85 tahiti blue (flur continued)

[94touring]

Swapped the wiper and parts over after taking the guts out of the other one to swap to the new motor.  Cleaned up the arm gears and lubed things up.  We finally have the correct steering wheel boss.  I also put on new stalks since the other ones had some cracks and a couple loose wires dangling.  Fiddling with the brake lines.  I had a T fitting but the ends to the two lines that are suppose to go into the proportioning valve are different, so I'm going to have to keep working on that.  Need to source new fittings for the fuel lines that tap into the manifold, didn't notice before but the metal pipes that tap into it were twisted badly at the fittings.  And had I thought about it ahead of time I would have done the crank sensor while the engine was out, I ended up taking the starter motor off to get to the two tiny bolts holding it on. 

[Davisio]

And the gauges are in!

4.gif

Dang that steering wheel looks good against that dash with those gauges.

[94touring]

Brake line problem solved.   I got a flair tool and made the lines myself..  The fuel lines are still an issue.   Went all over town looking for a fitting and nothing yet.  Exhaust and shift linkage in, duct work and fuel tank up next.   

[MtyMous]

What tool did you use for your flare tool? Just a regular old harbor freight double flare tool?

[94touring]

I went to the autozone and used one of theirs.  The T-fitting I had didn't accept the fitting that come from the back to the front and from the front subframe.  Those fittings are slightly different and are meant for the booster.  Then the next issue was I found a perfect length of pipe that was pre flared with fittings to go from the master to the T fitting, but one of the fittings was short on the threads and wouldn't work either, so cut that end off and flared it again with a fitting from the scrap pile that would work.  I spent a large bulk of the day getting all that taken care of.  This fuel line is bugging me, I tried to flare the existing pipe that was twisted up and its so close to working but the flare needs more meat behind it for the coupling to push it up against the fitting in the manifold.  I was able to gently untwist one of the metal fuel fittings that wasn't as bad, but the one was toast. 

[MtyMous]

Don't worry. I'll do all of that on Tink. haha. I'll be the one cursing into the middle of the night about flares and fittings.

[Mudhen]

I have this on my list of things to buy...

http://www.eastwood.com/professional-brake-tubing-flaring-tool.html

[94touring]

Wow I like that!

Moving along slowly but steady.  The fuel line is a no go, probably gona have to order a new one.  I did get in the tank, hooked up the rest of the fuel lines, new fuel pump, secured the master cylinders, ran the braided line for the clutch, got the harness in and started hooking stuff up.  Replaced all the old cracked vacuum lines.  I have one electrical plug that goes to a sensor in the intake that was frayed/broken, so I need to get that sorted also.  The car won't run without it.  Got the rear lights wired and need to work on the fronts, as well as the rally lights.  Hoping to get them and the gauges wired up tomorrow.  Need to research a little on that tonight.  All and all its coming along.  A bit aggravating at times.  I would imagine that with all the replaced lines and a few of the electrical problems I've found it should run good when its all said and done.     

[94touring]

What a day.  First I was able to solve the fuel line fitting problem.  Got a 5/16th pre flared brake line (same size as the fuel line coincidently), cut it, got a 5/16th feral, pressed it down till it was flush with the flare, thus giving my enough bite with the fitting that presses the flare into the manifold.  Then I fixed the one broken electrical plug, or fabricated a new one rather.  Then the day took a turn.  I couldn't figure out where the adapter for the water temp gauge was.  On the SPI's turns out they are underneath the manifold...who knew, not me.  This was problematic because I couldn't get my hand in there to get it and another plug and another fitting on.  So took the manifold off again.  Then I was looking at the fitting where the coolant lines run into the manifold and this is what I came up with after I started poking it...



So I sat there cussing at it for awhile, then got creative and fixed it.



I also dropped my phone and broke that, which was nice. 

[94touring]

[94touring]

http://youtu.be/qrYC1jCdq2g

[94touring]

Well she runs.  Lights work, horn works, wipers work, and I'm sure other things work too.  Got the clutch bled, but guess what, the brake master was a slightly used spare I had sitting on the shelf, it doesn't work.  Sat too long I guess.  So I get to take the sumbitch back out and put in a brand spanking new one.  Sometimes life just isn't fair.  Took me awhile to get spark, then I remembered OH yeah its fuel injection and has one of those ignition/fuel cutoff switches.   

