When I say "amateur," I mean it! Any feedback will be appreciated!
This project was put on hold for 3 years due to family obligations. Now that my son is old enough to appreciate and enjoy helping me, the glacial movement forward is accelerating somewhat.
The engine and many parts were purchased summer of 2021 but sat on a pallet in a box in my garage since.
The shell came with a damaged and poorly welded repair of the brace(?) on the firewall. I welded new steel into it as close as possible to the original stock angles. This was done in late 2021.
(https://i.imgur.com/DU6R3yF.jpeg)
The floor had a gaping hole where the previous owner used a Sawzall and ripped a hole to fit a remote shifter. I welded new steel into to repair the are in preparation for the rod shifter and bracket. This was done earlier this year in January.
(https://i.imgur.com/WY95hGL.jpeg)
In the last few weeks, I started to take apart the front and rear suspension. This included removing the cones and trumpets in the front and back. I'm test fitting the new springs and hi/los. They'll come back out for a more formal fitting when I receive the replacement knuckle joints.
(https://i.imgur.com/Ded49rz.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/syIXoy3.jpeg)
I've found the front lower arms are a botched repair of broken ones. A steel rod was welded in to join the two pieces. I'm getting ready to order adjustable ones.
This weekend, my goal is to coat the floorpan with POR15 and prime the bare spot in the engine bay. I have a can of blue paint that is a close approximation of the current color for the engine bay.
Did they just do the "repair" on one side of the lower control arm? I've seen arms welded up like this in order to add a little camber.
I like the heavy duty lower arms and tie bars Mini Sport sells better than the ones from Spares. The price has gone down some on these too...... https://www.minisport.com/spdsp431a-heavy-duty-adjustable-mini-bottom-suspension-arms.html (https://www.minisport.com/spdsp431a-heavy-duty-adjustable-mini-bottom-suspension-arms.html)
tie bars... https://www.minisport.com/c-8g4249-mini-sport-adjustable-front-suspension-tie-rod-pair.html (https://www.minisport.com/c-8g4249-mini-sport-adjustable-front-suspension-tie-rod-pair.html)
It looks like you have 2 aluminum spacers under the red spring, is this correct? I usually only see the one. Maybe the second one is the hilo?
Most people find those red springs too stiff.......I bought "black" ones from Huddersfield that were supposed to be between the stiff red ones and the too soft blue ones, I liked them but then I was replacing rock hard old cones so anything would have been an improvement!
Was the wiring and everything stripped out of the engine bay so that you could paint it?
A lot of times those bulkheads are damaged when someone wants to put a 1275 with an HIF carby on it in an early car like this - the bottom of the carb hits the cross beam so some guys just take a big hammer to it to make room!
Are you running the original 850 or something else?
Quote from: MiniDave on October 19, 2024, 01:31:28 PMDid they just do the "repair" on one side of the lower control arm? I've seen arms welded up like this in order to add a little camber.
I like the heavy duty lower arms and tie bars Mini Sport sells better than the ones from Spares. The price has gone down some on these too...... https://www.minisport.com/spdsp431a-heavy-duty-adjustable-mini-bottom-suspension-arms.html (https://www.minisport.com/spdsp431a-heavy-duty-adjustable-mini-bottom-suspension-arms.html)
tie bars... https://www.minisport.com/c-8g4249-mini-sport-adjustable-front-suspension-tie-rod-pair.html (https://www.minisport.com/c-8g4249-mini-sport-adjustable-front-suspension-tie-rod-pair.html)
It looks like you have 2 aluminum spacers under the red spring, is this correct? I usually only see the one. Maybe the second one is the hilo?
Most people find those red springs too stiff.......I bought "black" ones from Huddersfield that were supposed to be between the stiff red ones and the too soft blue ones, I liked them but then I was replacing rock hard old cones so anything would have been an improvement!
Was the wiring and everything stripped out of the engine bay so that you could paint it?
A lot of times those bulkheads are damaged when someone wants to put a 1275 with an HIF carby on it in an early car like this - the bottom of the carb hits the cross beam so some guys just take a big hammer to it to make room!
Are you running the original 850 or something else?
Both sides are welded in a similar fashion. I didn't know this was a way to introduce camber!
Thank you for the links to the lower arms and tie bars.
I hope I put the rear spring in correctly. In the photo from right to left: red spring, aluminum spacer, hi/lo trumpet. The hi/los and springs were purchased from Mini Mania. They didn't have options for different spring rates at the time, just color: red or blue; but I could be mistaken. I believe there is an aluminum spacer that interfaces the spring with the hi/lo. I'll need to check the set for the front, but I think it also has an aluminum disc that sandwiches between the hi/lo and spring.
