Introduction - '74 Mini 1000, Blue Thunder in NM

Started by bryanp, May 12, 2016, 01:57:32 PM

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bryanp

ok, so I made a little more progress.  I had fabricated a plate that sits on top of the sheet metal "tray" that goes between the firewall and the partial tube section that is the front rail of the dash.  Holy cow, I can't describe what a PITA it was to get three sets of holes aligned/drilled in the plate, the tray and the top of the OBP pedal box.  Finally got it to work (God bless the Dremel) and hung the pedal box about 1.5" below the plate/tray. 

I was also able to source an extended, adjustable steering column lowering bracket from Swiftune in the UK.  Unlike the gorgeous billet bracket from DSN Classics, this one angles away from the bottom of the rail, so the fouling problem I had w/ the middle master cylinder in the pedal box is now solved. 

Another glitch was that my original set of holes in the plate and tray ended up placing the brake pedal in the way of the steering column by about 1/16.  With a lot of filing to get the pedal box more to the right, and skootching the bracket to the left, I now have 0.5" between the column and the brake pedal at its closest point (the column angles towards the centerline of the car).

I set the driver's seat in the car and sat in it, just to make sure all the geometries had all finally worked out.  I think I can say that the car is officially LHD . . . .   I will still be a somewhat splayed-knees driver, but that's life in a Mini.  I am feeling pretty energized now.  I will mount the 3-reservoir plinth in the engine bay and use some tubing to mock up the six lengths of stainless steel woven master cylinder hoses I need to have fabricated.  I will remove the pedal box and mount up the other two cylinders and bias bar.      Then back under the dash to work on mounting the pint-sized heater from MiniMania . . . . another transition plate in my near future.

MiniDave

Very cool, progress........

You mentioned fuel pressure, those webers are very sensitive to fuel pressure - 2 - 2.5psi is all they want. I like the regulator with the filter built in - who makes that?
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

bryanp

the mfg is Malpassi Filter King.  The gauge is an add-on; you have to pick one where the filter body has been drilled/threaded for the gauge.  I'll go thru my file tonight to see who I bought it from.

MiniDave

I found them, seem to be UK based. Spendy too......

Thanks for the info!
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

bryanp

Definitely spendy, but the guy who provided the supercharger uses it on his motors for dialing-in the psi.

bryanp

Slowly, but surely, incremental progress.  New front suspension; Spax adjustable coil-overs and Minisport ventilated brakes.   I bought a Series II E-type coupe last summer and vowed not to work on it until the Mini was complete . . . one new heater valve and clutch master cylinder later . .. .

Willie_B

I was thinking something was missing in the photo, read back and noticed coil-overs.

MiniDave

I also have a Series II E-Type coupe, tell us about yours........
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

bryanp

#58
Before I get to the Jag, I noticed something odd w/ the new hubs.  After torquing down the swivel pin nuts at the top and bottom of the hub on the left side, it swivels easily and I can turn the rubber dust covers at the ball joint w/ my fingers.  But on the right side - same procedure - I have difficulty swiveling the hub w/ two hands.  Same torque setting (30) and I can also turn the dust covers w/ my fingers.  I haven't lubed the top and bottom zerks, I feel like I shouldn't need to to get easy swiveling.  I'm talking about rotation in the vertical axis, not the rotation of the rotor.

Anyway, the Jag; I bought it from a doctor in Orlando who had it since 86.  I have a FL certificate that shows it was off the road/unregistered for nearly 20 years.  It only has has 38,700 miles on it.  About 5 years ago he started doing a lot of work - rust repair, dynamat, painted from primrose yellow to black, new tan interior, stainless exhaust, new AC from Vintage Air, conversion from the two Zenith Strombergs to the triple SUs, alum radiator, electronic ignition, etc.    I bought it knowing that it had mechanical needs and I didn't want to spend money on a project that needed paint/interior.  The engine runs strongly, but the long-term storage maladies showed up right away.  Coolant geyser out of the heater valve  (had to cut it off w/ a dremel), and the third time I drove it, I wondered why my foot kept slipping off the clutch pedal . . . .   Also, the clutch is completely spent - no more adjustment at the slave cylinder, even after cutting about 3/16" off the rod - no play in the throwout bearing lever at all.   

