My Mini stinks. And I've put up with a fuel smell inside the car for way too long. In fact, when I park it in the garage my habit has been to leave the boot lid open, because if I leave it closed the entire car ends up with an odor of gasoline inside. So it's been an annoyance, but I found a way around it.
I finally decided to fix it. I thought the odor might be coming from the fuel tank vent hose. But I verified that was not it. So today I drained and pulled the tank out and I discovered a discolored boot floor from what must be the world's slowest leak. Just enough to produce a gasoline odor, but not enough to do anything other than stain the paint under the tank. It was completely dry there.
Next step: New tanks are very expensive, so I'm going to try and restore and seal the tank with the POR15 fuel tank kit. Has anyone here ever used that product? From my research it looks like meticulously following the prep is the key to getting it to work. Should seal up any pinhole leaks or seam leaks.
I've used POR15 and it bonds really well with good prep work. Definitely wear a respirator with organic vapor filters! Aside from the need for good degreasing and etching to make a successful application; POR15 is also susceptible to UV degradation. Though the fuel tank would unlikely need any topcoat to protect it.
Can you even identify the spot where it's leaking?
I used the POR15 system with perfect results. MY fume problem (the car, not me) resulted from a porous fillet neck. Minis came with a foam rubber donut around the neck, which did a wonderful job of holding moisture.
If you got the motorcycle repair kit, it came with some gauze to repair weak or damaged tank areas. I wrapped it around the neck and applied the POR15 to the outside while coating the tank inside. Job done.
NOTE: Before you start the cleaning process, you need o remove the screen element from the tip of the outlet pipe. You do that by pushing it off from the outside through the little pipe, then shake it out and add it to your "can't throw old bits out" collection.
I got the motorcycle kit plus an additional small can so I wouldn't run short. It is a 2-part coating system, so use it outdoors. Fumes were not a problem for me. Leave it to cure outdoors The stuff sticks to anything, including concrete and the painted exterior of the tank, so protect your work area.
I used a kit called "Red Coat", stay away from the "white" coating kits - no idea who makes them but that was used on Don's Pup tank and it flaked off clogging the inlet pipe and leaving him stranded more than once. He took the ultimate parts choice and bought a stainless steel tank.
I had the red coat in my Jag and after 30 years it still looked perfect......the Jag tank was also porous in spots and this stuff did the job.
POR is generally good stuff, so I would hope it does the trick but make sure it's compatible with ethanol fuels.
My green Mini is also plagued with the smell in the boot and the rest of the car, I also see no evidence of a fuel leak and wonder if I have a similar issue?
Quote from: 94touring on November 12, 2025, 07:05:53 AMCan you even identify the spot where it's leaking?
Not a clue. I suspect the pinch seam, but haven't found it.
Quote from: Dan Moffet on November 12, 2025, 07:21:28 AMI used the POR15 system with perfect results. MY fume problem (the car, not me) resulted from a porous fillet neck. Minis came with a foam rubber donut around the neck, which did a wonderful job of holding moisture.
If you got the motorcycle repair kit, it came with some gauze to repair weak or damaged tank areas. I wrapped it around the neck and applied the POR15 to the outside while coating the tank inside. Job done.
NOTE: Before you start the cleaning process, you need o remove the screen element from the tip of the outlet pipe. You do that by pushing it off from the outside through the little pipe, then shake it out and add it to your "can't throw old bits out" collection.
I got the motorcycle kit plus an additional small can so I wouldn't run short. It is a 2-part coating system, so use it outdoors. Fumes were not a problem for me. Leave it to cure outdoors The stuff sticks to anything, including concrete and the painted exterior of the tank, so protect your work area.
Dan, thanks for all the pointers. I didn't know about that little screen and I'm sure the sealant would clog that up very easily.
I've heard about that foam ring around the filler neck causing rust, but that doesn't seem to be the case on my tank. Actually, the foam seems to be in really good shape and seems to be of the closed-cell variety.