The original wires were rotten and insulation falling off of the copper when I got the car. I took out most of the old wires and have a new harness ready to go in. The car was already painted blue when I got it. Unfortunately it wasn't completely stripped clean when it was painted. Many of the components and a part of the subframe are all painted the same blue. As I remove the parts, I'm cleaning off the old paint or will replace bits and bobs.
Interesting you mention someone taking a big hammer to the bulkhead. When I removed the botched plate, it revealed the original steel folded in with holes cut into it.
The engine I have was built by Seven Enterprises. A 1380 with an HIF 6/44 carb. I'm hoping it'll fit... I did send the photos of the bulkhead to Seven before ordering the engine and carb.
It will fit, but you might need a thinner spacer between the carb and the plate that the accelerator cable hooks to.....
When you put the front susp. back together the bolt for the tie bar at the lower arm should go in from the top. Theory being if the nut falls off the bolt won't fall out.
Yeah the longer the lower arm the more negative camber you get. The tie rod bolt goes in from the top, but if you already have the pot joint/front hub in place, the bolt won't slide in from the top. So you see them installed from the bottom if done out of order.
Weekend plans: Getting ready to apply POR15 on the underside where there is new steel. Also going to paint the bare spots to a near-match blue.
A question for the gurus: my rear wheel bearings have been sitting in place with the wheels on the ground for 30 years. I read they should be replaced because their sitting in place can cause wear on the races. As of now, the rear left seems smooth, but the rear right has a slight grinding noise when spun by hand.
Also, how do I know if stub axles should be replaced?
With any car I tear down, I just go ahead and redo all the bearings, bushings, rubber, ect ect. 30 years of sitting those rear needle bearings are 90% likely froze up.
Quote from: scalpel_ninja on October 23, 2024, 06:44:36 PMWeekend plans: Getting ready to apply POR15 on the underside where there is new steel. Also going to paint the bare spots to a near-match blue.
A question for the gurus: my rear wheel bearings have been sitting in place with the wheels on the ground for 30 years. I read they should be replaced because their sitting in place can cause wear on the races. As of now, the rear left seems smooth, but the rear right has a slight grinding noise when spun by hand.
Also, how do I know if stub axles should be replaced?
Spindles will be ok unless the races spun on the stub, which is unlikely. New bearings will come with new races, so no worries there. I agree with Dan, after 30 years of sitting some parts should just be replaced for safety and longevity's sake....especially things like rubber parts, brake hoses, maybe ball joints.....you can do it all at once or run the risk of things failing as you put miles on it. Master brake and clutch cylinders may have dried or rusted up too.....recommissioning a car that's been sitting for a long time can be fairly extensive.
Thank you sirs! I'll be sourcing more parts then! :great:
Looking at the prices of rear bearings. Are genuine Timken bearings worth the premium?
Ehhh, I really don't know. I've used both and neither have failed.
I've not had any issue with the aftermarket bearings, except one - the spacer between the races is sized such that you can't use the factory procedure to adjust them - they'll lock up if you torque them to 60lbs like the book says. The easy button is just to set them like every one has done wheel bearings forever - take all the play out and put the cotter pin in. Done.
Some guys swear by the Timkens, and I used to be one of them - but now that Timkens are also made in China I don't see the advantage. BTW, the front wheel bearings I had that failed this summer were Timken.
EDIT: I'm talking about the rear bearings here - front ones torque up the same as always.
Applied POR15 to the repaired patches today.
(https://i.imgur.com/jsjGA6L.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/55CB4DD.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rI0VsdT.jpeg)
Waiting for it to cure to a tacky dry, then will apply primer.
I wonder what put that dent in the right side, top of your subframe?
Quote from: MiniDave on October 29, 2024, 08:26:51 AMI wonder what put that dent in the right side, top of your subframe?
Huh, I never noticed that... Though I get the feeling this particular car has been through a lot, maybe raced in the past with some damage?
There's really nothing on that side of the engine to hit it there, is my point - even in an accident. Very curious.....
(https://www.minimania.com/images_temp/800600001sumpguarda.jpg)
This caught my eye when browsing parts and DIY videos. I saw one person tack welded nuts to be captive on the subframe for easier mounting. For normal street driving, would this be a recommended accessory?
I've never hit my transmission case on anything.....but I think if you're running the car slammed it would be a good idea.
Look up their innocenti sump cover. It's better imo. I used it on the 74 mini. Easy oil changes. Doesn't weight 50lbs.
My cars are low and with the roads in my area, cheap insurance.
https://minispares.com/product/Classic/Body/Subframes/Front/MS96.aspx?030802&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/Innocenti%20.aspx|Back%20to%20search
I dry fitted the pedal assembly in preparation of putting it back in with the clutch and brake master cylinders. It appears one stud is missing? The previous owner put a single grade 8 nut/bolt to hold down the brake cylinder where the stud is missing.
Is it worth welding a plate and stud back to the pedal box or would the single nut/bolt suffice?
(https://i.imgur.com/Tw5bGDB.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HG1yjcb.jpeg)
I'd drill it out and weld a stud in.
....or if it's reachable, drill the hole and use a nut and bolt, but to answer your question - I think you need both fasteners there, one is not sufficient. When it comes to brakes, I always err on the side of caution.
It would be a good idea to run a die or thread chaser over those threads too, they look a little corroded.
It looks to me like the "ear" of the pedal box mount where the 4th stud should go is completely missing - like that corner got cut off at some point.
That may explain why there was previously a bolt holding the brake master to the bulkhead.
Quote from: MiniDave on November 12, 2024, 09:00:53 AM....or if it's reachable, drill the hole and use a nut and bolt, but to answer your question - I think you need both fasteners there, one is not sufficient. When it comes to brakes, I always err on the side of caution.
It would be a good idea to run a die or thread chaser over those threads too, they look a little corroded.
I agree. I did use a 5/16 NF24 die to clean up the threads on the three old studs.
Quote from: MPlayle on November 12, 2024, 09:20:50 AMIt looks to me like the "ear" of the pedal box mount where the 4th stud should go is completely missing - like that corner got cut off at some point.
That may explain why there was previously a bolt holding the brake master to the bulkhead.
Yes, that part of the plate is missing. I did end up welding a replacement plate and then drilled and tapped for a new stud.
Here's the result of the repair.
(https://i.imgur.com/Jk7kzRM.jpeg)
Getting ready to order parts from Mini Spares but I've never ordered from them before. After they ship the package, will I be hit with an additional charge for tax before I can receive the package stateside?
Very rarely. If it's a huge order DHL emails you the bill. There aren't delays, unlike UPS who holds your stuff for a week or more.
Where are you located?
As Dan says, you may get hit with customs duty, but it's a relatively small amount and I usually only get charged with it on orders around $2K or more. They send you an email and you can pay it with a credit card and they'll release the shipment. They won't hold your shipment up unless you don't pay the customs fee.....and it usually only adds a day.
The only issue I ever had ordering from Spares was my own fault - my credit card (the one I use for car parts purchases) has a daily limit and when I made an order larger than that limit they of course declined it. I got an immediate email from Spares, had to call my bank and OK the larger amount, then tell Spares to go ahead with it. From then on I called the bank ahead of time so that wouldn't happen. Later I just upped the daily limit.
Your bank will probably charge a currency conversion fee too, but again, it's minimal. The most I ever paid was about $10....usually it's a couple dollars.
DHL shipping is really fast, one shipment was on my doorstep 2 days after I made the order!
Quote from: MiniDave on November 24, 2024, 09:02:22 AMWhere are you located?
As Dan says, you may get hit with customs duty, but it's a relatively small amount and I usually only get charged with it on orders around $2K or more. They send you an email and you can pay it with a credit card and they'll release the shipment. They won't hold your shipment up unless you don't pay the customs fee.....and it usually only adds a day.
The only issue I ever had ordering from Spares was my own fault - my credit card (the one I use for car parts purchases) has a daily limit and when I made an order larger than that limit they of course declined it. I got an immediate email from Spares, had to call my bank and OK the larger amount, then tell Spares to go ahead with it. From then on I called the bank ahead of time so that wouldn't happen. Later I just upped the daily limit.
Your bank will probably charge a currency conversion fee too, but again, it's minimal. The most I ever paid was about $10....usually it's a couple dollars.
DHL shipping is really fast, one shipment was on my doorstep 2 days after I made the order!
Thank you for the information. I'm located in Los Angeles. My order will be about $400 this time.
I'm also looking at which speedo cable I'm supposed to get. I recall it should be attached to the engine before it gets lifted into the bay? Not sure of which length should be purchased for a LHD.
