Restoration-Mini

Technical Forums => Restorations => Topic started by: Mudhen on March 13, 2012, 12:12:22 PM

Title: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on March 13, 2012, 12:12:22 PM
I guess I should start an official thread before 94 kicks me out...so, as scary as it is making big claims that I'm going to build a rally Mini, here goes.

As a little background - I've been wanting to build some sort of historic rally car for awhile now.  The requirements were that it was at least 25 years old (per the rally regs), was pretty rough to begin with (didn't want to hack up a nice old car - wanted to build it back up/save it), and it had to be IMO really cool and unique.  The last point is due to the fact that with 3 little kids, little extra cash laying around, and the cost of getting to and entering rallies, the car will most likely spend the vast majority of its life at car shows - hopefully a family thing more than a me-going-racing thing I guess.

So what to use - I have a '65 'S' that I've owned for 25 years...but I think they're too rare to trash at this point.  I had an '83 GTI that would have been almost ideal - but was pretty nice and not different enough to take to car shows.  I looked online at BMW 2002s, Porsche 912s, a Volvo 544, etc.  Then a couple weeks ago my oldest son said, 'pup, why don't you just get another Mini'.  Made a lot of sense...I have a lot of parts laying around already....I know more about them than any other car (which still isn't a lot, actually), and having a rally Mini has been a dream of mine for what seems like forever.  Problem is they've gotten expensive since I bought my last one in 1987!!  But a quick search on Craigslist and this peach of a car turned up in western TN (wondering if anyone here ever saw it before):

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/1980Mini/i-PqKJSvq/0/M/1-L.jpg)

Supposedly it was a 1980 that someone had chopped the top off to turn into a convertible but couldn't complete.  The guy I bought it off welded a top back onto it.  It appears to  have an 1100cc motor that isn't together - and according to the seller it will need a sleeve as one of the cylinders is damaged (can they be sleeved?).  He was asking $1400, which coincidentally was the same amount I sold my GTI for....except $800 in shipping to Maine was going to be a deal breaker.  So he kept the seats, a couple replacement doors, and the speedometer and let me have it for $1k.  Most of that stuff I wouldn't need anyway or will source over time - getting the shell was the big part.

A couple other pics:

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/1980Mini/i-5vn9b5S/0/M/S6301989-L.jpg)

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/1980Mini/i-tGGnqRb/0/M/S6302051-L.jpg)

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/1980Mini/i-3Rprdmn/0/M/S6302054-L.jpg)

Overall I'm psyched to have it.  I just hope I can keep some sort of momentum up and not let it sit in a corner too long.  I've done quite a bit with my old '65 'S' over time but never anything this huge - hopefully I won't be on here too much throwing up the old,  9.gif sign.  Tips, hints, 'DON'T DO THAT YOU IDIOT', suggestions, etc greatly appreciated.  I'm still torn as to which way to head with the car - retro look, with 10" wheels, etc...or build only with a focus on making it a better rally car - like the 1994 Monte car...

Bombs away.

Pat
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: 94touring on March 13, 2012, 12:31:44 PM
I have seen this car!  Interesting history on it.  Sounds like you have a good car for what you're trying to do.  Any idea what panels you're needing to replace?  The tunnel on the floor looks good from that one photo, are the rest of the floors solid? 
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on March 13, 2012, 01:09:50 PM
Quote from: 94touring on March 13, 2012, 12:31:44 PM
I have seen this car!  Interesting history on it.  Sounds like you have a good car for what you're trying to do.  Any idea what panels you're needing to replace?  The tunnel on the floor looks good from that one photo, are the rest of the floors solid?

Already pushing me to get going on it?  It hasn't been 5 years yet!   20.gif

So far the floors look great.  I'm thinking maybe it spent a lot of time in the south, so didn't get totally rusted out.  The absolute worst part is the headlights...looks like someone wanted to put eyebrows on the thing so cut the fenders just above the lights and hit them in.  ARGH!!!!!

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniStripDown/i-2h8TB6z/1/M/IMG4227-L.jpg)

Some more pics as the strip down continues:

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniStripDown/i-Kdz6sq5/0/M/IMG4216-L.jpg)

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniStripDown/i-jmKL2nH/1/M/IMG4225-L.jpg)

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniStripDown/i-HMgbKXt/0/M/IMG4223-L.jpg)

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniStripDown/i-vP5W5Sw/0/M/IMG4221-L.jpg)

Pretty much ready now to get the subframes out.  Picking up the steel for the rotisserie tomorrow.

Pat
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: 94touring on March 13, 2012, 01:26:36 PM
Minus the hacked up wings, doesn't look half bad.  The roof re install must have gone well too. 
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on March 19, 2012, 02:00:58 AM
A little progress.  Rear subframe is out:

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniStripDown/i-rBP7KNt/0/M/IMG4231-M.jpg)

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniStripDown/i-hd8BXnK/0/M/IMG4229-M.jpg)

And front subframe/engine, too:

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniStripDown/i-dGf2mkN/0/M/IMG4232-M.jpg)

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniStripDown/i-nqRH9Zv/1/M/IMG4234-M.jpg)

So which way do you guys prefer to take the engine out - up, or down with the subframe?  I've taken the engine out of my '65 3 times - always from the top.  This was the first time attempting lifting the body instead...didn't care for it too much.  Seemed like I had to lift the body REALLY high to clear the engine...too high for my comfort level, anyway.

So does the engine stabilize itself?  Seems like I need to keep something under the front to hold it up?  Of course, could be because the PO had some of the mounts/stablizers off already.

Hopefully get the rotisserie built next weekend and get it up on it.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: 94touring on March 19, 2012, 03:27:02 AM
Getting right to work I see.  The engine will flop around on the subby, that's normal.   I lifted the car off the subby too which does require some height.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on March 23, 2012, 02:05:41 PM
I started thinking about those wings...thought I might be able to bang out the curled over edges and just weld up any cracks.  Started poking around this morning - looks like what they actually did was to chop the top off the wing from the top headlight edge, back about a foot or so...then slid that piece forward to create the 'brow' over the light.  Then they tack welded a few pieces of metal in to fill the hole they'd created and bondo'd it all up.

ARGH.

Here's how it looks from inside the wing:

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniStripDown/i-xMst9x9/0/M/IMG4238-M.jpg)

Wonder if I can just pop that metal out, slide the original piece back into place and weld it back up.  Probably just get a new wing.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: 94touring on March 23, 2012, 10:04:08 PM
Haha yeah that is interesting whatever they were trying to do. 
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on April 06, 2012, 11:55:06 AM
Finally got to take it for a spin!!!

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniStripDown/i-FH5h9tn/1/L/IMG4248-L.jpg)

So, that took longer than expected...still need to drill the holes and weld on the nuts (gotta remember to stop saying that - my 10yo gets the biggest kick out of it) so I can lock it in position, but it's almost there.

Front mount:

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniStripDown/i-MXtRrFL/0/L/IMG4249-L.jpg)

Rear mount:

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniStripDown/i-mWscpMN/0/L/IMG4250-L.jpg)

I was going to set it up there as a test, then take it down to paint it.  But what a struggle I had getting it on...think it may get painted once the car comes off.   ::)
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on April 12, 2012, 10:42:28 AM
Spent a few hours this morning degreasing the Mini...yowza.  Didn't think it was that crappy - doesn't anyone wash the underside of their car anymore?   :D

Remembered the camera halfway through the engine bay - so made for a good before/after pic:

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniStripDown/i-BqF6hCz/0/M/IMG4256-M.jpg)

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniStripDown/i-JQq33vG/0/M/IMG4259-M.jpg)

You could eat off the tunnel now...not sure why you would of course...

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniStripDown/i-5nVJCVm/0/M/IMG4258-M.jpg)

Now I need to go out and sink an anchor in my garage floor to try to winch the thing back inside before my wife gets home...it just doesn't like to roll in crushed stone.   ::)

Any of you guys use aftermarket wings, like those from MiniSport??

http://www.minisport-usa.com/mini-spare-parts/info_08-01-230.html (http://www.minisport-usa.com/mini-spare-parts/info_08-01-230.html)

$69?!?!  Just what the doctored ordered...but curious if they fit ok or is it worth splurging on real ones?
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: MiniGene on April 12, 2012, 06:22:57 PM
I don't know about the wings but that undersside looks clean AND in great shape.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on June 23, 2012, 02:03:12 PM
Just wanted to post some updated pics...think I have all the pieces cut out that require full panels - both outer sills, both wings, and the rear valence and closing panels.  It looks like I wasn't the first one in here - some of the panels weren't just spot welded but had a mix of seam welds and other generic metal melted on them.

I went to great pains to salvage the right wing the PO had sent me....think I'm going to regret it.  There isn't a straight spot on the thing, but I needed the top section where the wing, inner panel, and hood all meet so I used it.  You can see here where I cut the old top piece off - no clue how I'm going to get everything to line up afterwards - the hood wasn't all that straight either!
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniStripDown/i-JHxTMWV/0/L/P1040077-L.jpg)

Left side:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniStripDown/i-rbHTVzc/0/L/P1040078-L.jpg)

Sills:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniStripDown/i-DGL7d5T/0/L/P1040075-L.jpg)
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniStripDown/i-RStPGcm/0/L/P1040079-L.jpg)

Rear:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniStripDown/i-7CZDBjF/1/L/P1040076-L.jpg)

I don't plan on using the jacking points...thinking I'll close off the holes in the outer sills to keep the junk out.  And I'd like to fab up some jack stand mounts on the sides before I put the outer sill pieces back on, but I'm not sure how deep they have to be - don't want them to interfere with the cage.  Might just have to do them later.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on July 02, 2012, 01:02:10 PM
So after spending 3 million hours scraping seam sealer off this thing I'm wondering about the next steps.  I have to seam weld it to try to keep the body together with the pounding it will take...so can I sandblast along all the seams and then then weld?  A long time ago I'd read about people, 'splitting the seams, cleaning the seam sealer out, then seam welding' - seriously?  Holy crap that would take forever...and I'm not Team Subaru that wants a 400hp car to last 10 rally's a year for 5 years...

What about where 2 panels come together that have surface rust on them?  Is it good enough to sandblast it and sandblast as much in between the seams as possible?  Isn't there hidden rust between the panels still?

Thinking when I do my 'S' I just may have it dipped...there's a place in Mass I spoke with and it would be about $1k.  Wonder if it's worth it?
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: 94touring on July 03, 2012, 11:34:51 AM
You'd probably have to break every seam on the car if you wanted absolute zero rust.  Clean what you can and fix any rot and probably good to go!
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on July 03, 2012, 12:05:49 PM
Quote from: 94touring on July 03, 2012, 11:34:51 AM
You'd probably have to break every seam on the car if you wanted absolute zero rust.  Clean what you can and fix any rot and probably good to go!

I like that.

Now I'm learning how these things go together I'm thinking next time I'll just pick up a Heritage shell and be done with it.  This is kind of silly.   :D
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: 94touring on July 03, 2012, 06:43:34 PM
You saw how much metal I replaced on my truck!  Its easier to tell people what I didn't replace.  ;D.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on July 17, 2012, 05:18:59 AM
What are the threaded holes in the front of the sills for???  Was thinking about chopping them out along with the jacking points so it's all nice and open in there for sandblasting...but can't for the life of me figure out what they'd be used for.

Picked up a copy of, 'The Last Works Minis' to use as my build guide - yowza.  Hydraulic e-brake, brake proportioning valve in reach of the driver, several more crossmembers welded across the rear floor, extra metal welded all over the place actually...etc, etc, etc.

Street car would be nice.   22.gif
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: 94touring on July 17, 2012, 07:07:39 AM
Pic of said threaded holes?  I can't place it in my head.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on July 17, 2012, 07:32:01 AM
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniStripDown/i-mjmXDjK/0/L/smugshot4354344-L.jpg)

It's the hole/bracket up front near the wheel well opening - looking at the new outer sill piece there's a really small hole near that spot but not in the same place.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: 94touring on July 17, 2012, 10:20:07 AM
Oh that thing...yeah I dunno either.  Maybe Nick will chime in.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Nicholasupton on July 19, 2012, 08:58:58 AM
They are leftover from the manufacturing process called a sling shoe, Typically removed when doing a restoration(they often fall out during sill removal) The bracket portion should remain as it reinforced the outer sill, as does the jacking point.

Quote from sommerford

Slinging shoes were used to move bodies around the factory, prior to fitment of wheels and running gear. Each shoe fitted into a bracket under the floor, and was secured b y a nut in the sill, into which a bolt on the shoe was threaded. The nut brackets also act as reinforcements between the outer and inner sills, so they should be retained or replaced if work is done in that area. Moreover, no slinging shoe brackets under the floor is a telltale of a car that's been fitted with new sills and/or has undergone major floor repairs. Fitting new brackets once the floor and sill work is done makes the car look correct again.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on September 25, 2012, 05:29:40 PM
Awesome info - thanks Nick!!  So cool to learn the history of all those little things that most people don't know about.  I love it.

I put a little more work into the old girl the past couple of days.  Had yesterday and today off because the wife was traveling so someone had to be home to get the kids to/from school.  Had high hopes yesterday...'I can spend all day sandblasting...really bust it out'.  ARGH!!!!  Could NOT get my sandblaster to work.  Dumping sand out with no pressure, and jam after jam after jam, each time having to painfully unscrew the nozzle and clear it.  I ended up putting an ad on Craigslist to sell my compressor.  If I need 15cfm, I need 15cfm...

Then I stumbled on a posting of complaints about the Eastwood sandblaster.  Hmmm...maybe I need a 'Brut' sandblaster instead.  Wait...someone said you need 80 grit sand - my local shop has 'extra fine' I'll try that.

WOW!!!!  My compressor AND my sandblaster work!!!   :-[

So I blasted just the portions I would need to get the rear valence done - just as a trial run.  Also blasted and stitch welded the seam around one of the rear inner fender wells and banged out the dented-in spare tire well (like that won't just get slammed in again!   :D ).  Then I did two coats of POR...even got to use my air punch tool to make the holes for spot welding in the new panels.  The closing pieces and valence need a little tweaking still...but this is the section prepped:

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-XCgnxbc/0/L/smugshot1510067-L.jpg)

Was thinking I'd go section by section blasting the rust, roughing up the non-rusted pieces, then priming with POR.  Then some sort of body colored top coat?

Think 1" or so stitch welds will be enough for rally work...or should I do a lot more or complete seam welding?  And also how many spot welds should be done for something like the valence - thought I remembered someone saying every inch or so for those, too...

Thanks guys.

Pat
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on September 26, 2012, 10:12:14 AM
Tacked the rear valence and closing panels in this morning (first panels!  I need practice...):

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-73DXwqw/0/L/smugshot3469491-L.jpg)

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-Lh46xxs/0/L/smugshot7647011-L.jpg)

Baby steps.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: 94touring on September 28, 2012, 05:25:03 AM
Nice.  Every little bit feels good. 
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on September 28, 2012, 02:39:50 PM
Missed out on a pair of carbon fiber doors yesterday due to an eBay glitch.  Winning bidder might not take them do I may get another shot.  She'll be wicked fast with those!!!  :D

Also saw in the Works book that they fully welded the inner wheel wells, not stitched.  Guess I'll follow suit, even though the welding isn't going so smooth with the gap between the panels and the seam sealer still in there...doesn't look so nice...
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: 94touring on September 30, 2012, 07:57:55 AM
I'm going with some fibrerglass doors on the pickup.  Can't wait to see what the weight savings is going to be. 
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on December 13, 2012, 01:25:59 PM
Had big plans to get a bunch of stuff done on the Mini the past couple weeks, as I'm leaving one job, starting another on Monday.  Argh.  I need to stop planning so much - Mr. Murphy always loves to jump in when I do that.  Sick kid a couple days, blew a valve out of my sandblaster, ran out of gas for the MIG.  Too much running around!!!!

I did manage to get some stuff done, though.

Most of the seam welding is done now...ouch.  That sucked.  To prep for it I scraped all the seam sealer off...and then sandblasted each seam.  Trouble was there was still seam sealer in between that I couldn't remove...and some of the panels had fairly large gaps that wouldn't beat in.  So the welding was frustrating - lots of popping, spatter, etc.  Here's a pic of one - the clean spots are areas I couldn't weld:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-BXN3K7x/0/L/smugshot_6956126-L.jpg)

I really wanted to get the sills closed up and the wings on - but the more I played with fitting them the more little things I found needed to be done first.  On the left side some of the door step was rotted away...been carting one of those around with me for 25 years...unfortunately, it looks like it doesn't quite match up - the outer lip is a lot narrower than mine - think it will work, though:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-6Xd287G/0/L/smugshot_4240593-L.jpg)

On the right side the lower part of the wheel well was open into the sill:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-35CTJWn/0/L/smugshot_2355805-L.jpg)

So that got a little patch:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-Fnt4cnC/0/L/smugshot_1580518-L.jpg)

It was rotten behind the jacking point (picture looks strange...that's because you're looking through to the inside of the x-member - which looks absolutely perfect, whew):
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-6Xjzv7d/0/L/smugshot_5066197-L.jpg)

The jacking points killed me, too.  PITA!  I should have just bought new ones, I guess.  Fun to fab up something, though - fun, like a kick in the groin kind of fun:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-nCj4shg/0/L/smugshot_8622771-L.jpg)
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-bbTNVkr/0/L/smugshot_3733323-L.jpg)

For the wings I figured I should do the inner scuttle closing panels first...of course, it wasn't that easy because there was rot around one of the (fresh air?) openings from the wheel well into the car, which is behind the scuttle panel:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-9fk2BH8/0/L/smugshot_9217493-L.jpg)
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-PwrRpfX/0/L/smugshot_7520674-L.jpg)

All the little patches just seem to eat time...next time I buy a car site unseen I'm going to look it over better.  :D

Now HOPEFULLY tomorrow I can do what I set out to do at the beginning of the week...sandblast the seam welds to clean them up, sandblast the scuttle areas, and POR those areas and the sills...maybe this weekend get the sills closed up!!

Oh - question - the new sills have a tab that looks like it hooks up into the wheel well...is that right?  Think I'm going to chop it off...doesn't seem like it would be right to have that over the other metal there...

Pat
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: 94touring on December 13, 2012, 05:36:56 PM
Nice to see you getting back at it.  I'm trying to picture what you have extra on the cill that hooks into the wheel well, any pics?
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on December 14, 2012, 06:37:28 AM
Quote from: 94touring on December 13, 2012, 05:36:56 PM
Nice to see you getting back at it.  I'm trying to picture what you have extra on the cill that hooks into the wheel well, any pics?

It hooks under the body:

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-VXc4fMk/0/L/smugshot_5365454-L.jpg)

When the shell was originally built, did the sill go on first?  At the back it's also long enough to go all the way to the end, over where the end plate goes over the floor - thinking originally it would have been under that piece?
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: 94touring on December 15, 2012, 07:24:27 AM
Oh that's interesting, I've never seen a cill that came like that.  Mine have always been flush on the ends. 
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on December 15, 2012, 08:09:27 AM
Quote from: 94touring on December 15, 2012, 07:24:27 AM
Oh that's interesting, I've never seen a cill that came like that.  Mine have always been flush on the ends.

Well stop buying those fancy Heritage panels and start shopping in the bargain basement...as Forest Gump said, 'buying aftermarket Mini panels is like a box of chocolates...you never know what you gonna get'.

::)
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on January 20, 2013, 01:51:47 PM
Finally got the sills buttoned up for the most part...scuttle closing panels are in.  Someone said, 'before putting the wings on, make sure to fit the hood so everything lines up correctly'.

So I went and got my hood out...set it in place.  But there appears to be a rotisserie in the way...  8.gif

How much hood do I need fitted???
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: 94touring on January 20, 2013, 03:56:40 PM
Do the best you can with the hood.  You should be able to check width of the rear corners, may have to measure the rest.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: PokesdownPaul on April 17, 2013, 09:16:29 AM
Just seen your build history to date; looks very good!  However, I was horrified to see the sills you are fitting.  Here in the UK they are called "cover sills" and only tend to be used by bodgers. They are wider than standard, reaching right round to the flat floor underneath. The problem is that they close off the original vents/drains that allow moisture to escape. The enclosed sills will then start to rust away from the inside very fast, unless you happen to live in Arizona...  We tend to slice the lower couple of inches off of these cheap panels, so that the vents are still open to the atmosphere, and they then look more like the original sills.  It's also easier to spray wax protection into them every year with these still open.  I realise that you're building this as a rally car, and want it to be strong, but I'm sure you also want it to last.  I used to race my 1275GT on the beach at Weston super Mare each year, but as long as I hosed it out thoroughly after the event, it never suffered from the salt water, thanks to the sills being free draining.  Good luck with the rest of the project!
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on April 17, 2013, 09:57:28 AM
[we're sorry, you've reached a non-working number...please check the number and dial again, or ask your operator for assistance]
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on April 17, 2013, 09:58:07 AM
Just kidding...

Wow, I'd forgotten this thread still existed!   ;D

DEFINITELY want it to last, PDP (no rust until the roll, that's my motto).  Thanks for the tip.  I can't remember right now if they were open at all...argh.  I do think I'd only tacked the right side in place, so I could easily chop some off the inside - but I know I finished up the left hand one.  :-[

When I was looking at buying panels I remembered a sill I've had lying around since the late 80s...when I held it up it was so narrow I just figured that was the difference between the Mk1 I'd bought it for and this later car, so I bought a new one.  Should have save myself the money and used the narrow one!
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on April 18, 2013, 09:37:34 AM
Looked at this last night - definitely sealed right up.

Maybe I'll try nicking open the lower/inside of each bump out...kind of 'louver' it out.  Definitely won't be cutting them off at this point.  Argh.

I did put a really heavy coat of POR up in there before mounting the sill - might buy me a little extra time.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on October 18, 2013, 03:08:54 AM
"Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days.  Unless you're sure you want to reply, please consider starting a new topic."

:(

Well that's a fine how do you do...

While it's too early to tell if this is the start of any real momentum, we've started to put a little time in on this again - plus with 7 days/wk of kids sports winding down hopefully I can make some sort of regular progress on it for a bit so I'll dredge this thread out of the basement and brush off the cobwebs.

The only major progress has been that I got the wings on.  For better or worse.  Sucked.

I ended up putting the shell on blocks on the front so I could remove the rotisserie pipe and fit the hood to get the wings lined up 'properly'.  Or try, anyway.  Maybe if I was good I could properly finesse the used pieces I got with the car...otherwise I probably should have purchased new panels...just not in the budget so will press on, regardless.

The hood is a perfect example of this...I spent some time working it over but this is what I was starting with:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-pPw4HRk/0/L/smugshot_7794972-L.jpg)

Will probably end up replacing it before this is over.

I spent hours and hours trying to get the wings to line up right - it didn't help that the right side was the used one with the hood channel on it, etc (needed because of the prior damage to the inner panel).  This is what I was working with on the right side:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-dbLJHhb/0/L/smugshot_295501-L.jpg)
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-CSLbJvF/0/L/smugshot_5556560-L.jpg)

The left side was nice with the new wing and regular inner wing.  I used a trick someone here said and lined up the back and put a screw in the hood channel area to hold it while I attempted to then match the front - of course, on the left side I had no where to put a screw...or anything else for that matter.  Still not sure what the perfect alignment of the scuttle-to-wing should have been...pretty sure I have too big of a gap...but will have to do.  Not a show car.

Here's how the right side lines up:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-n79L46r/0/L/smugshot_9322935-L.jpg)

And the left (I think this was actually a test fit and the gap isn't quite that big - but it was 4 months ago and my memory sucks):
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-MkCGqVp/0/L/smugshot_7163467-L.jpg)

Graft complete:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-8wt3HgD/0/L/smugshot_2451075-L.jpg)

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-W9tmkV5/0/L/smugshot_7014865-L.jpg)

Another thing I did was chop out the rear boxes.  I searched endlessly for rollcage pictures showing where the main hoop attaches to the car to see where they should go - almost impossible to find.  But it needs to be as far out and as close to the 'B' pillar as possible, so there really was no other choice.  I'll weld them back in after the cage gets inspected.
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-ZnqSLwW/0/L/smugshot_8249061-L.jpg)

Last week my kids were buying into the, 'help me on the Mini' thing so I put them to work with the DA on the floor - pretty sure the last time they helped me was the day I brought it home  :D:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-3v6TMMR/0/L/smugshot_2247288-L.jpg)

Yesterday I pushed it outside and started to smooth out the welds on my bodger panels:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-4RbFgVS/0/L/smugshot_1816441-L.jpg)

Also started to sand down the roof...(I try to alternate jobs to give the compressor a break when using the DA or sandblaster - can't afford to break it!) and think I will try priming that before cleaning up the inside anymore.  Too much to do in there first - I just picked up a step bit and hole saw to make patches for the holes in the floor...and added a battery box and door repair panels to my 'restorationmini' wish list...

I have to do as much as possible before I lose interest again.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: 94touring on October 18, 2013, 04:47:44 AM
Whoa, working on this thing again  4.gif.  The welds on the outer sill look good.   
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on November 04, 2013, 05:51:09 PM
So does this need to be completely shiny before I can put some primer on it?

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/25575467_WmPcFK#!i=2884009142&k=Wx7tMRg&lb=1&s=L)

Man I think it must have been parked next to whichever car you were working on that lived with a fat cat...huge dents all over the roof - sucks.  And it won't have a headliner so can't even hide them on the underside.   ::)
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: 94touring on November 04, 2013, 06:48:57 PM
Yeah remove all that rust and push the dents out best you can.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on November 05, 2013, 03:12:31 AM
Quote from: 94touring on November 04, 2013, 06:48:57 PM
Yeah remove all that rust and push the dents out best you can.

That's actually just little spots of primer...no rust.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on March 28, 2014, 10:22:48 AM
Birthday #2 has come and gone...should have kept my mouth shut.   11.gif

Went and dropped the race mota off this morning, though!  1100 cc's of whoop ass - will be putting up some BIG numbers.  What..60hp?

Basically just looking for direction from the place...would anyone in their right mind put money into a 1098 to race with when there are no rules on engine size?  I think if it would be cheap enough to get me out there I'd do it.  I really just want to put my foot to the floor and hear noise - if that sends me down the road at 40mph instead of 60mph it's probably a good thing (other than the issue of being time barred...but will cross that bridge if/when I ever come to it).

Upgrading from a Dialarc 250 to Syncrowave 250 this weekend, too - hopefully will make my TIG welds look good enough to pass inspection - and since I finally got the die for the pipe bender I bought in 2012, I could actually/possibly/at some point start making the cage.

Too bad spring sports are starting.  Guess we'll wait for summer to get back into the garage now... ::)
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on April 18, 2014, 11:20:21 AM
Did someone say pipe bender?

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Other/SmugShots/i-qPNxBmj/0/L/smugshot_288454-L.jpg)

Good little workout...need a longer bar or less time at the bar.  Won't ever need 180deg probably, though - just did it to show off my mad skills.   ::)

Syncrowave has turned into money pit - needed a new water cooled TIG torch for it and the water cooler I bought a few years ago on ebay needs a new pump.  Ordered that this morning...getting there slowly.  Can't wait to try it out, though - and not having to stop every 5-10 minutes and let the air cooled torch cool down will be awesome.   4.gif
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: 94touring on April 18, 2014, 12:11:14 PM
You making giant candy canes?
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on April 18, 2014, 01:26:29 PM
Quote from: 94touring on April 18, 2014, 12:11:14 PM
You making giant candy canes?

:D

That's one expensive candy cane!
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on April 19, 2014, 03:26:54 AM
I was really hoping to use the bender to tweak the LCB exhaust headers so they would clear the drive flange.  SUCK!  No deals...too many little bends I can't get it into the bender properly.

I'd also picked up a 3-into-1 header on ebay that needed some welding.  No deals on that either, although I might be able to cut off the bottom and get that to fit.

Guess the '65 gets pushed back into the corner again until I decide to buy a real Maniflow header for early cars.

Double suck.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on April 25, 2014, 05:28:46 PM
New battery box...check.
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-vB6V3GX/0/L/smugshot_6338333-L.jpg)

But why doesn't it have holes in it like the old one?

Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Jims5543 on April 25, 2014, 06:50:57 PM
Because, as I learned some posts ago, it is a bodger box, not a proper battery box.   ;D
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: 94touring on April 25, 2014, 07:14:35 PM
You got an extra budget box. ..shoulda bought that one from me  22.gif
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on April 26, 2014, 03:19:23 AM
You f'ers!   :D

I'm seriously considering chopping off those sills again...and this stupid bodger box...now... 36.gif
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on May 02, 2014, 07:11:11 AM
I can bend it...I can fish-mouth it...

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Welding-and-Fabrication/Misc/i-2Vs9dwb/0/L/smugshot_6641584-L.jpg)

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Welding-and-Fabrication/Misc/i-V85Mbbm/0/L/smugshot_5594169-L.jpg)

Fits nice:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Welding-and-Fabrication/Misc/i-xkjRVHr/0/L/smugshot_1724074-L.jpg)

Now the question is if I can weld it while lying in the car on my back with the foot pedal between my knees.  :(
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on May 02, 2014, 01:47:10 PM
I also cut blanks and fill holes.

It's what I do.

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-mgRmqfx/0/L/smugshot_6637997-L.jpg)

Are these holes from the manufacturing process?  Do you typically fill them in?  The only reason I'm going it is because I saw Kevin Tetz do it...no idea if it's right or wrong.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: 94touring on May 02, 2014, 02:21:29 PM
Your pipe bender looks fun. 

The holes you're talking about, are they they drain plugs on the floor?
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on May 04, 2014, 05:13:36 AM
Quote from: 94touring on May 02, 2014, 02:21:29 PM
Your pipe bender looks fun. 

The holes you're talking about, are they they drain plugs on the floor?

I guess.  My '65 had rubber/plastic plugs in them, but this car seems to have metal ones.  Some are held in place by little tabs but others look to be press fit.  My thought is if they're out, I'm welding them up.  If they're still in place with no rust around them I'm leaving them.  That might change when I see how it looks since there won't be any interior in the car covering them up.

The other update on this project is I heard back from the engine shop.  They said everything seems ok - block, crank, head - no cracks, etc.  When I bought the car the PO said I would probably need to sleeve one of the cylinders since one of the pistons melted, but I guess that's not the case.  They said .020 would be fine.  But do I want to put money into an 1100?

Here's the estimate (just for the machine shop work - parts and assembly would be my responsibility):

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/Misc/i-mRT3Ppt/0/O/RLEstPic.jpg)

Vizard and another write up I found online says it's possible to go to 1220cc with IMP pistons.  Sounds fun, but again...do I really want to spend that on an 1100...and I'm a little worried about buying a bunch of stuff online and putting it together myself - what about 'balancing', etc?  I've always heard, 'balanced and blueprinted' blah, blah, blah.  How much of a beating is it going to take using stock parts?

MED has some sweet looking Omega +.020 pistons...$600, though.

(http://www.med-engineering.co.uk/products_pictures/normal__MG_7323_1.JPG)

I'm really not qualified to piece it together myself - I'm sure it would end up being one of those, 'why did you do X without doing Y?  You should have bought this and this and this and had the machine shop do that'.

Oh well...really won't be needing an engine anytime soon but figured it would be nice to have an idea where I'm heading...
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on May 30, 2014, 12:20:58 PM
Did a bunch of sandblasting today.  The trouble with dragging my feet so much is that stuff I sandblast starts to rust again before I get another burst of steam...even with a dehumidifier running in the garage.  About to start a new job where I'll be working from home full time - maybe I can pick off little bits and keep moving.

Cut out this section of the footwell for another patch:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-jjwnNQJ/0/L/smugshot_6716155-L.jpg)

And got a surprise from brown Santa!

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-MsKm8g7/0/L/smugshot_9029923-L.jpg)

Also found a shop an hour from me that stocks some race seats - will be picking up these cheapy steel frame Cobra's:
(http://www.hmsmotorsport.com/pimg/Monaco-Pro-2013.jpg)

Sucks that the pair is going to cost me what I paid for the whole car... 50.gif

Also got a supplier for steel - will be reinforcing the tunnel and crossmember, suspension pickup points, etc, per the How to Modify Your Mini book...and they also can get the 1.75" and 1.5" tube for the FIA-spec cage.   77.gif

Eventually.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: 94touring on June 01, 2014, 08:46:00 AM
You need to expoxy sealer after you get it to bare metal buddy!  Did the sub frame and panels make it ok?
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on June 01, 2014, 10:31:10 AM
Quote from: 94touring on June 01, 2014, 08:46:00 AM
You need to expoxy sealer after you get it to bare metal buddy!  Did the sub frame and panels make it ok?

I've yet to pop my epoxy sealer cherry...bought a quart awhile back just haven't tried it in my gun yet.  I'm scared...

Got 'em!  Need to dig under the tarp outside and bring in the old subby and start stripping it down.  That will be another first - dry suspension?  Silly... ;D
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: 94touring on June 01, 2014, 10:36:36 AM
Ok good.  I had to strategically put those skin patch panels in there.   My concern was they'd come loose and get crushed by the subby.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on June 21, 2014, 04:51:22 AM
Got the patch on the front corner finished up:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-whLPZJ4/0/L/smugshot_5405263-L.jpg)

And put a coat of POR on it as well as the drain holes and other welds I'd sandblasted.  Also beat the footwell back into shape so it sits flat again.  I hate how I can't get it perfect - not that it matters for this car, but if I was doing the '65 I would be really disappointed with it not coming out like new.

I've also been looking at all the tabs for holding things under the car - brake lines, etc.  They look like crap, I need my bottom smooth so she glides through the gravel with less resistance.  Last night I was GUI (Grinding Under the Influence) and since everything will be inside, anyway, I took care of that situation:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-997vBCj/0/L/smugshot_8035851-L.jpg)

Nothing better than a smooth bottom.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on August 02, 2014, 01:43:15 PM
Had a breakthrough last night...

My HF blast cabinet was always frustrating me - blast for a few minutes and you couldn't see the part anymore.  Wait a few minutes for the dust to settle, blast some more.  So the other day I was watching a video from Eastwood and they mentioned the exhaust port on their cabinet...man, do I have one of those?  No dust collection system anyway.

But it seems the stars aligned this once for me.  My exhaust fan for the paint booth is above the blast cabinet.  Bazinga!  Climbed up and took the end out of the ceiling of the booth and stuck it on the cabinet:

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBodywork/i-kZZvvRF/0/L/smugshot_3106597-L.jpg)

Blast away!  No more dust inside, and no more dust escaping into the garage.   4.gif
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on September 11, 2014, 03:44:18 PM
Picking away on this...was psyched I got some primer on some of it...until it hit me that I mixed it wrong.   50.gif

This is why it's better for me to just leave it - when I actually do something it's usually wrong.  HA!  Pissah.

I'd spent the last month or so stripping from A pillar to A pillar around the back down to metal - was just going to do the roof but it was so much fun I didn't want to stop.  Used a combination of 60, 80, 220 grit discs...sandblasted the seams...and a whole lot of bleeding fingers.  Next time, send it out!

(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBuildUp1/i-xf7BthD/0/L/20140911_044147-L.jpg)

I looked on Auto Body Toomart for some etching primer and thought I'd check my local parts place - 'etching primer in a gallon?  inconceivable!  But we can get sealer primer'.  So I ended up with this:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBuildUp1/i-K5KJ58K/0/L/20140911_053323-L.jpg)

Sounded good, can do it all.  Mix it one way and it's a high build, mix it another and it's regular build...then mix it a third way and it's primer sealer.  Perfect...

Got up early this morning before the kids got up and hit the garage - I'll bust out the primer sealer, mix another batch for the high build...done before I get the 12yo on the bus at 6:45.  Yikes - took way more time than I could have imagined, just to get the primer sealer done.  But, 30min to 24 hours to top coat, will do high build tonight.  Wasn't until later when I replaying it in my head - FK!!  I mixed it 4:1:1, not 4:1:2 - that's just regular build primer!!!

So what do I do now?  Happy that at least it looks primered:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBuildUp1/i-CTWJbPv/0/L/20140911_064935-L.jpg)

Think I should still do high build over it?  At this point I'm thinking just throw some guide coat on it, sand, and start with the filler...AFTER I do the front end, with the proper mix...  50.gif

Look at that roof...f'in joke.  Man...  :(
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: 94touring on September 11, 2014, 03:57:25 PM
Whoops  :-[
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on June 09, 2022, 06:52:56 AM
Thread started March 13, 2012...ouch.

Anyway, my son just finished his freshman year of college, wanted to pick up something to work on for the summer - hey, how about 'The Rotisserie Mini' (as it has become known in the house).  No initial outlay of money and mom will be happy to see something being done to it that might get it out of the garage she's never been able to park in!

(https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBuildUp1/i-MkmKPmT/0/7eb4adfc/L/20220606_140208-L.jpg)

He attacked the front subframe that has been sitting outside since, well, 2012...question - lots of easy stuff on it that's obvious to replace, but what else?  Wondering about the top arms/needle bearings...looking now apparently the rebuild kit is cheap enough...do the actual arms ever need replacing?  Also pretty cheap, but I can picture lots of pretty cheap parts becoming very expensive very quickly.

Goal is to try to quickly throw as much of it together as possible as a complete thrash car, rallycrosser, etc.  Dropped the 1098 back at the engine shop, thinking .040 over and whatever else is recommended for a non-grenade powerplant.

Thanks gents!

Pat

Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: MiniDave on June 09, 2022, 07:52:32 AM
Wow, freshman in college already!

Yes, replace the needle bearings in the upper arms, every one I've ever taken apart they've been shot. They're a little tricky to get out, there's a step inside the arm that you can't get around with a straight punch to get at the back of the bearing to drive it out of the arm. I take a long (8") 1/2" bolt and slightly round off one side of the head to match the inside curve of the bore the bearings are in, then you can get that in behind the bearing and drift it out without damaging the bore that the needle cage fits into.

Sounds harder than it is, but impossible without the "tool". I've never had an upper arm too damaged to use unless they let the bearings wear thru the arm....usually the shaft is way damaged before that and clunking badly.

Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Willie_B on June 09, 2022, 09:16:44 AM
If your going to be bashing it around you will want to reinforce the front and probably the rear subframe. Look here.
https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/306915-subframe-reinforcement/
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: MiniDave on June 09, 2022, 10:17:57 AM
I can see adding some gussets in the front subby, but not just willy-nilly anywhere there's a corner..... think about what forces will be in play and where they will act on the subby.......in particular, I would look at where the tie bar mounts at the front of the subframe

As for the rear, I don't really see the need, or where to add metal that would really help.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on June 09, 2022, 10:27:30 AM
Quote from: Willie_B on June 09, 2022, 09:16:44 AM
If your going to be bashing it around you will want to reinforce the front and probably the rear subframe. Look here.
https://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums/topic/306915-subframe-reinforcement/

That's awesome, thanks Willie!  I was reading through the HTMYM book on off road prep again...some of those pics in that thread make more sense now.

I spent hours and hours all those years ago seam welding everything on the shell I could get my welder to - probably not the best it could be due to seam sealer and junk between the seams I couldn't clean out - but better than nothing.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on June 09, 2022, 10:33:04 AM
Quote from: MiniDave on June 09, 2022, 07:52:32 AM
Wow, freshman in college already!

Yes, replace the needle bearings in the upper arms, every one I've ever taken apart they've been shot. They're a little tricky to get out, there's a step inside the arm that you can't get around with a straight punch to get at the back of the bearing to drive it out of the arm. I take a long (8") 1/2" bolt and slightly round off one side of the head to match the inside curve of the bore the bearings are in, then you can get that in behind the bearing and drift it out without damaging the bore that the needle cage fits into.

Sounds harder than it is, but impossible without the "tool". I've never had an upper arm too damaged to use unless they let the bearings wear thru the arm....usually the shaft is way damaged before that and clunking badly.

Thanks!  Sounds tricky...I never did the rears either - got the rebuild kit but the discussion about reaming the bushings freaked me out.  Was thinking I might take it to a machine shop.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: ADRay on June 10, 2022, 05:58:02 AM
Hi Pat, I had my front and rear arm bushings / bearings done by Kevin at KJE in Rochester, after attempting the job myself. He charged me $100 per set. I would use him again in the future.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on June 11, 2022, 01:41:25 PM
Quote from: ADRay on June 10, 2022, 05:58:02 AM
Hi Pat, I had my front and rear arm bushings / bearings done by Kevin at KJE in Rochester, after attempting the job myself. He charged me $100 per set. I would use him again in the future.

Awesome, thanks Andy!  I might go that route.  Sort of wondering if I should even bother trying to save them (the fronts) or stick them on the shelf and get new ones - $45 pounds?  Although I can't tell if they're built up, ready to go.

Do the shock mounts in the top arms press in?

(https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBuildUp1/i-dWDFX8d/0/337e1a1a/L/20220611_161653-L.jpg)

(https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBuildUp1/i-vnq8Btv/0/24a84ced/L/20220611_163649-L.jpg)

(https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBuildUp1/i-WrSnXCX/0/b55d18ca/L/20220611_163352-L.jpg)

Kind of liking not being the one bundled up in the sun!   4.gif

(https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBuildUp1/i-BmZcVvX/0/6bb9e6da/L/20220611_161723-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: MiniDave on June 11, 2022, 02:03:33 PM
Shock bolts not pressed in, just rusted in   ;D

Take a hammer to them, they'll pop out.....thread a nut on the end first so you don't damage the end of the bolt, if you mushroom it out it won't go thru the hole.

£54 ea is about $70 ea plus shipping.....
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: Mudhen on June 12, 2022, 04:45:53 AM
Quote from: MiniDave on June 11, 2022, 02:03:33 PM
Shock bolts not pressed in, just rusted in   ;D

:D

Gotcha, thanks.

Is that 'upgraded pin' picture I posted that shock mount bolt?  Wondering why it's threaded on both sides...

And is that a special 'cup' in the arm for the ball socket?  I don't see one listed - oh...is it on this guy?  So I should be able to just pull the old one out?

(https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars/80MiniBuildUp1/i-x97F5Z2/0/20d1a247/L/20220612_074220-L.jpg)

Thanks AGAIN for all the help.  First time taking apart a front subby - first time doing anything on a dry suspension car, actually!

Pat
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: LarryLebel on June 12, 2022, 07:41:12 AM
Use a propane torch to melt the cup out.
Title: Re: Rally Mini Build
Post by: MiniDave on June 12, 2022, 08:02:30 AM
Right, they're just plastic, but I would see if you can just pull it out.....there is a small hole in the arm on the bottom of the cup, sometimes you can get a small pin punch in there and push it out.

The shock bolt is threaded on both sides because the short end goes thru the control arm and a nut locks it in place, the long side is where the shock goes on.