'70 Mini - Rust repairs to Daily Driver (hopefully)

Started by Bahowe1, January 04, 2017, 12:48:55 PM

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94touring

Don't put on the 9 incher.  If you use it, cut it length ways to expose the vents.  I ended up with a pair and just cut it so it was back to stock.  You need it to vent. 

Bahowe1

My bad, I think I read it too quickly.  So there is a difference between cill and overcill.  So to make sure I understand, I should use the cill like in the picture (not the 9 inch ones - because they are the ones that trap and hold water), but before I use it, I should have the area it covers primed and painted.  Then, grease up the inside of the cill and weld it on.  Good thing I have both types of cills then... and a shame I didn't know this before I ordered the overcills (probably a year ago).     

94touring

Overcills are just to hide rotten cills basically.  But can be cut to work.  So yeah, seal/paint, and grease if you want to take it a step further. 

Bahowe1

Saturday night, I welded a bit more, final welded in that side panel from a previous post (forgot to take a picture), and a couple repair places.  So... the front left side is now done, so on to the right side front.  It'll get about the same, new flitch panel, floor pans the full length, repair rear subframe mount, inner and outer cill and whatever else is needed.  Couple pictures of the areas I needed to work on and a few of where the repair was done.  No finishing work is done yet.  Just some welding and some grinding.

Bahowe1

So, I am getting ready to move to the rear to knock out the last 1/4 of floor pan.  The difference this time is the quarter panel on this side is still good, so I would like to leave it in place and bust the spot welds between the bin and the quarter panel to slip the floor pan out of that sandwich.  Is this possible??  Any tips?  I plan to drill out the spot welds for the bottom of the bin to the pan, and the spots for the bottom door seal to the pan (in the door opening).  Will it actually slip out??

Picture updates... 'Before' (in the previous post), 'during' and 'after' getting in the flitch panel and the front floor pan half (no grinding done yet).  Last two shots are 'befores' for the rear floor pan half, and the rear subframe mount areas.

Bahowe1

A little more progress...
So yes, I cut out the spot welds and it is possible to slip the rusted up last bit of floor pan out from between the door sill and the rear bin.  While out, I went ahead and put in the new subframe repair panel as well as the closing piece (using the subframe to position- Thanks Dan!).  I started to cut the shape for the last floor pan section and had to stop there because time expired.  No grinding done yet.

 


Bahowe1

Here we go...
Got the rest of the floor put in... now the floor is done!!  Honestly, when I started this project, I really felt like it would be over my head.  After finishing the floor, it was like getting a fresh breath of air.
Then I started in the boot area... and started feeling overwhelmed again!
I got most of the right side (upside down) re-worked with some new pieces in.  The subframe bolts drop right in, so it is perfectly aligned still.  I've still got to address the wheel well area - waiting on a couple more parts.

Questions...
1.  The 'rear valence and subframe mount closing panel', how does this thing get sealed up??  Spot weld through the rear lower valence and spot weld to the boot floor' and then seam seal the mess out of it all?  It just seems like there are a lot of gaps.
2.  Does anyone know where I can get a replacement spare tire cavity panel?  Mine has a ton of pin holes in it, I fear I won't have enough thickness to actually put patches in.
3.  Has anyone used 3M's Cavity Wax Plus?  I'm thinking about using it in the rocker areas, and this rear closing panel area.

Pictures attached. 
I couldn't believe the shock mount area.  That 'patch' was caulked on. 

Bahowe1

...and a couple more pictures... (Questions in previous post)

MiniDave

From the look of that it looks like you need the whole boot floor.....
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

94touring

#59
Yeah I'd do a new boot floor.  You can probably get away with cutting it off where it wraps under to make the rear seat.  It's what we did on Vikrams too. 

Edit.  Looks like you have begun patching her up where the closing panels are. 

