Project 66' Moke: The Start of something fun!

Started by jedduh01, April 22, 2013, 06:29:19 PM

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clm

Those pictures look good and horrific all at the same time! I only bolted the sides on as I was running out of time and needed to get the car driving, I do plan to weld them on eventually :)

Chris

jedduh01

#26
Soldiering along--- Drivers side Continues. More of the metal patches needed  for the inner walls  - floor is taken out and rear heel board needs a patch along with the toe board section.

Sorry all the pictures are left right and upside down- Couldn't control that on the upload.

The LH side disassembly went very well - Kept most of the outer box together while i drilled out the floor spot welds from inside of the box .. Saved that whole outer box, Great condition. Only needed floorboard replaced. and outer panel from spotty rot!

Spent some time with grinder on the RH side where complete- Hit the high spots with the rough wheel, and then smoothed rather nicely on the low spots- Touch of primer to keep covered- Few more spots to just go over for final touches-  Alot more to do on the inner body-but that grinder is NOISY - Earplugs for sure!
 
I also picked up a Harbor Freight - 9$ 4.5 Grinder - WheW  I LOVE That tool - Lighter weight - Easy to handle, Just fine on power-   HIGHLY recommended.


I was held back this weekend by my wifes car -- Torrential rains + Blocked sunroof drains = Flooded interior.
Luckily no electrical failures (yet) but had to strip out the entire interior to dry out the under foam that is like a SPONGE!
  Hopefully have her car back together early this week for more Moke progress for the long weekend!

clm

Did you get the one with the flap trigger or the on off switch?

If you didn't get it, I would suggest getting the one with the flap trigger, it shuts off when it leaps out of your hand unexpectedly! I find it nicer and safer then the ones that stay on when it leaves your hand.

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-half-inch-angle-grinder-with-paddle-switch-65519.html

Chris

jedduh01

I would say I lucked out and picked the one with the Flap Switch - I know what you mean - Griders JUMP out of your hands and need easy shutoff sometime .

My wife asked "what can i do to help"   She doesn't like welding sparks, UV light for her eyes, and searing molten metal on the skin  .... So I said " just wait you have a hot date coming with a grinder!!    I think two grinders running together will get the whole thing smoothed out QUICKLY.   

More progress photos to come.

jedduh01

Slow this week- 4th family time - working some each evening -- moving along

Engine block is under paint along with some accessories.  Engine assembly  parts are on the way - Bearings and Rings and seals.  Will probabaly wait until moke body is at a painter to actually put together engine and trans assy,



Making progress on LH Floorboard. Heel Board patch - in and solid



Floor fits tight and well.




Put in place -



Front side outer closer panel - MUCH Easier second time around for fitting and matching the other side.




Other side looks pRETTY GOOD



and finally-  since the floor is in place- the rear 4 inches of the tunnel hump were realy bad ..

made bent my own patch for that - Not the cleanest- but It'll do.








jedduh01

Long weekend- Whats the best thing to do - - Work on a Moke!

Metal progress continues. Front toe board Complete- final.  Rear Heel complete- Final. OH - i guess that means the floors are DONE!!  WEll mostly  Spent some time with the grinder.. tidyed up many spots- but also found a few spots that need a few touchups- Couple gaps., Couple holes.. No worries.  Did blow thru the rear tunnel hump in a spot - *thinner than thought- So that will require a patch .
   








After grinder time - and some primer on top.





Wife's ready to ride!




Now on to the rear load floor- !    Whew . its a PAIN -- Double welded on the Flat lip, and the Bend up lip, So double the welds.

ALso a few brackets on the underside that i cut around to leave in place to mock up next...





I got about half of the leftover "flange to get out - drilling spot welds .. the rear is toughest because cause the rear panel is thinner than rest and bends the most . Trying to not blow thru with the spot weld driller or the starter driller too, Thin in some places will take and require some small patches.

  ALso ran to Lowes-- more primer paint for backup . Picked up a can of "truck Bed Liner"  I know the fo pa's about using it, but i think it will be the best thing to spray the Inner panneir boxes and the floorboards to give the whole floor durability .. Im testing it now if it can be sprayed body color on top and left with texture underneath. 

