Just made the deposit for it. They stated 4-5 months but you can ask Michael how that went for him. It will be coming over via air freight. Cheaper and get sent straight to Atlanta. All I will have to do is pick it up at the airport. 4.gif
Strap it down right on top of your Mini? ;D
Congrats, glad to see another project moving forward! 4.gif
Wow awesome!
Very cool. Can't wait to hear more about it.
Willie,
Who did you order it from? What did shipping cost. I live close, would be glad to assist with the assembly.
I'm guessing it's a shell for an English Moke to rebuild your Catalina Moke, right?
The shell is from M Parts, http://www.m-parts.co.uk/
Delivered to the Atlanta airport it will be around $10,400. Shipping alone was approx. $1520. Price will change as the exchange rate changes till completed and shipped. I tried to pay the whole amount up front and they said no. Any fees on this end at the airport are extra for me.
Yes on the english moke, it is a MKI. Plan to keep the magic wand but with an updated trans from Guessworks.
There was a learning event based on the experience of them having permitted me to pay the whole build cost up front. It was outside their normal practice and they decided mine was the only exception as it made it difficult for them to keep it prioritized.
The updated transmission from Guessworks sounds familiar. - lol
Nice. When you consider the time and expense of building a total rust bucket Moke you are way ahead of the game just going with a new shell. That and the fact that there is not much if any interior to do and everything else is just so basic plus you already have most if not all of the hard to find parts plus the appreciation aspect it makes sense.
AWESOME!!! Can't wait to see what you do with it when you get it and build it up!
I'm supposed to be building a Moke this spring too - the engine that had been sitting for decades that I got running a few months ago is for that car, Clancy is having the shell painted or powder coated as we speak, so it will be fun to watch yours and MPlayles and Clancy's all coming together at the same time.
After a 16 year hiatus I have begun working on my 82 Moke as well. Looks like a few will be hitting the roads over the next couple of years.
Tim.
Just got an email, they should be finished building it in a few weeks. Then seam seal and underseal and spray. Faster than I had thought. 77.gif
Don't forget that the primer they typically use has poor adhesion and should be removed prior to the nice paintjob you'll have done. At least remove the primer on the exterior areas thay get hit with wind and pressure washers.
Still waiting on the shell. Last time I asked 3 weeks back they said just finished and waiting to do the primer and seam sealer. Same thing they said 3 months back.
I did get the cart almost done. Just need the plywood top and old carpet on that. Probably overkill but I know I will need to roll it across and down the yard to the basement.
Getting the same almost done put off on the transmission. Good Grief.....
If you're going off roading with your cart, I'd suggest having a way to bolt or strap it to the cart. It will try and slide off at the first sign of ground resistance otherwise.
Also, it might be worthwhile to ask them to skip the primer and seam sealer since what they use is essentially garbage. At minimum I suggest sanding down the exterior primer and using a proper epoxy sealer primer. It will provide both adhesion and water resistance above what will be on it.
Quote from: Willie_B on July 16, 2018, 10:52:19 AM
Still waiting on the shell. Last time I asked 3 weeks back they said just finished and waiting to do the primer and seam sealer. Same thing they said 3 months back.
Getting the same almost done put off on the transmission. Good Grief.....
Shoulda sent that engine and tranny to me! ;D 77.gif
Quote from: 94touring on July 16, 2018, 11:17:47 AM
If you're going off roading with your cart, I'd suggest having a way to bolt or strap it to the cart. It will try and slide off at the first sign of ground resistance otherwise.
I was planning to strap the shell down before going off-roading, run two or 3 around it and the cart. Also could run bolts thru any holes in the floor pan area.
A pair of 15' ratchet straps held my shell to its "cart"/dolly just fine - wrapped around the shell and under the dolly. I put old towels over the corners under the straps to minimize rubbing.
Glad I got mine done before the rush!
Still waiting for it. Been told three times now that it will go out in two weeks. Those were months apart.
But I have started removing bits from the old one.
Quote from: Willie_B on August 14, 2018, 08:31:12 AM
Still waiting for it. Been told three times now that it will go out in two weeks. Those were months apart.
But I have started removing bits from the old one.
Mparts is on their own schedule + plan.!
Local guy with the Beach boys Moke= ordered a mess of accessory items .. Rubber plugs / Shift gators. etc.
He has a top to install and needs the hood straps. + and a Repro Rear bumper to really complete it.
1 month ago Most of the items shipped and received.... Still waiting on hood straps + bumper (backorder)
week ago = got a tracking number = YAY!
Shipment delivered== it was a Duplicate of the FIRST Shipment.. OOPS! Still no Bumper + Hood straps.
Quote from: Willie_B on August 14, 2018, 08:31:12 AM
Still waiting for it. Been told three times now that it will go out in two weeks. Those were months apart.
But I have started removing bits from the old one.
Looks like it's going to be a winter project for you.....
I'm getting ready to start on a Moke complete build too, he delivered the nicely powder coated subframes yesterday, now I need to collect all the bits that go on them from another local Mini guy - a guy that I've had "issues" with before - so I can build them up, then someday I'll get the shell and start ordering parts by the ton. His plan is to make it all brand new under the skin, but to leave the patina on the exterior, kinda like the hot rod guys do. I think that will be until he sells the Aquilla race car, then I'll bet he makes the shell like new too. Nothing like doing it twice. This is the same car that I got the engine running for a while ago, the engine had been in storage for 10-15 years but I got it to run in my engine stand and it sounded pretty good. We're not rebuilding it, just cleaned it up, fixed the oil leaks and painted.
Jedduh, can't wait to see you update the thread on the Beach Boys Moke!
Pulled the moke out of the basement to use the grinder to remove the body tag. Don't want all that stuff flying around in there. Also some more interesting stuff found when taking it apart. Not much left for the rear subframe to bolt to.
Although getting the new shell from M-Parts was a long process, it was worth it to me.
My Moke had nothing left for the front mounts of the rear subframe to bolt to except the captive nuts. The entire heal board had rotted away and the "patches" were not full width and did not include anything for the subframe to attach to. The front of the rear subframe fell 3/4" when I went to adjust the floor jack under the rear subframe after putting the body onto the dolly.
Nice clean bare metal parts to work with now. Found one small hole at the top of the gas tank. Both of the tank mounting straps were broken at the bends, so time to do some brazing.
All the seats have some rust/gone areas on the sides that were near the pontoons. Not sure if or how to do something with that.
When checking over the cleaned front subframe I found one cracked weld and two not very good welds. The cracked weld is where the front cross bar attaches at the top.
The not very good welds are on either end of the front cross bar. It seems that the center of the front is made, then welded in, the welds ground down to look like all one part. The welds do not have very good penetration.
I had already planned to do some extra welding and add a brace to where the front of the tie rod goes.
This subframe had never even been used yet!!!
Of course, I am in upstate New York and get word that the shell has landed in Atlanta. Ready to picked up at the airport. I will not be back till the 27th. Had to get the broker to pick it up to take to their warehouse. I hope to get it the 28th.
You'll have something to look forward to when you get home! 77.gif
How's the Merc doing?
So far we have been averaging almost 20mpg this trip. Just went over 4000 total on it so still breaking in. This will our 6th night in a row to stay in it. Still working out the best way to do things. Have been tourist along the Erie canal for the last 2 days. Really interesting.
Where in Upstate NY have you been more specifically? Just curious. Look forward to talking to you about your adventures upon your return!
Picked it up today. Was going to use my sons truck and car trailer but the weather did not look good for an open trailer. So off to U-haul for a truck. Being an enclosed truck we had to load it sideways off the forklift. Getting it out at home was not as bad as I thought it may be. After uncrating most of it I just slid it down the ramp. Once on the ground finish removing the crate and get it on the cart and in the basement. No problems. Glad it is finally here, only took 5 months longer than they said.
Is that all there is to it?
Seems like there should be more parts?
That is the plain shell. Use the side pod covers and other bits from the other one.
Bonnet? Seat shells too?
Yep. If it's bolted or screwed on it does not come with the shell.
No different with a mini shell, it does not include doors, boot or bonnet.
That is how mine was - just the plain shell. I had to order extra a couple of pieces to go with mine to replace what was not reusable.
The bare shell also does not come with the spring clips for the dzus fasteners that normally hold the side covers on. Mine had some broken fasteners that would need replacing as well as getting all new spring clips. That was why I went with the rivnuts instead - much cheaper route for the same results.
I have not decided yet what I will use on the side covers. This is not going to be show build so I am ok using something easier to install and use.
Awesome Willie B...
Quote from: Willie_B on September 28, 2018, 06:21:58 PM
I have not decided yet what I will use on the side covers. This is not going to be show build so I am ok using something easier to install and use.
On my last Aussie Moke restoration i used riv nuts and short stainless phillips head screws on the pontoon covers with an o ring on the back side so the screws would stay with the panel when removed, i lightly lubricated them and never over tightened them so as not to possibly spin the riv nuts. In fact all the outside cosmetic screws and bolts were switched to stainless for a much better look imo.
Steve Gibbs (coopertune) has the engine together. Will see some time on his test stand soon. 60 over 998 whatever that works out to be. 4 sync magic wand box with 3.44fd, cross pin diff and pot joint output.
Cool, hope he does a vid of it running....what carb are you using? HIF38? HS4?
HIF38 on a stock metro manifold.
That should motivate a Moke nicely! 4.gif
It should out perform mine.
Sweet !!!!
Nice! Steve did my 850 for the Moke and the tranny as well. Both work like a thing of beauty! Highly recommended!
What color did you decide to paint your Moke? Is it done yet (the paint)?
I am still doing work on the shell before paint. There are several holes that I have added, and a bunch that I have to plug. I just discovered that the front subframe that I had already painted does not fit right so need to find another to see if it's the shell or subframe that is off. Still need to trial fit the rear to check that out too.
Very light blue is still my first choice. Have not picked a certain shade just yet. The body shop I plan to use is only 2 miles from the house so that will help.
Thanks for the update, wasn't that a new front sub? Broken welds, weak welds and doesn't even fit? Where did it come from so I will never order one from them?
Is it a single bolt or two bolt per side subframe?
Actually, it is more likely the shell need fiddling to get the subframe to fit. I had to make some adjustments to mine and I reused my original front subframe.
