Purpose:
this car is a driver, and was a bit of a bastard when I bought it. My goal is to have a solid, stripped down and imperfect car that I can drive the wheels off of, and not care (too much anyway) if one of my boys puts a scratch on it. Also, learn more about Mini's by doing as much as I can myself.
Background:
1982 Mini 1000 HL LHD imported from Germany. It had been giving a bit of the "retro" treatment on the dash, exterior repainted, aftermarket grille, wheels and side mirrors.
I bought it May 2014. In that time, I have upgraded the brakes to discs in front, replaced the floor (read: bodge), electronic ignition.
The head blew on it in fall of 2014. The local reputable British car shop put a port and polished head with stainless hardware and modern seats. I don't know much more about it other than it doesn't have a water temperature port. I found an adapter that makes use of the heater port (I removed the heater).
Those were the major repairs and upgrades. Other than that, it's been fixing the little bugs that pop up, and wear and tear maintenance.
Current status:
It's been in my garage since August. The engine was showing signs of a potential head gasket leak. I've decided to take it off of the road this year to finally give the car the attention it needs.
Scope of work:
- Repair all major rust issues on body, specifically the rear end
- Replace head gasket
- pulling the motor to clean & inspect it and engine compartment
- Replace front windshield
Photo from original listing:
http://www.2040-cars.com/Mini/Classic-Mini/1982-mini-1000hl-high-luxury--841376/
in the garage, beginning to take it apart
4/17
Removed the rear subframe.
Before:
After. Body revealed no surprises. Unfortunately, the subframe is in worse shape than I thought.
Cool. Looks like maybe a new subframe is in order? Can't tell if that's something that will sandblast out well enough to reuse.
I'm a fan of the sandblast and powdercoat on subframes and suspension parts
this baby is unusable. Front driver's side is toast. definitely planning on cleaning up and reusing the hard components of they're good.
Still a fan of sandblast and powdercoat - on the new one then! 77.gif
The paint they come in is like Ecoat - thin and will not stop rusting, unless it will be a "never sees moisture" car. Even then I would coat it with something better as there's always humidity.
Is that a date code on there? 10-9-81? as in 10th of Sept 81, or 9th of Jan 81? If so, I wonder if that's a manufactured date or an installed date? Probably the mfrd date?
I'd ditch everything on it and start new. Fittings and a roll of brake line is cheap. Buy or rent a flare tool and go to work. Perfect time to add hi-los too.
Quote from: 94touring on April 18, 2020, 12:29:03 PM
Perfect time to add hi-los too.
Have some! got a pair off bikewiz last year.
Stripped everything off of the subframe today. It was in worse shape than I thought. everything I hoped would be reusable is.
Parts arrived today. Subframe looks better than I was afraid it might. I went with a powder coated one, and no touch up needed. It looks like it has 2 built in exhaust hangers or something that the original one didn't. Any ideas?
Yes, that's what those are, I just cut them off or ignore them....
Upon closer inspection, they sent me the 1991-on model (not what I ordered). knowing that, is it still as simple as cutting them off? Thanks.
I think that's the only meaningful difference....maybe one of the more experienced guys can chime in.
Different hangers. I'd just leave them.
The exhaust hangers and the places where the valves for the hydrolastic suspension go are the main differences.
Since the picture shows rubber cones, the hydro mounts are not an issue.
I used a fully built up later subframe when I restored the white Moke and did not have any issues. I ignored the exhaust hanger rods pre-welded on and used the appropriate types for the exhaust I went with on the Moke.
thanks everyone. I was pretty pissed at the notion that I ordered this thing all the way from England and waited 2 months for it, and it was going to be unusable. Oddly enough, my original order invoice was for a pre '91 model, but the paper copy that was mailed with stated the post '91 model.
I've been having lots of problems with parts suppliers right now, so don't feel bad....at least you got a usable part!
Wow, that brings back memories -
Well done!
cleaned up & painted the subframe mounts and bolted it on.
A little update sine July: wrapped up phase one of the work. Rear subframe has been replaced, radius arms refurbished, and brake assemblies remounted. Leaving the brake lines and parking brake install until the body work is done.
today I pulled the engine out for the first time. next step is drop the front subframe and evaluate what it needs.
What the subframe will need - a good cleaning!
Upper control arm bearing kits (2)
lower control arm bushings (check the pins too, sometimes they're rusted pretty badly) I prefer the MiniSport adjustable lower arms, so you can set the camber where you want it
tie bar bushings (I prefer to get the adjustable tie bars - again Minisport is a good source)
New rubber cones and HiLos
upper arm rebound buffer (2) These are always soggy from oil
Rubber pad between subframe and body (where the big bolt goes) (2)
New shocks?