I think after I go through the entire process to coat the inside of the tank with a special fuel tank stuff, I will take an extra step and use some POR15 I have sitting around the garage, (the black stuff used for suspension and frames) and paint the outside of the tank to sort of double seal it.
Quote from: MiniDave on November 12, 2025, 09:03:21 AM...
POR is generally good stuff, so I would hope it does the trick but make sure it's compatible with ethanol fuels.
My green Mini is also plagued with the smell in the boot and the rest of the car, I also see no evidence of a fuel leak and wonder if I have a similar issue?
Yes, it's supposed to be able to handle ethanol laced fuels. I do my best to avoid them, but sometimes you gotta take whatever fuel is available.
Your Mini could very well have the same problem. As I said, there was no evidence of any leak visible while the tank was installed. And I really don't understand how it didn't eat through the paint under the tank. Just discolored it.
I have a bunch of things I need to take care of on the green one, but unfortunately, it's got a full tank right now, I need to do another long run and burn off the gas. It's a 9 gallon tank and I learned the hard way - it means it when full!
Quote from: MiniDave on November 12, 2025, 10:22:19 PMI have a bunch of things I need to take care of on the green one, but unfortunately, it's got a full tank right now, I need to do another long run and burn off the gas. It's a 9 gallon tank and I learned the hard way - it means it when full!
My Mini's tank was about 3/4 full and it took a while to drain it using a 1 gal. can. Took about 6 iterations to empty it. Fortunately, my wife's car needed gas so I was able to dispose of it that way.
With the tank out of the car it should be possible to find the leak. Pressurize the tank, a bicycle pump should work, and spray it with soapy water. Just like a leaking tire. When you find the leak it can be soldered if it's not too rusty. Radiator shops can usually do this work.
I have an empty 5 gal just I can use, but I ran it over full one time not realizing how much gas was in the car!
Pressurizing it is a good idea, but it's pretty obvious where Bruce's is leaking.....I hope mine leaves similar evidence......my tank is pretty clean inside so it shouldn't take much to prep it for the sealer.
This is the stuff they used on my old Jag that worked a treat!
Red Kote (https://www.ebay.com/itm/300926418088?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1cOAafIieSP-XY7Lwci0OaQ48&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-173151-913341-5&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=300926418088&targetid=2450757681257&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9023906&poi=&campaignid=23193934536&mkgroupid=189287338282&rlsatarget=pla-2450757681257&abcId=10495180&merchantid=137698880&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=23193934536&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh8-wRzXsEDvBg0FyYwQTLxT7&gclid=CjwKCAiAoNbIBhB5EiwAZFbYGERuS5jFx4uln-Rg7Mk3CXKytiABK4K_gH2ylDDlupBz5-x2RxDBkxoC218QAvD_BwE)
I like that the POR kit has the cleaner and metal etch with it too.....I may go that route as well.
This is the kit I used on my moke tank. I was pleased with the finish. It seems to holding up well. https://www.kbs-coatings.com/kbs-tank-sealer-system
So, how did it turn out? How did you block off the sender unit hole to clean the inside of the tank? How long do you leave the cleaner and metal etch in it before you rinse it out? Does it all just rinse with water? How dry does the tank have to be before you can put the sealer in it? Did you find the actual place where it was leaking?
I'm planning to pull the tank on the green car next week.....
Quote from: MiniDave on November 19, 2025, 08:47:06 AMSo, how did it turn out? How did you block off the sender unit hole to clean the inside of the tank? How long do you leave the cleaner and metal etch in it before you rinse it out? Does it all just rinse with water? How dry does the tank have to be before you can put the sealer in it? Did you find the actual place where it was leaking?
I'm planning to pull the tank on the green car next week.....
I didn't use POR15 to seal a tank per se, but when I used it for the underside of my car, both the degreaser and etch were water-soluble. The degreaser seemed similar to Simple Green, and the etch I think was phosphoric acid. The enamel cures based on humidity; the more moisture, the quicker it cures.
