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#81
Maintenance and Modifications / Re: Qs about What machine work...
Last post by DarkHelmet - April 11, 2026, 06:48:43 PMThe shop I'm taking the midget race head to has what I believe is a 1275 completed head a customer left him with he's trying to get rid of. Stainless big valve, said chrome springs? Not ported tho....but it would be great for a 60 over motor. 1200. A touch off clean up in ports would perhaps be really nice
#82
Maintenance and Modifications / Re: Qs about What machine work...
Last post by DarkHelmet - April 11, 2026, 06:45:49 PMI'll see how the crank specs out first. My rods are heavy but easy to balance and free so far.
#83
Maintenance and Modifications / Re: Qs about What machine work...
Last post by 94touring - April 11, 2026, 06:30:21 PMI think these omega pistons are the short style for 6" rods.
https://www.swiftune.com/parts-shop/pistons/omega-lightweight-forged-1275-race-piston-set.html
https://usa.minisport.com/omega-short-height-forged-pistons-for-mini-1275cc-engines.html
https://www.swiftune.com/parts-shop/pistons/omega-lightweight-forged-1275-race-piston-set.html
https://usa.minisport.com/omega-short-height-forged-pistons-for-mini-1275cc-engines.html
#84
Maintenance and Modifications / Re: Qs about What machine work...
Last post by 94touring - April 11, 2026, 06:23:10 PMLooks like specialist components has rods too and a bit more affordable. 6" rods I think and if you can find a "short" piston works out. I know Calvert and others offer short pistons but not sure if it's only in 73mm+ form.
#85
Maintenance and Modifications / Re: Qs about What machine work...
Last post by 94touring - April 11, 2026, 06:08:27 PMIt's been a minute since I did the math and research, but someplace like KAD has S rods in different lengths. You can choose the length that matches the stroke so your deck height is perfect or close to perfect. Most likely not cheap rods but neither were the stroker X beam rods for my VW. Otherwise you have to shave the top of the pistons, which is what my stroker 1425cc motor had done.
#86
Maintenance and Modifications / Re: Qs about What machine work...
Last post by DarkHelmet - April 11, 2026, 05:54:56 PMS rods, the AEG-521? Or something else recommended?
#87
Maintenance and Modifications / Re: Qs about What machine work...
Last post by 94touring - April 11, 2026, 03:30:44 PMHeck if the crank needs work and you want light non boat anchor rods, get the S rods and stroke the crank with the 60 over pistons. Keep the compression up in the 10:3 area, you're at elevation so easily handles it. Would be a torque monster with a good head on it. It would become a 1380cc.
#88
Maintenance and Modifications / Re: Qs about What machine work...
Last post by MiniDave - April 11, 2026, 03:23:32 PMI like to go up in compression to give the car more response and torque, so I'd do the +60's and go with the 10.3:1 compression. I love to spend other people's money!!! 
#89
Maintenance and Modifications / Re: Qs about What machine work...
Last post by DarkHelmet - April 11, 2026, 01:06:52 PMThanks Dave.
I finally got to measuring the 1310 used block I have. It mic'd out at basicly 2.8221 to 2.227" front /back and left/right each cylinder top and bottom areas of travel. This after the drill stone+wd40 hone I did a while ago when I got it last summer. I cant feel with fingernail or finger the top ring but its like a semi-visible shadow. Anyway, given the piston measurement of 2.8184 (ae21253 +.040 9.75:1 cr)and doing math, the cylinders are 0.004"+ over the piston measure which I believe falls withint he maximum piston to wall clearance. The cylinders all measure very close and appear by those numbers they are decently round and only vary by .0005 at most and not really at all tapered, some reflecting same numbers top to bottom. It's just they might be at the maximum bore for this .040 piston. In theory I could make sure I have a nice cylinder wall pattern and ring them up and put them in after I get the crank ground to the new undersize, but it would be at the limit of doing that I guess.
Or, get 60's and bore it. knowing I would be at about .135" between middle cylinders and safe.
I finally got to measuring the 1310 used block I have. It mic'd out at basicly 2.8221 to 2.227" front /back and left/right each cylinder top and bottom areas of travel. This after the drill stone+wd40 hone I did a while ago when I got it last summer. I cant feel with fingernail or finger the top ring but its like a semi-visible shadow. Anyway, given the piston measurement of 2.8184 (ae21253 +.040 9.75:1 cr)and doing math, the cylinders are 0.004"+ over the piston measure which I believe falls withint he maximum piston to wall clearance. The cylinders all measure very close and appear by those numbers they are decently round and only vary by .0005 at most and not really at all tapered, some reflecting same numbers top to bottom. It's just they might be at the maximum bore for this .040 piston. In theory I could make sure I have a nice cylinder wall pattern and ring them up and put them in after I get the crank ground to the new undersize, but it would be at the limit of doing that I guess.
Or, get 60's and bore it. knowing I would be at about .135" between middle cylinders and safe.
#90
The Lounge / Re: Tig Welders
Last post by 94touring - April 10, 2026, 03:45:58 PMThis is what the internet says. I use 75/25 on thin sheet without any issues. 20 gauge is pretty easy to burn holes through if you're heavy on the trigger.