Started the restore on this 50 chev. It's an older restoration that was done good mechanically but poorly on the paint and body. It has an independent disk brake front end, power steering, power brakes, 12 bolt rear, small block Chevy power, th350 auto trans.
Mechanically not much will be changed other than the transmission to a 700r4 overdrive unit so we can lower the cruise rpm a bit.
Body is in good shape needs cab corners and a proper repaint. Having some parts sandblasted now. somebody had the really bad idea of spraying that trunk paint type of stuff on the interior going to be a pita to strip but I don't want to blast the cab.
Wood bed was improperly installed and shot.
They also went overboard with the red paint and painted the steering column and the wheel too? Looks like shit also had the ignition switch in the tilt column will keep the tilt but put the switch back in the dash and clean up the steering column. Will be keeping the red exterior but might go with a silver interior to break things up.
Also planning on power windows and a/c.
Thinking of firemist red for the exterior. comments ideas on color welcome.
Also I don't like the wheels. Top three choices are chrome steel with moon cap, Craiger, or torque thrust?
Undecided at this point.
Quote from: jeff10049 on November 23, 2017, 07:55:29 PM
Thinking of firemist red for the exterior. comments ideas on color welcome.
Cool project! I've got a real fondness for these post WWII Chevy trucks. When I was about 10 years old I often used to ride in the bed of one - back when that was perfectly normal to do so.
As for color, lately I have really started liking the sand paint color appearing on new Toyotas and Jeep. This is sort of the color.
(https://i.pinimg.com/originals/0e/39/53/0e3953ec0105a0a0f530d50ea9283879.jpg)
This is the Jeep version of the color. I don't know why, but I just really like it.
(https://gearheads.org/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/2013-Jeep-Wrangler.jpg)
I tend to like the "sand" colors as well. Many years ago, I barely missed the chance to own an early "Cooperized" Mini in Sandy-Beige with a Snowberry white roof. Still one of my favorite color combinations.
That sand color is not bad a little plain for us I think or maybe we're just used to seeing the truck in red all these years.
I do like how the black running boards break it up some. The red that was on it looked good before it faded out.
The firemist we are leaning towards looks alot like the picture below and how the truck looked before the cheap paint failed.
I think the black running boards would look good with the red.
Like the idea of the steel wheels painted body color and then the stock chevy center caps.
Just found this factory color option called cape maroon it's on the list of choices for sure.
Even though the truck is not stock I like that it is a stock color choice shown below also has the wheel center cap combo.
That's a great color on that truck. Reminds me of a Mini Mk I color that's similar called "Maroon B".
Maroon B
Quote from: jeff10049 on November 23, 2017, 08:05:05 PM
Also I don't like the wheels. Top three choices are chrome steel with moon cap, Craiger, or torque thrust?
Undecided at this point.
Artillery whells may look good. My brother's 32 ford pickup looks good with them.
I like the dark red with black running boards that you're considering, but with classic Crager SS 5-spoke wheels where the rims and centers are painted body color - with only the spokes, center caps and nuts left in chrome.
That 32 ford looks like it might just have a wee bit of power on tap 4.gif
Yeah 354 hemi with 6 strombergs. He lives on a dirt road.
Got some stripper and spent a day removing the zolatone crap from the interior and door jambs also stripped the dash.
Hand sanded all the stripped areas the next weekend and sandblasted any rust areas have a chepo harbor freight blaster works ok.
Primed all the bare steel then started block sanding the rest of the cab almost ready for the first high build primer.
Had to weld in every single trim screw hole in the interior because some idiot used giant flat blade furniture screws to hold in the trim and oversized the holes.
etch primer
installed new cab corners this weekend.
Since the last post a lot has happened on this one the existing paint on the cab was blocked with 36 grit to start getting it straight. Then body filler is done and a quick 80 grit block over it all so the primer would not have to fill 36.
Then primed with 3 good coats of high build primer blocked again in 220.
A few spots needed more filler and now its primed with another 3 coats of high build hopefully the last primer going to start 320 sanding soon.
Also welded up all extra holes in the firewall and smoothed it out a little.
After 220 grit blocking and re prime pictures.
Made a big change on color choice going with a caddy color from 1963 called benton blue.
A friend gave me a way cool old school under dash a/c unit all metal even the vents and all the litttle air deflectors in side them are metal.
I cleaned it up and painted it the benton blue.
Same friend happens to have a 63 caddy we just painted benton blue and decided it would be a great color for the truck.
Can't wait to see how it turns out.
I think we found the wheels they remind me of an old halibrand style. And thats what was looking for when these came up much more affordable.
What does 5X4.75 mean?
Dave,
My guess would be the bolt pattern: 5 holes on 4.75" centers?
oh, of course....... :-[
bolt pattern 5 lug 4.75 lug spacing.
many hours of block sanding and the cab is painted inside and out.
Also got the frame cleaned up and painted.
I will start a post about the clear gun I just got and used to spray this it's amazing and worth twice what it cost in the time I will save sanding and buffing.
Looking good! The color looks great.
Clear gun...tell us more
Getting a lot done on this I thought the engine was ok but some one used more silcone than I can even explain and the extra got in the oil pickup and starved the bearings it also had some low compression pistons so I went through the engine. New rod and main bearings, flat top pistons, comp 260 cam, air gap intake, mallory hei, holley street avenger carb.
Picked up some cool valve covers got the engine in started mounting the a/c compressor, got a new heater core and redid the heater box, started getting the steering hooked up. A/c is gonna be tight but I dont want those stupid brackets everone makes for the car building tv show retards that hang the A/C over the valve cover and the alt over the other valve cover they look like shit.
found a 700r4 overdrive automatic on facebook for a great deal got a kit and went through it it is now installed. Started putting in the new wiring harness,installed a classic auto sound radio, had to notch an inner fender for the a/c did that and got them painted.
Have been woking on the bed and rear fenders for a while got those painted today ended up just getting a new tailgate, front bed panel, and rear crosssill they were shot.
Coming along nicely. I do love that color.
I have spent at least one day each weekend on this its nearing the end.
Got the bed assembled on installed went with a nice grass for the load floor a CNC router made quick work of it.
Got the nose and doors painted and all 9 million bolts holding the nose on. Rebuilt the window regulators and painted all the glass trim and small parts. New weather strip everywhere. A/C condenser lines and drier installed.
OK, a couple of questions - I take it the pins are a press fit to the rods? But I was always told NOT to heat the end of the rod to put the pin in - although I know a lot of shops that do it that way. I press the ones in the Mini pistons cold...I made a fixture so it wouldn't damage the piston. Do you use Teflon buttons or anything to make sure the pin won't move after it's running?
It must be wonderful to have that much room in your shop - how big is it? Plus I noticed the mezzanine level too! And ton's of light....do you have heat/A/C in there too?
How many spool valves does the 700R have for gosh sakes? And how the heck do you remember where they all go?
Is this going to be a work truck or just for show? I really like the bed floor, but is it made from one panel? Plywood?
Is that a Kubota or a Kyote?
That bed looks absolutely fantastic
Looks like the bed is bamboo?
Dave,
Pins are an interference fit standard procedure is to heat them even for aircraft Sunnen even sells an induction rod heater not sure why you were told not to heat them that is recommended way. With a proper fixture, cold pressing is also fine. Buttons are only used for full floating bushed rods when sprial clips are not used.
Some of the pictures were at the business that's where the mezzanine is in the automotive bay if you remember.. The truck stays home as I don't want to personal stuff to interfere with business Just had some parts there I use the mezzanine as my space. Have Heat at the shop and home no a/c in either but I have a porta cool at the shop we use when/where needed.
I don't know how many valves the 700 has but an ATSG guide is essential when rebuilding go step by step and pay attention automatics are no big deal I take pictures as well. Lay every valve and spring out in order and take a picture just in case.
The truck is a driver for the wife i'll drive it some too. Bed floor is solid bamboo CNC routed from a sheet into individual boards.
Koyoti tractor I did a shit ton of research and they are the better value better all around really I demo both and it was koyoti hands down It was less money but I would have still chosen it even if it cost more.
well that 700r4 transmission just about kicked my arse.
I thought I had a late 1-2 shift and couldn't figure it out until I realized I actually had a 1-3 shift no 2nd at all.
More experienced builders told me it can't be a band apply problem if it has 4th because 2nd and 4th both use the band.
So after looking for a problem elsewhere and reading and looking some more and pulling the valve body checking all the valves for sticking, I decided to check the band apply servo well it has 2 pistons on a common pin to apply the band and I somehow left a seal off the 2nd apply piston :-[
It was in the leftovers from the kit...I installed the seal, reinstalled the valve body filled up the fluid and it works absolutely perfect the transgo shift kit is great almost like it knows what your thinking when it shifts.
At least I didn't have to pull the entire transmission back out.
got my wheels and tires truck is at the interior shop looks like were gonna make it for hot august nights.
Did you add power steering? Otherwise I can't see how your tiny wife is going to drive this! 8.gif 77.gif
The front end is an AMC pacer power disc brakes and power rack and pinion steering...use to be a common conversion for these trucks they line up perfectly to the frame rails and bolt right in. Rear-end is whatever the good Dodge one is 8.5? I don't remember right now but that makes the lug pattern match.
It really drives nice and stops very well I added an adjustable valve to the rear brakes so they won't lock up prematurely.
We put about 1000 miles on finished the last details the night before leaving for reno. Hot August nights was badass.
the drive across the desolate desert was great our friends came along in their 1970 Cadillac I thought for a minute a pissed bull in a cattle drive we stopped for was going after the caddy but they rounded it up.
Our pickup cruised at 70 MPH A/C was ice cold and we got 18 MPG. Zero problems with either car.
My 3 favorite cars that i saw this lincon with a had built v12 and this merc. Also really liked this 50 chevy.