The openings in the inner wing where the subframe towers go had too much edging and needed some grinding to fit. (Like taking the flashing off model parts or from a fiberglass molding.)
Quote from: MiniDave on February 20, 2019, 10:24:41 AM
Thanks for the update, wasn't that a new front sub? Broken welds, weak welds and doesn't even fit? Where did it come from so I will never order one from them?
Is it a single bolt or two bolt per side subframe?
All UK, Australian and Chinese Mokes use two bolts per side sub frames Dave. The Portuguese and Cagiva Mokes use the single bolt ones.
Got a tag for the front.
In Georgia I can run a year of manufacture tag on the rear. Still have to have a state issued plate and sticker but it does not need to be mounted (just in the vehicle somewhere) as long as you have the YOM tag registered in the state system. So hunting for a 1966 license plate for the rear. Seen a bunch but nothing that I am willing to buy yet. There are even places that will restore the plate with baked on paint.
I remember when it was only Delaware that had a completely flat (non-embossed) license plate. However my state went to the flat painted-on plates about 12 years ago, and so have a lot of other states too. But the non-embossed plates still look fake to me - like bad movie props.
Deighton got YOM plates for three of his cars, Missouri allows you to register the car under the number on the plate, whatever it is. He had them all refurbished and the absolutely look brandy new.
Dave or Brad do either of you have the contact info for the plate restorers ?
I bought a brand new never issued 68 Florida plate and it is starting to rust and i want to refresh it before it gets too bad, i am guessing they did not make them from aluminum back then.
I'll ask Deighton who did his...they absolutely look brandy new. I think he said baked on enamel.....
Here you go.....
Larry Niederschulte,
816-365-0447,
noomnoen@aol.com,
www.larryslicenseplates.com
Thanks Dave i will get in touch with him.
Just a heads up Dave the website you posted is missing the e in license it should read larryslicenseplates.com.
Thanks again.
Cleaning the wiper motor I got. Even used and needing overhaul they are over $100, already done goes for $350.
These also fit contemporary Land Rovers too. I bet that added demand helps keep the prices high.
Got the last parts in for the wiper motor to finish. Turned out usable.
Nice job!
Yeah! Looks great!
After spending more time than I liked trying to get the front subframe I had to fit I just got a new one from MiniSport. Not cheap but it is a whole lot closer to fitting. It looks like a few minor tweaks and it should work. An extra good thing about it is that has a welded in bracket for a front lower engine steady. Need to fit the front sump guard, special one that were on mokes. Also open up the front mount holes to 1/2" for the tow bar.
Are both subs heritage or one a knockoff?
The front is heritage, don't remember about the rear.
I meant on the fronts. I wonder why one fits better than the other.
The other one came from a pile of parts I bought in years past so...
Is the new one the correct type of tower mounts (single big bolt per side, or two thinner bolts per side)?
It is a twin bolt. In the photo you can see the bolts with heads cut off for use as guide pins when fitting.
Welded in nuts for a sump guard. Anything else I might want to do to the new subframe before paint?
Hopefully go get my mini and the moke powerplant the first week in June.
Had some hats made for mokin'. Extra points for whomever figures out the logo takeoff.
The prancing moose? :-)
What did Steve find wrong with the engine out of your red Mini?
Did you decide on a color for the Moke yet? Red maybe?
The timing chain cover was cracked, that was the major leak. Could not find the rattle and he said it all looked good and ran on the test stand ok. It is back in the car with a few minor items to finish.
Still leaning toward a very light shade of blue.
Quote from: Willie_B on May 25, 2019, 06:10:15 PM
Hopefully go get my mini and the moke powerplant the first week in June.
Had some hats made for mokin'. Extra points for whomever figures out the logo takeoff.
I'll take a shot Brad. Australian slang for a Donkey is Moke or vise versa.
Or maybe you are taking off the Ferrari prancing horse.
Looks good.
Quote from: Jimini II on May 29, 2019, 10:01:38 AM
Quote from: Willie_B on May 25, 2019, 06:10:15 PM
Hopefully go get my mini and the moke powerplant the first week in June.
Had some hats made for mokin'. Extra points for whomever figures out the logo takeoff.
I'll take a shot Brad. Australian slang for a Donkey is Moke or vise versa.
Or maybe you are taking off the Ferrari prancing horse.
Looks good.
You got it Malcolm. Take off from the Ferrari prancing horse.
Drove up to Virginia today so I can go to Coopertunes shop Monday. My mini is ready and the moke engine is ready to run on the test stand. A day hanging out at his shop then load up. Head back home Tuesday early. Only 600 miles back.
Been working on small bits and jobs dragging my feet on getting back to the shell. No good reason for that. The main job I was not looking forward to was fitting the bonnet. Moke bonnets have a habit of spreading at the sides due to handling, mine was no exception. I needed to persuade both sides to a different curve profile so it would line up with the body. My weapon of choice was the top of a power pole that I had cut off. Between that and a couple of hammers, clamps and cresent wrench it looks fine. Because the shell I was sent is a MK2 but my old one is a MK1 the bonnet hinge mounts are in a slightly different location. I had to drill out the welds to remove the mounts. The holes will need to be filled, new hole made and new mounts welded on. So all in about 3 hours in the basement. Now I need to stay with it and get the shell to the paint shop. Still leaning toward a very light blue color.
Progress! 77.gif
Unless you're going for originality, you might consider having the car powder coated rather than painted - the results were fantastic on Clancy's car, and it cost him $1500 inside and out. Plus - no cure time. Once it comes out of the oven, it's done.
To me the only downside is if you get a bad scratch or have to repair something due to a fender bender or somesuch.
Quote from: MiniDave on August 16, 2019, 08:12:34 AM
Unless you're going for originality, you might consider having the car powder coated rather than painted - the results were fantastic on Clancy's car, and it cost him $1500 inside and out. Plus - no cure time. Once it comes out of the oven, it's done.
To me the only downside is if you get a bad scratch or have to repair something due to a fender bender or somesuch.
I was surprised about how low the price was for the powder coating. I might go by the place I use and inquire. From the small bits they have done in the past I would not expect as god a deal. I am over thirty parts besides the body that need to be in the same body color. Maybe with powder instead of paint getting a match should be easier though.
I wonder: does powdercoating hold up under UV light well? As well as regular paint? Wouldn't want the sun to change the color.
What about pre existing dings or deep scratches on the body?
Quote from: Willie_B on April 09, 2019, 02:01:36 PM
After spending more time than I liked trying to get the front subframe I had to fit I just got a new one from MiniSport. Not cheap but it is a whole lot closer to fitting. It looks like a few minor tweaks and it should work. An extra good thing about it is that has a welded in bracket for a front lower engine steady. Need to fit the front sump guard, special one that were on mokes. Also open up the front mount holes to 1/2" for the tow bar.
How do you get those tower guide studs out once the subframe is in? did you slot them for a screwdriver so you could back them out? Don't know why the factory didn't just use studs, guide it in and nut it up....done.
Quote from: BruceK on August 16, 2019, 08:49:01 AM
I wonder: does powdercoating hold up under UV light well? As well as regular paint? Wouldn't want the sun to change the color.
My understanding is it has UV inhibitors like paint does.....no idea how long it lasts before fading, could be decades or years. But considering how little these cars are actually in the sun, I don't think I'd worry about it.
Quote from: 94touring on August 16, 2019, 08:51:28 AM
What about pre existing dings or deep scratches on the body?
You'd have to metal finish them I guess......you'd know more about it than me.
Quote from: Willie_B on August 16, 2019, 08:21:02 AM
I was surprised about how low the price was for the powder coating. I might go by the place I use and inquire. From the small bits they have done in the past I would not expect as god a deal. I am over thirty pats besides the body that need to be in the same body color. Maybe with powder instead of paint getting a match should be easier though.
Should match perfectly, yes. Clancy has it soda blasted first, then coated.
Quote from: MiniDave on August 16, 2019, 09:53:44 AM
Quote from: Willie_B on April 09, 2019, 02:01:36 PM
After spending more time than I liked trying to get the front subframe I had to fit I just got a new one from MiniSport. Not cheap but it is a whole lot closer to fitting. It looks like a few minor tweaks and it should work. An extra good thing about it is that has a welded in bracket for a front lower engine steady. Need to fit the front sump guard, special one that were on mokes. Also open up the front mount holes to 1/2" for the tow bar.
How do you get those tower guide studs out once the subframe is in? did you slot them for a screwdriver so you could back them out? Don't know why the factory didn't just use studs, guide it in and nut it up....done.
The guide studs I made are just put in hand tight. If need be I can grab it with pliers to remove.
Next up on the get creative list was the fuel pump mount. I did not want to drill holes in the top of the side pannier so I hung the bracket in the side of the compartment. The bracket is a galvanized piece from Home Depot for deck building. Hung it with two exhaust rubber bobbins to cushion it. I hope the pump does not mind being upside down.
All my fill-in pieces to patch unwanted holes are made. I need to get a neighbors stuff off my trailer so I can take the shell to a good welder to have them tig welded in.
After that then have the body dustless blasted clean as the primer they used does not stick at all.
Then final go over and off to the painter.
You asked about preexisting dings and scratches and powder coating? One thing is certain, you can't use bondo and powder coat. I guess you would have to resort to the old method of "leading" the dents. Not for the novice and not sure many folks could do it now.
Actually, I think they do have a type of "Bondo" that works in the powdercoating oven.....seems the guys I use told me that. I'll have to ask.....
Edit: Yes, it's not exactly Bondo, but there is a product you can use to fill dings before powder coating....
https://www.alvinproducts.com/In-The-News/ID/8/Epoxy-Putty-for-Powder-Coating (https://www.alvinproducts.com/In-The-News/ID/8/Epoxy-Putty-for-Powder-Coating)
Just dropped the moke off with the guy that's doing the welding. Feel good about him. 30x40 shop behind his house. Him and 2 young teen sons working on a couple of go carts. He seemed excited about the moke. Used the mower to tow it up from the basement. Son was over for breakfast so he had to work for it.
Wait a minute!!!
I'll work for a good breakfast!!!!
Looks like a fun project
Looking real good! Glad to see that you have fixed all the areas that the shell was incorrect. I know it will be a near perfect Moke when you get finished as you have gone to such detail to make everything correct. Are you going to do the bodywork and paint yourself or send it out? Once you get to the reassembly point give me a shout and I'll come down and help. Fun fun fun!
