And I plan to run a Calver head at 10:1 in the future, but right now I need to buy a set of studs for the stock engine. I pulled the head, found some sutds were not that tight, and some frozen nuts, and I cant trust to reuse what I have on hand. So a set of studs, but whats so important about the shaved head studs vs. regular? Is it just valve cover interference? If so, what cover will clear the thing when running a shaved head on normal length studs? (cant be that much difference)
They must be talking about guys running 13:1 or something crazy racey.
I don't know why std studs won't work, even with a head that's been cut.
I have lots of good used studs if you want some, or buy the ones from MIniSpares - https://www.minispares.com/product/Classic/Engine/Cylinder_heads/Studs_bolts_nuts/C-AHT280.aspx?100409&ReturnUrl=/search/classic/studs.aspx|Back%20to%20search
You don't want to run the studs intot he block really tight, just past snug is the metric I use, but I use blue locktite on them so they don't back out. Of course, if they're torqued properly they shouldn't get loose anyway, but I have seen it happen