Amateur Restoration of a 1960 Morris Mini

[MiniDave]

I'll be home in a couple of days and can take some pics.....y'all will just have to be patient!   

[scalpel_ninja]

Getting ready to come out of hibernation on this project. So far the shell assembled with the subframes is sitting on jack stands. The front axles and hubs are disassembled; rear hubs will need to come off to replace the bearings.

I'm planning on dropping the engine in after I drill the front subframe for the sump guard and weld in captive nuts. Aside from attaching the speedo cable, are there any other tasks that really need to be done to make life easier? Such as installing the brake hard lines? Fuel line? Wiring? Or could those tasks be done after the engine is bolted in place?

[MiniDave]

You def want to install the brake hard line that goes across the front edge of the subframe, you can do it after it's in the car, but it's much easier to do it first.

[skmini]

If you're replacing the fuel or brake hard lines that go under the floor, they're easiest to do with the subframes out.  The hydraulic hard lines that go across the bulkhead are a lot easier without the engine in.  I built the front suspension and brake lines on the subframe off the car.  On Dave's advice I actually installed the complete drivetrain on the front subframe and then lowered the shell onto it.  That looked a bit sketchy with just a floor jack and jackstands lifting the shell: pictures on page 8 of my "79 Canadian Mini" thread.

I did the wiring after the engine was in, but before the interior.

[scalpel_ninja]

Finally got around to mounting the pedal box and brake & clutch cylinders.





Now with the tab that extends to where the steering column is, not sure how the drop down bracket is supposed mount?





Also, this throttle came off of the prior pedal box, not sure how it's supposed to mount now, or if it's even compatible?



I also pulled the rear bearings off, expecting to have the worst time with the inner race. However I was very fortunate in that everything slid off with the claw puller.

Left rear stub axle looks pretty good.


However, the right has a gouge in it. Not sure if it'll need to be replaced? The castle nut was also a different size, right hand threaded, and a different thread than the left? I thought the right was supposed to be reverse threaded?

[scalpel_ninja]

Since I have both back plates off, I figured I would replace the slave cylinders. The new one has this black metal stub on it next to the bleed valve. My plate doesn't have a hole for it. Can it just be removed? Also any tips/tricks as to how to get that massive circlip on without a special tool? Does the bend in the clip flare away or toward the plate?

[94touring]

Those are your rear wheel cylinders.  Probably fine to remove the roll pin, or drill a hole for it in the back plate. For the circlips I use needle nose pliers and or a combination of flat head screw drivers to push the old off. Its easy tapping the new on.

[cstudep]

Had I known that the version of the throttle pedal you had was also completely different I would have sent that along with the pedal box. It needs cleaned up a bit but is in working order. Good timing as it just got put into the dump trailer load of scrap I am hauling off Friday and it just happened to be sitting right on top LOL. Your Paddy Hopkirk pedal should mount up to it so I would pull that off and transfer it over. I will get it in the mail to you as soon as I can.

The other 2 pictures show how it mounts directly to the fire wall and is not connected to the pedal box at all, as well as how the column drop bracket mounts, or at least how it's mounted on my car.

[scalpel_ninja]

Had I known that the version of the throttle pedal you had was also completely different I would have sent that along with the pedal box. It needs cleaned up a bit but is in working order. Good timing as it just got put into the dump trailer load of scrap I am hauling off Friday and it just happened to be sitting right on top LOL. Your Paddy Hopkirk pedal should mount up to it so I would pull that off and transfer it over. I will get it in the mail to you as soon as I can.

The other 2 pictures show how it mounts directly to the fire wall and is not connected to the pedal box at all, as well as how the column drop bracket mounts, or at least how it's mounted on my car.

Great timing! Please let me know if I can send some money your way to cover shipping costs.

[MiniDave]

I would go look at some YouTube videos on the clips on the rear brake cylinders, that clip can be a royal PITA to put back on, but there are several "tricks" people have found to do it. My recollection is the flare goes out, but I'm not sure......like Dan says, just remove the roll pin, or drill the hole for it, either is OK.

[bikewiz]

Don't bother with the "rear wheel cylinder circlip tool" they don't really help, as Dan said needle nose and screw drivers.

[MiniDave]

I have one of those, and it does actually work, what no one told me is that you have to grease the heck out of it.....then it works OK

[scalpel_ninja]

Don't bother with the "rear wheel cylinder circlip tool" they don't really help, as Dan said needle nose and screw drivers.

I have one of those, and it does actually work, what  told me is that you have to grease the heck out of it.....then it works OK

Thanks! I'm going to attempt with basic tools first.

[scalpel_ninja]

Got the front springs and hi/los installed today. Interesting the shortest setting on the hi/lo was about the same height as the stock cone?

I also took out the old tie rods and lower control arms. Planning on putting in adjustable ones with offset bushings. I followed the instructions from Mini Spares and the pin does slide in easily. It just looks odd; is it supposed to be at an angle with the rubber flanges not parallel to the metal?




I also dry fitted the sump guard. Does it look to be about the right spot?

[94touring]

Those new cones will settle in.

[MiniDave]

Sump guard looks good....