As mentioned in off topic I recently purchased a 78 Pickup thanks to Dan keeping an eye out for me.
So now I have a big box of parts from England and my first step is to get the ignition system up to modern technology.
I am trying to procure a 123 Dizzy setup (yes big $$$ but seems to be worth the money) so I do not have to mess with points condensors and timing all the time.
I have a 1275 A+ engine (best I can tell, one of the tell tale signs is the lack of a tube on the dipstick, it just goes straight into the block) so I "think" this is the dizzy for me.
http://www.7ent.com/products/123-distributor-a-vacuum-advance-sel0006.html (http://www.7ent.com/products/123-distributor-a-vacuum-advance-sel0006.html)
Once I have that part here, I am going for a full tune up and valve adjustment.
Then it is on to other TLC items...
So this is where I am at with her, and hope to put up some pics as I tackle each project one by one....
I've been meaning to get ahold of you to see if you've torn into that heavy box of parts I sent.
It looks like the 123 I have above is the correct one for my engine, going to pull my dizzy this evening and make sure.
Another question:
What Coil should I use?
40K volt 3.0 ohm
40K volt 1.5 ohm
45K volt 0.6 ohm
Looking to grab a petronix flamethrower.
My mind escapes me on the ohms. I will have to research. I know there are a couple year specific coils.
The rating of the coil will need to match the requirements of the distributor. The listing for the distributor says: "Works with any standard or High Energy coil with a minimum 1 ohm resistance."
Based on that and the indication "Dwell is microprocessor controlled, depending on coil current", I would say either of the 40K Volt coils you listed would work fine.
I did some reading on the coil and have to test the resistance of the one in there, then I can decide which to get, this is per the 123 dizzy website.
So, I am tearing in to replace the Dizzy and do a general tune up and am thinking it might be a good idea to pull the AC condenser so make my life easier. It is winter so I can take my time re-installing it. Work space is tight and I really do not like the wiring on the coil at all, it needs to be done properly and get rid of the electrical tape.
I also do not see a vacuum advance hose on the existing dizzy, the nipple is there but no line??? There is a short hose and screw on the intake manifold where I "think" it should be hooked up. Is this a common delete? Does not compute to me.
Hope to have the new dizzy, new plugs, new wires and valves adjusted this weekend. Fingers crossed.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140204_191748_zpsj3pntbmj.jpg)
My mini engine is SPI, so I didn't need the same, but on the Corvair I went Pertronix with the flamethower. If you have any questions they are real good about answering email.
Yes, the vacuum advance delete is a common modification. I never saw much use in deleting it, but some still do it. I have a street car so I opted for the 123 dizzy with vacuum advance.
With that said, if you choose to keep it deleted, you should absolutely cap it at the manifold and the distributor as well. And ditch the hose+bolt technique. It's susceptible to leaks and will cause your fuel mixture to vary. Get a good quality vacuum cap for both nipples... or any open vacuum nipples for that matter.
Nope, I am hooking up the vacuum advance properly. I cannot see a reason to have it deleted. If anything I would think it takes away from throttle response.
After
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140301_163906_zpsiuoqra3o.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20140301_163906_zpsiuoqra3o.jpg.html)
Before
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140301_155337_zpsb601klxs.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20140301_155337_zpsb601klxs.jpg.html)
Now I am trying to decide where to mount the coil. The. Time to test fire her up.
Yeah you need to get a coil cover/holder thingy and ditch the clamps. Typically they are mounting on the one head stud but your condenser may be in the way.
OK did some reading and it appears timing should be set to 8 degrees BTDC. I was going to replace the plugs but the ones in there appear to be pretty new and in good shape. So I left them until I get time to adjust the valves.
I got rid of all the wires and push on connectors on the coil, bundled them together and ran new wires with a washer connector and bolted them on.
I agree Dan that mount sucks but it is all I have right now, one I replace the coil I will replace the mount too.
I do not have a timing light so I am heading out now to get one. I want to test fire her as I put the new dizzy in and think I have it very close to the timing of the old one but may be off a few degrees.
Hope to have running this afternoon and then change the oil.
Sweet. Do you remember the order the plug wires go in? This is usually where I mix a couple up lol.
Did everything perfect. Just fired her up because I was dying from anticipation. She started right up but it was apparent my timing was retarded so I advanced it by ear and she is purring.
Good to know i got everything wired up correct.
I swore I had a timing light but cannot find it, gonna change the oil and then head to Harbor Freight and grab a cheap one since I will rarely use it anymore now that I have the 123 in there.
I just changed the oil and I am concerned. When I removed the magnetic drain plug it looked like a chia pet. Lots and lots of metal shavings, unless this is a mini thing then I am pretty sure a new engine is in my near future.
I put some lucas oil additive in when I changed out and will see if that helps with the wear and maybe buys some time. I cannot do this engine work until after July.
Chia pet metal shavings are common.
Found this rubber in the oil after draining it.
Obviously one of the sources of my many oil leaks.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140302_110111_zpsfqcbv1p5.jpg)
Pulled the valve cover and the engine is very clean inside so I am happy for that. No sludge at least.
Gonna adjust the valves tomorrow night then time it next week so I can start driving her again.
Wow now that's abnormal, wonder what it is??
From the pics, it looks like gasket material. That could be a problem if it blocks a passage somewhere. I;d try to listen with a stethoscope (HF) to see if there are pin-pointable noises.
As far as additives, they can do nothing but harm unless it is something like AutoRx to clean things up. Buy a decent oil and don't try to play chemist.
Quote from: Jims5543 on March 02, 2014, 08:41:33 AM
I swore I had a timing light but cannot find it, gonna change the oil and then head to Harbor Freight and grab a cheap one since I will rarely use it anymore now that I have the 123 in there.
If you are running a 123 dist. you do not need a timing light. It is set at zero degrees TDC and not moved after that. The 123 adjusts the timing as needed for each setting based on it being set at TDC.
Lucas is not a band aid, it is a reputable oil additive that helps with older cars. I would usually laugh at claims that Lucas is anything but snake oil but it appears to be very effective.
I used it in my Rotary engines as well because of its coating ability and the forced induction rotaries proclivity to impregnating oil with gasoline. I figured a little extra insurance is a good thing.
Regardless, I am not expecting miracles, but if it helps a little so be it.
Isn't this fun? I have to move the Alternator out of the way in order to change plug #1.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140302_193201_zpsuqtkvwlk.jpg)
Quote from: Willie_B on March 02, 2014, 05:49:20 PM
Quote from: Jims5543 on March 02, 2014, 08:41:33 AM
I swore I had a timing light but cannot find it, gonna change the oil and then head to Harbor Freight and grab a cheap one since I will rarely use it anymore now that I have the 123 in there.
If you are running a 123 dist. you do not need a timing light. It is set at zero degrees TDC and not moved after that. The 123 adjusts the timing as needed for each setting based on it being set at TDC.
You know what? I think you are right, I remember reading that, I just have to figure out where TDC is and make sure the setting on the 123 is set correct. I completely forgot about that.
Back to reread the manual......
Dang that ac making it hard to change a plug!
Yes it does, but it blows ice cold so I will learn to deal. :D
I just saw a 1275 spi for sale with ac that I'd love to buy. But I gotta build cars with this money instead :(
So I pull the alternator, to do this you have to pull the #2 spark plug in order to remove one of the mounting bolts.. Fun stuff...
I get all the spark plugs out, I then pull the valve cover off, then spin the engine to TDC on the #1 cylinder, I set the timing on the 123 (thanks Willie_B!!) I lit it up at TDC made sure I had the right timing curve and should be good to go. Honestly, when I turned on the ignition the green light was already on where I ad set it by ear. So win win.
So I look down the valve train and see something amiss.... look at the #4 lifters.. sorry for the blurry pic, I must have moved.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140303_185655_zpsjnfelusn.jpg)
Different angle:
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140303_185638_zpsdwntqupm.jpg)
Up close, look down to the right, see something where it should not be as well?
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140303_185631_zps7tiesc1t.jpg)
Just wow!! I adjusted the valves, set the timing, decided to gap and place 4 new plugs. Have new wires in place as well as the new 123. I cannot wait to fire her up tomorrow after work and take her for a spin.
I imagine I have have been running on 3 cylinders all this time..
Ha, missing a nut buddy!
I thought there was a knocking from day one, it kept getting louder so I was assuming it was grenade time for the engine.
So glad I decided to pull the valve cover and adjust the valves today.
I was shocked to see that, I hope there is no permanent damage to that cylinder. I am really hoping it is much peppier now.
Ha yeah you just gained a cylinder. Explains the knocking. Wonder where the nut went. 8.gif
Quote from: 94touring on March 03, 2014, 08:53:23 PM
Ha yeah you just gained a cylinder. Explains the knocking. Wonder where the nut went. 8.gif
I thought I was going to have to match one up at the hardware store, then I noticed it sitting on the head, you can see it in this picture. My guess is that it was not tightened after the last valve adjustment.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140303_185631_zps7tiesc1t.jpg)
Hope all this new found power doesn't go to your head. :-[
Ah, yeah easier to see from my computer now. I'm excited to hear back with the results of how well it's going to run. All those other goodies you got, it's practically a new truck.
I have a completely different truck now. I fired her up and was initially just going to run her up to the corner store.. I kept going, ended up going on a 20-30 minute drive through town looping around.
The acceleration is now what I was expecting, it runs much smoother and has tons more power.
I am going to pop off the valve cover again and make sure everything is staying put. ;)
I also need to learn how to adjust the idle, with it running better now, it is idling at 2400 rpms I looked around and did not see an obvious adjustment so I am off to the shop manuals now.
There is a loud knock coming from the engine now that the valves are quiet. Does not sound good, I hope to have a video of that in a few.
Different than the previous knock huh? You should see an idle adjust screw off the throttle body assembly.
Found the idle adjust.
The knock is the same you can just hear it all the time now and it is worrying.
Here is the shorter vid where I rev the engine a little and it quiets down.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/th_20140304_175729_zpszp8j9ole.jpg) (http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140304_175729_zpszp8j9ole.mp4)
That does not sound good at all. Does it go away when you rev it up or you just cannot hear it then? I chased a clatter/tapping noise for a good while till I found a cracked alt bracket. It would make noise at idle when the cracked parts rubbed each other but when revs went up the parts were pulled apart at the crack thus no noise. Can you slack the fan belt and run it to at least eliminate the alt, water pump and a/c comp?
Another thing you can do is get a long (2') screwdriver or socket ext. and rest one end on the bone just in front of your ear and the other end on parts of the engine. The sound will transmit thru the meal to the bone and you would be surprised what you can hear this way. Move around and chase the sound as it gets louder. Just beware of moving parts.
Yes it goes away.. sort of, I am going to check the Valve clearance again. I suspect the lock nuts are loosening up. I will try some lock tight on there after I make sure I tightened them all correctly.
I swear that constant knock was not there when I initially started it and was there after a 30 minute drive.
Is there enough space to double nut it?
:D
I consider double nutting them yes.....
But, looking at the pics there is no room.
I just busted out laughing. A bunch of guys in the crew room gave me a funny look.
I think the "pc term" here is locknut.
Nice job there Mr. Busta Nut.
Bahahaha. Double nut. Gonna have to use that one.
Thinking about this more I do not recall the constant knock when I first started it before the 30 minute drive.
I suspect a valve is out of adjustment again.
I am going to try to find time to adjust them again tonight.
That would be something if that one won't stay tight. Seems like there would have been tons of racket if you had two things knocking like crazy. I'm going to have to make a pit stop down sooner or later.
Just finished checking the valve train and everything was fine in there. I think the knocking is a con rod bearing. 2400 RPM's is where it likes the knock the most.
Hope she lasts until July, if not, oh well. That is what I get for buying it sight unseen. edit - not a fair assumption --- to the seller I apologize. - jim
edit
Just adjusted the idle and have another question.
I know the cable and butterfly closer to the engine is the throttle. I am assuming the one closer to the firwall is the choke? It is attached to a knob on the dashboard that I assumed was a HVAC control but now see is a hand choke.... I think.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140305_194859_zpsavmzgw1n.jpg)
Yes that's the choke. I guess it's been warm enough you haven't needed it?
LOL!! I would have probably started easier if I had known.
I set the idle to 1200 rpm it seemed happier there. I can also yank the choke to keep her running in a pinch. ;D
We are expecting a really bad day weather wise tomorrow, but a really nice one on Friday so I am going to take her to work Friday. Hope she does not shit out a con rod.
I need to start weighing my options for a new engine.
:-[ yes Jim the choke makes things easy. ;D.
Out of curiosity, what RPM should I be idling at?
I noticed if I turned on the headlights is made her unhappy so I had to raise the idle, if I turn on the AC well, that is another can of worms. I would love to wire in a cycle switch to kick up the idle RPM when the compressor kicks in.
850-1000 range normally if memory serves me. Most don't have tachs so it's whatever works. Given that you have ac it's going to throw a curveball in there.
Buttoned up the front end last night, she is ready for action tomorrow, weather permitting.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140305_213622_zpsalcvd28q.jpg)
Picked up this little sucker off of Amazon. I am going to mount it under the seat and then mount some speakers I had laying around so I can stream Sirius through my cel phone and through this.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140305_213026_zpsi9ifq4pv.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140305_213327_zpsjpods0hn.jpg)
Currently, with the help of 94 Touring, shopping for a replacement engine or a loaner car. Probably going to swap it in sooner than later.
Can I drop the oil pan with the engine still in the car? I would love to take a look and see what is what in there.
Quote from: Jims5543 on March 06, 2014, 01:39:18 PM
Can I drop the oil pan with the engine still in the car? I would love to take a look and see what is what in there.
You were suprised by the rubber bits in your oil...wait till you get into the oil pan and see all the gears in it!
;D
It's technically possible to drop the "oil pan", but the oil pan is the transmission. haha. I would highly recommend pulling the engine out and separating the transmission that way. It's not a small task either, so plan on a bit of time without the car.
After driving her all day today I am not convinced it is a con-rod bearing. I am thinking it may be a rocker arm, the one that was loose, is the culprit.
I am going to investigate this some more over the weekend.
Oil pressure is great, I think.
At start up it hits 40 then 60 PSI, once warmed up at 1500 rpm idle it is at 20 PSI and at 3K rpms driving runs around 25-30 psi.
I would expect it to be a little higher once warm. You running 20-50? Maybe you're a tad low.
Oil level is a little on the high side. Running Castrol GTX 20W50 with half a pint of Lucas oil stabilizer in there too.
Yup, once warmed up she runs from 20PSI to 30PSI I rarely see 40 PSI unless the revs are up.
Of course who the hell knows how accurate the pressure gauge is.
Yeah at 3k rpms I'd be looking for 45-55 psi. I know you changed the oil and found a bunch of rubber and crap in there. Could be a number of things including the gauge. 8.gif
Maybe a faulty oil pressure relieve valve too. Since you had junk in the oil undo the domed nut on the front of the engine and see if anything is keeping the spring open.
Here's a pic of your oil pan.
(bringing my 1098 into an engine shop tomorrow for an evaluation so conveniently just separated the engine/transmission this afternoon - thought it poignant to the discussion)
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniStripDown/i-dfvdQDw/0/L/smugshot_2359766-L.jpg)
Edit: what the heck happened to the tappet covers? Someone please remind me in a couple years when I've finally got the motor together, back in the car, and none of the valves are opening and closing that I have to pull the engine again and separate the engine/transmission to put them in... 22.gif
Quote from: 94touring on March 07, 2014, 02:04:47 PM
Maybe a faulty oil pressure relieve valve too. Since you had junk in the oil undo the domed nut on the front of the engine and see if anything is keeping the spring open.
Gonna pull that tomorrow evening and see what is up.
Mudhen, thanks for the pic it all makes sense now. I am not "dropping an oil" pan anytime soon.
Gonna do some serious engine flushing at my wifes cousins shop next week.
I may finally get lettered up Wednesday.
I was driving it around Saturday evening running errands and took the turn into my subdivision WAY TOO FAST and had the back end slide out drastically.... I was like.. wait, I know this feel ( from my JCW CooperS days) and just pointed the front wheels where I wanted to go and punched it... FUN would be an understatement. My next thought was, "I need to Autocross this".
:D
4.gif
Yes, pickups are light on the back end. Back in the 60's I used to do the hairpin turns here in the mountains (gravel/dirt roads) by kicking out the rear.
I loaded my bed up with so much lumber one time the front end nearly came off the ground.
I took the front tires of a Ford Explorer off the ground with the lumber I loaded in it (and out the back).
Quote from: 94touring on March 07, 2014, 02:04:47 PM
Maybe a faulty oil pressure relieve valve too. Since you had junk in the oil undo the domed nut on the front of the engine and see if anything is keeping the spring open.
Someone want to point out where the domed nut is on the front of the engine, I want to pull it and clean it out.
If all goes as planned on Monday I am taking it in for 2 engine flushes. (I am adding a bunch of MMO to the engine oil as well for my drive to the shop where we are doing the flushing.
Once there we are flushing it, then refilling with the Car Quest oul and Fram filter I got with the car, then driving about 30 - 40 mile then flushing again, then filling with proper oil and filter.
I would like to pop open this dome nut and see whats up in there too...
Look to the left of the distributor, and below the oil pressure sensor. If you find a double nut you've gone too far.
QuoteIf all goes as planned on Monday I am taking it in for 2 engine flushes. (I am adding a bunch of MMO to the engine oil as well for my drive to the shop where we are doing the flushing.
Once there we are flushing it, then refilling with the Car Quest oul and Fram filter I got with the car, then driving about 30 - 40 mile then flushing again, then filling with proper oil and filter.
While flushing is not generally recommended, you have a case where it may be appropriate. but the most important thing in a flush is a new filter each time. If the flush does anything, it will clog the filter and go through the bypass.
Quote from: 94touring on March 13, 2014, 06:39:46 PM
Look to the left of the distributor, and below the oil pressure sensor. If you find a double nut you've gone too far.
That happened to me once in Miami, I really do not want to relive that.
Richard, I agree I have never flushed an engine in my life, but I feel this is a case that warrants it. I suspect I will be yanking this engine over the summer.
Down here our seasons are reversed we drive the wheels off the fun cars all winter and do our projects in the summer.
Just don't forget...when you're throwing additives in that are meant for normal cars...our sumps have gears in them. :(
Quote from: Mudhen on March 14, 2014, 06:26:01 PM
Just don't forget...when you're throwing additives in that are meant for normal cars...our sumps have gears in them. :(
Good point and I will keep it in mind, I will be gentle on the old girl.
Dan,
I looked this afternoon between my 50 honey do's around the house and it looks like that nut is behind the A/C evaporator, which sucks. Gonna try to tear in tomorrow and clean it out. It appears to be just below the oil sending unit on my car. Which I am going to pull out and make sure is clear too.
Realtor is coming tomorrow at 1 for us to sign a contract to list for sale. Lots of tidying to do still.
So much stress..
I will start a thread in off topic about my housing change when it is clearer what I am doing. If I get what I want it is a car guys dream...
Mother nature said, you shall not pass!!
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/weather_zps65599bac.jpg)
Postponed until better weather, we are on tornado watches here.
Quote from: Jims5543 on March 17, 2014, 01:04:53 PM
Mother nature said, you shall not pass!!
Postponed until better weather, we are on tornado watches here.
Life should not be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside in a cloud of smoke, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming "Wow! What a Ride! -Hunter S. Thompson
:D Yeah, I am not worried about my body, I am beating my liver to death. I do not want to mess up the car. ;D
Quote from: Jims5543 on March 17, 2014, 03:12:25 PM
:D Yeah, I am not worried about my body, I am beating my liver to death. I do not want to mess up the car. ;D
:D
4.gif
I think I am at 70 hours worked this week as I sit right now before I even go home and do 4 more hours tonight and then another long day tomorrow. Good problem.
I do not have any free time right now but have some thoughts..
The initial knock is indeed a con rod bearing I know that sound all too well and it goes away the second there is oil pressure.
This other ghastly knock we are hearing is something else, it is definitely inside the motor and I am thinking it is a bad rocker arm.
Dan, is it expensive to buy a rocker assembly? If it is reasonable I am thinking I want to put a new one in. See if things quiet down. In the meantime I am going to do some more listening and even grab one of those stethoscopes from HF and snoop around.
Oil pressure, I am going to pull the sending unit and make sure it is clean and clear and maybe even put a different oil pressure sensor in to compare and see if mine is even accurate.
I am also considering seeing if I can back flow through the oil pump and maybe clean / clear it out.
Just some thoughts... back to work!!!
I probably have some rockers here I could send to you for postage. If they work we can work out a deal, if not you can mail them back.
Deal! Sending email.
Oh and another anomaly...
When the car is cold and not warmed up yet, no knocking, the warmer it gets the louder the knock... and by knock I mean a wrapping sound that could be confused with a bearing knock, but I am sure it is not.
I also notice at different loads and RPM's it seems to change and there is a sweet spot around 3K rpm with no load where it goes away.
This is going to be interesting chasing down.
I wish I was more engine savvy but I am not.
Doesn't that make sense for main bearings? When cold the oil is thick as mud...no knocking. As it warms up and thins out the knocking starts up.
Or what about crank thrust washers? When you hit that 3k rpm sweet spot with no load on anything there's no play?
I would drain whatever oil is in there out...don't put anything else in it. Then start it up, crank it to 9k or so...
Then build a new motor. Easy peasy.
4.gif
Unfortunately by the time most people find me it is forensic. Dead.
But
Yes, sounds more like main bearings, and those are not that hard to replace.
I would not suspect the thrust bearings as the would normally only show up on acceleration deceleration change. but you can just push or pull on the pulley to see that. I had extreme play in my Corvair engine.
When I start up cold there is a loud knock, then the oil pressure rises after seconds and the knock is gone, then is is very quiet. Then as it heats up a different sounding knock makes its arrival.
I will see if I have any shaft play. Really dreading the inevitable, at least until I get into my new home. I have no garage space here and a engine pull and rebuild, while not impossible will be a PITA I am really hoping our meeting Monday with the builder gives me happy answers. If I get what I want I will get a 22x35 garage space purely for playing car.
This is what I built. In general for two cars, but I can fit three in it. Work bench is 8' x 3" lumber mounted in end walls.
Tool/work area separated with lockable sliding door.
Nice setup Richard I love it!! I also love your cars, is that a E30 Vert I see? and a Nader mobile!! LOL!!
This is my initial plan I made this up last night to bring to the builder. This is the plan for the garage / office. Once this is built I will move my business into it.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8RAuWivhfQTc2NwYThUb09Qc3M/edit?usp=sharing
Yep, 1988 325ic.
(http://www.widman.biz/Corvair/images/BMW_restore/cars.jpg)
More pics on http://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/Other/bmw.html (http://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/Other/bmw.html)
The Corvair restoration is detailed in
http://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/index.html (http://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/index.html)
My son is a E30 fanatic, he currently has a 318is with a 1995 M3 Motor swapped in. Total wolf in sheeps clothing.
This is his 3rd E30 that has owned. Now he is toying with moving on to something newer, he was looking at the new 128i. Which is really a detuned 130i seems the 3.0 is used in the 125 and 128 and the X3. In the X3 is has 280HP in the 128 it has 230 and in the 125 it has 210(?) The only real difference is the ECU mapping which tuners are having a hell of a time cracking.
Gotta head out in the field will check out the Corvair build this evening.
Sons 318is:
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140321_095056_zpsdmtbquv6.jpg)
Not exactly a 1.8 in there. :D
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/WP_20130123_013_zps6d076ef8.jpg)
Thanks Dan!! Your influence on me is astounding.
This will eliminate the question of the bad rocker arm(s)
(http://www.minisport-usa.com/mini-spare-parts/MSLMS0480.jpg)
I also purchased a new spring and cover for the oil pressure regulator.
