I am just venting, but sometimes we make the mistake of replacing parts because some how new is better. Unfortunately with the reproductions being made that may not be the case.
We redid our wagon, even though it did not need the full extent of restoration that we went to. The steering rack had been used by us for 10 years and who knows how much longer before that, so it needed replacing.
New rack with only 2000 miles on it now and it does this:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4tUgV_ztzI5OTB5VTUxU3lHMTA (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4tUgV_ztzI5OTB5VTUxU3lHMTA)
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4tUgV_ztzI5Q0h3cXM3eWFqQ1k (https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4tUgV_ztzI5Q0h3cXM3eWFqQ1k)
The car did sit for a year with the subframes and rack installed while other components were worked on and the rubber bits fell apart, but I cannot believe it is worn out at this point.
And replacing them is no easy task with the engine and subframe in.
Yes, I have read the manuals and read the stories, but I am wondering how much I have to remove to get the drop.
This is a Specialist Components fuel injection fitted car(which is still not running to my satisfaction) and the clearance is tight, so I am assuming the manifolds will need to be removed.
I also installed a new disc brake it with hubs and i think the bearings need attention, so I should probably put Timkens in as the the original kit used the cheapest bearings I am sure.
I did it last year and it sucked. The problem is getting the u bolts back in.
One trick for the u bolts is to fit them from the inside first, then adjust till they fit there before install underneath.
Fun times
With the MPi engine in the classic body, there were a few more pieces to undo. The main problem was getting it to drop straight. Hopefully the radiator survives.
I had a fellow club member whose wheel did that, turns out the pinch bolt was loose......
Never mind, second video cleared that up......
That is a lot of play for a 2000 mile part, are you going to take it apart and see what went bad?
Yes, I will at some point.
Right now I am pissed and tired. Getting the old one was not too bad.
But now I have dropped the subframe more than 6 inches and there is still not enough room to get the bolts back in.
Maybe I need to raise it back up so the formed corner of the subframe is at just the right spot.
try again tomorrow...
Sometimes you need to just step away, tomorrow it will all just fall into place......hopefully! ::)
Getting those bolts back in is a pita. I found a 2nd pair of hands to help align one stud of the u bolt while I was able to get the other side in. I couldn't have done it any other way in my case.
A new day
Just decided to drop the subframe out of the way?
Yes I dropped it as far as it would go last night, but still on the harbor freight crossbar and actually raised the body another inch or two.
Looks like it should have clearance.
I will let you know in a few hours.
Harbor Freight crossbar?
This thing:
http://www.harborfreight.com/steel-floor-jack-cross-beam-60762.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/steel-floor-jack-cross-beam-60762.html)
With a 25% off coupon, it was pretty cheap and seems to work when working with subframes.
I have one of those cross-bars. It does work well for lifting the whole front or rear at once as it adjusts to get both sides of the subframe at the same time. Easier to locate a cross-bar than a "Dooder block" for the front subframe.
That seems like a good idea.....may have to get one of those.
I thought maybe you had one of those that holds the engine up across the fenders.
Rack in, just needs adjustment and reinstallation of everything else.
It seems the u-bolts only hold their shape for about 5 minutes, if that. After 5, they go back to the vice for another squeeze.
Man. Sorry you're having trouble with the rack. Did you buy it used from somewhere or was it new? I was on the fence about rebuilding mine, but it didn't have any real problems that I could tell, but it was original with a little over 30,000 miles on it. I almost bought a new one but a few guys said they were having issues with it. I'd love to see what you find in the teardown on yours. Was it like that when you first installed it?
Racks were brand new. Part of the reason for replacing was that it was much easier to do with everything apart and I had no idea how long the old one had been in use - maybe 55 years at the time...
I will let everyone know what I find.
The Harbor Freight cross beam could be a couple of inches shorter to get the balance correct on the center of the pads.
Yeah. I'm using the HF cross bar, too. Mine is mounted to one of their extremely low profile steel jacks though. It is actually rated higher and lower profile with more lifting height than my low-pro aluminum one. Go figure. I had to buy it for my pickup, but now I use it for everything.