Does anyone have experience with Gravitex?

http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/u-pol-gravitex-hs-stone-chip-protector-p-15137.aspx

Would be another optoin - Apply with their gun. any pointers Anyone?  The fact that is paintable is my primary reason for considering.


ALso while shopping- found that new Full Face shields are very Cheap!.. I've been cutting and welding for 3 years now with a 10 year old mask !  it was like looking thru a muddy window... New face shield - Priceless.. now my sweat drips in the way of my sight only.


jedduh01

Working more on the rear load floor.  Small spots rotted thru .. need attention  . SOme of the flange rusted gone --- Weld in replacement flange. Rear panel  . Holy - Weld in 2 patches there- Front C Channel - Needed two patches.

ALso dis connecting the front corner brackets was a pain too - Welds. Side welds Everything!



The floor fits!



The floor also has some random holes (where they shoudnt ) probably for a Later or foreign moke.. had to weld those up ( two big squares in the center.

Set it firmly in place - things lined up . Tacked down.



Looks good from both sides

Finalize the top



Little bit more to do on the bottom.



Final steps will be to get out two rear seats.. Have to reinforce the floor areas where the seats bolt to - and a center support., weld nut in some spots where the seats attach.


Mudhen

Awesome progress Jedduh!!  Looks great.   4.gif

I've been using POR-15 as a primer on the underside after metal work.  Tough stuff and can be top coated.

jedduh01

Rear floor is taking alot of Nit pickey items to fit in..  The flange had to be pulled down- Lower support had to be added in...

I also used some sheet metal screws to pull it down and hold in place while making sure it all fit right.

Welded in solid from the bottom side.



Really just need to clean up some welds.




No Pic. but the floor was stamped with the rear seat mounting holes backwards!  also have to fab up a floor support bracket for seat mounting too.

Box of Vroom Vroom parts came in!  Rings, Bearings, Seals, Mounts, gasket sets.! Its piling up!







clm

Quote from: jedduh01 on July 12, 2013, 04:28:49 AM



No Pic. but the floor was stamped with the rear seat mounting holes backwards!  also have to fab up a floor support bracket for seat mounting too.

Actually I believe those are seat belt mounting holes for later model mokes, the late model floor does not have early seat mount holes in it :)

Chris

jedduh01

Did not feel like - grinding - cutting, making a big mess and more noise on the body... Had a willing helper assemble another project.

Will it run?

94touring


jedduh01

#37
Yes- I love my WIfe and she  actually got INTO building the block- asking quesitons looking up torques. We had a small snag while assembling- When we put on the 2 + 3 rod caps- and then torqued up, the crank would no longer turn!   Oh man - Finally figured out--- WHen i took out the rods and the caps... I must have flipped them 180 out... the locking tabs of the caps were off from each other and not tab to tab, also throwing off the alignment of the cap- Locking up the crank... Now assembled right- timed with cam in place. WP - Oil Pump installed- Ready for a head... Gotta blast some more engine parts for final paint and re assembly


Back to the body -- Little parts sure take a lot of fettling and fitting.  Necessary items however.
Underside support - rusted  and now re built



Happy to say The rear end is COMPLETE_ and grinder time made it rather smooth and presentable.




Few small items to continue to tidy up - RH Pannier box- two center supports- I failed to order.. I'M simply grafting onto and attaching as factory Had... just with a seam now present



Hull Vents--- yea- wonder why water gets in the Triangle of the body - Cause there are vents... Re built 2 on one side so the hull can vent moisture (much like outer sills on a mini)



Just ran out of Mig Wire for the welder- and the Mig Tank is about to 0    Can solidly say i put 2 Lbs of wire spool weld back into this car.

Final bits- Re build the battery box completely -  Battery Supports. Mounting bracket.

And probably a few welds to touch up just to make fewer holes.

A view of a solid body close to time!



have a list ready of needed supplies from the paint supply shop--- I'm planning on doing alot of Prep.  Filling, Texture underocoating and preping for top coat.

