Malcolm was finally able to make the arrangements for picking up his free Moke in Boerne and brought me my next Mini from Florida. It arrived today. Initial inspection revealed no discrepancies in how the seller described it and Malcolm's pre-purchase inspection report was accurate as well.
I do need to address a couple minor issues before getting the basic Texas state safety inspection: needs new tires ones on it are 14 years old, I already have replacements) right side low beam out, hazards not working - turn signals do work, so either the switch (I already have a replacement) or the hazard flasher unit.
All of the above are things I knew it needed when I bought it (except for the low beam). I'm happy so far.
Pictures and more information later.
So, you sold the Marcos already?
Now you have a Mini and a Moke again? Or a Mini and a Mini? or is this the one you bought a while ago to replace the Moke and are just now getting it? I'm confused! 8.gif
I sold the Moke at the same time I bought the Marcos.
The Marcos has not yet sold. It is on the market through MiniGuy.
This is a 1991 Saloon (possibly an RSP) - 1275, HIF Carb to replace the Marcos.
These are the two "toys" at present. I have a "third" due to leave Amsterdam soon - a 1986 "Burton" - roadster kit on a Citroen 2CV chassis. When the Marcos sells, I will stay at the Mini Saloon and the Burton.
http://www.burtoncar.com/ (http://www.burtoncar.com/)
That looks unique and fun.
Really cool! I live the styling. Does it lean on corners like 2CV?
Which one did you get (Color/interior)?
I like the cream with the tan interior and chrome wheels on their website....
This is the one I got:
https://www.burtoncar.com/occasions.html?car=79 (https://www.burtoncar.com/occasions.html?car=79)
They changed the seat upholstery to a tan that matches the dash cover and side panels. The pictures on the site are from before the change.
I like that one! Can't wait to see it....be sure to take a video of it for us when you drive it!
I don't have anything to take a video with.
My cell phone is an old style flip-phone and my digital camera might barely do video (I've never tried it).
Step into the modern age, Michael! ;D
You can buy a dashcam for pretty cheap money these days....I've seen them on Amazon as cheap as $40.
https://www.amazon.com/ThiEYE-Dashboard-Recorder-Recording-G-Sensor/dp/B07ZTLYB92/ref=asc_df_B07ZTLYB92/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385628990861&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16231180056045543440&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023906&hvtargid=aud-829758849484:pla-847715916178&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=76780761257&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385628990861&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16231180056045543440&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023906&hvtargid=aud-829758849484:pla-847715916178 (https://www.amazon.com/ThiEYE-Dashboard-Recorder-Recording-G-Sensor/dp/B07ZTLYB92/ref=asc_df_B07ZTLYB92/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385628990861&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16231180056045543440&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023906&hvtargid=aud-829758849484:pla-847715916178&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=76780761257&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=385628990861&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16231180056045543440&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9023906&hvtargid=aud-829758849484:pla-847715916178)
includes a 32 G card too!
Introducing "Miss Ruby".
Bruce got to see her in person when we met for some of the Spring Drive planning.
Some more pictures.
Looks great. Now to make it yours as we all seem to do. Look forward to seeing it in April.
998?
Michael has a nice new Mini! No Dave, it's a 1275, not a 998. Michael mentioned to me that all the evidence points to this car being one of the limited edition RSP (Rover Special Products) Mini Coopers. That was the special edition, limited run of Minis badged and trimmed as Coopers to test the waters of re-launching the regular production of the Mini Cooper model after a 20 year drought of no Cooper models. Obviously the RSP Coopers were a big success and based upon the positive reception Rover then made Mini Cooper models all through the 1990s up until the end of the Mini in 2000.
A little "excitement" with Miss Ruby today - driving down the highway on some errands and the windshield shattered. :-\
It turned out to be one of the old style "toughened" glass windshields. I got lucky in it did not fall into the car and I was able to get off the highway and nurse it home on side streets. I have comprehensive insurance on it, so will see what that does for coverage on getting a new windshield.
Yikes! That had to be a little scary!
You can get a windshield pretty cheaply from MiniSpares, I usually order two and split the cost of shipping with someone - anyone else need a windshield?