73.gif
One of the interesting features of my BMW is that I got it in 1996 by making a ridiculously low bid at a sealed bid auction. I bid at the insistence of the guy in charge who said he would not be offended by any bid. That the auction closed in a few hours and his job was to see that it went to the highest bidder, no matter what the bid was. I was going to bid half the appraised value, then added a thousand for good measure.
He called that night and said congratulations.
Phase 1 of the roll bar and nautical brightwork removal complete. Phase 2 will remove the diamond plating and replace with a custom made vinyl bed cover. I am trying to utilize the existing hardware left over from a previous soft bed cover, existing on the truck.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140330_185421_zpsmz16h7b8.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140330_185436_zpss2kw7fca.jpg)
Weight reduction mods! Which actually are probably significant given the weight of the car to begin with.
Great news!! I stopped off at a boat canvas manufacturer to see if they could help me, they only do boats but told me about an out of the way shop near my house that might do it.
I stopped off there this afternoon, and it turns out the owner lives in my neighborhood 2 blacks from me.
He came by my house and checked out the Mini, I am dropping it off to his shop on Thursday and he is making 2 covers, 1 black and 1 white made out of heavy duty vinyl. He is also replacing all the hardware with stainless. In addition he can get the stringers that bow up the cover for $10 each. Total cost in parts will be around $100 then I just need to pay his labor.
Dan, I thought of you right away and wondered if there was a way to do this long distance. I will inquire on Thursday.
I am pretty stoked right now, this is happening a lot faster than expected. I decided to get 2 colors for a couple of reasons, one was because I was not sure which color will look better, and second, if I like the white on there I will save it for car shows, meets, etc.. and use the black one for daily work duties.
Should be done by Monday if all goes as planned.
Quote from: Jims5543 on April 01, 2014, 06:15:26 PM
the owner lives in my neighborhood 2 blacks from me.
Damn racist, LOL.
That is awesome. Make an extra "black" one and I'll buy it and pay shipping. I'll need the hardware and stringers also. Let me know the final cost after labor.
Quote from: 94touring on April 01, 2014, 06:25:18 PM
Quote from: Jims5543 on April 01, 2014, 06:15:26 PM
the owner lives in my neighborhood 2 blacks from me.
Damn racist, LOL.
That is awesome. Make an extra "black" one and I'll buy it and pay shipping. I'll need the hardware and stringers also. Let me know the final cost after labor.
Not that easy. Remember I have a very custom bed on mine and yours probably measures different.
We may be able to do this using my car as a partial template and you supplying measurements.
My bed measures 47 7/8" across and 50" from the back of the cab to the end of the bed. I have a 5/8" wood rail on top of the bed all around.
I would love to remove it but fear there is nothing under it. I am really not too sure what is going on back there.
Here are a few pics of my setup:
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140401_220147_zpsq8jjacfq.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140401_220158_zpstnm7jsna.jpg)
Should I try to remove the fiberglass / wood lining inside?
Some pics of the inside of the bed:
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140401_220451_zpsh3qcw86b.jpg)
This is right above the wheel well:
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140401_220500_zps8hesfzeg.jpg)
Some shots from underneath, I think there is metal there, I think this is just an elaborate bed liner:
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140401_221116_zps7vwj8evy.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140401_221146_zpsfh9tx3hi.jpg)
hmmm... gonna get under there and replace the fuel filter.
Oh ok. Yeah just subtract the wood from the dimensions and Bob's your fathers brother.
Get me a pic of your bed so I can compare, I really want all this removed from mine. I would love to get it back down to the original bed.
Here's a view of what it should look like.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1119)
Whoa.... I have a lot of shit in my bed.
Take that out of context Dan!! ;D
I think I may go to work on it tomorrow evening. Progress pics to follow.
I hope you're weighing all this extra crap you're taking off. I'm curious how weighted down you are. Also a bit scared what you may find under there! Pickups tend to have lived a rough life as work trucks.
Yeah, I will get a total weight of the ballast once it is removed.
LOL is is 1:20 in the morning here and I just spent about 45 minutes in the garage trying to take that stuff off. So many screws, so much caulking.
If I can just get the top rail off by Thursday I will be happy, I am not 100% sure how it is on there yet, it is loose so there is that.
I am not much of a woodworker but there seems to be plugs inserted into holes, hiding screws that are holding it on. I was able to put a wood screw into a few and pop some of the plugs out. Others are in there good, time to get something more aggressive.
PITA to take out, but man...gotta admire the time and effort the person took to do that thing. :o
I agree it would be nicer to get rid of all that junk, especially since the longer wood stays in contact with the metal, the more rust forms.
Not to be discouraging, but here is what I found
Wood added by PO (a carpenter)
(http://www.widman.biz/mini_pics/body/Rear.jpg)
Rust behind bed seat
(http://www.widman.biz/mini_pics/stripping/Rust_in_rear_panel.jpg)
Richard, what a mess!!!
Finally got all the wood off the rails and I be damned if I can figure out how to get it out of the bed. Ran out of time, the tonneau cover guy wanted the truck this evening and I think it will be done by weeks end. He also knows to make an extra black cover for you Dan. I told him to make a template, not sure how many Mini Truck guys there are out there but I found a source for tonneau covers. I will let you know the cost when it is done.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140402_181330_zpsfpzz8fry.jpg)
Rails are in pretty good shape, pretty rust free just full of screw holes.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140402_181346_zpsqtimrbwk.jpg)
All the crap that came off, I did not weigh it but to guess? About 40-50 lbs worth.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140402_182419_zpsy1shdfb5.jpg)
The black tonneau cover material I like the sheen look to it.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140402_181323_zpsbdclqxof.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140402_181319_zpsxqwvqert.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140402_181319_zpsxqwvqert.jpg)
Looking forward to your final. I've been thinking about what or how to do it.
This is how a friend did his 56 Austin
Interesting...
Look what i found while searching for images.
http://www.plmini.com/proj_pickup.htm (http://www.plmini.com/proj_pickup.htm)
It is a bit of history on my truck. Seems it has some pretty decent upgrades to it.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/IMG_2016_zpsww5e5b6n.jpg)
Now to remove the old turnbuckles and make it look nice until I take her off the road for paint and stuff...
Looks great. How much extra bed space do you have with all the wood out?
To be honest, I do not have the truck yet, he is fitting the while cover on it in the morning and I am picking it up in the afternoon.
He sent me that pic around 7 PM today.
One hurdle he hit is my bed is not square, I am not 100% sure how far off it was, if I remember the phone conversation correctly, he said it was about 1/2" off along the tail gate.
What I would probably need you to measure is 4 places, side rail to side rail in the front and in the rear. Then from the back of the cab to the back of the tail gate on each side. See if everything parallel.
He told me he would send you the vinyl cut and sewn without the snaps mounted (but with the snaps for you to mount) and the cross bow beams and mounting hardware for them. He told me to tell you to swing by with it and he would be happy to mount it up.
I should send him the pic you posted of it. Actually I told him you were in Tulsa so no bueno.
I took all the old turnbuckles off. There is significant rust under every single one. They were never sealed properly when installed.
Kind of a drag.
Also the cost of one of these covers custom made to fit your bed is $400. This includes the top the wood strigers with their stainless mounting hardware and stainless snaps to attach it to the bed rail.
You just need to let him know the dimensions of the bed outer rail to outer rail across in the front and back the from the back of the cab to the end of the bed next the gate on both sides.
I will post some detailed pics tomorrow.
I only had a couple of hours this morning. I wanted to clean up the bed some and found even more work to do.
Some pics:
I am really not sure what this is all about, I cements my opinion that whoever put the diamond plate, deck rails and flying bridge on this poor truck was a boat guy. The hosing used in the second pic is the kind of hose you would find on a boat.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140406_104001_zpsjhmxnvbq.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140406_103947_zpsmc3wu6ay.jpg)
This wood board is what I threw into the truck when I first got it, it was cut to the exact dimensions of the bed when all the wood was in it. It kind of shows you how much room I picked up.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140406_103929_zpsbf133zzx.jpg)
Are these things/holes normally on a pickup? (you can also see the cross rail hardware, a stainless snap and the rust under the turn buckle)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140406_110525_zpsx6syt4j5.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140406_110514_zpsmscfvgjl.jpg)
Oh and I have the white cover now too. ;D
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140406_122730_zpsgnnihdln.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140406_122709_zpsx7hkj4pl.jpg)
Some pretty wild hose work. Love that white cover and white roof combo!
Yeah, I am on the fence with the white cover. It is much whiter than the roof, makes the roof look yellowish.
I need to take a pic of the bed all cleaned up I forgot to I spent most of the 2 hours spraying it down with de-greaser and scrubbing it clean.
With the metal removed, the wood bed liner, the hundred or so screws holding it all on I would guess about 70 lbs of weight has been removed from the bed.
Oh you probably have an old English white roof. From my phone it looks good. Nice 5% weight reduction!
I do not want to tear it up so can someone explain how to remove the front Austin badge on the hood? I found a new one to put on.
It's either going to be double sided adhesive tape, or there will be 2 or 3 tiny holes that it clips into through the bonnet. If it's tape just lightly pry it off.
I have now changed the oil 3x in 1000 miles. The last 2 changes were done in 300 mile intervals, and sea foam was added prior to the oil change to help flush the engine out. I also pulled the oil pump spring and replaced with a new one, while it was out and I was draining the oil, I sprayed some WD 40 through the hole until I saw it running out the drain plug.
Then I filled it up with oil fill #3 and added 5 ounces of Sea Foam, then drove it 300 miles, then drained it again.
Now, all 3 oil changes, no matter how many miles, the oil was blacker than black. The rubber I found in the first oil change was present in #2 and by #3 there was one small piece, I feel it is all flushed out now.
She is filled up now and this weekend I am going to attach a external oil pressure gauge and see what the oil pressure really is.
Then the new rockers are being installed this weekend as well.
You're really taking good care of this thing. 4.gif
Quote from: 94touring on April 24, 2014, 09:48:48 PM
You're really taking good care of this thing. 4.gif
I am trying... I stood at the car show last weekend and looked at these guys pristine Mini's one came in on a trailer and was humbled. I just want to drive it it man, that was probably my last car show. I mean judged ones, I have no problem with the cars and coffee type where folks are just coming out for fun.
The Mini's at the show over the weekend we so perfect I would be afraid to drive them. My only debate right now is whether to pull the engine this summer and rebuild it. I will know that answer after this weekend.
If the knocking continues- and you go in deep into the motor be sure to check into the Cam lobes and Lifters.
Friends mini - Knock clack at idle - goes away once a little rev is there. We took whole motor part- except the cam out- Bearings were in good shape- nothing apparently loose.. re assembled. Same knock Clack... Has to be the camshaft in his car.
He has driven the car for another year with the clack - about 6000 miles... this weekend preparing to pull the motor for a full refresh on the boottom end- including Camshaft kit- with lifters and springs to be included- New bearings all around.
The clack has not been detrimental- but more annoying at idle and traffic and stoplights.
Just something to look for...
Quote from: jedduh01 on April 25, 2014, 08:13:20 AM
If the knocking continues- and you go in deep into the motor be sure to check into the Cam lobes and Lifters.
Friends mini - Knock clack at idle - goes away once a little rev is there. We took whole motor part- except the cam out- Bearings were in good shape- nothing apparently loose.. re assembled. Same knock Clack... Has to be the camshaft in his car.
He has driven the car for another year with the clack - about 6000 miles... this weekend preparing to pull the motor for a full refresh on the boottom end- including Camshaft kit- with lifters and springs to be included- New bearings all around.
The clack has not been detrimental- but more annoying at idle and traffic and stoplights.
Just something to look for...
This is exactly what I think is going on. I had an old Dodge Colt (Mitsubishi engine) with a con rod bearing knock and it is a completely different sound than this.
I purchased a new set of rockers and I am hoping to put them on this weekend and praying this quiets things down some. Fingers crossed!!
She does not run hot, she is not lacking in power anymore not that I have her running on all 4 cylinders at once. LOL!!
I really think this is either a bad lifter or more than one or a peripheral. I hope to have time and good news after the weekend.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140508_135615_zps4s5ox8m2.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20140508_135615_zps4s5ox8m2.jpg.html)
Ok what's the story!
Quote from: 94touring on May 08, 2014, 12:16:17 PM
Ok what's the story!
No story, I decided this is the best way to drive the mini around.
Actually, this is a good new bad news and glad the truck is not burned to the ground.
I had been smelling gas after driving it but could not find the source, well, today, the smell was overwhelming while driving and once I stopped it would not restart.
Dumb ass that I am, I left the ignition on after trying to start it and, of course, it not starting. So I popped the "bonnet" (see? using proper words here) and took a gander as to what was going on, when I discovered, much to my dismay, that the float was puking fuel out, and there was fuel dripping onto the smoking hot header below...
At this point I expelled excrement into my shorts, shouted expletives, and ran for the back of the truck where I keep some rags and a extra fire extinguisher. I ran to the front and though to myself, why is there so much F*cking fuel flowing out? Then remembered the ignition was still on. I ran to the drivers door and shut it off. The ran back and readied the fire extinguisher for the inevitable..... then waited and waited... No Micheal Bay explosion occurred, much to my relief, then I was upset because I pooped my pants for nothing.
So I put a rag under what I am assuming is a float bowl, then felt around under there, I pulled out a loose piece of metal wiring that I guess was supposed to be on some sort of braided cover for a fuel line that runs from the bottom of the carb to the bottom of this float. The hose was dry rotted, cooked to brittleness, useless and leaking like a tap on a keg at a frat party. Touching it further caused it to fall apart and fall off.
So I now know the source of my pesky gas smell.
I am also VERY happy the truck did not go up in flames.
I am taking this as a hint that it is time to stop driving it and do the things I need to do this summer. I am installing a window AC unit into the garage and going to work on her. Lots of projects are scheduled, like all the stuff that came in the 70 lb. box is going on her now.
How hard is it to rebuild a Carb? Should I take this opportunity to pull the single and go double? worth the trouble?
So many questions....
That story made me laugh 4.gif I've had the same thing happen to me before. These carbs are easy to rebuild, so I don't think you'll struggle there. You'll gain power from dual carbs, however tuning them can be a headache.
With all the airline people around this place I'm sure they can solve that problem for you.
I just picked up new ones for my '65 (twin carbs so got 2) - I know I just replaced them a couple hundred miles ago. 8.gif
Oh ya, 200 miles ago, in 2004. Guess I won't complain.
So what carb do you have???
This is the carb.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140508_211112_zpstzlots4n.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20140508_211112_zpstzlots4n.jpg.html)
And thisbis the hose that broke. Seems to be rekated to the choke somehow.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140508_211050_zps2mubd2rn.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20140508_211050_zps2mubd2rn.jpg.html)
Yep. Head into the store and browse the carb rebuild parts and gaskets. I'm too rusty to look at the pic of your carb and identify the model.
This is the correct carb rebuild kit
http://www.7ent.com/products/carb-service-kit-hs4-single-plastic-jet-csk52.html (http://www.7ent.com/products/carb-service-kit-hs4-single-plastic-jet-csk52.html)
This is the same rebuild kit for the same price and it is sold by our host.
http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?action=store;sa=view;id=167 (http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?action=store;sa=view;id=167)
I went with this one.
They don't look the same to me...never seen one like the one here before. It has a metal body and plastic emulsion tube??? Interesting...
(I've never seen one of these carbs in person, though, just the 1 1/4" 'ers whose jets look like the 7ent ones).
It's actually the same as this one they sell.
http://www.7ent.com/products/carb-service-kit-hs4-1975-on-csk65.html (http://www.7ent.com/products/carb-service-kit-hs4-1975-on-csk65.html)
Although upon further investigation this metal style is for a later model, but this one is the earlier style. Guess I can raise my price on the other one now, lol.
http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?action=store;sa=view&id=394 (http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?action=store;sa=view&id=394)
Here we go..... Carb is pulled, valve cover is loose, pulling plugs and alternator tomorrow, throwing in new rockers and rebuilding Carb.
I have never rebuilt a carb before, any tips? Is there a good DIY thread somewhere? You Tube Video?
I am also pressurizing the AC system and marking the condensor leak, gonna pull it and either solder it myself or have a radiator shop do it.
Hope to have the girl back on the road in a few weeks.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140602_204146_zpsw7urxcjt.jpg)
Nah just tear into it man 77.gif. You'll need to torque the rockers to a specific setting though. I had to take down my Haynes manual pdf files that had the torque settings, but I bet you can Google it.
I have a couple of shop manuals, I was planning on looking that up.
Did a search on an HS4 rebuild and there are some MG rebuild Video's.... close enough. ;D
I miss driving her and really want the AC working again.
Started putting in the new rockers this evening.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140605_191853_zpsmhlwzyfq.jpg)
Then this happened. Dan, you have the same rockers. I am not very confident in these anymore. As I was tightening the lock nut and holding the screw tight it came apart way too easy.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140605_201332_zpsurbyv7c0.jpg)
I scavenged a screw off the old rockers and hope I can use it. I will try this again over the weekend, the weather is better here, so the boat is back on the front burner.
Ironically I have done the same thing before, busted a bolt, and I was pissed the hell off. They are easy to over torque I guess. I had to order a new bolt, but I suppose you have some extras laying around?
going to see if the bolt from the old rockers will fit in there.
I was so pissed off I just put away the tools and walked away.....
I will revisit this on Sunday.
Yeah happens. Kind of funny I get to relive some of my past agonies through you lol.
BTW- Looking in the cylinders to get to TDC of each, I noticed #4 is really carboned up inside. I am sure it is a result of the rocker that was not functioning.
I was thinking I spraying it down inside with some sea foam and letting it soak while I work on the other stuff and see if it clears it out some.
Yes? No?
Leave it alone and just wait for the inevitable engine rebuild?
This was me in the garage after the bolt broke....
(http://resource.mmgn.com/pwnage/user_13557_TYT54RMM.jpg)
Great pic ;D. I've heard good things with sea foam. The flur car apparently got a treatment before I bought it to clear a sticking valve.
Showed that pic of the snapped bolt to a good friend of mine that is a aircraft mechanic and he said even Ray Charles could tell that was a defective bolt and to be very weary of the rest of them.
2 questions...
1. When taking apart the carb I noticed the float is filled with fluid. Is this normal or is my float effed?
2. I have my carb rebuild kit, and my Jet Assembly is different that what I have on the car. I cannot get the linkage to hook up.
Red is the new one black is the old one. The new one is about 90° different where the linkage connects.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140607_153246_zpslf78chmd.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140607_153251_zpshxxnqdao.jpg)
Hmmm ok let me post some pics and we'll look at the orientation 8.gif
Ok this is a red hs4
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/store/medium_1_22_11_13_1_14_51.jpeg)
Black HS6
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/store/medium_1_22_11_13_1_09_35.jpeg)
And Black HS2
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/store/medium_1_22_11_13_1_05_54.jpeg)
Wait...this may explain it.
(http://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/server5600/79cdd/products/1672/images/6120/AUD9141-2_new__58135.1318276948.1280.1280.jpg?c=2)
Looks like I need a 9142, I have a new 9141 and it does not fit.
I am this close to dropping $500 and just buying an entire new fucking carb. This car has been off the road for almost a month now and I am getting frustrated with the setbacks.
Anyone that says a rotary car is unreliable has not owned a Mini. Next time I see someone post something online that says something along those lines, I am going to laugh at them.
Well, blessing in disguise, I was looking over the fuel lines in the engine bay, I am not happy with the routing, the current route takes if about an inch from the exhaust header which seems stupid to me and most likely a reason for hot start issues.
I am stopping off at the auto parts store tomorrow and buying soem hard and soft line to re-route it up an away from the exhaust.
I am also going to see about fabbing a heat shield to protect the bottom of the carb and deflect some of the radiating heat from it.
Sucks, I think most of us have been right there with you at some point, though. It will get better!
(only kidding, it won't, but don't want you to defect so soon into your ownership 71.gif )
Gas line purchased hope to have some time tomorrow to start routing the new line in.
Question, I am having a hard time getting this evaporator repaired, the shop I went to which I was sure could do it cannot work on aluminum so I need to find a tig welder that is willing to work on a evaporator.
I would prefer to just buy another one, anyone have a clue where I could shop for one?
I can take a few pics of it if needed so we can identify if it is an Austin (BMC) part or aftermarket.
Option 3 is to grind it down some, clean it up real good and try to pug the hole with JB Weld and see if that holds. Hell, I had JB weld in the intake ports of my RX7 motor where we ported into the water jackets doing an insanely aggressive porting job. It has been in there for years and lots of miles problem free. Decent pressure and lots of heat.
It's my understanding they no longer make them. I guess you could shop for one that's the same size and try to retro fit, jb weld, or find a shop that can repair it.
If it is an original Mini AC unit, you could try Rudy at 'Mr. Grean' in Ontario (Canada). He breaks down Japanese Mini's all the time and would probably have a few AC parts around. It's worth a try...
http://mr-grean.com/details.php?id=3156&i=0&t=usedPart (http://mr-grean.com/details.php?id=3156&i=0&t=usedPart)
Tim.
Quote from: Mudhen on June 08, 2014, 04:51:09 PM
Sucks, I think most of us have been right there with you at some point, though. It will get better!
(only kidding, it won't, but don't want you to defect so soon into your ownership 71.gif )
I am not giving up, I plan on keeping this little truck for a long long time.
I just wonder if it will ever be dependable? It gets frustrating when it takes over a week or sometimes 3 weeks to get simple parts, only to find out there were variations in the car and you never really know if you are getting the right part.
My piece o crap truck was my daily driver. My ex wife daily drove the other mini. They do better when used on a regular basis once you get the growing pains out of the way.
I have always maintained cars are meant to be driven, the problems start when you let them sit too long. No car I have ever site more than a week.... well, the damn mini has been parked for almost a month now. ;D Oops I meant.. :(
Quote from: Tim on June 11, 2014, 07:01:17 PM
If it is an original Mini AC unit, you could try Rudy at 'Mr. Grean' in Ontario (Canada). He breaks down Japanese Mini's all the time and would probably have a few AC parts around. It's worth a try...
http://mr-grean.com/details.php?id=3156&i=0&t=usedPart (http://mr-grean.com/details.php?id=3156&i=0&t=usedPart)
Tim.
Thank you, going to take some detailed pics and shoot him an email. If he has one I will grab 2. ;D
If mr green does not have one I have a spare from the last jdm front clip I took apart.
Jim you'll get there buddy. My truck has been parked for 7 years. Every mini I tear into inevitable takes longer than planned due to extra parts being required.
Ordered a 9142 and got it today.... it is the same as the wrong one.... mother....
In a fit of rage, I tore all 3 that I had in my possession apart and made 1 of the one I need. The carb is somewhat back together and in the truck again.
I am still working on the new fuel line routing and heat shield, should have that done this weekend if the weather is bad, if it is nice I will be submerged most of it.
Wow, still wrong! That sucks :-[ what was involved with modifying what you have?
I used the old one, I pulled the brass fitting off removed what was left of the rotting hose, then did the same with the new one putting the new hose on the old jet.
http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20140614_185434_zpsqxklenvt.mp4.html (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20140614_185434_zpsqxklenvt.mp4.html)
Oh yeah.......
Sounds pretty smooth in the video. I guess your fab job on the jet is holding up just fine? 77.gif Did you have to recrimp anything? What about the rocker bolts?
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/IMG_20140615_071024_zpszkpvqftl.jpg)
Got up at 6:00 and took a ride to the beach for a sunrise. She is hesitating down low but pulls likes a raped ape up high.
Drove her for a good 30 minutes this morning when I got home I popped the hood and checked around. No gas leaks. Just have to figure out the hesitation. I may have a vacuum leak.
