Rear subframe install.

[Willie_B]

Just wondering which way go when the time comes. Build it all the way then install it complete or install just the subframe and then the parts or???  The moke is much more open under there than a mini.

[94touring]

For sure assemble the whole thing, then install.  A 2nd floor jack if you're solo to work each side makes it easier as well.

[MPlayle]

When I did my Moke, I bought a completely built up rear subframe to replace the original as I was not going to be able to get the old one apart to refurbish myself  (too many rusted into place pieces).

Since mine was already completely built up, That was how I installed it.

As you have indicated, the Moke has more open access for doing the install.  I had a friend helping and we used just my one floor jack with the two ended cross piece and got the rear subframe in easily.

[MiniDave]

If you have plenty of room, it's easy to lift it into place all together, but if you're on your lift, it will be much easier to slip it up in there mostly bare. Ask me how I know!   ;D

[tsumini]

I installed both front and rear completed except for wheels and tires. I did that to make sure brakes and pipes were secure with no leaks. I made all the SF brake connections and leak checked to ensure I had no leaks so I wouldn't have to replace any part of the brake system after install. http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?topic=578.100. Both front and rear were leak checked as assemblies then connections (tees, connectioons to MC) I did run into a few places with repeaded leaks but when corrected it was very easy to ensure total  assembly was leak free. After that the only break in the pressure was bleeding the system. Any bleeding problems were not due to leaks. Brake  install and bleeding was problem free.
I found that a leak free brake system was well worth the extra effort of fully assembled SF.

[Willie_B]

Had not thought of using air to pressure check the brake system. Add that to the list.

[tsumini]

Had not thought of using air to pressure check the brake system. Add that to the list.

Yes a lot easier to see a bubble than oozing around a fitting. Easy to make too. I used a brass tee to tee off to the gage with a shrader valve to supply pressure and a short brake line pigtail. Should't cost more that $15 to make. Not sure why I put the regulator in, it isn't needed.