Standard remote shifter or fancy KAD one?

[bikewiz]

Multi pronged question.
Before I put this back in the car should I do any internal maintenance to it? I gave it a good clean externally. It always felt OK in regards to it's somewhat vague engagement, as in It doesn't miss-shift.
I plan on renewing the bushing at the rear and the rubber bobbins.
Is it worth the $$ to get a KAD short shift/quick shift?

[MiniDave]

A good clean and fresh grease is probably all it needs.

I don't like the short shifters, but a lot of guys do.......

[Scargo]

I just had installed in my '98 Sportspack a KAD Rod Change Quick Shift and I absolutely love it. In addition to shorter throws, gear selection feels much more precise and notchy. Also, gone is the "lift" to select reverse. Instead, the newer kits have a collar just below the shift knob that easily operates by pulling up using just two fingers.

I'm now contemplating getting a KAD Remote Quick Shift for my Mk2, but over the years I've heard mixed reviews on these. Any users care to comment on the remote model?

[94touring]

Hmmm might have to give that a try myself

[cstudep]

I just had installed in my '98 Sportspack a KAD Rod Change Quick Shift and I absolutely love it. In addition to shorter throws, gear selection feels much more precise and notchy. Also, gone is the "lift" to select reverse. Instead, the newer kits have a collar just below the shift knob that easily operates by pulling up using just two fingers.

I'm now contemplating getting a KAD Remote Quick Shift for my Mk2, but over the years I've heard mixed reviews on these. Any users care to comment on the remote model?

I don't know if it's the KAD Remote shift in mine or some other version as I have never had it apart to look. I have mixed feelings about it at times. It's definitely short, as in takes hardly any movement to get from gear to gear. Which is a problem when I have not driven it in a while as it's so short it's sometimes hard to find the gear. The one constant with it which is both a pain in the ass and a blessing, even with no sort of lock out, it's sometimes damn near impossible to get it into reverse. The good thing about it though, that also means it's damn near impossible to hit reverse instead of 4th.

Overall once I have been driving it for a while I don't mind it, but it's also been on there since I have owned the car so I have no other reference to compare it to.

[bikewiz]

So I opened up the rodchange box it was full of hard old ass grease and dirt. I plan on doing a full rebuild with new metal guide bushings for the front and rear rod and a new rear rubber isolated bushing. The bushings are available from McMaster for less than $2/ea. I think I'll also replace the reverse light switch it's pretty cheap on MS. I also plan on making a new cap for the rear where the rod is, as the original is MIA on mine.
With the yea's and nay's here and over on TMF I think I may get the MS shifter, a few recommend it and use it, one being the Aussie guy Spider, who based on most of his other content is pretty well informed, plus it's half the money of the KAD.

I'll report back when the car is on the road again, I just got an email from the engine builder that it's ready I just need to get down to him to pick it up.

[cstudep]

Well thanks to the fact that the guy I bought my car from kept absolutely every detailed receipt for everything he bought for the car, I was able to find the quick shift kit. Since he purchased it from Mini Spares and not Mini City like he did most of the parts, I was even able to look the part number up. They still have it for sale under the same part number, and it is indeed the KAD version. Oddly enough it is also almost the exact same price now as it was when he bought it in 2002.

https://www.minispares.com/c-22a1750-kad-gearlever-quickshift-for-remote-type-gearboxes

[bikewiz]

Well I got the rod change box apart and cleaned and found some significant wear on the front bushing and rod. Fortunately it didn't damage the casing. The rod is an available part so I've ordered a new one. I thought briefly about making my own from a piece of stainless but the new shift rod is only $25 and a piece of high strength precision ground stainless is twice that.

[MiniDave]

Wow, that was really worn....I'm surprised.....

There are two different lengths of those shift rods, be sure you get the right one.

[bikewiz]

Yes on the size 22 1/4 or 565mm.
It looks like Seven/MM has one on sale for less than the usual UK guys.