4.gif
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/2014-06-15%2007.19.04_zps2ugjph9g.png) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/2014-06-15%2007.19.04_zps2ugjph9g.png.html)
Another pics because pics are fun. This is The House of Refuge. These were set up in the 1800's along the Florida coast and served as a safe place for shipwrecked sailers to go. This is one of the remaining locations and is a museum now.
Straighten the spot lights! Lol
I did see top.pic. it will not stay.put and I cannot figure out how to tighten it.
Did some quick editing just to try and show off the car a bit more. Love the shots though.
Gratzi!! I will save those when I get home.
You should see a bolt with possibly a hex end that is used to tighten the spot lamps.
Quote from: Jims5543 on June 15, 2014, 04:40:32 AM
Got up at 6:00 and took a ride to the beach for a sunrise. She is hesitating down low but pulls likes a raped ape up high.
Drove her for a good 30 minutes this morning when I got home I popped the hood and checked around. No gas leaks. Just have to figure out the hesitation. I may have a vacuum leak.
Congrats on running again - making changes may require a few more changes-- I would start with Richening the carb a few flats = 2 or 3 flats and see what that does for your Hesitation.
Since you were in the carb - make sure your dashpot oil is right and dampens properly thru the stroke.
Goodluck!
Funny you should post that, I am going to pull the plugs tomorrow and see if she is running lean or rich.
Which way do I turn to richen? I can look it up but I am lazy / busy and need to get some work done.
Another problem has reared its head, I lost all function in the gas and temp gauges.
Tips before I hit the shop manual?
Dan, there are no hex nuts, they are smooth on the outside.
This is the guilty fog light.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140617_203632_zpsu6ydfuhd.jpg)
To Richen / Lean carb... Easy to do- but hard to explain...
Suprisingly simple link here - http://www.howacarworks.com/fuel-systems/adjusting-an-su-carburettor (http://www.howacarworks.com/fuel-systems/adjusting-an-su-carburettor)
The jet you installed needs to move DOWN to richen the mixture just a bit.
Just above where the jet inserts into the carb - is a large nut - that has a solid spring that presses against it (keeps it from turning) when you say adjust a few Flats-- its Flats on that Nut that you' are counting.
With the carb on the car - you can reach your hand under the carb and feel the nut to turn-- you want to turn that nut 2 -3 Flats -- CLOCKWISE ( effectively , unscrewing - lowering thejet just a wee bit lower on the needle) that then allows that bit more fuel- (richening the mixture)
Just remember you can always go- the Opposite way and return to where you started.
Quote from: jedduh01 on June 18, 2014, 05:43:17 AM
Just remember you can always go- the Opposite way and return to where you started.
As long as you remember to count the number of flats you've gone.
"Lift to Lean" was the saying I was taught... 77.gif
I am going to pull a plug or a couple of plugs this evening and look at them, I suspect my problem is being rich.
I say that because she starts up real easy with no choke now.
Your lights are new to me 8.gif
Quote from: 94touring on June 18, 2014, 12:15:32 PM
Your lights are new to me 8.gif
I was told at the British car show I attended that they were very old and rare. I am not sure if the guy was talking out his ass though.
Also, any clue as to why no gas or temp gauge all at once suddenly?
Maybe you're out of gas. Ha. Umm...check fuses, grounds, ect..
Well, color me surprised. The plugs were very light grey, not what I was expecting at all.
The weather is dreadful this evening so I hope to mess with it tomorrow and give it a test drive.
I have to say, from the day it arrived here to now, it is a hugely different truck, it was probably running on 3 cylinders when it arrived, and needed a lot of mechanical love, driving it around last night, I was amazed how hard it pulls when you wind out the gears.
I also tossed a ball bearing in the fuel pressure regulator and that seems to have fixed the knock at startup, it is still there but lasts only a second and is gone, no matter how long the truck sits.
Oil pressure at idle cold is 60PSI and once warm drops to 40-50 at idle. This is indicated and I am still not sure that is a real # yet. I hope to have time to put the gauge I bought on there to see.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140719_140141_zpsdfizfd05.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20140719_140141_zpsdfizfd05.jpg.html)
The good news. I fixed the sticking throttle. The bad news? She shit the bed again. Not sure what is wrong yet. Sounds line the new rockers are not rocking. She lost power and started backfiring out of nowhere. Then died. Whenyou try to restart it loads up at 1 cylinder like it is locked up .
As luck would have it my cousin was on duty in the town I was driving in (a few miles fromnmy house) he stopped and we chatted for about 30 minutes while I wait for AAA once again.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140719_161007_zpswanlekek.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20140719_161007_zpswanlekek.jpg.html)
I am wondering if I should buy one of these trucks for when I decide to drive the mini from now on.
Hmmm. Pull the plugs and see if you have coolant or anything going on. Otherwise you have a new dizzy, your carb is rebuilt (holding up and not leaking?) and your rockers are new (check clearances again). Was the coil new, can't remember?
Nope, how about the brand new fucking rockers?
Man, when that bolt broke I knew I should have left the old ones in.
A scathing email is being sent.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140719_222656_zpsv5nbjl8l.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20140719_222656_zpsv5nbjl8l.jpg.html)
Crapola....I hope my set holds up. 11.gif
When I showed the broken bolt to my aviation mechanic buddy he told me not to install the rockers.
I wished I listened to him, I am filing this under, you get what you pay for, those rockers were 1/2 the price of everyone else. I now know why. I am hesitant to even take another set from them if they offer, I think I want my money back and I will go with a more expensive set.
It really sucks when the new parts are falling off the car. I am really at a loss here, in all my years of working on cars, I have never seen something as pathetic as this.
OK OK There are some rotary tuners like Brian Cain that fit this bill but these are parts not service.
Brian Cain rings a bell but refresh my memory. I'm so far out of the rotary scene.
Do you have a closeup pic of the fracture surface? Are they cut from single billets/barstock?
I will get a better pic for you when I take it off. I do not want to even look at it right now.
I spent the day on the boat. Now I am drinking.
Maybe mid week.
IIRC the metal looks like pit metal fullnof air and really cheap looking inside. I am not impressed at all by the quality. Putting the stock back in for now hoping to get my money back then buying more reputable rockers.
I zoomed in on the photo and what jumped out at me is how clean of break it is. It's almost like it propagated from a scribe mark or scratch across the top of the rocker.
Fracture surface should show the origin of the fracture but harder to see if the part is cast as porosity may indicate. My guess is that the thread area near the lifters have the greatest stress and may have originated with a flaw in the threads. My sensibilities are that the rockers should be forged and shot/glass bead peened after machining.
Too often the dimensions of a part can be duplicated and work functionally but will so often have substandard metallurgy and finish flaws. Aviation is littered with "bogus" parts like this often with catastrophic consequences. Fortunately it doesn't look like there was additional damage?
If I had a set of these I probably would pull them and crack check. Those with access to aircraft shops may have a zyglo or spray on crack check. Also look at how the threads are made. A sharply cut thread is inherently less durable than a manufactured or "rolled" thread.
I can fully relate to your reaction to just walk away for a while.
Thanks for the insight.
I will probably pull the old rockers mid week, it seems I have to answer 100 questions from Minisport before they will deduce that the problem is in their part and not my car.
As I mentioned, Minisport is being difficult.
My friend, who I mentioned earlier has offered a alternative solution. I am sending him the rockers.
QuoteAnd regardless of what they say, that looks like bad metallurgy in those pics.
IN FACT - I have some parts that are going for NDI testing next week. If you ship the rockers to me, I will be happy to send them in for testing. Hell, why don't you tell them that you are going to send them in to an independent, Federally licensed testing lab. See how they react.
I should mention, I am not a cheapskate, my RX7 was a rolling example of what you can do with a car when you are willing to spend some money on it and do it right.
This rocker fiasco is a lesson to me, keep doing what you did with the RX7 and you will be fine, when someone has parts for 50% of their competitors, it is a good bet those parts are shit and stay away from them.
I am willing to eat the cost of these rockers and have them tested to prove what I already know, the materials used are substandard.
Minisport wants me to tell them the following:
what size is the engine ?
what camshaft is fitted ?
has the cylinder head been modified or machined ?
if the head is modified or machined, what valve springs are fitted ?
do you know what clearance you have between the coils of the valve springs at full lift ?
has the cylinder block been machined ?
I can only answer one of those questions, and that is what is the clearance between the springs at full lift. Which they warn you to check upon installing and I did and it passed.
Wouldn't almost all those questions be irrelevant once you set the proper gap? Seems like just the valve springs would be a possibility; and is the rocker really that delicate that it would break if you had some sort of crazy competition springs? I would have bought those...taking them off my list right now!
Going to be wicked cool to hear what your friend says.
I emailed Minisport yesterday.
QuoteWhen installing these rockers I checked the clearance between the coils as I was warned to do on an piece of paper in the box the rockers came in. They passed the clearance test and I thought I was good to go.
When the one adjusting nut broke I was very weary of this rocker assy. As soon as my car broke down, I knew what it was without even taking the engine apart.
My aviation friend has offered to send my rockers off to an Independent Federally Licensed testing lab where he is coincidentally sending some of his aviation parts for testing.
We both feel, just by looking at the parts that have failed, there is a metallurgy issue at play. I really do not want anything from you anymore. I am more upset with my wasted time than the money spent. My time is little and very valuable to me. The 1.5 hours I had to wait for a flatbed to get my car was more bothersome than the cost of this part.
Thanks anyway. When I get my report back on this I will be sure to share it with you.
Getting ready to email the guy who's car I'm building and minisport. We also bought the same rockers. Guess what broke on me today...
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=2063)
Quote from: Jims5543 on July 25, 2014, 03:53:47 AM
I emailed Minisport yesterday.
Quote
Thanks anyway. When I get my report back on this I will be sure to share it with you.
[and the Internet]
Man, it was one thing when Jim broke his...look at the size of the guy. But you, 94? Skinny little pilot dude, barely able to tie his own shoes? Yikes, no question over-torquing wasn't a problem there...gotta be a real issue... :-[
(time for me to re-up my restorationmini site sponsorship monies - feel like I can throw a couple fun jabs and get away with it 77.gif )
Ha nice! And wasn't like over torque was an issue even because the tip broke off where you screw it with a tiny flat head. I'd expect the screw driver to break first.
Did you get the tip before it went anyplace it could really screw stuff up?
It went flying across the room. Heard it bounce on the concrete.
When I informed them the broken parts were heading to a lab there was a change of tune. They offered to send a new set of adjustment screws were offered as well as a new rocker. I am taking his offer and selling these rockers.
If anyone still doubts the validity of my claim make me an offer on these rockers and i will sell them to you.
I could not find the paper with the spec for the clearance on the spring. I checked it before pulling and it was over 0.025 inches fully compressed. It was not bottoming out that was for sure.
I have my old rockers in for now until I decide what to do next. I am most likely going to get an expensive set of roller rockers with normal lift.
I am getting tired of clearancing my valves. This is time number 4.
Parts ready to be shipped tomorrow.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140726_173343_zpsze571sjj.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20140726_173343_zpsze571sjj.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140726_173310_zpse4y0gxuv.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20140726_173310_zpse4y0gxuv.jpg.html)
The spec sheet that came with mine said .040. That seems big. Sound right to you?
Quote from: Jims5543 on July 27, 2014, 09:19:08 AM
Parts ready to be shipped tomorrow.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140726_173343_zpsze571sjj.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20140726_173343_zpsze571sjj.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140726_173310_zpse4y0gxuv.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20140726_173310_zpse4y0gxuv.jpg.html)
WOW, looks like you have two problems. Broken adjusting screw looks too brittle. they should bend or twist before breaking. Looks like the rocker broke starting from the threads.
From minisport site it sounds like the rocker geometry is changed from Original to simulate a high lift cam necessitating shortening some dimensions. Modified geometry would result in increased stresses in the rocker in some areas. I would be wary of any rockers that tried to duplicate high lift cam. But that's just my opinion.
Quote from: 94touring on July 27, 2014, 09:36:59 AM
The spec sheet that came with mine said .040. That seems big. Sound right to you?
I could shove through a much bigger feeler guage. As the spring would give.
A 0.025 which is the widest single feeler on my set, could be pushed through easily.
So my point was I had some space still and was not bottoming out.
Quote from: tsumini on July 27, 2014, 11:31:24 AM
WOW, looks like you have two problems. Broken adjusting screw looks too brittle. they should bend or twist before breaking. Looks like the rocker broke starting from the threads.
From minisport site it sounds like the rocker geometry is changed from Original to simulate a high lift cam necessitating shortening some dimensions. Modified geometry would result in increased stresses in the rocker in some areas. I would be wary of any rockers that tried to duplicate high lift cam. But that's just my opinion.
If the material of the rockers is what is claimed (although my friend questioned that choice as well as there are much better choices) then this sgould not be a problem.
When I installed these I checked the gap on the springs at full compression and they passed. I could not remember the gap but I remember usung a couple of feelers and they passed through.
Also it did not break at the threads it broke about 1/8" from the threads which makes this failure even more suspicious. If I were Dan I would be yanking those rockers out.
I hope to have test results in the next 2 weeks.
I doubled up two feeler gauges to get the .04. I've been discussing what to do with the owner and waiting to hear back from minisport.
Since this seems to the the official Minisport rockers fail thread, I will let Dan update on what he found out today, same info was withheld from me in my dealings.
My failed parts on on their way to my buddies shop where they will be included in a shipment to a testing lab we will then know if the failure was a fault with my truck or a fault with the quality of the parts.
Ah yes here is what we found today:
Dan,
I'm actually at Mini Sport now for the International Mini Meet... I spoke to them to see what is happening and it turns out there was a small batch of adjusters that weren't heat treated properly by the supplier. These ended up in the huge box with the rest of the good ones, and the bad ones were sent out not knowing it. These are just starting to show up. There are no falures onto the push rods so they are safe to use, the problem is just above as you have seen. I will bring back a full set of the adjusters to replace the ones you have and send them on to you when I get back.
We sell hundreds of these with no problems at all and we stand behind everything we make/sell. Please forward onto Jim this information as I can't find him in our system.
Sorry for the problems!
Regards,
Mike
That is the American Minisport. I purchased directly from the UK shop, the UK shop never told me they were having problems with the adjusters. They just offered new ones to me.
As far as my rocker goes, they offered to replace the single broken one. Which I took them up on. If anyone wants them $250 payed via paypal will include shipping to you.
I will not ship until my replacement rocker arrives.
Since they are not offering to take the set back I am going to sell them off, they will not go on my car. I paid $300 + shipping for these.
Little confused here. Photo shows broken adjusting screw and a broken rocker with an intact adjusting screw. was the rocker from the broken adjusting screw also broken?
As for the valve clearance if .025 is nominal for a standard build engine then it seems that .040 negates the intent of duplicating a high lift cam by modifying the geometry of the rocker. Unless the .025 nominal together with the modified rocker makes the valve touch or interefere with the piston.
Minisport verifies a material problem with the adjusting screw (missed heat treat step predictable and makes sense) but hasn't said anything about the rocker?
I haven't studied rocker/cam lift but have a good idea of concepts. Just wondering why change rocker config to simulate high lift cam (presuming this is thge objective) when installing a high lft cam would accomplish the same objective?
Not critisizing choice but curious.
My oem rockers were questionable I felt I was getting a knock out of them (I can say the engine was much quieter with the Minisport rockers installed) so I set out to install a new set of rockers. Dan told me about these trick rockers and I thought, why not, if it gives me a little more top end it would be a nice improvement.
Yes, a hotter cam would be the better choice, but, since I was only out to change the rockers, I thought this would be be a cool addition.
In hindsight, I wish I just went with the stock 1.3 rockers so I would have the ability to go to a hotter cam in the future.
So that is now my objective, I put the old ones back in, sort of, I need to gap them still and I am thinking of just ordering a new set and installing them.
With my failure, the adjust screw that broke was on a totally different rocker, the rocker that failed never had an adjusting screw issue.
Thanks for your time and the explanation. Makes sense. BTW what material is the rocker aluminum? steel?
Via an email from Minisport:
QuoteThanks for the info, We are very sorry that you have experienced a problem with one of our products and lost faith in that product. We take great pride in the products and services we provide and a situation like this one, is something that we take very seriously. Please be assured that the problem you have had is one that we have not seen much of and the times when we have seen it, it has been a installation issue rather than a product failure, these rockers are produced from a alloy billet HE15 / 2014A so they should not break unless something else is creating
excessive stress, that is not to say that it couldn't happen but as yet we have never come across it, I am not sure about the adjusting screw, but I would welcome the opportunity to inspect it as this failure is of greater concern.
If your friend gets a test report on the rocker i would be very interested to see it.
I hop this unfortunate problem will not prevent you from using our services again, in the future.
I look forward to hearing from you again very soon.
From my aerospace friend after reading the above:
QuoteSee, herein lies a problem. They talk about it being made from alloy billet. Many companies try to use that word to imply that the item is better than a cast part. The truth is, it may be, and it may NOT be. See, billet is just an industry term for a "chunk" of metal. It can be an extrusion, a forging, or a casting. "Produced from an alloy billet" just means that they took a chunk of metal and machined it down. This would be better than a "cast to final form" item, but if they use crappy billets, then the added quality of being made from billet is still questionable. A turd is a turd, no matter how much you polish it.
From the photo you sent, it looks to me like a marginal quality cast billet was used. You should not see that kind of grain formation unless the temperature of the casting was not properly controlled.
I am also surprised at their choice to use 2014 alloy instead of 6061-T6. The 6061 has better resistance to fatigue and cracking.
Of course they are out to sell parts at the best profit margin possible. Use the cheapest raw materials. "So what" that one broke... they can send you a new rocker to replace it and they will probably only have a dollar or two out of pocket. Chinese machine shops can turn out pallets of these things per day.
Your friend is pretty much spot on. Found Wikipedia entry interesting "It is easily machined in certain tempers, and among the strongest available aluminium alloys, as well as having high hardness. However, it is difficult to weld, as it is subject to cracking."
Well, my bet is riding on them refunding me after the part is tested and it is apparent the material is substandard.
I am wrestling with selling them, I do not trust them why should I pass that onto someone else?
I am doen with 1.5's I am sticking with 1.3's if anyone wants to post up a link to a 1.3 they like I have not had time to shop for one. I am sitting here @ 40 hours already worked this week and it is HUMP DAAAAAY!
Would you like to buy a used stock set from me?
Are they in good working order, I noticed my stockers have a decent amount of side play, as in, the rockers will rock sideways on the shaft a noticeable amount. Not sure if that is normal, seems wrong to me.
They would have come off my truck, which ran perfectly fine. They've been sitting on the shelf for years now. I'm going with 1.5's on my rebuild next decade or two. Or I have the rockers that just came off the autobox I'm rebuilding or a 998 out back. I have rockers galore here.
Old rockers gapped. A quick question. Is there a trick to adjusting the hood alignment? Mine keeps popping up when I hit a bump in the road.
Going to take her for a spin after we finish running errands this morning.
The penis shaped rod that goes into the latch on the slam panel can be adjusted after you pull back the spring and loosen the nut. May be a nut on the back side too. One penis, two nuts, and spring like foreskin.
HAHAHAHAHA^^ Best explanation ever.
I might be doing it wrong. There is lithium grease sprayed everywhere now.
Quote from: Jims5543 on August 02, 2014, 09:34:34 AM
I might be doing it wrong. There is lithium grease sprayed everywhere now.
So you think. You just took too long adjusting it!!!
Quote from: Jims5543 on August 02, 2014, 09:34:34 AM
I might be doing it wrong. There is lithium grease sprayed everywhere now.
I think you're supposed to wrap it
before it sprays...
Lol :D
Just ran to Home Depot and back with the Mini. It runs better down low with the old rockers back on granted, it is very noisy again. That wrapping sound is back which pretty much confirms my suspicion that these rockers are shot.
The lab did an ultrasound as well as an analysis on the bad rocker. The alloy was substandard / or was not heat treated correctly.
Once I get it back I am sending to Minisport and letting them decided what they want to do. These rockers are not going back on my car.
Anyone know who sells a nice set of roller rockers 1:3 ratio. No more tricks for me.
I'd still buy the 1.5s personally but here are 1.3s.
http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Cylinder_heads/Rocker_Assemblies/C-AHT437.aspx?100407&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/roller%20rockers.aspx (http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Cylinder_heads/Rocker_Assemblies/C-AHT437.aspx?100407&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/roller%20rockers.aspx)|Back%20to%20search
I was looking around and found these, what I found more interesting was the wright up below on installing and gaping. I think I might try the 1.5's once again but modify my gaping slightly per the instructions on Mini Mania.
http://www.minimania.com/part/C-AHT446/Cylinder-Head-Roller-Tipped-Rocker-Assembly-15-Ratio (http://www.minimania.com/part/C-AHT446/Cylinder-Head-Roller-Tipped-Rocker-Assembly-15-Ratio)
So below it what they instruct on the Mini Mania site. Bold is what concerns me as I did not gap mine from the side so I was getting a false reading. I also found it interesting that I should increase the gap slightly to 0.015 from 0.012. All info that would have been helpful from Mini Sport.
QuoteThe A-series engine cam followers were originally designed to use 0.010-in clearance between the cam follower and standard cams to allow for heat expansion of the parts and ensure the valves would close properly. On sportier and race profile cams this went up to 0.012-in to cater for the higher running temperatures and far higher rpm capability/use. Because we set the clearance at the valve, we need to allow for the rocker ratio. To do this a little simple math is involved; taking the standard 0.010" cam to follower clearance we need to multiply this by the standard rocker ratio originally quoted as 1.25-1, although in actual installation this is more like 1.22-1. So, 0.010-in x rocker ratio 1.25 gives 0.0125" at the valve.
As a concession to the slightly reduced installed ratio of 1.22-1, the standard valve clearance setting is quoted as 0.012-in. For the sportier/race cams this is then 0.012-in x 1.25 - so 0.015-in at the valve – the valve clearance quoted in Special Tuning manuals for the various cams of the time (731, 649, Sprint and Super Sprint).
Where higher ratio rockers are to be used, the required valve clearance can then be assessed using this simple formula. For instance when using 1.5 rockers, you obviously need to multiply the cam/follower clearance by 1.5. So 0.010-in x 1.5 gives 0.015-in for standard/mild cams and 0.012-in x 1.5 gives 0.018-in for race/more-modified cams. Interestingly, most re-profiled performance cams generally have a suggested valve clearance of 0.016-in with standard ratio rockers. To assess required valve clearance where higher ratio rockers are used simply work it backwards and multiply by the higher ratio. This works out as 0.016-in divided by 1.25 = 0.0128, then x 1.5 = 0.0192" - or 0.019" at the valve.
However, these are only basic starting points; but at least somewhere to start. Another interesting illustration of what trying different valve clearances will achieve is that demonstrated by the MG Metro engine. With valve clearances set, as you would normally expect for a standard engine at 0.012-in, the engine idles very roughly. Shortly after release, Rover published a technical up-date stating the valve clearances should be set at 0.014-in on the inlets and 0.017-in on the exhausts. Instantly the engine idles much smoother and pulls better from lower down. There was even a slight BHP gain!
A similar method can be applied to most cams that have different inlet and exhaust (dual pattern) profiles, i.e. having a slightly bigger clearance on the exhaust valves, or conversely slightly tighter on the inlet valves. However, as a basic initial set-up recommendation, depending on your cam spec, we suggest that where 1.5 ratio rockers are used set valve clearances on both inlet and exhaust to 0.015-in for standard or mild road cams (say up to MD266 spec) or 0.018-in for sportier/race cams.
One other point to note is where rockers with roller tips are used, DO NOT push the feeler blades through from the front as standard. The roller tip acts like a panel roller and will draw the blade through irrespective of gap size – even if there isn't one. The feeler blade must be wiped sideways from one side to the other.
Setting the valve clearances consistently and accurately can be very frustrating, mainly caused by the tools used. It is imperative you use a screwdriver blade that fits snugly in the adjuster screw slot. A looser fit results in difficulty holding the adjuster screw in place when nipping the locknut up. Bearing in mind we are try to set clearances to one thousandth of an inch, it is well worth investing in a tool to specifically do this job. The problem is that most screwdrivers have a tapered blade resulting in a poor fit. Consider using a socket-mounted screwdriver tip can make this task much easier. You can either use a 3/8-in drive extension and 'T'-bar or a 3/8-in drive screwdriver handle with it.
Here is what irritates me. I am going to go ahead and get those Mini Mania rockers for $500. Chalk this up to a case of, you get what you paid for.
I am irritated because Mini Sport started positioning themselves right from the start to blame me, they would never tell me that the adjusting screws were defective. Dan found that out from the US guy, the UK guy is tight lipped about it.
The casting is defective on the broken rocker we have confirmed this with a testing lab, so basically, it is Mini Sports fault, somehow I am supposed to get over this and install these rockers back in with 1 new rocker they are sending me. No way in hell that is happening. I am out of tows with AAA now and have to start paying. No way I am putting something back in my car I cannot trust.
So I would think they would be willing to refund me on these, it is a mess and to be honest, if they do not refund me, I will make $275 worth of posts regarding the quality of the product across many mini boards as a warning to others. They really need to think through the ramifications of screwing me over on this. I am contacting them again and offering to send the bad rocker to them for them to have tested to see for themselves. It would be prudent for them to offer to refund me when they find out they had a bad casting.
I cannot even sell these off in clear conscious, if I do it will be at a dig discount and with disclosure over my experience with them. Yet Mini Sport is perfectly fine selling these.
As big of a risk taker as I am and half tempted to buy your rockers, I'm like nah I'll pass this time.
Well I definitely wouldn't run them myself. Makes me second quess the quality of a lot of their in-house made products. Hmm
New rockers ordered this morning will be here on Friday with ground shipping from Cali to Florida.
Gonna put them in this weekend then mess with the carb tuning a little.
I think I have the AC repaired my self (jb weld) and hope to have that back installed this weekend as well.
Quote from: 94touring on August 02, 2014, 05:32:59 PM
I'd still buy the 1.5s personally but here are 1.3s.
http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Cylinder_heads/Rocker_Assemblies/C-AHT437.aspx?100407&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/roller%20rockers.aspx (http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Cylinder_heads/Rocker_Assemblies/C-AHT437.aspx?100407&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/roller%20rockers.aspx)|Back%20to%20search
Hard to see what the configuration is like but it appears that the adjusting screws threads are on a separate nut and not threaded through the rocker. For my money cut threads through the rocker is poison.
My stock rockers have the adjusting bolt threaded through them. I have never seen a rocker where it is not threaded through the actual rocker on any car, including older Porsches and BMW's I have owned through the years.
I am not aware of any rocker where this is not the case, I am kind of confused by that statement.
Quote from: tsumini on August 05, 2014, 09:57:31 AM
Quote from: 94touring on August 02, 2014, 05:32:59 PM
I'd still buy the 1.5s personally but here are 1.3s.
http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Cylinder_heads/Rocker_Assemblies/C-AHT437.aspx?100407&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/roller%20rockers.aspx (http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Cylinder_heads/Rocker_Assemblies/C-AHT437.aspx?100407&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/roller%20rockers.aspx)|Back%20to%20search
Hard to see what the configuration is like but it appears that the adjusting screws threads are on a separate nut and not threaded through the rocker. For my money cut threads through the rocker is poison.
I see what your saying the way the photo looks. It's just jam nuts though.
Quote from: sparetimetoys on August 05, 2014, 05:57:58 PM
Quote from: tsumini on August 05, 2014, 09:57:31 AM
Quote from: 94touring on August 02, 2014, 05:32:59 PM
I'd still buy the 1.5s personally but here are 1.3s.
http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Cylinder_heads/Rocker_Assemblies/C-AHT437.aspx?100407&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/roller%20rockers.aspx (http://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Cylinder_heads/Rocker_Assemblies/C-AHT437.aspx?100407&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/roller%20rockers.aspx)|Back%20to%20search
Hard to see what the configuration is like but it appears that the adjusting screws threads are on a separate nut and not threaded through the rocker. For my money cut threads through the rocker is poison.
I see what your saying the way the photo looks. It's just jam nuts though.
Sorry for the confusion. I shouldn't speculate about ad photos. Your fractured rocker looked like it initiated in the in the threaded area. I would just avoid any billet that has threads near a highly stressed area. But again maybe what I see in photos is not the case nad since I have not examined them I may be all wet.
I sent Minisport an email yesterday explaining my disappointment in their product and how they are handling the failure.
I cannot sell these rockers with a clear conscious since I feel they are not dependable. I will list them for sale @ 50% off with full disclosure... I guess...
I told them the test result of the cracked indicated a poor casting or insufficient heat treating. I also told them I was disappointed that they were not honest with me over the adjusting screws.
I have to wonder if they know they have bad rockers out there too.
Bottom line, if they are not going to take these rockers back in return I made my last purchase from them for this truck. I will pay more with other suppliers since obviously Minisport is making some really cheap crap that I do not want on my car anyway.
New rockers should be here on Saturday, I would love to get them in over the weekend. God, I am getting sick of pulling plugs, the alternator and gaping the valves.
I feel like I am in bizarro world. When I report to them that there is something wrong with the strength of the material used in the broken rocker, they reply they knew I would find there was nothing wrong with the material. It is like it never registered with them.
They keep stating they machine solid billet, I cannot seem to get through to them that the word billet defines a wide array of manufacturing styles including casting.
So, I have in my possession a set of shit rockers that I will not put in my car and I am having a hard time selling because I do not want someone else to go through this.
Buyer beware!!
This was my email to them after we discovered the billet was weak and not of proper construction or hardness.
QuoteHello,
My friend reported back to be the following:
QuoteNo charge.
The inspector said that it is either a poor casting, or poor heat treatment, but that their tests could not determine which. Ultrasonic testing did not show any other flaws in the rocker.
That's all they could do.
I'll ship it back to you this coming week.
Once I receive the rocker back I will send it off to you to analyze. As of right now, I am not installing these rockers back in my truck and having a hard time selling these off with a clear conscious. I would like for you to analyze this rocker and let me know what you determine to be the problem. I know it is your position that 100% of the time it is the consumers fault, so I have to wonder why only 1 rocker broke like only 1 adjusting screw broke. If this was a clearance issue I would imagine more would have broken. I have learned from your US supplier that there were some bad screws mixed in with your good screws that were not heat treated correctly, you neglected to inform me of this, but you were quick to offer a full set of new screws. A friend of mine here in the states had an adjusting screw fail as well. He was informed of the bad batch. I have to wonder if this has happened to your rockers as well.
Please provide me with a shipping address and I will send you the failed rocker to inspect yourself.
Their reply
QuoteThanks for your email it is nice to hear from you again, thanks for sharing the report with us, to be honest, I was confident that they would not find a fault with the alloy rocker – they are not cast, they are machined from a solid billet.
If you remember back to one of my emails I did remark that I was more concerned about the rocker adjusting screw than the alloy rocker as I had not heard any other complaints,at that point, however since you first reported it our USA agent has been here for the IMM and told us of at least one more problem with the screws. I expect there may be more as time progresses.
I understand your hesitation in refitting the rocker assembly or even selling them on, but we are confident that if you follow the fitting instructions you should have no more problems with the rockers. The new screws I sent you have been manufactured in house rather than bought in, so we can control the quality. I sent the screws and the replacement rocker as a gesture of good will to you as a valued customer, not for any other reason.
I hope this puts your mind at rest, and that you will continue to use them and reap the benefits of the extra valve lift and the performance that goes hand in hand with that.
Kind regards
My final reply, the for sale add on all the Mini boards will be interesting:
I already purchased a $500 set of rockers from Mini Mania and chalked this up to a "you get what you paid for" experience.
I guess I will sell them off with a disclaimer so a buyer knows they may have a problem with rockers breaking.
I thought you might want to analyze the failed part, as I said, and it seems to have been ignored, the material is weak and not up to the task at hand. You throw around the term Solid Billet, this is how my friend, who deals with these things every day in the aerospace industry, explained it to me:
QuoteSee, herein lies a problem. They talk about it being made from alloy billet. Many companies try to use that word to imply that the item is better than a cast part. The truth is, it may be, and it may NOT be. See, billet is just an industry term for a "chunk" of metal. It can be an extrusion, a forging, or a casting. "Produced from an alloy billet" just means that they took a chunk of metal and machined it down. This would be better than a "cast to final form" item, but if they use crappy billets, then the added quality of being made from billet is still questionable. A turd is a turd, no matter how much you polish it.
From the photo you sent, it looks to me like a marginal quality cast billet was used. You should not see that kind of grain formation unless the temperature of the casting was not properly controlled.
I am also surprised at their choice to use 2014 alloy instead of 6061-T6. The 6061 has better resistance to fatigue and cracking.
Thank you for the replacement rocker and adjusting screws as soon as I receive them I can at least recoup some of my cost by reselling them.
Jim
Windshield wipers shit the bed yesterday driving home from the office. (2 miles)
Outside of fuses, anything typical I should be looking for wrong?
Fuses, wires, then open it up and grease it up as a last resort.
Can I use the white lithium from the hood latch. ;D
Ha ;D Basically the grease in the gearing eventually hardens up which binds things up. They can be intimidating at first to tear into, and getting the assembly out can make you aggravated, but probably not a bad idea to do if you have the time.
Ok it's been a week, have you broken down again yet? ;D
I have not had any time, I am honestly afraid to drive it as my AAA tow is now going to cost me. I have been considering a car dolly to keep so Mrs.5543 can come get me every time I decide to drive it.
I wish I was joking.
I saw a custom dolly for sale when I purchased mine and wished I bought it now.
I am slammed here are work and with 105°+ heat index every day, the last thing I feel like doing is going out in the hot garage and working some more. I am going to pull an AC unit out of storage and install it this weekend to I can work in there in the evenings.
I started to head towards it a couple of days ago and did not bother.
BTW _ need to update my rocker story and warn any of you looking to buy Mini Mania's $500 rockers. They are incomplete and need another $50-$100 in parts that are neither included in the sale nor are suggested as being purchased (unless you read the find print in the product description and know what you are reading) after you add it to your cart on their store online.
So I am still rocking my shot, stock, loud ass rockers.
The parts I need have been on back order for 2 weeks now.
You may consider building one of my tow bars. I haven't made any in ages for people, due to concerns about being sued if something went bad. But for yourself, just a haul across town wouldn't require the cross brace necessarily, just need to take a harbor freight bar and modify a few things, or I could make a cross brace bar for you and send out the hardware and let you have at it.
The additional parts finally shipped from Mini Mania, it only took 2.5 weeks for them to get them out of backorder.
I should see them by weeks end. I hope to have the new rockers in this weekend.
Extra parts finally arrived, I just need some cotter pins which can be purchased at the corner hardware store.
Here is a pic of the rockers and extra parts, I needed to buy spacers and shims to align the rockers and end washers to lock it in place.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140827_181847_zpszbfficag.jpg)
4.gif
WTF...comes as a pile of parts??? I thought they'd just come ready to bolt on...
Congrats on the progress---
But i must ask - after all this headache- why not build up a "standard" set of rockers... Half the cost and twice as fast back on the road...
Well - actually - I was just in South Florida this past Labor weekend.. yea - i wouldnt be driving any NON AC Car for these months till late sept at this point!! so
MODIFY ON!!! and enjoy....
The replacement rocker arrived today, the irony on the envelope was almost overwhelming.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140903_184239_zpsrmzhnj4q.jpg)
Broke down again, at least this time is was 10 feet from the garage as I was backing out. The float was full of gas, stuck in the down position and the bowl was puking gas all over the place.
At least this time I did not get far.
I just said fuck it and ordered an entire new HS4 Carb from Mini Mania, I am leaving for Key West in 4 days for a long weekend with Mrs.5543 so I will deal with this when I get back.
Not sure if the carb will come set initially any tips on where to set the jet?
Oh, and the rockers are still not in, I just have not had time to tear her down and install. Plus I am really tired of gapping the valves.
Carb is finally here, everything takes so long to get....
I have a somewhat free weekend. So I hope to play car and get this sucker sorted.
Good deal.
New carb is installed. She fired right up and purred. Set idle this evening test driving in morning.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140926_194935_zpssalhcc2a.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20140926_194935_zpssalhcc2a.jpg.html)
Not sure when new rockers will get installed. Not in the mood right meow.
4.gif
Carb is gorgeous...
Quote from: Mudhen on September 27, 2014, 03:55:43 AM
4.gif
Carb is gorgeous...
Lol! I said the same thing when I unpacked it. There was a note on the box to add oil to the dashpot. It saod to add 3 oz. I measured off the correct amount and after 1 oz. It overflowed!!! I might have to pull it and drain it now.
I use atf fluid. Just did these dual carbs. No real science, just fill it up. Too much doesn't hurt, it just shoots out the top and self levels.
Pulled a spark plug this evening after driving her some and it was very light grey, I gave the jet 3-4 flats out to see if that is rich enough.
I did notice a lack of power driving. I took her to the office this afternoon and then to the Gastropub for a draft, she created quite the stir with the staff and clients. An impromptu car show ensued in the parking lot.
I hope to have time to drive her again tomorrow and see if my adjustment helped.
Nice.
Still trying to tune the carb. What is my plug telling me?
I made it a little richer this evening after looking at this plug. Mostly because she feels down on power and lacks throttle response. I hope to be able to take her for a spin tomorrow and see if my adjustment has helped. I gave her 1 full torn out.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20141013_172213_zps3y4ljg8z.jpg)
Are you hitting a flat spot in the power band? If anything your plug indicates lean.
2 days of horrible weather = no fun cars. Old Blue gets to beat through the suck.
I have a busy day tomorrow, then preparation for an AX on Saturday @ Sebring plus an Stealership oil change on Thursday afternoon. As well as 2 days of extremely shitty weather. So test drives have been postponed until Friday.
OK, I now have the carb jet / needle adjusted as far out as it will go. So I am dealing with two scenarios here:
1. I am adjusting out and should be adjusting in.
2. There are different jets and I need to put in a bigger one
I am still running lean there is no more adjustment to make I am pegged.
Frustrating. Thank go I still have the old carb so I can swap the jet off of that. Which is my plan on Sunday.
Hmm. Are they the same carbs? Does it run better with the choke pulled? The choke should pull it further out, and in turn give you more fuel. However if you have it turned all the way out, it may not matter. Or maybe it's the needle.
Oh...do you have a vacuum line going to the dizzy on that thing and is it hooked up?
Same exact carb.
Vacuum line hooked up.
Yes, if I pull the choke it runs better.
It will need a richer needle. You will have to carefully lift off the dashpot and piston to get at the needle and check what the letter code is on the current needle. You will likely want a richer, yet similar profile as to what is currently there.
To determine the current profile use the 0.090" section of the SU needle website linked below. That site will also let you compare that profile with up to 5 others at the same time. Look on your favorite supplier site (Seven Enterprises, Mini Spares, Mini Mania, etc.) for what selection of HS-4 (0.090" jet) needles they have in stock and plug in to the needle comparison site to compare the profiles and select the one(s) you want to order and try.
SU Needle site:
http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle (http://www.mintylamb.co.uk/suneedle)
Crazy thought here, why not swap the needle off the old carb onto the new one? The old carb was fine except for deteriorating bits and pieces, the needle should be fine.
That's what I'd do.
That would be a good start. I would make a note of the markings on both needles, just be careful to remember which came from which carb so swap them as intended. Then enter both needles into the comparison site and print the result for reference.
New Carb has jet from old carb now. It was a rather simple swap.
It took about 6 test fits and re-shimming to get these rockers happy. They are in and now I am about to gap them. Hopefully I can take her for a test spin tomorrow.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20141128_134352_zpsj1dul875.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20141128_134352_zpsj1dul875.jpg.html)
Awesome
I took it for a test spin and she was shaky. I am not 100% sure what is going on.
I pulled a spark plug ans it was still light grey so I turned it out a good turn and a half. I have not had a chance to drive it yet since then.
I am sure of one thing though, I am staying close to the house. I thought I was going to need a tow again, 2 miles from the house.
She was losing power, intermittently. So I have decided to change the fuel filter Friday and see if that does it.
Then maybe the fuel pump too. I need to bone up on where it is. Hoping to just drop in a generic replacement pump. I hear it coming from the fuel tank so I am guessing I need to drop the tank and open it up. Off to read up on that one.
Fuel pump is NOT in the tank. No need to drop it. The fuel pump should be mounted on (or near) one side of the rear subframe just a little in front of the tank. Typically, they are mounted on the left inner side of the rear subframe for the electric fuel pumps.
Mechanical fuel pumps are on the back left side of the engine.
I might have to put this truck up for sale. So this is a feeler out to the Restoration Mini crew.
I paid 12K for it, I have over $1000 in parts into it so far, new carb, new 1.5 rockers, 123 dizzy as well as a load of new parts yet to be put on and will be included with it.
I am asking what I paid, $12K.
Pics all through this thread and I will take more this weekend and make a formal ad on here and mini mania.
I do not have time at this point in my life for this project and it is frustrating letting it sit and not having time to do simple tasks.
I love this little truck and maybe a few years from now I will get another one but, for now I think it is best to sell it and let someone actually enjoy it rather than hording it.
Kind of bummed about doing this but it is stupid to have this poor truck just sitting.
Do I need to come down there and help you get this thing running?
Is the coil new?
Remember, this is not an RX8...or any modern car that gets fixed with a quick dose of OBD2 magic...
It's just a fun project - you get to use it for a day? AWESOME! you don't? You get to work on it - AWESOME!
I'd say keep it and try to enjoy just plugging along with it...(actually, I just enjoy your posts because it seems like you're just a few years ahead of me with the kids so I can use your experience :-))...plus I've had my old Mini for 26 years and since you've had the pickup you've probably gotten to use it twice as much as I have!
And your wife is hot.
There, I said it.
DO NOT SELL THAT TRUCK. (but I understand if you do... :( )
Pat
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/IMG_20141220_065448_zps2aouhzzp.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/IMG_20141220_065448_zps2aouhzzp.jpg.html)
I laid in bed from 5:30 on wide awake, pissed off and anxious. So I got dressed and headed to the garage and re-adjusted the valves. They were making too much noise and I found about 3 that were out of specs.
I am having a cup of coffee then heading back out to install a new fuel filter.
I am still running too lean but getting better I gave the nut another 1/2 turn out.
If I keep this truck I am going to send it out and have the engine rebuilt. I would love to do it myself but I hoestly do not have the time.
I have to go pick up the new tires mounted on my stock rims from the Mazda dealership this morning. It is about a 7 mile drive. Going to take the Mini and see if it can make it 14 miles.
I find myself walking past it and not wanting to drive it because I am not in the mood to break down agai .
In the few short 2-3 mile drives I have taken with it, it seems to be running fine now. I think the loss of power was a result of it running too lean.
I am very frustrated right now. I have never seen a car be such a basket case since owning an Audi.
The plugs this morning.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/Mobile%20Uploads/20141220_065202_zps99zqnnu2.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141220_065202_zps99zqnnu2.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/Mobile%20Uploads/20141220_065139_zpsjvlo5yq5.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141220_065139_zpsjvlo5yq5.jpg.html)
This is the kind of stuff that makes me nuts. When I get to the fuel filter I find the cheapest POS money can buy on the car. It now sports a very nice filter.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20141220_085109_zpspwxcujse.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20141220_085109_zpspwxcujse.jpg.html)
Quote from: Jims5543 on December 20, 2014, 06:12:35 AM
If I keep this truck I am going to send it out and have the engine rebuilt. I would love to do it myself but I hoestly do not have the time.
What about bringing it somewhere now just to deal with the current issues? I've taken mine to a local shop a couple times to bail me out when I've gotten stuck - nothing like having professionals who have seen it all to get things fixed up quickly.
Quote from: Jims5543 on December 20, 2014, 06:12:35 AM
I am very frustrated right now. I have never seen a car be such a basket case since owning an Audi.
:D
Looks like it's a hair lean still. One is getting some oil on it. Did you get my email about coming out to lend a hand?
Yes I got your email and it is not necessary.
Time is my problem. I spent some time on it this morning. Either I am too picky or I just do not know how to adjust Mini rockers. E30 BMW rockers no problem. It just seems way too noisy to me. Video in a minute.
They will be kinda loud. Fwiw dual carbs are truckier to setup. Keep giving yourself a turn at a time on the fuel till it starts to pull hard. I wouldn't be concerned if you get a little oil seepage if that one is in fact oily. If you go too rich you'll foul them out and break down too. Ask me how I know.
Rat a tat tat...
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/th_20141220_104232_zps2knbsl09.mp4) (http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20141220_104232_zps2knbsl09.mp4)
Honestly, it doesn't sound crazy loud to me compared to some other minis I've heard. haha. But be sure it's not fouling the back of the valve cover.
Sounds normal to me dude. Get your fuel adjusted and enjoy it! 62.gif
I drove it to the pool store and back today, what sucks is I completely do not trust it anymore, while I feel like I have addressed all the issues, there seems to be something I overlooked.
She is a little laggy down low but perks up once you get the revs up. Pulls nice and hard, no back fires, no loss of power, she seems to be o.k.
I am going to continue to take her on short drives and keep messing with the carb and see if I can make her a little happier.
I may also reread the 123 dizzy info and see if maybe I should have a better timing curve selected, there IIRC there were 3 that I could use.
Thanks for the encouragement guy, I have to admit, I have been pretty bummed and having a hard time justifying keeping a car in the garage that I never drive. Plus with the E30 coming next month I am going to spending some time on that and will not have as much time for the mini.
Also, my son and I have an upstart company idea we are exploring and implementing, word on that as soon as it becomes reality.
Good deal. Yes take a look at the settings on the 123 and see if it can be adjusted. If it's laggy down low timing may be an issue. Or you could still be a hair lean. When you setup the 123 did you twist the thing till the green light came on and all of that mess?
I almost walked past the old girl this morning and decided to say Eff it..... I loaded her up with my surveying equipment and took her to work today. She ran like a top. I put quite a few miles on her today too.
So 2 problems are apparent actually 3....
1. The fuel gauge is flaky.
2. The temp gauge does not work.
3. I can find 5 more oil pressure by tapping on the gauge. A serious wtf moment.
Speaking of which see 20-25 psi cruising at 40 mph. At idle I see 10-15.
Accurate? Probably not. Gonna try to spend some time tomorrow morning on it.
Ah! Maybe all that rubber debris you had has clogged up the gauge/lines! The fuel sending units tend to be hit or miss. What happens is the metal wire band on the sensor rust and gives dead spots, or the float gets flooded and doesn't float. The water temp gauge may need to be grounded/power supply, or the sensor is bad, or the gauge itself.
I had some trouble with my oil pressure in the past. After asking lots of questions, I was told that 12-15 PSI is fine at idle. Mine jumps to 50 under power though (can't remember accurately right now - middle of the winter up here, so no chance to take the mini out to work... bummer.. ::))
Tim
And it is dead again. I started it up this morning and backed it out of the garage. I noticed it was running rough but figured it was due to being cold. Then it kept running worse and worse and died. Will not restart. Dead in driveway. Sounded like it was running on 3 cylinders. So after running fine all day Friday out of nowhere it is dead again.
Jebus. Was it cold outside? Did you have the choke pulled? What do your ground wire contact points look like? Both on the engine and battery. There surely is something very simply causing this thing to sporadically act up.
Before you do anything pull the plugs and see what they look like again, perhaps they fouled for some odd reason. Reinstall and try to fire it up. If nothing happens, clean the ground contacts and battery terminals. Try to fire it up again. If nothing happens, pull a plug and crank it and see if you have spark. If there's spark, spray some starter fluid in the carb and see if it fires then. Report back.
Edit: there is fuel in the tank right? Is your driveway sloped hard? Another thing crossed my mind too. My old pickup would die half full of fuel. The pick up line in the tank starts about half way up and had broken. Put gas in the tank and see if it fires up.
I am afraid to dig into it right now as I am elbow deep in honey do's around here. I have 5 interior doors that need to be mounted that have been sitting for 2 weeks now. What sucks is that I was counting on using it for work tomorrow. Unless there is a miracle tonight tomorrow is going to be a clusterfuck.
I had disconnected the fuel pump on this auto while I was screwing with things. Fired up and ran, then ran rough, then died. Fired up again with some choke and died shortly after. Then I was like oh right, it needs fuel. Duh. I'm willing to bet it's something very simple that's jacking you around.
I had to go to Harbor Frieght for a "Quality Tool" (router) and decided to see of you were right. I put my 1 gallon emergency gas I keep in the back and then pulled 2 plugs to get a look at them. Pig rich....
So I gave the jet 1/2 a turn in, pushed in the choke (no choke) flipped the ignition to on and waited for the fuel pump to prime and she fired right up.
I drove to gas station put in 5 gallons of Rec90 on top of the 1 gallon I already put in and drove it to Harbor Freight and back. She is not 100% happy I am going to turn the jet back out 1 to 2 flats now and see if I can find the sweet spot.
Oh and I had to lock up the brakes as some asshat almost hit me head on driving the wrong way on a 4 lane road trying to beat the cars coming down the road turning into a parking lot. Maximum pucker momen .
From my experience once I fouled the plugs bad enough, I had to buy new plugs or it just wouldn't run right. So on this tuning deal, from a cold start it should require some choke to get it to fire up quickly and run happily for a few minutes till it warms up, unless of course it's the dead of summer and then it may not need any choke or very little for a very short period of time. If it fires up with zero choke and runs happy, it will probably foul or run stupid rich after a few minutes of warm up. Sounds like you're in the ball park, just needs some fiddling.
Another thing you can do is fire it up, let it warm up for ten minutes or so. Now rev the engine from the carb by hand, keep leaning the mixture equal amounts on each carb till it starts to miss when you rev it up. Then turn it back rich and rev till it smooths out when you rev it. Take it for a drive and put it under load and see if it still runs smooth. Richen as necessary if it starts to miss.
Quote from: Mudhen on December 20, 2014, 07:14:10 AM
Quote from: Jims5543 on December 20, 2014, 06:12:35 AM
If I keep this truck I am going to send it out and have the engine rebuilt. I would love to do it myself but I hoestly do not have the time.
What about bringing it somewhere now just to deal with the current issues? I've taken mine to a local shop a couple times to bail me out when I've gotten stuck - nothing like having professionals who have seen it all to get things fixed up quickly.
82.gif
Reading back through sounds like adding fuel fixed this last issue, along with putting the carb. setting back to where it was running good before. Looks like narrowed down to fuel pickup or lack of fuel? Sounds like you are very close to getting it dialed in.
In my experience dual or more carbs. on anything require regular adjustment to keep in the sweet spot, I have owned plenty of stuff with multiple carbs. They also tend to react to weather and altitude changes more than a single.
I am not knocking dual carb. setups here but I think if it's ease of tune and consistent drivability you're after maybe a fuel system tune up from tank to carb. and a single carb. setup might not be a bad thing for you.
Keep in mind sounds like you had this setup working good, I would not go pulling the carbs. off just yet and creating another headache. first you need to determine if some underling cause like a fuel delivery issue has been giving you grief.
Some dual carb. setups end up working particulary well that might be the case with yours and you keep it. but after ruling out all the other systems if you find yourself having to mess with the carbs. a lot you won't regret going to a single. Some engine cam combs just don't produce the air flow to make dual carbs. work good at idle or start up.
Something to ponder.
Jeff
Fyi - I have a single carb setup. A single HS4.
I just put four new plugs in. Going to try to drive it tomorrow.
Bringing a spark plug socket with me to keep an eye on the plugs.
Basically, I ran out of gas, I put a tad over 6 gallons on the tank. I need to sort out the gauge / sending unit.
I've had bad sending units and just filled up every couple hundred miles. My old pickup I carried a gas can cause I ran out often lol.
I got confused somewhere along the line thinking you had dual carbs.
Jeff
Quote from: Mudhen on December 28, 2014, 04:37:10 PM
Quote from: Mudhen on December 20, 2014, 07:14:10 AM
Quote from: Jims5543 on December 20, 2014, 06:12:35 AM
If I keep this truck I am going to send it out and have the engine rebuilt. I would love to do it myself but I hoestly do not have the time.
What about bringing it somewhere now just to deal with the current issues? I've taken mine to a local shop a couple times to bail me out when I've gotten stuck - nothing like having professionals who have seen it all to get things fixed up quickly.
82.gif
LOL! I might do that if this keeps up, I feel like I am very close, although with 10 PSI oil pressure at idle and 20-25 while driving we all know what is coming.
When I pulled the plugs last night they were perfectly tan, like dark tan, not really tan, so I feel like it is tuned slightly rich, but I will check these new plugs after a little driving today.
I have poured over the shop manual and looked all over the engine and I will be damned if I can find the engine temp sending unit, I must be blind.
Any tips on that one?
Look below the tstat housing on the front side of the engine for the temp sender. I need to dig up your engine bay photo.
Found it.
And yeah, you may have just simply ran out of gas.
Eff me... I have to pull the Alternator again.....
At least I am getting to the point where I can pull it in seconds now.
Quote from: jeff10049 on December 28, 2014, 11:00:56 PM
I got confused somewhere along the line thinking you had dual carbs.
Jeff
It is Dans fault, he is always posting drunk on here and gets confused easily.
lol Why do I think you have dual carbs? :-[ 8.gif Maybe I'm the only one with dual carbs.
Ok I went back and looked. Jim has a single carb and Dan has dual carbs. I think I even emailed you about dual carbs at one point. I must be losing my mind.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20141229_175044_zpsj5zeodt4.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20141229_175044_zpsj5zeodt4.jpg.html)
Broke out a Jai Aliai IPA and pulled a plug a little on the.light tan side. Turned it out 1.5 flats and will see tomorrow. Yes I am trying to DD this thing.
Also "fixed" the temp sensor. Between running out of gas and this I think I am my own worst enemy. I started to pull the alternator (because a/c) then decided to get 2nd degree burns on my hand and just try to reach in and get the wire I knocked off like a dumbass pushed back on. I am a little numb so I was able to persevere and get it done.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20141229_180122_zps6iobualc.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20141229_180122_zps6iobualc.jpg.html)
1 sensor problem fixed.
I understand dropping the tank on a pickup is a PITA. Not sure it looks like it runs across the entire back of the truck. Not sure how big of a job maybe a weekend or afternoon?
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20141229_181142_zpseshhsblw.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20141229_181142_zpseshhsblw.jpg.html)
Also- any tips on getting the valve cover to seal up?
I purchased a new one with a new cork gasket.
Is there a rubber one? Gasket sealer? I feel the cancer growing in my lungs from the fumes.
Ha. Minis are fumey. The gasket just seals the oil, if that's leaking try some silicon.
Not sure you need to drop the tank just yet unless you've confirmed the pickup lines are an issue or you plan to put in a new sender for the gauge. Watching you go through all these issues is like de je vu for me.
They do make a silicon valve cover gasket. I have 2 in my garage safely set aside.
http://www.the-vintage-racer.com/index.php/manufacturer/12-gasket-innovations?page=2 (http://www.the-vintage-racer.com/index.php/manufacturer/12-gasket-innovations?page=2)
Quote from: MtyMous on December 29, 2014, 11:35:40 PM
They do make a silicon valve cover gasket. I have 2 in my garage safely set aside.
http://www.the-vintage-racer.com/index.php/manufacturer/12-gasket-innovations?page=2 (http://www.the-vintage-racer.com/index.php/manufacturer/12-gasket-innovations?page=2)
Ordered one and thank you!!
I know these things leak oil but this is crazy. I am leaving a puddle of oil at the end of the day. I thought putting anew valve cover would help and it did not.
Make sure you get the right one for your application. There's 2 mini gaskets. One for the standard valve cover, and one for your design. I've got the same design valve cover.
How you enjoy yours as much as I've enjoyed mine. No need to over torque. No cracking, no shifting around and breaking up into powder when too old.
The most important quality for Jim is that it can be reused...although, aren't Mini valves sort of a set-it and forget-it thing?
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Funerals/GIFS/i-sxRwVDL/0/O/peepwall.gif)
Haha
(http://[url=http://www.reactiongifs.com/r/2012/11/OohBurn.gif%5Dhttp://www.reactiongifs.com/r/2012/11/OohBurn.gif%5B/url%5D)
I wish! I have adjusted the valve clearence on this truck at least 5 times in 500 miles. Lol!!
You get that water temp working?
Quote from: 94touring on December 30, 2014, 04:45:22 PM
You get that water temp working?
Yep, see back a couple of posts. I squeezed my hand behind the alternator and pushed the wire back on. It works and if correct runs nice and cool. Our ambient temps are in the low 80's right now.
I saw it hooked up 4.gif. Figured with your luck it still didn't work though lol
Quote from: 94touring on December 30, 2014, 08:19:56 PM
I saw it hooked up 4.gif. Figured with your luck it still didn't work though lol
Ouch.
:D
Quote from: 94touring on December 30, 2014, 08:19:56 PM
I saw it hooked up 4.gif. Figured with your luck it still didn't work though lol
Well, I thought that too. But it appears to be working fine. She is parked today, it is terrible out so she gets a break. We have a "cold front" moving through. So upper 70's instead of 80's.
Yeah it's been literally freezing everywhere I've been.
It was 10 here this morning. I hate being cold almost as much as I hate hearing the furnace come on. 50.gif
I grew up in New England, do not miss it at all. People down here in Florida moan about lack of seasons, I do not, I get pissed if it get cooler than 65° here. I am most happy in 100° weather.
If I have to spell it out, hotter means less clothing. Think about it, you never say, wow she looks hot in that parka. In a bikini? yes, not a Parka.
Quote from: Jims5543 on January 02, 2015, 07:01:51 AM
I grew up in New England, do not miss it at all. People down here in Florida moan about lack of seasons, I do not, I get pissed if it get cooler than 65° here. I am most happy in 100° weather.
If I have to spell it out, hotter means less clothing. Think about it, you never say, wow she looks hot in that parka. In a bikini? yes, not a Parka.
:D
Whereabouts did you grow up?
Born in Nassau County Long Island (Islip) Grew up in Mineola (very close to New Hyde Park) then when I was 10 years old moved out to Shirley / Mastic area near the Hamptons.
Moved to Florida when I was 18 and wished I grew up here, took the summer I was 19 off and spent it surfing. At 18 I was smart enough to know cold sucks.
So Jim, I just read thru your whole thread and noticed no one answered you early on when you asked the question about the float having liquid in it......and the answer is no - it should not have fluid in it, and that was the source of your flooding problem. It takes a bit for the float to fill, and when you took it out of the carb when you were changing the jet some of it evaporated out again.
Now that you're on top of things, are you going to keep it?
I have a friend with a similar P'up, red with the olde English white top too, only he has a Honda Vtec motor in it. One of the reasons he bought it was for the Honda reliability.......hahahahaha, what he didn't count on was the fact that the rest of the car was still vintage Mini! In spite of everything (and there has been a LOT of everythings) he's done 18K miles in the 6 years he's had it.
Anyway, I hope you persevere and keep your little trucklet.
I have a brand new carb now so to old float is gone. I figured it was supposed to be dry inside and yes, it was the source of one of my "car almost caught fire" moments.
She seems to be very happy right now, which in turn, make me happy. I have been actually depending on her a lot these last 2 weeks since my son has my normal daily driver (95 Toyota Pickup) while he waits for a part for his E30 to arrive. You think Mini parts are a PITA, E30 parts can be just as bad, Turner Motorsports and Bav Auto are notorious for taking forever to ship a part. It took him 2 months to get a radiator once and it was nothing fancy, a stock one. We are waiting for a mid driveshaft support bearing, something he could have purchased at Autozone but he thinks that Bav has a better one. So we wait for almost 3 weeks.
The Mini truck is running well, my confidence in it is ever increasing. I wish I could get the wife on board, I wanted to use it to go out the other night and she refused telling me she was not in a mood to be broken down somewhere. I know how she feels but I feel like I am back on top of this thing.
Once we get our shop up and going I am planning on doing some more mechanical work to her as a preventative measure.
Assume BavAuto and Turners are only taking forever to ship because they don't actually have the part themselves - but if you ever need me to go in there with a pipe or something let me know - they're both local to me. I've used both for MINI parts in the past...I particularly like to use Turners junk pile to keep my car on the road. 77.gif
Glad your confidence is building back up!
Quote from: MtyMous on December 29, 2014, 11:35:40 PM
They do make a silicon valve cover gasket. I have 2 in my garage safely set aside.
http://www.the-vintage-racer.com/index.php/manufacturer/12-gasket-innovations?page=2 (http://www.the-vintage-racer.com/index.php/manufacturer/12-gasket-innovations?page=2)
Ordered on December 30th and they just created the shipping label today, 7 days later. It seems every part supplier has the same customer service SOP. Wait 1-2 weeks to ship the part, the customer did not REALLY need it.
No wonder Amazon is crushing everyone.
The clock in my dash only runs when the car is running. LOL!! that said I have now put over 4 hours of driving time in with her so far this week.
I used her in the field today and yesterday and will again tomorrow. I have put probably 300 miles on her since Friday last week.
The more I drive her the happier she seems.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20150107_110519_zpsuzzrc4ie.jpg)
71.gif
That's the coolest rig. I want one.
Awesome man. 300 miles...time to put gas in lol.
The more I drive her the happier she seems.
I preach this non stop to all classic car owners......they're cars, they were meant to be driven not sit in a garage.
How do you like the tonneau cover now that you've lived with it a bit?
Quote from: MiniDave on January 07, 2015, 12:14:59 PM
The more I drive her the happier she seems.
I preach this non stop to all classic car owners......they're cars, they were meant to be driven not sit in a garage.
How do you like the tonneau cover now that you've lived with it a bit?
I am a huge fan of the ARE fiberglass tonneau covers that hinge by the cab and lock down. I have put them on all my pickup trucks. Sadly they do not make them for Mini Cooper Pickups.
This one was custom made, I wish he had put the sides over the rails instead of stopping at the top of the rail. It would have hid the holes from the turn buckles better.
All that said, I like it, it is somewhat of a PITA when you are in and out all the time but it keeps stuff dry when it rains and comes off in a jiffy when I want to haul stuff around so it is doing its job.
Quote from: MiniDave on January 07, 2015, 12:14:59 PM
The more I drive her the happier she seems.
I preach this non stop to all classic car owners......they're cars, they were meant to be driven not sit in a garage.
How do you like the tonneau cover now that you've lived with it a bit?
Oops and yes, you are preaching to the choir. I am in the same camp with driving cars. I always drive mine and the only reason this one sat so much is because it had a lot of neglect issues that all reared their head as I tried to use her.
Finally!!! The gasket arrived, it only took 11 or 12 days to get it.
I just permatexed it to the cover and now it is finger tight on the engine.
I will clamp it down in the morning and hopefully no leaks.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20150111_155131_zpsmfxwjokp.jpg)
I'll be interested to see if this does the trick, before I send $15 for a freakin valve cover gasket! ;D
In the past I've had good luck with a fresh cork gasket carefully glued to my aluminum valve cover, and that's what I'm running on Buzz now So far, so good, and I've had it on and off a number of times to re-torque the head and adjust the valves etc.
I had great success with my first one and only had an issue with old gunk on the mating surface from an old gasket. I scraped it off and had a clean mating surface. Tightened it down just snug enough to where the gasket began to "squish" a tad. No leaks from the top.
Gasket working great nice and dry up top now.
Took the driving lights off for now.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20150113_200251_zpsvctosayf.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20150113_200251_zpsvctosayf.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20150113_200301_zpskugjncan.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20150113_200301_zpskugjncan.jpg.html)
I like the clean front end!
Front bumper is kinda of knarled up from the driving light mounting brackets rubbing on it. Our host just got a sale!!
I was on the fence when I took them off, I was so used to seeing it with them on that it looked naked without them, looking at it again today I am digging the cleaner look.
Yes I sell those, lol. I have several on top of the paint booth.
I often wonder about the effect on cooling of having half the grill blocked by driving lights, especially in the hotter climates....
Considering the radiators are side mount, I bet it's minimal. The radiator capacity is usually the culprit.
Yes but the cooling air comes in from the front, and the lights appear to block about half of it.....just wondering. It may have no effect at all......
To think a month ago I was about to give up on this poor little truck and now I am daily driving it. thanks for the encouragement again guys. I thought my passenger door hinges were shot, turns out the bolts were loose. I tightened it up and the door closes much better now.
Thanks again gang, I really appreciate the help.
I am driving through this fancy neighborhood Friday to go survey a fancy house that was owned by some very fabulous men. The color coordinated garden hoses gave them away.
I keep hearing this weird rubbing sound every time I turned right. Upon arriving at the fabulous house I walk around the Mini looking for the problem.
I was not expecting the exhaust to be resting very close to the ground.
So I grabbed my tool kit and a wire flag then dived under her in order to ascertain what the problem was and what I needed to do to fix it.
A hanging bracket snapped. So I pulled the exhaust back up and wrapped it with my wire flag.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20150120_175749_zpsedvzqsxe.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20150120_175749_zpsedvzqsxe.jpg.html)
To be honest, after going away for the weekend I forgot about it. So this evening I remembered it and then remembered I had purchased a variety of exhaust hangers. I dug those out, found one that worked and wala, all fixed.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20150120_180721_zpsu5kabgrr.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20150120_180721_zpsu5kabgrr.jpg.html)
Probably going to have to think replacement exhaust eventually. This one is pretty rusted up.
Lol nice. Yeah probably due for a new one.
Solid Fix- Good repair but i see future failure in the near future again... Be prepared
That rubber mount on the subframe to the bracket in your picture is under alot of STRESS pulling down - Even new ones dont like alot of DOWNWARD Stress - the ends will shear off and youll be back to bailing wire.
Prepare- Buy a few of the rubber mounts have on hand.
Double check the Center hanger - in the center of the rear subframe- in front of the muffler.Making sure all is connected still and taking any torque or twist out of the exhaust -that will rip that down.
Nice job== Keep Truckin
Thats Mini Life!
Thanks for the tip, I do not believe there is a center brace. I will take a look I have a variety of hangers on hand so I will see what I can do to get another one on there.
My old Toyota pickup had a hacked off exhaust, I returned it back to stock. In anticipation I purchased all these hangers so I would not need to run to parts store. To my delight, when I got under there, all the factory hangers were in tact.
So now I have about 4 hangers. I am sure I can fit another one on somewhere.
I, like Austin Powers, like to live dangerously. I could not remember my last fill up nor the mileage.
I thought I was ok to get through the day. I had my 1 gallon reserve gas in the back.
I decided to push on in an effort to get to the REC90 gas station near my office.
When I finally arrived to the station I put 6 gallons in.
Whew!! That was close.
I might be getting paranoid, but, it seems the engine is getting noisier. I am going to re adjust the valves this weekend.
We are picking up a spare spare car Saturday so I will not have to depend on the Mini so much. Which I like, I prefer to take it out here and there, not every day.
Plus it is a productivity killer, my co worker is now an expert on the truck and can give you a full run down on it if you ask him. He learned all this from hearing me field questions 5X a day every day for the last 2 weeks.
It's probably your imagination!
Quote from: Jims5543 on January 22, 2015, 11:07:45 AM
hearing me field questions 5X a day every day for the last 2 weeks.
ain't that the truth! And everyone who stops you either had one X years ago, or had a family member with one or knew someone who had one.....
I have the same problem with my Jag.
And everyone asks me if it's the V-12, and they're somehow disappointed when I tell them it's "just" the six. 8.gif ::) ;D
6 cylinder and 3 carbs yes?
My grandfather used to tell me what a fun task it was getting all 3 carbs in sync.
This was his shop in NYC in the early 70's.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/George%20Adams/IMG.jpg)
Quote from: Jims5543 on January 22, 2015, 03:25:03 PM
6 cylinder and 3 carbs yes?
No, mine is a '69, from '68 on they had twin Strombergs but I swapped mine for some SUs......
But I never had any trouble with the triple carbs either.....
I thought this was really cool and thought I would share this with you. The previous owner of my BMW made a 3 ring binder and organized all the receipts for the BMW in it.
He has it divided into sections, repairs, upgrades, maintenance and legal, he keeps all the paperwork pertaining to the car in there. I have all the work done or paid for by the previous 2 owners in there.
Since the car was almost a shell destined for a junkyard when the guy 2 owners ago restored it, I have a lot of receipts in there. Plus I have the owners Manual and maintenance records when it was new too.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/BMW/20150205_205020_zps2jp6mdfp.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/BMW/20150205_205042_zpsekpyau9m.jpg)
I liked the idea so much I started one on the Mini as well.
That's a great way to do it, I have those for the house and another for my shop, with all the owners manuals for shop equipment and appliances and such, sure makes them a lot easier to find.
I have binders for each of the cars, they go with it when I sell one.....
If your bumper is just scratched, you can sand it and polish it. You can also take out dents and then finish it. The how to is in my signature. That is the beauty with stainless.
I agree on the cooling. So many cars around here have big cattle catchers and monster driving lights that they overheat.
I just finished my exhaust system today. I used the SPI front section and joined a Corolla exhaust pipe with muffler to it. At the joint I dropped a metal hanger made out of a piece of scrap steel with an L facing upwards to a bolt through the floor (the bolt is long enough to use two nuts for adjustment). The long end fits one of the bolts on the connection from the front to the Toyota (actually flipped the toyota one around so the muffler is at the front, and cut off the curved connector that was at the other end). Then I cut hooks for the rubber mounts off the tail end, cut it in half, and welded half to the front of the rear frame above the handbrake guides, and the other half to the side of the pipe at that point. This pulls the tail pipe tight against the rear corner of the frame, so I made a rubber cushion for it (like the one on the windshield wiper motor, but from a heavy foam) and glued it to the frame.
Then for fun I added a chrome curve extension to it, after cutting the end so the angle would match. (not sure yet if I like the extension).
Lets talk engines, we are getting close to that time for me. As much as I would like to fool myself and think I can do a rebuild myself, it will not happen, I work 70 hour weeks and have 5 projects going at the house at any given time.
So time for consideration as to where to get a engine from.
I would prefer a newly rebuilt engine, I am game for laying up my Mini for a month or two.
Anyone have the resources to build one for me? Or do you have a source of a company (prefer the southeast USA and not MM) where I can send the old girl off for a spa treatment.
Oil pressure before my last oil change, 10 PSI at idle and 30-40 at 50 MPH hot.
After oil change with a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer, 30 at idle and 60-70 at 50 MPH hot.
Band aid I know, but damn, it has kept this rattling mess alive a lot longer than I expected. Last oil change I the magnetic drain plug had a large marble size wad of metal shavings on it. Plus the mystery rubber pieces are back.
I want to pull her off the road in about 4-6 weeks and pull the engine, I am pretty sure I cannot rebuild myself so time for options.
Thanks in advance.
7ent but they are west coast. I'm trying to think who does engine work on the east coast but my mind escapes me.
Quote from: 94touring on April 06, 2015, 08:06:20 PM
7ent but they are west coast. I'm trying to think who does engine work on the east coast but my mind escapes me.
Are you trying to think but nothing is happening......
(http://images.amcnetworks.com/ifc.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/three-stooges.jpg)
I guess I am OK with out of the area, I will check them out.
A couple of questions for anyone who has built their own engine. Would you do it again? How much did your engine run you?
Do you feel you did a better job than a shop like 7ent?
Try Steve Gibbs at CooperTune Racing in Virginia:
Cooper Tune Racing <Jlgibbsrealtor@aol.com>
Yes Steve, that's the name I couldn't remember. Was just looking at 7ent and see the base 1275 is 6k and no core needed.
I built my own, as I did my Corvair and Renault. Parts were $495 from Mini Sport, including dual timing chain kit, bearings, rings, gaskets, water pump, thermostat.
I started with 50 psi compression, but measuring let me stay with standard rings and a slight hone. If it is worn beyond that you need to add oversized pistons.
I spent closer to $3000 to rebuild mine, including all the machine work needed - on the head they put in hardened seats, new guides, ground the seats, and surfaced the head - about $800 including stellite faced exhaust valves and the proper guides and seals. On the block they bored/honed it to spec, line bored the crank bearings, machined the crank journals 20 under, decked the block, boiled it out and so on - with rings, bearings, gaskets, seals for both the engine and transmission, thermostat, new cam and lifters, new rockers etc - I easily hit that number. Then I wound up pulling it back out 2 months later to replace the slipping clutch - it worked fine when the engine only had about half the hp!
I don't think you can do it any cheaper than that for a total rebuild done right.....unless all it took was to be freshened up like Richard's.
I am pretty sure if I dug inside this engine, there would be a lot that would need to be replaced. So I am leaning towards buying a fresh rebuild and swapping it in. There is a rather loud and alarming engine knock when you cold start, it lasts a couple of seconds until the oil pressure comes up. Plus my oil changes are telling me that pretty soon there is not going to be much left inside this engine. The amount of shavings is alarming.
I was barely have time to do that, a rebuild myself is pretty much out of the question.
I am probably not going to be able to spend the money on this until later in the summer. I am a since it is out, type and will want to do a lightened flywheel, new clutch and probably some cooling upgrades since I am in Florida.
I can see this creeping up another grand before I am done.
So lets play, what should I do or upgrade.
I am thinking:
Lightened flywheel, and better clutch.
Aluminum radiator, new hoses, water pump and thermostat
Transmission, can I request different gearing? I know I will sacrifice some get up and go if I gear so I can get some more top speed and not be winding the engine out.
You can pick up a nice thick aluminum radiator off ebay (Chinese but I have used several) for just over a hundred bucks. The cooling system in general is very cheap to replace. If I remember correctly you'd need to go verto clutch to utilize a lightened flywheel and have better clutch options. I will look again but I think the 7k 7ent engine had that done and a few other random things like high compression pistons and head work. There are gear options. Hard for me to fathom how expensive the engines are in these things. A used up 1275 lump should net you $750, maybe even as much as a grand these days. Maybe someone locally can pick up what you have left over.
I can address the gearing choices - I went with the 2:76 gears on mine and love how it runs on the highway, I'm only turning about 3300 at 70 mph! It pulls that nicely with no issues but I think were I to do it again I'd go with the 3-1 ratio instead, the taller gears make it a little odd in town - hard to choose between running in third or fourth depending on the speed limit. It's a little tall in 4th at say 35 mph.
Whether they will allow you to choose your ratio at 7 Ent, you'd have to call and ask them....I believe they have tune options from std all the way up to big hp - more money of course.
Buying a complete engine/transmission is a great way to get it back on the road in a hurry....but a lightened flywheel and tall gears is not a good match - I'd stick with std Verto stuff and flywheel.
Thanks for the input so far. I am taking heed of all of it. I need to stop thinking this is a high strung sports car and focus on KISS, keep is simple stupid.
That said, reading some of your posts. I am thinking I keeping it as stock as possible, for simplicity and budget.
So I am not having them do anything custom, keeping the tranny, flywheel and clutch stock (I do want a new clutch though) and I will upgrade the cooling.
Luckily I have a couple of months to beat this into the damn ground before I pull the trigger.
I probably should have replaced the clutch slave and added the braided line when I did the master. LOL!! I broke my own rule to always do that, when one goes the other is not far behind. In this case 1 year behind.
The slave is leaking now. So she goes in the air on Sunday for replacement, at least I have the parts on the shelf now.
Yeah replacing all my hydraulics in one shot.
I officially have less than a gallon of gas in the tank (after it running out again and me adding a gallon to get it home) LOL!! So she is parked and I hope to drop the tank tomorrow to change the sender.
Finally.
Good luck. I just did two senders on sedans and they couldn't have been easier. Pretty sure you've gotta drop the tank to get to yours.
Just be careful not to strip the plastic nuts that hold the tank up. Plastic hardens up over the years.
Replacement plastic nuts are not hard to come by, you might even check your local Ace hardware, they may have some that work.....they do get brittle over time.
The ones available here will not hold the weight, even of the empty tank. I ended up fishing little bolts through the rear rail and out the bottom.
Dropped the tank yesterday and replaced the sender, I will drive up today and top off the tank and see what we have, right now it reads empty, because, well it has less than 1 gallon.
I am not too sure what plastic pieces everyone was speaking of. My tank was bolted right into the frame of the truck with metal screws.
I can snap some pics if anyone is curious.
Also the tank comes out much easier if you take the gas cap off. ;D
The metal screws on the back end go into the plastic spacers that are about 1 cm tall. I fished bolts through the little holes in the lower panel (a lot of patience required).
If I had thought about it before painting, I would have welded nuts to that panel.
There are suppose to be a series of plastic nuts that snap into square holes along where it mounts. Perhaps someone else simply used metal screws around the mounting spots. So long as it's secure and you have a working fuel gauge!
Quote from: richard1 on May 17, 2015, 06:05:47 AM
The metal screws on the back end go into the plastic spacers that are about 1 cm tall. I fished bolts through the little holes in the lower panel (a lot of patience required).
If I had thought about it before painting, I would have welded nuts to that panel.
Yeah, if I ever do a restoration on this I think that is a great idea.
Quote from: 94touring on May 17, 2015, 06:07:19 AM
There are suppose to be a series of plastic nuts that snap into square holes along where it mounts. Perhaps someone else simply used metal screws around the mounting spots. So long as it's secure and you have a working fuel gauge!
LOL!! Yeah no plastic nuts anywhere. I did have the spacers behind the lip in the rear but these machine screws went through them and right into the body of the car, in the front they are screwed right into the cross member.
It is nice and secure and considering how hard it was to drop it with all the screws removed, pickup / fuel line needed to be removed and it got hung up on the exhaust as well as the filler neck not coming out with the gas cap on, I suspect it is not going anywhere now with the screws in.
I am not going to have time to run for gas until this afternoon so I will not know until then.
It has been a long time since I dropped a tank but that's what I remember anyways.
I think you got lucky and the plastic had not deteriorated and no one had previously put the wrong screws in or something, as the original holes are about 1/4 inch square. The spacers have little lips on them that snap in to the square, and then are held into that position by the screw through the center.
Plastic is nice in that it does not rust, but I doubt that anyone considered how they would be after 40 years or so.
Anyway, glad you got it together.
Here ya go, this is obviously one of the rear ones. It is a oversize metal screw going through the tank flange then through a spacer then into sheet metal.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/Mobile%20Uploads/20150517_121352_zps90xn9rht.jpg)
It looks to me like the hole to the right of the screw going through the metal and the rust hole above it is where the tank should be held up.
At least that's how the tank is held up on my pickup.
Yep, that would be another way to solve it, make a new hole.
Yeah suppose to go through the hole to the right technically.
Does this mean I will never win a car show?
Probably aren't even British screws holding it up. Rubish.
Bah, filled up tank still registers 1/2 on the gauge.
I will dig into this when I have time, of course, of course now the gauge is suspicious.
Hmm. Ground the wire off the tank and see if the gauge pegs full.
Will not have time until Mid week, I will give that a try.
You have an electric pod too right? Not the old school center 3 gauge pod? I can't remember if the newer style has a voltage stabilizer like the old ones. Mine was wired wrong and wouldn't register, and my temp gauge pegged full. Once I got the wires sorted everything worked. The newer ones just have a circuit board style sheet of paper behind it.
I had problems with the gauge on my Corvair. Soldered and checked the float, checked wires, finally bought a new sender from a car that used the same resistance and modified it to fit (shortening and bending takeup and float). Still would not work right. Then I started on the gauge. Found that there was corrosion and wear on the needle bearing, causing it to stick and bounce. Replaced with two used ones that had their own problems. Finally a NOS gauge showed up on ebay and I grabbed it. Problem solved.
I mended the condenser (JB weld) over the weekend and set out today to try to find a new dryer since the system has been sitting open for a couple of months in a high humidity climate.
No joy so far, any suggestions on where to source one is appreciated.
I tried Autozone and they were useless.
I was thinking of stopping into a AC specialist shop and see if they may be able to match up a dryer.
I looked all over this one for some ID numbers or anything and there is just a worn out sticker that is illegible on the bottom.
I am also happy to report, I checked my oil today and for the first time since owning the car the oil is finally staying clean for more than 1K miles. It is actually clear and has almost 1K miles on it.
So I finally have the engine cleaned back out inside.
I have not tackled the gas gauge yet, I am leaving on a road trip Wednesday so I spent the weekend mostly on the E30 going over everything.
Probably an ac shop. I don't suppose you looked through minispares to see if they have anything?
Post the question over on Mini Mania's forum and ask for a response from the user "MadDog". His name is Angel Ruiz and he used to work for an A/C wholesale parts supplier. He was also the parts source for the owner of that pickup that installed the A/C.
Dan could also post for you over on the Mini Owners of Texas forum site. It may take a few days for getting a reply in either forum - I don't know how actively Angel watches those forums anymore.
Thanks for the tip Mike, I will log in there if my plan A does not work.
I purchased 3 different dryers for a total cost of $60 off of amazon. All 3 are similar in appearance to the one I have here.
It is a start, I am hoping to get lucky and have one fit. If not, well, it was worth a try.
I saw a post on there where a guy is selling a complete Ac setup for $800. I am going to ask if he could be kind enough to look over his dryer and see if he has some ID numbers. He said his kit was a 1995 vintage.
It sucks this car has no records on it. As mentioned earlier I am remedying that.
Sent an email to the last poster.
http://www.minimania.com/msgThread/111056/1/1/A-C_System_For_Sale (http://www.minimania.com/msgThread/111056/1/1/A-C_System_For_Sale)
One of the 3 dryers fits perfectly.
This one if anyone needs it.
http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Conditioning-RD1149C-Auto-Part/dp/B001C9U1D4 (http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Conditioning-RD1149C-Auto-Part/dp/B001C9U1D4)
The Part# was RD1149C
The threads for the pressure switch as well as the hoses were all perfect and the size was exact to the one that I took out.
I see ice cold AC coming my way this weekend.
Next up, cooling system and figuring out that gas gauge.
My temp gauge runs in the 1/2 area and will creep up to 3/4 if I am in traffic in high ambient temps. Not sure if that is good or not.
Do you have an aluminum radiator? Did you see the one I bought today? I've been putting them in the minis I build and they work great. 50mm core and very affordable.
Ordering a water pump vs. Dan:
Is there a bypass???????????????????
Just look at the back of the water pump he says....
Just look at the back of the head he says....
I am reaching in places I cannot fit my face with my phone here.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/Mobile%20Uploads/20150612_174241_zpsofvu5azy.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/Mobile%20Uploads/20150612_174248_zpsvorgcpur.jpg)
So I did what Jim does, I ordered two, one with a bypass one without, when I tear it down I will decide which one works. $35 is less annoying to me than not having the truck. I need it next Friday.
Lol good luck. You have a lot of belts to deal with too. I just ran across info on an electric pump that saves 4hp dyno proven and an electric fan conversion that cuts noise and saves fuel. Now I want to do that.
The bypass hose goes from the top of the water pump into the bottom of the head, I think only the later FI cars didn't have it.
This is a pic of a pump with the bypass.....it's the short tube sticking up on the lower hose connection.
(http://www.minispares.com/image.axd?type=product&picture=350/GWP134.jpg)
Be sure to install the hose on the head before you install the pump, you pretty much can't get the hose on once the pump is installed.
Quote from: MiniDave on June 12, 2015, 06:44:05 PM
I think only the later FI cars didn't have it.
My engine is a mid 80's MG Metro and it does not have the bypass.
While the ambient temps here are in the mid 80's the power of the sun and then parking a hot car in the garage = 96 degree garage temps....
You can assume that was my motivation to get my A/C installed. Needless to say, it is back in. I will vacuum and charge it in the morning.
Woo hoo!
Oh and I think my antifreeze leak is just overflow. No more leaking. ;D
Good news bad news...
Good news, the repaired condenser holds pressure, I pulled a nice vacuum and it stayed rock solid for 15 minutes, then precharged with oil then started charging, had the AC on engine running (more on that later) and then waited for the system pressure to come up so the compressor would kick on. It never did, so I checked the fan on the back of the condenser and it was not on either.
Started running a test light around and no power past the pressure switch. Nothing at the compressor and nothing on the fan. So I need to either look for a new pressure switch or chase around why there is no power system wide.
Back to the car running, when installing the condenser, I knocked the cap loose on the dizzy and did not notice. The car fired right up and ran... rough and there was a knocking... I am looking around for this knock then see the cap flopping around. I stood there mesmerized for a second wondering how the hell the car was even running.
I put the cap back on and she is still running rough, so I start making sure all the wires are on good and get shocked from #1 and #4 both when I touch the boot. Not good, these wires are new, this should not be happening. Gonna look for some better quality wires for it. Wondering if a set of Honda wires might fit. I might go to Autozone and buy a cheap set to see if they will work, if so then buy some Nology wires for it.
I also tore up the cap so new cap and rotor are needed. I need to check on 7ent and see what cap and rotor the 123 uses.
Also, just damn, with the condenser back in, life just sucks under the hood. Wondering if I should just suck it up and not have AC. Although it would be really nice to have this summer.
With it running pull a plug wire one at a time from each plug and see if any make a difference in how it runs. How messed up is the cap and rotor?
Quote from: 94touring on June 14, 2015, 07:09:33 PM
With it running pull a plug wire one at a time from each plug and see if any make a difference in how it runs. How messed up is the cap and rotor?
Not bad, the car runs fine now, I took it for a spin and it runs like it always did. BUT, finding out my wires are arching was not:
A. Fun - it hurt
2. Concerning since this means I am bleeding spark.
Just going to order up a new cap and rotor for my next attempt at getting AC. ;D
The wires are bothering me though, so I am going to figure out something with them.
Yeah I dunno. I've been shocked before but seems like I had a plug pulled when it happened.
Any fuses to check on that ac power issue?
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160403_190736_zpsf6tqrlf1.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20160403_190736_zpsf6tqrlf1.jpg.html)
Finally getting to that radiator huh?
Was going to wait until new engine. Decided to just do it.
Speaking of spare radiators....minidave needs one for his engine runup setup he's putting together. Maybe you two can work out a deal on shipping your old one.
Reading a thread like this really encourages me to clean the garage.
Mine, before and after.....I had to clean it up, I just couldn't work in there anymore.....
That's pure luxury. I'll take a picture of my shrinking cave, and wonder why the simplest tasks take forever. Yes, it bothers me that mine's a mess, heck, it's downright dangerous; but garages in this city are few and far between. Buying parts and improving the car has been an addiction/obsession.
If I can somehow land a job (got 4 more rejections today - 1 x sales, 2 x product support, 1 x English language translator (go figure...)) - anything at this point, or even get to an interview - then I'll move to a place in the country. Hyacinth wants to move; I don't want the financial liability of having a mortgage. I'm really glad I went to school... 50.gif
After putting the Big Ass LED lights in my garage I realized it was a mess. The old lights were so dim you did not notice how bad it was in there.
Because I do not have enough to do I have been slowly remodeling the place. I now have a TV complete with an Amazon Fire box, an old laptop and new sound system for tunes while working. Oh, and I had an old wine fridge I tried to sell unsuccessfully. I threw that in the garage too and stocked it with Beer.
I will grab a pic this weekend.
Quick question, I obviously have to remove this top engine mount / stabilizer, do I need to jack or support it? Or is the function purely to stop twisting?
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160403_190013_zpsbt7s6jnl.jpg)
It's just there to limit the engine rocking back and forth.
It is only there to prevent the engine rocking. It does not hold anything up. Unless you drive really hard you really do not need it as long as you have the one on the clutch end.
Well, I drive like a lunatic so I will keep it on.
I added a lower stabilizer and really like the improvement.
If your garage had a sofa, I'd ask if I could move in for a while! 4.gif
Quote from: 94touring on April 08, 2016, 06:45:01 AM
I added a lower stabilizer and really like the improvement.
Agreed - I added the pair of stabilizers that extend backwards and bolt to the lower subframe legs and they did make a difference. The more the better, actually. Personally, I use 4 stabilizers - the standard dogbone over the clutch housing, 1 lower from the oil drain area forward, 2 x diff. housing backward to rear legs. Rock solid. 77.gif
The single biggest problem with the type that mounts on the thermostat housing is that it becomes impossible to change the thermostat.
I hadn't thought about adding more but maybe I'll try it out.
Which lower stabilizer?
Links to the ones I'm using:
MSSK (http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Stabilisers_mounts/Stabilisers/MSSK.aspx?100201&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/mssk.aspx%7CBack%20to%20search) Kit for lower R/H rearward.
MSSK001 (http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Block/MSSK001.aspx?1001&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/mssk.aspx%7CBack%20to%20search) Kit for lower L/H rearward.
KKU10080 (http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Body/Subframes/Fixings_mountings/KKU10080.aspx?030801&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/KKU10080.aspx%7CBack%20to%20search) Heavy-duty bracket for lower R/H forward. I'd broken 2 of the original thin NAM3760 (http://minispares.com/product/Classic/Body/Subframes/Fixings_mountings/NAM3760.aspx?030801&ReturnUrl=/product/Classic/Body/Subframes/Fixings_mountings/KKU10080.aspx%7CBack%20to) brackets. The thicker one works well, but I needed to install longer studs to mount it.
FAM2758 (http://minispares.com/product/Classic/FAM2758.aspx?ReturnUrl=/catalogues/classic/Classic~Mechanical~Parts~Manual/Engine/Engine~Mountings~~Brackets.aspx?1~2~28%7CBack%20to%20catalogue#alt) - Lower R/H forward adjustable dogbone. I've the original-style 'fixed' dogbone installed here, t'was less expensive than the adjustable type back in the day.
Awesome, thanks!
Possibly overkill? I don't know, but the engine doesn't move.
Being shorthanded at work and being really busy does not afford me much free time lately.
I finally pulled the water pump and thermostat, man what a mess.
Found my slow water leak.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160421_191312_zps3dacicxt.jpg)
I had a hell of a time getting the housing off too. It was more than glued on there, fused would be a better term.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160421_185937_zpstgnjcdgf.jpg)
Very mini. ;D
Looks like the coolant hasn't been changed in like.......... forever.......
When I rebuilt Buzz the coolant looked and had the texture of liquid mud.
Well....
I am learning a lot about my truck through this process.
I have the wrong water pump and I have the wrong lower radiator hose.
Water Pump - I thought I had a bypass engine, it seems I do not I have 2 bypass water pumps now. LOL!!
Lower Radiator Hose, by accident, I purchased a no heater one. LOL!!
I was expecting a new thermostat cover today, UPS would not deliver because I was not home... WTF???
Now I may have found a 1275 to swap in so all this may be for naught.... well the radiator will not be.
Dang. Well on the pump you can put a rubber cap on the bypass at least.
Might have a gone over 1275 manual in good shape on the hook locally so this engine work is on hold for now, I see an engine swap coming up.
Then I am tearing this engine down and rebuilding it to my liking.
I think I love chaos and this upcoming weekend will be no exception. : wink
Disclaimer: I have had a really shitty day, drank some 90 Minute IPA's that I grabbed on my way home and this post may or may not be coherent.
The backstory:
A member here emailed me about my pickup truck, asking if he would fit, if I liked my truck, would I sell (LOL) etc....
I found him a MINT pickup in Miami for sale and emailed him the link for the for ad on MM. It sold as fast as it went up.
Then I noticed the ad was from GB Motor Parts in Miami who I use for all my parts now and decided to email Sergio, the owner in an hail mary attempt to find an engine for my Mini.
Their website found here: http://gbcarparts.com/
Well, as luck would have it Sergio had a 1275 that had been gone over (not rebuilt just checked out) that he was going to use in his car but fell upon a 1380 that he liked more. So lucky day for me. I typed "SOLD" to him and promised to be there 1st thing Saturday morning to pick up the engine.
I asked if I could arrive at 0800 which meant I would have to hit the road a 0600 to be there but I would avoid the Miami traffic. In fine Miami fashion* he asked if 0900 was o.k.? Who was I to demand I said fine.
I ran out of time Friday and the bank closed before I could withdraw cash. So I planned on getting cash in Miami at the nearest branch of my bank then rolling in. I told Sergio that I would be 20-30 minutes late and he was o.k. with that.
So we meet at 0930 Saturday morning and I have to say, he is legit, he is the most chill and down to earth car parts and car salesmen I ave ever met in real life. You get a vibe off people and Sergio is the real deal, he loves Minis and his kind soul is VERY evident. He is good people and I was at ease dealing with him.
We loaded the engine into my Toyota Pickup, I snapped some fast pics that turned out blurry of his space and off I went, by noon I was back home with a very solid 1275. I was more than happy.
Sunday was family day so no car stuff occurred. Then things heated up by Monday, and this is what I came home to in the garage after work Monday plans are in place to fix this.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160502_201239_zpsyyjbeiuj.jpg)
On to pics.
This is the GB Auto Parts shop in Miami I urge you guys to use Sergio, I was blown away by his kindness, he is a good guy who I hope may be a member here soon.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160430_093324_zps5bigx0s2.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160430_093328_zps3kcarlzi.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160430_093332_zpsndamutgg.jpg)
I got the engine home then had to assemble the engine lift. Which took a lot longer then expected.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/IMG_20160430_121711_zpsxfkksl4e.jpg)
The engine:
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160430_121320_zpsvb7lqtlb.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160430_121335_zpsidblco23.jpg)
Stuck in garage next to the Mini waiting to be stuffed in.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160430_150307_zpsjfgs2pdx.jpg)
I hope to get up at the but crack of dawn Saturday to pull the old engine and swap the new one in. I may take some time to detail the engine bay. I decided to not in stall the AC for now and put it back in when I put the 1283 engine back in.
* Miami - clubs are open until 0600 things do not start to happen in Miami until 2300 so no one is awake at 0800 hence my desire to be there early.
Hope it runs as good as it looks. Good luck on the swap. 4.gif
Anything is better than the engine I have in there now. 10 psi oil pressure at idle and 30 while driving I have to give Lucas oil stabilizer credit for making last so long. I have not driven 1000 miles in the last year so that helped too and will change once I have an engine I can trust.
Nice job! I also have a local guy here that got a "rebuilt" 1293 From GB /Sergio
Had a 3:10 Gear also installed byd him and a proper cleaned up head- 1 3/4 HIF Carb and a peppier cam. That thing ran like stink! and was a great powerplant.
I expect you will respond with no less when your's is in and going.
There are different ways you can go about owning a dog, you can go to a breeder, you can go to a puppy store, or you can go to a rescue and give a dog a second chance at life.
This is officially no longer me giving a Mini some love, I really feel like I rescued this truck now, especially after my horrific evening today.
According to Dan this is typical Mini, which is just, well.... sad. I though Mini owners loved their cars, everything I see in this poor little truck is just neglect and I cannot fathom how any owner loved this truck. Mike if you read this you flipped this truck you did not technically own it, this is not directed at you.
I am trying to use this forums hosting to bear with me as I flash learn it when posting multiple images. I cannot get it to work so Photobucket it is.
This is the intake manifold. Nothing special here.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160505_202129_zpsxiohrv1v.jpg)
Here is the side of it where coolant is supposed to flow through.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160505_202145_zpsrj5ajn8x.jpg)
Mostly the proper brass nuts for the intake/exhaust with some oddball nuts thrown in, order for all new ones being made.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160505_202303_zps1cfdppai.jpg)
Heater hose:
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160505_203900_zpsmc2gpis1.jpg)
Heater Valve:
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160505_204914_zpswutikns5.jpg)
Decided to just pull the head, I was dying to see what was going on inside there anyway. Look at the valve on the end, that was the cylinder with the loose rocker nut that was not functioning. Check out all the blockage on the ports.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160505_210821_zpsml4gweqo.jpg)
Cylinder looked surprisingly good, well, outside all the ports being blocked or almost blocked. Wow!
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160505_210836_zps1gq1mom9.jpg)
As she sits after I quit for the night, I hope to be able to get her up in the air disconnect the underside stuff and get her pulled by Saturday morning, then the cleaning up happens and hopefully Sunday Morning I can get the new engine dropped in so I can start to slowly place everything back on.
I already know I am not going to have heat or AC so that will make it easier.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160505_214920_zpsetxdvxml.jpg)
That sure is a pretty engine! 77.gif
Jim,
I have been following this thread. I felt bad the more I learned how much the pickup had been neglected before I got it. I got it at a bad time for me and as you say - flipped it basically breaking even. I owned it just long enough to get the title into my name.
I am glad you don't hold this one against me. I usually try to pass a Mini along in better condition than when I acquired it.
Quote from: MPlayle on May 05, 2016, 07:38:57 PM
Jim,
I have been following this thread. I felt bad the more I learned how much the pickup had been neglected before I got it. I got it at a bad time for me and as you say - flipped it basically breaking even. I owned it just long enough to get the title into my name.
I am glad you don't hold this one against me. I usually try to pass a Mini along in better condition than when I acquired it.
I have been very careful and as you can see in the post above, I do not blame you, you purchased and flipped this truck out fast. As I understand you never even drove it.
I am the kind of guy you WANT to buy any of my cars from, I am over the top with the maintenance, just like you. No hard feelings at all, I still feel like I got a great deal on this truck, what made it sweeter is this engine I grabbed it for 50% of what a rebuild would cost, fingers crossed it is a good tight engine, judging by Sergio's demeanor I think I have a very good engine, especially since it was going to be in one of his cars.
From what Dan has told me, many cars that come from straight form England are in very poor shape and very neglected. I tracked down some history on this truck and I know this truck was restored by P&L Mini's in England in 2004 for a customer who must have sold it shortly thereafter, or maybe not, I would love to know when it came to the states. My point is from 2004 to 2014 when I purchased it, I am amazed at the deterioration of many parts of this car. Who ever owned it from 2004 until 2013 when you purchased and sold to me must not like cars very much.
Those water port blockages are indicative or not running coolant, but rather water straight out of the tap.
Even if you live where it doesn't freeze you need to run coolant for it's protective and lubricant properties.
New engine will make it so much more fun to drive again! 4.gif
Quote from: MiniDave on May 05, 2016, 08:08:20 PM
Those water port blockages are indicative or not running coolant, but rather water straight out of the tap.
Even if you live where it doesn't freeze you need to run coolant for it's protective and lubricant properties.
New engine will make it so much more fun to drive again! 4.gif
She would constantly need coolant and I only used a 50/50 bottle of prestone to top her off. Sadly much of the damage was done already.
Yes, I am excited to get a solid engine in this girl, with that brand new carb and 123 Dizzy she should really purr.
I may finally travel more than 20 miles from my house now. My dad has been begging me to take it to a giant car meet 70 miles away, I knew better hopefully I can do that now.
Looking back at some old picture albums I have from the 2004 to 2005 time frame, I am thinking the person I got the truck from is the person that bought it from P&L Minis and imported it to the US. He is also the owner that installed the a/c system.
You'll be driving it so much all sorts of other things will be breaking, like God intended.
Well, that is effing encouraging....
What else can go wrong?
I fear the answer.
Lol. I am willing to bet a wheel bearing is on the to do list within 12 months. Which means you'll do both or all 4 and ball joints.
Well since I am a proponent of this thing called preventative maintenance which seems to be lost in the Mini world, guess what I am going to do now?
Wheel bearings and ball joints and what the hell may as well do the tie rods too.
Cv joints while you're at it...
Careful. Dan will soon have you talked into totally rebuilding it. You know how long it has taken him so far on his pickup?
9.gif
I know it's been pretty bad. I have however secured a front clip and newer rear suspension to slap on it once I paint it. Perhaps this will be the summer I paint it.
DOnt forget New Cones + shock Absorbers!
(seriously) Cones - These days rubber cones dont last more than 8 years or so - then are squished out and hard as rocks.
Replace cones for ride comfort!
I think I have springs in this car, will crawl under and check it out. If not then either springs or cones. If I am in there I may as well do what I want. I have a set of shocks wating to go in along with a full brake overhaul (new rotors, pads, calipers, drums, shoes, pistons etc..)
Slowly moving along, finally getting her up in the air to get the engine out.
Insane work schedule getting in the way.
Hope to make more progress tomorrow night when I am a bachelor for the evening.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160510_194107_zpsldp6v32g.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160510_194452_zps0zffdyij.jpg)
Take a wheel off and look directly aabove the upper arm. you'll either see a trumpet that has a cone on the other end or if you're lucky a hi-lo with perhaps a spring or cone up there.
Quote from: 94touring on May 10, 2016, 07:12:34 PM
Take a wheel off and look directly aabove the upper arm. you'll either see a trumpet that has a cone on the other end or if you're lucky a hi-lo with perhaps a spring or cone up there.
I know it has hi-low's I thought it had springs too, I will take a peak now.
Uhg!! I wish I had not looked.
Rubber cones, hi-low's and lots and lots of rust.
Pics to come, once I get the engine out I am putting the entire car up in the air so I can work over the 4 corners with brakes suspension etc..
Remember the loose rocker nut?
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20140303_185631_zps7tiesc1t.jpg)
I thought to myself, how does this happen.
Well, I figured it out, after wrenching around on this car for a bit now, I have noticed one common theme. Nothing is tight, the intake was loose, the exhaust was loose, every bolt I put a wrench or ratchet onto is finger tight and not torqued.
When I went under the truck to start unhooking the linkage I noticed one of the rods had just the screw the nut was long gone.
I have the entire truck up in the air, I have to grab some spare jack stands to get the front wheels off the ground then all the wheels are coming off. Then I will decide on coil overs out just put new cones and shocks in. I have all new brake components, and I am ordering in wheel bearings and CV shafts this week.
Lots of cleaning painting and deciding these next few weeks. Hope to have her on the road again in a few weeks.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/IMG_20160515_183939_zps2vbrqgwd.jpg)
Did you find the missing rocker adjusting locknut?
Happened again!? Didn't you just drive it?
I think that is the old picture. Didn't Jim switch out the entire rocker assembly for a roller version?
Yes, that is an old picture and in that old picture you can see the lock nut laying in the oil. It was never tightened or not torqued correctly.
I pondered how that could happen 2 years ago, I now know. Who ever worked on this car must not have owned tools or was not strong enough to tighten a nut or bolt correctly.
It has made pulling this engine easy as nothing is on tight on this entire car including the water pump, thermostat, etc... Every time I put a wrench on something it just turned with zero effort.
It is amazing things were not falling off this car while I was driving.
Usually I have the opposite problem, nothing will come undone.
<br />(http://thumb.ibb.co/jHLaQa/20160528_112434.jpg) (http://ibb.co/jHLaQa)<br /><br />(http://thumb.ibb.co/d8jfrF/20160528_115233.jpg) (http://ibb.co/d8jfrF)<br />
Busy weekend. Trying to drop new engine in and swap out the suspension.
The coilovers are sexy....
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160528_105345_zpseqfzeyyv.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20160528_105345_zpseqfzeyyv.jpg.html)
Up and over...
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160528_161610_zpsc67uz51a.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20160528_161610_zpsc67uz51a.jpg.html)
This wasted a lot of time. I assumed the new engine mount on the tranny side was good so I left it on even though I had 2 new mounts. Turns out it was slightly wider where it mounts to the car. Had to lift the engine 5 inches and swap in the right one. Only after wasting an hour trying to figure out what I was doing wrong.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160528_180625_zpseverddms.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20160528_180625_zpseverddms.jpg.html)
Newer engine in. Have some issues I need to sort out. Questions tomorrow.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160528_185540_zpsnnyfib6r.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20160528_185540_zpsnnyfib6r.jpg.html)
Certainly looks nice sitting there 4.gif
Yep, you're going to have so much more fun with a properly running engine! 4.gif
Parts from Miami arrived today a week after the UK parts. LOL!!
No excuses now, I have pretty much everything I need to finish.
Dan and I were discussing my newer Metro alternator and starter vs. the wiring in my 1978 wiring.
Here are some pics Dan, hope they are clear.
Old Alternator. Hook up is a simple wire with a nut and another wire plugged in.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160531_213147_zpsi3svykvv.jpg)
Newer Alternator needs a plug. I do not have the plug and I am going to need some wiring info to figure out what it wants where.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160531_213134_zpsfks8o76w.jpg)
Old Starter, very simple, one wire to a nut, wire comes from a heavy relay mounted on the side fender wall.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160531_213123_zpszpqc2z8y.jpg)
New Starter has a different size bolt and I am not sure if there were any others, I am sure this is an easy fix, a larger wire washer and I should be o.k.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160531_213103_zpsnu3ca7fl.jpg)
The only other thing inhibiting me right now is motivation to go out in a 95° garage in 90% humidity. I am working on AC. I have a window unit, better still, my friedn has a 12,000 btu ductless setup he just pulled from a clients house, it was too big for the room, it is only 2 years old so I may be able to get a really good deal on it.
Tracking my friend down and nailing him to a price and time frame is proving difficult. He is as busy as I am.
Jim,
For the alternator wiring:
I believe the old alternator's main output lead is the screw-post and the 'field sense' line is the smaller bullet connection. To hook these to the new alternator, the large wire will connect to either of the bigger spade connectors and the 'field sense' line to the single small spade connector.
For the starter wiring:
The old starter used a separate solenoid mounted to the fender. The batter feed, alternator feed, and main harness power lines all go to that separate solenoid. The new starter has the "integrated" solenoid piggybacked. All of the old connections will need to be migrated. The drawback is the wires likely will not reach the new solenoid location.
Have you checked whether you can re-use the original starter and alternator with the new engine? If so, that should simplify the wiring side of the exchange.
The starter wires up differently - the main cable from the battery goes to the big lug on the starter, the red/white wire to the solenoid on the firewall goes to the small spade terminal on the starter or - take another big cable from the solenoid to the starter and move the red/white wire to the starter - that way your supply to the fuse panel stays intact.
For the new alternator, you can buy a plug kit with the lugs in it for about $5..... one of the small wires goes to the light in the instrument panel, that light has to work to make the alternator work.....
Edit - the starters are not interchangeable, the flywheel ring gear is different.
Dave's comment reminds me, I may have that plug kit. If so, I'll get your address and put it in the mail to you.
Edit:
I just finished checking and I seem to have either lost it or sent it on with the last mini in its box of "spares". Sorry.
They're readily available, just google for Lucas alternator plug kit - although they seem to have gone up a bit - $8 now.....
https://www.bpnorthwest.com/alternator-plug-kit.html?gdftrk=gdfV25409_a_7c4396_a_7c16510_a_7cAYB400&gclid=CL_77Kf8h80CFYU2aQodZuQPQA (https://www.bpnorthwest.com/alternator-plug-kit.html?gdftrk=gdfV25409_a_7c4396_a_7c16510_a_7cAYB400&gclid=CL_77Kf8h80CFYU2aQodZuQPQA)
On the starter, you could always do like WillieB did and mount a terminal block.....then take your main cable to it and a #10 wire up to the fuse panel, then a cable with lugs on both ends from that to the starter (Wal Mart has those for $4.)
Here's WillieB's pic....
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=651.0;attach=2735;image)
Then you can extend the red/white wire by making up an extension with a male on one end and female on the other.
Thank you Dave, I ordered the plug and I am going to check at my local Wally World or Radio shack for the jumper.
Just make it, a short length of wire with a male spade connector on one end a female on the other.....
You have to just keep laughing...
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160604_204053_zpsvxpkwhk3.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/th_20160604_203600_zpsdxdvtrjh.mp4) (http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160604_203600_zpsdxdvtrjh.mp4)
I wish I made more headway, 12-14 hour work days are killing me.
The pic and video above is of the rear engine brace mount point, I wondered why my engine rocked so much, everything was, wait for it.... loose!! I had to tighten it all back down during the install. Which is a common theme with this poor truck.
I am slowly working through all the little issues as I put it all back together, it feels like I am wasting a lot of time, but I am happy with how things are turning out so I am willing to spend some time in order to be happy.
So I am up to wiring up the alternator and Starter.
First the Alternator, I looked at it closely today and noticed something amiss.. hopefully the pic shows it.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160611_170517_zpsy6uayh3u.jpg)
It is not aligned at all, the belt is actually reaching back to it, it was too far to the left (looking at pic) and looking down not square with the main pulleys.
I put some spacers to push it back right and put a single washer behind the back mounting bracket in order to push the ass end out but feel I may need to put additional washer back there, it looks like it is still not square.
Spacers:
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160611_191220_zpsgwnexq4t.jpg)
Washers:
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160611_191229_zpsh7xrwe3d.jpg)
I looked over the wiring, Dave mentioned wiring up the light on the dash, I think I have that and I think it is the red male connector that was connected to the old alternator. The brown wire with the yellow connector is the heavy wire, the red male connector was the only other wire on the old alternator.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160611_211712_zpsmzwsk4q1.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160611_211726_zpspgyn4xcw.jpg)
But here is the problem, I have 3 possible connections to the new alternator see below:
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160611_211554_zpsmolbk1fk.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160611_211605_zpslbqpbbjg.jpg)
I have two heavy connections and one small connection. Not sure what goes where.
Anyone with a newer Metro engine care to chime in?
Then the starter, the old starter had one heavy gauge wire. I know we already established that the new one has the solenoid built in. So I need to take some wiring from the old one and move it over to the new one.
No problem. I purchased a heave gauge wire the run over if needed. I am just not sure what other wire I need to pull over there, I am sure it is a trigger wire to initiate the starter.
Solenoid on side wall of car.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160611_211741_zpsoaxtosdv.jpg)
New starter:
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160611_211859_zps02yk5pgg.jpg)
I am trying to get my buddy to install a 12K BTU ductless system in my garage, for now a shitty window unit has to make do. I took advantage of the overcast day today and lower temps to crank up the AC early and cool down the garage. I got it to 82 degrees. I am leaving the window unit running tonight with an optimistic 78 degrees set for the desired temp.
It was at 81 when I left the garage this evening. What sucks is I have to open the front door in the morning and pull the BMW out so the wife can put a table in there to put a coat of urathane on that she is refinishing.
So I may loose some cool tomorrow morning. Heat index is topping 100 already here.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160611_122424_zps36mo7bnm.jpg)
I want to dive into the suspension but want the engine buttoned up first before I move on. So I am staying on the engine for as long as it takes to get it all sorted out.
I have all the parts to build the half shafts too, but all that waits until this engine is 100% installed then I will move on to suspension, bearings, CV joints, brakes and whatever else... if this thing is ready for the road by late August I will be happy. I am missing it greatly but know this time down is worth the wait.
For the alternator:
The big (solid brown) wire from the old one will go to either of the big spades on the new one. The small male connector you called out in your picture (brown wire with yellow trace) will go to the small spade connector on the new alternator.
It is recommended to run another thick wire from the second big spade connector of the new alternator to the same terminal as the other one - usually where the main power from the battery connects to the solenoid.
It is funny how things work out. The AC guy that was supposed to sell me a used 12K BTU ductless system has been MIA. I am not to type to harass people, so I just let it go, he knows I want it and will pay cash for it so the ball is in his court. It has been about a month now I have been waiting to hear back from him.
Yesterday his wife calls, they need an updated copy of the survey I did on their property and they needed it the same day for a house refinance. I could have made them wait a month too, I mean turn around is fair game right? No, I got them the survey that afternoon.
Then I get a text message from him last night that he is digging out the AC unit and he wants to know if we want to install Sunday? I told him not to wreck his weekend lets just try to knock it out one afternoon during the week when he has a light day.
In car related news, I acquired a full set of SAE bolts in countless varieties so I no longer have to keep running to Ace hardware over and over again. Mrs.5543 was not impressed, I was startled by the size of it and have to come up with a solution for storage.
I have had a busy 2 weeks, hope to spend a decent amount of time on it this weekend and get the engine buttoned up. Then move on to the brakes and suspension. Going out into a 98°+ garage is also not appealing either. Hope to get this AC deal done next week.
A bolt bin like I have big enough?
That is the problem, I really do not have room for a huge bolt bin my my home garage. It came with bins, I am working out how to set it up and not take precious room in the garage, I need to purge that damn garage.
And the wife was mad cause you tried putting a bolt bin in the bedroom...
Master bath to be exact.
I picture the toilet paper roll replaced with a bin of shiney 3/8" bolts.
A 12K ductless system - is that a Mini split? If so I doubt 12K will be enough. My window unit is 18K and when it's really hot and humid it barely keeps it cool enough. Of course, I like it around 65*, not 85! ;D
But it's way better than the little 5K unit I had before, that would get it down to about 75* overnight, but one open of the garage door and all was lost........
I've been keeping my shop at 75° with a fan going. Could go lower but trying to keep the electric bill down.
I have a little window unit and it will get the garage down to 82, no ideal but better than 100.
If I can get the garage down to 80 I would be happy. I can always use a box fan to add wind chill. ;D
I saw a Mitsubishi Unit on a house I was surveying and asked the owner if it was for the garage and it was, his was 12K BTU and a 3 car garage. He said it will drop the garage into the 70's if he wanted it to easily and it uses no electricity. He said he never noticed a difference in his electric bill when he ran it all the time.
I am hoping for that.
This winter I am going to insulate the attic over the garage, right now I have an insulated garage door and that helps a lot.
Insulating the attic will make a huge difference....
Yes, Dave, it will, I may break down and try to do it over the summer, maybe on a rainy day?
We are also having a metal roof put on the house we were told the reflective properties of it reduces attic temps greatly as well.
Quote from: 94touring on June 24, 2016, 08:06:11 AM
I've been keeping my shop at 75° with a fan going. Could go lower but trying to keep the electric bill down.
What are your overnight lows? We are staying close to 80 overnight now and then up to 90's with heat index at 100. Humidity is up in the 80's right now.
I purchased a decent size de-humidifier for my house and man what a difference it makes.
Back on topic I hope to have the alternator and starter and coil / dizzy wired up this weekend and also finish up everything underneath the car as well.
Then, as I said, onto the suspension / Brakes / front drive shafts.
Overnight in the 80s and low 90s and humid during the day. I have the bonus of lots of insulation and a metal roof, plus trees that shade the place. I just know when I step outside I'm like damn this is hot.
Pretty much the same up here, humidity has been surprisingly low the last few days, but shot back up again overnight so it's now only low 90's but very muggy.....
OK as pathetic as this is, I have done nothing to the poor truck for 2 weeks or more, life is in the way and I am getting frustrated. I decided over the weekend when I thought I may have time for it and didn't that I was going to spend an hour or two an evening out in the garage getting little things done one at a time so maybe over a few weeks it will be done.
I wired up the alternator this evening, I took my time and it was my only goal. I soldered and shrink wrapped the connections and once I am sure the plug is wired right I will waterproof it as well.
I started on the starter but have one question. See pic of starter:
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20160531_213103_zpsnu3ca7fl.jpg)
I have the power run to it now, and now I need to wire up the trigger. I located it on the solenoid on the side wall but have what appears to be 3 blades I can hook to. Any suggestions?
That is my project for tomorrow night, to get the starter hooked up then hopefully the coil and dizzy. If all goes smooth then I am running the new throttle cable too, which should only take a few minutes.
Then on to the radiator / electric aux fan install.
Those are my goals this week, over the weekend I want to dive under and get the shifter linkage hooked up and make sure the exhaust is all buttoned up too.
Main cable from the battery goes on the big main terminal post (not the big blade), the wire from the ign switch goes on the small blade terminal.
To test it, put the main battery cable on and use a small jumper between it and the small blade terminal, it should crank over...
One small job a day and before long she'll be driving again!
Almost did not go out in the garage last night. Day from hell at work yesterday.
I got home close to 7 PM by the time we finished with dinner it was well after 8 and closing in on 9PM.
I opened up the garage to cool it down from 99° when I got home from work, it down to 92 then I cranked the AC (crappy window unit still, my friends suck and only want me to jump when they need something from me) and got the starter wired up (thanks Dave) and the dizzy wired up too.
Moving on to the cooling system next.
Sounds like you'll be able to fire it up soon. 4.gif
I am still moving very slowly, but with noting going on over the next 3 weekends I hope to maybe have her on the road by the end of September in time for the cooler winter months.
With my POS window unit I was able to keep the garage in the 80-84 range all day today while in there, not totally efficient but works and is much better than 95-99 which is what I typically see there right now. Cooler weather in only 4-6 weeks away, hopefully.
For the warmer months I decided to add an electric fan to the back side of the radiator to help out.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/2005%20JCW/20160828_105333_001_zpsvdkzroko.jpg)
Radiator mounted and you can see how perfect this little electric fan is for the opening.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/2005%20JCW/20160828_143951_zpsh5o3eqdt.jpg)
I was warned by Dan the lower radiator hose is a bitch to get on, I was told to get a bottle of Astroglide as it makes getting the lower hose on as easy as anal.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/2005%20JCW/20160828_150842_zpsnpgb49em.jpg)
I have some super long extensions for moments like this, I can tighten the hose clamp with ease this way.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/2005%20JCW/20160828_150716_zpsozceay5f.jpg)
Sadly, 2 defective hose clamps, one was stripped and would not tighten the other seized up and twisted. So off to Autozone tomorrow.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/2005%20JCW/20160828_145805_zps7caumtuh.jpg)
I am also fighting with the brake lines they are rusted on pretty good and some of the nuts are rounded which is making things very tough. I suspect they are going to eat up much more time than anticipated.
Set the Garage Ac to 85 for when I am not there. Hoping to spend every night this week on it and all next weekend.
Hope to have the engine ready to start midweek then on to the brakes suspension and half shafts..
Engine is in and done outside a couple of little things I need to connect on the underside.
So I am diving into the suspension and brakes now as well as the half shafts. (CV Shafts whatever they are called)
I am trying to drop the swing arm below the Hi-Lo and cone and am having no luck, it is turning into a clusterfuck to say the least even with Dan coaching me along via text messaging I am having a hard time coming to grips with the fact that I am going to have to drill a hole from the inside if the car in order to punch the bolt off the swing arm. I shelved that project and moved onto the brakes.
As mentioned before the brake lines are giving me hell, I bought a set of deep sockets to use and hoped an impact gun on the one nut would be the trick, no luck. More frustration moving away from that for now and on to the Half Shafts.
Things are going well got the old outer CV joint off and ready to put the new one on, it will not slide on and I notice the there is a open wire washed on the shaft that seems to be too open, I decide I am going to take it off and squeeze it smaller. It shoots off and now I cannot find it.
I am guessing it is called a circlip.
I think I found it here.
http://gbcarparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DT-17h8596
(http://gbcarparts.com/prodimages/cvclip.jpg)
I ordered 2 since I figure the other one will be as much as a problem.
So everything I tired to do today turned into a shit show.
And this is why god created Whiskey.
Tomorrow morning I have been summoned to accompany the better half to Ikea for some TV stand shopping then I am back on the car tomorrow afternoon and all day Monday, I am really hoping to get her back on the road by the end of next weekend.