Yet another learning opportunity. Dzus fasteners for some of the covers. I removed all the ones from the old covers before blasting. So I needed to install new ones. Learned that there is a aluminum grommet that goes in the hole first. Online searching came up with a way to fold over the rear of the grommet, who needs that fancy/expensive tool anyway. Angle head screw to start the fold over process. Bolt & washer to finish. I will use either a flat plastic push on washer or a spring clip to hold the fastener in place.
The item list of stuff that has to be painted body color grows. In addition to the body the list is close to 50 extra bits. From side covers and dash panel to bolts and dzus fasteners.
You can do the same with rivnuts, I think they tighten up better that way anyway!
Don't forget about rivitting in the spring piece of the Dzus fastener to the inside of the matching body hole.
I went a budget route when I did my Moke: I went with riv-nuts and bolts instead of Dzus fasteners. (I know, not factory proper. However, Dzus fasteners cost considerably more and I did not find anything describing the shortcut Brad found for the washer installation.)
Quote from: MPlayle on December 29, 2019, 02:27:37 PM
Don't forget about rivitting in the spring piece of the Dzus fastener to the inside of the matching body hole.
I went a budget route when I did my Moke: I went with riv-nuts and bolts instead of Dzus fasteners. (I know, not factory proper. However, Dzus fasteners cost considerably more and I did not find anything describing the shortcut Brad found for the washer installation.)
I did the same thing on my last Moke build, used stainless phillips head bolts with an O ring on the bolt to stop it falling out when the covers were removed.
The problem I find is removing the covers without chipping the paint on the factory fasteners, they would be better off plated or chromed if you are not going for a stock look.
I think I have the holes for stuff drilled and a final go over looking for high spots that needed knocking down. Monday and Tuesday is supposed to rain here so I moved the moke from the basement to the garage. It is ready to go have the crappy primer blasted off and good epoxy primer sprayed on. The blaster place is right next door to the body shop so it will just be rolled from one to the other. It was the bodyshops idea to do that.
The body is blasted clean top, bottom and inside pontoons. Said it took two hours total. Now it is at the body shop getting a shot of primer.
Guy at the powder coating place that did the blasting had a good idea. He said the painter does like spraying small/light parts as they tend to fly around and be difficult. So he said pick a powder coat color that I think I want the body to be and then let the body shop match the paint to that for the larger stuff and have the small/light stuff powder coated. That's a great idea and probably cheaper too. So I just sent off for three sample colors to see what I think of them. Still leaning toward a very light blue.
Nice....
"Leaning towards a very light blue" with a big wide orange stripe down the middle like Gulf colors.
I think I saw a Moke painted like that - maybe on the uk mokeclub.org site somewhere or in the mag - great club!
Oh - and that car was looking very good!
(https://i.imgur.com/mypYC16.jpg)
Quote from: pbraun on March 16, 2020, 10:02:58 AM
I think I saw a Moke painted like that - maybe on the uk mokeclub.org site somewhere or in the mag - great club!
Oh - and that car was looking very good!
(https://i.imgur.com/mypYC16.jpg)
Probably close to that light blue. But no center stripes.
Quote from: Willie_B on March 16, 2020, 10:37:22 AM
Quote from: pbraun on March 16, 2020, 10:02:58 AM
I think I saw a Moke painted like that - maybe on the uk mokeclub.org site somewhere or in the mag - great club!
Oh - and that car was looking very good!
Probably close to that light blue. But no center stripes.
No center stripes? Well you're not going to win Le Mans then. ;D
Quote from: Willie_B on March 16, 2020, 10:37:22 AM
Quote from: pbraun on March 16, 2020, 10:02:58 AM
I think I saw a Moke painted like that - maybe on the uk mokeclub.org site somewhere or in the mag - great club!
Oh - and that car was looking very good!
(https://i.imgur.com/mypYC16.jpg)
Probably close to that light blue. But no center stripes.
I believe speedwell blue was close to that color maybe a little greyer though.
There's a modern Fiat 500 color like that you may like. Always helpful to use a production color for touchup paint availability and matching down the road.
And there is an even lighter blue.
Looking through the spares collection for washers for the rear hubs. Goes between the bearing and nut. Found 3 different OD sizes. Does it really matter?
No, only the ID matters, and the thickness
Quote from: MiniDave on March 20, 2020, 12:50:51 PM
No, only the ID matters, and the thickness
That's what i was thinking. Thanks
Got small bits back from the powder coaters today. I am really liking it.
So, I ask for my friend Jose who is in Miami - he may sign up here - but in the mean while I will ask this question for WillieB and MPlaye or whoever else has brought in a Moke shell:
How much is the import duty or whatever charges the US Customs make?
Please reply here As Soon As Possible as he is trying to decide between a new shell from Moke Panels or bits and welding.....
Thanks in advance !!!!!
I don't recall the breakdown of costs but I was into the new shell $10,500 delivered. Found it was cheaper to air freight to the Atlanta airport than ship to the port in Savannah. That included the customs broker and al US fees.
My costs came out similar to Brad's (Willie_B). Mine came by ship into Galveston then truck to San Antonio. I may have had a bit more in transport costs with the extra truck freight. The shipping coordination and fees for by boat turned out a bigger hassle than air-freight would have been.
I would recommend following Brad's option of using air-freight if possible.
I went the new shell route as mine needed many new panels (complete floors and both complete pontoons, plus toe panel/firewall and heel panel, and front panel). I did not have any welding skills/equipment and no place local to have the work done affordably. I did have garage space to disassemble the old and reassemble into the new. So that was the path I took.
Thanks, guys! This helps Jose who is thinking about a door to door delivery in the Miami area. We haven't discussed air freight v. ship followed by truck. His cost for a shell is now about $9700 plus the shipping, so he is evaluating that.
Quote from: pbraun on June 19, 2020, 05:47:40 AM
Thanks, guys! This helps Jose who is thinking about a door to door delivery in the Miami area. We haven't discussed air freight v. ship followed by truck. His cost for a shell is now about $9700 plus the shipping, so he is evaluating that.
Jose left me a PM but the phone number he left does not work. Can you PM me his contact info?
Thanks
Ok, got it figured out. He was off on the number he left me. Got the correct one now.
he also wants to know what customs charges like duty, etc.. tax? or what ever else are likely to be a cost when importing. bc - you could help answer that
Michael and I both have talked to Jose today. Really nice and interesting fellow. The moke he got is the latest British car he has. It will be in good hands.
Yes - I know Jose through big Healeys of which we both have 63 BJ7s. He has rebuilt a lot of cars but was a little unsure of the Moke, but now is glad to have it as a project. He came to me initially on this project for some ID and sources. Well on his way now he is.
Weather too variable to do body sanding outside. So basement worktime instead.
I am using an HIF38 carb on the new engine. In an effort to keep things looking stock though I plan to use an original 850 air filter housing. I will make a spacer to raise the filter housing up 1/2" so it will clear the dash pot top. This makes the screw shaft for the wingnut too short. My plan was to ad to the bottom of the wingnut. Took a coupling and turned it down on the lathe. Then had it welded onto the wingnut. That did not work as it also welded onto the bolt that was holding the 2 parts together. Next plan was to try to braze it on. It has been decades since I last did brazing so that did not turn out well either. By now I am getting faster turning the couplers on the lathe. Number 3 I figured to solder in together. Less heat and better control. After all it is not a high stress item.
Third time's a charm, right? 77.gif
That little lathe is sure becoming useful, isn't it?
Quote from: MiniDave on June 23, 2020, 10:59:53 AM
That little lathe is sure becoming useful, isn't it?
\
It does open up another level of stuff making ability.
Nice job 4.gif
Is the 850 air filter housing going to permit sufficient air flow for the larger engine and carb? (Or is the engine remaining an 850?)
Very clever. And I really like the idea of keeping the old air cleaner for that original look
I thought about adding an extra hole two in housing but the is not much extra room available for that. I figure most of the time is just cruising anyway.
The new engine is a 60 over 998, so a 1047.
Got the spacer turned. At lot of my time is spent just figuring out how to do what I want. Now I need to find where I put the flat o ring that goes on there. I know I got some.
Man, I need one of those small lathes.......and room to put it somewhere! ::)
The powder coater got it wrong. Was supposed to be black, not body color. He will redo it black no problem. What do you guys think?
I like it, unless you're going for the original look, I'd leave it. You can always change it later if you decide you hate it.
Actually , I liked it silver too.
The blue looks good to me - ! 4.gif
Drug out working on the top but finally got it done. Flip it over onto the other cart so I can work on the bottom. Seam seal where needed then sand. At least it does not need sanding to the level of the top side.
;D
Are you using anything special on the bottom, like chip seal?
Quote from: MiniDave on August 15, 2020, 10:05:14 AM
Are you using anything special on the bottom, like chip seal?
I had not planned on using it. Not like it will really be used off road. Guess I will ask the body shop about it as all they do it customs and hotrods.
While the shell is upsidedown I put the subframes in place. Or tried to. The rear sub is one I got secondhand but new several years back. It looks like it was built wrong as it is racked more than 1/2". When I align the front the back part is shifted 1/2"+ to the side so not enough room to install the mount. Too far out to try to tweak it to fit. I suspect that it is not a genuine sub as the guy I got it from imported and flipped minis so I doubt he bought higher priced repair parts. SO, just ordered a genuine rear sub.
The front sub looks like I will need spacers for several of the mounts also. It is new too but it is off the same as another front that I tried. It would not surprise me if that means the shell is slightly off from what I had to deal with so far with it.
Wonder who made the rear sub. I've used a number of knockoff rear subs with no issues.
It is most likely a combination of both the subframe and the shell being slightly off.
I had to do a bit of finessing mine when I assembled it and I used a totally new, genuine rear subframe.
I was able to finesse it by getting the front mounts started, but not fully tightened. Then I used a couple of larger drifts and Phillips head screwdrivers to work the rear mounts into alignment and then installed the rear mount bolts and snugged them (but not yet totally tight). I then went back and tightened the front mounts all the way, then finished up the rears.
I will say new bushings can create some hassle. I've always loosely gotten everything started and then tightened down.
This how far off the rear is.
I see a close up of a subframe stud with something rubber looking on it. Can't tell whats around it. 8.gif
The blue part is just covering the threads. This is the rear mount for the rear subframe. Shows how far it is racked to one side. Too much to force fit it. Another should be delivered Tuesday according to DHL.
Must be playing mind games on me cause I can't see where the trunion would mount to. If it's not too much hassle, I might be interested in taking the subframe off your hands.
I think the blue covering is over the threads of the shaft for the trunion to mount on the subframe.
The holes in the plate directly under each trunion shaft are where the trunion mounts to the body?
Yes, but where are the holes on the shell? Lol. I think I see them.
Quote from: 94touring on August 27, 2020, 01:34:09 PM
Yes, but where are the holes on the shell? Lol. I think I see them.
The first pic you see both holes. Second pic you can just see a tiny part of the forward hole peeking out from the sub. That is how far off it is.
I did not see any shipping damage when I unwrapped after I bought it. I can cross measure it and see the difference there. The shell measures almost square.
Have dimensions of your subby studs? I can measure against a heritage frame I have.
Something off. You can check dimensions in Roy Scott's book, I'm sure.
Just picked a scrap hydro subframe today. Need to remove all the stuff on it to make it light enough to move, then clean it up and test fit. it. It is too far gone with rust to use but should work for a test fit. Cost nothing but the time to go get it. Anybody need any rear hydro stuff?
Quote from: Willie_B on August 29, 2020, 04:55:20 PM
Just picked a scrap hydro subframe today. Need to remove all the stuff on it to make it light enough to move, then clean it up and test fit. it. It is too far gone with rust to use but should work for a test fit. Cost nothing but the time to go get it. Anybody need any rear hydro stuff?
Hang on to the hydro stuff. Somebody will want it eventually, especially if you throw it out. I know this.
The NEW sub fits perfect. Now to make some shims for the rear of the front sub that does not fit tight to the shell.
That solves that. Do you know who made the other subframe?
Quote from: 94touring on September 02, 2020, 10:26:06 AM
That solves that. Do you know who made the other subframe?
No idea.
Also the new mowog sub is made with thinner metal than the aftermarket one. 1.2mm vs 1.5mm.
Hmm interesting.
That's great news! I'm sure I'm not the only one who was a little worried that perhaps there was a problem with the Moke shell. Turns out it's perfect.
Interesting. I got one from Mintek and it was fine!
If you don't have a use for that bad rear frame, I could use it for my rear engine project - I'll just be cutting it up into pieces anyway so being off square won't be a problem.
Quote from: MiniDave on September 08, 2020, 06:44:20 AM
If you don't have a use for that bad rear frame, I could use it for my rear engine project - I'll just be cutting it up into pieces anyway so being off square won't be a problem.
I have a couple you can have. Come get them!
Just visited the body shop and he said to he should have room for the moke next Friday the 9th. He has been very busy lately.
Shop has been doing paint jobs for a guy that is building first gen Broncos from new shells and modern mechanicals. Guy said he has orders for 30 so far.
Wow, just when I think the economy is about to tank, I read something like this! 30 "new" Bronco orders???
Can't wait to see the Moke get color at last!
Looks like the place that does the Broncos is only 25 minutes from home.
https://www.facebook.com/VintageBroncos/
Wonder what they get for one?
According to their website inventory, 89k to 149k. There are 2020 Broncos listed there for 199k.
Quote from: Willie_B on October 02, 2020, 11:41:23 AM
According to their website inventory, 89k to 149k. There are 2020 Broncos listed there for 199k.
Why don't they just list the 2020 Broncos for a gazillion trillion billion dollars?
Quote from: BruceK on October 02, 2020, 12:07:25 PM
Quote from: Willie_B on October 02, 2020, 11:41:23 AM
According to their website inventory, 89k to 149k. There are 2020 Broncos listed there for 199k.
Why don't they just list the 2020 Broncos for a gazillion trillion billion dollars?
:D
So before the shell goes to paint I have been going over photos to make sure if I need to drill any more holes or anything else. Did find a couple of holes to add but also saw a welded on nut that was needed. Not able or willing to weld a nut on at this stage, more so as it is on the passenger side of the firewall for all to see.
Time to get creative yet again. Can you put a nutsert inside a nut??? Yes with a little work. Find the right size nut. Trim the nutsert down to the length needed. Drill out the inside of the nut so it will fit over the nutsert, then counterbore the inside a tiny bit so it will fit over the crimp part. A bit of JBWeld to hold the nut on and should be good to go. As the nut is just a cover for the nutsert glueing it on should work ok. It will be painted over when the shell gets done.
The last photo shows where I save the little plastic parts that bits come in to mix things like epoxy or JBWeld in to keep it contained.
Cool solution!
Speaking of Mokes, I ordered a steel Moke seat today for Clancy's Moke, $310 plus shipping for one bare, steel seat! Crikeys! :-\
Original UK Moke steel seats have been known to go for as much as $1000 each! Talk about crazy.
Off to the body shop for paint. Bout time.
Another part for the moke is close to being done. I got a new commission number plate but they do not come with the red printed info on them. Asked a friend that does screen printing if he could do it. Just got this photo of it. Now I need to send it off for the stamping part to be added.
No idea how to change the file type so it just shows up without having to download it.
Here ya go
Needs clearcoat. Then flip it over to paint the top side. Plus the 15 other parts with it. My paint parts list was pushing 50 parts. Decided to have all the small bits powercoated.
Maybe I could that truck hood in the background for a top. Wonder if they would miss it...
Wow, almost 3 years so far since you ordered it.....I can't remember, do you already have the engine for it built and ready to go?
Quote from: MiniDave on October 22, 2020, 11:20:22 AM
Wow, almost 3 years so far since you ordered it.....I can't remember, do you already have the engine for it built and ready to go?
Yes, the engine and all is ready to go. I am in the process of building both subframes now. Being as there is zero access from the front then the complete subframe/engine all goes from underneath. All the other bits are rebuilt and ready to for the build. New wiring harness to make sure no smoke escapes. Will use a 5 amp temp fuse on the ground side of the battery just for extra feel good.
Looking good! Now to put things where they go!
I really like the color 4.gif
Quote from: 94touring on October 23, 2020, 06:46:29 AM
I really like the color 4.gif
I picked the powder coating color first and had the paint matched to that. Color is called Troll Blue.
I was going to ask what color that was. Looks good.
While working on putting the front subframe together today I had a difficult time getting a couple of fasteners tight. On one of the lower arm pivot shafts the threads stripped off. On both of the upper arms pivot shaft the rear lock washer did its best to become un-round. All are brand new. So into the spares bin to pull out a good old pivot shafts for both lower arms, glad I kept them. Also grab some grade 8 lock washers for the uppers.
A lot of people have been complaining about the quality of parts being supplied lately.....that is some real crap looking metal there.....
If you had your subframes powdercoated, you will need to clean out the holes with a file or take some metal off the D shaped part that fits in the hole, ask me how I know! I chose to clean out the holes with a file - it takes all the corrosion protection off so I made sure to put some lithium grease on those surfaces.
I thought I could just pull them into place with the nuts - they didn't go.
Wow! It should be extremely hard to strip one of those.
I know, only calls for 35ft lbs so jeepers.
I've always just done them good and tight. Last thing I'd expect is stripping one.
Terrible Chinese metallurgy - pot metal - cheap parts.
When I ran the plant I stopped used Chinese bearings after one try, you never knew what you would get - they might be fine or they might last 15 min....
Down side of fine threads. Threads looks like they just sheared off. Too soft material may not help[ either.
I've always considered fine as being stronger. Maybe Brad just doesn't know his own strength.
You would be correct in your assumption. Fine threading has a higher tensile strength and slightly better shear strength for comparable fastener sizes. The torque values created are also more accurate. It's also generally better in high vibration situations as the shallow pitch of the thread is more resistant to loosening from vibrations. The differences are not large though.
One of the down sides is they are a whole lot easier to cross thread, and if you have a particularly long fastener to deal with the time it takes to thread it in can be a lot longer. Only a real hassle when your dealing with one of those bolts that you can't actually see, can only get a wrench on while standing on your head, and you can only rotate said wrench about 20 degrees before having to reposition the wrench. That bolt is also always about 1.5" longer than it seems it needed to be.
That was the torsion bolts on my Toyota. Could get a tool on them but gravity was against you and I swear those things were 6 inches long and under tension the whole time. Whole reason I bought my electric impact driver. Wedge the wrench on the nut and pull the trigger. Even then it seemed like forever.
Body is done. Will not be able to get it till Monday due to weather and the shop being closed for a long weekend. So started on the rear subframe. Lets start with the swingarms. Got the right side in with a little bit of figuring how to hold what where. Then decided to put the subframe mount in. Dang it, the nut on the end is BEHIND the swingarm. Will have to pull the swingarm back out. Must be time to quit for the day.
An interesting bit of info on the Ho-Los. I am using an old set from Ripspeed that uses a long allen that goes thru the center of the donut to adjust the height, front and rear. When they were designed it was made to use an already existing rubber boot from elsewhere in the mini to cover the lower part where the screw shaft goes onto the knuckle joint or the long shaft for the rear. You see it in the photo. It keeps all the crud out of the threaded part. There are no locking nuts there so easy to cover it. Cool idea.
Now a technical question. For the rear wheel bearings I have a set of Timkin roller bearings and an NOS set of regular ball bearing wheel bearings. I thought I read somewhere that for non drive rear wheels that ball bearings may be better. So which to use and why?
When you flip it over, the knuckles will come out of the sockets and pull the rubbers off, cause it's the shocks that hold the swingarms up. PITA
Better how?
I can't imagine one being better than the other, as long as they're set up right.
Quote from: MiniDave on October 28, 2020, 04:04:30 PM
Better how?
I can't imagine one being better than the other, as long as they're set up right.
Ok, maybe not better but as there is not as much side load that ball bearings would be no problem. Can't get much lighter and minimal side load than the rear of a moke...
I have not heard about those older style Hi-Lo's for at least 30 years. Or more. Need a big long Allen key if I remember correctly.
Quote from: Willie_B on October 28, 2020, 04:55:07 PM
Quote from: MiniDave on October 28, 2020, 04:04:30 PM
Better how?
I can't imagine one being better than the other, as long as they're set up right.
