Question when removing engine

[bikewiz]

So I have nearly everything off the engine the last bits are the driveshafts, speedo cable, and the motor mounts.
I know I need to release the upper ball joint and steering rod end to remove the driveshafts, is it possible to pull the driveshaft out of the inner CV while it's still in the car? I've removed them in the past when I had the whole assembly out of the car but haven't tried leaving the inner CV installed. The only reason I ask is I'll need to put them back in before the motor goes off for a refresh.
Also most people recommend using the outer most head bolts to lift from or using the rocker cover hold down studs, any preference?

[94touring]

I just always remove the hubs so the drive shafts slide out. It's quick and easy with my ball joint separator.  If I need to put the hubs back on to have steering it doesn't take much to lightly tighten the ball joints back up.

For lifting I use a combination of exhaust studs and the alternator bracket and engine steady bracket.

[MiniDave]

I use the end most exhaust stud on the clutch end and either the alt bracket or one of the water pump holes with a bolt in it.

I have a bracket made to lift from the valve cover studs, I've seen it used but I never have done it that way.

[bikewiz]

This is my solution for lifting the engine out. I bolted one plate to the holes for the engine steady and the other to the exhaust studs. We'll see if I can get the correct angle coming out.

I ended up removing the hubs and pulled the axles out of the outer CV. I decided I'll replace the inner and outer anyway.
I have it back together with the outer boot in place to keep the mess to a minimum and still be able to steer the car.

[MiniDave]

It's difficult pulling an engine from the top when it has the brake booster on the right side, so I drop it out the bottom, subframe and all.

[bikewiz]

I moved the master and booster. When I redid the brakes a few years ago I installed Goodridge stainless flex lines from the master to distribution block.
This description from MS is what sold me "By replacing the 2 metal brake pipes from the servo and fitting these 2 strong flexible braided hoses it means you can unbolt the servo and move it around the engine bay without having to dismantle the pipes ever again which in turn meant having to bleed the brakes every time."

I unbolted it last night it looks like I should have plenty of room.

[bikewiz]

Engine is out, car is soon to be with the body shop, engine is soon to be with the builder.

[MiniDave]

Who will you use to build the motor?

[bikewiz]

Who will you use to build the motor?

A mini guy out this way that did my first mini trans/engine rebuild will do the refresh (He isn't a forum/online guy) It's mostly going in for some trans work to fix it from popping out of reverse and to chase some of the leaks.