Due to arrive soon

Started by 94touring, August 07, 2020, 01:46:39 PM

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94touring

Lugged the sheet metal for the tanks to the shop, only to discover they forgot a section of 2x4.  They were easy to work with on the phone and sending out the piece they forgot.  Got under the bus and took final measurements and looks like 36x16x4 will fit no problem.  That's right at 10 gallons.  Tried the amethyst again with a different dizzy but no dice.

94touring

Cb blackbox in and working.  Setting up the map and will clean up the harness.  Maybe the amethyst will work in the mini now since the electric module was creating interference issues and forced me to go back to a condenser and points.  Otherwise I'll just buy a 2nd blackbox and cut my losses with Aldon. 

The brake pads test will have to wait for another day. Weather has been crap.  I did pull an old pad out of curiosity and they are a brand name and labeled F.  Not sure if that's FF, EF, or FE.  So I guess the battle will be between F's and G's.  Something worth pointing out is the meat on the pads are about 1/3rd less with the bosch compared to the Zimmerman and drurid pads currently on there.  The rotors are in need of replacement as they have a good size groove worn down.  I went through a company called r1 concepts to buy some slotted and drilled rotors just for the heck of it, even though as I discussed in the brake coefficient thread they make little to no difference.  They showed up the other day however they sent me vanagon rotors which will not work.  Got off the phone with them a bit ago and had them send the dimensions for the rotors as I had schematics downloaded.  Found the proper set, so hopefully they get here sometime next month.

94touring

Ok black box in, map created, test drive checks 100%.  Even makes it up the one steep hill in 3rd, barely, whereas before I was shifting into second to crest the top. 

Tank just needs metal for the lid and some inlet and outlet pipes. Leak test was also 100% on the first run.  Phosphoric acid solution in the water. Made some baffles with what was leftover in scraps.

cstudep


BruceK

1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

94touring


BruceK

At least the colors match... ::)
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

cstudep

Quote from: BruceK on December 31, 2020, 08:59:13 PM
At least the colors match... ::)

however, the level of the white to blue transition line from the cab to the back portion does not appear to line up.

BruceK

That could be because it skipped the whole Type 2 bay window generation front to back!   
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

cstudep

I have no doubt that is probably part of the problem, but they still could have lined it up properly. It's not like it's off a lot, maybe an inch or so?

I agree that the idea in general was ill advised, but if your going to go to the trouble at least attempt to get some of the little things right.

94touring

Yesterday after my torque wrench died I needed to pick up a 27mm socket for the spindle nuts. The objective was to take the hubs off and determine what year spindles and king pin assembles I have.  Even though the bus is an 83 they used early bus parts as I earlier stated.  I'd like to go ahead and do bearings and the link pins since I need to take thing apart. My camber is off significantly from factory specs, wearing my tires on the insides, and the only way to adjust camber is by shims in the link pins.  Well I have 64-67 spindles.  Here are the king pins and the link pins slid out from the assembly to see what the deal with the shimming is.  Also a diagram explaining shims that correlate to camber.

94touring

Missing metal in the order arrived.  The wrong disc brakes that were sent to me were exchanged and should be ready for me to fit when I get back next week. 

94touring

This was as easy as the videos online made it look.   4 bolts and it slid right out.  I spent more time getting the bumper off than it took to get the motor out.

Willie_B

I recall pulling the engine in my '67 bug when in high school. No fancy tools or such. When it was time to actually pull/drop it I was on a creeper with a board on my chest. Me and buddy pulled it and lowered on my chest. He then pulled both out from under the bug. Things you survived while young...

94touring

Yeah didn't drop it on my chest lol.  Simply picked up the transaxle though. Cleaning it up to send out for new gears and seals.

cstudep

If only all motors were so easily replaced.

94touring

No kidding! 

Back to the fuel tank.  Due to various body frame parts in the way I can only go 17 gallons on the main tank.  There's a lip on the face of the floor that the tank sits on you have to get up and over which really limits height and then some frame work to go between to set the tank on the floor which limits width.  But still will give me over 4 gallons more than what the tank was I pulled out.  Combined with the aux tank that's approximately twice the volume it had.  13ish gallons to about 27 gallons.  Also discovered the top of the tank had a leak where an overflow tube connects from the filler neck.

94touring

Got the tank shaped.  Had to tweak it even more than planned to work with the curve in the panel it sits up against.  It's very snug!   Volume comes out to a little over 16 gallons all said and done. 

BruceK

Looks like it belongs there.    What color is it going to be?
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

94touring

Oh I'll paint it black.  I got the top welded on the aux tank. Have a few pesky pin holes I'm chasing, which is crazy considering how meticulous with the welding I was.

94touring

Couple side by side to the old.

94touring

Aux tank installed.  Need to pull it and paint it.  Made a little platform for the fuel pump to sit on, and lowered it slightly to 100% gravity feed to the pump.  You can somewhat see it in the photo.  If for some reason I hit it on something it will just bend up and not damage anything, though it all sits really high.  Have a vent pipe that will need to be run to the main tank vent line.  Filling the tank up is a slow process without the vent line when I was testing for leaks.  I mounted the tank to the frame by making legs from square steel that extend from each corner, welding a face to them, which then bolt to the frame.  I think on the main tank I will install a stand pipe in the tank 4.5 inches tall or 8 gallons deep to gravity fill the aux tank while filling.  Even though it's a 3/4" ID line to the aux tank it's not going to be optimal for filling at the base of the filler neck as planned.  I figure this way I can fill the tank up, let it gravity fill for a moment, then top it off.  Otherwise I can see myself standing there slowly clicking the handle to the pump 100 times. 

94touring

Just got the new sending unit in for the main tank. Made sure to get one with matching ohms of course. The sending unit on the old tank wouldn't transfer over, not easily anyways. 

94touring

Moving along on the main tank today.  Got the stand pipe installed, decided to go with 10 gallons depth instead of 8.  The gravity feed lines are in place.  Made some cuts to bend and create a low area to feed to the gravity pickup to the fuel pump.   And the sender unit is in, just need to hook it up to verify it reads accurately.  Next up is welding on the ends, vent pipe, feed in from aux tank, and filler neck. 

Oh and it test fits still.  It's tight clearing the sensor and the stand pipe outlet.

MiniDave

What is the star weld for on the bottom?
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad