Apparent fuel system issue

[94touring]

Yes that's something with the distributor.  Sounds like it needed a full tune up either way. Electronic modules are cheap and easy.

[MiniDave]

There is a place in Austin that sells Hot Spark, which is a twin to Pertronix but half the price. I had one in Buzz and it worked perfectly. You need a 3 ohm coil with electronic points, a 1 ohm with points. So the coil you bought will work perfectly.....make sure there's no ballast resistor with the Hot Spark setup or Pertronix, you need a full 12V.

[94touring]

I had to look up the last spare distributor I bought.  Got it from here.  I selected the option that uses a different module and low ohm coil. It has a good description on what goes with what.  But you can select one for a regular 3 ohm too.

https://simonbbc.com/d10-Powerspark-lucas-59d-electronic-distributor/

[MPlayle]

I ordered points, condenser, rotor, cap, and plug wires from Wild Child today as they indicated they ahd them all in stock.  We'll see how that goes.  Cost-wise was not bad - about $80 shipped.

I want to get it going again with minimal changes as I was still fine tuning some things.  I still had the idle a bit higher than normal and was planning on a minor adjustment to the mixture.  I know that faster idle puts reading the timing off for making a change to an electronic ignition.

Once I have it running again, I will investigate options for going electronic.

I am also going to check for other engine health issues while it is down: use my borescope to check the piston chambers, check compression, try to make sure the valves are operating fine (reference: a recent thread on the Mini Mania forum about an engine that had the cam and lifters go flat).

[MiniDave]

Yes. maybe before you do anything else, run compression.

My buddy Zac (local Mini owner) pulled the head off his engine because it overheated - thinking it had a bad head gasket - he completely redid the head and put it back on and the car wouldn't start. We ran compression and basically it had none on three cylinders. It had destroyed three pistons.....

He's since rebuilt it, the gearbox, all the suspension and brakes and it's back on the road humming now!

[MPlayle]

Finished my usual Saturday chores (laundry, etc.) and went out to do some of the afore mentioned checks.

Bores look good - hash marks from last honing are still visible in all cylinders.

Compression tested:
#1 = 142
#2 = 135
#3 = 132
#4 = 130

I've had the car 3.5 years.  I do not know when the motor was last overhauled prior to my ownership (if at all - I did not check the bore size when I changed the head).  It is supposed to be a standard compression 998 A+ engine.  As far as I know, the above compression numbers should be okay.

[MiniDave]

That's plenty for it to run, I agree......

[94touring]

I know that faster idle puts reading the timing off for making a change to an electronic ignition

Really the best way to set timing is block the vacuum line and then set it for 30-32 degrees with it revved upwards of 4k, or whatever rpm timing peaks out at.  Idle will just be whatever it is. 

[MPlayle]

How do you know what rpm the timing peaks out at?  How do you know when the timing peaks out for that matter?

All I am used to is the standard methods outlined in the manuals.  For my 998 with the 59D4 distributor, the Haynes manual says dynamic timing with a timing light at 8* BTDC (+0* to -2*) at 1500 rpm.

I have the "redline" of my tach set at 5500 rpm.  I have had the engine upwards of 5000 rpm playing catch-up to folks last summer at MMEMW (hit 90 mph per the gps).

Right now, I m waiting for parts to just get it back running at the current settings.  Then I will go from there for upgrading to an AccuSpark unit.

[94touring]

It just stops increasing.  So if you see 30° @ 3500 rpms and 30° @ 3800 rpms then that's it and you're done.  If your redline is 5500 you could just rev it to 5500 and set it too.  Doesn't hurt anything, just louder is all.

[MPlayle]

I presume to do that one would also need a timing light with an advance feature?

The old timing light I have is very basic without and advance feature.  The timing marks on the car don't register up to 30* - 32*.  They are just the basic teeth on the timing cover and I think those only go to about 20*.

[94touring]

Yes.   You can do it the manual way, it's just doing it how I suggested guarantees full timing is correct.

[MPlayle]

Parts are all on the way. 

The main tune-up parts from Wild Child are expected to be delivered Friday.

The AccuSpark from the UK is on its way as well.  No ETA yet, but tracking shows it is in transit between Royal Mail and USPS.

[MPlayle]

The tune up parts from Wild Child arrived a day early!  Total pricing seemed okay and shipping was prompt - $78 all in for points, condensor, rotor, cap, plug wires, and ground shipping.

Now I get to see if I can get it running again this weekend.

[MPlayle]

She's Alive!!

I put in the new points, condenser, rotor, cap, and wires.  She fired right up on choke (from cold) and ran smoothly.  The new fuel pump seems to keep up fine as well.  I did the first startup with the tach disconnected as a precaution.  I reconnected the tach and set up to check the timing and she still fired right up.  The timing proved spot on for what the manual says: 6* - 8* BTDC at 1500 rpm.

I set the warm idle back down to 1000 rmp and buttoned her all up (air filter and grill back on) and did one more double check and she fires up fine.

I guess the condenser went out at the same time as the fuel stopped due to vacuum on the tank.

I'm much happier now with the car running again.

 

[94touring]

Does it run better?

[MiniDave]

I'm glad you got it sorted! 

[MPlayle]

Does it run better?

I have not had it out for a drive yet, but the idle and revving in the garage seemed smoother.

[MPlayle]

The AccuSpark kit came in over the weekend.  It is now installed and the timing all reset ready for a road test.  I will be keeping the points/condenser set as a backup.

[MPlayle]

Met Bruce today for a run to the Dripping Springs C&C.  The Mini ran fine there and back.  It runs smoother and pulled some of the hills better.  I would say the overall tune-up helped as the timing (still set as it was when I got the car) was retarded to about 12* ATDC instead of the spec'd 8* BTDC (at 1500 rpm with the vacuum advance disconnected).  It is now set to spec (8* BTDC at 1500 rpm) and most likely making better use of the available power versus before.