Amateur Restoration of a 1960 Morris Mini

[MiniDave]

I'll be home in a couple of days and can take some pics.....y'all will just have to be patient!   

[scalpel_ninja]

Getting ready to come out of hibernation on this project. So far the shell assembled with the subframes is sitting on jack stands. The front axles and hubs are disassembled; rear hubs will need to come off to replace the bearings.

I'm planning on dropping the engine in after I drill the front subframe for the sump guard and weld in captive nuts. Aside from attaching the speedo cable, are there any other tasks that really need to be done to make life easier? Such as installing the brake hard lines? Fuel line? Wiring? Or could those tasks be done after the engine is bolted in place?

[MiniDave]

You def want to install the brake hard line that goes across the front edge of the subframe, you can do it after it's in the car, but it's much easier to do it first.

[skmini]

If you're replacing the fuel or brake hard lines that go under the floor, they're easiest to do with the subframes out.  The hydraulic hard lines that go across the bulkhead are a lot easier without the engine in.  I built the front suspension and brake lines on the subframe off the car.  On Dave's advice I actually installed the complete drivetrain on the front subframe and then lowered the shell onto it.  That looked a bit sketchy with just a floor jack and jackstands lifting the shell: pictures on page 8 of my "79 Canadian Mini" thread.

I did the wiring after the engine was in, but before the interior.

[scalpel_ninja]

Finally got around to mounting the pedal box and brake & clutch cylinders.





Now with the tab that extends to where the steering column is, not sure how the drop down bracket is supposed mount?





Also, this throttle came off of the prior pedal box, not sure how it's supposed to mount now, or if it's even compatible?



I also pulled the rear bearings off, expecting to have the worst time with the inner race. However I was very fortunate in that everything slid off with the claw puller.

Left rear stub axle looks pretty good.


However, the right has a gouge in it. Not sure if it'll need to be replaced? The castle nut was also a different size, right hand threaded, and a different thread than the left? I thought the right was supposed to be reverse threaded?

[scalpel_ninja]

Since I have both back plates off, I figured I would replace the slave cylinders. The new one has this black metal stub on it next to the bleed valve. My plate doesn't have a hole for it. Can it just be removed? Also any tips/tricks as to how to get that massive circlip on without a special tool? Does the bend in the clip flare away or toward the plate?

[94touring]

Those are your rear wheel cylinders.  Probably fine to remove the roll pin, or drill a hole for it in the back plate. For the circlips I use needle nose pliers and or a combination of flat head screw drivers to push the old off. Its easy tapping the new on.

[cstudep]

Had I known that the version of the throttle pedal you had was also completely different I would have sent that along with the pedal box. It needs cleaned up a bit but is in working order. Good timing as it just got put into the dump trailer load of scrap I am hauling off Friday and it just happened to be sitting right on top LOL. Your Paddy Hopkirk pedal should mount up to it so I would pull that off and transfer it over. I will get it in the mail to you as soon as I can.

The other 2 pictures show how it mounts directly to the fire wall and is not connected to the pedal box at all, as well as how the column drop bracket mounts, or at least how it's mounted on my car.

[scalpel_ninja]

Had I known that the version of the throttle pedal you had was also completely different I would have sent that along with the pedal box. It needs cleaned up a bit but is in working order. Good timing as it just got put into the dump trailer load of scrap I am hauling off Friday and it just happened to be sitting right on top LOL. Your Paddy Hopkirk pedal should mount up to it so I would pull that off and transfer it over. I will get it in the mail to you as soon as I can.

The other 2 pictures show how it mounts directly to the fire wall and is not connected to the pedal box at all, as well as how the column drop bracket mounts, or at least how it's mounted on my car.

Great timing! Please let me know if I can send some money your way to cover shipping costs.

[MiniDave]

I would go look at some YouTube videos on the clips on the rear brake cylinders, that clip can be a royal PITA to put back on, but there are several "tricks" people have found to do it. My recollection is the flare goes out, but I'm not sure......like Dan says, just remove the roll pin, or drill the hole for it, either is OK.

[bikewiz]

Don't bother with the "rear wheel cylinder circlip tool" they don't really help, as Dan said needle nose and screw drivers.

[MiniDave]

I have one of those, and it does actually work, what no one told me is that you have to grease the heck out of it.....then it works OK

[scalpel_ninja]

Don't bother with the "rear wheel cylinder circlip tool" they don't really help, as Dan said needle nose and screw drivers.

I have one of those, and it does actually work, what  told me is that you have to grease the heck out of it.....then it works OK

Thanks! I'm going to attempt with basic tools first.

[scalpel_ninja]

Got the front springs and hi/los installed today. Interesting the shortest setting on the hi/lo was about the same height as the stock cone?

I also took out the old tie rods and lower control arms. Planning on putting in adjustable ones with offset bushings. I followed the instructions from Mini Spares and the pin does slide in easily. It just looks odd; is it supposed to be at an angle with the rubber flanges not parallel to the metal?