Bahowe1

What?  Throw the baby out with the bath water?  There is at least a 3x3" section that is rock solid in that boot floor! 
In hindsight, you guys are right, I would have bought the boot floor - I didn't realize some repair pieces were not quite big enough and how many pin holes were in the wheel cavity.  However, I already bought the boot side repair pieces, battery box, and the 10" boot floor segment. 
I looked at it again last night with a light in the boot and it is not as bad as I was thinking.  Most of the pin holes are in one flat area, and the few in the curves I think I have enough replacement metal.  So, if no-one has one, I think I can make it work with what I have.
Thanks for the responses. 
And yeah, I sort of already started the repairs and fabricating pieces, so I am committed.

94touring


Bahowe1

A little more progress made... slowly but... slowly.
I can't get over how poorly done previous patches were.  In the second image, you can see where someone has just put a patch over rusted metal and it also started to rust out.  I cut all that out and fab'ed up a new piece (didn't have this section).  I am going back and cutting out most everything that was done.  I am convinced patches were done by two different people.  There are a select few patches that were done really well - these, I won't need to re-do.
Next up is the spare tire area, and the battery box.   


Bahowe1

Spare tire area and a couple smaller repairs.  Battery box is back in too, but I forgot to take a picture.  Do you guys weld up, or close off somehow the three big holes in the bottom of the battery box?? 
Only a couple small areas left in the boot area. 

I plan to replace the wheel 'arches' (mini spares term), and ordered both of them.  One came, but the other one is backordered.  Been waiting a couple weeks on it now and it is getting near the point where I really need it.

94touring


Bahowe1

Thanks Dan.  One more thing to order (well three more).
Also, for anyone doing similar work, I almost made a rookie mistake I thought I'd share. 
In the boot near the rear subframe back bolts -- The 'floor to wheel arch bracket' should be fitted BEFORE welding in boot side repair panels or replacement boot floor.  Because - the bracket welds to the underside of the floor and goes up through the gap and into the boot.  The bracket will not slip in if the wheel arch and repair pieces are already sound.  (See picture where my finger is pointing)  Sadly, I already welded in my boot side repair panels and now cannot fit in the bracket...
Thankfully though, I am replacing the wheel arches and while those are out, I can slip in that bracket.

Also, I am including a picture of a previously done 'repair' where someone welded a piece of metal over a rusted out section in the wheel arch.  Don't do this.  Send your car to Dan instead.  I already cut it out, and both pieces were now rusted and many through holes. 

MiniDave

Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

Bahowe1

I need some help here...
It's nearing time to put on the outer sills and also the rear valence.  Both areas will be boxed in forever.  When discussing this topic months ago, I heard epoxy primer prior to closing it in.  I have two guns borrowed from a friend (see picture).  Will either of these work to spray epoxy primer?  I know zero about painting, I just want to get something in there to protect it.
Also, I have welded in that area (lots) and where the factory panel paint lifted, I spayed a cheap primer (zinc rust preventer) just to cover the metal until I could get back to it, do I need to figure out how to get back to bare metal prior to spraying?
Also, any recommendation on epoxy primer brand?
Thanks!

MiniDave

Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

jeff10049

the purple gun will spray primer, the other gun is a schultz type gun for bed liner, rocker panel chip guard, or under coat. just about any epoxy primer should be fine for inside panels, don't worry about whatever you already sprayed on scuff it the best you can and shoot it.

Jeff

94touring

Purple gun is a harbor freight special, will work good.  You could slather it on with a paint brush for that matter.  You just want it on the inside to keep moisture off.

Bahowe1

Thanks for the answers fellas!
I have a quart of SPI's epoxy primer (and activator) on it's way.  I plan to scuff up what I can reach, then spray it with the purple gun.

I got a good bit of repairing done this weekend.  Some before and after pictures of the wheel well areas on both side of the car. 
The wheel well areas had a good number of terrible patches in them, so it feels good to have them done right.  I ended up replacing both, as well as repairs to the inner fenders, and the rear quarters.  Lots of welding, lots of grinding.   

The next step is to mount the rear valence and the outer sills, but before I do that, I need to get the epoxy primer in the void areas.

94touring


SomethingNew71

Dang the last time I saw this, there was a hole in the floor you could see the road through.  Looking really good man keep on trucking!

Cole

Bahowe1

Thanks fellas.  I appreciated the good words and all the help!
Great forum Dan.