As with 94touring, I myself will be restoring my Pick-up
Pics and Details to come
Cool man can't wait to see it. I saw you ordered those floors.
Yes 94touring I ordered the floors. Looking closer I may need to order the sills as well. There seems to be a nice build up of bondo throughout the sills...filling some nice holes. I made some progress last week. I'll post up some pics. Waiting on you to start on floors so I can follow suit.
Dropped the Subframe out
cool deal man.
Driver side floor rust.
What does everyone think. Where should I put reinforcement bars in the cab If I want to replace an entire side at once? Reason being is that i need to replace the sill metal behind the cross member. I was going to do it in quarters but The cross member isn't really holding on to anything.
Aceslow
I am debating the same thing on mine when I replace each side. I was figuring on just putting something where the x-member goes.
I have to replace the outer sills too. You can see the black patch and then the rusty portion after. They did not replace the entire sill. Only part of it.. It will be tricky to put that whole panel in without removing the cross member. The floor behind the crossmember is in decent shape for me so I dont need to replace all of it. When are you getting going on your floors 94Touring? I need some help.
Not sure when I'll be tackling the floors, still have other random areas I'm working on. Maybe what you should do is replace the outer sills and give yourelf a good foundation for when you cut the floor section out. Since its not cutting out the whole floor I'm less worried about distoration and bracing, though every little bit helps.
My opionion is to brace the door opening, specifically so the body doesn't settle and spread the door opening. If you are leaving the lower part of the door frame, the step piece, and it is in good shape, this will accomplish the same thing.
I left an inch in the floor to lap joint over and I think I am just going to lap joint over the tabs on the cross member(leaving a layer of old floor underneath the cross member) Should still be strong enough I would imagine. They did this on the passenger side of the the truck to repair it. I have replacement outer sills now too so they will be done after the floor is finished.. I'll do the floor in four sections as the back is no where near as bad as the front.
Still contemplating if I want to cut out the whole floor and replace it a full side at a time.If the door step is in good condition do you think I could get away with cutting the lower sill out and replacing the floor and not having any warpage?
Again, just my opinion, but don't leave any of the old floor under the cross member. That is just asking for trouble later.
If yor door step is good it should hold the door opening without having to brace it.
The floor halves come with the inner sill. The inner sill has to go behind the cross member. So you have to trim the sill and somehow make it go around the ends of the cross member and that can get messy to weld. You might consider drilling out the spot welds and removing the cross member. It makes fitting the floor half a lot easier. Consider what you have to do to get the floor in with the cross member in place. You have to push it up in and move it forwarrd enough to get the back side over what is left of the lip on the heel board.
With the floor and crossmember out how do you suggest to support the body of the truck?
Not too much has happened in the past few months. I replaced the driver side floor. It looks ok I think. If I have the funds next year I going to spend the money and buy a full floor replacement
Hey looks good from here. Seam seal any ugly welds you think you have and won't be able to tell the difference.
What is this panel called that I have my finger on? I was trying to find out if I can get a replacement for it..
I started drilling out the spot welds for the heel board replacement(all 43 of them just along the top)
I order another full floor length for the driver side as the back is way worse than I originally thought. As you can also see. it looks like the rear driver side wheel well needs to be patched or replaced...
Inner Sill stiffener.... Found it online. Now to find a decent place to get those panels...
Email David at gbcarparts, i'm sure he can get a good deal on that inner stiffener. You could probably fab something up pretty easily for it too, as its not going to be seen.
I emailed David.. I also emailed somerford mini. 5 panels and the shipping was only 100Bucks from the UK. I know I am going to get stung on the duty but, not too bad..
I would bite the bullet and but a complete floor, extension panel, subframe mount panel, and bed floor risers, and just replace the entire lower section. It will save you hours in patching and have better results.
Nicholas. I would order the whole floor but the shipping on that is absolutely crazy!!!
I already have the full left and right floor as well as the cross member,heel board and outer sills...
With the inner stiffener panels coming and the both wheel wells. I Should be covered..
I guess I am spoiled as I just go into 7ent and buy my panels load them in the truck and go home. (no shipping)
It has been a while since I posted.
Not much progress. Waiting for the huge order from Somerford mini. Should be here mid February.
Good to see full floor halfs! Get it on a rotisier and its really not that bad to cut out the old floor and put those in place. Take your time and mount the subframe when installing the subframe attach panel. Might not even be a horrible idea to mount the subframe to whats there now, leave it in place, cut out the old mount panel and install the new one. I didn't replace the whole panel at once, but only cut out one side at a time and made triple sure it bolted up. I could see how easy it would be to have things off and not be able to bolt the subby after the fact.
I'm going crazy not being able to work on my truck... Somerfordmini will hopefully have my panels to me by the first week of March... They are waiting for one panel to come into stock. I ordered in December. I did order some cool parts from DSN.
That's cool, I'm thinking of going with the same stearing wheel. What part is the holdup?
Inner wing LHD side. They said they had one and when they went ship realized it was the wrong part..
They are waiting for their shipment from heritage which should be there on Monday. So hopefully I see them in the beginning of March.
At least they caught it before shipping the wrong panel.
What steering wheel is that and will it work on a MK-I? What boss kit is required? Where ordered?
I am thinking of replacing the original "bus" steering wheel on my 61 - it is showing cracks and the center push button pops out easily. The set screw area is cracked and doesn't hold it as well as it should.
Thanks,
Michael Playle
94touring - Yeah that is a good thing. It's just holding me up.
