Rusted Manifold Studs

[tmsmini]

What is your secret sauce to loosen old rusty stuff?
I have used Kroil for awhile and it has gotten 5 of 7 out of this manifold.
Successive heating and then cooling with an ice cube is not working on the last two.

[jedduh01]

Propane is OK heat, but isnt MAP Gas Hotter ( for in the bottle with a nozzle gas)?

But I have the Oxy Acetylene.   Get it cherry red.. Spin em out.. That is really trying to only get the manifold glowing red to expand. and no so much heat on the stud if and where possible.

[MiniDave]

Jedduh is right, not enough heat from propane.

But you might try this.....get it plenty hot (the manifold around the stud) and rub a candle on the stud, the heat will draw the wax in around the stud, then try tightening it first, then loosen it.

[tmsmini]

I will make a trip to the hardware store. I have time as other parts I need are slow in coming.

Kroil works pretty well and wicks into edges, but I may try the candle as well.

[MiniDave]

I use Kroil a lot, but the candle trick works right now. With Kroil you have to let it set a few days and work it's way into the threads.

[tmsmini]

Patience, MAP gas, paraffin or blu-torch WD

At least one of those got them out

[BruceK]

Patience, MAP gas, paraffin or blu-torch WD

At least one of those got them out

What about cussing?  I usually try that first! 

And second.

And third.

[tmsmini]

I have remained pretty calm about the manifold. The manifold cost £29.99 on ebay plus a few hours.

I have saved my cussing for Tesla solar installers

[MPlayle]

That is a different looking manifold.  I have not seen that kind of a join with that "cross-over" slot that looks like it also goes into a third passage.

From the first picture, it looks to be the bottom join of an exhaust manifold?  What style?

[94touring]

Usually soaking in some kind of PB-blaster or similar penetrant for a day or two aided with some propane heat does the trick, but not always. My worst stuck moment was an 02 sensor in an SPI manifold. It required an acetylene torch and it being glowing hot.  Tightening first is a trick that helps too.

[tmsmini]

It is an SPi/MPi cast manifold. It requires the later type of downpipe. Maniflow makes one.

It has a provision for the narrowband O₂ sensor. It may not be in an ideal location for a sensor- too close to the head. It needs minor modification to be used with a wide band.

Over the years it had received not too bad of reviews. I switched from LCBs to this style to reduce noise and I got tired of the "Y" connection loosening and leaking.

[tmsmini]

It also has a provision for a heat shield.

[MPlayle]

That makes sense now.  I had just not seen that manifold from the angles you showed and got confused.

[Jimini II]

It is an SPi/MPi cast manifold. It requires the later type of downpipe. Maniflow makes one.

It has a provision for the narrowband O₂ sensor. It may not be in an ideal location for a sensor- too close to the head. It needs minor modification to be used with a wide band.

Over the years it had received not too bad of reviews. I switched from LCBs to this style to reduce noise and I got tired of the "Y" connection loosening and leaking.

Calver did some testing years ago comparing these with LCB's
The SPI manifold flowed better than most LCB's he tested and of course the noise level was better.

[tmsmini]

That Titan stuff looks pretty amazing.
They have metric items as well. The manifold uses metric studs and bolts.
The little 6 mm bolts that attach the heat shield are real buggers, I may go for titanium for those.

[Willie_B]

They have metric items as well. The manifold uses metric studs and bolts.
The little 6 mm bolts that attach the heat shield are real buggers, I may go for titanium for those.

I had manifold ceramic coated, then Ididn't need the heat shield. But I am also running a carb, not FI.

[MiniDave]

That ceramic coating on cast iron is the tits isn't it? Love that stuff!