Quote from: MiniDave on November 19, 2025, 08:47:06 AMSo, how did it turn out? How did you block off the sender unit hole to clean the inside of the tank? How long do you leave the cleaner and metal etch in it before you rinse it out? Does it all just rinse with water? How dry does the tank have to be before you can put the sealer in it? Did you find the actual place where it was leaking?
I'm planning to pull the tank on the green car next week.....
Haven't started yet. I just received the POR kit 2 days ago. But I've been reading the instructions and watching videos. Tomorrow I'll start with the degreasing process. There's 2 degreasing steps and each one is at least 4 hours long, or longer. You've got to put the solution in the tank and move it around to different positions to let all interior services soak for several hours. Then you rinse it, and repeat with the second bottle of degreaser. The goal is to remove all gum and varnish and crud and loose rust that has built up over the years. I'm going to add a bunch of drywall screws to help scrub the inside of the tank. No doubt that will take up most of my day tomorrow.
The second big step is to put in the metal prep and again rotate it around to cover all surfaces before eventually draining it out.
Now the clock starts ticking because there's a strong possibility of the interior of the tank flash rusting after the metal prep step. So the interior must be quickly dried with warm air to ensure there is absolutely no moisture in the tank. They recommend using a hairdryer or heat gun. And they say to definitely not use an air compressor because minute amount of oil will get in the tank and keep the sealant from adhering properly.
Final step is to carefully mix the sealant and put it in the tank and rotate it all over to coat every surface before draining the excess out. Then it's a 96-hour wait time before the sealant fully cures.
I will update my progress here.
This guy's video on the process is pretty easy to follow as he goes by the detailed instructions written by the British distributor of POR15.
Aw crap. Not having luck removing the fine filter screen at the end of the pickup tube in the bottom of the tank.
I've tried hitting it through the sender hole to dislodge it. But just succeeded in bending the pick up tube. Gonna try to get something flexible enough and strong enough to go through the pickup tube and try and push it off...
Do you have any long handled needle-nose pliers to reach in and try to unscrew it or break it apart to remove it?
Okay. I now know what didn't work.
Striking the mesh filter to knock it off the end of the tube didn't budge it and resulted in the tube bending from a position in the center of the tank to pushing it to one side. The mesh filter is now half collapsed but still completely attached to the tube. I'm concerned that hitting it more may cause the pick up tube to crack or break off entirely where it joins the tank wall.
Next I tried fishing a thin, solid rod through the tube into the tank to try and knock off the mesh filter, but the curvature of the tube at the end is too too tight to get the rod all the way through.
Then I bought some stainless steel wire rope cable, frayed one end so it was expanded, greased it up, and fed it through the tube, and spun it with a drill in the hope that it would provide sort of a rotor-router effect and break off the wire mesh filter so I could retrieve it through the sender hole. All that did was to pierce the wire mesh filter, but it did not entrap it.
So, I am devising Plan D now...
Quote from: MPlayle on November 20, 2025, 03:49:43 PMDo you have any long handled needle-nose pliers to reach in and try to unscrew it or break it apart to remove it?
Yes I do, and they are plenty long. I tried using them as my first removal effort, but through the small aperture of the sender hole there was not enough room to fully open the jaws enough down at the wire mesh filter. Actually, so those long needle nose pliers are what I used to help strike the wiremesh filter.
My Plan D, as I'm thinking about it, involves a method to secure a hacksaw blade on some type of handle that will go through the sender hole so I can saw through the pick up tube and cut off the end with wire mesh filter. Then I plan to use the needle nose pliers to gently bend the new end of the pick up tube down toward the floor of the tank.
I'm sure a filter on the end of the pick up tube is a real "nice to have" thing, but the reality is there's already a fuel filter just in front of the electric fuel pump on the subframe, and then there is another fuel filter just before the carb. Worst case scenario is some large junk gets picked up in the tank and clogs the filter near the fuel pump.
