I know a couple of you guys have MINIs...wondering if you've had to replace struts, strut mounts, control arm bushings, etc?
My '05 started wandering around the road a couple months ago. Thought it was probably tie rods or ball joints or something normal...but they all seemed to check out ok. Digging deeper I see that both my strut mounts are split and my control arm bushings are almost non existent. Also looks like my strut towers are mushroomed out - definitely never heard of that happening before - wish I'd known BEFORE that last rally. :o
If you did get new ones - what brands? Looking at ProFlex poly control arm bushings...and a Madness strut tower reinforcement plate. Will probably just go stock with the strut mounts; was looking at Ireland Engineering fixed negative camber ones but they're a tad bit more money. I'll be replacing my shocks now, too - anyone have any experience with KYB? I've used their jelly before but not their shocks... :D
Instead of the Madness strut tower plates I was also thinking about talking to a machine shop to see if I could get something like 1/2" thick aluminum plates instead - give me the tower reinforcement plus a little more height for rallying. Think there would be any big implications to that? Like brake lines snapping or alignment that is impossible to get in spec...
Luckily mine has not done that yet.
The gen-1 MINIs had a reputation for such issues when driven "hard" a lot. My 2002 had the suspension bushings start going around 96000 miles of regular driving. It had just the faintest signs of starting to have the tower mushrooming - not enough to be concerned about according to the dealer at that time. The recommendation was to begin considering one of the strut braces with the strengthening plates. They just hammer the mushrooming back down and install the plates and brace. The car got totaled at 111000 mile, so never got addressed.
When you refer to:
QuoteInstead of the Madness strut tower plates I was also thinking about talking to a machine shop to see if I could get something like 1/2" thick aluminum plates instead - give me the tower reinforcement plus a little more height for rallying.
Do you mean clearance between a strut brace and the engine? If so, it may put your brace hitting the bottom of the bonnet. If you were thinking it would increase ground clearance, it won't - the plates mount on top of the towers with extended studs through the strut mounts.
Quote from: MPlayle on July 12, 2013, 07:24:19 AM
Do you mean clearance between a strut brace and the engine? If so, it may put your brace hitting the bottom of the bonnet. If you were thinking it would increase ground clearance, it won't - the plates mount on top of the towers with extended studs through the strut mounts.
A long time ago a friend of mine gave me his old strut tower brace...I think that may have saved my strut towers (but I won't know for sure until I try dropping the bushings out I guess). I only rallied the car on a handful of events, but the last one was extremely brutal...all night getting hammered. I probably owe my buddy a beer.
The plate I'm thinking about would go underneath...between the tower and the strut. This is what I was going to get...
(http://www.madnessmotorworks.com/ProductImages/suspension/Strut-Plates.jpg)
If that thing was 1" thick would it give me 1" more ground clearance?
I don't really think the Madness kit will add ground clearance.
As for extra thick ones, they will either stiffen the spring rate by causing extra compression of the strut's spring - no added clearance, or may cause the spring to keep the strut slightly more extended - which might give additional static clearance, but would also reduce downward travel range of the strut. Reduced downward suspension travel would not be a good thing, especially when encountering pot-holes.
If you already have the Madness kit, It would be a good thing to install to solve your current tower mushrooming. The reasoning of their kit being better than top mounted ones does make sufficient sense to me for the kit's intended purpose: fix/prevent the mushrooming.
Quote from: MPlayle on July 12, 2013, 06:27:45 PM
I don't really think the Madness kit will add ground clearance.
As for extra thick ones, they will either stiffen the spring rate by causing extra compression of the strut's spring - no added clearance, or may cause the spring to keep the strut slightly more extended - which might give additional static clearance, but would also reduce downward travel range of the strut. Reduced downward suspension travel would not be a good thing, especially when encountering pot-holes.
If you already have the Madness kit, It would be a good thing to install to solve your current tower mushrooming. The reasoning of their kit being better than top mounted ones does make sufficient sense to me for the kit's intended purpose: fix/prevent the mushrooming.
Thanks a lot, MP. Sounds like once I get these issues sorted I'll just stick with the current setup - a big skidplate and a lot of praying. ;D
A guy on SpecialStage forum swapped his struts out for STi ones...maybe in the future I'll do something silly like that. There's just a slight difference in the size of the piston :-\
(http://i.imgur.com/2k0qY.jpg)
:-\ Whoa! :-\
I wonder what other mods he had to do to make those fit.
