Due to arrive soon

[BruceK]

Sometimes you can find OEM CV boots as separate items. So if your Original CV joints are still in good condition, you can just replace the boots with high-quality onesand not have to go for a complete axle replacement.

[94touring]

Yeah all I did was replace the boots. But to do that at least one end needs to come off each axle.  And all 4 ends lost balls when the boots were knocked off and things weren't set in it's normal position.  Since I had balls laying around and 2 ends completely off, I decided to just take them completely apart, inspect, clean, reassemble, and repack with new grease.

You can see how they must come apart to get the boots off.

[94touring]

In other news I started doing the fuel injection conversion.  Crank trigger on, manifolds in place, mechanical fuel pump blocked off, distributor removed and distributor drive hole blocked. The way the distributor block off works is you're supposed to use a special tool to pull out the drive gear down in the block. Then magnet fish out washers if I recall. I did a test run on another block but couldn't get it out.  Rather than do all that or leave the distributor in place, which is required or the internal drive gear in the block comes up and off and something internally bad happens. I took a cheap crap distributor I had used for parts, cut the bottom off at a specific length to match the block off piece, stuck it in the lathe and trimmed down where I cut nice and flat.
 Took the distributor hole block off piece, and used a couple washers to set lash.  This allows a dizzy drive that sits in the block that keeps the drive gearing in the block in place and not coming up out of place. I should have taken pictures  it would make more sense.  Another benefit is on a long road trip, if this guy's ecu takes a shit, I can just slide out the dummy dizzy drive and slide in a distributor.  To make sure the dummy drive is in the drive slots I cut a slot on the end of the drive shaft that I can stick a screw driver in and twist the drive to make sure it's matched up.

Added a picture of what the dizzy block off looks like. The slot is for the O ring. You tighten down a screw on the end which sandwiches plates together which squishes the O ring tight. With the screw completely removed I can slide a skinny flat head down to ensure the dummy dizzy drive is in the slots. Then tighten things up.  The internal drive gear, spring, and washers I would have had to remove otherwise.