Rear swing arms?

Started by sparetimetoys, June 19, 2014, 07:07:51 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

sparetimetoys

So I'm trying to get the wheels off of the back of the parts car so it can go to its new home. I have drilled out the wheel lugs and ran a reamer to take out the threads from what's left of the wheel lug nuts. These wheels are seized onto the hubs. My thought is to pull the swing arm off and take into work and use the drill press to remove a little more of the stud/ lugnut combo then use the press in the center of the wheel trying to UN stick it. From what I see there is just the shock and the four bolts on the front holding it in correct?
Home of Global Warmer Racing. Saving the smog one car at a time.

Tim

Maybe I'm not understanding exactly what you've already done, but if the nuts are now drilled through (off) can't you place a 2x4 across the back of the tire/rim and then hit it with a large hammer to knock the rim loose?

This usually works for me.

Tim.

sparetimetoys

Quote from: Tim on June 19, 2014, 07:49:25 PM
Maybe I'm not understanding exactly what you've already done, but if the nuts are now drilled through (off) can't you place a 2x4 across the back of the tire/rim and then hit it with a large hammer to knock the rim loose?

This usually works for me.

Tim.

I have been pounding on that rim with a 10 pound dead blow and no luck.
Home of Global Warmer Racing. Saving the smog one car at a time.

tsumini

#3
yeah two nuts at the front where grease zerk is. Have to take off the metal plate with the hole for the grease zerk. These bolts may twist off if corroded. Then  shock. Remove/cut brake line. Remove hand brake cable. Mine had clevis at the brake assy. Not sure if the knuckle will be free from the trumpet though. May have to compress the rubber cones first.

Or you may want to pull the bearing and hub/wheel as a unit. Remove dust cover, cotter pin and undo castellated nut. One or the other bearing castellated nut is LH thread. May need bearing puller too. If ball bearing the balls may fall out from one side. Should be easier unless bearing is seized too.

tsumini

Maybe this pic will help. Forgot the bracket bolted to subframe at end with gease zerk.

sparetimetoys

One down. I had to see how they fit with my finned rear drums. Looks like the thin flares that came with my car will be good enough.
Home of Global Warmer Racing. Saving the smog one car at a time.

sparetimetoys

Success all finished getting parts I needed. She is ready for pickup. Now to put stuff up and get my daughter her parking spot back
Home of Global Warmer Racing. Saving the smog one car at a time.

Mudhen

Coincidentally, I'm struggling with some of this right now, too.  My question is...what is really worth saving out of the whole thing?

I can't get one of the drums off at all...can't get the brake adjuster to move.  So thinking, is there really anything I'd want anyway??  Backing plate for the brakes and swingarm?  Everything else will be new, right?

94touring

I've gotten into the habit of just buying new rear brake assemblies.   It's quick and easy.

sparetimetoys

Those arms and brakes are going with the car. The second one probably could have stayed on the car. I only pulled it because the problems with the first. I used the impact and while it took some beating all the lugs came out with out snapping off. On the old dog I'm putting the disc brakes on the front 1 because it needs front brakes and these came with it and 2 no one purchased them when I listed them on MM
Home of Global Warmer Racing. Saving the smog one car at a time.