Here's the latest car to enter the shop . This will be a full build top to bottom. MiniDave will be doing the engine. More pics and details soon.
The back wheel look like it's rubbing on the fender opening?
The hydros are flat. Most likely going with coilovers. You'll have to update me on your setup and the pothole situation with various bushings.
Good luck with the resto, completes are tough as you have to plan for the last steps right at the beginning to avoid going backwards. Just got done with a 1071 not that long ago.
Nice job Nic, looks great!
Yeah never easy and hard to predict! Car looks great!
Wow, the 1071 looks awesome! Great job!
Some current panels blasted. Flip front metal is good as is except the bonnet was attached less than stellar and has some significant low spots, so I'll put a new bonnet in. Problem I'm currently having is buying just a skin, as I don't need the guts, that doesn't cost a small fortune in shipping. Looking like buying a knockoff mk3 bonnet and cutting off what I don't need will be what I do.
Clean metal is so much nicer to work with isn't it?
Plus it looks pretty. Tempted to just clear over it!
Got it fully blasted finally.
So, how does the body look? As bad as expected or maybe a little better?
Virtually nothing wrong with it actually. A panels are a little sketchy is it.
What is/was the bracket in the fender well for?
Looks like an overflow bottle bracket to me. Or a place to hide beer.
Amazing how much room there is in there. I have windshield washer bottle on one side and expansion tank on the other.
For a body design that utilizes available space so well, it's kind of amazing how much (relative) space is unused up under a Mini's front wings.
Onto some sealer primer topped with filler primer.
Is it just the lighting, or is the roof a little "denty" ?
Just the lighting. Its pretty straight actually.
Is the owner getting excited to see the progress?
What color will it be, back to BRG?
will it be getting arches?
I wish I lived closer... 77.gif
I haven't talked to him in awhile but need to call him soon. It will be paint matched to his brg 2015 mini. Pretty sure we're doing arches.
Ha so it's definitely straight now. Spent the day skimming low spots. Main body is just about ready for paint.
How about some more picture of the progress. FYI the color match should be to a 2016 MINI cooper S (BRG II Metallic B22 code). Yes on the flares. Last we talked you mentioned you were going to look/ride at coil overs -did that happen? I think I will go back to twin SU's & get rid of my webber 45 setup. Suggestions? Also I got a new LCB header set & before I send it out for coating I need you to put in the O2 bung (for tuning the su's - right). I have some time off the next 2 weeks so if your available...
Let me start with an apology for sticking my head into a conversation where I wasn't invited.
Of course every owner gets to personalize his Mini as he sees fit, but metallic paint on a classic Mk. I Mini, especially a Cooper S?
In my (quite unsolicited) opinion, I think that will just look 'wrong'. Expectations of Mini enthusiasts worldwide would be for one of the original period colors from the 1960s for a Mk. I Mini. And, with a genuine Cooper S, the expectation would further be the original color as it left factory. I think straying from that would hurt the value of the car.
Ah yes pics! I don't have color on it yet but the main body is ready. I put together a new and improved flip front though. Replaced the old bonnet and put in a new skin. Have made a few tweaks to it. Made a dummy move and put the z clip too low so a flare would cover it. Luckily only did that to one side. Suspension is torn apart too.
Regarding coilovers, Dave from KC hasn't been too fond of his. I suppose mid month I'll get to test them. May be looking into smootharide cones instead.
Bruce don't say that, I already bought the paint, and it's not cheap!
Quote from: 94touring on March 02, 2017, 02:49:19 PM
Bruce don't say that, I already bought the paint, and it's not cheap!
Perhaps you could find a 2014 MINI that needs a paint job? :)
I assume WFAULKN is the owner?
If so, glad to hear from you!
My '89 Mini has metallic green paint and I really like it, although it's not a MKI
Since the car needed a full front-end job and the owner requested a flip-front, it is already into "custom" and the "purists" would be squawking no matter.
I see no reason the owner should not go with a paint color he really likes. It may just turn out quite beautiful and be slightly different. There are lots of "customized" MK-Is out there.
I say "go for it" with regard to the new color.
Cool thing about old cars is that you can change the paint color if you don't like it. I'm all for any wild color. Of course I have no respect for classics.
Roof has some shine to it now.
4.gif
Very nice! Looks like it is still wet.
Did the final touches to the flip front. Shaved the wing lip and utilized full length seam covers so you will barely notice it's a flip front. Scuttles match up great and I went with one zues fastener halfway up per side. I can now continue on with paint.
After a very hectic couple weeks, I managed to finally get some RBG on this thing. Head out of town tomorrow, once back I can mask this off and get the interior knocked out.
Nice, what's he planning to do for an engine/trans?
You'll be building a 1275 with some fast road parts...
I didn't know if anything had changed there....looks like you're moving right along.
Does this car have an interior or will you be doing a new one?
It has interior that I'll be reupholstering.
Interior has color now.
Should have the main body painted this week. One last coat of filler primer to feather.
Hard to believe I was just there 2 days ago. You finished your RX7, did all the work on my car, and on this one too. Dan, when you're working, you get some stuff done!
Lol, I fixed my neighbors lawn mower too.
Whoa, that's awesome! Looking forward for the engine
Onto the final sanding.
All this painting lately has my shooting skills fine tuned.
Forgot how bright this roof is.
Man that is pretty. Looks like deep liquid.
I spent a lot of time sanding this one. It's flat as glass down the side.
Quote from: 94touring on June 08, 2017, 03:39:36 PM
I spent a lot of time sanding this one. It's flat as glass down the side.
It's like a mirror - I see a familiar face ;D being reflected.
Wow, he has got to be happy with that! Send him some pics?
Tried calling so he can drive out and see it.
Been awhile since any updates. Finally up to speed on everything at the shop. Have boxes of suspension parts for this car. Yesterday I was able to clean up and derust subframes to paint to begin the assembly this coming week. Pics soon...
Had planned on painting some subframes today but needed the hose to clean up the front one a bit more. Unfortunately the cold weather froze my water lines from the water valve out in the yard. So onto rear arms instead. Since we're going from wet to dry suspension, I had a set of old dry arms to use but in need of cleanup. Awhile ago I bought a slide bearing puller in hopes it would make pulling bearings easier. Well it didn't do a thing. So after some bad luck and wasted time with it, resorted back to the old method of slicing the needle bearing side with a dremel, yanking it and the plastic sleave out, then using my press to press out the opposite bearing. Then it was just a matter of pressing new stuff back in and reaming it up. The brass bushing Dave made for my ream worked great. A few pics...