Quote from: MPlayle on July 13, 2013, 01:34:14 PM
:-\ Whoa! :-\
I wonder what other mods he had to do to make those fit.
"Fairly straight forward...sort of..haha cut off the ears to expose the tube body, then cut off and weld the Mini brackets to the STI strut. The STI spring seat stays in the same place but I had to put a metal shim around the base of the STI strut tube as it was a slighty smaller diameter than the original Mini strut. Finally I cut a hole in the strut tower to accept the bigger STI top mount. With standard STI road springs the stiffness seems about right."
Full build thread:
www.specialstage.com/forums/showthread.php?45489-The-rally-Mini-build (http://www.specialstage.com/forums/showthread.php?45489-The-rally-Mini-build)
There's a guy over there building a Fiat600 tube frame rally car...(gotta admire the effort, but I'd put money on the organizers sending him packing) - his friend is building a Mini - with...19" Fox racing suspension. Talk about :-\
(http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x392/yetiking303/photo-1.jpg)
(http://i1179.photobucket.com/albums/x392/yetiking303/photo1-1.jpg)
Going under the knife starting today.
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-2LQn9wG/0/L/smugshot_5417607-L.jpg)
KYB shocks/struts, Lemfoerder strut bushings (OEM supposedly), poly control arm bushings, pads/rotors...skipping the strut tower brace for now - will see how bad it looks when I get in there. I'll probably add a plate in the future, but I didn't want to mess around with trying to find longer studs for the strut bushings, etc - I need to get it inspected this month or I'll have to commute in the Rover... :o
I also de-stripe'd the hood (crappy cell pic - it's not really yellow):
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-s4vXqrz/0/L/smugshot_4169438-L.jpg)
Thought I'd need to heat them up or something - nope. Peeled right off. I'm thinking flat black for the hood, leaving the intake white still...after grinding off the rust, that is. :(
Good Project .. Susspension stuff shouldnt be bad at all - and will freshen up the suspension like you never knew before.
Good call on the stripes- and keeping the rust at bay...
Flat black -- I say- give it some grunt- Do Texture Coat -- like truck bed liner or Paintable Undercoat...
I think you saw "diddys" van on MiniMania.... Yea!! tough!!
Quote from: jedduh01 on August 02, 2013, 05:44:50 AM
Good Project .. Susspension stuff shouldnt be bad at all - and will freshen up the suspension like you never knew before.
I bet...the strut bushings are torn almost all the way around. Can't believe they're still holding up.
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-dSPmccR/0/L/smugshot_1303774-L.jpg)
Didn't see the van - but when I was reading your post the other day about your floors I was thinking it looked pretty cool. I'll start with some dark primer to see if I even like it at all...
Yesterday I managed to get the left side strut out...disassembled it. Had to heat the control arm a bunch to get the outer balljoint separated - so will need to replace that since I burned the boot up. Used a big puller and some heat to get the inner to pop. Couldn't for the life of me get the bushing housing out - they make it look so easy on youtube... ::)
So I hit it again this morning some - still couldn't get it out. Really don't want to pull the subframe...
Hit a much larger stumbling block this morning, though - snapped off the frickin' strut pinch bolt on the right side!!! I'd read that could happen and it scared the crap out of me so I heated it a lot...had been soaking it with penetrating oil, too. ARGH!!!!!!!!!!!
No clue how to attack it now. I guess I need to get that whole carrier out somehow, with the strut attached. And then I'll probably buy a used carrier. Never had much luck in drilling things like that out and digging out the pieces...fk.
I did some more research...looks like the second gen cars use a bolt/nut for holding the strut instead of a bolt into threads in the carrier - great idea! 50.gif
So I think I'll try to drill out the broken bolt and upgrade to the nut/bolt on the right side - will leave the bolt in the left side and take my chances when it hits 340k miles and I have to do this again. Now my hope is I can get a drill in there and drill it out in place - I REALLY don't want to try to get the axle nut off to remove the entire assembly from the car...
My own personal little hell.
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-76g4N3F/0/L/smugshot_6575182-L.jpg)
Still need to get the stupid bushing out, too. It's pretty mangled at this point.