Upgraded my compressor by adding a filter for water ( been super humid here ) and draining the compressor tank removes most fluid- Now the out line has a trap!


Nicholasupton

#38
I can honestly say that quality paint work is 80% prep (metal work and sanding) 15% quality materials and 5% using the right material for the job. Epoxy vs etch vs high build primer ect.  8.gif

You have a great start, so keep with it and when you start sanding for paint get the body perfect, then prime it one more time with a good guide coat.

Over 300 hours just in metal work and paint for this car. So be patient and you will have great results.



jedduh01

Another week or so has moved on by -  I feel like progress has come to a crawl....

Father in law was in town last week to so between entertaining him, and hering him tell me how what should be done- Not much got finished.

Anyhow--- together- we managed to Sand down the bottom - Clean up - Remove most of the rough stuff.  Slick up the metal;.. and Lay down a coat of Primer.




Let that dry for a day - on to the next layer... Undercoating!!

Masked off wheel well - im only undercoating the actual floors - not fenders .



later that evening when temps came below 90 -- shot undercoating in the driveway!!

Shutz gun - Easy to do!







It actually ended up drying Flat Black -- Looks AWESOME!!



Then friday we flew to San fran for the weekend- Family wedding- - so it has been waitin gnow for this week for some more attention ...

I think 1 more under body sand on the needed spots-- clean + final under body primer coat...

then time to flip and turn the magic to the top side...



94touring

Haha nice update.  Was just telling someone the last time I did undercoat I was on my back and got it in my hair. 

jedduh01

Thanks for the support--

I learned real fast after this frist primer and undercoat-- Wear GLOVES!!! that stuff is very hard to come off without chemicals..

Yes i should probably wear lung protection too.

     I forgot to add- I do need to go back an seam seal a few edges--- then the bottom will get that final coat of primer...

jedduh01

#42
Continuing along

Seam sealed the body seams  ... - probably should have done before undercoat- but still worked.



One final top primer coat -- make it unfirom for new paint.



Flipped  - Cleaned - tidy'ed the inner floors - Wiped cleaned. Masked off.



Shot undercoat on the INNER FLOORS!




Every bit will be body color .. Oh the choices....


Currently filling the bad - then one more top primer coat. before PAINT!!

Preliminary body work filling...




Mudhen

Loving it, Jedduh!!  Looks awesome.   4.gif

jedduh01

Fitted original doors to new Outer Panel  Original Dzus Fasteners still work great- and the spring holders provided with the panels were  a snap pop rivet to fit too - Worked perfectly.



Welded the outer panel on!  RH Side . Only need to smooth those welds out!




LH Side still to do Today!


Nicholasupton

Looking good  71.gif

Now go get that thing in paint so you can start driving it.

clm

At least your side panels won't squeak like mine do! lol

Looking good :)

Chris

jedduh01

#47
Welding the sides on was a pretty straight forward affair -  They didnt  line up perfectly with the angles on the end - but not the end of the world.

  Grinding the plug welds down was pretty easy too , but Be careful CLM-- when you start getting into smoothing your Moke.. Too much grinding  will leave Patches where each weld was, and you will easily see the grinding marks. 



I suggest using the Highest grit flap disk 120 ish- to smooth your grinds flush - then hopefully each spot will only require a thick layer of primer sanded smooth for a slick finish. I def dont want to fill each and every weld spot for a smooth appearance.
Have to also watch the edges of your grinder dont jump into the pressed edge of the panel and mess up your nice panel body line!


Little more filler needed in the front!



Yep - im using that palm sander - My compressor doesnt have enough volume and keepup to run DA Orbital .. IT works for majority of flattening!

jedduh01

Welp-  its all one color now .

Sanded - cleaned Tidy'ed the whole body top side-- Sprayed with primer,

Called 3 body people - Independents- Planning on getting it to one of them this week / weekend for color.

Looking over it - of course its not perfect - but it hopefully will be a solid slick down and treat a few spots with icing and then roll and color... I just dont have the patience for painting cars!









and meanwhile - Motor's comming together...

Whole Lotta green!




SomethingNew71

That engine is looking supa-fly. Ready to see this thing running.