Tink: My '89 Mini

Started by MtyMous, April 01, 2013, 08:44:41 PM

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MtyMous

After smoothing and polishing the pot joints, I was able to get most of the defects to go away. They seemed to be surface only and didn't require me taking off much material at all. They polished up nicely and using the micrometer again I had no noticeable decrease in material thickness. I will go ahead and press in the new bushings then ream them to size. If the fit isn't good, then I will go ahead and buy new ones. But I think these ones are actually going to work. That one little Groove you see is actually just barely big enough to feel with the fingernail and sits just past where the outer seal would be.

I will give them a shot. They look like they'll probably work.

By the way, it feels good to be back out in the garage making my project come to life. Thanks for always being awesome, guys.






MiniDave

#576
I think those pot joints will work fine.....did you mark them left and right so you know which goes back where?

That groove is where the lip of the seal rode, you can still use it, just position the seal a little deeper or shallower in the case so that it rides in a new spot......done all the time. Don't use RTV to set the seal, rather find some gasket sealer that dries and/or hardens and glue it in with that, that way it won't move once you have it where you want it.

One other thing to look at, in the bottom of the joint is a cap (like a freeze plug) stuck in - it covers the hole they used to machine the splines etc.....make sure it's still there and sealing. If it looks questionable you can carefully cover it with a layer of RTV to seal it. If it leaks, you'll know because your grease will become real runny and start leaking out of the boot from oil contamination coming from the gearbox.

Always a great feeling to make progress, isn't it? Even if it's only small bits......
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Willie_B

Quote from: MiniDave on July 24, 2017, 07:05:36 AM
One other thing to look at, in the bottom of the joint is a cap (like a freeze plug) stuck in - it covers the hole they used to machine the splines etc.....make sure it's still there and sealing. If it looks questionable you can carefully cover it with a layer of RTV to seal it. If it leaks, you'll know because your grease will become real runny and start leaking out of the boot from oil contamination coming from the gearbox.

Had one just like Dave says. Quite the mess. Had to clean it out and sealed it with JBWeld. Not fun when on the car.

MtyMous

Everything else looks good on them guys. But I will definitely try some of those things as preventative measure before putting them back in. Thanks

MtyMous

Buying a Reamer for the diff side covers right now. It's gonna be about $100. I don't mind buying it if the community thinks they could use it later on a loaner basis.

While I'm buying obscure reamers and tools, can y'all think of any other obscure random things you've had to buy that I may need to get as well?


On a separate note, I picked up a brand new engine stand for free, but I know most folks run an adapter plate to mount their motors for engine stand assembly. Anyone know where I can snag one or have plans so I can build my own?

MiniDave

#580
The adaptor plate varies just a bit depending on whether you're working on an A or A+ block, but it simply mounts to the oil filter housing and back alternator bolt holes. there is about 3/8" difference in height between the two sets of bolts, so if you're going to have everything square you'll need to space out at the alternator bracket by that much. Then weld a piece of round tubing onto the plate that will fit into your stand.

I don't know of anyone who sells a ready made one as the stand ends are all different.

I have an older Blackhawk stand and I was able to move the adjustable arms around enough to simply bolt it to my stand, but you have to remove it from the stand to finish the build of course.....I can also bolt mine onto the flywheel end of the block, but the flywheel and all the cases have to be off to do that - fine for building the crank, head and cam timing, but again it has to come off the stand to finish the build.

They're all a compromise, but either way still makes it a lot easier to build. I used to just build just the block and head on my steel workbench, but had to take it off that to put it on the trans case, so I use a couple of milk crates with a board for the final build up.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MtyMous

Thanks for all the info on the Stand, Dave!

I've actually been talking with Keith Adams and he's making up some really awesome mini specific tools and parts. Great for engine assembly and other things. I really hope to show them off here in the next couple weeks while I build up the rest of the motor.