New CV boots?
Caliper overhaul kits or if drum brakes a disc brake kit.
New ball joints (4) I like the Japanese non shimmed type. Spendy but they're well made and never need shimming or greasing.
New wheel bearings?
A rubber cone compressor?
Check the tie rod ends and replace if needed, also the boots. if the steering rack is worn now is the time to replace it with the subframe out
Are you going to rebuild the 998 or replace it with a 1275?
What's the round thing at the block in front of the breather cannister?
What's the round thing at the block in front of the breather cannister?
Waterpump inlet?
On the backside under the tappet cover? That's the mechanical fuel pump. Has a lever arm that goes into the block and rides up and down on a special lobe on the camshaft.
Lots of Minis have an electric fuel pump instead. Mechanical pumps seem to be mostly found on 998 engines.
Oh, sure....my eyes playing tricks on me....
TDA got it.....
Bruce, do you really think I don't know what a mechanical fuel pump looks like? ;D
I've been messing with those (not necessarily on a Mini tho) since I was 12 years old and the one on our Mercury died!
Quote from: TDA on March 14, 2021, 01:47:03 PM
What's the round thing at the block in front of the breather cannister?
Waterpump inlet?
yes, if we are talking about the circle shaped piece to the right of the canister.
Thanks for the punch list Dave. I have already acquired new frame and motor mounts, rubber cones, and some other bits. Still need to get the arm rebuild kits. Fortunately, I did the front brake disc conversion 6 years ago, and everything on that front just needs a little tidying. Shocks are 2 years old and only saw one short season. Planning on reinstalling the 998.
Quote from: MiniDave on March 14, 2021, 03:33:49 PM
Bruce, do you really think I don't know what a mechanical fuel pump looks like? ;D
I've been messing with those (not necessarily on a Mini tho) since I was 12 years old and the one on our Mercury died!
No. But I really think it wasn't
you who was the person asking the question! ;D
How did it get around to you?
update - currently putting the front subframe back together
Looks terrific - what did you use to punch out the old bearings in the upper arms?
good question. The machine shop that I'd brought the radius arms to be pressed and honed suggested that next time I don't punch them out myself like last time. So, it was left to the professionals.
I took a large bolt about 8" long and ground one side of the head round to match the curve of the bearing. There is a step inside the arm that you have to go around to get to the back side of the bearing - you can't hit it with a regular punch in my experience because of that step. Also, if you do use a regular punch or drift, you will probably dig a gouge into the side of the arm which can cause the bearing to bind on the shaft after you put the new ones in - otherwise you'll have to take a dremel or burr or something to clean up the inside of the arm first.
Machine shop probably had an inside bearing removal tool. I don't have one of those, but my tool works just fine and doesn't damage the arm.
the latest - starting to piece together the front subframe. Need a few more parts to arrive before I can bolt it back up to the body.
just a quick update, slow and steady progress. I've finally cleaned all of the heavy grease off of the engine bay, and continuing to clean the exterior of the engine. nearly ready to temporarily refit the front subframe.
What color will it be, looks like originally it was OE white?
Quote from: MiniDave on June 12, 2021, 01:06:50 PMWhat color will it be, looks like originally it was OE white?
Going to keep it black for now. It was originally silver (the interior still is, so I'm going to have the engine bay done in silver (so I can see around the engine)
As much as I'd like to do a complete restoration, it's not in the cards (yet).
UPDATE: for the last year or so, it's been up on stands after reassembling the subframes.
after going back and forth about whether I would take on the body work (and the whole "everything else in life to pay attention to") the car has pretty much not moved forward until this past week. Decided to outsource the body work, only because some of the rot fount its way behind the rear wheels on the outside body panels. Better to leave it to the pros. Currently it's off at the body shop, expecting it back in the next couple of weeks.
Currently cleaning up the light fixtures and flares ahead of re-installation. The engine head needs a little attention in the way of valve seals.
Then I can start buttoning it back up 🤞🤞🤞
It's always fun when you start to make forward progress!
Post up some new pics if you're able.
this is the latest one from 8/24 at the shop
a couple more from the last few months
Yep lot's of rear end repair.
home again
Wow! I like the black with the silver boot and engine compartments.....looks really cool! :great:
Thanks! I would have liked to repaint the whole thing it's original silver, but the black overall is still in great shape. I kept the engine bay silver to hopefully help with visibility when everything is reinstalled.