Are you working on the inner or outer CV's? Cause there is a smaller and a larger ring clip in there.....be sure to get the right one in the right place or it won't go back together.....of the two, the inner one is the thin one, the outer is the thick one.
The swing arm thing doesn't sound right. Is it the long shaft that goes through the arm that's giving you trouble? You can use a nut that fits the shaft welded to a piece of round bar to get out as far as the grill area and then hook it to a slide hammer to get it out if it's stuck. Or drive it the other way and cut it off a time or two with a cut off wheel so it doesn't hit the body as you go and just get a new one.
Jeff
He's having issues getting the cone out.
I've never been able to remove the cone without removing the upper arm first.
If you take the two bolts out of the cover plate on the left of that picture, then you can shift the rod toward the front of the car enough to let the swing arm lower and twist a bit. I almost think that egg shaped plate was designed for that reason.
Tim.
But if the arm is seized on the shaft you need to remove it and rebuild it anyway.....it has needle bearings in it and people forget to lube them periodically and they will need to be replaced, along with the shaft.
Quote from: MiniDave on September 03, 2016, 06:54:05 PM
Are you working on the inner or outer CV's? Cause there is a smaller and a larger ring clip in there.....be sure to get the right one in the right place or it won't go back together.....of the two, the inner one is the thin one, the outer is the thick one.
I am doing both the inner and outer my problem arose when I was doing the outer one, I have not even started on the inner. I am hesitent to pull it off because I think the new ones I have are wrong. Pics a little later.
Quote from: jeff10049 on September 03, 2016, 07:00:40 PM
The swing arm thing doesn't sound right. Is it the long shaft that goes through the arm that's giving you trouble? You can use a nut that fits the shaft welded to a piece of round bar to get out as far as the grill area and then hook it to a slide hammer to get it out if it's stuck. Or drive it the other way and cut it off a time or two with a cut off wheel so it doesn't hit the body as you go and just get a new one.
Jeff
I have the back nut off, I was able to get it off by moving the shaft ever so slightly forward. If I am going to have to start making tools I will honestly leave the damn cone in there, I am going to coil overs.
Quote from: Tim on September 04, 2016, 05:41:38 AM
If you take the two bolts out of the cover plate on the left of that picture, then you can shift the rod toward the front of the car enough to let the swing arm lower and twist a bit. I almost think that egg shaped plate was designed for that reason.
Tim.
I am going to give that a shot, fingers crossed it works. If it does not then the cone stays in there.
Quote from: MiniDave on September 04, 2016, 06:09:43 AM
But if the arm is seized on the shaft you need to remove it and rebuild it anyway.....it has needle bearings in it and people forget to lube them periodically and they will need to be replaced, along with the shaft.
The arms moves smooth like silk no binding and no play in it either I was impressed it was in such good shape.
Just walked back in the house from Fort Lauderdale and Ikea, need to run to grocery store for food stuffs now, I am smoking some ribs again. May have to go grab a growler too. ;D Then I am going to spend the evening messing around with her again.
Thanks for the tips.
OK, I assumed you had the plate off already and the shaft was stuck in the arm. With the plate off as Tim described it should come apart just fine. Or at least drop down like Tim said and allow the cone to come out.
Cool, it's getting closer can't wait to see you get it fired up and on the road.
Quote from: jeff10049 on September 04, 2016, 01:22:51 PM
OK, I assumed you had the plate off already and the shaft was stuck in the arm. With the plate off as Tim described it should come apart just fine. Or at least drop down like Tim said and allow the cone to come out.
Cool, it's getting closer can't wait to see you get it fired up and on the road.
Yes so close it hurts when there is a setback.
Here is my issue with the inner joints. I think the question here is obvious. Do I have the wrong part or am I missing something here?
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/Mobile%20Uploads/20160904_171027_zpsjnv3glrh.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/Mobile%20Uploads/20160904_171043_zpskmujgylv.jpg)
You appear to have a broken axle, looks like the stub is stuck in the joint if I'm seeing this right.....
Quote from: MiniDave on September 04, 2016, 02:40:29 PM
You appear to have a broken axle, looks like the stub is stuck in the joint if I'm seeing this right.....
The good news is that stub is in my old engine.
So good news in a way, I need to inderstadn how this goes together, into the shop manuals I go.
But first, round 2 of the effin brake lines begins.
How does that... fit in this...
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/2005%20JCW/20160904_180113_zpsrmdzqn1n.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/2005%20JCW/20160904_180113_zpsrmdzqn1n.jpg.html)
Hopefully you still have the 6 balls that came out of it when you took it off. The boot on it is the wrong one too but it will work. Put the balls in and add cv grease and it slides right in.
Yup have all the balls.. it is remarkable how much variation there is with these cars.
Got the brake line in, starting to think I should have done this with the engine out.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/2005%20JCW/20160904_184744_zpsksits2nl.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/2005%20JCW/20160904_184744_zpsksits2nl.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/2005%20JCW/20160904_184756_zpstfs5xmhm.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/2005%20JCW/20160904_184756_zpstfs5xmhm.jpg.html)
Lol that last pic made me laugh. My last brake line connector you're flipping off gave me so much grief.
Seems the coil over kit is a bit more involved than initially thought. Just dug into it and was a tad bit surprised but releived at the same time. More when I am on an actual keyboard.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/2005%20JCW/20160904_212350_zpsbyclvpeg.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/2005%20JCW/20160904_212350_zpsbyclvpeg.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/2005%20JCW/20160904_212240_zpsy9t7bdbw.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/2005%20JCW/20160904_212240_zpsy9t7bdbw.jpg.html)
I'll be interested to hear what you think of these as I was going to order some too.....did you get standard height or lowered?
I like to use something like the red bearing grease to hold the balls in place as the cv grease is often to thin then fill the rest of the boot with the proper cv grease. That pot part of the joint also comes out of the transmission if you want to assemble it on the bench and then put it in. It has one of those spring clips on it.
Fukitall...
It may be weeks before I approach this truck again.
What was supposed to be a simple exchange has turned into a big deal.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/2005%20JCW/20160905_195702_zpsaqels70a.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/2005%20JCW/20160905_195702_zpsaqels70a.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/2005%20JCW/20160905_195854_zpsy8iss2uz.jpg)
2 bolts on the drivers side (RHD) have snapped. Fuckit I need a break.
Ship it to me lol
Or buy me a plane ticket and I'll come down and fix it.....
Both of you calm down and get you mitts off it. ;D
I will get this sorted out, just hoped to make more headway over the 3 day weekend and I feel like all I did was make more of a mess.
I have some ideas how to make this work. I was going to have to drill some holes anyway as the new brackets require 6 holes with 2 new ones above the 4 on there. I am just going to drill them out and use some beefier bolts to hold it in there with a backing plate on the other side. I hope otherwise some large washers at the very least where I can fit them.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/Mobile%20Uploads/20160906_133012_zpszbughzvy.jpg)
To make Jim feel better I sent a pic of a car I'm working on.
Is that the other local car?
Not Rusty the Clubby then......
Okc mini that Patton has.
I thought it might be....even worse than the other one?
Yeah requires a whole front end among many other things.
I am sitting here debating pulling the engine back out getting the brakes and suspension done then dropping it back in. I am pretty sure I could have it out in an hour or less now.
Then I would have room to work on the things I should have done while it was out. I had no idea these items would be so hard to reach with the engine in.
In the long run that probably is going to be easier. Pulling and dropping in motors is pretty painless.
Dropping Subframe with Engine inside would be the best of both. Less engine stuff to take apart= but All the suspension access for replacement and repair.
I agree with Jedduh, drop them both, then you can get at everything you need to do easily, and going back in is a doddle.....plus if you want it's a perfect time to have the subframe powder coated or painted.
This winter I'll be pulling the engine on the green Mini to change the final drive and one thing I will definitely do is wrap the header, it takes all of the exhaust system heat out of the engine compartment, no more burning your arms or fingers when reaching in back of the engine for something, and no more hot bulkhead and floors. I bought a kit off Ebay for like $25, it has enough to do 2 cars or to wrap all the way back to the front muffler if you want..
Finally diving back into this thing over the last couple of weeks. I have the front brake lines finished. I did not have to pull the engine either, once I realized the solution I laughed at myself.
2 quick questions:
1. the CV shafts, I am trying to slide the outer hub on and cannot get it to go over the keeper c ring. Is there a trick to this? Or a tool I need?
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/2005%20JCW/20161029_133432_zpswfisswvy.jpg)
2. The inner joint, what style is this and can I order a replacement? I ordered what I thought were the correct inner joints and they are wrong.
This is what the old and correct one looks like.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/2005%20JCW/20161029_133514_zpsbt1gyl7i.jpg)
I am slowly getting the coil overs in, after some fab work I should have them in this week then if I can get these shafts done the front of the car is done, then on to the real coil overs. Pushing hard to get her finished up.
The brake line solution.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/2005%20JCW/20161023_174030_zpshpsh8bpm.jpg)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/2005%20JCW/20161023_174255_zpsr2ycwnra.jpg)
If the entire axle shaft is out of the car, I start the outer joint onto the shaft, then turn it over and give it a good pop on the floor (on a board of course) usually they pop right on that way......
The joint in question is the inner half of a "pot joint". The outer half is likely still on the output shaft of the differential.
Here is what a complete one looks like: (link (http://www.7ent.com/products/cv-pot-joint-inboard-aftermarket-gcv1102.html)
The small shaft goes into the differential and the drive shaft inserts into the boot end.
The inner part in your picture pops off much like the outer CV.
If anyone crosses paths with this Skip fellow that is a renowned Mini guy, and owned this Pickup for years before I purchased it off Playle, punch him in the nose for me and tell him I said that he should not be allowed near Mini's and should be relegated to owning Toyota Avalons.
Thank you.
Jim,
I've wanted to do that for you for a long time now. Skip seems to have dropped out of the Mini community. I've heard he sold off the other Minis he owned as well.
I pity any person that purchased a car he has touched.
Hope to have her back on the street by the end of the month. She is finally back on 4 wheels. I need to adjust the front right coil over it is 1/2" too high vs. the left. I need to get a punch out list together lots of little things now need to be done all the major crap is done.
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars/n-jSbL3k/i-2w5HPGK/0/a48b320e/X4/i-2w5HPGK-X4.jpg)
If anyone following this thread is interested I am seriously considering selling this.
Asking Price will be $13,000 firm when I list for sale, an RM member can grab it 12K. It will be a true bring a trailer deal, will include a bed full of spare parts and a spare 1275 engine / transmission that needs rebuilding.
My life has changed so much these last 2 years I do not have time for time consuming hobbies like this anymore. I never anticipated the economy would take off like this.
My loss is your gain.
PM me here or email me it is my user name at gmail dot com.
I will advertise it next week, giving the RM guys first dibs.
What all does it need to be back on the road?
Also, since the photo bucket fiasco all your photos in this thread are gone, would you mind posting up some - I have a friend who may be interested.
During our morning 3 mile walk of the dog, my wife and I spoke about this sale at length.
I explained to her my family time is more important to me right now than playing car, business takes up too much time, so I am putting car projects on back burner for a while.
She suggested combining time with the younger son with working on the Pickup.
So that is now the plan, I may still sell it, but not until I have it back on the road. The kid and I are going to spend a couple of nights a week in the garage wrenching on it and getting it finished.
I am just pissed at this truck it is a very neglected Truck that I am having to put way more work into than ever anticipated. Every time I dig into it I find some more half assed bullshit that has to be redone and made right.
I pity that poor guy that bought Skips supercharged wagon on BAT for top $$ I am pretty sure that seller was unloading a turd too. At least I got mine relatively cheap all things considered.
Aha, I see the connection now.....
But, FWIW, every Mini I've bought or owned needed more work than I ever anticipated....nature of the breed I think!
I think it's a smart idea putting family time and wrenching time together. Good luck with the trucklette!
Quote from: Jims5543 on March 10, 2019, 05:35:20 PM
During our morning 3 mile walk of the dog, my wife and I spoke about this sale at length.
I explained to her my family time is more important to me right now than playing car, business takes up too much time, so I am putting car projects on back burner for a while.
She suggested combining time with the younger son with working on the Pickup.
So that is now the plan, I may still sell it, but not until I have it back on the road. The kid and I are going to spend a couple of nights a week in the garage wrenching on it and getting it finished.
I am just pissed at this truck it is a very neglected Truck that I am having to put way more work into than ever anticipated. Every time I dig into it I find some more half assed bullshit that has to be redone and made right.
I pity that poor guy that bought Skips supercharged wagon on BAT for top $$ I am pretty sure that seller was unloading a turd too. At least I got mine relatively cheap all things considered.
Congratulations to you and your wife. A father son/daughter project he will remember for a lifetime. When my daughter turned 15, she found an MGB she wanted, so together we spent the winter spare time restoring it and finally got it on the road for her 16th birthday and driver's license.
One of my grandsons spent a lot of time with me since he was born. At 2 he began helping me with the Corvair. By 6 he was a real help. Some day the car will be his.
Hey Richard, good to hear from you again!
Have you been driving your Pup?
4.gif great plan Jim.
Well...
Off to a good home then.....
Jim's idea was a good one, too bad it didn't pan out.
My daughter and I spent the summer before her sophomore year at college rebuilding a VW bug at my house in Sandy Eggo, then drove it over 5K miles to her college in Savannah, Ga, with stops at the Grand Canyon, Denver, Ft. Collins, Dallas, New Orleans and Jacksonville along the way. The only repairs we had to make on the whole trip was when we had to remove the gas tank in the motel parking lot in Jacksonville to replace a 3" long piece of fuel line that had let go.
So did you buy it Dan? I was wondering about the status of it recently.
Yeah the original plan was once my pickup shell was gone, that money would buy Jim's truck. Jim was reluctant to sell so it took some time to persuade him. A quick looking over it the body is very nice. Few tiny rust bubbles here and there but nothing serious or needs immediate attention. Floors and bed aren't rotten and body is ding free. Mechanically I found a couple things right off the bat. Rear brakes are junk, right swing arm is loosey goosey, and front brake systems need some going through.
Not to mention getting it running again? ::)
Radiator, carbs, and headers need to go back on.
Glad you got the deal done. Another project when time allows.
Yeah it will be a bit. I have 2 customer cars left till I'm "retired" and can just work on my own stuff.
Unloaded it into the shop today. Debating if I want to drop the rear subframe this week to determine what all I need to order. 8.gif
Not that it really matters or anything, but why the Uhaul trailer? I didn't really notice until this last pic that has your trailer sitting in the background LOL
Quote from: cstudep on October 22, 2022, 02:19:32 PM
Not that it really matters or anything, but why the Uhaul trailer? I didn't really notice until this last pic that has your trailer sitting in the background LOL
Jim didn't want me driving my trailer there and back. He was also kind enough to buy the trailer rental. Originally he was going to meet me in Alabama saving me about 2 days of driving (west palm is fucking far from tulsa), but Jen and our friends group were going to make a mini vacation out of it at Universal. Then a hurricane hit and our friends cancelled. So I drove the whole way which I felt better about anyway since it was mid work week for Jim. We met up at his office, had lunch and a beer, then got the trailer, went to his shop, loaded up, and away I went. Basically drove 42 hours straight with 2 overnight naps in my pickup truck.
Also that trailer has brakes. Which makes me want to add them to my trailer. It was a noticeable difference in stopping distance.
Good story! Didn't realize you had to go that far to get it but it is a pretty nice looking truck.
Electric brakes are pretty easy to add to a trailer axle if you really want to do it and not all that expensive really. You just have to buy the correct size to go with whatever axle you have (guessing you need 10" for 3500lb axle). The good thing about trailers is the parts are pretty well established and mostly "universal". I recently had to rip all the brake parts off my old car trailer as they were non functional and non-repairable. I bought complete new replacements for both axles (originally only had them on one axle) for around 250 bucks at the time. Still need to install them though.
Even brakes on just one axle (that is how they used to do it way back when) is better than none at all.
Jim and I go back over 20 years. We were rx7 buddies well before minis. And we also were/are land surveyors.
Nice! I am sure it was good to sit down and have a beer and a meal with an old friend.
Dug in deep today and found some ugly. On a positive note all the ugly is limited to the rear area. All but 1 subframe bolt snapped when trying to drop the subframe. Both sides of the attach panel are toast. Whoever did the restore back in the day used oversills, which trapped water and did a good job rotting things in the back corners. They also used a lot of silicon or caulk but no actual paint, but sprayed on a bed liner type material. So what I have is a load floor with a bunch of crusty silicon and surface rust when you peel the silicon off. The load floor itself is just fine and will clean up, one rot spot that needs a 4x4 inch patch. The rear wheel arches are mostly solid but have some rot in spots and because of the silicon/no paint has some not so good looking rusty crusty thing going on where it adjoins to the load bed. I decided since each have some spots of rot to just replace them. I can clean up where they adjoin to the load floor and have peace of mind knowing it's solid. Also on that same note I ordered a new load floor cross member. Even though this one is "ok" there's a few spots that are on their last legs. Also with the silicon around all edges there's more surface rust. My concern is what exposed metal is behind the cross member I can't see that will eventually let the load floor rot. Plus with the studs busted off in the cross member it would be royal hell getting those out. I can just pop this one out, clean the load floor, seal, paint, and spot weld on a new cross member. So...a little rear end restoration required. The subframe however looks like it was brand new, just dirty. I'm ditching whatever garbage camber brackets are on there and will used a fixed negative camber bracket. Same with the front lower arms. Just something to get it out of positive camber. Jim has a brand new set of coilovers that are going on. If I don't like them I can toss cones back in. He also has a brand new rear disc kit, which is what I run on my blue mini. He had also bought brand new rear spacers drums, pads, and cylinders, so if anyone would like to buy those they're for sale. Dave got a brand new 8.4 caliper and disc kit Jim purchased as well out of the deal as I'm going 7.5 to run my 10s.
Dug further and I'm glad I ordered the cross member for the load floor, this one pic is the inside of it, busted bolt showing. I chiseled out an arch and found where they double layered. I ordered a couple more things including the surround load floor to the arches since it's pretty cobbled up. The one patch I needed to make will be included with the one surround patch panel too.
Well nobody can accuse you of being afraid to cut stuff up ;D
Ha, well had I not needed to drop the subframe I would have just driven it as is. The good thing is I can just slap it all back together fairly quickly. Depending how I do for time tomorrow with roof paint jobs I'd like to chisel off the cross member to start cleaning up the load floor. To get things aligned before welding it back together I'll mount the subframe attach panel ends and the cross member subframe attach piece to the subframe without the swing arms temporarily.
It's official, the Skip guy who did this truck up didn't know what he was doing. More double layers of crap hidden. The cross member where the seats attach are custom made and I'm debating removing them. So far this is what has fallen off as I chisel my way around.
The crossmember isn't dimensionally correct and must have been made specifically for these seats since they are a bit tall. They also weigh a ton and my other low back mini seats will replace them. I will order a new crossmember. It appears he replaced the floors in 2 halves or perhaps 4 sections of floor pans. Aside from the back corners where water collected they are solid. Unfortunately he layed them overtop of the old inner sills. Given how much surface rust accumulated on the inner sills with the oversills and the double layering, I'm probably going to add replacement inner sills to an order and then cut out this pancake of rust situation. I'll end up doing a lower side replacement panel from the front of the rear wheel arch to front of the lower door frame to be able to access what I need. The door frame is rust free from the inside but the lower rear quarter panel area isn't great and has over a quarter inch of body filler where he couldn't weld. It will allow me to fix up the subframe attach panels where they affix to the inner sill and stiffener panel. I began to chisel out the load bed frame but stopped halfway through. The load frame definitely needed replaced, but what I'm discovering is it's going to be more work than it's worth. Instead of chiseling these out, having countless spot weld holes to clean up, fixing or accepting a bent up load floor that's been well used, cleaning the bottom up, welding full length side repair sections around the arches...well to hell with that I'll replace the bed and it will save time and be better. He also did some wierd crap with the floor tunnel. Custom made so it's wide and boxy for a section. I'm not sure why he did that. I'm leaving it there. I took out all this vinyl covering he had in the cab. I was a bit worried it was covering some nasty rust or something, but it was just covering fabric sound deadening. He had tons of it inside various places. The floors had a layer of the dynomat deadening. I removed a few areas with the chisel to inspect for rust but none to be found luckily. I was going to respray this in red or perhaps a nightfire red to mix it up since I'm quickly owning cars that are solid red. But with the extend of what I'm doing I do believe I'm going to resort to what my plans were for my other pickup, which is tangerine orange.
Some pics. First one is layers of inner sills with the stiffiner panel being on the outside.
100lbs of Bondo over the whole Pup? That and the 100 lb seats means you'll be getting some weight off of it! ;D
Just bondo on those lower rear quarters luckily! I should weigh the seats! Thought the first one was hung up on something when I was pulling it out, but it was just that heavy!
Well some not great news in panel news. I had emailed and gotten nothing back from M-machine, so called to place an order for the load bed skin. Have been waiting for a quote for over a week. Emailed and nothing. So went to Somerford to get a quote and got into a short convo with the person working there and apparently M-Machine hasn't sent them any large panels, including these load beds for 18 months. Said don't hold my breath! So...probably going back to plan A and just cleaning up and will have to make a few patches where the cross member being chiseled off is created some larger than anticipated holes. There's one bed rib that's looking pretty rough where it was used as a work vehicle that I'll need to get my metal brake out to fab up something to fix that section up.
Fantastic turn of events today. A van load floor became available through Somerford, so I jumped on it. I've been looking everywhere and they simply aren't available. The only difference between the van and pickup is the pickup has the holes cut for the tailgate hinges, which I can easily do myself. Pete over there said some guy bought it but then decided he didn't need it. Shipping of course will be astronomical.
Looks like 5 days from when I placed my order till these panels arrive via Dhl from Somerford. Customs fees came on to $47. Not bad!
So this is what I have in mind for the truck. Going to do that tangerine kandy orange and have a pressed grill that I can make detachable. Thinking maybe go with a narrow steel wheel and forgo the flares. Maybe these wheels. Roof will be a slight off-white that it currently is. I have my old seats from my blue mini that are black with off white centers, which also matches with the white gauges.
I like the color.
Is this Pup RHD or LHD?
It's Rhd.
Panels arrived today according to DHL. I'll have to snap a pic of everything once I get home. Work extended me another day and I've already been out about 20 days! One thing I'm trying to determine in my head is how the load bed fits past the side and rear corners. I think the bed is wider than they are at the top, plus it extends past the rear cab bulkhead. I am guessing it's going to be tricky. My other pickup I bought it in halves and they went in no problem. Suppose worse case I cut it in half and weld it back up once its in place. :017:
I love those steel wheels. Without the flares will look great.
I think so too. I have my old 6x10 mini lights and the flares for them but mixing it up to steel wheels and pressed grill seems like a good idea. Also I accidentally posted reverse steels wheels which have the incorrect offset, I'll be using the standard 36mm offset so they don't stick out too far.
Yeah I like the steel wheels. I have them on my car, found 5 - 4.5x10 mini lights for fairly cheap a few years back and bought them thinking I would swap them out onto my car. Bought new tires, got them all installed, put them on the car and didn't care for the look so I put the steel back on.
Still need to swap the new tires to my steel wheels though because the others are pretty much shot.
Came home to boxes of panels and one HUGE load bed box.
Now, you just need to be home long enough to do something with them! :great:
Yeah we've been abnormally busy. Just did 20 something days on the road/sky.
Now to find time20221125_093927.jpg
You got all that sheet metal shipped for $100????
What a project.....it's like a giant jigsaw puzzle. :grin:
I wouldn't know where to begin......
I wish it was 100! Turned expensive really quick. I had to work almost the whole month to recover these panels and whatever my bus transaxle may end up costing. Hurts to think about.
Played around with some test fitments.