[bikewiz]

Apparently MS doesn't sell the rod UKN10023, Somerford does for $40, Minisport does for $16, 7ent/MM does for $25, but after getting just ridiculous shipping quotes of $42 to $47 for something that's basically a 1/2 x 22 1/4" steel rod. I mean really? 7ent could mail that wrapped in paper for $10!
With a bit of research the best I can figure based on a hardness file test, is the rod is just mild steel, something like 1018. I bought a precision ground tight tolerance stainless 17-4 1/2 x 24 rod for $59 from McMaster. The properties of 17-4 exceed 1018 by quite a bit so in addition to corrosion resistance it should be stronger and harder.
Even though it's stainless it machines really nice, as it just needs to be the correct length with a couple of holes it didn't take long to make.

[94touring]

Nice job!

[MiniDave]

Yeah, having the machinery to be able to do stuff like this really helps - I'm envious!

Shipping has gotten silly expensive, along with many other things....I think they are rapidly pricing me out of the hobby....

The disparity in prices for the parts has gotten really interesting, and it's a good idea to hit all of the sites before you press the "buy" button.

I think I would have just gone down to my local metal supermarket and bought a chunk of 1/2" rod, drilled the two holes and called it good. You did a much better job!

Oh, and for others who may be watching, I'm pretty sure you can just turn it around and swap ends, putting the worn end next to the gearbox and the "clean" end in the shifter housing....

Did you decide to buy the KAD shifter? I'll be curious to hear your thoughts on it once it's in and you're driving it again. We just got another 6" of snow, so mine won't be going out for another 10 days or more.....

[Willie_B]

How did you get the pins out and back in on the rods at the coupler in the shift housing?

[bikewiz]

How did you get the pins out and back in on the rods at the coupler in the shift housing?

If you turn the yoke around you can get at them pretty easy with a drift. Getting everything clean made a big difference in being able to see them and moving the bits around for better access.

Dave, I decided on the MS shifter, however I just got an email saying it's out of stock with no ETA, so I'll put the old one back in. Now that everything will be renewed I may not need it. We'll see.

It is nice having the mill and lathe I have a tendency to make stuff like this just to see how accurate I can make it, as you said I could have bought a piece of 1/2 rod and with a hacksaw and hand drill made one nearly as good as what was in there.

[bikewiz]

So while cleaning and dissembling the rod change I was wondering why the ends are open? They were full of sand and road grime. It has a hole in the bottom cover to maybe let water out but the rods and bushings are just getting covered with crap. I decided to use a sliding seal on the front and plug the back. I bought the sliding seal from McMaster and machined an aluminum plug for the back. This is what I came up with.

[MPlayle]

On one of my Minis, I took an extra one of the oil seals where the rod enters the transmission and used that on the front of the shifter housing.

I did not think of about the back, but you could probably do the same there.

[MiniDave]

I think there was a black plastic plug in the back, and a seal in the front....at least that's how mine is made. But, mine is a German model.....drawing is from Somerford Mini Parts.

I think you did the right thing, it should last longer and shift smoother too. How did you retain the plug in the back? Just a tight fit or a little silicone sealer to hold it in place?

[bikewiz]

I think there was a black plastic plug in the back, and a seal in the front....at least that's how mine is made. But, mine is a German model.....drawing is from Somerford Mini Parts.

I think you did the right thing, it should last longer and shift smoother too. How did you retain the plug in the back? Just a tight fit or a little silicone sealer to hold it in place?

I made it press fit. The hole is slightly tapered so it snugs up nice.
I had to scrape the oil/sand/road grime sludge out of the front hole, so I was pretty surprised there wasn't a seal.

[bikewiz]

On one of my Minis, I took an extra one of the oil seals where the rod enters the transmission and used that on the front of the shifter housing.

I did not think of about the back, but you could probably do the same there.

I tried the seal for the trans input but the ID is larger to accommodate the output. The sliding seal I got from McMaster is .50 ID 1.00 OD part number 1504N11 it cost $5.52 if anyone is interested.It's a nice press fit in my housing. There are plenty of oil seals in the same dimension but I think you want a shaft sliding seal aka rod wiper.