67 MK-II Moke

[MPlayle]

Custom "roll bar" and top.  I had it made to be similar to the late model Portuguese or Cagiva ones.

I decided to go with that style too late to add it to my order of the new body.

[94touring]

Looks like it came out nice.

[MPlayle]

Started the reassembly today.  I have the steering rack in place, the front bumper mounted (for lifting the body to slide the engine & front subframe under), the front upper shock mounts installed, the rear wiring harness installed, and the tail lights installed and connected.

[MPlayle]

Today's progress: a) slid the engine/front subframe underneath the engine bay, ready for lifting into place Saturday; b) installed the rear subframe and ran the front-to-rear brake line (including body grommets); c) went back and added body grommets for the rear wiring harness.

[94touring]

Leaving the heritage stickers on?

[MPlayle]

Did not pay attention to them being there.  Since it is in place, I guess they stay on.

[MPlayle]

Some more progress: I've been working primarily from the back of the Moke moving forward.

1) Rear bumper mounted, "Jerry Can" frame with the rear license plate mounted, truck box mounted, seat belts installed and rear seats installed.

2) Engine and front subframe lifted into place and mounted.

[BruceK]

It's coming along very nicely. It won't be too long before you are enjoying it in the great spring weather

[94touring]

Going to be on the road in no time.

[MPlayle]

A bit more:
1) Grab handles installed.
2) Hand brake handle installed, pedals installed.
3) Wiper motor and wheelbox assembly installed.
4) Master cylinders installed with remaining hydraulic lines in place.

[MPlayle]

Yesterday's progress:
1) Steering column installed and the steering wheel centered with the centered steering rack.  (Ready for attaching the rack ends to the hubs.)
2) Hand brake cables attached to handle.
3) Instrument binnacle installed with wiring fed through to engine bay.
4) Beginning to route the harness throughout the engine bay and hook everything up.

[MiniDave]

Wow, Michael you are really flying! Can't wait to hear it run, be sure to take some video.....

[jedduh01]

Great work!

Impressed with the 'rather full braided Brake and clutch line Kit=  Tidy!  I didn't realize those all existed for LHD mini's !

[MPlayle]

Being that my contracting work is extremely slow right now, I have been able to devote big chunks of time to getting the Moke back together.

The braided flex lines from the masters to the clutch slave and first brake 'T' are from Mini Spares.  They have them for both RHD and LHD (same one for clutch is being used for the brake).  I carefully measured and ordered the rest of the braided lines for the entire system from JEGS online.  I spent a few days measuring and planning the components to order to do braided lines pretty much everywhere.

Unfortunately, I do not have an easy means of doing video.  I use an old digital camera and my cell phone is an older style flip-phone that does not do video.  The camera does have a video mode, but I have not learned anything about it - just the basic taking pictures.

[tmsmini]

The latest Goodridge hoses are also coated which is really nice. I resorted to cover the ones I have used in the past. Are the JEGS versions coated?

[MPlayle]

JEGS carries from several suppliers as well as their "house" brand.  Some are coated, most are not.  The lengths I needed/used were not available in the coated lines.  I have new grommets in all body holes the lines go through.  I also routed and zip-tied the lines in manners to avoid rubbing.  I am also putting some covering over the lines in any place were possible rubbing cannot be avoided.

[MPlayle]

Status update:

Some more of the "little" things done. 

The tail end is now "finished" - the spare tire cover, jerry can, and "Moke" decal in place.  I need to do another adjustment on the rear brakes and check it after setting the hand brake.  I still have not yet filed the lines with brake fluid - on next week's list.

I also finished up the "interior" - front seats installed, oil pressure gauge line connected, wiper motor power connected, shifter and boot installed.

I am now working on the ancillaries and hook ups in the engine bay.  Made the test fit of the carb and filter.  I need to get a thinner carb-to-manifold spacer.  The one I have is the ~1/2" alloy one and makes the filter hit the firewall right where the oil pressure line, water temp capillary tube and speedometer line go through.  I need to get one of the ~1/4" ones (or have the spare alloy one I have milled down in thickness).

I do have all the front lights installed and wired, the starter installed, the distributor installed, the alternator installed, the oil filter filled and installed, and the oil pressure switch/gauge line adapter installed.  I still need to hook the pressure gauge line to the adapter and install the pressure switch - then I will have both the gauge and indicator light.

[MPlayle]

No new pictures today.  Spent part of the day at actual work instead of the Moke.

Moke progress was limited to trying to solve the issue of the air filter clearance with the firewall.  I ordered a thinner spacer from 7Ent as a backup.  I found a local shop that would mill the spare alloy one down to 0.30" for me.  That helped quite a bit - I can mount the carb with the filter on.  However, it still is barely touching the grommet on the opening where the speedometer wires, temp capillary tube and oil pressure tube go through the firewall.  Time to find a thin pancake filter.

I found two possibilities at MiniSpares.  One is a K&N at 1.75" tall (would give about 1/4" additional clearance) and the other is a foam type at 1" tall.  I decided to go with ordering the thinner of the two for the most clearance.

[94touring]

One thing to consider is whether or not the 1 inch tall will fit the  small k&n stub stack to round out the sharp edges leading into the intake.  A real performance killer otherwise over just staying with a stock box and angled throat.

[MPlayle]

I have an angled throat, but not a stock air box.  I had not planned on running a stub-stack, so have not ordered one.

The HS4 carb & manifold I ordered a long while back as an upgrade to the original HS2 on the 850 came with a K&N cone filter.

I'm going to judge the clearance the PF102A from MiniSpares provides versus to reported height of the K&N pancake filter.  Two of the PF102A filters with shipping from the UK were still slightly cheaper than one K&N pancake filter ordered direct from K&N.

[94touring]

Just looked at the 1" pancake and now realize that's the fancy looking ones that come with most dual carbs. They won't fit the stub stacks, but the metal plates can be retained and you can ditch the foam for a K&N E-3200.  The filter cost $35 and the stub stack just under $20.  Of course if nothing fits the bulkhead it's all for nothing.  I just know that Vizard and Calver both show losses with the sharp edges on the leading edges.  Food for thought.

[MiniDave]

My car has a K&N, but it's cone shaped rather than pancake, gives more room in a regular car.....

[94touring]

My car has a K&N, but it's cone shaped rather than pancake, gives more room in a regular car.....

I want to say the offset on those is different than the pancakes but don't quote me.  They sure do look nice though.

[MPlayle]

That is the same cone filter that came with the new carb.  The bulkhead on the MK-II Moke is not as recessed as for the Saloon and even with the thinner spacer between the carb and manifold, the filter just barely touches the grommet

[Jimini II]

The MG Metro intake works well for clearance problems.