Disc Brake Rotor Replacement

[tmsmini]

I am doing wheel bearings and ball joints on the front end this weekend.
I think I also have some build up on the rotors(disc thickness variation) and can swap new ones in.
I have heard some pretty interesting voodoo-like maintenance  stories about breaking in(bedding) brakes.
EBC has a whole site for it.
http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/how-to-bed-in-your-new-brakes-for-streeturban-driving-2/

My pads are still good, so my plan is to swap rotors. Anything to do to prep the rotor?
EBC also seem to be big on this service, ProCutLathe:
http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/pro-cut-lathe/

[94touring]

Personally as cheap as pads are I'd buy new.  The old pads are now grooved to match your old rotors.  I imagine that's not great for wearing in new rotors but I could be wrong. 

[MiniDave]

New pads with new rotors for sure......

We have one of those on the car rotor cutters at school, but I can't imagine it being a problem on the tiny rotors we have.....as long as you buy good rotors from a name brand supplier and not Chinese ones.....

EBC puts a coating on the pad surface (looks like 36 grit sandpaper)  designed to cut thru glazed rotor surfaces so the new pads will bed in, it's not really an issue with new rotors.

[John Gervais]

Definately go for new pads as well.  Many of the UK EBC suppliers offer 'discount' kits with pads and rotors, so maybe you can either import from the UK directly, or use it as leverage and negotiate a deal with your preferred supplier. 

(https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/austin/mini)

https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/austin/mini/1275-Cooper-S-1963-1971/1066

I prepared a quick part number guide if you decide to purchase individual components:

[tmsmini]

I have all the parts on hand, so it is not a problem.
It just seems sometimes that I just replace parts for the sake of replacement when the old part is actually still quite serviceable.

[John Gervais]

Me too - but the new parts are always better, even if the same quality.  I like to justify replacing good, serviceable parts (oftentimes barely used, installed and driven about 500 miles per year) by rationalizing that by installing new parts, the assembly is completely renewed. 

A better job done.

[tmsmini]

One side done. Absolutely no movement in the bearing so I reused it and no signs of any degradation. Same with ball joints, just reshimmed.
I will see what the other side is like now.

[John Gervais]

Wow, you're cruising along - you're welcome to pop over and re-assemble mine when your done. 

[tmsmini]

Well I did not finish. It is all back together just needs to be torqued and checked. Pretty sad when can't finish both sides in one day, should be a half day job.
I did take the woodie for a spin on freeway, it needed the exercise. My wife only drives it about 4 miles a day so it needs to stretch its legs on the weekend.
Terry

[tmsmini]

It is nice to have the "disc thickness variation" resolved. I had just assumed it was the rear drums, but after replacing those, the issue was still present.

Pads are not as cheap as they once were and the price difference between 7.5 and 8.4 is about 30 dollars. I try to keep a set of each on hand.

[MiniDave]

I had a similar issue on Buzz, new front rotors cured it once and for all.....Moss has a sale on rotors every once in a while - you might get on their E-mailing list, it can be cheaper than getting them from England at times.