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-2M2fZ6V/0/L/smugshot_4075703-L.jpg)
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-LxWLZLM/0/L/smugshot_7510867-L.jpg)
Fun fun.
Yikes
Man I love living in the south - Rust - Old Bolts Not an issue!
- I would nearly be looking for a used Spindle.and lower control arm from a used / salvage car...ALl that trouble for Bleh!!
Goodluck.
Seeing that makes me glad I had a dealership do the ones on my 2002 MCS when it needed them replaced at 96K miles. Did another 15K miles on the car before it got totaled.
I just did a search over on NAM and found this thread that may be of help:
http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/246754-lca-bushing-lower-ball-joint-fun.html (http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/246754-lca-bushing-lower-ball-joint-fun.html)
Quote from: MPlayle on August 05, 2013, 02:43:25 PM
Seeing that makes me glad I had a dealership do the ones on my 2002 MCS when it needed them replaced at 96K miles. Did another 15K miles on the car before it got totaled.
I just did a search over on NAM and found this thread that may be of help:
http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/246754-lca-bushing-lower-ball-joint-fun.html (http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/246754-lca-bushing-lower-ball-joint-fun.html)
Thanks - some of those tips will definitely help. I was wondering about using a cutting torch on the metal bushing sleeve...it would heat up/melt off easily before cutting into the much heavier metal of the housing...and if the car burns, insurance should cover it!
Passenger side...out! It wasn't pretty...or fun. Or even pretty fun.
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-gQsV79r/0/L/smugshot_8891435-L.jpg)
Used a combo of blind sawzall'ing and air chisel'ing. I think the big issue is that when I pulled my control arm out part of the bushing remained - so I'm not only trying to get the thin metal sleeve out but the thicker metal and rubber of the nougaty center, too.
Now back to the drivers side... 11.gif
Beating it to a pulp!
Just got the other side out, too. Sawzall made all the difference.
I'd beat the outer metal inward so the inside wouldn't come out. Once that was removed the outer part was easy. er.
Bazinga!
My later style pinch bolts are in at the dealer, too...need to attack that headache next. She's a lot like a real Mini at this point - the parts of the front subby not protected by the engine oil pouring on it are all rusted out... 4.gif
Looks like it blew a seal....'nah, it's just a little ice cream'...
Speaking of beating to a pulp...this thing took a good walluping before giving up - outer balljoint:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-kxBZbDz/0/L/smugshot_4952783-L.jpg)
But things are starting to go back together slowly. And I'm finally getting to use the fun stuff I got for the '80...just the wrong frickin' car.
Put these in the sandblast cabinet and cleaned them up - then a couple coats of POR (the red is so the springs look good when it's upside down ;D):
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-B857q2T/0/L/smugshot_4307637-L.jpg)
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-tZPVZH9/0/L/smugshot_832562-L.jpg)
How would one go about torquing the upper strut nut without the special tool? Funny some of the 'professional' how-to's just say to put it back on, nothing about torque or how to hold the shock when doing it. ::)
Red springs add 10 horsepower. 4.gif
Finally got the drill bit I needed to drill out the broken pinch bolt. Then I shanked the actual drilling of the hole. Had no room to really work in there and the drill apparently preferred to chew out the metal of the knuckle instead of biting into the bolt. 50.gif
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-LBXfN75/0/L/smugshot_6156098-L.jpg)
Found a used one not too far from here for $50 on car-parts.com - will drive down and take a look...
What's it been - 3 weeks since I started this? These look ready:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-x5p8rfP/1/L/smugshot_5959229-L.jpg)
1 corner done.
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-t3XdTph/0/L/smugshot_9961022-L.jpg)
The left rear worries me some...never experienced this sort of brake rotor 'failure'? Would you call it failure? Still plenty of pad left.
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-dQwGVpv/1/L/smugshot_6777793-L.jpg)
Think maybe the caliper is seized? I was able to thread it back in, though. I do think I broke one of the emergency brake cables fooling around in the driveway - wondering if it locked the brake on a little. Don't like the sound of replacing it - 'remove exhaust'....here we go again. ::)
This has turned into quite the project. I need to do my brakes but keep pushing it back.
How many miles on your car now?
I think I may have found the issue with that rotor - when I was putting the new one on it was hitting the edge of the carrier a little bit. Wonder if it was the last time I'd replaced the rotors - 80k miles ago. I buzzed off the rust scale on the hub so the new rotor would sit flush and cleaned up the edges of the carrier with a file and it now has a little breathing room.
You think THIS is a project...wait'll I finally update my build thread about the wings... 22.gif
So this was as deep as I had to go - spindle/knuckle finally out:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-5ngHPPr/0/L/smugshot_9758090-L.jpg)
Added to the junk pile. Good f'ing riddance:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-5tF8kC4/0/L/smugshot_1305307-L.jpg)
Used one goes in - I kept the original patina so it wouldn't look out of place.
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-TZdjk3h/0/L/smugshot_823708-L.jpg)
I never thought I would say I was happy to have a nut on my knuckle (ended up drilling out both sides and upgrading to nut/bolts for the pinch bolts):
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-NZT94zT/0/L/smugshot_1188588-L.jpg)
Complete! I left the junkyard part # on it as a constant reminder to myself of good times. 11.gif
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-KFsPgTc/0/L/smugshot_864416-L.jpg)
Final pile of junk for this job.
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-7VH9TQh/0/L/smugshot_7152026-L.jpg)
Back outside and took it for a test ride and tried to follow the 30-0 and 70-30 bed-in procedure for the Mintex pads. All seems ok - just need an alignment!
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-6XJ9qWG/0/L/smugshot_3679375-L.jpg)
Now Coop is asking for help on his...not again... ::)
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-DXk9K2j/0/L/smugshot_6368662-L.jpg)
MP gets the MVP on this one - using the sawzall and using a ratchet strap to pull the control arm into place were life savers. Was a killer trying to get the control arm back into place but up onto the inner balljoint all at the same time...ratchet strap made all the difference. 4.gif
Back to the '80! After the LR3 gets new control arms, that is. 50.gif
Hopefully I don't have that much work involved on mine any time soon. She's about to hit 100K and up for sale once I get some things in order, like my truck running.
Hate to bump up a thread of bad memories [for me]...but was wondering if any of you guys had any idea what would be causing this:
(http://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-XQLLBjW/0/L/smugshot_3588524-L.jpg)
It's the same corner that the rotor that was completely trashed was on - bad caliper? Can't imagine what else would cause it, although I think it's the same side on the rear that the handbrake cable is broken on...
Thanks
Am I looking at the side of a tire that's worn down unevenly?
Quote from: 94touring on October 17, 2013, 06:04:45 PM
Am I looking at the side of a tire that's worn down unevenly?
Ok, I need you to focus here... ;D
It probably is worn a little unevenly, but not as bad as that pic makes it look. I'm sure with all those suspension pieces worn way past their expiration date the alignment was shot (plus the tires are due to be replaced, anyway).
I think I'm going to sell those rims and just go with the black steelies the snows are on. I like the black on the white car...
Knew I had a thread going where I whined about working on my MINI...
How about this sludge?
(https://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-bJ6R44p/0/X2/20151216_144455-X2.jpg)
The left side of the oil cooler must be 3/4 full. Suppose I should have changed my coolant once or twice in 10 years/200k miles? :-[
On a good note, though, I got my short shift kit installed finally. Also putting in new shift cables while everything is open.
(https://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-WCMbXHW/0/X2/20151215_175838-X2.jpg)
On the transmission front I received the LSD, clutch, etc, so that can start going back together as well.
Couple fun pics from that:
The guts:
(https://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-6jKh3v8/0/X2/20151211_224542-X2.jpg)
Old diff:
(https://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-dRBBFKf/0/L/20151211_224552-L.jpg)
Score on the input shaft? Not sure if it's supposed to be there or not - the guys at minigearboxes.co.uk were very helpful...in the end they suggested tearing it down. Ah, ok...maybe not today...
(https://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-Vh29b9s/0/L/20151211_222134-L.jpg)
Hopefully start rebuilding the tranny this weekend!
Looks like fun. Any thoughts of upgrading the guts while you're in there? Do these cars even "need" an upgrade if you're not throwing in power adders?
The Getrag transmission is very robust, I've seen guys running 400hp thru a stock box with no issues.
Quote from: MtyMous on December 16, 2015, 05:07:23 PM
Looks like fun. Any thoughts of upgrading the guts while you're in there? Do these cars even "need" an upgrade if you're not throwing in power adders?