I take it your hand is too big to go thru the sender hole? (I'm not sure mine would fit either)
I have a set of bent nose long needle nose pliers, not sure if that would work either....are you pushing on the what looks like grey plastic part that the mesh is attached to? It looks like there is an o-ring that is between the grey plastic and the tube itself? I was thinking if you could twist that entire filter assembly on the tube (maybe spray some silicone on the oring, or even WD 40 or the like on the oring first) maybe that would break it loose so it could be worked off. BTW, the mesh is usually plastic, not metal.....your idea of the hack saw blade should work, but I would cut the plastic of the filter, not the tube. I would use a pair of vise grips to hold the hack saw blade, and turn it so the teeth cut on the pull stroke.
You can also buy those filter assy's to replace that one if you destroy it. Google "fuel tank strainer"
There is a lot of schmutz on the bottom of that tank! Once it's all cleaned and sealed that will no longer present a problem, but I wonder where all that came from? Out of the fuel itself?
I have these.... https://www.harborfreight.com/16-in-long-reach-pliers-set-2-piece-64082.html
This might also work for you- https://www.harborfreight.com/15-inch-long-reach-locking-pliers-97609.html
Have you considered one of these? It's called a new tank.
https://www.minispares.com/arp1043ms-petrol-tank-saloon-7-5-gallon-1974-up-to-injection
It's twice the price of a por15 fuel tank kit but with none of the hassle. Potential over billing from DHL should be factored in.
Possible Plan D.2 Would a small Dremel tool on a stick fit through the sender hole?
Possible Plan D.3 A Faucet tool has a flexible self-gripping head to reach up from under a sink to tighten or loosen the nuts around the pipes connected to a faucet set where there is no room to get a wrench in. This particular one telescopes but there are straight-shafted ones too.
Quote from: MiniDave on November 20, 2025, 07:26:46 PMI take it your hand is too big to go thru the sender hole? (I'm not sure mine would fit either)
Dave, the sender unit hole is 1 3/4" wide, just 1/4 inch bigger than the filler neck hole. Nobody's hand can fit through either opening. Even if they could, the pick up tube is a good distance away from the outer tank opening.
QuoteI have a set of bent nose long needle nose pliers, not sure if that would work either....are you pushing on the what looks like grey plastic part that the mesh is attached to? It looks like there is an o-ring that is between the grey plastic and the tube itself? I was thinking if you could twist that entire filter assembly on the tube (maybe spray some silicone on the oring, or even WD 40 or the like on the oring first) maybe that would break it loose so it could be worked off. BTW, the mesh is usually plastic, not metal.....your idea of the hack saw blade should work, but I would cut the plastic of the filter, not the tube. I would use a pair of vise grips to hold the hack saw blade, and turn it so the teeth cut on the pull stroke.
Yeah, i've got some long reach needle nose pliers, too. But the idea of trying to perform any work inside the tank itself is pretty much like building a ship model in a bottle. The filter mesh base has a knurled surface on it so it might even be screw on. However, whatever method used to attach it to the pickup tube is extremely effective.
QuoteYou can also buy those filter assy's to replace that one if you destroy it. Google "fuel tank strainer"
Thanks, but there would be no way to ever install a new one. Plus, I'm developing a good hatred of them.
QuoteThere is a lot of schmutz on the bottom of that tank! Once it's all cleaned and sealed that will no longer present a problem, but I wonder where all that came from? Out of the fuel itself?
This car sat in a garage in northern England unused for something like 15 years. I'm sure that contributed.
QuoteI have these.... https://www.harborfreight.com/16-in-long-reach-pliers-set-2-piece-64082.html
This might also work for you- https://www.harborfreight.com/15-inch-long-reach-locking-pliers-97609.html
Quote from: 94touring on November 21, 2025, 04:25:22 AMHave you considered one of these? It's called a new tank.
https://www.minispares.com/arp1043ms-petrol-tank-saloon-7-5-gallon-1974-up-to-injection
It's twice the price of a por15 fuel tank kit but with none of the hassle. Potential over billing from DHL should be factored in.
