Amateur Restoration of a 1960 Morris Mini

Started by scalpel_ninja, October 19, 2024, 12:10:41 PM

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MPlayle

I have done the engine in/out on my panel Van in the same manner as skmini described.

I use the outermost exhaust studs (at each end) as my attachment points for similar brackets.

scalpel_ninja

Quote from: skmini on August 19, 2025, 02:24:28 PMI've been pulling mine with the radiator attached.  I've been taking the alternator and distributor cap off, as well as taking the starter off.  I haven't needed to take the oil filter off.

The axles are the biggest pain.

Lot's of carefulling.

Thank you for the information. I've seen other owners pull their motors with the radiator still attached. That's why I pre-installed mine. Hope it works out...

The alternator isn't installed yet, starter motor still needs to ordered, so that should just leave the distributor to be removed for clearance. The axles and hubs are still sitting in boxes.

Quote from: MPlayle on August 19, 2025, 05:06:58 PMI have done the engine in/out on my panel Van in the same manner as skmini described.

I use the outermost exhaust studs (at each end) as my attachment points for similar brackets.


Thanks! Honestly I would feel better if I didn't have to disturb the head bolts unless absolutely necessary. Using the exhaust studs sounds better to me. Though wouldn't this potentially tip the engine forward (exhaust side canted up) instead of the usually recommended tipping it backward (exhaust side canted down)?

MPlayle

I would have to look in the garage to be certain, but now I think about it I recall using three mounting points.  The two outer exhaust studs and one of the alternator bracket bolts (on the front of the engine).

This kept it fairly level and still allowed me to tilt it enough to swing the final drive under.


scalpel_ninja


MiniDave

That looks terrific!

Should be running and driving late this afternoon then?   :grin:
Complete failure at retirement - but getting better!

1972 Mini Racing Green
1972 Mini ST hotrod
2017 Audi Allroad - Glacier White - His
2018 Audi Allroad - Floret Silver - Hers

scalpel_ninja

Quote from: MiniDave on August 25, 2025, 08:53:23 AMThat looks terrific!

Should be running and driving late this afternoon then?   :grin:

One can dream... 😂

scalpel_ninja

Got the outer CVs installed along with the hub and associated connections made.





Also dry fitted this front shock. Not sure if there's supposed to be any bushings for it on the studs? Seems to just slip on to be bolted down.





And just for fun, I dry fitted the wheel. I think it's gonna look pretty good!



BruceK

Nice wheel!  I like the flat rim on it.
1988 Austin Mini 
2002 MINI Cooper S
1997 Land Cruiser Prado RX (JDM)
2014 Toyota Tacoma

MiniDave

Don't forget the Mr. Kotter pins on the big axle nuts......no bushings on the shock mounts, just big thin flat washers. I think the extra length is there because they used nylock nuts....
Complete failure at retirement - but getting better!

1972 Mini Racing Green
1972 Mini ST hotrod
2017 Audi Allroad - Glacier White - His
2018 Audi Allroad - Floret Silver - Hers

scalpel_ninja

Quote from: MiniDave on September 30, 2025, 08:55:16 AMDon't forget the Mr. Kotter pins on the big axle nuts......no bushings on the shock mounts, just big thin flat washers. I think the extra length is there because they used nylock nuts....

Thank you! That's what I figured judging by how the shock just slips on. The manual that comes with the shock is just photos and quite confusing because they seem to illustrate installation of all different kinds of shocks (like coil overs) made by KYB, and not just this specific model.

Once I get tires on the wheel and the car on the ground, I'll make sure to torque to spec and install the cotter pins.

I was also reading a torque spec of caliper retaining bolts to hub should be 35-40 ft-lbs. Might be just in my head, but I was torquing with the torque wrench, but it started to feel plasticky around 25 ft-lbs and didn't go any further...

MiniDave

They're 3/8-24 bolts, so unless you're using hardware store grade 2 bolts they should easily tighten to 35-40. I used grade 8 on all suspension and brake hardware.
Complete failure at retirement - but getting better!

1972 Mini Racing Green
1972 Mini ST hotrod
2017 Audi Allroad - Glacier White - His
2018 Audi Allroad - Floret Silver - Hers

scalpel_ninja

Thanks for the info. They are assembled with grade 8 bolts. I'll go back and check again this weekend. I had a bad experience with using a torque wrench in a Subaru suspension when swapping out a sway bar. Ended stripping the hole at just 25 ft-lbs.

In this case, the bolt isn't what I'm worried about. I'm afraid to strip the threads in the hub, if that's even possible.

94touring

I've always just made them good and tight. A lock washer and a bolt long enough to use up all the threads but short enough it  doesn't hit the disc.

BruceK

Is it possible your torque wrench is out of whack?  Do you have a second torque wrench to check with?
1988 Austin Mini 
2002 MINI Cooper S
1997 Land Cruiser Prado RX (JDM)
2014 Toyota Tacoma

scalpel_ninja

Quote from: BruceK on September 30, 2025, 04:20:20 PMIs it possible your torque wrench is out of whack?  Do you have a second torque wrench to check with?

I thought about that possibility, but I do test that it clicks by putting the square head in a bench vise and set it at a lower torque before I use it on the car. I was able to torque other bolts to 22-25 ft-lbs without issues. I wonder if it's just the angle at which I'm holding it makes the feeling a bit different...