I want to do this low ratio crown wheel/pinion so bad I can taste it:
(http://www.minisport2.com/mini-parts/crown-wheel.jpg)
http://www.minisport2.com/mini-parts/info_FDRCG14.html
If I hadn't just dumped $2k into it I'd jump on it. Can't imagine how it would jump off the line with that. Maybe next winter.
Not sure I'm ready for a dog box, but MiniSport has a Quaife setup as well:
http://www.minisport2.com/mini-parts/info_QKE34Z.html
Stupid question for you guys...when I was tearing this down it seemed like every electrical connector I'd touch, the clips would just shatter. No matter how careful I was...guessing 10 years of living outside has just made them brittle. But now what?
Last year when I was doing something on the control arm I snapped the clip off one of the traction control sensors (I think that's what it was, anyway). I pushed it in as far as I could and put a zip tie around it...seemed to hold up ok. What's the real official way to fix this stuff? Do they sell new connectors to solder on or something? Once I start really rallying it I'm guessing the old 'push-and-pray-it'll-just-stay' will lead to lots of DNFs...
Thx
I'd just use zip ties on 'em.....
But yes you can buy new connectors, you'll also need the special tools to remove and reinsert the pins but no need to change the wires if only the plastic is broken.
Quote from: MiniDave on December 31, 2015, 10:00:52 AM
I'd just use zip ties on 'em.....
But yes you can buy new connectors, you'll also need the special tools to remove and reinsert the pins but no need to change the wires if only the plastic is broken.
Oh...gotcha. I was thinking it would be more like a pigtail...I'd have to chop the old one off and solder the wires together.
Thanks MD!
As long as it's just the clip that's broken and not the body that holds the wires, a zip tie thru the wires and around the two halves of the connector will do the same job the clip did, unless this is something that will be unhooked and re-hooked many times, I'd just zip them together and not worry about it....myself. I'd use those really small, thin zip ties.....
Quote from: MiniDave on December 31, 2015, 11:42:08 AM
unless this is something that will be unhooked and re-hooked many times
With the quality of my work I certainly wouldn't bet
against that!
I called MINI and they said they do have some, but others would require a new wiring harness (the engine harness piece is $317).
Zip ties work! 4.gif
If you scroll down this page on Real OEM you can see repair kits for a number of different connectors.....
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partgrp?id=MF73-USA-02-2007-R56-Mini-Cooper_S&mg=61 (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partgrp?id=MF73-USA-02-2007-R56-Mini-Cooper_S&mg=61)
I don't know if any of these are the ones you need, but there are quite a variety available - at least on order.
Quote from: MiniDave on December 31, 2015, 01:07:22 PM
If you scroll down this page on Real OEM you can see repair kits for a number of different connectors.....
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partgrp?id=MF73-USA-02-2007-R56-Mini-Cooper_S&mg=61 (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/partgrp?id=MF73-USA-02-2007-R56-Mini-Cooper_S&mg=61)
I don't know if any of these are the ones you need, but there are quite a variety available - at least on order.
Cool, thanks. So you can't buy off that site, its just parts diagrams? I looked at the water pipe I just bought - paid $180 at the dealer and this shows $107...must be cost or something...
I have been replacing a few things on my Bmini and shop here quite a bit. This site (even though it has lots of tuning upgrades ) also has a great number of factory parts at really good prices if you are wanting to use original parts / pieces....
https://www.ecstuning.com
It helps to pull the numbers from parts a diagram and just enter them in the ecs search , otherwise you could dig for a bit. Especially with harness clips and things . I am still looking for brake booster vaccuum line harness clip I broke....ended up hot melting it back together and so far so good.
http://parts.miniofkennesaw.com - has some good parts diagrams with numbers...also good prices and service.
The pics and diagrams on the real OEM site are well organized, great link ...WOW....thanks MiniDave for that info.
I use Real OEM to look up part numbers, then just type the number into Google to look for the best price and stockist.
Another cool thing about RealOem, if you click on the part number it gives you a list of everything that part is used on....a lot of them are used thru out the entire BMW lineup....if your local MINI store doesn't stock it, the BMW dealer might.
Hey Pat have you replaced your fuel filter? I just ordered two one for the 2003 project and one for my 2004. I thought they were in they tank and they are but with a access hole under the back seat for changing them when you try to buy from a parts store they say its not replaceable but i used the referenced site realoem to look up the number then bought two on ebay for 20 each.
Jeff
Quote from: jeff10049 on January 03, 2016, 01:25:45 PM
Hey Pat have you replaced your fuel filter? I just ordered two one for the 2003 project and one for my 2004. I thought they were in they tank and they are but with a access hole under the back seat for changing them when you try to buy from a parts store they say its not replaceable but i used the referenced site realoem to look up the number then bought two on ebay for 20 each.
Jeff
NICE!
No, I have not - it's been on my to-do list for about a year...my car starts pretty hard when cold so hoping that might cure it. $20 sounds like I might have to finally do it, let us know how the swap goes!
It's back together!
(https://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-K5Rv3fs/0/L/20160105_143509-L.jpg)
I was able to back it out of the garage and drive back in even...so it seems like the clutch and LSD install was a success.
Unfortunately...ya, suck.
When it started there was a lot of vibration - I did, however, install a poly lower engine mount and they say it will vibrate. However - when it fired up the idle jumped up high, then it settled down but continued to hunt for the idle some. I got out to look around to check for leaks, etc...and noticed this:
(https://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-chTSgcD/0/L/20160105_171022-L.jpg)
Not having ever looked at my exhaust in low light before I'm not sure that's right...I do remember punching out Cats on MGBs back in the day, though... 8.gif
The only thing I did to the exhaust was separate it just after the Cat when I was putting in the new shift cables, put a new flange gasket in and buttoned it up, that's it.
Guessing the hunting idle is a vacuum leak or something. I had the throttle body and the hard pipe just after that off. Guess I'll start tearing things apart tomorrow. Front end service mode, here we come again! 50.gif
Actually, a quick Google and this sounds familiar:
http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/198830-cherry-red-exhaust-manifold.html
I had trouble getting my fingers in to push the hard plastic tubes into that pipe downstream from the throttle body - meant to grab a needlenose or something to make sure they were seated. I can reach the far end of the black one and it feels totally loose...bugga! Really hope I can get in there by just sliding the radiator forward [after frickin' taking the bumper cover and bumper off, of course]. 11.gif
Onward and upward!
Ok, well...that was it. One of the tubes was completely disconnected. I just had to jack it up and take off the front wheels. Oh, and take off the bumper cover...bumper...crashtubes...skidplate...top radiator hose...throttle body...intake hoses...and intercooler. And then the thing was like, right there! Easy peasy! :(
While I was under the car I also switched back to the old lower engine mount. There was so much vibration I was worried that I might have screwed up something with the clutch. As soon as the old mount was in place, no vibration though. Man - I can't imagine if I had a street car and put that thing on!!!
Now I need to get it through state inspection. Will need to put the stock (airbag equipped)steering wheel and passenger airbag back in first. Real rally cars in Maine obviously have friends with stickers since you can't mess with things like airbags, seatbelts, etc. Cheaters!
I did it,
It's easy take out the back seat just pull on it the filter is under the passenger cover on the floor after the cover is off use something to tap the ring off the filter housing it has bumps to put a punch against lefty loose threads. Then pull up the filter housing some it don't come all the way out. The top twist about 1/4 turn the pulls off. To expose the filter mine was way nasty the cheap one I bought came with all orings and appears to be oem all numbers match the oe that's good if it was way shitty looking I was going to just run it a short time. My car was also starting shitty I'll let you know how it starts tomorrow. The shit on the rag next to it was just from a light wiping of the filter outside.
link to cheap good filters
http://www.ebay.com/itm/401048468711?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
(edit) started without stalling this morning.