MPlayle - SST7008 is the boss part number. SST7037 is the alloy horn replacement (plastic horn push comes standard with the boss. Then you have the option for the wheel. Vinyl,leather and wood.
SST7006 - Vinyl
SST7009 -leather
SST7007 - Wood
All these part numbers are from dsnclassics.co.uk I ordered from them because they have some nice billet made stuff. I ordered on a Tuesday and received it on Friday. I'm sure if you have a supplier closer they will have the same parts.
Thanks! I'll look those up on the DsnClassics site for attempting to cross reference or order. Some of the suppliers I use have various steering wheels, but most are listed as "NOT for Minis with center push horn" such as the MK-I like I have.
ARGHHH. Somerford updated me today. Third week in March for my panels 50.gif. I am getting them to ship what they have so I can get going. GB carparts website says they have the missing part that I need. Hopefully they get back to me today so I can order it.
Mini brakes use a double flare correct? 9.gif
Bummer. I'm having to wait a month for my bed halfs to arrive too.
Quote from: AcesLow on February 29, 2012, 06:52:57 AM
Mini brakes use a double flare correct? 9.gif
Yes, they use a Double/bubble flare
I ordered in December.... Four months for one panel to be made is a little nuts.
Yeah 4 months is a bit excessive. As long as gb has it in stock, might as well go that route.
They do. Shipping is pricey though.
Somerford shipped my order today and credited me for out of stock panel.GB is shipping me the panel Somerfordmini did'nt have.
WIN 4.gif WIN 71.gif
Awesome, now let's see you get some work done!
I'm working on it. I have a question. All my Trunnions are the same size. Was this done on some years and then they upgraded to the bigger trunnion? Or is mine just slapped together with the wrong hardware.
I believe mine are all the stepped style. There is a square stye trunion also, but not sure what the advantages are between the two.
hmmm. my rubber bushing kit they sent me has a set for the rectangle and a set for the stepped.
This doesnt help me when mine are all stepped... Damn need to make another order.
I'll have to double check my box of parts and see if I have both or not. I thought the only difference might be the length of the bolts used.
76 and on had the rectangle trunnions and 76 and prior have the four stepped. The Kit that minispares is for 76 and on. Just need to order the new trunnions i guess
GB panel showed up! tow more nights of work and then I am going to start welding. Ordered some more bits from DSN. One more small order from Mini spares and I should have everything.
94touring. Do your bed sides spot weld to the load bed on the front side of the wheel arch? Reason I ask is I was reading somewhere that there is a rubber strip that goes in there and that is it.
Only rubber strip I'm familiar with runs along the sides of the bed. Could you show me the exact spot you're talking about?
HERE
Ok that's what I thought, so the gap is filled with rubber and from what I could tell on the remaining metal underneath the bastard bed on mine, we'll spot weld on the metal platform along the inner cill in that corner. Are you cutting into that to replace that inner cill support panel?
I'm going to try and avoid cutting the outer portion off to get to that inner sill but I think I will have to.
Panels showed up from somerford today. All was good except they sent me two right hand rear wheel arches instead of a left and a right. Not quite sure where to start yet. But im going to start stripping paint off so I can drill some spot welds out!
Don't be afraid to put an air chisel to work when breaking your spot welds.
As it sits right now, I'm taking my truck to my Dad's shop so I can build a rotisserie or a table for it to bolt to. I'm off from the first of April till the 15th of April. I'm waiting for my replacement panel from Fedex. My order from DSN sand my order from Minispares. Weathers getting warmer. Need this done!
Nice, replacing all the same panels as me!
Look at all those nice fresh panels!!! :-\
Awesome. 4.gif
I have been slowly collecting since November. You should see my parts table! 94touring do you have any pictures of you replacing the inner Wing panels and the inner A panels.
I actually didn't have to replace the inner wing, so you got me there. The inner a panel you will probably find some pics with it clamped in place, but what I did was bolt and clamp the outer to it and fit from there. It can be a little tricky. Use your door to fit in place also in the fitment process to make sure everything clears.
I usually end up just replacing the front half of the inner fenders hiding my weld behind the stiffener so the engine side looks factory.
(http://boot2bonnet.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/Hauth-053-Small.jpg)
(http://boot2bonnet.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/Hauth-060-Small.jpg)
(http://boot2bonnet.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/Hauth-052-Small-e1304382422861.jpg)
I will take some Pictures tonight to show you what I am deal with in there. It's not pretty at all.
Camera charger is pooched.. now pics for right now. I need some reference pics as I am not sure how these panels lay over each other. Inner wing, inner a and the a panel. nothing is fitting and there is some odd ball spots in the repo panel im not sure should be there. bought the metal for braceing the frame today.
Did you find anything useful in the media gallery that helps show the A panels? After I clamp the inner and outter together I use the lip of the A panel that runs along the door frame as a reference. It has to fit up against the door frame perefectly one way or another. Drill ya some tiny holes in the lip if necessary to bold up to the door frame in the process, spot weld it later. The tricky part for me at least at this point is getting the inner A panel to get in posistion along the inside along the kick panel up to the corner scuttle. I had to manipulate it here and there. Just remember the A panels purpose is to hold the door on, it needs to line up for the door to fit properly. Do whatever you need to do in order to get the door on there straight.
Here is some very crappy images. You can see the gap it between the new inner wing and the door jam. That I should be able to fix. it looks like they bent the edge the wrong way and I cant get in there all the way. My real problem is the inner A and closer do not line up where they should. I can seem to get the A wing panel to line up with the Door jam and the inner a panel at the same time. I'm back at work now for 5 days so I won't be able to do anything until then.
I bought my closer panel seperate and threw it in place after things were done. You should probably just cut it apart and do the same. I do believe there will be some gap from the inner a panel to the door jam, but I'm having a hard time seeing it in the pics.
A few more pictures sure would help. Just remember that the MK1/2 heritage inner fenders are just modified mk3+ ones that the factory has modified the dies.
same thing i was running into on my car, witht he heritage panel.
I'll get some better pics then and show you. Those panels were not there to begin with(originally they were but not when I got it) so I have nothing to base it off
Cool 4.gif my truck is on the front page!
Yes. Maybe it will help keep you motivated while you struggle with fitments haha.
Tonight it my last night of work for two weeks. I should get alot done in two weeks
Ahem...don't get so busy working that you forget us over here... 19.gif
Ill be taking lots of pics on the next few days. I just hauled it up north to my dads shop. Hes a welder by trade so he has everything i need
Big update. Ill let the pictures do the talking.
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(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Truck097.jpg)(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Truck098.jpg)
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Be sure to put your front subframe back in before fitting the floor board/ front end.
Sweet! Nice body dolly/holder!
Both floors sides a exhaust tunnel are in. Ill put the subframe back in when im doing the front end. Im pretty sure that the firewall didnt move. The front mounts for the jig are attached to where the subframe mounts so nothing should have moved, but heres to hoping
Wow that's a lot of metal being replaced! I couldn't figure out what I was looking at, at first. 8.gif
x2 on the dolly...sweet.
Progress. heading back up there in 5 days to continue working.
Front inner wings are welded on.
Having issue fitting the inner a panels to get the doors to fit.
Also those magnum door steps are causing me grief.
Anyone have some tips on how to get everything squared up?
What seems to be the problem with the door steps?
Not fitting at all. I patched up the old door sill and reattached it.
Hmm. Mine took a little persuasion but nothing too extreme. The curves on the ends way off or something?
Where are you getting hung up on the inner A panel?
Seems like they are an inch too long and when its in place the strip that spot welds too the floor at bottom of the door opening is nowhere near close. Im not going to use them anymore.
As for the a panels the inner and outer door hinge holes are not lining up at all. I took measurements for the thickness of the A post prior to put the new inner wings on and its within a 16th of an inch of the old measurements.
Yeah odd, mine certainly weren't an inch too long. I'd say maybe about an 1/8th long which after a little pushing and pulling on either panel matched it up perfectly. The bottoms weren't an issue at all along the cill or floor either for me.
Those Apanels take a lot of fudging and manipulation sometimes to get to line up. Wish I could see some pics where it might be causing the hold up. Shoot if you weren't all the way up in Canada I'd fly out and lend a hand.
The lip that the rubber sits on for the door frame is a little tall on those panels, I believe thats what you were talking about. I thought about trimming mine back but I don't believe there will be an issue there. You can see in the curvature coming down from the post how it dips down to about normal and then comes back up along the door frame higher than normal. My take was there was just excess metal during the press of the panel. The edge of the seams have a bit of excess overhang from the press I ran the grinding wheel along after It was all welded into place to shave clean also.
(http://www.restorationmini.com/forum/MGalleryItem.php?id=1084)
Sills are in now and the doors are close. My dad just laughs and tells how 55 chev panels are twice as thick as this tinfoi haha.
After 6 hours of taking the A panels off and on again. I finally have the passenger side door mounted. I still get a bit of droop in the door as the panel flexes a bit. i am thinking the flex will disappear(hopefully) when I mount the out wing.
Ihave to say this is the hardest vehicle I have ever had to mount doors on!
Both doors are on. Just need some fine adjustment.
How does the nose panel mount to the subframe?
I ordered some front mounts but they are four a mk 4 did the pickups have anything between the subframe and nose panel?
I'm not entirely sure what the original pressed grill front ends had for mounts. The later models have a spacer/washer type piece that fits between. I was planning on putting some kind of shim between the two just to prevent it from pulling the front end in too much. I'll throw some eye bolts in there when its done and snug things up.
Depending on the year of the car, and which subframe is fitted. Single bolt front subframes use a rubber mounted front panel (teardrop mount) and twin bolt bolts directly to the subframe. Either front panels can be shimmed to fit. I normally mount the front panel to the subframe very loosely then make everything line up. After welding use shims to fill in any gap between the subframe and front panel, don't just suck the front panel into place with the bolts, as you will twist the gaps for the bonnet.
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/f4564622.jpg)
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I am getting close. I hate the A panels, they are the worst thing to mount and I am not using the horrid "weld through" primer anymore.
Nice looking work. Yes A panels, external hinges, and sliding windows are the worse thing ever!
Thanks!
The second photo down is where i had my most trouble. The width of the door frame to the inner wing was difficult to judge. My panels flare outward a slight but even amount on both sides. Not sure if this is normal but I can flex them inwards if they are are supposed to be flush with the doors. I also found that the indents where the inner A panels are supposed to line up to the inner wing were not in the exact spot. But the doors shut they sag a bit but I won't worry about that until its finished.
Awesome, AL! Sounds like its been a tough one...I have trouble picturing how it would be to get everything lined up when you had to replace all that stuff - man...crazy.
Keep it up, though!!
Pat
Heading back up on Friday to hopefully finish up! What do you use for under liner? I have heard of rhino liner , hippo liner and line -x. Anyone know the best one?
I have not picked a color yet either...
I am one of these guys who despises underliner. Hard to remove later on.
So not much to report. Have not had a chance to get up to my dads to continue working on it. Now that summer is basically over Ill be working hard on the mini as soon as I get a chance... Putting a front end on looks a little intimidating I can hide little mess ups if is the floor but the front end is something you will see all the time..
Any particular concerns with the front end? Just remember to throw on the subby to use as an alignment tool.
Start out by making sure your front subframe is square (I have only had one square one to start with). Install the subframe and bonnet with correct gap at the rear. Install fenders starting at the inner rear corner and working you way around scuttle panel, then work down the inner fender line watching the gap line with the bonnet. After you finish clamping the panel into place and are happy do the same to the other side before welding anything. I usually leave the fenders clamped to the front panel and remove like a 1 piece front end. This allows me to spotweld the panels together without having to lay on my back.
(http://boot2bonnet.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Harrison-034-Small.jpg)
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Quote from: Nicholasupton on August 24, 2012, 03:24:13 PM
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This part confuses me...like the two panels aren't going to fit square - the top piece seems like it's at a funky angle which would leave a 1/4" gap when they come together.
Gotta be really hard all over to get the welded seams to look smooth. Once again gaining more respect for people that do it right.
That scuttle corner can be tricky, especially with sub par panels. As Nick mentioned, get the gaps of the bonnet good before welding it up. I made that mistake once.
Practice, practice , practice. In my body repair book it says it take a total of 2 hours to just remove and install one fender, so take you time and don't expect it to snap into place. I use a shrinker stretcher from woodward fab to adjust panels, and often have to run things through a bead roller just to make things come together tightly.
Quote from: Mudhen on August 25, 2012, 05:43:58 AM
Quote from: Nicholasupton on August 24, 2012, 03:24:13 PM
(http://boot2bonnet.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Harrison-012-Small.jpg)
This part confuses me...like the two panels aren't going to fit square - the top piece seems like it's at a funky angle which would leave a 1/4" gap when they come together.
Gotta be really hard all over to get the welded seams to look smooth. Once again gaining more respect for people that do it right.
Thanks for the advice. Heading up tomorrow at noon to do some work for my dad. Hopefully I will get some time to work on the truck while I am there.
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Neglected this week.. I went up there and did some work for my father but no time for the mini. Going back up Tuesday to do some more work. Hopefully get some time on the mini.
Hey those Apanel photos help any? I took a level to 3 of the minis in the shop today to check how much they flare out compared to the side of the car along the cill. All 3 cars flare out a bit.
Yeah they did thanks a lot. I have not had any time to work on my truck. Waiting for Mini-sport to send the last little bits for the subframes to I can continue with building those up. The measurement I think that would help is the distance from the tip of the a panel to the inner wing.
The bottom tip? I've never aligned it using that method, but every little bit can't hurt.
The bottom of the flange that attaches to the wing. In toward the inner wing. I want to see if my horizontal alignment is out.
I came up with 9 inches to the inside of the wing/apanel to the inner wing.
Awesome! That is what I have as a measurement.
4.gif
Nothing new with the body, but my wheels and brakes showed up. Hopefully get some work done on it while I'm on my holidays.
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I bought a bubble brake flare tool kit and starting making front brake lines. The bubble flare doesn't look like the correct flare. Are they a double flare then? I'm doing all the brake lines front and rear.
I'll see if I can take a look at what I have tomorrow. I don't know off the top of my head.
This is what I have...
Hmm not sure...
Is there a closer panel on the pickup on the front of the rear wheel arches by the heel board?
This one is for a saloon
http://www.dsnclassics.co.uk/acatalog/info_2818.html (http://www.dsnclassics.co.uk/acatalog/info_2818.html)
I'm having a hard time making sense of that one to be honest. There is a little square box that sits above the mounting holes though which I ended up fabricating. If you go through my pics you'll see it. I replaced the ends of the mounting panel too and don't recall seeing anything like you're showing there.
Trying to get the front end Lined Up. Not Having Much luck. I Did get the cowl on.
Scuttle looks good. Too bad you're still struggling with the front end. Have you put the subby in place to help align it with the front end panel?
Be sure to fit a windscreen before you paint as the lower edge often needs to be bent for the windscreen to seal.
Front end is on 4.gif.All heritage panels and there was still a lot of trimming and banging to get everything to fit. All the gaps and body lines are good except around the scuttle panel. Just working on the rear now.
Good advice about the wind screen
Good man. The scuttle is definetly a tricky one to get right with the curves. Pics of the seam there?
I'll take some tomorrow. I have a few more days to work on it until I have to go back to work.
My phone is having issues uploading photos. I'm not very happy with the outcome. The more I look at the front end the worse I feel. The bonnet gap is good as well as where nose panel meets the wings. The scuttle gap is okay on one side but not so great on the other. The other issue I have is on the same side as the bad gap. I had a 1/2 inch gap at the bottom of the driver side wing where it meets the A panel.
I had to use a lot of force with the clamps to get it to close. I think where I screwed up was when I mounted the inner A panel.
Continued on with the body work. Now I'm dealing with this..
I left in the factory inner wings and had to do some massive clamping on the rh side where the wing meets the front end. The very bottom corner had to be welded a little extra to compensate for the gap/force it took to get it together. Maybe its a pickup thing?
What are we looking at in the bed/wheel arch pic? Gaps seem ok from what I can tell. You'll need to seam seal same as I did also.
Does any have a measurement for center to center on the rear wheel arches shock absorber holes
Across the whole rear, left to right? I can measure mine for you when I get back home in a couple weeks.
Wow its been a while since I have been on here. I have made a little progress on my truck. Too busy with work and little one to actually working on it. Away here is a few quick pictures of whats been happening over the past year.
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/4581523B-16E7-4A93-9066-C3884CB0EB08-16578-00001D20A4F4F175.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/4581523B-16E7-4A93-9066-C3884CB0EB08-16578-00001D20A4F4F175.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/F03AF67A-AF6C-4173-9143-68BDF1439167-16578-00001D20AFE3B60F.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/F03AF67A-AF6C-4173-9143-68BDF1439167-16578-00001D20AFE3B60F.jpg.html)
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(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/20131018_090617_zpsd3e88a8e.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/20131018_090617_zpsd3e88a8e.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/IMG_20131017_140032_zps84baaece.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/IMG_20131017_140032_zps84baaece.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/IMG_20140507_155452_zpsaczqldcv.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/IMG_20140507_155452_zpsaczqldcv.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/IMG_20140620_041955_zps9l7edubq.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/IMG_20140620_041955_zps9l7edubq.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/20140703_102530_zps7lhmreso.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/20140703_102530_zps7lhmreso.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/IMG_20140704_154151_zpsw9ylb1nv.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/IMG_20140704_154151_zpsw9ylb1nv.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/IMG_20140704_154217_zpshj2thm3i.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/IMG_20140704_154217_zpshj2thm3i.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/IMG_20140714_142719_zpswwnkv1l6.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/IMG_20140714_142719_zpswwnkv1l6.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/IMG_20140807_100303_zps6zlkg3iy.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/IMG_20140807_100303_zps6zlkg3iy.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/IMG_20140807_113733_zpsv4dks993.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/IMG_20140807_113733_zpsv4dks993.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/IMG_20140807_165339_zpsfbkwc8lz.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/IMG_20140807_165339_zpsfbkwc8lz.jpg.html)
I really like your tooling for aligning the butt welds.
They are okay. I ground them down so the gap is a lot tighter.
Quote from: tsumini on August 13, 2014, 08:55:28 AM
I really like your tooling for aligning the butt welds.
Yes those are cool where can one buy them?
Nice work by the way.
Jeff
Harbor Freight
http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-butt-welding-clamps-60545.html (http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-butt-welding-clamps-60545.html)
Did every External hinged mini have three layers where the inner/outer a panels and the wing meet up? I'm having a hard time fitting the spot welded seam cover now.... Last guys that fixed the mini had and outer a panel and some L brackets to stiffen it up. No inner.
The very early apparently only had 1 a panel making 2 layers, otherwise you have inner/outter/wing creating a 3 layer lip.
Good to know. I've seen alot of photos and can only see two layers. Finally heading to shop this week for a few days. I want this pickup to come home with me this time
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/20141016_120242_zpsp0x4kx6z.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141016_120242_zpsp0x4kx6z.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141016_120330_zpsq70izevc.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141016_120330_zpsq70izevc.jpg.html)
Nice work what engine is going in?
Jeff
5PW Yamaha R1 engine
Jeez, don't make us wait, show us what's been going on!
I have a friend who used to live in Airdrie, he's in Lethbridge now but a car nut like the rest of us.
How are you going to handle a reverse gear?
Mini Dave. There is a cable selected reverse gear. Its a box that is on the driven line.
Pro-Motive R1 Reverse Gearbox: https://youtu.be/_-kB9nLApYw (https://youtu.be/_-kB9nLApYw)
More body work for now. (http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/IMG_20150317_195443_zpsb37cukk2.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/IMG_20150317_195443_zpsb37cukk2.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150409_160942_zpswqyalorx.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150409_160942_zpswqyalorx.jpg.html)
Put these together today.. Also finished up the trailing arms.
Had to buy the washer for the hub nuts as my truck never had them...
Dear lord, I just did some reading up on the R1 conversion and it sounds amazing.
Awesome job so far.
Beat the crap out my bed today Trying to straighten it out
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/20150423_172228_zpsghvjtdpg.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150423_172228_zpsghvjtdpg.jpg.html)
Floor is pretty damn straight now. Rear subframe mounting panel is twisted about 1/4 out of sqaure so now my bed floor cross member doesnt fit...
It's always sumthin, isn't it?
Great to see you still plugging away on this and making such great progress!
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150505_203014_zpsu1rjdexh.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150505_203014_zpsu1rjdexh.jpg.html)
Switch Plate is all wired up. Instrument cluster and gauges are aswell. waiting to get back to the shop and finish up the body work.... going on 6 years now...
Anyone know how to polish up Carbon Fiber?
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150518_001048_zpscjsvgfhg.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150518_001048_zpscjsvgfhg.jpg.html)
Cool looking switch plate
Quote from: AcesLow on May 18, 2015, 04:59:40 AM
Switch Plate is all wired up. Instrument cluster and gauges are aswell. waiting to get back to the shop and finish up the body work.... going on 6 years now...
Anyone know how to polish up Carbon Fiber?
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150518_001048_zpscjsvgfhg.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150518_001048_zpscjsvgfhg.jpg.html)
Buff it with light/medium cut automotive buffing compound I like a foam pad, You can sand with 2000 first if needed pretty much just like buffing paint.
Jeff
Finally some real progress!! Door gaps are okay. Needs a bit of adjustment.
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150604_173800_zpsao3li1rf.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150604_173800_zpsao3li1rf.jpg.html)
Well. 50.gif passenger isnt fitting well.. even bracing it it moved.... i hate body work... Time for a Jack and Coke
How so?
I've never seen a Mini with really good fitting doors, close panel gaps or even seams - remember, these were cheap throw away cars made in the height of the British labor troubles.....these were not made with Lexus-like attention to details. If they ran and the doors opened and closed....good enough! ;D
Most Mini's I've seen - even ones that have had huge attention paid to the door fitment - still don't fit well after the door seal is installed.... so don't be too hard on yourself, you're not working with precision equipment here.....
That's true. Mine usually fit good to great prior to the door seals then fit good to ok. I've spent whole days shimming and adjusting a pair of doors and occasionally bending door seams to adjust the rubber seals.
I agree its not precision equipment. I had to open up the hinge hole 1/8 and now the doors fit. What is an exceptable gap around the outside of the door?
Basically what doesn't rub and looks decent. They all vary from barely not touching to pushing quarter inch gaps.
Clamp Tac Clamp Tac...
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150719_130652_zpsa5iny9q0.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150719_130652_zpsa5iny9q0.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/20150719_175223_zpslwhdfddy.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150719_175223_zpslwhdfddy.jpg.html)
I cut the flange off the box panel. Fixed my door gaps.. Fully weld it and radius it and it should look okay.
That will do it!
In my mind its not right. But it works...
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/20150720_154119_zpslkhqttej.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150720_154119_zpslkhqttej.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/20150720_134801_zpsvmletkdj.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150720_134801_zpsvmletkdj.jpg.html)
Progress! 4.gif
How long have you been working on it?
And what are those holes above the rear window for?
I thin the holes are for a factory cover of sorts.
I can't wait till the day comes for me to fuss over door gaps for hours and hours.
The holes above the window are where brackets bolt that would hold a bed cover.
Is that as far down as the tailgates came?? Been so long since mine was attached.
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/20151112_110105_zpsld4seulz.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151112_110105_zpsld4seulz.jpg.html)
My buddy's lays pretty much flat, with a slight upward angle - but it seems much less than that....
Im exactly 7 inches from the bed floor to the center of the first hinge mounting hole on the tail light assembly... can anyone measure their pickup? 94touring???
I'll have my hands on mine this weekend and try to remember to get a measurement.
I've got 7 inches too. Gigitty.
Hahaha. New tailgate struts maybe. How far does yours (tailgate) "hang" down? Is it level with the box?
Ha. I don't have my tailgate hooked up so that I don't know.
OH MY! your's isn't hooked up where do you keep it in between uses? I think I heard a song about this once.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=byDiILrNbM4
Oh wait, I see now were talking about tailgate's never mind.
Quote from: jeff10049 on November 18, 2015, 08:19:50 PM
OH MY! your's isn't hooked up where do you keep it in between uses? I think I heard a song about this once.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=byDiILrNbM4
Oh wait, I see now were talking about tailgate's never mind.
:D
I only got through part of that video...unfortunately, I can't now unsee it. :(
I don't have my PUP anymore....but I do know it lay flat...perhaps a very VERY slight incline, but not noticeable.
The pictured one is definately not sitting right.
Here's a pic of someone's pickup...don't know who, showing the tailgate lowered.
Could the support bars be reversed (left to right)? It looks almost as if the mount plates are different heights and the ones on the bed upright panels are taller - recessing deeper into the bed. That would pull up the tailgate ends creating the angle.
Ill check that out. I didnt label them so they could be reversed.
I have my truck back at the house with me if you need any pics let me know I will be happy to snap a few and post them up.
Please do !
I don't think you can put the struts on backwards without them being upside down but maybe.
I got to check out a pickup this last week and his tail gate sat up as much as yours just the build quality on some of them I think. That said I would have to modify it to sit lower.
BTW Looking good I have had to do the same to door gaps I think I ground down the door edge on one of mine and re welded.
Jeff
Start Spin 180 To get Flip 180 To get final
with on this this for on this position on
this axis swapping axis other side with
on one sides mounts in right
side positions
|
\ \ / / \
0 0 0 -- 0 -- 0
\ \ / / \
|
Hopefully, the above stick diagram helps visualize what might work. It should keep the hinge point of the braces still pointing down for a right-to-left swap. If the height of the mounts on each end of a brace are the same, it won't matter. Just if the one mounted on the vertical is taller would swapping let the tailgate drop a bit further.
Some pics... sorry took so.long.
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20151213_093910_zps5ilzmsft.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20151213_093910_zps5ilzmsft.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20151213_093922_zpsu70kz6yv.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20151213_093922_zpsu70kz6yv.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20151213_093820_zpsvfpbd68z.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20151213_093820_zpsvfpbd68z.jpg.html)
(http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y219/Jims5543/20151213_093812_zpsajgntv2b.jpg) (http://s6.photobucket.com/user/Jims5543/media/20151213_093812_zpsajgntv2b.jpg.html)
Your bracket seems to be alot lower. Ill try the new ones when i have time. Im scared the box floor dropped a bit while I was putting the box sides on..
Thanks for the help and the pictures!!!
Let me know if you need some more accurate measurements, it is kind of hard to tell what the actual dimension is.
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_150827_zpsotlktnpw.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_150827_zpsotlktnpw.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_142718_zps7j4qq9h5.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20160129_142718_zps7j4qq9h5.jpg.html)
How many miles of welding wire have you gone thru so far? ;D
It's really coming along now...... 77.gif
I see the factory instrument cluster opening through the firewall being blanked off and a radiator grill/outlet being added to the right inner wing, but I do not understand why.
I may have lost track, is the truck getting an alternate power source that needs the cooling repositioned?
I asked a while back.
5PW Yamaha R1 engine was the response
Jeff
I guess the text didnt post with the photos. Added the cooling on the right hand side as the rad switches sides with the promotive kit. I am shaving as much of the firewall as possible to give it that clean look.
The problem I have with putting a bike engine in a car is it seems they run about 5K rpm when you're doing 30 mph, because the HP is all above 5 grand.....so you're always wound up.
Gearing should help with that I would think. We will see. Hopefully i dont get it all together and hate it.. its only been a 5 year resto...
Can a pickup owner please snap a picture of the opening for the tail gate and measure the opening. I think my tailgate is bowed and that has now caused me to set the box side width with a damaged tailgate. Just want to see if I am out or not.
Am I being a perfectionist? I am thinking to order new box sides and try fitting them again. They seem to be tilted tail down slightly which is causing a tight door gap at the bottom and where they meet the B pillar there is a 3/16 gap. As well as the mentioned above with the tail gate.
"Am I being a perfectionist?"
Absolutely nothing wrong with wanting to get it perfect.
I'm sorry I can't help you with a measurement.....but the fitment of my tailgate bugged the hell out of me. To me it sticks out like a sore thumb if it's not correct, as the pic of mine shows
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y183/Mayjer/IMG_1057.jpg) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/Mayjer/media/IMG_1057.jpg.html)
My buddy Don's is the opposite, wide at the bottom.....we tried to widen it our a bit with a porta power, didn't move a lick so we gave up.
Mine is far from square as well. My tops are too tight and needs work. I chalk it up to minis being cheaply built.
I had to modify these brackets a fair bit. Which is why I am wondering what the opening width is. I'm scared if I wanted to go get a new tailgate that all the body work I've done makes the tail too narrow and Ill have to cut it all apart to fit a new tail gate.
(http://www.somerfordmini.co.uk/eshop/images/14A7740.jpg)
Builds been quiet for some time. The truck is home now and I can work it alot more. Hopefully make some headway inthe next few weeks and have some updates for you all.
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/20160825_152208_zpsmw83jxhc.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160825_152208_zpsmw83jxhc.jpg.html)
I can't believe how much room you have to work!
Glad to see you're still on it.... 4.gif
Quote from: AcesLow on February 25, 2016, 09:50:26 PM
Can a pickup owner please snap a picture of the opening for the tail gate and measure the opening. I think my tailgate is bowed and that has now caused me to set the box side width with a damaged tailgate. Just want to see if I am out or not.
Am I being a perfectionist? I am thinking to order new box sides and try fitting them again. They seem to be tilted tail down slightly which is causing a tight door gap at the bottom and where they meet the B pillar there is a 3/16 gap. As well as the mentioned above with the tail gate.
PM me if you ever need anything. I completely missed this, if you still want numbers I can do it this evening. I think mine is pretty straight. I I am going to be out there this evening. Do you have the tail gate? Why not measure that ?
Hey Jims5543,
That would be great if you could. I fear my tailgate is bowed. I have nothing to compare it to. I modified the plates that go on the top of the tail light panels a lot to get everything to fit.
Thanks.
Quote from: AcesLow on September 09, 2016, 02:05:03 AM
Hey Jims5543,
That would be great if you could. I fear my tailgate is bowed. I have nothing to compare it to. I modified the plates that go on the top of the tail light panels a lot to get everything to fit.
Thanks.
Pics and measurements this weekend for you sir. No promises my truck is straight either. IIRC when the vinyl cover was being made the guy told me the bed was out of square by a decent amount. LOL!! I will measure it up regardless.
I measure across the top and at the bottom both read 40" almost exactly if I was to split hairs it would be 40 1/16" top and bottom.
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161026_235618_zpsbkd2hf6p.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20161026_235618_zpsbkd2hf6p.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/20161017_005326_zpsbdplvyzm.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20161017_005326_zpsbdplvyzm.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/20160830_211006_zpsqekonwro.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160830_211006_zpsqekonwro.jpg.html)
The pickup is looking sharp. Are you keeping the blue ?
I am having some serious wet dreams about that shifter right now. I can just imagine banging through those gears right now.
Merlin. I do that every day...
Stan360. I want a period corect 70s color. Not sure what that color is yet. Nothing on the outside will be out of the ordinary. I want it looking stock until I turn the key over.
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/20170209_224812_zpsokk5yt4w.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170209_224812_zpsokk5yt4w.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/20170209_223918_zps4qdqvef3.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170209_223918_zps4qdqvef3.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/20170209_223931_zpsfjw6rwjd.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170209_223931_zpsfjw6rwjd.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/20170209_223956_zpsyjr0rgvc.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170209_223956_zpsyjr0rgvc.jpg.html)
Holy panel gaps, Batman!
Fit the front end to the wings off the car, clamp, or just go ahead and spot weld. Then fit on the car and with brute force get it snug to the scuttle and A panels. Helpers or sheet metal screws to aid in holding it in place. I screw all my front ends on first, then weld. Your fitment really isn't as bad as it looks. It will easily go into place. The bottom of the a panels can be tricky, and I prefer to not have those fully welded till I know the rest matches up. If it's way out on the bottom I can modify the a panel where the lip attaches to the door frame as necessary. Or if it's attached I could always slice a section by the seams and weld in an extension.
I cut one off as the bonnet gaps were not very good. I dont know if I messed up mounting the a panels or what. The other wing panel was stretched into place which messed up the scuttle and bonnet gap. I read somewhere that you need to mod the inner wing panels for mk2s as they are made for mk3 and up.. Anyone know what was supposed to be modified?
Bonnet gaps too wide? Simply take a sheet metal screw and go from the wing gutter to the inner wing lip and cinch it up. The trick is pulling it towards the scuttle at the same time. A vice grip pulling the wing to the a panel while screwing the wings toward the inner wing lip usually works.
When I welded the front on the first time, using the clamps on to make the wing meet the A panel made the scuttle gap bad. It pulled the wing out and made the gap between the bonnet and the wing wider.. What would cause that big of a gap between the A panel and wing? I'm scared my inner wing panel to the door pillar width is incorrect. I'm going to work on it some tonight and see if I can get anywhere with it.
9.gif
It's tricky. Any time you move one spot it shifts the next. That's why I'm a big fan of sheet metal screws to cinch it all up. Are these heritage panels or knockoffs? If I encounter a problem it's always bottom of A panel to bottom of wing. That gap can be too much to vise together. Then it becomes a matter of tweaking the apanel to the door frame, either by shaving door frame lip or bending out a panel lip to buy myself length to join up the a panel to wing. In an extreme case the a panel to door gap becomes too wide and looks bad, and I weld in a small strip on the a panel to rid the gap.
They are heritage panels. Spent alot of extra money for the nicer panels. 50.gif Not a fan of bodywork..
Me either.....I did a ton of it on my Jag when I did the rustoration......now I let Dan do it.
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/20170212_205113_zpsef3re7wv.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170212_205113_zpsef3re7wv.jpg.html)
Driver side is the same. So at least im consistent lol..
The front panel is welded on already.Should I drill the welds out and assemble the front end off the truck. Will that make this easier...
Yes drill out the welds on the front end panel. Then I'd suggest at least tacking the wings to the front end panel to have one complete unit properly fitted to then proceed to the next challenge of getting scuttle and A panel fitments. Next fit your subframe and initially lightly bolt the front end to the eye bolt holes. Now begin pushing and pulling and man handling things till it fits. You may find tightening the bolts on the front end help or hurt, but it gives you a variable to play with. Use the screw trick to keep things held in place as you achieve best fitments. That wing to a panel gap is close enough that you can definitely get this fitted perfectly.
Thanks 94touring! Ill post some progress picture tommorow.
Front end is still not on. I have been trying to get some smaller jobs done.
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/20170511_233514_zpsnz4qpfjh.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170511_233514_zpsnz4qpfjh.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170511_234510_964_zpsaindgvft.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170511_234510_964_zpsaindgvft.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/20170513_173231_zpsdbpzhs94.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170513_173231_zpsdbpzhs94.jpg.html)
Almost done. Little clean up still needed.
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170515_200838_910_zpsxgparrc2.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20170515_200838_910_zpsxgparrc2.jpg.html)
Billet aircraft eyeball vents
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/20170429_111046_zpswx2wspse.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170429_111046_zpswx2wspse.jpg.html)
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/20170518_002915_zpslthhbcmx.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170518_002915_zpslthhbcmx.jpg.html)
I am 50.gif as I had an idea on what I wanted to do with the doors. The bottoms of the pockets are thrashed. I cut one off to repair it. I like the flat inner door style of the mk3/mk4 minis. I am stuck at a crossroads now to either repair the door pocket and reinstall it or build a inner structure and then sheet the door with a piece of carbon fiber to match the dash. Ideas or thoughts?
Off for the next week and would like to get a move on this. Buddy wants it to be at his wedding in September so I am shooting for then to have it running (not painted). Subframes are read to go in after the body work is complete... 20.gif
(http://i1229.photobucket.com/albums/ee479/ACESLOW/Mobile%20Uploads/20170429_003917_zpslitpwcn4.jpg) (http://s1229.photobucket.com/user/ACESLOW/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20170429_003917_zpslitpwcn4.jpg.html)
I did remove the front panel and modded it a bit. Removed the front plate mount and tucked some angled brackets up that will be hidden behind the bumper for structure.
Inner wings were stamped 1/4 inch different. I reshaped the drip rail and everything lines up alot better.
I've read where others have complained lately about the quality of Heritage panels....seems to be hit or miss.
I like those eyeball vents, where did you get those?
Heritage can be every bit as tricky as knockoff.
(https://i.imgur.com/rSj56eOl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WwQr5PXl.jpg)
Oh that's nice. I did two half sections to cut some cost but nothing beats one big load floor.
I would have done it that way but they do not make the half floors anymore. This is going to be a big task but the pay off is huge.
With the rear quarter panels in place the complete load floor may be a real task.
Agreed. I may just bend the lip flat and slide it under the back of the cab. Then reshape it afterword. Heelboard foward isnt too bad. Might cut it off there. Havent looked at it too much yet.
Well I had to chop it the full floor in half.
Does this flange get welded inbetween the truck side and rear valance?
I looked in this thread to find a pic of the engine.
Wow!! You paid FUbuckets ransom?
Did they lower the price or is it still insane?
They lost me forever for that stunt.
nice work so far
going to be a awesome pickup when done