Here is a picture:
Michael, glad you are okay. This is the situation I was warning Dan about several years ago on his car. He's since changed to a laminated windshield when he re-did his car.
It's simply amazing the UK stupidly allowed these crazy toughened windshields to be fitted to new cars up into the 1980s. I think the US required laminated glass before WWII.
Drivers in the UK were taught to punch a hole with their hand through the shattered windscreen so they could see through it good enough to pull over to the side of the road. Incredible.
Yowza, glad you're ok!
I order 2 windshields at a time from minispares and hang on to it for a rainy day or sell it and break even.
No way I would "punch a hole" in one with my hand - I don't want my hand shredded.
Years ago while living in Colorado, the Mini in front of me on a club drive had his windshield do the same (but definitely caused by a rock hitting it). I helped him push out the broken glass after he pulled off the road. We both were glad we had on gloves as those edges are sharp. As soon as we started pushing on the glass (trying to keep it in big chunks), the whole mess just fell in.
I plan on trying to get it replaced with a laminated version.
Hey Michael I shared your picture with the Texas Dashpot group. Hope you don't mind. There was a discussion earlier this year about toughened vs laminated windscreens and some people took the stand that are toughened ones were just as good. I was arguing that only laminated windscreens should be on our Minis. I think when people see the picture of your windscreen they'll get the full story.
Quote from: MPlayle on July 24, 2020, 01:06:15 PM
No way I would "punch a hole" in one with my hand - I don't want my hand shredded.
Looks like they changed the instructions in later years to just
push your hand through the shattered glass.
https://www.howacarworks.com/advanced-driving/what-to-do-if-the-windscreen-shatters.amp
Quote from: BruceK on July 24, 2020, 01:18:18 PM
Hey Michael I shared your picture with the Texas Dashpot group. Hope you don't mind. There was a discussion earlier this year about toughened vs laminated windscreens and some people took the stand that are toughened ones were just as good. I was arguing that only laminated windscreens should be on our Minis. I think when people see the picture of your windscreen they'll get the full story.
Hey Bruce,
I don't mind your sharing the picture. It is for good education. I agree that whenever possible, laminated glass should be the way to go. I will be pushing for a laminated replacement.
I was lucky that the windshield did not collapse inward as I was doing about 70 mph when it shattered.
Can you even buy a windshield like that anymore?
I don't think so. I checked Mini Spare, Mini Sport, and Seven Enterprises for availability of windshields and they all only carry the laminated variety now.
Quote from: MiniDave on July 24, 2020, 02:58:43 PM
Can you even buy a windshield like that anymore?
Geez, laminated windshields for Minis are dirt cheap relatively speaking (well under $100 last time I bought one). If there are still some toughened ones still available out there a person would have to crazy to try to save a few bucks buying one.
Quote from: BruceK on July 24, 2020, 03:33:01 PM
Quote from: MiniDave on July 24, 2020, 02:58:43 PM
Can you even buy a windshield like that anymore?
Geez, laminated windshields for Minis are dirt cheap relatively speaking (well under $100 last time I bought one). If there are still some toughened ones still available out there a person would have to crazy to try to save a few bucks buying one.
Unless you buy domestic, then it's a small fortune. I think you can buy 5 for the price of 1 if you order from spares.
Right. There is almost no compelling reason to ever buy any Mini parts domestically.
That's nuts. Raises the question of how do you tell? I'd assume some markings somewhere. Curious as I have no idea if my 65 glass is original or not.
Quote from: gr8kornholio on July 24, 2020, 04:16:11 PM
That's nuts. Raises the question of how do you tell? I'd assume some markings somewhere. Curious as I have no idea if my 65 glass is original or not.
There should be a "logo" marker usually in one of the corners that will give details about the glass such as this one from mine:
So that clearly says "toughened". And here's the "laminated" marking on my Mini's windshield.
Also, I believe any windshield marked with DOT is a laminated one.
Scary!!!
A friend with a Vtec Riley Elf has had his windshield shatter twice on Mini runs, I thought maybe his car was flexing with the extra power or He is just unlucky.
I do not know how to decode the markings to determine the date code of the glass, but I have a suspicion that it was the original windshield.
As such, it would be 29 years old. I suspect with age it got enough blemishes in the surface that direct sun and 102*F temps did it in.
You'll be amazed how much better you can see with the new windshield! After 29 years those pits really add up and it's always much worse than you realize.....
Quote from: MPlayle on July 25, 2020, 08:18:12 AM
As such, it would be 29 years old. I suspect with age it got enough blemishes in the surface that direct sun and 102*F temps did it in.
I think it was a small stone that hit it. The kind of strike that makes a little pop noise (and might cause a small chip) with a laminated windshield. Deadly to a toughened one.
Bruce,
I don't think it was a small rock as even with a toughened windshield the initial rock strike would have the sharp, high pitched, smack sound. This was a low pitched, "woomph" kind of sound as the glass pressure fractured (sort of similar to the sound if you slapped a pillow).
Quote from: MPlayle on July 24, 2020, 12:43:54 PM
Here is a picture:
Wow! That looks familiar! Mine was a loud CRACK! at about 60mph on the interstate at lunch time. Followed by simultaneous and complete blindness in the forward direction. All while surrounded by big-assed trucks and oblivious lunch time commuters. It was very exciting. :-\
FYI, Moss Motors in Virginia has windscreens for super cheap. Mine was 150 bucks with a new locking strip including shipping.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ACtC-3dj2FefLm9HWl5ZOvhyRaSOy_ixRXZjx-ZGVs6k6-wGCjwUgYfbUmuUXzqf2J-xk2pp4Pruom9Pv7jd4KS-NHeFdl4CnqSSD8SLJ17-v95BveaS9l_87R9VcIWotkxvp1guxRReYBG46R_xKVQcjpiDjg=w600-h1057-no?authuser=0)
Well I had been seeing how it would pan out by trying to go through my insurance. That process did not go well. No fault of my insurance (USAA).
They have a contract that uses SafeLite Auto Glass whenever possible. It seems SafeLite cannot even order the windshields for older Minis since it doesn't come through a MINI dealership. The dealership gives them the part number for a new MINI windshield instead.
It only took SafeLite 12 days to come to that conclusion and even then, I had to be the one to call them to find out as they have been poor about giving status updates.
Time to decide where to order at least 1 from and get it on the way for doing the whole effort by myself.
Any installation tips once the replacement arrives?
Well, take your time, use some form of lube, put towels on the scuttle in case you slip, buy a good filet tool. Work the rubber carefully with a flat head screw driver when getting the glass in.
Quote from: 94touring on July 24, 2020, 03:35:30 PM
Quote from: BruceK on July 24, 2020, 03:33:01 PM
Quote from: MiniDave on July 24, 2020, 02:58:43 PM
Can you even buy a windshield like that anymore?
Geez, laminated windshields for Minis are dirt cheap relatively speaking (well under $100 last time I bought one). If there are still some toughened ones still available out there a person would have to crazy to try to save a few bucks buying one.
Unless you buy domestic, then it's a small fortune. I think you can buy 5 for the price of 1 if you order from spares.
https://mossmotors.com/windscreen-laminated?assoc=58182
I don't think you could get 5 for that price anywhere. They also have the top tinted and fully tinted options.
Don't use a flathead screwdriver to install a windshield, ever. Get yourself a set of plastic panel/trim tools. And buy a windshield locking strip tool. There are a couple of different kinds. I haven't used the one with a diamond shaped loop. I have the other kind. It takes some practice and you have to be very patient and take your time. There are a few videos of how to do it (and a few of how NOT to do it) on YouTube.
Make sure you buy a new seal and a new locking strip. I used the newer style wider seal on mine the last time and I really like the little bit of extra width.
At least moss got their prices in order vs mania that's 300 bucks to have it shipped.
Guess I'm the only one not busting glass with flat head screw drivers ::)
Quote from: 94touring on August 05, 2020, 12:41:22 PM
At least moss got their prices in order vs mania that's 300 bucks to have it shipped.
Guess I'm the only one not busting glass with flat head screw drivers ::)
Mine was 150 bucks shipped from Virginia, including the seal and locking strip. The only thing that slightly bugged me was that they use an adhesive plastic sheet on the whole windshield, and the adhesive was a bit of a pain in the butt to get off of the glass. But it wasn't broken when it came, so I guess it worked.
I know they're $45 from spares prior to a shipping quote. The 2nd windshield doesn't effect shipping cost much. I have enough cars coming through that having spare glass is handy.
I ordered two from Mini Spares. We will see what the shipping quote comes out to be.
The seal and locking strip on my windshield are is very good condition. I plan to reuse them. I already have a good tool for the locking strip. I bought it for putting the side windows of the Mini Marcos back in. I used popsicle sticks when I did those. I will get some more of those or a couple plastic tools for getting the windshield into the seal.
If the existing rubber isn't soft enough you may be in for a struggle would be my only concern.
Quote from: MPlayle on August 05, 2020, 01:06:32 PM
The seal and locking strip on my windshield are is very good condition. I plan to reuse them.
I believe this is, as the British say, a false economy.
Why not spend a little extra and get the nice wider new seal that, by virtue of being brand new, is guaranteed to be very pliable?
I have not yet removed the shattered glass. I will be trying to get to that in the next day or so and will fully evaluate the seal and locking strip then.
Don't forget to block your demister vents to prevent glass from falling down them. Good luck
Quote from: BruceK on August 05, 2020, 02:11:34 PM
Don't forget to block your demister vents to prevent glass from falling down them. Good luck
Wonder if you could tape the entire windscreen before taking it out to prevent the inevitable large mess 8.gif
Quote from: 94touring on August 05, 2020, 05:58:38 PM
Wonder if you could tape the entire windscreen before taking it out to prevent the inevitable large mess 8.gif
Hmm, ... I have a roll of brown masking paper and some spray adhesive?
8.gif
Also with the Mini windshield unlike other vehicles you install the seal to the car first then install the glass.
I used spray glue and newspaper on both sides, then just cut through the old seal with a box cutter. I got the whole thing out without dropping any glass chunks.
This is what the newer style wider seal looks like. I like the way it fills out the recess in the sheet metal around the window opening.
I glued and papered the windshield today (both sides). I also checked the seal and locking strip. Both are the newer wide and soft kind. I can definitely reuse them. I also pulled the locking strip so when the papering job dries, I can pull the bulk of the glass out tomorrow.
The grooves on my screen rubber were different widths so make sure the wider groove goes on the windscreen side and the narrower groove goes on the metal side. Getting them backward will cause all kinds of grief.
Took the broken windshield out today. Pictures show it "in paper" and then just after removing it.
I then took my shop vac and cleaned out the rest of the pieces from the seal, floor of the car, and garage floor. I also took some mildly soapy water and a rag and cleaned the glass groove and locking strip groove of the seal to have it ready for the new windshield.
The new windshields are supposed to arrive Thursday from Mini Spares.
New windshields arrived Friday. Both were fully intact, so now I have a spare.
I installed one today. It went in without much struggle. I was done in about 30 minutes, start to finish (all cleaned up and tools put away).
The suction cups were handy for initially getting it into place. Using one of the plastic tools and some mildly soapy water and it worked into place almost as quickly in the video on the windshield thread. Using the fillet tool and some more of the soapy water, the locking strip went back in nicely too.
I just need to put the replacement registration sticker on and I'm back on the road with it.
4.gif
That worked out well!
Nice! I'll bet it helps to do it when it's nice and warm. It was around 40 degrees in my garage when I did mine. Cold rubber did not want to cooperate!
Congratulations Michael. 4.gif
It was so nice to drive "Miss Ruby" again, even if it was 100*F out.
71.gif :-\
Thought I would put the latest update on this thread versus the shop thread or as follow up on the Spring drive thread.
The Spring drive revealed some electrical gremlins on Miss Ruby. Part way into the Wednesday drive, she started misfiring and bucking unless I kept the rpms about 3K or above. Turned out my battery was going bad and with the load of lights, wipers, etc. due to rain, it was dropping out and the alternator could not keep up unless revved.
We got back to the nearest parts store and I bought a new battery and was able to finish leading the drives. Also, my headlights were a bit erratic - poor connctions inside the dash rocker switch as fiddling with it would make them come back on for a while.
As a result, I have been investigating the charging system's wiring and installing relays on the headlights. I got a pair of relays wired in for the headlights and removed some old wiring from the original factory driving lights found on a RSP Cooper. The ones on Miss Ruby are either replacements or have been rewired at some point onto an independent switch.
I found the alternator was wired with two smallish (one 12-14 gauge and the other 14-16 gauge) wires running from a stud to the battery terminal on the solenoid rather than two heavier gauge wires from the two large spade connectors. I am replacing that setup with two 10 gauge wires on the spade connectors and upgrading to a high output alternator. I also have a new switch for the dash ordered. Both are due Friday.
I plan to remove the old alternator tomorrow and get it tested to determine its usefulness as a spare.
Cool! Just in for the resurrected Cars & Coffee on Saturday!
"If" I can get them installed Friday evening. Then I still need to wash it from the drives in the wet.
I took the alternator down to the nearby Autozone and had it tested. Naturally, they needed to look it up by part number or application to set the test machine's parameters. There are no markings of any kind on it and a 1991 Rover Mini is not in their computers. I had to give them the usual "1973 MG Midget" as cross reference and the highest output alternator that found was a 36 amp one. They hooked it up using the spade connectors and ran against the "1973 MG Midget" profile. It passed the testing - ran it twice to be sure.
The high output (70 amp) from Mini Spares is still scheduled for delivery tomorrow, but DHL shows it as "on hold" in Cincinnati as of 9:00 a.m. this morning. We'll see if it actually gets delivered tomorrow.
Given the condition of your battery I don't think you could have driven as much as you did had the alternator been bad, but that said a bad battery can kill a good alternator, so it's good you had it checked. I think the one you have now is 45 amp, which should have been enough, but it never hurts to have a little more juice!
Based on what I can glean from my manuals, I agree that the one I have should be a 45 amp alternator. I am going to keep it as a spare and go with the 70 amp when it arrives.
So, did everything arrive in time for you to get the car ready?
Will we see you tomorrow morning at 6:30am :-\ at Whataburger before Cars & Coffee?
Edit: not sure you were aware that the meetup place changed from Chick-fil-A to Whataburger. But it has.
I am still waiting on DHL to deliver the parts. I am likely going to make a late evening/night of trying to get it done and washed for tomorrow.
I had gotten your direct email about the change in meeting place.
I send you a direct email later this evening letting you know if I will be able to make it.
Okay. Got it. Good luck.
Got the new alternator and headlight switch installed.
With a new, fully charged battery and the new alternator it starts stronger than it ever has for me.
I had to revert the front turn signals back to the standard bulbs to keep the turn signal flasher unit happy as it did not want to work initially when I took the car to finally wash it after last week's drives in the wet.
All is right for Miss Ruby (for now).
Quote from: BruceK on May 07, 2021, 02:15:52 PMEdit: not sure you were aware that the meetup place changed from Chick-fil-A to Whataburger. But it has.
It is because Whataburger's dining room is open and Chick-fil-A is drive only.
The next "project" popped up on Miss Ruby just before the forum went down, so time to update.
I started hearing a "humming" from a wheel while driving. It was speed sensitive and persistent even with the clutch in so probably bearings or a CV joint. I had a spare full set of front wheel bearings for disk brake hubs, so the project was going to start as a repack/replace job. That did not last long.
I found the rear brake shoes worn more on the right rear than the left rear. The right rear wheel cylinder had been leaking. The springs for the rear brakes were likely still the 30 year old originals. The rear bearings were also likely the originals and had never been repacked (dry, cakey grease). That part of the original project turned into replacing the bearings, wheel cylinders, brake shoes, and springs.
The "humming" turned out to be from the left front. I decided to I would use the spare bearing sets and replace the front bearings on both sides. While I was going to be at it, I also decided I would convert the brakes to the 7.5" size for opening the possibility for running 10" wheels. While I would be doing that I decided it would be a good time to refresh the ball joints (likely still the originals) and ordered the new style from Classic Minis Japan along with a set of their castle nuts. When I went to try to remove the original castle nuts, they would not even budge. I managed to start bending my angle iron brace and broke a wheel stud trying with my usual breaker bar. I got a 400 ft-lb air impact gun and tried that - still no luck. This is the first time I have encountered castle nuts self-welded to the CVs. That has turned doing the fronts into a complete hub replacement effort of new everything - including steering arms as one of those will not come off the hub.
I am waiting on parts to trickle in from Mini Sport and Mini Spares. Some have already arrived (those I thought I needed for the initial effort). The rest are in transit as of today.
I hope I can still manage to get it done in time for the TxABCD show at the end of September.
If I was closer I would let you borrow my 1400 ft/lb battery powered impact. I have yet to find a nut it won't remove one way or another.
That sucks. Are you having to cut the castle nuts off?
I'm replacing the hubs, bearings, CV joints, etc. - basically everything. I pulled the hubs and axles today and knocked them off the axles. After looking over the assemblies once free from the car, they are ready for the junk pile.
Will you get it done in time for the upcoming car show?
Quote from: MiniDave on September 01, 2021, 07:23:45 PM
Will you get it done in time for the upcoming car show?
That is my goal. All of the parts ordered are currently in transit and "scheduled" to arrive by Tuesday. I think I have everything I need ordered.
Progress! The right rear (the one with the leaking wheel cylinder and stuck hard line) is now all back together. It has a new hard line, wheel cylinder, bearings, seals, brake shoes, and brake springs.
I hope to get the left rear done tomorrow. It is a repeat of the right with the exception of already having a newer hard line that came off the old wheel cylinder without any problems.
More progress: the left rear is now done and I am moving on to the left front.
I will be taking a break (no pun intended) tomorrow as I have a work related conference with one of the UK guys tomorrow afternoon.
I hope to resume the work on the Mini on Monday and see how far I get.
More progress and another setback. ::)
I got the left front hub assembly built up. I then cleaned the inner pot-joint end to evaluate it and prep for re-greasing it only to discover rust had begun on the ball cage and there was pitting starting on some of the balls. :-[ 50.gif
Time to replace the pot-joints while I am at it. I just put in another Mini Spares order for the pot-joints and diff-cover seals.
Time to go back out and start assembling the right side hub while I still have some ambition. 20.gif
Edit:
I got the right side assembled as well before I "melted" for the day. 98*F temp with 103*F heat index tends to "melt" me rather fast - good for about 4 - 5 hours per day working in the garage.
I just have the steering rack ball joints to replace while waiting for the pot-joints.
Do you have A/C bleed over from the house if you leave a door open and put a box fan in the doorway?
I can't work when it's that hot in the shop, just not possible. Shoot, I get uncomfortable when it gets 80* in my shop, even with the box fan blowing on me - of course, we have humidity.
When it gets that warm with high humidity the shop A/C goes on....best thing I ever did was adding the big window A/C to the shop.
Does anyone know how you get rust pits in a device that's running in grease all the time? I mean, I can understand how it could happen if the boot is torn and most or all of the grease gets washed out and replaced with water and/or dirt.....
I live in an apartment. The garages are in a detached building, downstairs in the parking area.
I do have a small pedestal fan blowing in the garage as I work. It helps a bit, but not a lot.
Edit:
The boot of the one pot joint I cleaned did have some cracking starting, but was still full of really dark (basically black) grease. I had to spray it with quite a bit of brake cleaner to get rid of the grease to inspect the joint and found the rust and pitting.
No way to put a window A/C or something in it?
Nope, no way to put a window unit into it. The apartment management likely would not allow it either.
There is only 1 outlet in each garage ceiling and one of the two plugs is taken by the garage door opener. I use a heavy duty extension cord in the other and watch carefully what I have plugged in at any one time.
I have been hunting for an affordable, small house with at least a 2 car garage. However, the housing prices have been rising significantly while my housing budget stays fixed and available "starter" size homes are few.
You need one of those portable units I use in my condo and bus. Just pop in the vent into the window when you're working and take it out when you're done. No heavy lifting or eye sore like a standard window unit.
I doubt he has a window.....my son had one of those for his garage and just put the hose out the bottom of the door, but it didn't do a thing against Phoenix heat.
Hang in there Michael, I think housing prices are going to soften up a bit as the mortgage delay/forgiveness programs end and some of those folks have to sell....there will be more houses available then so it should stop or at least slow the increases we've been seeing.
I got the next step of progress done today.
I removed the old steering rack ball joints/ends and installed new ones. The new ones are the same type and length as the old ones. I used my digital caliper to measure the length of the old ones on each side from the outer edge to the inner most thread to get a fixed reference point for each side. When I installed the new ends, I set them to the same measurements as an attempt to preserve the toe settings.
I also installed the new brake calipers onto the hoses with new copper washers, drained the oil, and got the old pot-joint shells out of the differential.
Next is to pry out the old diff cover seals for installing new ones with the new pot-joints.
Parts are on the way. They are still "scheduled" for delivery Monday, 13th Sept. though tracking shows they left New York City gateway earlier today. My guess is either tomorrow or Friday for actual delivery.
More progress today - an end is finally in sight.
I got the new pot-joints and seals installed, axle and hub assemblies installed, new calipers installed, ball joints greased, and brake pads installed. I also refilled the engine oil since I had to drain it for changing the pot-joints.
I just have to refill the brake fluid, bleed the brakes, and verify the toe setting. I have a friend coming over in the morning to assist doing the final steps.
Wow, you zoomed right thru this - good job! 77.gif
We did not get as far as I wanted to today.
Bleeding the brakes took a lot longer than anticipated to get fluid back into the lines all the way around. We ended up going to the parts store and buying a vacuum bleeder kit to finally get fluid out to the furthest rear wheel as the pump/hold method was making only tiny progress. Once we got decent fluid at all corners using the vacuum tool, we reverted to the pump/hold method for getting the remaining air out of the lines. We stopped once all four corners had two rounds of clear fluid with no bubbles.
With the wheels back on and the car back on the ground, the toe looks like it definitely needs a bit more attention. We went to Lowes and got some 3/4" pvc pipe and made a "reference square" for doing alignments by myself. This gives me a frame to have a proper parallel reference along each front wheel. later this week I will settle the suspension from being on the jack stands and then use the frame and my toe plates to center the steering and set the toe.
Then I will "test drive" the work around the apartment parking lot to test the results.
Tomorrow I have to help my friend change the alternator on his sister's Kia.
Great progress. I need to get back on mine. Sad I've had it back for a year now. Every time I get going on it something comes up.
Bring the swear jar for that Kia alternator. If it's anything like my friends Hyundai or brother in laws Nissan you going to need it.
I will keep the "Swear Jar" in mind tomorrow.
The alternator job on the Kia was not as bad as anticipated. There were only a couple of "swear jar" moments.
Today I dealt with the toe setting on the Mini. The initial setup had a lot of toe out to it. I started by centering the steering rack and steering wheel. Then I used the pvc frame to get each side real close to straight ahead. Once I had them both near straight, I switched to my toe plates and dialed it in from there. According to the plates and tape measures I have just under 1/4" total toe out. I will see how that turns out.
A quick loop around the apartment parking lot showed I have very little brake pedal, so I need to beld them some more. That will be Wednesday's task.
1/4" toe out is too much 1/16" is plenty
I wouldn't go more than an 1/8th total.
I just dialed mine in the other day as well, it was way off which explains why it was so sketchy in the corners and my tires are so worn on one side.
I looked at the caster/camber gauge thing that Edd used on his orange mini, it was a lot more expensive on mini spares than I thought it ought to be for something so simple. A few days before he updated the vid to link to it I had already contacted Tenhulzen Automotive about their handheld caster/camber gauge to see if it could be easily modified to work with 10" wheels since it says it is only for wheels 12"-22" (it looked like it was just a matter of drilling some new holes). They said the newest version has additional holes that "should" work with 10" wheels, which basically confirmed my thought that it could be easily modified. I thought I might give it a go, it's "digital" and looks to be easy to use.
here is the link if anyone is interested. https://www.wheelalignmenttools.com/product/hand-held-camber-caster-gauge/
Wow, $140 for that....how much is the one from Spares?
I have my friend coming over again Wednesday to assist in bleeding the brakes again. Even though I was getting mo air bubbles and clear fluid, I still have almost no pedal pressure.
After we get the brakes sorted, I will come back to fine tuning the toe setting further.
Quote from: MiniDave on September 13, 2021, 05:22:01 PM
Wow, $140 for that....how much is the one from Spares?
Seems like the string one from mini spares was 75 or 80 pounds so not quite as much but pretty close. It and that toe gauge were about the same price with one of them being slightly closer to 80, can't remember which one.
This is what I use. http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/index.php?topic=1592.0
I have the string one from MiniSpares. I could not wrap my head around how to use it. Anyone that wants to try it I will be glad to send it to you.
I'd give it go, since I taught steering and suspension at college and used the alignment machines with the frickin laser beams, it would be fun to compare. Do you have the floor plates too? If not I need to come up with something for that - and the toe gauge. I had never seen a toe gauge that only did one side, like Edd did on his orange ball....all the ones I've ever used did both sides at once.
Edit: Never mind, my floor is so unlevel that I doubt I could get anything close to accurate.
If it's the one on spares website I'm looking at it says level floors not required.
For caster & camber, I have a tool just like Dan uses. I have a set of the toe plates from Jegs:
https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/81680/10002/-1 (https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/81680/10002/-1)
The plates are significantly longer than the Mini's wheels and the front-to-rear difference gets exaggerated over distance, so that is why I settled on the 1/4" difference yesterday. As noted, once I get the brakes sorted, I will bring in the toe a bit more.
For swivel plates I use two pairs of vinyl floor tiles. I put grease between them with the smooth sides together.
Are your plates the same length as the ones I use? I put all of these tools to good use between a few minis and my bus suspension rebuild. Money well spent!
All the toe plates I have seen are about the same length, heck they are probably all made in the same place. For as simple as they are they sure are expensive, but that is probably down to them being aluminum I suppose. I have a pair of "homemade" ones I use, but they are heavy since they are made out of 14ga steel.
I am going to look into the caster/camber solution you guys are using as I would really like to get something to adjust those numbers.
I have some left over laminate flooring planks I use under the tires, the old original style stuff that was real smooth and would dull a saw blade in about 30 cuts. No grease needed between them as they are super slick when you put them face to face, not really needed on the mini so much but I can put the front end of my 3/4 ton dodge diesel on them and turn the wheel with one finger.
Sorry for hijacking your thread ;D
Quote from: 94touring on September 14, 2021, 07:41:14 AM
Are your plates the same length as the ones I use? I put all of these tools to good use between a few minis and my bus suspension rebuild. Money well spent!
They may well be the same length for much the reasoning cstudep says. The link on Jegs is the exact set I have and they are 24" long.
The 1/4" total toe out I have using the 24" plates works out as 1/8" each side at 24". Using some 24" rulers to replicate and back measuring to the 19.99" of the actual wheel/tire diameter gets me 1/16" each side for 1/8" total toe at 20" plates.
I will still consider another shot at getting it closer after getting the brakes sorted.
The one I have is actually from Calver. If anyone wants to try it.
I ... Have ... Brakes!
Another couple of rounds of bleeding with the vacuum bleeder did the trick.
I also made another slight toe adjustment and now have 1/16" total toe out in the front.
I managed to finish in time for a couple short "shakedown" drive before heading to the Round Rock TxABCD show on Sept 24-26.
71.gif
Perfect!
Great! You got a lot done in a relatively short time.
When I bled the brakes yesterday, I found out my friend that helped me with the "pump & hold" sessions previously had been mistakenly pushing the clutch pedal instead of the brake pedal - too many years driving only automatics.
When I went to do a "parking lot" test of the brakes yesterday, it took pumping the clutch pedal a bit to keep it from trying to grind going into reverse. So this morning I decided to bleed/flush the clutch system as well. It now goes into reverse nice and smoothly even still on high idle with a bit of choke from just starting cold.
One more maintenance item off the list.
My wife, who has driven stick shift cars most of her life until I bought her the first Audi about 20 years ago, now needs me to remind her which pedal to push when she's helping me bleed brakes....so I understand your friend's mistake.
Had the Mini out for a couple errands today as a "shakedown" drive. It performed nicely - good braking, easy shifting, even lost the slight pull left it had previously.
Next is a good wash in prep for the show.