AWESOME - thanks! 4.gif
First race after all my work is tomorrow...fingers crossed...my 2 hour drive up there is now going to be 3 due to a rain/snowstorm mess. A few hours up, 8 or so runs, a few hours home. What could go wrong? ::)
Other things I did during this downtime was install a 'trackmat' over the uneven floor (and new shifter in there as well):
(https://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-6c4gQhk/0/X2/20160110_171704-X2.jpg)
Made up some resistors for my passenger side airbag so hopefully the light will go out and I can get an inspection sticker (had to put the stock wheel back on, too):
(https://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-2nm6Hvs/0/L/20160113_131446-L.jpg)
Gotta love the look of the Quaife sitting there (transmission work stand is a great use for 10" tires):
(https://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-qwqCDcD/0/X2/20151223_135712-X2.jpg)
Here's a fun one. If you replace your inner balljoints while the subframe is out of the car - DON'T FORGET TO PUT THE HEADLIGHT LEVELLING SENSOR BACK ON BEFORE PUTTING THE SUBFRAME BACK IN! 50.gif
(https://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-8hPSJ4H/0/X2/20160105_093113-X2.jpg)
I ended up opening up the stupid bracket because it was either that or pulling the axle out to get the bolt removed.
(https://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-kX3fhkP/0/X2/20160105_094649-X2.jpg)
Here's my final list for this project:
Quaife LSD
Valeo clutch kit
Diff bearings/oil
Guide tube
BSH lower engine mount
Rennline track mat
Megan Racing short shifter
input shaft seal
rear main seal
axle seals
oil cooler and 'o' rings
oil cooler coolant supply pipes
oil cooler hoses
Shift cable
Shift cable
Clips for above
Balljoints – both inners, OEM
Used steel rims & Blizzaks (can't have too many sets of rims...)
Next up...installing the race seats I got last month. 4.gif
Quote from: jeff10049 on January 11, 2016, 09:34:18 PM
link to cheap good filters
http://www.ebay.com/itm/401048468711?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
(edit) started without stalling this morning.
Replaced my filter this afternoon - now no starty! The only thing I can think I did was yank up on the filter housing too much and pull something out underneath. I watched the ModMini video for tips...nothing seemed out of the ordinary - fk! Cranks and cranks...never fires.
How long did it take to build pressure back up????
Is it possible the lid o ring rolled out or broke and the pressure is just getting dumped back into the tank? I cycled the key twice and it fired I also pulled the shit out of my housing up out of the tank and nothing bad happened.
Can you hear the pump?
Also most say you need about 1/3 to 1/2 tank for it to properly purge.
Saw this on nam This is an excerpt from Pelican's filter DIY:
UPON INSTALLING NEW FILTER,
Take the upper cover and carefully line up the tabs on it (it can only go in one way) with the tabs on the lower filter housing. Take care to make sure the upper cover is directly seated on the filter element. If it isn't, the car WON'T START. We found this out the hard way after re-assembling the fuel system. Once the upper cover is seated, rotate it clockwise until it stops. This will lock it in place.
What he said, make sure you have a decent amount of gas in the tank. Try cycling the ignition on and off several times letting the fuel pump run until the safety turns it off, do not start.
On our BMW's it takes quite a few cycles on the ignition to get the pressure back up.
You did put the filter in the correct direction. Not sure if you can turn it backwards just throwing ideas out there.
Thanks guys. I went out yesterday to see how much fuel was in the tank (when I was plotting this out previously I thought I'd wait until the tank was almost empty) - but it has 3/4 in it.
Filter doesn't have an in/out that I know of, can go either way (at least, according to the ModMini video). The only piece I didn't like was the upper cover fitment. I put the gasket in place on the housing first, slid the lid down into it and it was up just a tad - figured I'd use the ring to draw it down...maybe that was the problem.
About to tear it down, hopefully it's something obvious!
Bazinga, Jeff! It was the lid 'o' ring. Thinking back, I had started to put the cover in place before realizing I needed to put the fuel tank seal in place first - I bet when I pulled it out the 'o' ring came off - when I took it apart this time I had to fish it out from down around the filter. It was all swollen up, had to use the old one. Then it fired up instantly. :-[ Thanks!
Next up, airbag light. I bought a new tool so I can reset it but I get like 5 different codes that won't go away...even when I put my stock steering wheel and set the passenger bag in place. Kind of thinking with all those codes it may be the control module. Passenger seat belt tensioner, some resistance thing, etc.
I did get my check engine light out after 2 years or so. Frickin' gas cap! The code said that as a possible issue, but I didn't believe it...I always first jump to the conclusion that it's some huge issue. :-[
It was nice and clean in there, too. How the heck does a chipmunk or mouse get up inside there, anyway!
(https://mudhen.smugmug.com/Cars/05MINI/i-vCL5ZXb/0/X2/20160130_110730-X2.jpg)