I bought a reamer for the side diff covers. It's a 1.25" reamer and should be perfect for reaming out these bushings. I spent a dumb amount of money on it, but I made the conscious decision to buy it with the intent of sharing it with the rest of the community here. I wouldn't mind renting it out to anyone on here that needs to use it under the "break it you buy it" concept. haha.

Progress:

I'm looking at the final buildup steps for the motor and I'm curious what you guys are running for compression ratios and what have you found to work for you? My calculation right now show between 10.1:1 and 11.1:1 Compression Ratio. Anyone have some mini wizardry which suggests that these CR's aren't acceptable?

Cylinder Bore Size - 73.5mm    
Piston Stroke Length - 81.28mm
Head Gasket Bore Diameter - 74.55mm
Compressed Head Gasket Thickness - 1.1176mm
Combustion Chamber Volume In CCs - (18.5cc - 27cc) Haven't decided yet
Piston Dome Volume In CCs Negative For Dished Pistons - -7cc
Piston Deck Clearance - (using 0 until assembled)    


MiniDave

I believe Dan's motor is 10:1 compression.....I had .007 clearance to the deck on Dan's pistons, I like to leave a tiny bit of room just in case I ever need to deck the block.

As far as parts, I'd go with the recommendations of someone like Keith Calver - he's very approachable and will respond to emails and he's been doing this for freakingever.....

Either that or get a copy of Visard's book and read it thoroughly.....
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

jeff10049

what are you using for a cam and head also intake and exhaust?
As Calver says the volumetric efficiency plays a role in selecting a proper compression ratio.
I assume you will be running decent stuff so your volumetric efficiency will be reasonable. Knowing that I'd keep the CR around 10:1 at 11:1 fuel quality/octane becomes an issue for most engines unless you don't mind running race fuel all the time.


MtyMous

Jeff, I've been known to buy drums of 114 but I don't really want to go back to that life. lol.

I'm running a high quality maniflow big bore which I'm getting ceramic coated inside and out. The intake will be a 50mm throttle body which flows better than any Weber on the market according to the manufacturer's numbers. The head is likely going to be a custom order MED unit after talking with their folks with a good port and polish and custom CC'd chambers to get whatever CR I want (and I still need to dry build the motor to get all the exact measurements). The cam is a Kent 286. It should all play nicely together to flow pretty well.

I'm planning to get it as close to 10:1 as possible. I know it's FAR more complex than just "This CR needs this octane". I know I can pull timing to compensate for compression, etc etc. But I'm more wondering if these motors are known for shitting the bed with high CR's or something funky that I'm not planning for.

Willie_B

I believe that the MG Metro 1275's were 10.5:1 stock. When my engine was rebuilt it is now 10.5:1 to 11:1 area with no problems. I did drop the FD to 3.2 and can still stay in third gear for most of my mountain driving fun.

94touring

I'm 10:3:1. Keith took the deck height before doing head work to get that number and noted a few thousands here or there wouldnt really effect anything.  I of course will be running 91 octane.

Detonation problems on really high comp motors I'd find myself running a water injection kit rather than toting race fuel around.  Jugs of distilled water are easy to find.

94touring

Did a little digging.

Standard 998/1275 compression ratio 8:9:1
All 1098s: 8:3:1
Performance 1275 21250 (AE) Pistons 9:4:1
Mg metro 10:1


MtyMous

Thanks for the help, brochachos. Just wanna do all the homework I can before I drop $1k on a head. lol

sxsman

Is this in paint now Cameron?

If not I'd recommend SPI Epoxy primer.
Not the cheapest but widely considered to be the best.
They also ship direct (believe free)

MtyMous

If you're talking about body work, dan finished the body work a long time ago. I'm finishing up the engine and then I'll be painting the engine. The engine has bee primered in epoxy already. I'll sand it down and put on another coat prior to paint when that time comes.

MtyMous

#591
OK, Ok, ok...... I've ben really sucking at keeping this all up to date. Hell, I've even been called out by my own brothers for not making enough progress on the mini.