Here is a pic - looks fantastic from 15 feet - but it needs to be pushed!

bryanp

Dave - I just noticed your '69 in your footer.  Mine is April-ish '70. 

MiniDave

#60
Wow, my car was originally primrose too, and guess what color it is now?   ;D

I also got rid of the Strombergs, but couldn't afford the triples, so I have 2 SU's, still ran better than with the Strombergs.

No A/C in mine tho, although I did add electronic ignition. I also removed the side marker lights, I just didn't like them, they looked tacked on

Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

bryanp

haha - great minds . . . .
I like the quarter light deletion!
At the risk of turning this into Jag-chat, I am also thinking of a body mod.  I think the Series II is mechanically superior to the older, better looking E-types, but I really dislike the rear taillight-valence treatment of the S.II.  It looks to me like the curvature of the lower taillight arrangement of an Audi Q5 would work, tucked just under the bumpers of the Jag.    The rear quarter lights would also be deleted.

Anyone have any bright ideas about my hub recalcitrance before I go disassembling it?

MPlayle

Use the Audi tail light to make a poster board (cardboard - aka: CAD from Project Binky) template to check the match of the curves?


bryanp

Yes; that is the plan.  I don't really do metal work - at least I don't think I do it very well, especially on a compound curve beauty like this.  I live about 45 minutes from the low-rider capital of the world in Espanola, NM.   I know some of those guys - magicians w/ metal.  When the time comes, I might take the car up there to see if they might take it on. 

First things first, though.  MUST FINISH THE MINI   

MiniDave

#64
Re: your hub, if I understand you one side is difficult to turn left and right? You shimmed the ball joints correctly?

like the look of the Audi tail lights if you can make them work.

I didn't like the looks of the splayed exhaust, so I tucked the center panel and lic plate up higher and used the earlier exhaust twin resonator pipes.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

bryanp

The hubs came fully assembled as part of the disc brake kit from MiniSport. .. .  I wouldn't think they would make that mistake.

I like your tailpipe solution - the license plate could easily be 3" higher on the S.II.

MiniDave

OK, well some folks think a bit of drag is the right way to shim them, they def should not have any play in them at all, so I'd go ahead and drive it as is and see how it does in another 500 miles. It also may feel different with the weight of the car on them.
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

bryanp

I guess I'll start w/ my confession to the group - after 6 months of getting less and less done - 60 hour work weeks, cataract surgery, etc. - I took the Mini to a shop in Denver.  Mini wizard Darren Haines at Ted Ax's shop, Ax & Allies is now honcho-ing my project.   

The more I looked at my OBP pedal box installation, the more I hated it.  Even though OBP instructs one to hang the box from the dash tray on the classic Mini using a steel transition plate, it's just too flimsy - the entire dash tray and C-channel at the leading edge of it were deflecting a lot w/ any pedal operation.  Darren fabricated a firewall mount using misc rectangular steel tube sections.   

Engine/tran/clutch/radiator are in.  The tiny heater from MiniMania is in as well as the rear window brake light from Moss.  We moved the wiper motor to the now-passenger side of the bay and mounted the reservoirs in that niche, clear of the supercharger.  Even though I have the new alum radiator installed, I think I will go ahead and install an elec cheater fan in the wheel well to deal w/ the extra supercharger load.  Does anyone have a favorite?

tmsmini

Looking good! Great to see Darren still has his hands in Minis as well.
Terry

Vikram

Could you please post more pictures of your pedal box mount? Car looks great!

bryanp

thanks.  The pedal box support is out being powder-coated, but I will get/post more pics of it. 

bryanp

Here you go, Vikram - obviously pre-powder-coating. 

BruceK

Gee, that pedal box mount just doesn't look very sturdy at all.





;D
1988 Austin Mini
2002 MINI Cooper S
1992 Toyota LiteAce (JDM)
1997 Jeep Wrangler Sahara

bryanp

I know right?  It holds up the firewall now.   62.gif

MiniDave

#74
Hey Bryan, great to hear from you again, excited to see you're making progress on your build!
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

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