What did you do in your shop today?

Started by MiniDave, September 23, 2018, 11:30:15 AM

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cstudep and 4 Guests are viewing this topic.

MPlayle

Until you are faced with mandatory emissions testing as the San Antonio area will be beginning November this year.  Any CEL light or code is an immediate fail and has to be corrected and reinspected before you can renew your registration.

Thankfully, anything 25 years or older is exempt.  Our classic Minis get a pass.

1983 Mini Panel Van
2025 Triking Type 3
2024 Subaru Crosstrek

94touring

Also my big floor jack died.  Which made getting the truck off the jack stands tricky. 

MiniDave

Boy do I have a deal for you!

I don't remember if it's a 3 ton or 4 ton, but it sure makes it easy to get under a big car or truck to the diff to lift them!

It's too big for anything I have, so we can talk - I just want it out of my basement.



Complete failure at retirement - but getting better!

1972 Mini Racing Green
1972 Mini ST hotrod
2017 Audi Allroad - Glacier White - His
2018 Audi Allroad - Floret Silver - Hers

94touring

Oh I immediately ordered a new 3 ton off Amazon that will be at my place by Monday.  I thought about driving to HF or Northern Tool to grab one in person but I don't feel like carrying it to my truck.

cstudep

Quote from: 94touring on July 01, 2026, 12:01:39 PMI've only got 157k on it.  These engines are good for 3x or more from what I've read.

Rear brakes gone through. Only took 4 hours. There's 3 points of adjustment to them.  I did everything as a YouTube guy explained and wouldn't you know it the thing brakes better now!  I've only been driving it 10 years or more out of adjustment.  :embarrassed:
Only 157k! Yeah you have a lot of life left in that one. I have 240k on mine and it runs like new. Know a guy that has slightly over 500k on one. Its a darn near indesteuctible motor if you keep up on the routine maintenance.

Mine was an Arizona truck prior to me getting it and I fluid film the underside, rockers, behind the bed sides, etc..so there in nearly zero rust anywhere on it. I also try to avoid driving it as much as possible in the winter salt.

Care to share the vid on the brakes? Curious now if I have done it correctly.



94touring

The frame on mine only has minor rust here and there.  Probably wouldn't be a bad idea for me to treat it at some point but we don't have salt here.

The thing he doesn't show in the video is the hand brake cable needs adjusted after you do the other 2 spots on the drums.  The handbrake adjuster is about midway up the truck.  After I got the drums adjusted and the cable hooked up, it was engaging the handbrake. Once I backed off the handbrake adjuster everything was good to go. There's also the rear bias adjuster.  I added more to the rear on that too. Mine was set almost all the way to the bottom.  Slamming on the brakes testing them nothing locked up on me and the rear end wasn't squirrelly. Definitely more pedal response now.




Jims5543

Quote from: 94touring on July 01, 2026, 12:01:39 PMI've only got 157k on it.  These engines are good for 3x or more from what I've read.

Rear brakes gone through. Only took 4 hours. There's 3 points of adjustment to them.  I did everything as a YouTube guy explained and wouldn't you know it the thing brakes better now!  I've only been driving it 10 years or more out of adjustment.  :embarrassed:

My FJ started throwing the Cat code around 175K miles, TBH, it was the most rock solid vehicle I have ever owned until it hit about 200K miles.  Then it started to need things.

I am on my 3rd Alternator and I recently had to rebuild the entire front suspension, new upper and lower control arms new tie rod ends and sway bar links up front. Both CV Axles too. In the grand scheme of things, at 230K miles, that is not much, the engine and transmission are perfect.
I have not looked to see what kind of shape the rear is in.

I did all the shocks at 200K miles, I switched to the Bilstein 5100's since all the cool kids on the FJ Forum swear by them and wished I stayed with the OEM style, she rode a lot better, the 5100's are way softer, perfect when I am off pavement, it rides like a dinghy when on the pavement.  Dives under braking, lifts up under acceleration. 

Bummer with the floor jack, what did you do to get it off the jack stands?  I am guessing you used your gantry to get it off them.
Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming "Wow! What a Ride! -Hunter S. Thompson

94touring

I had to stack 4x4s and 2x4s and then use a small floor jack I have. 

94touring

Quote from: Jims5543 on Today at 03:05:27 AM
Quote from: 94touring on July 01, 2026, 12:01:39 PMI've only got 157k on it.  These engines are good for 3x or more from what I've read.

Rear brakes gone through. Only took 4 hours. There's 3 points of adjustment to them.  I did everything as a YouTube guy explained and wouldn't you know it the thing brakes better now!  I've only been driving it 10 years or more out of adjustment.  :embarrassed:

My FJ started throwing the Cat code around 175K miles, TBH, it was the most rock solid vehicle I have ever owned until it hit about 200K miles.  Then it started to need things.

I am on my 3rd Alternator and I recently had to rebuild the entire front suspension, new upper and lower control arms new tie rod ends and sway bar links up front. Both CV Axles too. In the grand scheme of things, at 230K miles, that is not much, the engine and transmission are perfect.
I have not looked to see what kind of shape the rear is in.

I did all the shocks at 200K miles, I switched to the Bilstein 5100's since all the cool kids on the FJ Forum swear by them and wished I stayed with the OEM style, she rode a lot better, the 5100's are way softer, perfect when I am off pavement, it rides like a dinghy when on the pavement.  Dives under braking, lifts up under acceleration. 

Bummer with the floor jack, what did you do to get it off the jack stands?  I am guessing you used your gantry to get it off them.

I did price out lower and upper front arms.  I could just replace the bushings but almost seems to make sense just replacing them. They do have some rust on them too. That might be a 200k mile thing I do. Looking into aluminum radiators as I know it's only a matter of time before the stock plastic one cracks. The rest is mainly cosmetic. The paint is starting to look bad, clear peeling.  Front and rear bumpers bumped something prior to me owning it. I can buy new for about $350-400 for both. 

94touring

Another shop thing yesterday while I'm drinking coffee at home thinking before going back to the shop.  I fired my lawn guy who was slowly but rapidly ripping me and the neighbor off, so we both fired him.  I have a push mower I bought forever ago to do it myself and so there is was pushing that thing in 95 degree heat yesterday in knee deep grass trying not to stall it out. Still only takes me 30-45 minutes to do the front that needs cut, and I could use the exercise.  Sitting on my patio post mow was getting annoyed with all the mosquitoes and bugs this year. Then a pest control guy came rolling up on some Segway looking thing and so I bought a monthly subscription for him to get rid of all the ants, wasp, spiders, and fingers crossed mosquitoes which was the upgraded kill those fuckers package.  He was thrown off my house is all shop.  I explained I paint cars in there and keeping the mosquitoes out of the paint would be problematic this year.  I keep my area sterile but without fail 1 makes it's way into the booth when I'm spraying.