One arm down. The old hub on this side spun a bearing, so in the trash it went. Pulled out a used one from the side garage and continued on.
Slick, Minifins and all! Gotta love having a press in the shop. Most of the time they just sit there next to the wall taking up space, but then when you need one.......
The press is very handy. Takes 30 seconds to push in the bearings as opposed to 5 minutes of fiddling with a hammer and punch.
I really enjoy assembling rear arms too!
It's just satisfying to put all together. Pieces and parts!
Note = it looks like the bottom bushing shock sleeve is still on the stud on the back of the 'completed LH / Finished arm by the pic. Look at the pic of the rough rusty RH one and just the stud is present 5/8ths stud simply sticking out.
Don't want to get it all hung= be wrestling it in place and fight getting the shock on because an old bushing sleeve is still hanging on there.
Finished the other rear arm and moved onto the front hubs. Rebuilt caliper, ball joints, bearings, new disc, and new cv joint. The pistons in the calipers had too many pits for my liking and one had a groove wore on the face, so in the trash they went and in with a set of new ones I had. Lots of sludge behind the pistons not shown when I redid all the rubber seals.
Good eye Jeddah! I'm looking at it in person right now.
Organized and ready to assemble once the subframes dry.
Great photo, I like it.
Rear subby ready to slap on 77.gif
I envy these restorations.. I wish I was involved with mine when the previous owner decided to buy later panels for my mk1. I have 6 flute vents and 4 flute vents on both sides. sad...
Rear is on and done. Time to get to the front.
The taller smootha ride cones on the front made this a challenge.
Yeah, you have to be careful with those, they say you only want to tighten them 7 turns or you might crush them.....I couldn't get the rubber bump stops under the control arms in till I had the weight of the car on the wheels.
Other side was easier after knowing what to expect. Took exactly 7 firm turns to get things fitted. Well everything is bolted up, rolling, and steering. Hopefully the owner has an idea of interior so I can get that ordered. Engine is probably 2 months out as well. I believe he sent it to 7 for the build.
Interior is slowly trickling in. In the meantime the yellow engine is his, fresh from 7ent.
Motor is in.
SO much easier to do with no sheet metal in the way! 77.gif
Car is coming along fast now, have you gotten all the interior bits yet?
Are you going to have to make a box for the Webers to fit into?
Nov of 16 start date......full resto's do take a while, don't they? I really like the metallic green on this car.....
Very easy with no front end!
Still waiting on a portion of the interior but I have plenty of other things to tackle on the car in the meantime.
Like getting it running, shifting, driving and the brakes working? ;D
Just minor details.
Fiddling with engine bay items to make sure the webbers clear. Also have fully functioning brakes now.
Does it idle at 5k? :-[
New harness came in, which allowed me to run the rear harness and get glass and some interior done. Have some wiring to run for a gps he wants, then the headliner goes in.
Nice, I see a packaged panel leaning against a mk1 mini. Guessing mine?
Nah, door cards, but yes your car. Your x member and pan were test fitted and in the car ready to be welded up.
Starting to resemble a car again.
One step closer, I got the alternator, starter, ignition switch, fuse box and a few other bits wired up now, and it cranks over with the ignition switch! We just bumped it a couple times cause it has no oil in it, and Dan needs to install the oil cooler and lines and put oil in it before cranking it any more. Next step, oil then gas and button up the intake and exhaust manifolds, then crank up oil pressure and see if it will make some noise!
So busy with my car hadn't had time to post here yet. Dave was a God send getting this harness sorted. I can continue on and actually get it running now! He probably saved me a week or more of being pissed at a harness had I kept trying myself.
It's alive! Hadn't run in 32 years!
Man, that sounds good....he's got to be thrilled to see and hear it run, now he's going to be on you to get it on the road, at least by spring time!
We have doors on, more importantly, they match!
Slick! Lets see, all you have left to do is the bonnet, front end and deck lid, cut and polish everything and finish putting it together, then tune a bit and she's out the door. Be done later this week, right? :D
The spring bbq is just my way of getting people here to finish the car.
Hey great idea, I know we'd all pitch in...... 77.gif
Sounds like a plan. It'll give me practice for mine. Be looking like an episode of overhaulin.
Looks good! I love the flip front, makes me jealous....
Having seen this car up close and personal (when I did some wiring on it) it truly will be gorgeous when done, and a fitting tribute to all Dan's hard work!
Quote from: MiniDave on January 03, 2019, 04:11:37 PM
Having seen this car up close and personal (when I did some wiring on it) it truly will be gorgeous when done, and a fitting tribute to all Dan's hard work!
And the last time I ever build a car ground up for someone lol. Unless of course it's enough money for me to take a year off from flying.
My guy in the UK is putting together seat covers for me this week. Owner wanted 2 tone grey to go along with the color scheme to his new bini. I went with Dove and Saville which will be a nice subtle contrast. Dove matches the door cards and carpet set.
How long will it take him to make and ship the covers?
I'm guessing a few weeks with shipping times. He has 2 sets to make for me this time.
Green S and?
And my 74. I tried a set of cobra buckets that 66 owner had collecting dust but getting in and out is no fun. My current cream over black front seats don't match the car since the "mild refurb" so I have some all black covers being made. The current seats are destined to the pickup.
Seat covers came in. Look fantastic as expected. This is the 5th or 6th set I've had this guy make. Will get them on maybe toward the end of the month. Wedding week and mini vacation. Plus I couldn't be more burnt out on working right now.
I hear that!
Taking a break will recharge your batteries. You're in the home stretch on the green S, when you get back you can make that final push and get it rolling out the door.
Dan... I love your wheel support idea.. how fabulous to get the car up yet w/o jack stands underneath. very nice sir
Seat day. Yanking and pulling and clipping.
Seats look fantastic!
Hope the Inno ones turn out as nicely..... 77.gif
Before and after
Looks great. New foam too?
Good old foam from a variety of seats to pick from. The key is pulling the covers tight to give a nice feel.
Wow - they look really great!
Speaking of interiors, is it a given that fitting the folded bottoms of the storage compartments (I think I heard the Binky blokes call them "companion bins") requires major surgery? The ones I received from MiniSport only vaguely reflected the actual contours of the compartments - off by a substantial %.
You're talking about the vinyl covered cardboard inserts?
The seats look fantastic! So are the covers the ones you mentioned from a local guy? Or are they Newton ones?
Quote from: BruceK on February 06, 2019, 04:56:29 PM
The seats look fantastic! So are the covers the ones you mentioned from a local guy? Or are they Newton ones?
Simon from Halls interior @ gmail. He's in the UK and who I've used for years. Priced right too.