Received a bunch of parts from Mini Spares and getting ready to get some work done soon.
I ordered 5/8 inch rear brake cylinders to go with the new front discs with 7.5 inch rotors, but they sent me 3/4 inch rear cylinders. Wondering if this will cause an issue with the rears locking up prematurely? I did get a new proportioning valve, and also have the old one ready to modify to an adjustable version.
I run 3/4" rear cylinders with 8.4 discs, I don't ever have a lockup issue.....don't know why it would matter that they're 7.5" discs.
I use and have used a number of other times the 3/4 bore pre assembled rear kits with 7.5 front disc. I've never had an issue.
Quote from: MiniDave on December 24, 2024, 03:35:01 PMI run 3/4" rear cylinders with 8.4 discs, I don't ever have a lockup issue.....don't know why it would matter that they're 7.5" discs.
Quote from: 94touring on December 24, 2024, 04:21:21 PMI use and have used a number of other times the 3/4 bore pre assembled rear kits with 7.5 front disc. I've never had an issue.
Thank you sirs! I was also attempting to put the pedal box back in, and it seems to sit at a weird angle, unable to position the studs for the brake and clutch cylinders perpendicular to the cross brace. It's as if the studs are too far back, or the lower mounting tabs are too far forward?
(https://i.imgur.com/GKPBce1.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kYxtp9a.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ON3aO71.jpeg)
I did elongate the four holes in the cross beam, but can't do too much as it'll misalign the holes in the pedal box from the cross beam.
There also appears to be extra thickness below the lower mounting tabs where the floor is welded in with sealant. However, trimming those pieces of metal doesn't appear to be enough to reduce the problem by much.
I've never had a pedal box not fit, so I'm not sure on that one.
I had to go out to the garage and try to examine the pedal box in my Mini and it does not look anything like yours. The long arms (hanging down to the toe board on yours) are horizontal and attach to the bottom rail of the dash as part of the sterring column support. I was not able to get a picture to show the difference (plus mine has the carpet tucked in there blocking most of the view).
I did find this diagram on the Mini Spares site that might help seeing the orientation as it matches my pedal box.
Quote from: MPlayle on December 25, 2024, 07:12:32 PMI had to go out to the garage and try to examine the pedal box in my Mini and it does not look anything like yours. The long arms (hanging down to the toe board on yours) are horizontal and attach to the bottom rail of the dash as part of the sterring column support. I was not able to get a picture to show the difference (plus mine has the carpet tucked in there blocking most of the view).
I did find this diagram on the Mini Spares site that might help seeing the orientation as it matches my pedal box.
Thank you for the diagram. I found this (https://www.minimania.com/part/U-21A2467/Used-Left-Hand-Drive-Single-Line-Pedal-Box-With-Pedals-Mini-Before-1990) listing. Looks to be similar and should work for LHD?
I have one out of a 68 MkII LH drive car. I pulled it out of the scrap pile I was going to be hauling off soon. The pedals moved freely but they are a little stiff and did not want to "return" via the spring pressure alone. I sprayed it down with some WD40 and worked the pedals back and forth for a few minutes. The right pedal now returns on it's own and the left tries to but does not quite yet. I think with some more penetrating oil and some back and forth work they could come out of it. It also looks like the shaft can be removed for a more thorough cleaning if need be?
Quote from: cstudep on December 25, 2024, 09:18:11 PMI have one out of a 68 MkII LH drive car. I pulled it out of the scrap pile I was going to be hauling off soon. The pedals moved freely but they are a little stiff and did not want to "return" via the spring pressure alone. I sprayed it down with some WD40 and worked the pedals back and forth for a few minutes. The right pedal now returns on it's own and the left tries to but does not quite yet. I think with some more penetrating oil and some back and forth work they could come out of it. It also looks like the shaft can be removed for a more thorough cleaning if need be?
If you're not planning to use that box, perhaps I can send some funds to buy it from you?
Send me a zip code and I'll see what shipping might end up costing. I can guarantee whatever it ends up being the total will be a hell of a lot cheaper than that one on mania.
The pedal shaft is supposed to be removable. Mini Spares has listings for replacement shafts as well as replacement springs.
The one @cstudep has is correct and should work after a good cleaning.
Both pedals return via spring pressure as of this morning, just not as vigorously as maybe they should. Just sitting overnight with the leftover wd40 in the joint loosened things up considerably. They should work fine with a little more cleaning. I even have the lower mounting bolts taped in the holes with electrical tape. Tossing in the engine bay plate as well, not sure if you have that part or not but the weight add is negligible, it was in the pics.