Oh man! :cheesy: That definitely cracked me up about it being only double the price of the expensive repair kit. Puts things in perspective.
It sure is tempting to consider. The price is really, really good. But it's the shipping cost and the customs fee hassle that is holding me back. At least for now.
I have not ruled it out.
Quote from: Dan Moffet on November 21, 2025, 04:42:41 AMPossible Plan D.2 Would a small Dremel tool on a stick fit through the sender hole?
Hmmm. I like it. I've got a Dremel flex head cable that would fit the bill...
QuotePossible Plan D.3 A Faucet tool has a flexible self-gripping head to reach up from under a sink to tighten or loosen the nuts around the pipes connected to a faucet set where there is no room to get a wrench in. This particular one telescopes but there are straight-shafted ones too.
Interesting tool. Never knew these existed. The issue remains trying to work with very limited access into the interior of the tank.
You probably don't have a welder either? Because I'd be more likely to drill out the pickup tube and install a new one than fight with trying to get that filter off.
Quote from: 94touring on November 21, 2025, 10:00:55 AMYou probably don't have a welder either? Because I'd be more likely to drill out the pickup tube and install a new one than fight with trying to get that filter off.
No, I don't know how to weld, but believe me the thought occurred to me to cut a hole and gain the delicious access. Or as you said, take a reasoned approach and just remove the filler tube and install a new one.
Success! Or at least semi-Success. Or at least far enough to continue.
I have been able to remove the mesh strainer cage from the end of the pick up tube. Part of the filter apparatus still sits on the end of the pick up tube, but there's no screen material on that, so that shouldn't be a problem. I was also able to use the long needle nose pliers to reposition the pick up tube almost back to where it should be. I plan to lower it a bit after the coating process is completed.
I can see where I poked through the mesh cage with my improvised Roto router, but didn't really do much damage. Also, that mesh (brass?) is super, super fine. Honestly with it being that fine I don't know what purpose the other downstream fuel filters actually accomplish.
I seem to recall that originally there were no downstream filters between the tank and carb until much later in production. The pickup screen would have been the only filter.
I also seem to recall that the most common recommendation is to do as you succeeded in doing - remove the pickup mesh "filter" and leave it off, then put a standard filter in the line somewhere downstream before the carb. Having the pre-filter on the electric pump and another near the carb covers all bases.
Okay. I'm starting by flushing the tank with soapy water. Also allows me to test my plugs.
I purchased a pack of different sized vacuum plug bungs for the tank vent and the pickup tube. They are a pretty good fit but I'm securing them with some duct tape to be sure they stay in place. For the sender unit hole I'm using the old sender unit cover. Perfect fit. Almost like it was made for it. :grin:
For the tank neck I found a PVC plumbing cap at Home Depot and I'm using an Edd China-inspired Orange glove as a gasket.
No leaks!
Force drying the tank isn't so easy. I've tried a corded electric leaf blower on a low speed and also a shop vac configured as a blower. Thirty minutes each and there's still some damp patches inside.
To dry water from it, you could warm the tank from the outside. Hold it over the BBQ or similar cooking appliance. Heat on low.
I'm just going to stick the "blow" end of my shop vac in the filler neck and alternately in the sender hole.
Maybe a hair dryer, Bruce?
Sitting it outside in the sun might help too?
We are actually experiencing cooler wet weather, so just forced air alone will take much longer. The hair dryer or heat gun approach to use heated air will help speed up the drying process.
Set it in your oven when your wife isn't looking.
Quote from: 94touring on November 21, 2025, 03:29:25 PMSet it in your oven when your wife isn't looking.
If I did that I think my WiFi-capable oven would connect itself and then text my wife to tell her!