Quote from: MiniDave on February 06, 2019, 04:53:31 PM
You're talking about the vinyl covered cardboard inserts?
Yes, Dave.
Yeah, those can be a PTIA......
Glad to see Dan making some more progress on the '66....after so long you just want it out of the shop! Now he's closing in on it, just about a million little details to finish.
Yes please make this car go away. I'm a slave to it. Door handles, various hardware, trim, and seats in.
So close now! 71.gif
Starting to look like a real car again!
Dan, what's your opinion on the flip front on this?
You've done some strengthening mods to it, how does it compare to the conventional setup?
I don't like flip fronts and never will!
Aha, I thought so! Thanks
nice looking... that will be a beaut when finished (if not already)
Haven't posted any updates in awhile. Finally got this front end sprayed and have minimal work on my end to do. Handing it over to Dave to finish electrical when he's done with the inno.
Next year sometime? ::)
Starting to look like a car.
Now on to welding up the rest of the 68 Aussie...
I love the two tone grey interior with the green...very pretty car!
Trim week. Almost ready to be sent to Daves.
Finally, a light at the end of that tunnel?
Almost rid of it!
Still have to color sand and buff once it's really done, but this is pretty much it.
Cheeky offset on those wheels! 77.gif
Car looks fab!
Quote from: MiniDave on October 29, 2019, 01:39:32 PM
Cheeky offset on those wheels! 77.gif
Car looks fab!
The wood and pickets go better with 10x6 wheels.
Yea, thinking I may need some of those wood and pickett flares for mine. Odd thing is, they used to have a website, now it seems all there stuff is on ebay.uk
Quote from: gr8kornholio on October 30, 2019, 08:59:01 AM
Yea, thinking I may need some of those wood and pickett flares for mine. Odd thing is, they used to have a website, now it seems all there stuff is on ebay.uk
I would be so sure that comes from the official source. Wood & Pickett seems to be a brand name that is used generically like xerox or Kleenex.
Quote from: gr8kornholio on October 30, 2019, 08:59:01 AM
Yea, thinking I may need some of those wood and pickett flares for mine. Odd thing is, they used to have a website, now it seems all there stuff is on ebay.uk
Mini Sport sells a W&P flare copy, i have not seen a set but was told they are good quality.
I have used knockoffs with no issues.
Is that what's on the Inno? They look fine to me....
Have you done the alignment on the 66 yet?
The inno has the standard factory flare like are on this 66. They seem to look fine with the abarth wheels though. Haven't done an alignment yet.
Loaded up and ready for the journey.
We're looking for a pre 76 hand brake handle, if anyone has one they can get rid of?
Is it finished and going home?
95% finished. I have some things to do to it when it gets back from Dave's.
I should add I gave it an alignment today. 1/16 toe out on the front, negative 1.25° front camber and negative 0.75° rear camber. Ride height set on all 4 corners, half inch higher in the rear.
Looks awesome.
Traded the Red one for a Green one!
While I'm doing some wiring and dash work on the 66 for Dan he'll try and get a little interior work done on the Inno, carpets, door cards and the like.
The green engine block in the foreground is a 1275 bored out to 1310 (? - 30 over) that's going into a Bugeye.....
First thing I did was pop the twin fuel tanks out, the owner wants them powder coated. Then I sat down and ordered all the tiny bits needed to finish up my part of the project.....mostly just some little bits and bobs, I also need to get a battery for the car. Since I need to run some parts up to the cranky guy for a Sprite engine I'm building, I'll try and do all of the driving today - looks like about 120 miles of driving to do all these errands! Then another 120 to pick it all up again.....
This afternoon it's supposed to be in the 60's so I need to take advantage of the temps and paint the last parts for the Sprite engine - it will be about 2 more weeks before I see the crank and parts I need to put the head together, so that will give the paint plenty of time to cure out before I start handling parts and getting oil on things. The block is already painted and ready to be assembled, I think the only major parts left are the head and the oil pan, and a few small bits.
Update: So I got the tanks delivered ($50 total for both to be blasted and coated - not bad!) and ran the rest of the Sprite rotating parts up to the cranky guy so they could balance them along with the crankshaft, if I'm lucky I'll see them in another 2 weeks. The head was supposed to be done yesterday too, but when I called the shop they said they had to send it out to another shop as they didn't have the right size hone for the guides nor the right pilot to do the valve job, and the guy at that shop who does this work is on vacation this week - so maybe next Tuesday. Its hard to get machine work done in a timely manner anymore - you just have to wait....I don't mind so much as long as I get quality work at a reasonable price.....but dammit I want it NOW!
sorry ;D
I also got the rally lights mounted on the 66, and have started working on a front detachable harness for the flip/removable front end.
I didn't get a lot done on the 66 today, I planned out the wiring for the front end, and found a "build it yourself" 6 connector plug to make the disconnect for when he wants to pull the front end off - if ever. ;D
Now I have to try and remember how it all goes together to make it work.....they're surprisingly complicated! ::)
I also pulled the front end off so that I can get to all the connections easily.
Today I popped the front end over and set it up on a table so I could plan the wiring setup I'm going to use, and I sorted out all the remaining loose wires in the harness at the bottom front of the car. I sure makes it easier to work on these things when there's no front end sheetmetal in the way.
Today I got a good start on the wiring harness for the front end, all I have to do now is connect a few more wires then terminate them into one end of the disconnect. Then do the same on the car end.....
But before I can do that I'm going to change the turn signal switch and do up all the dash, switches, gauges and so on. By then the tanks should be back and I can install them, wire up the sender and rear license plate light and that should do it for the back. Tanks should be done early next week, and I can pick up a battery that day too. Then I can plug it in and see what lights up....
Aren't you glad I dropped the car off 77.gif
I hope I get the front end back on by Sunday night, I won't get to work on it on Sat as we have a wedding to go to but if things go well I should have it together Sunday night.
It's supposed to get wicked cold mon night - down to single digits - so I need to get as much done as I can while it's tolerable in the shop.
Got the front end mounted back on the car, all the wiring turned out well and has been tested and it all works as it should....I won't get to test anything with it on the car just yet as there are too many loose wires hanging under the dash that need to be located first. The two white wires in the second pic - white/purple is for an oil pressure switch that this car doesn't have - it has a gauge - and the second white wire is the supply to the rally lights, both have been tidied up now. I also made some ground connections - both to locate ground wires in the harness but also to ground the subframe to the engine - Dan already had nice braided ground between the engine and body, this ties it all together.
Does anyone on the forum with a Mark 1 have the foot dimmer switch? If so, where does it mount? A pic would be helpful....
I had a Mk 1 Cooper S but I really don't remember there being a foot mounted dimmer switch in that car - it was a German export model so maybe it was set up differently?
I also put in an order to bolt depot - in addition to just replenishing my stocks I needed some allen head screws to attach the steering wheel to the hub and they came thru - there were exactly the right length and size - 6mmX1.0, not 1/4 -28.....must be a European made wheel. Racemark? I still need to figure out how to make the horn button work, there are a few bits missing that I'll have to fabricate.
Next up, I need to mount his air horns, the compressor seems to be locked up so I'll be sourcing a new one.
I mounted the wiper motor and wired it up, I also bench tested it to make sure it ran - I should have done this on the Inno but neglected to,
Next up, I'll straighten out the under dash wiring, ignition switch and wiper and headlight switches, then I need to wire the license plate light and I should be ready to test it all out.
I also expect the tanks back this week so I can mount them - but I'm waiting on a sending unit as the one in the car was no good. All in all, coming together nicely - as soon as some parts get here I can button up a few things, till then there's still plenty to do.
Here is a left hand drive, you can see the dip switch in the background.
Should be screw holes in the floor board. Same place for right hand drive, almost on the gear extension tunnel.
Perfect! Thanks, that's exactly what I needed.....now all I have to do is find the wires....funny how I don't remember that in my old car.
I can't see it in your pic, does your car use the old push style windshield washer pump, and if so where is it mounted? Where does the washer bottle mount then? This car has a square bracket under the left fender, so I could actually mount a more modern electric pump and bottle there and just run a push button under the dash.
The air horn compressor that the car's owner sent me doesn't work so he instructed me to get some regular horns and use them, so I went up to Vicky Brits and got some - in the middle of today's snowstorm! ::)
Not sure if I have any before pictures of the washer pump, we went electric.
The dip/dim uses a 30-40 inch three wire harness and I cannot remember where it connects to either the main harness or the rear harness.
Found one, but you can barely make the washer pump out in this picture.
The bottle was on the fire wall, but we moved it to the fender well.
I'll have to check my stuff, but I may have a set of the wires for the floor switch left over from past projects. If I have a set and you need them, let me know.
Edit:
I have three of the pig-tails, all different lengths: 19", 21", and 35". Let me know if you need one, what length, and where to send it.
Thanks Michael, lemme see if they're already in the harness in the car....
Thanks for that pic, it looks like it's in its own little bracket under the dash?
Small little angled bracket
Well, no indication that a dimmer switch was ever mounted in this car that I can find, no holes, no captive nuts no nuttin.....Also no unaccounted for wires, and the turn signal switch definitely did not do high/low beams. So I guess it's up to me to figure out how to mount and wire it......
There really is no place to mount it other than the way it shows in tmsmini's pic that I can see.
Was it ever converted from RHD to LHD?
As far as I know it was always left hand drive.
Just thinking outloud to myself, wondering if the screw holes exist on the other side.
I found them! I thought there would be captive nuts but it turns out they're just sheet metal screw holes. They don't look like they were ever used either. They were buried under the carpet and sound insulation.
Next I sent Michael a note about those leads I'll need, the other ends are there in the harness, but I will need the connecting wires - I can make them but if he has the right ones that will make things easier.....and more accurate.
I also sorted out the ignition switch leads, two of them were reversed..... and I've pretty much got a handle on the rest of the wiring.
I need to install the accelerator pedal assembly and cable and hook them up to the carb.
Then install all the gauges and wood dash once things are wired up.
I'm still working out the horn button as there are a few bits missing there too but I have a lead on them from one of the LABCC members (Susan) left over from when I fixed her horn on her 63 Mini.
The front end is on and wired up but I have to sort out how to tie down the wires so they don't rub since this is a flip front car, and I'm working out how and where to mount some stop cables like the boot lid uses to take the weight of the bonnet when tipped open.....
I also need to sort out the heater, and I sure hope it doesn't leak when I put the hoses on and fill it with coolant.
The tanks are back from the powder coaters, but I won't install them till I get the new sending unit and the cross pipe - all that is supposed to be here on Thursday,, just in time for our weather to warm up too.
Last thing I did tonight was put these three rubbers in - they're to mount the windshield motor to the bulkhead and boy howdy are they one bitch kitty to get in place! They're just as thick on the other side of the bulkhead and stiff as can be, and the wiper motor has three long studs that pass thru these.
I put them in a glass of water in the microwave for a minute to try and soften them up - it didn't really help but I got them in the end.
Oh and the tanks are back too....
Oh yay, cause I have to replace those on mine too.
You talking about those rubbers? good luck!
I get them from Victoria British here in town, they are their part number 0-010 $2.25 ea They also show a kit with rubbers, washers, studs and nuts for $7 ea but they don't have them and can't say when they ever will, so don't bother with that. The nuts are 10-32 and I bought small fender washers for the inside.
Mini Spares has those complete kits for £2.50 ea - you need three of course - if you're going to order parts from them anyway. Their part number is 17H5431
Thanks, pretty sure I ordered them from spares already so they are somewhere. Lol.
Turns out there are some special brackets missing that I need to install the dash and gauges, Dan is looking for them when he gets home again, but I still have plenty of other things I can do. Got a few more things checked off the list in the meantime.....first I made some support cables for the bonnet when it's open, I didn't like that it was just hanging off the hinges. Now as long as it doesn't get slammed open or someone leans on it too hard, these should work fine - they're the same cables used to hold the boot lid.
I also engineered and built a bracket to hold the washer pump bottle and wired/plumbed it all in, tho I still have to wire the button, you can see it in the pic - the red button.
And I got the wiper motor bolted down in those three bushings I had so much trouble with, so it's done.
I installed the new turn signal switch and sure enough as I expected there was a bit missing on the old switch - the small copper pad that rides on the steering shaft and grounds the horn was completely gone off the old switch - it never would have worked
You should also have the high/low beam wiring pig-tail in your mailbox.
77.gif
Yep, they just walked up to the door - thanks again Michael!
I had to run up to Vicky Brits to get a bunch of the Lucas bullet connector sleeves to hook these various bits together.
Dave di you already get the sleeves? I have a bagful of each (single and Double) that I won't need.
Yes, thanks.....the local Brit parts place has them pretty cheap. But if you have no use for them I'd be happy to have them as I know I will use them at some point.
Ok I'll send them along.
Thanks! You sure you don't need them?
Todays work....
The tanks came back from the powder coaters and I noticed some gritty dust in the neck of the tank (I assume from being sandblasted) so I decided to rinse them out with some clean parts washing solvent. The pic shows what I got out of the tanks....I rinsed them twice and the second time they seemed pretty clean so I went ahead and installed them in the car. Bucket pic is what came out on the first rinse, second one was pretty much clean.
I got a new sender as the one from the car had no reading on the ohm meter at all when I moved the arm, I put in a new seal and clip too as I didn't get any of those parts with the car. Once both tanks were in I plumbed them up and wired up the fuel pump too. Still need to make up some vent lines but I'll need to go buy some hose from the auto parts store.
Last jobs n the back end were to install the second cable stay for the bootlid and wire the license plate light.
Back end is pretty much done. Monday I'll run down and see about a battery for it, then I can start testing some of the wiring. Dan found all the missing brackets and parts I need for the dash and he'll send them up so I can carry on with that part too
Dave I've got a bag of about 70. Don't know why i ended up with some many. I am short the bullets themselve so if you could drop a few ( less than 10) the mail that would be good. I'm about done with the 60 mini and don't plan any other mini activity so don't need any stash.
Happy to do so, PM me the address and I'll get on that.
So I noticed that the center panel that holds the switches had some rusty looking spots and since it was out I decided to go ahead and paint it up - talk about going down a rabbit hole! First I had to clean all the rust off and rather than sand it I just took it to the bench grinder's wire brush - that got most of it but there was still some paint around where the switches mount, so I got out the drill and a small wire brush to get in those places, then I took some 500 grit paper and gave it a nice "tooth" so the pain would stick.
Next up a coat of self etch, then topcoat of.....wait a minute, I don't have any light grey paint.
OK, I need to run to the parts store anyway. Nope they don't have it either. OK< Home Depot is just a mile down the road. OK, it's only $4 for can of Rusty Oleum so that will do it.
Back home and I give it a nice squirt - looks fine.....maybe a little light but it will do.
Now I just need to leave it cure out a few days, in the meantime I need to order a new heater cable (this one is rusted solid) and a choke cable as this one is missing. Oh and a speedo cable and, and, and........
I think that happened to me every time I touched something. Then I would goof it up then have to re-do it. I've done everything twice so I've restored it twice. Good experience.
More electrical work.....
The owner has both a TomTom and a GoPro he wanted wired in, and he also wanted a power socket so he can charge his phone. I also needed a power source to run the little washer pump motor. To run all these I decided to set up another sub fuse panel, it's located on the flat part of the dash panel, and because he has a wood dash, it will be hidden but still accessible thru the glove box door. Power comes off the ignition switch and is currently set up to come on with the switch. If he decides he wants them hot all the time it's easy enough to simply move the feed onto another terminal on the ignition switch.
The paint color on the switch panel looks very blue next to the green, even tho the can said "light machinery grey"
So TomTom......done and tested
GoPro.....done
Power socket....done
Washer pump....done
Rally lights....done
I've started testing the other equipment too....wipers work, so do the park lights although the right rear doesn't light, need to see if it's a ground problem or a bulb. Fuel pump runs, motor cranks although I haven't put any fuel in the tanks yet. Till I get everything electrical done I don't want to put gas in them in case I have to remove one or both again.
I haven't located the feed wires for the heater yet, I may have to just make up my own. The two red wires hanging down also need to get located to the light switch - they're for the dash lights.
I think you might find that the power feed for the heater is shared with the power feed to the wiper switch. The Traveller with the "Deluxe" gauges seems to share the wiring with the early S.
While looking for a feed for the electronic gauges, speedo etc., I used the feed from the voltage stabilizer which I found out piggy back feeds to both the heater fan and wipers. I am not sure how this was wrapped in the harness originally or what years it was like this. As there were only two fuses, alot of shared and piggyback wiring existed.
The new fancy electronic gauges did not like it when the wipers were turned on. It has been suggested to use a relay to feed the gauges from the brown wire fuse section.
As the heater has a bullet end on the feed wire I figured there should be a wire somewhere that it plugs into - I just haven't found that loose end yet.....it might be hidden up in the instrument cluster wiring that Dan already had plugged in or I just haven't located it yet - but if there's no loose wire anywhere I'll make one. With only two fuses there are only two circuits really - hot all the time and those switched by the ignition - ie: those green wires. It should have one of those.....
That's also why I did a separate fuse panel for the accessories, if something quits working it'll be easier to check and find the issue, and since all of those accessories are very light loads one 14 ga feed from the ignition switch is all they need.
I did use a relay for the rally lights as the supplied switch is very light duty.
All the panel switches are new - wipers, lights and ignition.
I just need to make sure everything in the cluster, T/S switch and switch panel are working correctly before I put the heater in place. Once that's done I'm close to being done with the car, still need to install the seat belts and the wide band set-up. Oh, and the dash, once the parts from Dan get here.....
Edit: The owner would like the GoPro and TomTom on the live feed, so I'll make that change for him.
Quote from: tmsmini on November 20, 2019, 09:01:18 AM
I think you might find that the power feed for the heater is shared with the power feed to the wiper switch. The Traveller with the "Deluxe" gauges seems to share the wiring with the early S.
While looking for a feed for the electronic gauges, speedo etc., I used the feed from the voltage stabilizer which I found out piggy back feeds to both the heater fan and wipers. I am not sure how this was wrapped in the harness originally or what years it was like this. As there were only two fuses, alot of shared and piggyback wiring existed.
The new fancy electronic gauges did not like it when the wipers were turned on. It has been suggested to use a relay to feed the gauges from the brown wire fuse section
The feed
from the voltage stabilizer (light green) is only 9 volts, I'm surprised your electronic gauges worked at all from that.....the feed TO the voltage stabilizer (DK green) is 12 V, maybe that's why when you run the wipers the gauges don't like it. I would have run a separate feed wire for the gauges , directly off the fuse block. They don't require hardly any amperage so it won't overload that fuse but most electronic gauges are voltage sensitive. Taking the power off the wiper - when the wiper motor starts up the inrush current could drop the voltage momentarily, and it would do it every time the wipers changed direction too.
Quote from: MiniDave on November 20, 2019, 09:34:20 AM
The feed from the voltage stabilizer (light green) is only 9 volts, I'm surprised your electronic gauges worked at all from that.....the feed TO the voltage stabilizer (DK green) is 12 V, maybe that's why when you run the wipers the gauges don't like it. I would have run a separate feed wire for the gauges , directly off the fuse block. They don't require hardly any amperage so it won't overload that fuse but most electronic gauges are voltage sensitive. Taking the power off the wiper - when the wiper motor starts up the inrush current could drop the voltage momentarily, and it would do it every time the wipers changed direction too.
I wasn't clear. The 12 V power feed to the voltage stabilizer has a piggy back connection that then feeds other items, wiper switch and heater fan. I no longer have a voltage stabilizer, newer electronic speedo, electronic oil and coolant gauges. I was just using the 12 V green that feeds the stabilizer. Now I have a separate wire for the gauges and let the original wire feed the wiper switch and fan. Still might add the relay.
OK, we're on the same page now! 77.gif
Pulling your power from the brown side of the fuse panel would give you a better more stable voltage - but then you'd need the relay to turn the gauges on/off by wiring the control circuit of the relay to the ignition side of the fuse panel - that would definitely give you a cleaner power source.
I am assuming you have this version of the wiring diagram.
Yes, I have the factory manual that has that one in it.....the harness we have is for a car with a generator, but we fitted this car with an alternator, so I had to make a few modifications.
More progress....
More electrical work done - all the dash lights work now, I also got the tail lights and brake lights working - the taillight was just a bulb. GoPro and TomTom are wired hot per the owners instructions, but I still have to do the wideband - I had to order a bracket first to mount the dial but I can go ahead and plan where to mount the o2 sensor and weld in the bung, then run the wiring up to the dash. Last thing electrical I need to do is finish wiring the t/s switch and horn. I also got the speedo cable installed. I ordered a new choke cable but got the wrong one so I need to re-order that.
I put in the heater control cable and once the T/S switch is done I can bolt in the heater - then I can run the new heater hoses and top off the coolant.
Tonight I got all the gauges installed and hooked up, and the brackets to attach the wood dash in, then mounted the wood dash - however I think I need some different screws to mount the metal surround to the speedo housing as the heads of the screws hold the wood up off the bracket instead of letting it fit flush. I used pan head screws and I think I need flat heads
With that all done I'll be ready to fire it up.... and maybe take it for a spin!
Edit: forgot, still need to install the handbrake cables and seat belts.....
And another step backwards.....
Trying to hook up the transmission end of the speedo cable I found I couldn't turn the cable end, so I went back up to the instruments end and took the cable out and inserted a small length of inner speedo cable - the speedo is locked up tight.
So I have to disassemble the entire dash again to get the speedo out.
I ordered a new one, till then I'll go ahead with work on the rest of the car.
Tonight I installed the wideband.
First I had to remove the exhaust system, everything from the header back. I had to remove the collector off the header as there were no clamps on it - they are the band style clamps as there's no room between the pipes for regular saddle clamps.
I drilled the hole for the wideband bung and welded it in the pipe, then put it all back together. I ran the cables into the car and hooked it all up, but I won't be able to install the gauge till I get the bracket I ordered. Had to do a little reshaping of the pipe too.....
I'm hopeful that the parts from MiniSpares will get here before the holiday as they've been getting stuff out really quickly lately, but with the holidays it may get delayed.
This evenings work....
I installed the e-brake cables - a thankless job, especially on my lift - a scissor lift is the least ideal arrangement when it comes to working down the middle of the car. But first I had to remove the other cable - it was for a later model car and would not work with this one. Once I got the old one out - which was a single piece cable - I had to install the right ones, which were individual left and right cables.
All done and adjusted now.
Before I can change the locks to match each other I'll have to get a new handle as this one is broken, I added it to the speedo order, I hope they can add it in and ship with the other parts.
Back to work on the '66 Cooper S.......
All the lights have been tested and they work - and no smoke leaked out!
I still don't have the horn working, looking into that.
I had to do a small repair to the speedo housing so I'm waiting for the JB to cure before I re-assemble the dash again, probably not be able to finish that till tomorrow. I also mounted the wideband gauge in the bracket I bought - there were no clips or anything so I just ran some clear silicone around the back and mounted it that way - should work just fine.
I had to get another bulb holder for the temp gauge, and I had to establish grounds for all the instruments.
I took the left door handle and boot handle up to the local locksmith - who was not amused that I keep bringing this old British stuff to him to fix - but he said he'll give it his best shot. The boot latch is siezed, we may not be able to save it and might wind up just buying a whole new lockset.
I also got the new kick panel installed, getting the old rivet heads out without scratching the door was not fun.
Lots of little jobs completed, moving right along now, still have a lot to do but several mountains have been scaled at this point! 77.gif
Don't know how bad the damage was on the binnacle hole but have repaired damaged holes effectively with fiberglass. I think it is paper infused with resin and is pretty similar to fiberglass. Filling and building around the hole works pretty well.
The area around the hole was cracked so I just used a large washer - the JB Weld didn't really hold but the housing is well secured to the bulkhead so it will hold just fine.
I got the dash installed, but I may wind up taking it all back out again tomorrow as I didn't hook up the speedo cable to the speedo and I'm not sure I can get it on as I can't get my hand around the Weber carb.
I also went to a lot of trouble to set up a stud to locate a bunch of ground cables but then once the housing was in place some of them wouldn't reach so now I'll have to set up another.
So, steps forward and then back again.
I also had a fit with the fuel gauge, I had speedo installed and was testing the electrical system and noticed the fuel gauge was pegged full - but the tank is empty. Several hours of testing later I decided the problem was the gauge itself, so I swapped in the old one and it works perfectly now.
So tomorrow - speedo cable, grounds, seat belts, heater and a few other bits and bobs and it's ready to start. We've already had it running but I think this will be the first actual drive.....assuming it does. 77.gif
Went to install the heater, but found I don't have the extension stud that allows you to set the heater left or right depending on whether its a LHD or RHD car. Dan will see if he has one Friday when he gets home again, I looked but found no mention of it on any of the parts sites.
So next up I mounted the seat belts. It's interesting that this car has all the threaded holes to mount the belts except the ones that mount the reel. On later cars the reel is mounted inside the companion bins, but on these early cars that have ashtrays the belt would rub if I mounted it in there, so they have to go on the outside, which does limit seat travel a bit.
More as it happens....
I do not recall when the reel style belts came into use. I do remember that the very first series of 3-point front belts were not the reel kind. The bottom mount was either the outside of the front of the companion box or the inner sill. If the inner sill, then there might be carpet trim that is covering the captive nut.
The one end of the three point does mount to the sill, and there is a threaded hole there, and there is one on the B pillar, and one on the tunnel for the end that plugs in. I drilled some holes as low as possible on the companion bin for the reel to mount to and used the supplied large washer on the inside to help brace it. Dunno if that would keep it from tearing out in an accident, but that's how they come. Short of welding in some sort of brace plate, that's as good as it gets.
Success and failure......
I've been working off and on trying to get the lock in the boot latch to work....I've put about a whole can of Kroil thru it and it felt like just one or maybe two of the tumblers was still stuck. The locksmith just threw up his hands and said he couldn't do anything with it. I've had English car locksets apart before so I stuck with it and today - at last! - I managed to get the lock cylinder out of the handle......sure enough, a couple of the tumblers were still stuck with corrosion, but after cleaning everything up it worked perfectly.
Then I noticed the broken part on the end of the lock cylinder - the part that actually makes the handle lock the boot! It's made from pot metal and I have no idea what it's supposed to even look like for sure, so there's no way I can make one.....I have an idea of what it should look like but again...pot metal. And it's part of the lock cylinder casting, so no hope.
So today I ordered a new boot handle assembly from MiniSpares, when it gets here I can transfer either the lock cylinder or just the tumblers into the new one and he'll still have a matching key set. A new lock is only about £12, so there's no reason not to just get the new one.
Onward and upward!
In the second pic you can see where something is broken off the end of the lock cylinder, in the first pic the small block is what is driven by the missing part - the block is what keeps the handle from turning and locks the latch.
Oh, I also got the horn sorted!
I came up with a way to mount the dome light wires with crimp on ends so I wouldn't have to use bullet ends, Dan can mount the light once he's happy with the headliner. I also got the speedo cable on the speedo and mounted the ground wires, so I think the dash is pretty much done too. I also mounted the inner seatbelt latches......I think all that's left are the heater and rear boot lock assy, once the parts get here next week sometime. I also got a new battery for it, although I still need to run up to Vicky Brits and get the hold down j-bolts. Getting the speedo cable on involved removing the air cleaner and its baseplate so I could get my hand in there, and I had to remove the choke linkage on the carb so I could slightly drill out the arm to accept the choke cable trunnion.
I have to sit down and read the instructions on the camera, every time I disconnect and reconnect the battery the thing switches on - I don't know if it's been recording me the last few days or what!
Dan should be home over the weekend, so soon he'll bring the Inno back and we'll swap cars again. I'll be happy to see this one leave and then I can finish up the Inno, which is really close to being done too.
I have three Sprite gearboxes waiting to be rebuilt, but those go pretty quickly, and Clancy may need some help buttoning up the Moke one of these days. Once all that work is done I'm probably going to retire for a bit and have my knee replaced sometime in late Feb or early March - at last! It's been bothering me for about 10 years now and it's really gotten bad the last 6 months or so.
Once I'm up and around again I have some brake work to do on my Racing Green car unless I get it done in the next few weeks.
I'm also going to upgrade my electrical panel on the house so I can add a bigger air compressor and a media blast cabinet, and get my basement re-organized and cleaned out once and for all.
I've never been so busy as when I retired!
Busy busy !!!!
Most retired people I have spoken too after retiring claim they do not know how they found the time to go to work.
More work on the 66, I decided to hook up the dome light after re-engineering how the wires attach, and it didn't work. So I got out my trusty 12V test light - no power to the light......hmmmm.
So, I checked the wire group under the scuttle and found one wire disconnected, and several that were almost so - the first good bump and some of them would have quit working. However, in order to get to the bunch of wires in that harness I had to remove the wiper assembly as the wires were partly wound around the cross pipe.
That led to another discovery - the fitting that the wiper tube attaches to was cross threaded and partly stripped - I noticed that when the wipers worked they were noisy and slow - I think I found out why. So, yet another trip up to Victoria British - fortunately they carry a fitting - it's a little different but it can be modified to work, which I did. I also disassembled the entire wiper assembly and cleaned and re-greased it all. Now it's much smoother and quieter.....
Back to the wiring.....I also found the wire to the fuel gauge was broken right at the bullet fitting, so I had to make up a short length and splice it into the harness. I also decided enough was enough and made my self a tool to push the Lucas bullets into the tubes. I just took an old pair of farmer pliers and sliced a notch in the jaws - worked a TREAT! I was considering buying the tool that does this but once I looked at it I figured I could make one.
So, first the wiper assembly went in, then I used my new tool to insert all the wires in the tubes and viola! it all works now.
Only took about 4 hours...... ::)
Nice work!!
Thanks!
This project is finally coming to and end - at least at my shop, and I know Dan will be as happy to see the tail lights going over the curb as the owner to finally get behind the wheel and drive.
Today's work....first another step backwards. I leave the doors ajar as there's no reason to latch them, and today I tried to close one and found that it was hitting the door pocket on my freshly installed seat belt reel! I was racking my brains trying to figure out an alternate mounting when the solution hit me in the head - no that was the seat. Anyway, I found that if I just moved them down further, the door bin went right over the top of the reel and didn't impede their use at all. So, two new holes later they're done and work perfectly.
My next project was to install the heater assembly and plumb it up. First I had to make an extension of one if the rear mounting studs - they are offset to allow more room for the accelerator pedal. I didn't take any pics of it but simply welded a nut to the head of a 1" bolt....worked a treat.
Before I could mount the heater I had to make some small modifications to the carpet - cutting a hole to mount the accelerator, cutting around the foot operated dimmer switch and a few other bits. I musta had the piece of carpet in and out of there 20 times before it was all right. Once that was done, it was back to the heater.
Mounting it up is pretty easy, just locate the studs on the mounting brackets on the bulkhead, tighten the right side to pull it as far to the right as it will go, then tighten the left side too. Then you swing it up and run two screws up into their speed nuts and that part is done. After that, just tidy up the wires and make and hook up the two heater hoses. Job done. I still have a knob for the flap control coming, it was broken.
I installed one of those little breather filters on the breather and I think the engine compartment is done now too.
Two things left to do - install the new boot latch assembly after I re-key it to match the door......and one other thing has come to light. After I installed the new battery and hold down I went to tighten the negative cable to the body and the bolt just spun. So I'm going to try and drill the captive nut out and re-thread it for a 3/8 bolt....hope that works!
Good solution. There is always inside the rear "door" pocket too. That's where newer Minis have them.
If by "door pocket" you mean the companion bins in the back they won't fit there, the early cars have an ash tray in the rear companion bins, If I mounted the reel in there the belt would rub on the sheet metal around the ash tray and quickly wear thru, plus I'd be worried that it wouldn't work correctly in a crash. Lastly, the belt would be twisted 180* between the reel and the clip on the B post.
The newer cars don't have the ashtrays in the companion bits, they have one mounted on the floor between the two rear seat positions.
