On this 66 S build the owner wants to retain the flip front. It needs to flip forward. As of now it came with what looks like basic door hinges mounted on the subframe and had some kind of latch that's missing from each A panel. I'm looking for ideas to improve this. Pictures of what other's have seen or done would be great. We will be retaining both inner wings and the front will be one solid piece, using the existing metal front that's in great shape. 9.gif
You're looking for ways to hinge it, latch it or both?
Do you want the latches hidden or exposed?
How about the way they did it on Project Binky? ;D
Last 5 min or so.....
I've seen pictures of several that used a pair of dzus fasteners on each side. They had a small flange welded at the A-panel seam that the fasteners attached to.
I have also seen ones with the rubber bonnet fasteners like are used on the Moke bonnets.
Hinges seem to be a wide variety of whatever works. Most of the racer types (and others wanting easily removed fronts) seem to prefer a post style hinge to easily slip the front fully off for service.
I watched project binky, and no.
Hinged, latched, hidden, exposed...just need ideas for now.
I had two zeus fasteners on each side along with hinges that pointed in the same direction.
This enabled me to remove by sliding to one side. I built the strut braces for each side too.The braces attached into the side panel just past the the diagonal brace on the firewall.
This was a great 1960 with a 1380 engine. The front end was very firm once attached.
I wish I had never sold this car.
Regards
towjoe 77.gif
Big AL had a Clubman flip front on a Tinnie wagon and his fastened from the inside with two Moke like rubbers (or maybe rubber bungees) attached to the inside of the A panels if memory serves me correctly.
Thanks Toejoe. Any pics where it clips into the a panel area?
Oh, how about re-purposing some sort of automotive door latch mechanism? Have the receiver part hidden on the inside of the A-panel, and have the striker on the flip front? Lots of way to envision the release (cable, rod, solenoid). Should provide nice and secure mounting. And if done right, there would be nothing visible - unlike a rubber strap or other typical fasenter.
(http://static.speedwaymotors.com/RS/SR/Product/91052860_L.jpg)
That has crossed my mind too. Was also looking at linear actuators but not sure if I want it that complicated, hence why I'm not doing the binky style.
I used two linear actuators on a car worked bitchen they seem to stay in time just fine even though we didn't use feedback ones on a short stroke to standard ones work fine . Here's a link to where we got them used the square tube ones to 40-pound force if I remember correctly I could check with the car owner and get some pics if you're more interested . https://www.firgelliauto.com/products/sleek-rod-tubular-linear-actuators-no-slot
(edit) They also hold well when shut.
Dan this may be hard to see the zeus fasteners on diagonal panel.
The first one is just ahead and below the top hinge.
That's pretty cool that you had a flip front and could still open the hood, most of the ones I've seen are all welded together..
I like the idea of the rubber straps inside the fender/A-panels, so hidden.
I thought I remembered still having a set of pictures of a Mini with a fiberglass flip-front I did an inspection on. I found the pictures. Here are some that show the fasteners and hinges as best as were in the set of pictures taken.
I had planned on using a set of BMW hood latches and making a swivel and slide bar like that of Binky. The hood latches were going to get mounted to the top corners where the a panel is located and the hood pins on the wings. Then the cable for the BMW was going to get routed to the inside of the car.
The wing/a-panel attachment was then going to be a v channel on the a-panel with the wing having a nylon wedge. The a-panel was going tobe held in place with some threaded rod for adjustment.
Here's what I came up with. A few plates, rod, pipe, and some captive nuts later.
Few more pics showing fitments. Pretty happy overall, just had to tweak the right side a tad was all.
How does it come off? Unbolt one side plate and then slide out the other side?
You can unbolt the hinges or the whole setup from subframe.
If it might be removed for service, then you might want to put studs in the front end bodywork so they will be pushed into the holes to hold it in place while the nuts are put on.
Little late now. There are captive nuts on those plates I welded on. Pretty easy to take either off though.
You need the hinge pins , both pointed in the same direction. That way you you can take the whole front off and unplug the lights. Easy peasy.
Regards
towjoe 77.gif
I will have a quick disconnect for the lights but it's going to be 4 bolts to undo to take the front off. I suppose 2 if you only took one hinge off and slid the other side off.
I entertained the thought of a flip front many years ago, had considered fiberglass at the time. KC talked me out of it though, 'splaining to me that the fiberglass option wouldn't really be that appealing (appearance and fit) for a road car.
My plan was to use a pair of rear subframe pins and trunions for the hinges.
Pin and trunion is an interesting idea. I ditched the old hood that was on this car due to dents and rust and went with just a skin. Not sure how much fibreglass weighs but this is light enough it's not a problem to handle, though the lights and accessories are yet to be fitted. Aside from a little seam sealer along the hood/wing line it should all look stock. Ordered some dzus fasteners today to do the final bit. Will need a couple rubber strips for the scuttle area to prevent paint rubbing accidently on closing. It's pretty rigid and after tweaking the right side fits very well. Was less of a nightmare than I anticipated. Compared to the flip front that was on it initially, this is night and day.
A bit of weatherstrip should do the trick, but I also hope it doesn't vibrate too much at the A-panel and scuff the paint.
I'd thought that perhaps the trunions (2 pairs) could be bolted to the nose of the subby as well as through a box-section attached to the front panel and use the bushes for their anti-vibration properties.
What's holding the hinge pin to the subframe, welding along the rod?
For the wing to a panel I will have a full length stock seam cover, then the wing lip cut off and a narrow strip of rubber moulding. The dzus should keep it steady but rubber there too.
The hinge assemble is rod with pipe through it which is welded to a metal plate which then bolts to the subby. Almost welded it to the subby but if it ever needed repaired or someone wanted to remove it, this was the better option. Plus it's easy to unbolt and take the whole thing off.
I like that it's bolted together and can be serviced, repaired or replaced.
It's looking really nice! 77.gif
I saw a flip front with regular adjustable hood stops sourced from a US car. They were the earlier type with the screw adjustment and rubber pad on top and were mounted towards the scuttle on the inner wings. The set up worked well as it lifted the front slightly so nothing was rubbing.