Ok, maybe not better but as there is not as much side load that ball bearings would be no problem. Can't get much lighter and minimal side load than the rear of a Moke...
True enough! OK, again....I think either set will work fine as long as they're set up right.
Quote from: Willie_B on October 28, 2020, 04:03:06 PM
Now a technical question. For the rear wheel bearings I have a set of Timkin roller bearings and an NOS set of regular ball bearing wheel bearings. I thought I read somewhere that for non drive rear wheels that ball bearings may be better. So which to use and why?
Less friction, wheels will spin more freely with the ball bearings. That's my understanding and experience anyways.
As for Dave's comment about keeping the knuckle joint from coming apart when the swing arm droops fully since no shock is holding it up, do what was done for shipping the completed subframe to me for my Moke restoration: large zip-ties around the frame and swing arm to keep them from moving.
I am not a badge guy. So for the "MOKE" badge on the front I made it removable. I cut a very thin piece of steel duct work and sized it to fit behind the badge. Then glued it on. On the backside of the grille where the badge goes is a rare earth magnet. So at a show I can apply it, then remove it later. No driving with it on as I figure vibration could cause scratches.
Great idea! Rare earth magnets are generally pretty strong, you could probably even glue some felt or something to the back of the metal to reduce the chances of scratching anything while putting it on and taking it off.
Just picked it up.
Sweet
I like that colour.
What colour are the top and seat cushions (presuming you are fitting them) going to be?
Top and seat cushions will be navy blue. Going to have a second set of seat cushions made with blue digital camo cloth on them.
This plastic tag was under one of the VIN plate rivets on the old moke. Is this a factory thing or maybe a USA thing? Before I rivet it on again.
I have been led to believe that was a California thing - to add that tag to vehicles imported into that state to indicate "California Approved".
Quote from: MPlayle on November 08, 2020, 03:50:19 PM
I have been led to believe that was a California thing - to add that tag to vehicles imported into that state to indicate "California Approved".
Could be as it was sold new from a dealer in Compton, CA.
Quote from: Willie_B on November 05, 2020, 04:55:58 PM
Top and seat cushions will be navy blue. Going to have a second set of seat cushions made with blue digital camo cloth on them.
Sounds and should look great.
Small bits but it's started. I don't want to ad too much as I am planning to lift the whole body to install the complete front subframe from underneath.
Good solution on the badge! One bit at a time!
Trying to coat all the areas that don't get paint into them. Lots of those on a moke. Spray it in, wipe the runoff and excess. Think I am going to be cleaning up the excess for quite a while. I got a 30" tube with spray end to really get inside some of the places. While doing that outside I found some places underneath that need seam sealer. Trying to get all this done before adding the heavy bits that would make it a challenge to roll it outside. Already got fussed at for doing some painting in the basement. No more of that.
Why are you going to this much trouble? I know you've spent a ton of time and money on it and want a perfect result, but do you think it will rust in your lifetime?
And I agree, you'll be cleaning that up for a good while, especially on a really hot day if it's been sitting in the sun - if that stuff is anything like Waxoil, it will flow again when it gets hot out.
Know what you mean about painting inside - I tried it on one small part and it stunk up the house for days. Shoot, even when I paint parts outside, if I bring them in too soon the VOC's can get pretty strong.
Where would someone find a can of that stuff?
Quote from: 94touring on November 22, 2020, 12:43:23 PM
Where would someone find a can of that stuff?
From these folks that make it in the USA. It comes out like water so it will penetrate any and all seams.
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/
I used their gas tank cleaning and coating stuff for the moke tank and it looks super.
Quote from: MiniDave on November 22, 2020, 12:33:08 PM
Why are you going to this much trouble? I know you've spent a ton of time and money on it and want a perfect result, but do you think it will rust in your lifetime?
Just the way I like to do things. Now is the time. Do it right the first time kinda of stuff. The spray can of it costs $25 and I figure my time is free so why not eliminate the concern up front.
Quote from: Willie_B on November 22, 2020, 12:55:16 PM
Quote from: 94touring on November 22, 2020, 12:43:23 PM
Where would someone find a can of that stuff?
From these folks that make it in the USA. It comes out like water so it will penetrate any and all seams.
https://www.kbs-coatings.com/
Ordered a can with the 360 spray wand.
Edit: 15% off using this link to anyone else considering a purchase. http://kbscoatings.refr.cc/danielstoughton
Quote from: Willie_B on November 22, 2020, 01:00:18 PM
Quote from: MiniDave on November 22, 2020, 12:33:08 PM
Why are you going to this much trouble? I know you've spent a ton of time and money on it and want a perfect result, but do you think it will rust in your lifetime?
Just the way I like to do things. Now is the time. Do it right the first time kinda of stuff. The spray can of it costs $25 and I figure my time is free so why not eliminate the concern up front.
I can appreciate that.... 77.gif
Well this is convenient. I was just looking into tank sealer stuff for something completely unrelated.
While waiting for some parts to arrive I decided to check out the wiring harness. Looked scary rolled up and stuffed in the bag. Not too bad draped out on the moke.
The harness has a light for the oil filter switch. Guess that was a part of the cannister style filter housing. Won't be using that. Also has a light for oil pressure but I will be using a guage. Might "T" the oil pressure at the block and run both.
Quote from: Willie_B on December 03, 2020, 03:41:11 PM
The harness has a light for the oil filter switch. Guess that was a part of the cannister style filter housing. Won't be using that. Also has a light for oil pressure but I will be using a guage. Might "T" the oil pressure at the block and run both.
That is what I did when I added a oil and temp gauge to my Moke.
I also used a braided line for the oil pressure gauge, I am not a fan of the copper and especially the plastic lines.
Slow day on the moke. Still sorting the wiring and the extra harnesses that came with it. Got all but one extra wire sorted.
I am using stainless hardware for some of the parts that bolt to the body. Did not like the writing that is made into the bolts, just does not look good. So stick em in the lathe and off with it. I can live with this. Yeah, it's a little thing but now is the time to do it.
That's probably why the previous owner of mine used a bunch of chrome bolts since they are smooth and shiny.
Quote from: Willie_B on December 06, 2020, 04:11:48 PM
Slow day on the moke. Still sorting the wiring and the extra harnesses that came with it. Got all but one extra wire sorted.
I am using stainless hardware for some of the parts that bolt to the body. Did not like the writing that is made into the bolts, just does not look good. So stick em in the lathe and off with it. I can live with this. Yeah, it's a little thing but now is the time to do it.
If you don't have a lathe a piece of sandpaper on the drill press table and chuck the bolt in the drill press works nice. I do this to any bolts I use on old equipment restoration and a lot on cars as well. On my mini I spent time using all correct head marked bolts like bees, linreed, Wiley.
Looking good!
Quote from: Willie_B on December 06, 2020, 04:11:48 PM
Slow day on the moke. Still sorting the wiring and the extra harnesses that came with it. Got all but one extra wire sorted.
I am using stainless hardware for some of the parts that bolt to the body. Did not like the writing that is made into the bolts, just does not look good. So stick em in the lathe and off with it. I can live with this. Yeah, it's a little thing but now is the time to do it.
I found some phillip's head and allen head stainless bolts for my Moke that I used on the windshield frame and grab handles.
More fun with the moke.
For the wiring harness down the left side from engine compartment to the rear of the side pontoons. There are 5 holes it goes thru, 4 of them are different sizes although the harness is the same size all the way...
Then I noticed that the grommet in the hole right next to the fuel tank had come loose. Of course I did not see this till the tank was installed. That limits the working room to next to nothing. Had to take the fuel pump out to gain what little room there is.
Another after the tank install gotcha was the fuel line out of the tank. I thought the metal tube would be closer to the opening. NOT, it's an 1-1/2" back. Good thing that I have not put the plate in that goes under the whole tank area. Out with a 12" long 1/4" extension to go up beside the tank to reach the hose clamp...
Sounds fun!
I had to cut stuff out of the old body so I am not sure how it goes back together. So two steps forward and a half stumble back. Still enjoying it all.
It's a voyage of discovery.... 77.gif
I am not sure of how much you had left from the rusty shell Brad.
From the fuel tank it should have a 2 to 3 inch piece of rubber fuel line then it attaches to 1/4 inch metal fuel line and is routed into the tub area Where a cover covers it and the wiring harness.
It then goes through the bulkhead where another piece of fuel line attaches it to the carb.
Somewhere in that set up a fuel filter is a worthwhile addition.
Hung up on what should be something simple. Where the handbrake cables go through the body. Which way should the cut in the seal point? Seems to me the cable should pass over the solid part of the rubber so it won't slip thru. But the seals don't line up top and bottom when doing it that way.
Brad,
You should have 4 of those plates - two for each cable. The "humps" align opposite each other to form a tunnel for the cable to pass through with one plate on top of the floor tunnel and the other underneath. The opening of the "hump" of the plate on top goes toward the front of the Moke. The plate on the bottom faces the rear of the Moke. The seals on mine mounted from underneath the floor tunnel.
I have four plates and four seals. I was thinking one seal went under the top plate and one went under the bottom plate. But you are saying both seals go under the bottom plate?
They all sandwich together but now I can't think which direction the seal goes either.
I'd do them in this direction.
The way Michael describes it correct, but I only put the rubber seal on the bottom....on a Moke it won't matter anyway if the top seal isn't there.....
Mine only had one seal for each pair. If using all 4 seals, then one goes between each plate and the floor tunnel.
Sandwich style of: plate - seal - tunnel - seal - plate.
Right, I found that dragged pretty hard on the cable, so I just used one on the bottom side. It's just to keep splashes and such out of the inside of the car, so it's not a critical item to have two rubbers
I will give the one seal on the bottom side a go. Thanks all.
Fun times. All this has to go through that one grommet. It all fits just do the light sockets first then the rest in the order it's in. Should finish the rest of the wiring tomorrow.
Quote from: Willie_B on January 06, 2021, 06:27:40 PM
Fun times. All this has to go through that one grommet. It all fits just do the light sockets first then the rest in the order it's in. Should finish the rest of the wiring tomorrow.
Would it be any easier to get everything through the grommet before the grommet is sitting in the hole? Threaded all through the hole, then the grommet, and then later seat the grommet within the hole?
I don't know, I'm just thinking of alternatives.
Yes. That is why it is all on the table. Already have all thru the grommet and back hanging on the moke. I was told my work time was done for the day. Yes dear...
Yea there was a tiny spot in the engine bay of the mini that was fun to get all the wires through. Especially all the bulb sockets for the dash. One by one.
The friend that is making the seat covers droped them off today. Got two sets. One in navy blue vinyl, the other set has vinyl backs and blue digital camo cloth on the front. The camo ones should be more comfortable in the summer.
Those look great Brad.
Up and in tomorrow. I was working by myself and got to a point where I thought a second hand would be a good idea to help guide it in place. I have always dropped in from above.
Is the one in the red car yet? ;D
Very nice seats! Nice to have the ability to switch 'em out.
Cannot get the engine over enough to clear the clutch end. Guess the rad shroud is too much. So down and in then.
It was that close but made it. Before I bolt it in I need to insure I can get the header in.
Got the rear brakes and all in. The moke is still up on the cart so I wanted more weight in the rear to counter the engine in front.
How will you get your brand spanking new Moke down off the crate?
Quote from: MiniDave on January 14, 2021, 03:59:03 PM
How will you get your brand spanking new Moke down off the crate?
My plan is build up under the front wheels to support them. Then lift the rear and roll the cart out. Sounds simple, like a lot of the other stuff that did not quite turn out that way.
Lift how? Engine hoist?
Can use a hoist but I can lift the back myself using the rear bumper. But the hoist is more back friendly.
I would be concerned that the legs of the hoist would get in the way of getting the cart out. If you lift it, who will move the cart?
That's what friends and neighbors are for.
I had four Navy Seals living across the street at my last home, and those boys came in very handy on two different ocassions when I needed my Bugeye moved from one side of the garage to the other, before it was back on four wheels.
You need to borrow my gantry crane! Lift moke up. Sit moke down.
The magic wand shifter sure makes it harder to drop it in.
BUT...............it's in da hole! Cinderella story. Out of nowhere.....! 77.gif 77.gif 77.gif 77.gif
Need to drop that black one in the orange car too ;D
Brad .... tell me you attached the speedometer cable to the drive gear prior to landing the lump
into place. If not, it's a bit of a challenge after the fact.
Quote from: Scargo on January 15, 2021, 08:29:40 PM
Brad .... tell me you attached the speedometer cable to the drive gear prior to landing the lump
into place. If not, it's a bit of a challenge after the fact.
You got that right
Quote from: Scargo on January 15, 2021, 08:29:40 PM
Brad .... tell me you attached the speedometer cable to the drive gear prior to landing the lump
into place. If not, it's a bit of a challenge after the fact.
YEP, center of the pic. Thanks for the heads up though.
Now I need to finish all the wiring then fuel lines and start the engine. No exhaust system other than the header so it might be a bit loud.
Don't forget the carbonator too.... and that oil pressure line ;D
It may be loud-ish, but it will be a sweet sound! 77.gif
Wiring and gauges in progress. I am using mechanical gauges for water temp and oil pressure. I thought I could use one of the existing grommets for the lines to the gauges but alas no extra room in them. I decided to use the master block off plate to add the hole so as not to add a new hole in the body.
Wiring was going good till I ran out of single bullet connectors, got plenty of doubles. Did not think to check on that before now.
I can send you some.....
Nice clean solution to needing a hole in the firewall.
Quote from: MiniDave on January 17, 2021, 05:11:17 PM
I can send you some.....
I just ordered some. Hope they don't get too delayed in the mail.
OK, let me know - I have a lot of them....tsumini sent me his leftovers, happy to pass them along to those who need.
Quote from: MiniDave on January 17, 2021, 06:30:16 PM
OK, let me know - I have a lot of them....tsumini sent me his leftovers, happy to pass them along to those who need.
Just got an email and the supplier is out of stock on the singles, so if you 6 to spare that would be great. Thanks
Also, I made those connector pliers you posted the photo of. They work GREAT.
They'll be on their way tomorrow, Rose will have to take them to the post office as I'm in quarantine....do you need any of the metal ends that go on the wires? and if so, small wires or like 14 ga?
I am good on the ends. Still have a small bag of them.
Quote from: MiniDave on January 17, 2021, 08:46:22 PM
They'll be on their way tomorrow, Rose will have to take them to the post office as I'm in quarantine....do you need any of the metal ends that go on the wires? and if so, small wires or like 14 ga?
Dave, If you have problems sending connectors let me know. I can send him some.
Nope, we're all set - they're on their way now - thanks!
My mokes build date was 18 January 1966. So today it is 55, well at least some parts of it are. I was hoping to be able to have the engine running today but alas that's not gonna happen. The hif 38 carb and manifold will not clear the bulkhead.
What's the issue with the bulkhead? How much are we talking?
Are you using a spacer under the carb?
Worst case I have a spare OEM cast iron intake/exhaust manifold.....
I had planned to use a later factory manifold. Have to run a spacer to be able to clear the throttle cable arm. I will look at what other manifolds I have but I think the factory one is the slimest of the bunch. The hif is a larger carb too so that does not help either.
Can you tilt the engine forward with a longer engine steady?
I remember my HIF44 hitting the bulkhead on my Clubby, someone had banged the lip of the bulkhead down for clearance but it still touched sometimes. I swapped out the 1/2" thick spacer for a 1/4" and that gave just enough room that it didn't hit anymore. I think Bruce had to do the same on his car?
Come to think of it, I think Clancy went to an HS4 because his wouldn't clear with a modern manifold either.....
Yes, I went with a very thin carb spacer combined with an adjustable engine steady. Plenty of clearance now on my car. Oh, with the thinner carb spacer I also relieved the throttle cable arm so it did not contact the intake. I will go out to the garage and take a photo...
I just took these photos. With a thinner carb spacer it was necessary to use a Dremel to relieve the throttle cable arm because it was striking the intake manifold.
It is not pretty but it works.
I forget the exact thickness of spacer I used but it's pretty darn thin.
And here is the space between the bottom of the carb and the bulkhead. It's like an inch or so. That threaded stud in the photo looks like it's close to the bottom of the carb but it's not.
(I see that I really should've trimmed the end of that cable!)
I used 6mm on the spacer if I remember correctly. A little dremel work like Bruce illustrated may be required.
I have a short spacer, I can look to see if I can make it shorter. Already removed some metal on the throttle cable mount. I will order the adjustable top steady. All this combined may just do it. Not sure if it will make enough difference to still use the stock filter housing though. That was more for show anyway so a low profile one would be ok. Not like I would worry about any extra noise it makes.
The best manifold for clearance I was told was a Metro one maybe event the MG Metro one which by now are thin on the ground.
I had a friends Clubman Estate and used a thinner spacer along with shaving the quadrant I also tightened the bend so it moved the arc of the quadrant away from the manifold, I guess you could use or adapt a regular HS4 throttle bracket to it but the HIF one has a nice smooth response.
I also used an adjustable steady but where I needed it to be created too sharp of an angle going up towards the floor where the manifold bolts to the pipe.
The easiest way but probably not the right way in your case is to re drill the sub frame for the engine mounts and move them forward one inch and buy the early 90's longer or adjustable steady bar which is what they did when the RSP Cooper was introduced with the HIF44.
Quote from: Willie_B on January 17, 2021, 04:58:34 PM
Wiring and gauges in progress. I am using mechanical gauges for water temp and oil pressure. I thought I could use one of the existing grommets for the lines to the gauges but alas no extra room in them. I decided to use the master block off plate to add the hole so as not to add a new hole in the body.
Wiring was going good till I ran out of single bullet connectors, got plenty of doubles. Did not think to check on that before now.
That is nice and tidy I like it.
With a thinner spacer and an adjustable upper steady the carb is in. No way the stock 850 filter housing will fit. Would need another 3/4" for it to fit. More parts shopping for an air filter that looks ok on there.
Most of the aftermarket filters are offset. Going for a stock upgraded look any of those pancake styles should work. I prefer the taller k&n's that breath better. Should consider a small stub from med since your losing some flow having to get rid of the mouth currently on the carb.
Quote from: Willie_B on January 23, 2021, 03:21:11 PM
With a thinner spacer and an adjustable upper steady the carb is in. No way the stock 850 filter housing will fit. Would need another 3/4" for it to fit. More parts shopping for an air filter that looks ok on there.
That 1 1/4" elbow would slow the flow down anyway.
I used a cone pan cake filter and it cleared fine plus was deep enough to get the flow it needs unlike the early flat 1" deep ones that are restrictive.
Depending on the amount you moved it forward with the adjustable engine steady you may need to re address the pipe angle from the header where it exits under the floor as they usually end up not parallel to the floor and facing slightly upwards.
Sure is a purdy header! Is that stainless or ceramic coated?
Ceramic coated.
All the electrical checked out ok. Ran a long hose from under the hood back to the fuel tank and let the electric pump run for 5 minutes to check for leaks. Hook the battery up and ready to spin it over for oil pressure, AND the new starter is bad. Pull it out and the solenoid part is dead. Near as I can tell after taking it apart is the solenoid wiring is bad as there is no connection between the trigger terminal and ground. Should be a few ohms for the sole winding but nadda. Guess I can use the starter from the mini while I get another new starter ordered. It came through Steve Gibbs at Coopertune. I already talked with him and he will order me another.
Are they both pre-engaged or both inertial?
Getting exciting now!
Did you prefill the oil filter? Don't be disappointed if you can't get it to spin up oil pressure on the starter - I've had some that had been down for a LONG time that wouldn't bring up pressure till I started the engine. Clancy's engine that has sat for 10 years was this way and I tried every trick in the book to get it to come up on the starter. Finally, I started it and it came up instantly.
This SPi engine was the same way - I think Dan said it's been down 10 years or so? The second it fired I had pressure on the gauge.....
Both starters are the same so using the mini one is easy. Other than not being able to remove the grille on the moke the dist. has to come out first to make room.
This engine has been sitting for a little less than 2 years. May have to start it to get pressure. Will not run it but a short bit as no exhaust system past the header and it is still sitting on my carpet covered cart about 5 inches from the header end.
Yeah, just enough to hear it make the NOISE! 77.gif 77.gif 77.gif 77.gif
First time shooting a video on my phone today. So might be able to capture the moment. So would I need to put the video on youtube and then link to there or what?
I think the easiest way is youtube then link here via [youtube][/youtube ]
Quote from: Willie_B on January 26, 2021, 03:33:37 PM
First time shooting a video on my phone today. So might be able to capture the moment. So would I need to put the video on youtube and then link to there or what?
Yes. It's easy to set up a YouTube account. Then it is just a matter of selecting the video on your phone as the one you want to upload to your new YouTube account.
You can keep the video private if you don't want the whole world to see you video, and just post the link here (using the YouTube tool right under the Change Color box when you are posting here. An easy way to keep you video private (if you care about that) is to so give the video some random combination of letters like go6ek452 or something so it won't be picked up during a search on YouTube. On the other hand, if you want the world to see the video just give it a normal title and people searching for Moke or Austin or whatever will find it.
Yep, that's how I do mine....but I can't think of any reason to make mine private, so I don't.
They have a new wrinkle now, you have to indicate whether your video is safe for children! ::)
New windscreen came in today. Ordered online from Vintageglass.com. They asked for a pattern just to be sure. Very well packed. Total was $150 delivered.
In one sense, Moke glass is easier to source since it is truly a flat panel.
When the original windshield of the white Moke I restored broke when trying to re-install it, I just went to a local glass shop and got a new one made and installed. I made sure to order it as a laminated glass. My cost was a bit more, but I had them install it into the restored frame with the new seals I had already obtained.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xajX-K3u6Lc
Awesome!!!!!! 4.gif
It just purred....... 62.gif
Quote from: Willie_B on January 27, 2021, 03:29:26 PM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xajX-K3u6Lc
Excellent! On two counts: 1) the engine installed in the Moke first start up (hooray!), and 2) you successfully making a video and posting it on YouTube.
Brad, if you take the part of that address above following the equal sign, and post mix of characters between the {youtube}xajX-K3u6Lc{/youtube} tool (with [ and ] used not the { and } , you can make it show up like below.
or, just put the entire link in the parentheses when you click the YOu Tube button above the dialogue box
Ah. It didn't used to work that way. Thanks Dave. Makes it even easier.
nice
Brad ... I'm sure no one here needs to remind you of this but I feel compelled to do so. Since that is a freshly rebuilt engine, unless it has already been "run-in", you need to run it at 2,000 rpm for 20 minutes in order to bed the cam and lifters.
.
I'm sure he'll want to do a few things first, like put the dash together, install the exhaust system and move it out of the basement and up into the garage......wife might object to 20 min of exhaust fumes polluting the house! 77.gif
I run all my engines in on the test bed for at least 1/2 hour, including 20 min at 2K to bed in the cam, I wouldn't be surprised that Coopertune does the same.
You know, I'd never heard of this practice before I started working on classic Mini engines again. All the others I'd done over my whole life, we fired em up and drove em around the block a few times to make sure everything worked properly, kept them overnight for a head retorque and valve adjustement, then sent them home. 8.gif
I've always subscribed to the practice of the 20 minute/steady 2,000 rpm run-in period. After cool down, re-torque the head, check the valve clearances and adjust if necessary.
Once it's ready for the initial road test, the first run should be done at varying the RPM's and loads, paying particular attention to lugging the engine in 4th in order to help bed the rings.
I'm no engine builder, so you guys please correct me if I'm all washed up on this.
The next "always something" is the steering rack/column. The rack just has the one cutout for the column position. Of course this does not make the shaft alignment correct for the bolt that cancels the turn signal. I need to move that bolt hole 90 degrees from where it is now. Time to grind a new flat spot and tap the new hole.
Glad to hear it running 4.gif
scargo, I agree with everything you said except the lugging in 4th - never do that!
Put a load on it sure, run it up to 4K in 2nd and 3rd, then let it back down and do it again. But no lugging.....
Got it, thank you for the clarification, Dave.
My engine break in is basically what you guys have already said. No low rpm lugging and no steady state rpm driving. Vary rpms, give it a fair amount of throttle and rpms but don't go all out on it for the first 250 miles. You need engine load to create pressure behind the rings, forcing them to bed into the cylinder walls. Give it a few heat cycles in that 250. Change the oil then have at it. Also very important to not run overly rich during initial break in so the rings bed into the cylinder walls rather than get fuel wash creating low compression. You're better off being lean initially.
Finishing the rear brake stuff. Put in an adjustable valve. Should be able to just reach under to adjust it. Next is the front to rear line. Being as it goes through the right side pontoon there is a coupling inside the front most compartment so as not to have to run one long continuous line.
Another aftermarket part problem. When putting the front hubs in threads on one of the balljoints stripped. About 50 ft lbs they went. This was the upper ballpoint so spec is 60. New OEM parts on order.
Is that one of the new maintenance free ones from Japan, or just a regular ol Mini ball joint? Or one of the MS cheapies?
You're lucky you got the nut off, a lot of times when they strip like that they just spin in the hole and you have to put a jack under the hub or arm to put enough pressure on them to spin the nut off - that's where a good high powered impact wrench comes in handy.
I've actually had pretty good luck with the MS cheapies over the years, I have them on my green car and after a good 15K they still don't feel loose or like they need re-shimming.
But after putting a set of those maint. free ones from Japan on this white car, I'd be sorely tempted to use those from now on.....despite the cost. One small tip on those.....you can't get a 1-1/2" socket down over the rubber boot, so they want you to take it off to tighten the ball joint into the hub, but I have a box end wrench and it slips right over the boot and onto the nut - worked a treat!
It seems my torque spec I used is wrong. It is 35-40 for both upper and lower. Oh well, another learning experience. I will still replace all the balljoints anyway, as the ones on now came with the used hubs when I bought them.
Going to take a moke break and work on the mini instead. Change the front cones to the evo ones before the engine goes back in.
SO much easier to change the cones with the motor out - even more so if it's an automatic! Ask me how I know?
I'm eager to hear what you think of the evo cones but I think it might take a few hundred miles to get a real assessment of them.
Can't wait to hear the engine fire up in the Red car....
Finally got back to spending time working on the moke. So testing the brake system with air pressure. Started out with 30psi. Could hear air leaking and found the both rear bleed screws open, that's easy. Still losing air so crank it up to 60psi and start checking fittings with a stethoscope and find 2 loose. Crank the air up to 100 psi and find 2 more leaks. So far just a bit more snug takes care of it. Then I was concerned just how high I could go so look it up on google. Seems brake pressure can exceed 1000psi so I am good at 150. As high as my compressor will go. No more leaks found. Decided to run flexible lines from the masters so waiting on those. Also waiting on the shop to press in longer wheel studs on the front discs, need to go bug him again.
Usually it's just a matter of making the fittings a little tighter. Then it gets fun when you get a cheap batch and they strip.
Don't you love it when a plan comes together. I did not like how the spare tire was lining up with mounting hole on the rear. So I figured I would put it on the inside. Got it mounted and was happy with the way it looked. Then when standing back looking at it I thought hmmm, I wonder if the tire is right where the top bows need to lay down. YEP. So back to figuring out a good way to mount on the rear anyway.
Looking good 4.gif
I designed and had fabricated a bracket to hold the spare on the white Moke I restored. The bracket mounted to the body using the original spare captive nut and moved the spare up and back so it was above the rear bumper instead of wedged between the bumper and body.
Below are some pictures of the bracket on the body. The first two give an idea of how it mounted, the next two show it with the spare installed. The last one shows a bit better how it was constructed and holds the spare.
I remember checking that out at Dans shop. That may be what I do now that you reminded me.
On my last Moke i used a $35 spare tire bracket for trailers from Harbor Freight.
Brad, you could always make some sort of spacer to mount the tire inside the tub but move it forward enough to clear the top bows. Maybe 3 or 4 inches and you'd still have plenty of room between the rear seats and the tire.
Clancy's Moke just has a long bolt with a piece of tubing and a flat washer and nut on the outside of the wheel
The correct piece is a sort of Z shaped stud threaded on both ends.
Now that the moke is off the blocks and on the ground I could finally sit in it. I have the seat all the way back, using all the 1 1/2" of travel! The magic wand shifter is a reach to first and third. Made an extension for it. Sure won't be speed shifting it anyway.
Putting your lathe to use?
Could you make me one of those too? only have it curve to the rear?
Quote from: MiniDave on September 05, 2021, 12:43:24 PM
Could you make me one of those too? only have it curve to the rear?
How much longer do you want? I will give it a try. The shaft is 3/8 303 stainless steel so not sure how to bend it.
Lemme do some figuring, just mild steel is fine, doesn't need to be stainless.....
You gotta do what you need to do with what you got. Took my wife and both to finish up the glass install. You push one place and it pops up another. Then it has to be compressed for the lower rail to be bolted in.
Nice!
You can never have too many clamps..... 77.gif
So, another thing checked off the list?
Windscreen mounted, still needs the bolts put on. Now it is really looking like a real vehicle.
Yay! It's a car again! 77.gif
Almost ready to drive?
Quote from: 94touring on January 25, 2022, 04:39:49 PM
Almost ready to drive?
Now I can take photos of it for insurance. It looks finished. Once I have insurance I can get a license plate and be able to hit the road.
Bleed the hydraulic systems and finish a short list of other things then it should be ready.
Do you have the rear seats too?
Have all 4 seats. Still waiting on the seatbelts for them so have not put them in yet.
Hope the weather cooperates for your maiden open air voyage.
Well done Brad, it looks great.
Quote from: Jimini II on January 25, 2022, 08:02:42 PM
Well done Brad, it looks great.
With new glass in there it does look great.
Congrats!!! Looking good!!!!!!!!!!
Should look even better when I get it outside in the sun.
Pix and video coming soon I hope!
Hope this isn't like the guy who built a boat in his basement but then couldn't get it out without tearing down the house! 8.gif :-[ ::)
(nah, I know he has a garage door so he can drive it right out!) 77.gif
The moke is officially licensed for the road. The YOM tag is chained in the DMV system. That means the new issued plate just has to be in the vehicle and does not need to be in sight. I can have the 1966 tag mounted in back.
Has the yard dried up enough to drive it out yet?
Still waiting on that first road test video! 77.gif
Are the gold wheels going to stay on it?
Next week Clancy will be in your area picking up a Mini a local guy bought from there....I haven't seen any what it is yet.
I will probably be swapping the gold wheels between the moke and mini. I have always liked Cosmic wheels.