I'm writing this on my laptop in an undisclosed airport at an undisclosed location because that's my freaking life for the last 2 years. I've probably been out of town more than I've been in town. Is that an excuse? No... not at all. I'm just using it like it is one. So here's the deal. I'm going to CREATE a paradigm shift in my life because I need something to happen. I REALLY want the mini to be running by May, so I need to inject change. That's gonna be expensive and time consuming, but here's the few things I'm committed to doing and I hope you guys will enjoy it as a byproduct.

1) I need to just be a man and do stuff. Get off my ass and get in the garage. Cold weather isn't an excuse. I can crank up the garage heater and down some Red Bull.

2) I'm gonna stop waiting on parts to complete one piece before moving onto the next. I can do interior while I wait for engine parts. I can do electrical when things are held up elsewhere. Not too much at once, but not a linear approach. It's clearly not working.

3) I'm gonna document my progress. Right now I'm creating a YouTube account for my adventures. It's not gonna be your high energy, in your face, douchy/click-bait VLOG. I'm going more for how-to and creative automotive work. How things are done, how the restoration is going, and what I'm working on next. A lot of you guys were interested in the little projects I did on Tink before the restoration started, so I figured you might watch some of the simple things I do to get her rebuilt. Bonus is that there's gonna be another car in the stable next year and that will get some airtime as well... if you're interested in American cars as well.

So if you're interested in a video version of the build (Not quite Project Binky... be forewarned), and you get to sort of get to know me and my personality in the meantime, go to my YouTube channel and subscribe and hit the little bell icon so you're notified when there are updates. There aren't any videos on there just yet, but it'll help me gauge interest. First video next week and I'm gonna try to do one a week to help me stay accountable to viewers and the build.

Click here to watch my awkward self on YouTube

Any suggestions or tips are always welcome from my friends here at Restoration Mini.

-Cam

MiniDave

Good on you, we'll be looking forward to it.....linky no worky tho......
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

MtyMous

try the link now and let me know if its working for ya

MiniDave

Well, sorta....it let me onto your channel but only if I subscribed (which I did) and there are no vids there right now......so?
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Mudhen

Get to know you...shit, I just learned your name is Cameron!

Subscribed. (at least until the American iron gets added  ;D )

Pat

jedduh01



Get to work!! = Commit to a tiny bit  ..   15 min a day in the garage doing SOMETHING leads to SOME progress.
      that little 15 Minutes   Cleaning and painting  one little part = can turn into to 30 min then turns leads to hours of effort accomplished.
     Better than nothing.  day by day.

I too have to Push myself some days to get off the comfy couch to go ' do garage work" but in the end, I enjoy Garage work more than watching silly videos or inside computer thing s not getting stuff done.

Goodluck.  The you tube will require sometime on its own.!


BruceK

I'm gonna stock up on popcorn!!   ;D
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

MtyMous

Guys... Shooting video is easy. Editing video is a bitch. Also, My audio SUCKS! Who knew? I'm gonna re-film something just because I didn't get the right angles and the audio is straight up shit. haha. Live and learn. Anyway, I'm hoping to have a new video up by Friday. Another one next week, and a third one by the end of next week.

I made a TON of progress on the engine build now that I have a legit engine stand thanks to Keith Adams and his brilliant engineering brain. I would recommend this engine stand adapter to absolutely anyone. Makes access a simple task and rotates about it's geometric center. and THIS THING IS BEEFY!!

Engine Assembly Top End

Classic Mini Engine Stand 1

Classic Mini Engine Stand 2

Classic Mini Engine Stand 3

Classic Mini Engine Stand 4


Took a trip to the hardware store to buy some higher quality fasteners as well. Probably spent more money than I needed to, but good fasteners make me feel good about myself. lol. Here's a little glimpse of what's gonna be featured on one of the next videos. Mmmm...

KENT Duplex Vernier Timing Chain

MiniDave

Nice DSN timing chain cover, I'm a little surprised you didn't go with belt drive as long as you were at it......

What did the adaptor plate cost?
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad