-hot, shut it off, let it cool completely, check torque again, fill with coolant, and you're good to go.  The dry run ensures the adhesive bonds to the bare surfaces, which means clean the hell out of it before you clamp it all together.

[ADRay]

Thanks all. going to need to torque them more when I get back from vacation. Also expecting an alternator waiting for me.