Update: I completed the tank restoration process today. I spent a lot of time with the cleaner/degreaser to remove all the gum and varnish. I was going to use drywall screws in the tank during this process to help agitate and go after the surface rust. But then I realized the screws are coated with something so I went with regular zinc wood screws. I spent well over an hour rotating the tank and shaking it back-and-forth and trying to get every area addressed.
Then, like shampoo, it's rinse and repeat with the second cleaner/degreaser bottle. Then another rinse.
According to the latest instructions from POR15 it's not necessary to have a completely dry tank before adding the metal prep solution. But I decided this would be a good time to try using a hairdryer as a trial run for later in the process when I definitely need to have completely dry tank. The heat from a hairdryer definitely makes a huge difference (whoodathunkit) and it got the tank completely dry in about 20 to 25 minutes.
I spent a lot of time with the metal prep solution, rolling it all over the inside of the tank, ensuring every area got at least 10 to 15 minutes of coverage with the solution. I believe it's basically just phosphoric acid, but it does etch the metal and attack rust.
When I rinsed the tank after the metal prep it really looked good on the inside with a nice light gray coating over the interior surface.
Using the hairdryer, I made sure it was again completely bone dry, especially in the seam gaps, and I popped the top on the can of POR15 gas tank sealant paint. The instructions indicate must be stirred, and that was definitely necessary as some of the material had settled to the bottom of the can.
Once it was stirred, I poured the quart can into the tank and gently rotated it, and all directions to ensure coverage. I spent about 20 minutes slowly, rotating it to cover all areas. The instructions say to pour the remaining paint back into the can where it will harden overnight, and then open the tank petcock and position the tank so excess can drain out over 30 minutes or so to help prevent a puddle or pooling of the paint. Sure wish the Mini fuel tank had a petcock, because it was not easy to get the excess out of the tank due to the internal design of the filler neck. The filler neck tube extends into the fuel tank and there's a ridge there so it is not a smooth transition from the tank to the filler neck. That ridge kept some paint from draining out of the tank. So I basically continued to rotate the tank around, trying to distribute the excess evenly everywhere.
Nice to have it finally done. The instructions say wait 96 hours before use. I'm going on a trip so when I come back, it should be ready to install.
Okay. It's several hours later and the paint is dry enough for me to take photos of inside the tank. I'm happy with the result.
Looks nice, are you going to test it before you put it back in the car? 96 hours of cure time.....4 days.....will you give it some extra time just in case since it was thick in a couple of places or are you eager to put it back in?
Did the stain in the boot under the tank clean up? What did you use on that, some compound and polish?
Was thinking and I suppose if I didn't have the option to let the paint drain,I'd let the excess pool by the filler neck.
Quote from: MiniDave on November 23, 2025, 08:33:08 AMLooks nice, are you going to test it before you put it back in the car? 96 hours of cure time.....4 days.....will you give it some extra time just in case since it was thick in a couple of places or are you eager to put it back in?
Did the stain in the boot under the tank clean up? What did you use on that, some compound and polish?
No, I'm traveling for a week so it's going to be a while before I reinstall it.
I haven't cleaned up the stain yet. It appears to be gum and varnish from the leaky tank, so perhaps something that is strong enough to break through that without hurting the paint - if I can avoid doing that.
Quote from: 94touring on November 23, 2025, 08:43:32 AMWas thinking and I suppose if I didn't have the option to let the paint drain,I'd let the excess pool by the filler neck.
Hmmmm. Last night after I posted pictures of the tank I found out that POR recommends no paint be thicker than 2 mm. So any paint that pools thicker than that apparently just gets a thick skin on it, but underneath it never really dries and therefore it will fail over time, leading to chunks of it floating in the gas tank and getting elsewhere in the fuel system. (apparently the two complaints about the POR fuel tank system failing are related to 1) improper tank preparation, including not getting it completely dry, and 2) having the paint in a thick pool on a section of the tank. I really made sure I followed all the preparation instructions, but the pool of paint possibility was really bugging me.)