Believe me I looked at everything trying to figure out how to mount these - there are captive nuts welded into the body on the B post and on the inner sill, but no mounting locations on the companion bins or in the center tunnel. Had to just figure those out and drill the holes.....and my first effort on the reels was wrong as I did them with the doors wide open and didn't check properly after I mounted them. The good news is that the reel covers the holes I drilled wrong.
The last parts came in late today, so I got them installed and decided to see if it would run. Took a bit of persuasion but it finally fired and ran,..,..but it has a noise that I couldn't decipher from the driver's seat. I'll see if I can get Don over tomorrow to help me pinpoint it - it sounds kinda like a really bad exhaust leak but I'm just not sure. Besides, I was pretty careful when I put the exhaust back together to make sure it wouldn't have leaks - it almost sounds like a broken header....tomorrow should be a lot warmer too so I can open the garage door and give it a good run....
More as it happens!
Mystery solved.....and it wasn't the exhaust! 71.gif
Turns out it was the fan blades (metal fan) hitting either the shroud or the radiator.....haven't fixed it yet, but I took the two top bolts out of the shroud allowing it to move away slightly and the noise stopped.....so at least I know what it is now.
I was really dreading the idea of pulling that exhaust system off to weld up a cracked header or something.... 62.gif
It will be getting warmer out the next two days, so the snow will be melting off the street and I can take it for a run around the block once I solve this small issue.
It's. A. Live!
I drove the 66 Cooper S around the block a couple of times....I had to do some fettling with the accelerator linkage and managed to get it better, but it's still over- responsive to me. Also the clutch needs some further adjusting or bleeding, I'm afraid I ground 1st a couple of times...odd that it went into reverse OK tho.
Engine is very strong, Weber carb is really loud! The carb will need some tuning on the rolling road, it goes lean under load then clears out and pulls like a train.
I took a video and up loaded it to the Tube of You, but it's unwatchable.....it works fine on my computer but it's all messed up on the Tube.
I'll have to try again..
So, pretty soon you and Dan will be sending that "Franken-Mini" home to its "master"?
It has been a "monster" to get finished.
:D
Yep, it goes back to Dan on the 1st, and the Inno comes back to me for final workup and tuning.
Dan is doing the interior - carpet, door panels etc and trying to get the brakes to hold fluid on the Inno today.....
Oh, I fixed the fan hitting the radiator on the 66 Cooper S by swapping the metal 6 blade out for a yellow 11 blade plastic one. Problem fixed.
OK, lets try this YouTubey thing again....you can skip the first 50 seconds or so, it's just me fiddling with the camera....the noise you hear is not the exhaust, it's the Weber carb!
OK, all you early car experts - how does the dome light attach, or more precisely what does it attach to?
I've pulled the lip of the front half of the headliner down and peeked inside but I don't see anything but roof. I can't
feel anything to the back of the split to screw to either. Anyone have a pic of where it goes pre-headliner installation?
I found one pic online that shows it in the middle of the car, not on the B pillar like the later cars, but I sure don't see any way to attach it.
I am trying to recall back a number of years when I did the interior of a 1961 Mini. I seem to recall a couple of tabs leading forward from the back edge of the front headliner frame. It may also have been just a couple screw holes in that same back edge.
With the material folded over the edge, it may be hard to find the tabs/holes.
OK, on the headliner bow, not the roof itself?
Yes, on the headliner bow.
Michael was right, there is a flat plate on the middle headliner bow where the wires came thru. ...I had to get a bright flashlight and a small mirror, then carefully pull the rear bow down so I could find the holes in the plate, then it was fairly easy from there to locate the screws and attach the light. Job done.
Now that the clutch adjustment (lock nut came loose) and carb linkage adjustments are done I'll take it for one more short run around the block to make sure everything still works and my part will be finished.
Next Wed John, Susan and I (and maybe Don) will load up and head for Ramona and drop the 66 and bring back the Inno.
Don't show up too early the 1st. Our new years party goes till 6am. :(
My expectation is around 12-1 pm.....will that be OK?
Maybe lol. If not I have a key hidden to let yourself in.
Right, I know where it is/was....
Second test drive....steering wheel straightened, clutch and accelerator sorted.... speedo seems pretty accurate too. It will still need to go to someone who knows webers to sort out the carb jetting. I had to bleed the clutch AND, I found out why I was grinding going into 1st - this is a 3 synchro box! Once I stopped completely before I tried to put it into 1st, it never ground once.
Temps and oil pressure were spot on and I REALLY like the smooth a ride cones, this car rides SO much better than my 89, I'm tempted to buy a set for it.
When he gets the car back Dan is going to double check the alignment and finish up a few small details and it's ready at last to go back to the owner. I hope he enjoys it.....it's fun to drive but man is that carb loud. In this video, the bark when I downshifted was the carb, not the exhaust.....
The dual SUs in my Mini Marcos sound similar. The fiberglass firewall transmits all the sound into the cabin.
Fired the 66 up today and drove it around the block again - to get ready to load it on the trailer - and left it on the curb idling while I moved the other cars out of the driveway. Came out to find it dead......tried to start it and no joy. I decided it wasn't getting fuel and as I had just put 5 gallons in this morning I knew it wasn't out of gas, so I changed the solid metal fuel filter in the engine compartment out for a clear one so I could see what was going on. Turned the key and it immediately filled with gas and started right up. Drove it around the block again and all was fine.
When John got here with the trailer I tried to go around the block again to get lined up so I could drive on but it died on me halfway. I've decided it must be the small metal filter in front of the fuel pump that was clogged up as no fuel was getting to the filter even tho the electric pump was running.
I walked back and John and I drove the trailer around to the car - luckily it's pretty easy to push a Mini up onto the trailer, so it's loaded up and ready to go, when we get to Dan's maybe we'll pop that filter out and clean it and drain some gas and see what we get.
Back to Dan! Car started right up and drove off the trailer! grrrr....... ::) 8.gif :-[ 62.gif
Any day now......should be done and back in the owner's hands. Be sure and take a pic when you hand him the keys and of him driving it off. Hope he has hearing protection! ;D ;D
Told him Saturday to come get it. I've dedicated enough time to color sand and buff between my studies to get it done before I'm 100% off the grid.
Away it goes! Had his whole family out to see him drive it home.
A little update to this car and owner. He had reached out towards the end of last year with a list of things he wanted worked on but indicated his health was failing. I never did hear back from him. Found out earlier today he passed a few months later at the age of 78. He owned this car when he was a young man and it sat in garage for another 30 years after it was no longer road worthy. I was trying to find the picture of him with his family driving it away from my shop with a big smile on his face.
The car turned out beautifully, if it shows up for sale at some point it could be a good buy....