Amateur Restoration of a 1960 Morris Mini

[scalpel_ninja]

When I say "amateur," I mean it! Any feedback will be appreciated!

This project was put on hold for 3 years due to family obligations. Now that my son is old enough to appreciate and enjoy helping me, the glacial movement forward is accelerating somewhat.

The engine and many parts were purchased summer of 2021 but sat on a pallet in a box in my garage since.

The shell came with a damaged and poorly welded repair of the brace(?) on the firewall. I welded new steel into it as close as possible to the original stock angles. This was done in late 2021.



The floor had a gaping hole where the previous owner used a Sawzall and ripped a hole to fit a remote shifter. I welded new steel into to repair the are in preparation for the rod shifter and bracket. This was done earlier this year in January.



In the last few weeks, I started to take apart the front and rear suspension. This included removing the cones and trumpets in the front and back. I'm test fitting the new springs and hi/los. They'll come back out for a more formal fitting when I receive the replacement knuckle joints.





I've found the front lower arms are a botched repair of broken ones. A steel rod was welded in to join the two pieces. I'm getting ready to order adjustable ones.

This weekend, my goal is to coat the floorpan with POR15 and prime the bare spot in the engine bay. I have a can of blue paint that is a close approximation of the current color for the engine bay.

[MiniDave]

Did they just do the "repair" on one side of the lower control arm? I've seen arms welded up like this in order to add a little camber.

I like the heavy duty lower arms and tie bars Mini Sport sells better than the ones from Spares. The price has gone down some on these too......  https://www.minisport.com/spdsp431a-heavy-duty-adjustable-mini-bottom-suspension-arms.html

tie bars... https://www.minisport.com/c-8g4249-mini-sport-adjustable-front-suspension-tie-rod-pair.html

It looks like you have 2 aluminum spacers under the red spring, is this correct? I usually only see the one. Maybe the second one is the hilo?

Most people find those red springs too stiff.......I bought "black" ones from Huddersfield that were supposed to be between the stiff red ones and the too soft blue ones, I liked them but then I was replacing rock hard old cones so anything would have been an improvement!

Was the wiring and everything stripped out of the engine bay so that you  could paint it?

A lot of times those bulkheads are damaged when someone wants to put a 1275 with an HIF carby on it in an early car like this - the bottom of the carb hits the cross beam so some guys just take a big hammer to it to make room!

Are you running the original 850 or something else?

[scalpel_ninja]

Did they just do the "repair" on one side of the lower control arm? I've seen arms welded up like this in order to add a little camber.

I like the heavy duty lower arms and tie bars Mini Sport sells better than the ones from Spares. The price has gone down some on these too......  https://www.minisport.com/spdsp431a-heavy-duty-adjustable-mini-bottom-suspension-arms.html

tie bars... https://www.minisport.com/c-8g4249-mini-sport-adjustable-front-suspension-tie-rod-pair.html

It looks like you have 2 aluminum spacers under the red spring, is this correct? I usually only see the one. Maybe the second one is the hilo?

Most people find those red springs too stiff.......I bought "black" ones from Huddersfield that were supposed to be between the stiff red ones and the too soft blue ones, I liked them but then I was replacing rock hard old cones so anything would have been an improvement!

Was the wiring and everything stripped out of the engine bay so that you  could paint it?

A lot of times those bulkheads are damaged when someone wants to put a 1275 with an HIF carby on it in an early car like this - the bottom of the carb hits the cross beam so some guys just take a big hammer to it to make room!

Are you running the original 850 or something else?

Both sides are welded in a similar fashion. I didn't know this was a way to introduce camber!

Thank you for the links to the lower arms and tie bars.

I hope I put the rear spring in correctly. In the photo from right to left: red spring, aluminum spacer, hi/lo trumpet. The hi/los and springs were purchased from Mini Mania. They didn't have options for different spring rates at the time, just color: red or blue; but I could be mistaken. I believe there is an aluminum spacer that interfaces the spring with the hi/lo. I'll need to check the set for the front, but I think it also has an aluminum disc that sandwiches between the hi/lo and spring.

The original wires were rotten and insulation falling off of the copper when I got the car. I took out most of the old wires and have a new harness ready to go in. The car was already painted blue when I got it. Unfortunately it wasn't completely stripped clean when it was painted. Many of the components and a part of the subframe are all painted the same blue. As I remove the parts, I'm cleaning off the old paint or will replace bits and bobs.

Interesting you mention someone taking a big hammer to the bulkhead. When I removed the botched plate, it revealed the original steel folded in with holes cut into it.

The engine I have was built by Seven Enterprises. A 1380 with an HIF 6/44 carb. I'm hoping it'll fit... I did send the photos of the bulkhead to Seven before ordering the engine and carb.

[MiniDave]

It will fit, but you might need a thinner spacer between the carb and the plate that the accelerator cable hooks to.....