So... this was giving me some doubts last night. I went out to the garage check on the tank. I found a nice puddle of paint in one corner on the bottom of the tank. Fortunately, it was near the sender hole. I poked at it and sure enough it had a nice thick skin on it and it was wet paint underneath. So I spent about 20 minutes using a wood dowel rod to roll up and collect the paint skin in big lumpy chunks and pull them out of the tank, exposing the wet paint underneath. The resulting wet paint was not too thick, so I felt I helped prevent a future failure.
If I had to do this again on another Mini tank, I would seriously consider modifying either the tank neck before starting the process to remove part of that ridge so extra paint could effectively drain out. Or perhaps drilling a hole at the top of the tank so excess paint could drain out when tipped upside down. And of course, I would need to find a way to plug that hole afterwards.
That's kind of what I was thinking is it would be thick, crack, and chunk. Anything by the filler neck if it didn't seal wouldn't really matter. Other than it might clog your fuel line if it fell off in chunks.
Would you have been able to pour the excess out the sender hole versus the filler neck?
I don't recall there being a lip at the sender hole that would pool the paint like the lips of the filler neck.
Quote from: MPlayle on November 23, 2025, 12:48:03 PMWould you have been able to pour the excess out the sender hole versus the filler neck?
I don't recall there being a lip at the sender hole that would pool the paint like the lips of the filler neck.
No. I put masking tape all around that hole in anticipation of pouring the paint out that way. But the problem is the sender hole is in a raised section of the tank when it's positioned on its side. So it's not the low point. And the instructions call for letting the excess drain out for 30 minutes, so no good way to do that.
You really need to get yourself a cheapo flux core mig welder to be able to add in bungs and drains and things for random projects like this.
Quote from: 94touring on November 23, 2025, 03:39:28 PMYou really need to get yourself a cheapo flux core mig welder to be able to add in bungs and drains and things for random projects like this.
Hmmmm. Christmas is coming...
These new inverter welders are inexpensive and work a treat - just be sure to get one with dials on it to adjust the amperage/voltage and wire speed.
My buddy Dave got one that has a couple of digital readouts instead of dials and we could not make heads nor tails out of what the numbers meant! The instructions were in Chinese and of absolutely no help. We even went online and found an English language manual for it, but all it said was that there were readouts, no clue as to what they meant. Not only that but the scales changed as you ran the numbers up/down.
Bottom line, a dial from 1-11 is so much easier to learn on.
My buddy Zac bought one too, his has two dials and is super easy to use.
Don't forget - a good auto darkening helmet and some welding gloves. A chipping hammer to remove the slag and I use a wire brush on my angle grinder to clean up the welds. You can get all this stuff at Harbor Freight....
One like this will do just about anything you need to on a car.... Flux Mig welder (https://www.harborfreight.com/easy-flux-125-amp-welder-57861.html)
You also need this wire (https://www.harborfreight.com/0030-in-e71t-gs-flux-core-welding-wire-2-lb-roll-63496.html)
I have this one and it works great Helmet (https://www.harborfreight.com/blue-design-auto-darkening-welding-helmet-61610.html)
At this price, why not? chipping hammer (https://www.harborfreight.com/weldingchipping-hammer-63773.html?_br_psugg_q=welding+hammer)
and finally.... gloves (https://www.harborfreight.com/welding-gloves-39664.html)
all this adds up to what, $200? Amazing what you can get right now for so little money. I've had my cheapo welder for over 30 years now and it still works just fine, cost $400 in 1990 although I do run gas and not flux core.....makes for a much cleaner weld.
Yeah those auto darkening helmets from HF work well. Toss in gloves and the thinnest flux wire. Downside to flux is it welds hotter, more prone to burn holes on really thin sheet. Pro is it's softer and easier to grind down with your angle grinder or air tool attachments. But anyways, this tank project I'd have drilled out that PITA pipe with filter and welded in a new, saving myself a day or however long it took to do. And added the drain for the paint...though I might have pressurized the tank and used soapy water to find the leak and just welded that area solid.