Put me down as another who's never seen a pedal box like that one - at first I thought maybe you had it in there wrong, but there's no way to do that and have the studs go out the right way....strange.
I went to Somerford's catalog as they have the best line drawings of Mini parts on the web that I've found, none of the ones listed look like yours, they all resemble the one Paul has with some detail changes thru the years. I think you should def go with his....
https://www.somerfordmini.co.uk/manual-gearbox-clutch-pedal-and-hydraulics
And yes, you can disassemble the entire pedal box, you can even replace the bushings in the pedals if they're worn badly but be aware you will need to ream them to size if you do. Ask me how I know.......lol.
Oh, and I would never try to assemble one of those in the car, do it on the bench then put the whole thing in the car - much easier.
Quote from: MiniDave on December 26, 2024, 09:45:41 AMPut me down as another who's never seen a pedal box like that one - at first I thought maybe you had it in there wrong, but there's no way to do that and have the studs go out the right way....strange.
I went to Somerford's catalog as they have the best line drawings of Mini parts on the web that I've found, none of the ones listed look like yours, they all resemble the one Paul has with some detail changes thru the years. I think you should def go with his....
https://www.somerfordmini.co.uk/manual-gearbox-clutch-pedal-and-hydraulics
And yes, you can disassemble the entire pedal box, you can even replace the bushings in the pedals if they're worn badly but be aware you will need to ream them to size if you do. Ask me how I know.......lol.
Oh, and I would never try to assemble one of those in the car, do it on the bench then put the whole thing in the car - much easier.
Thank you for the information!
I wonder if this box was from an Austin America vehicle? The old engine and many parts that came with the car appear to be for non-Mini vehicle.
I have this one in my boxes of parts that I will not be needing.
Quote from: Willie_B on December 26, 2024, 10:38:06 AMI have this one in my boxes of parts that I will not be needing.
Thank you for the offer! However, I've already made arrangements with cstudep.
Could the odd pedal box be for a LHD car that has the cross-over tube to under the right side of the dash for the late style boosted brake master over the clutch?
I don't see the cross-over parts in the Sommerford diagram.
My green car has the crossover, the pedal box looks the same as the rest of them
I know on the LHD cars with the cross-over the main pedal box is the same as those shown above. What I don't know is what the secondary box on the right side (where the cross-over leads to for actuating the brake master/booster) looks like.
I'll be home in a couple of days and can take some pics.....y'all will just have to be patient! :grin:
Getting ready to come out of hibernation on this project. So far the shell assembled with the subframes is sitting on jack stands. The front axles and hubs are disassembled; rear hubs will need to come off to replace the bearings.
I'm planning on dropping the engine in after I drill the front subframe for the sump guard and weld in captive nuts. Aside from attaching the speedo cable, are there any other tasks that really need to be done to make life easier? Such as installing the brake hard lines? Fuel line? Wiring? Or could those tasks be done after the engine is bolted in place?
You def want to install the brake hard line that goes across the front edge of the subframe, you can do it after it's in the car, but it's much easier to do it first.
If you're replacing the fuel or brake hard lines that go under the floor, they're easiest to do with the subframes out. The hydraulic hard lines that go across the bulkhead are a lot easier without the engine in. I built the front suspension and brake lines on the subframe off the car. On Dave's advice I actually installed the complete drivetrain on the front subframe and then lowered the shell onto it. That looked a bit sketchy with just a floor jack and jackstands lifting the shell: pictures on page 8 of my "79 Canadian Mini" thread.
I did the wiring after the engine was in, but before the interior.
Finally got around to mounting the pedal box and brake & clutch cylinders.
(https://i.imgur.com/fE3KGD7.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ILpQL6Z.jpeg)
Now with the tab that extends to where the steering column is, not sure how the drop down bracket is supposed mount?
(https://i.imgur.com/K44H8z2.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OjTUGJy.jpeg)
Also, this throttle came off of the prior pedal box, not sure how it's supposed to mount now, or if it's even compatible?
(https://i.imgur.com/CjsIbRw.jpeg)
I also pulled the rear bearings off, expecting to have the worst time with the inner race. However I was very fortunate in that everything slid off with the claw puller.
Left rear stub axle looks pretty good.
(https://i.imgur.com/W3Rs22r.jpeg)
However, the right has a gouge in it. Not sure if it'll need to be replaced? The castle nut was also a different size, right hand threaded, and a different thread than the left? I thought the right was supposed to be reverse threaded?