[Davisio]

It's alive!

[Mudhen]

I'm pretty much putting you in the category of a magician with some of the stuff you pull off....awesome hearing it run!  4.gif

And what's the weather like there?  I thought I'd see snow...-4 here this morning - trying to figure out how warm I need the garage in order to put some primer down.  Actually, not how warm does the air have to be - but how warm does the car have to be and how much money will it cost me to get it there...

[94touring]

Until yesterday its been painfully cold, although working in the paint booth with a shop light its been warm enough I'm just wearing a t shirt in there.  Yesterday it was up in the 60's and I think its suppose to stay that way for a few days at least.  I must say that the paint booth is one of the best investments for work space I have ever made.  In the summer with the AC going it was nice and cool, and now in the winter warm.  Plus I can paint in it too, kind of important.  I plan on covering the walls with 6 mil plastic when I get a chance so I can wash them down to keep it that much more dust free and sterile for when I paint.  So your question was how warm does it need to be to primer...well you can do it cold if you must, 50ish or so.  I wouldn't paint a car that cold, but primer to keep it sealed isn't going to hurt anything.  It will run easier because its not going to dry as quickly so keep that in mind.  Cost wise if you buy a gallon of sealer and activator, $150 give or take on what brand you buy.  If its bare metal just buy a quart of say Nason epoxy sealer and one quart of the activator (its 1:1) and that should cover the entire thing with a light coat.  Then Spray it down with filler primer after it flashes for sanding later.  And yes I'm a magician.   

[pbraun]

Nice!  I should be seam sealing and priming soon!

[94touring]

Got the new master cylinder in.  Went to bleed the fronts and the bleed screw  on the right broke off and the left wont' budge either.   11.gif   :-[  So next week I suppose I'll take the calipers off and use a different pair.  Note to self, check bleed screws before putting old calipers on in the future.

[94touring]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4XO1IuRCbGk&feature=youtu.be

[Davisio]

Woohoo!

From "alive"! to "yard driver"!

[94touring]

Not bad camera man work for one hand and no foot brakes. 

[Mudhen]

Until yesterday its been painfully cold, although working in the paint booth with a shop light its been warm enough I'm just wearing a t shirt in there.  Yesterday it was up in the 60's and I think its suppose to stay that way for a few days at least.  I must say that the paint booth is one of the best investments for work space I have ever made.  In the summer with the AC going it was nice and cool, and now in the winter warm.  Plus I can paint in it too, kind of important.  I plan on covering the walls with 6 mil plastic when I get a chance so I can wash them down to keep it that much more dust free and sterile for when I paint.  So your question was how warm does it need to be to primer...well you can do it cold if you must, 50ish or so.  I wouldn't paint a car that cold, but primer to keep it sealed isn't going to hurt anything.  It will run easier because its not going to dry as quickly so keep that in mind.  Cost wise if you buy a gallon of sealer and activator, $150 give or take on what brand you buy.  If its bare metal just buy a quart of say Nason epoxy sealer and one quart of the activator (its 1:1) and that should cover the entire thing with a light coat.  Then Spray it down with filler primer after it flashes for sanding later.  And yes I'm a magician.

Actually, was more concerned about how much money it was going to cost to heat up the garage.  I can put the propane heater on (just spent $700 on 1 tank of oil for the house - no way am I turning the thermostat up out there) and get it to 50 in 5 minutes - but the body is still 34 - that ok or should I wait for a bit?  I'm probably over thinking it again...

[94touring]

34 is a tad too cold, you wouldn't want it freezing before it dries.  We have one of these that takes kerosene and will heat up the paint booth if I had to in about 3 seconds.  They've been using it in the main shop area to keep it tolerable when its freezing out.  200 bucks or so and kerosene is 4-6 bucks a gallon depending where you get it.   

 

[94touring]

Almost have the spot lamps finished up.  We had an ice storm and it's stupid cold so I wasn't exactly moving fast today.

[94touring]

We have lights. 

[Davisio]

Awesome!

So how are you wiring the switches for 'em?
Do you remember what we discussed in July? Do I remember what we discussed in July?

Eh. Bottom line is I can't run all six forward lights at the same time. Max 4. So.... I shall assume a separate switch from the headlamps? That'll work.