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#21

The Lounge / Re: Soliciting thoughts & opin...

Last post by MPlayle - September 07, 2026, 12:34:42 PM

So I would have to tear it all apart in order to determine what may be needed before ordering parts?

Kind of something I was hoping to avoid if possible.  But, that is why I started this thread - to get input and find out what sort of effort I would be facing.

#22

The Lounge / Re: Soliciting thoughts & opin...

Last post by 94touring - September 07, 2026, 12:03:15 PM

Yes it's the stroker crank for a 998, so there may need to be thicker gasket and or block decking required to get proper deck height for piston to head clearance. Or you figure out what rods make it perfect without needing thicker head gaskets or block decking.  Benefits are low end torque increase where you want it.

#23

The Lounge / Re: Soliciting thoughts & opin...

Last post by MPlayle - September 07, 2026, 11:57:02 AM

Are the connecting rods the same between a 998 and 1098?

#24

The Lounge / Re: Soliciting thoughts & opin...

Last post by 94touring - September 07, 2026, 10:16:37 AM

If you do tear down what you have, get the 1098 crank, add the cam, measure measure and triple measure deck heights, chamber volumes, piston dish volume, ect to know exactly what your compression ratio is. If you do a basic compression test you'll have a rough idea what you currently have.  Tosssing on a stage 3 head may have a radically different chamber volume than stock.  These details matter.

#25

The Lounge / Re: Soliciting thoughts & opin...

Last post by 94touring - September 07, 2026, 10:09:10 AM

To get what you want will take time and money is all. Dropping in a turn key 1275+ power house with a 2.95 or 3.10 would be the easiest way. 

#26

The Lounge / Re: Soliciting thoughts & opin...

Last post by MPlayle - September 07, 2026, 08:40:18 AM

I am trying to keep cost effectiveness and ease of implementation in mind with this latest effort.

The goal is to have an engine that will confidently pull hills while providing decent highway capability/comfort and retain reasonable reliability.

One of the current issues is the non-standard drop gears.  They shift the effective behavior of the final drive down one rating.  Examples: the originally installed 3.44 set acted like a 3.76; the currently installed 3.105 set acts like a 3.2.  If I install a 2.95, it will act like a 3.1 and installing a 2.76 will act like a 2.95.

I did not know it had the non-standard drop gears until after the change to the 3.1 final drive when I did not get the expected 3.1 behavior I really wanted.  The performance of the current setup is basically adequate, but really needs just a little more "grunt" for the hills based on having the current configuration for a few years.  The better highway behavior would be a nice addition.

To get the originally desired 3.1 behavior, I need to either change the drop gears to standard (1:1), or put in a 2.95.  Either of which will mean the extra "grunt" will become more necessary.  Thus this discussion for reasoable ways to achieve the desired results ("grunt" for hills and comfort for highways).

All that said, as far as I know it is still the factory 9.4 compression of the latter series 998s.

Is it possible to just change the cam without totally gutting the insides of the block?

#27

The Lounge / Re: Soliciting thoughts & opin...

Last post by 94touring - September 06, 2026, 06:20:26 PM

If you have a small bore stage 3 head with bigger valves you really need the cam to go with it. You might actually be a bit soggy down low with a stock cam on a performance head with bigger valves, though the 1.4s will help a little.  Adding a nice street cam like a 266 or evo1, both would work great with 1.4 rockers, simultaneously going taller on the gears will make it feel equally "slow".  You'll utilize 3rd gear a lot to pull hills.  3.1 or your 3.2 is a great compromise as is for doing highway speeds.  To run a 2.76 in my humble opinion takes a large bore with power or better yet a turbo.  I'm not a fan of taller gears because it's just lazy feeling to me in a mini.  I still want a 5 speed for the best of both worlds.  Also what's your compression ratio?  Bump it up to about 10:1 with the cams listed above. If you're running low compression right now that alone will liven it up. 

#28

The Lounge / Re: Soliciting thoughts & opin...

Last post by cstudep - September 06, 2026, 03:05:38 PM

Yeah the Honda swaps are pretty spendy these days, probably the most expensive option actually. Just a worn out v-tec with transmission is getting pretty costly these days.

#29

The Lounge / Re: Soliciting thoughts & opin...

Last post by MPlayle - September 06, 2026, 12:28:06 PM

With all the work you have already done to the 998 engine I think I'd lean toward adding the turbo. Expensive but a 1275 upgrade will be as well. I suppose the advantage of the 1275 upgrade is the potential to sell the 998 to recoup some cost, but I don't know what the demand is for such things. Generally speaking if someone is going to buy an entire engine, its likely going to be of the 1275 variety.

Those were some of my thoughts as well.  I am also inclined to think the cost of rebuilding/enhancing the 998 (non-turbo approach) will likely be about the same as the turbo kit (pistons, rings, bearings, cam, machine shop work).  I am not really into the Honda engine swaps and those tend to be spendy as well.

#30

The Lounge / Re: Soliciting thoughts & opin...

Last post by cstudep - September 06, 2026, 10:33:56 AM

With all the work you have already done to the 998 engine I think I'd lean toward adding the turbo. Expensive but a 1275 upgrade will be as well. I suppose the advantage of the 1275 upgrade is the potential to sell the 998 to recoup some cost, but I don't know what the demand is for such things. Generally speaking if someone is going to buy an entire engine, its likely going to be of the 1275 variety.