Winter work

[MiniDave]

Yes, but I've also not been able to get the shock out without getting the top loose first, so it can drop down below the subframe crossmember. it might be possible to get the rubber cone out by cutting the long tube, but on the battery box side it could be a challenge.....dunno, haven't tried it.

[Mudhen]

Yes, but I've also not been able to get the shock out without getting the top loose first, so it can drop down below the subframe crossmember. it might be possible to get the rubber cone out by cutting the long tube, but on the battery box side it could be a challenge.....dunno, haven't tried it.

Oooo...I like that.  The cones are so bad I can *almost* pull them out without dropping the swingarm down - will take a look, thx!

[Mudhen]

10 minutes work and Bob's your uncle...boom!  Both old cones out!   

But there's no way the new ones are going in now...

What?  There's a hole in the subframe so I can use the cone compressor I just need to open a hole in the valence?  YES!  I can do that!

What?  The compressor tool hits the body before I can actually compress the cone (and is too far in so I can't utilize my fancy spacer?).



Was hoping to have the cylinder head back today, too, but now looking like the beginning of next week.  Running out of time fast...

[94touring]

I guess I'm incredibly confused.  Move tanks, remove shocks, drop arm, cones go right in.  Put back together. Worse case drain tanks and remove short lines if tanks don't just slide out of the way. 

[Mudhen]

I guess I'm incredibly confused.  Move tanks, remove shocks, drop arm, cones go right in.  Put back together. Worse case drain tanks and remove short lines if tanks don't just slide out of the way. 

I can't imagine what a huge FPITA it's going to be to move those tanks.

Hope I'm wrong.

[94touring]

I guess I'm incredibly confused.  Move tanks, remove shocks, drop arm, cones go right in.  Put back together. Worse case drain tanks and remove short lines if tanks don't just slide out of the way. 

I can't imagine what a huge FPITA it's going to be to move those tanks.

Hope I'm wrong.

Way easier than cutting holes in valences and still unable to compress a cone 

[94touring]

At the rate you're going, cut a hole in the rear quarter panels to access the top shock mounts lol 

[MiniDave]

The roll cage is in the way for getting a hole cut in the rear panel.

Looks like you need to come up with a spacer - maybe just a piece of black pipe?

[Mudhen]

I guess I'm incredibly confused.  Move tanks, remove shocks, drop arm, cones go right in.  Put back together. Worse case drain tanks and remove short lines if tanks don't just slide out of the way. 

I can't imagine what a huge FPITA it's going to be to move those tanks.

Hope I'm wrong.

Way easier than cutting holes in valences and still unable to compress a cone 

10 minutes to cut the hole...I couldn't have predicted the tool would be too short to reach the cone properly - shouldn't that be what the hole in the subframe is for?

[Mudhen]

I don't see any way other than draining the tanks...undo one tank hose and I'll have 2 openings to try to plug up while they're pouring out.

Then unbolt the metal pipe from the rear bulkhead to get it out if the way.

Undo top strap.  Undo lower strap (super fun with the nut up under the valence)

Try to remove my nice new/super tight filler neck grommets...try to take off the John Cooper covers...assume I won't have to deal with the fitted brass rings on those.

On the '65 with the old worn out seal and regular cap, one tank, I bet the would be easy.

It is what it is at this point I suppose I clearly exhausted all other options. Although I will look at the rear quarter - thanks for that, Dan!

[Mudhen]

And possibly having to do it multiple times/season will be pure pleasure as well.

Stage events give you 20 minutes for service...probably not doable.  LOL

[94touring]

I never remove the tank neck grommets.  Apply some wd40 or grease when sliding the necks back in. Use more rubber hoses than hard lines so if you're having to take tanks out on a regular basis for some reason there's no draining required. No need undo bottom strap from the floor, just undo where they meet. 

The super tight tank cap brass ring use a mallet and punch and knock them off.  I needed to use a very fine amount of black rtv (oil gas resistant) on the one Inno tank because it wasn't perfectly sealing and allowing gas to trickle out when full and making turns as it sloshed fuel around.

[MiniDave]

I used a puller to get the brass rings off, but you def have to remove those to get the filler neck out of the rubber grommet.

I would have to take another look at your pics, but if you could get like a 4" hole saw back there, that could give you good access to those top nuts.

I assume you have the metric threaded rubber donuts, if so you can buy a chunk of allthread from someplace like Fastenal and make your compressor shaft longer. I made my own puller this way and yes, I welded a nut on the end to turn/hold the shaft and a nut and big washer. For a spacer I just used a chunk of black pipe. The thread size is 14mm X 2mm allthread.....

[94touring]

I have a homemade compressor tool too, extra length rod and a steel pipe for a spacer.  However.....swap out your rear shocks now if those are on the to do list and knock the whole job out in one swoop. Doing it all twice ain't no fun.

[Mudhen]

Left side done!  Once I unbolted the metal pipe from the bulkhead and took it off the right side tank I was able to just swing it out of the way to move the left tank in.  I did remove the grommet so I didn't have to deal with the brass ring - once I got it started it pulled over the ring pretty easily - hope it goes back in as easily.

Another issue I had was removing that lower shock from the swingarm - as with that notch someone cut in the subframe to allow the lower shock bolt to fit past it - something is causing that swingarm to be REALLY close to the subframe.  An issue for another day.

Thanks for all the tips guys.

[94touring]

Very good!  Grommet in tact with the brass rings probably makes most sense.  Good deal.