(https://i.imgur.com/uKpKnxE.jpeg)
Since I have both back plates off, I figured I would replace the slave cylinders. The new one has this black metal stub on it next to the bleed valve. My plate doesn't have a hole for it. Can it just be removed? Also any tips/tricks as to how to get that massive circlip on without a special tool? Does the bend in the clip flare away or toward the plate?
(https://i.imgur.com/ldpdx76.jpeg)
Those are your rear wheel cylinders. Probably fine to remove the roll pin, or drill a hole for it in the back plate. For the circlips I use needle nose pliers and or a combination of flat head screw drivers to push the old off. Its easy tapping the new on.
Had I known that the version of the throttle pedal you had was also completely different I would have sent that along with the pedal box. It needs cleaned up a bit but is in working order. Good timing as it just got put into the dump trailer load of scrap I am hauling off Friday and it just happened to be sitting right on top LOL. Your Paddy Hopkirk pedal should mount up to it so I would pull that off and transfer it over. I will get it in the mail to you as soon as I can.
The other 2 pictures show how it mounts directly to the fire wall and is not connected to the pedal box at all, as well as how the column drop bracket mounts, or at least how it's mounted on my car.
Quote from: cstudep on May 14, 2025, 05:48:42 PMHad I known that the version of the throttle pedal you had was also completely different I would have sent that along with the pedal box. It needs cleaned up a bit but is in working order. Good timing as it just got put into the dump trailer load of scrap I am hauling off Friday and it just happened to be sitting right on top LOL. Your Paddy Hopkirk pedal should mount up to it so I would pull that off and transfer it over. I will get it in the mail to you as soon as I can.
The other 2 pictures show how it mounts directly to the fire wall and is not connected to the pedal box at all, as well as how the column drop bracket mounts, or at least how it's mounted on my car.
Great timing! Please let me know if I can send some money your way to cover shipping costs.
I would go look at some YouTube videos on the clips on the rear brake cylinders, that clip can be a royal PITA to put back on, but there are several "tricks" people have found to do it. My recollection is the flare goes out, but I'm not sure......like Dan says, just remove the roll pin, or drill the hole for it, either is OK.
Don't bother with the "rear wheel cylinder circlip tool" they don't really help, as Dan said needle nose and screw drivers.
I have one of those, and it does actually work, what no one told me is that you have to grease the heck out of it.....then it works OK
Quote from: bikewiz on May 15, 2025, 06:56:21 PMDon't bother with the "rear wheel cylinder circlip tool" they don't really help, as Dan said needle nose and screw drivers.
Quote from: MiniDave on May 15, 2025, 09:04:58 PMI have one of those, and it does actually work, what told me is that you have to grease the heck out of it.....then it works OK
Thanks! I'm going to attempt with basic tools first.
Got the front springs and hi/los installed today. Interesting the shortest setting on the hi/lo was about the same height as the stock cone?
I also took out the old tie rods and lower control arms. Planning on putting in adjustable ones with offset bushings. I followed the instructions from Mini Spares and the pin does slide in easily. It just looks odd; is it supposed to be at an angle with the rubber flanges not parallel to the metal?
(https://i.imgur.com/708uPVm.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NHNNEke.jpeg)
I also dry fitted the sump guard. Does it look to be about the right spot?
(https://i.imgur.com/WPvAxwC.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9ukSypp.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hbHMmFk.jpeg)
Those new cones will settle in.
Sump guard looks good....
I think I'm pretty close to finally dropping in the engine.
I've installed the front subframe brake lines and opted for HEL Performance prefabricated lines.
The T where it splits front and back seems to be in an odd spot. Not sure if the previous owner chose that. Also not sure if this will be too close to the exhaust?
(https://i.imgur.com/sBuALL2.jpeg)
This is how the front is looking for now. I have the speedo cable installed on the engine. Anything else that might need to be installed before lifting the engine in?
(https://i.imgur.com/lu8vl57_d.webp?maxwidth=1520&fidelity=grand)
(https://i.imgur.com/6UoHxrU_d.webp?maxwidth=1520&fidelity=grand)
(https://i.imgur.com/CKds5FQ_d.webp?maxwidth=1520&fidelity=grand)(https://i.imgur.com/LRgBgqU_d.webp?maxwidth=1520&fidelity=grand)
(https://i.imgur.com/9Qgczk1_d.webp?maxwidth=1520&fidelity=grand)
I also got these brackets.