[Willie_B]

When you put the front susp. back together the bolt for the tie bar at the lower arm should go in from the top. Theory being if the nut falls off the bolt won't fall out.

[94touring]

Yeah the longer the lower arm the more negative camber you get. The tie rod bolt goes in from the top, but if you already have the pot joint/front hub in place, the bolt won't slide in from the top.  So you see them installed from the bottom if done out of order.

[scalpel_ninja]

Weekend plans: Getting ready to apply POR15 on the underside where there is new steel. Also going to paint the bare spots to a near-match blue.

A question for the gurus: my rear wheel bearings have been sitting in place with the wheels on the ground for 30 years. I read they should be replaced because their sitting in place can cause wear on the races. As of now, the rear left seems smooth, but the rear right has a slight grinding noise when spun by hand.

Also, how do I know if stub axles should be replaced?

[94touring]

With any car I tear down, I just go ahead and redo all the bearings, bushings, rubber, ect ect.  30 years of sitting those rear needle bearings are 90% likely froze up.

[MiniDave]

Weekend plans: Getting ready to apply POR15 on the underside where there is new steel. Also going to paint the bare spots to a near-match blue.

A question for the gurus: my rear wheel bearings have been sitting in place with the wheels on the ground for 30 years. I read they should be replaced because their sitting in place can cause wear on the races. As of now, the rear left seems smooth, but the rear right has a slight grinding noise when spun by hand.

Also, how do I know if stub axles should be replaced?

Spindles will be ok unless the races spun on the stub, which is unlikely. New bearings will come with new races, so no worries there. I agree with Dan, after 30 years of sitting some parts should just be replaced for safety and longevity's sake....especially things like rubber parts, brake hoses, maybe ball joints.....you can do it all at once or run the risk of things failing as you put miles on it. Master brake and clutch cylinders may have dried or rusted up too.....recommissioning a car that's been sitting for a long time can be fairly extensive.

[scalpel_ninja]

Thank you sirs! I'll be sourcing more parts then! 

[scalpel_ninja]

Looking at the prices of rear bearings. Are genuine Timken bearings worth the premium?

[94touring]

Ehhh, I really don't know.  I've used both and neither have failed.

[MiniDave]

I've not had any issue with the aftermarket bearings, except one - the spacer between the races is sized such that you can't use the factory procedure to adjust them - they'll lock up if you torque them to 60lbs like the book says. The easy button is just to set them like every one has done wheel bearings forever - take all the play out and put the cotter pin in. Done.

Some guys swear by the Timkens, and I used to be one of them - but now that Timkens are also made in China I don't see the advantage. BTW, the front wheel bearings I had that failed this summer were Timken.

EDIT: I'm talking about the rear bearings here - front ones torque up the same as always.

[scalpel_ninja]

Applied POR15 to the repaired patches today.







Waiting for it to cure to a tacky dry, then will apply primer.

[MiniDave]

I wonder what put that dent in the right side, top of your subframe?

[scalpel_ninja]

I wonder what put that dent in the right side, top of your subframe?

Huh, I never noticed that... Though I get the feeling this particular car has been through a lot, maybe raced in the past with some damage?

[MiniDave]

There's really nothing on that side of the engine to hit it there, is my point - even in an accident. Very curious.....

[scalpel_ninja]

This caught my eye when browsing parts and DIY videos. I saw one person tack welded nuts to be captive on the subframe for easier mounting. For normal street driving, would this be a recommended accessory?

[MiniDave]

I've never hit my transmission case on anything.....but I  think if you're running the car slammed it would be a good idea.

[94touring]

Look up their innocenti sump cover. It's better imo.  I used it on the 74 mini.  Easy oil changes.  Doesn't weight 50lbs.

My cars are low and with the roads in my area, cheap insurance. 

[94touring]

https://minispares.com/product/Classic/Body/Subframes/Front/MS96.aspx?030802&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/Innocenti%20.aspx|Back%20to%20search

[scalpel_ninja]

I dry fitted the pedal assembly in preparation of putting it back in with the clutch and brake master cylinders. It appears one stud is missing? The previous owner put a single grade 8 nut/bolt to hold down the brake cylinder where the stud is missing.

Is it worth welding a plate and stud back to the pedal box or would the single nut/bolt suffice?

[94touring]

I'd drill it out and weld a stud in.

[MiniDave]

....or if it's reachable, drill the hole and use a nut and bolt, but to answer your question - I think you need both fasteners there, one is not sufficient. When it comes to brakes, I always err on the side of caution.

It would be a good idea to run a die or thread chaser over those threads too, they look a little corroded.

[MPlayle]

It looks to me like the "ear" of the pedal box mount where the 4th stud should go is completely missing - like that corner got cut off at some point.

That may explain why there was previously a bolt holding the brake master to the bulkhead.