I also dry fitted the sump guard. Does it look to be about the right spot?

[94touring]

Those new cones will settle in.

[MiniDave]

Sump guard looks good....

[scalpel_ninja]

I think I'm pretty close to finally dropping in the engine.

I've installed the front subframe brake lines and opted for HEL Performance prefabricated lines.

The T where it splits front and back seems to be in an odd spot.  Not sure if the previous owner chose that. Also not sure if this will be too close to the exhaust?



This is how the front is looking for now. I have the speedo cable installed on the engine. Anything else that might need to be installed before lifting the engine in?






I also got these brackets.



I've seen them mounted to these head studs.



Any recommendations on which bolts to use? Any issues with releasing the tension on these bolts?

Again, any feedback from the classic Mini gurus here is very much appreciated!

[94touring]

That's where the T fitting goes. Cool looking lines 

Did you already install the steering rack?  Install the fuel line?  Those go in before the front subframe.

[scalpel_ninja]

That's where the T fitting goes. Cool looking lines 

Did you already install the steering rack?  Install the fuel line?  Those go in before the front subframe.

Thanks!

The steering rack is in place.

As for the fuel line, would it be a hard line or a flex line that goes through the front subframe into the pump?

Also for the lifting brackets, any problems if I loosen and bolt them to the head studs? Which particular two studs should I use?

[94touring]

I run a hard line as far as I can then at a convenient spot switch to rubber.  Make it a place you can get your hands on should you need to replace the rubber line someday.

For engine lifting, I use exhaust studs, alternator studs/bracket, and engine steady studs/bracket.   

[skmini]

As for the fuel line, would it be a hard line or a flex line that goes through the front subframe into the pump?

My brake lines are different, but here you can see where I routed the fuel hardline.  There ends up being a fairly short rubber hose from that to the pump, another short hose from the pump to another hard line that goes along the firewall to the carb.

[MiniDave]

Tell us more about those brake lines, they look interesting and I haven't seen those before. Where do you get them?

As for the lifting straps, the furthest ends would be the ones I'd use. Putting them there tilts the engine backwards so the final drive will go down into the hole first, assuming you're going to drop it in from the top. If you're going to pull it up from the bottom I would do as Dan says and use a light chain from the far left exhaust stud (as you face the engine) to the alternator bracket.

If you're going in from the top you'll need to have the radiator off, if coming up from below it's no problem.

Edit: took a better look at your pics, the subframe is already in place so you're going in from the top, so take the radiator off, and you def want to remove the distributor cap and wires. You might have an interference with the oil filter too as the engine is tipped over some as it goes in. I've had better luck with the chain from the exhaust to the alt bracket when going in from the top......

What exhaust are you using? Be sure to put it in before you install the axles, sometimes there's an interference there too

[scalpel_ninja]

Tell us more about those brake lines, they look interesting and I haven't seen those before. Where do you get them?

As for the lifting straps, the furthest ends would be the ones I'd use. Putting them there tilts the engine backwards so the final drive will go down into the hole first, assuming you're going to drop it in from the top. If you're going to pull it up from the bottom I would do as Dan says and use a light chain from the far left exhaust stud (as you face the engine) to the alternator bracket.

If you're going in from the top you'll need to have the radiator off, if coming up from below it's no problem.

Edit: took a better look at your pics, the subframe is already in place so you're going in from the top, so take the radiator off, and you def want to remove the distributor cap and wires. You might have an interference with the oil filter too as the engine is tipped over some as it goes in. I've had better luck with the chain from the exhaust to the alt bracket when going in from the top......

What exhaust are you using? Be sure to put it in before you install the axles, sometimes there's an interference there too

Thanks for the information. Dang, that radiator was fiddly to put on, I'm dreading to mount it while it's inside the engine bay...

The brake lines are made by HEL Performance. They have ready-made kits and the sleeve color can be customized. I have the master cylinder to T kit and the front subframe kit in the photo. Mounted to the subframe are the disc brake lines (not listed on the website but one can call to order it). I also purchased the clutch master cylinder to slave cylinder line, as well as the rear hard line delete that will go from the proportioning valve directly to the drums. The only hard line would be the front T to the rear proportioning valve. This makes installation a whole lot easier with the rotatable fittings and banjo bolts.

[cstudep]

They are pretty high quality but not really all that cheap LOL. I have the Mini Clutch line and a few other brake lines for the mini from them, but I initially discovered them when I was looking for custom PTFE brake lines for another project. They can build you pretty much whatever you want using various AN fittings, banjo fittings etc..pretty cool really when you are trying to replace old collapsed rubber lines on something that you can no longer find anymore.

[skmini]

I've been pulling mine with the radiator attached.  I've been taking the alternator and distributor cap off, as well as taking the starter off.  I haven't needed to take the oil filter off.

The axles are the biggest pain.

Lot's of carefulling.