(https://i.imgur.com/Ub3JUgc_d.webp?maxwidth=1520&fidelity=grand)
I've seen them mounted to these head studs.
(https://i.imgur.com/ksJceaX_d.webp?maxwidth=1520&fidelity=grand)
Any recommendations on which bolts to use? Any issues with releasing the tension on these bolts?
Again, any feedback from the classic Mini gurus here is very much appreciated!
That's where the T fitting goes. Cool looking lines :great:
Did you already install the steering rack? Install the fuel line? Those go in before the front subframe.
Quote from: 94touring on August 18, 2025, 07:49:50 PMThat's where the T fitting goes. Cool looking lines :great:
Did you already install the steering rack? Install the fuel line? Those go in before the front subframe.
Thanks!
The steering rack is in place.
As for the fuel line, would it be a hard line or a flex line that goes through the front subframe into the pump?
Also for the lifting brackets, any problems if I loosen and bolt them to the head studs? Which particular two studs should I use?
I run a hard line as far as I can then at a convenient spot switch to rubber. Make it a place you can get your hands on should you need to replace the rubber line someday.
For engine lifting, I use exhaust studs, alternator studs/bracket, and engine steady studs/bracket.
Quote from: scalpel_ninja on August 18, 2025, 09:43:38 PMAs for the fuel line, would it be a hard line or a flex line that goes through the front subframe into the pump?
My brake lines are different, but here you can see where I routed the fuel hardline. There ends up being a fairly short rubber hose from that to the pump, another short hose from the pump to another hard line that goes along the firewall to the carb.
Tell us more about those brake lines, they look interesting and I haven't seen those before. Where do you get them?
As for the lifting straps, the furthest ends would be the ones I'd use. Putting them there tilts the engine backwards so the final drive will go down into the hole first, assuming you're going to drop it in from the top. If you're going to pull it up from the bottom I would do as Dan says and use a light chain from the far left exhaust stud (as you face the engine) to the alternator bracket.
If you're going in from the top you'll need to have the radiator off, if coming up from below it's no problem.
Edit: took a better look at your pics, the subframe is already in place so you're going in from the top, so take the radiator off, and you def want to remove the distributor cap and wires. You might have an interference with the oil filter too as the engine is tipped over some as it goes in. I've had better luck with the chain from the exhaust to the alt bracket when going in from the top......
What exhaust are you using? Be sure to put it in before you install the axles, sometimes there's an interference there too
Quote from: MiniDave on August 19, 2025, 07:31:30 AMTell us more about those brake lines, they look interesting and I haven't seen those before. Where do you get them?
As for the lifting straps, the furthest ends would be the ones I'd use. Putting them there tilts the engine backwards so the final drive will go down into the hole first, assuming you're going to drop it in from the top. If you're going to pull it up from the bottom I would do as Dan says and use a light chain from the far left exhaust stud (as you face the engine) to the alternator bracket.
If you're going in from the top you'll need to have the radiator off, if coming up from below it's no problem.
Edit: took a better look at your pics, the subframe is already in place so you're going in from the top, so take the radiator off, and you def want to remove the distributor cap and wires. You might have an interference with the oil filter too as the engine is tipped over some as it goes in. I've had better luck with the chain from the exhaust to the alt bracket when going in from the top......
What exhaust are you using? Be sure to put it in before you install the axles, sometimes there's an interference there too
Thanks for the information. Dang, that radiator was fiddly to put on, I'm dreading to mount it while it's inside the engine bay...
The brake lines are made by HEL Performance. They have ready-made kits and the sleeve color can be customized. I have the master cylinder to T kit and the front subframe kit in the photo. Mounted to the subframe are the disc brake lines (not listed on the website but one can call to order it). I also purchased the clutch master cylinder to slave cylinder line, as well as the rear hard line delete that will go from the proportioning valve directly to the drums. The only hard line would be the front T to the rear proportioning valve. This makes installation a whole lot easier with the rotatable fittings and banjo bolts.
They are pretty high quality but not really all that cheap LOL. I have the Mini Clutch line and a few other brake lines for the mini from them, but I initially discovered them when I was looking for custom PTFE brake lines for another project. They can build you pretty much whatever you want using various AN fittings, banjo fittings etc..pretty cool really when you are trying to replace old collapsed rubber lines on something that you can no longer find anymore.
I've been pulling mine with the radiator attached. I've been taking the alternator and distributor cap off, as well as taking the starter off. I haven't needed to take the oil filter off.