It must be getting close to have a bonnet on it. Got the prop rod idea from Peter Braun.
After disappointment yesterday with a weak battery the moke started just fine this morning. Out of the basement, across the yard and out there. Short fix it list so far. Main one being is an oil leak at rear of the gauge. The alignment is good enough for around the neighborhood for now. My tow dolly should be back in a week. By then I should be ready to take it to the shop. Not near as comfortable as a mini.
That prop rod is a great idea! What length did you make it - from bend to bend? And how long are the bent bits?
Thanks,
Tim.
My biggest problem driving Clancy's Moke was not being able to get the seat back far enough to get comfortable.....I wouldn't want to drive one very far. They're perfect for what they were intended - beach cars, island cars and so on. Were you able to locate yours where it's comfortable on your knees?
I know guys have driven them long distances - I think there's a club in Australia that Mokes all over the country for weeks at a time - and guys from Florida have driven up to the CMU events in Va and such, but I prefer my Mini too.
Congrats on getting it out of the basement!
The prop rod is 22" between bends. But you want to figure out what hood angle you want then make it to fit. The bottom end bend is not 90 degrees but what it needed to work. There is a small hole in the grille end to put a clip thru to hold it all together. The plastic holder part is just a generic part I got at the auto parts store. The metal "C" channel mount is just the right width to share to load to the front panel so it is not all trying to twist just the upper lip.
You are right Dave. After just a few minutes driving my right ankle started to ache and cramp. My seat is all the way back it will go. May need to look into ways to lower and move it back more. That will mean cutting the seat base mount off to shorten that area then weld on a rail that will hang out the front to be able to push the seat backwards some.
Another big adjustment i make sure with the Moke.. is that the Gas pedal isn't too HIGH... where you have to really crank your ankle up to reach the gas pedal.
Theres a small bracket on the firewall that stops the pedal from pivoting up too far... which also should have a small rubber buffer on it too. with all in place it 'lower's the relative height o the pedal. ( I added a piece of rubber hose to the stopper) to help lower the pedal height too. Dont be afraid to bend the pedal lower too = It will still give full throttle open or close enough.
Great you got it out ! sorting out the small things to sort!
I moved the front seats of my Moke back four inches by fabricating new brackets that attach the seats to the floor. It made a world of difference up front and there's still plenty of rear seat legroom.
Quote from: Scargo on July 20, 2022, 05:52:22 AM
I moved the front seats of my Moke back four inches by fabricating new brackets that attach the seats to the floor. It made a world of difference up front and there's still plenty of rear seat legroom.
Sounds interesting, H, can you post some photos? I am not a small guy and have experienced these same problems ....
Peter,
I'm out of town right now but once I return home, I'll shoot a couple of photos of the bracket installation. Unfortunately I did not take photo's of the brackets before I installed them, so it may be a little bit difficult to get the point across in the photos. Therefore, I will first try to explain what I came up with.
The brackets are made up from 1.25" x 1.25" x 1/8" thick angle iron. I seem to recall that I cut them to 16" in length, but I will measure them.
I had to trim the vertical legs down to 1/2" in height for their entire length in order to clear the side of the seat that runs directly above the bracket.
The front of the bracket mounts up on the top of the cross member, where the old bracket bolted up.
The brackets extend far enough to the rear to where I could relocate the seat approximately 3.5" further back (in lieu of the 4" as previously stated).
Now the fun part: I need someone here to instruct me how to load photographs so they don't turn sideways when I post them on this site. You see, I had that experience a couple of years ago, and I never learned what I was doing wrong or what I needed to do to correct the problem. I will take the photo's using my iPhone and will most likely transfer then to my laptop before posting them here ....HELP !!!
Quote from: Scargo on July 22, 2022, 05:49:29 AM
Now the fun part: I need someone here to instruct me how to load photographs so they don't turn sideways when I post them on this site. You see, I had that experience a couple of years ago, and I never learned what I was doing wrong or what I needed to do to correct the problem. I will take the photo's using my iPhone and will most likely transfer then to my laptop before posting them here ....HELP !!!
What works for me is to take photos with my phone sideways. Then when I post them they are correct.
Get this app. When you upload a pic to it you will immediately seevhow it's oriented. If it's sideways just rotate and save.
Thank you, it seems I was able to load the photo's in the proper orientation without issue.
Peter ... go back up a couple of posts and you'll see them. The brackets are 16" long, in lieu of 14" as stated above. I've gone back and corrected that in the previous post.
If you have any questions, let me know.
As H mentioned, still plenty of room in the the rear seats as I rode in the back up at MME.
Garry
I was thinking something like that. Did you drill an extra hole in the crossmember for the front seat bolt?
No, I did not have to drill any holes in the front cross member.
Just happened to notice the other day that the next Caffeine & Octane event on Aug 7 will have British cars in the special display area. But you have to apply in advance for entry. So on the last day to apply I sent it in. Found out today that I got in. Time to speed up test drives and all to be ready. Alignment scheduled for Wednesday. I will be using the tow dolly because not enough driving time on it yet to feel good about it yet. This will be the first showing of the moke. Looking forward to it.
Sounds like fun. Almost certainly you will be the only Moke there. Many, many questions will come your way!
Don't forget to leave the handbrake off! :D
On the alignment rack.
Not much more than toe and go on stock Moke suspension.....
It has 4 wheel fully adjustable so lots of bit to fiddle with.
Looking forward to that when..... I get the seats back. Did find a shop in Plano that specializes in custom alignments.
Quote from: gr8kornholio on August 03, 2022, 08:03:55 PM
Looking forward to that when..... I get the seats back. Did find a shop in Plano that specializes in custom alignments.
That's great! Do you have the alignment specs to tell them?
I still have the same tires on my car from its alignment seven years ago and there is still no uneven wear. Plus it handles great.
Yea I found them in a thread and snapped a pic.
Survived Caffeine & Octane this morning. This was the first time in a new location so it was a zoo. Hot, no shade at all. Used the tow dolly to take it as it across town from me. It was their British car day so probably 60 British cars there together of all types. This event bills itself as the largest car show in the country with an average of 3000 cars each time. I stayed close to the moke to keep an eye on it and answer questions. Been there, done that now. Just too large for me. I will go to more local smaller car shows now.
I'm pretty much over car shows unless they're at a venue where I can get into the A/C. Earlier this year our All British was at a really nice venue and even tho it was in the 90's I was able to get into a nice cool air conditioned mall that had a great food court, so double win.
Installed the seat moved back two inches. Feels much better now.
Quote from: MiniDave on August 07, 2022, 03:09:40 PM
I'm pretty much over car shows unless they're at a venue where I can get into the A/C. Earlier this year our All British was at a really nice venue and even tho it was in the 90's I was able to get into a nice cool air conditioned mall that had a great food court, so double win.
I hear you. I'm deciding whether or not to take my '88 Mini to the ABCD car show in Austin this Sunday where temperatures are expected to be about 97° by 2 PM. It's a 90 min drive back home after the show and is definitely no fun in the Mini in the heat.
It just occurred to me instead I could drive my 2002 R53 Cooper S which has the magic of a/c. It's 20 years old now and I guess I could even put it in the show. Or just be a spectator and leave when I want. Hmmmm.
Yeah, the R53 will be almost as unusual by now as a classic - and it has A/C!!!! 77.gif
We've had a break in our weather - high today of 64? Maybe it will cool down by the weekend?
Why isn't Michael driving his almond green car with its A/C?
Dave,
My Almond Green Mini is at a consignement dealer where I am trying to sell it. It has to be at their showroom.
I will be going to the car show Bruce mentioned as a spectator this year since the blue panel Van is still "in progress".
In prior years, the show had a class for "New MINIs" that Bruce's would go in. The last few years, there has been no cars show up for that class.
Finding stuff that I thought was tight/torqued but was not. The steering arms had a bit of loose wobble. Maybe the locating pins had too much paint and they did not tighten down all the way the first time. Then I developed a dead spot in the steering. Found the 4 nuts that hold the rack in were loose. Crank down a bit more and now it steers great. Imagine that.
Have a bit of lean stumble when just cruising along at a steady speed. I see it go lean on A/F gauge and it feels off at about 16-17. Everywhen else it is right on or a bit rich.
Next up is to install the top. That will be a two person job, wife can hold the bows while I get the straps on. It has cooled outside off but some shade will still be nice.
Putting miles on it as in middle of October I will be taking it down the central Florida for Mokin' Around for three days of backroads. Not to many twisties though.
Drove up to Ohio today to pick up a enclosed trailer for the moke. Robin Jones made it to carry his moke around on. The cover was made by a company that makes snowmobile trailers. The cover is vinyl over a steel tube frame. The back has zippers up each side so you unzip both and flip it on top. Then there are two zipper doors in front on each side so you get to the front to tie it down. Needs a good cleaning inside and out. Then figure how to load and tie down the moke. Like the graphic on the rear.
That's cool 4.gif
I've never seen a trailer like that. Very cool. I'm sure that rear graphic is going to make a lot of people smile, and make a lot of other people ask questions.
The trailer looks great Brad!
There were several aluminum 6x12' trailers like yours without the cover up at MME. On some of them the whole bed tilts to ease loading. I'm keeping my eyes open for one of those to utilize for my saloon.
Garry
That's a nice trailer!
Tow dolly to the rescue.
The rubber sealing band from the body to the radiator broke. When it did it got into the fan and broke all the blades off. That explains the rattle sound I heard, I thought the noise was something I kicked up into the wheel well. NOPE. So as it is a warm day and I had the possibility of traffic it was best to call for rescue. Wife picked me up as I was just a few miles from home.
Not sure if I can fix this with the engine in. With the metal shroud as part of the body there is no room to move the radiator over. Also I am uncertain of it's condition after all the flying blades. I can see some dents in the fins already.
Well that's a huge bummer. Provided the radiator isn't punctured you can just use a small pick to fix the bent fins.
Oh man, that sucks. About four years I had just installed a new plastic fan like that with a brand new Chinese aluminum radiator. Somehow, I didn't have the fan-to-shroud clearances right and the fan destroyed itself in about two seconds when I started the car up. Those aftermarket plastic fans are made of some very brittle unforgiving plastic, and just like yours, mine turned itself into 50 little pieces of shiny yellow plastic. Oh, while destroying the new radiator too.
Hope your radiator survives.