The axles are the biggest pain.
Lot's of carefulling.
I have done the engine in/out on my panel Van in the same manner as skmini described.
I use the outermost exhaust studs (at each end) as my attachment points for similar brackets.
Quote from: skmini on August 19, 2025, 02:24:28 PMI've been pulling mine with the radiator attached. I've been taking the alternator and distributor cap off, as well as taking the starter off. I haven't needed to take the oil filter off.
The axles are the biggest pain.
Lot's of carefulling.
Thank you for the information. I've seen other owners pull their motors with the radiator still attached. That's why I pre-installed mine. Hope it works out...
The alternator isn't installed yet, starter motor still needs to ordered, so that should just leave the distributor to be removed for clearance. The axles and hubs are still sitting in boxes.
Quote from: MPlayle on August 19, 2025, 05:06:58 PMI have done the engine in/out on my panel Van in the same manner as skmini described.
I use the outermost exhaust studs (at each end) as my attachment points for similar brackets.
Thanks! Honestly I would feel better if I didn't have to disturb the head bolts unless absolutely necessary. Using the exhaust studs sounds better to me. Though wouldn't this potentially tip the engine forward (exhaust side canted up) instead of the usually recommended tipping it backward (exhaust side canted down)?
I would have to look in the garage to be certain, but now I think about it I recall using three mounting points. The two outer exhaust studs and one of the alternator bracket bolts (on the front of the engine).
This kept it fairly level and still allowed me to tilt it enough to swing the final drive under.
Welp, the engine is in the bay!
(https://i.imgur.com/jrhsRWn.jpeg)
That looks terrific!
Should be running and driving late this afternoon then? :grin:
Quote from: MiniDave on August 25, 2025, 08:53:23 AMThat looks terrific!
Should be running and driving late this afternoon then? :grin:
One can dream... 😂
Got the outer CVs installed along with the hub and associated connections made.
(https://i.imgur.com/OUhbX3i.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rWh2U7J.jpeg)
Also dry fitted this front shock. Not sure if there's supposed to be any bushings for it on the studs? Seems to just slip on to be bolted down.
(https://i.imgur.com/6yym7JN.jpeg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ddde3Uc.jpeg)
And just for fun, I dry fitted the wheel. I think it's gonna look pretty good!
(https://i.imgur.com/UK8WYkL.jpeg)
Nice wheel! I like the flat rim on it.
Don't forget the Mr. Kotter pins on the big axle nuts......no bushings on the shock mounts, just big thin flat washers. I think the extra length is there because they used nylock nuts....
Quote from: MiniDave on September 30, 2025, 08:55:16 AMDon't forget the Mr. Kotter pins on the big axle nuts......no bushings on the shock mounts, just big thin flat washers. I think the extra length is there because they used nylock nuts....
Thank you! That's what I figured judging by how the shock just slips on. The manual that comes with the shock is just photos and quite confusing because they seem to illustrate installation of all different kinds of shocks (like coil overs) made by KYB, and not just this specific model.
Once I get tires on the wheel and the car on the ground, I'll make sure to torque to spec and install the cotter pins.
I was also reading a torque spec of caliper retaining bolts to hub should be 35-40 ft-lbs. Might be just in my head, but I was torquing with the torque wrench, but it started to feel plasticky around 25 ft-lbs and didn't go any further...
They're 3/8-24 bolts, so unless you're using hardware store grade 2 bolts they should easily tighten to 35-40. I used grade 8 on all suspension and brake hardware.
Thanks for the info. They are assembled with grade 8 bolts. I'll go back and check again this weekend. I had a bad experience with using a torque wrench in a Subaru suspension when swapping out a sway bar. Ended stripping the hole at just 25 ft-lbs.
In this case, the bolt isn't what I'm worried about. I'm afraid to strip the threads in the hub, if that's even possible.
I've always just made them good and tight. A lock washer and a bolt long enough to use up all the threads but short enough it doesn't hit the disc.
Is it possible your torque wrench is out of whack? Do you have a second torque wrench to check with?
Quote from: BruceK on September 30, 2025, 04:20:20 PMIs it possible your torque wrench is out of whack? Do you have a second torque wrench to check with?
I thought about that possibility, but I do test that it clicks by putting the square head in a bench vise and set it at a lower torque before I use it on the car. I was able to torque other bolts to 22-25 ft-lbs without issues. I wonder if it's just the angle at which I'm holding it makes the feeling a bit different...