Good morning all,
So if you saw one of my other post or in fact my only other post you will have seen that I bought a Cooper S a while ago. It is titled a '66 but with the help of you guys and some extensive internet and book searching, I believe it is a 67 Australian Cooper S.
I go the car home after finding out it does not fit on a 6x12 uhaul trailer if the wheels are not stock. :-[. Luckily the seller trailered it home for me. This will be a project and will take me quite some time to do. I will do most of the work myself and might even tackle the painting, but will see on that.
Here are some of the things I have found out.
The Hydro was converted to dry
Has a big block motor. Heater hose angled. studs
Has a rod change transmission.
Weber DCOE 45 carb.
The pictures will provide some of the exterior details
Here is my thought process for the path I will be taking.
Do a general cleaning inside and out to see what I am dealing with. - Done
Spin the motor to see if it does spin. - Done
Check the electrical. - Done
Try to start it and see what problems there are. - Done
Once I have it running, start the tear down.
To get running I rebuilt the carb, pulled the plugs and poured some oil down the cylinders to soak. Bought a new battery. Drip lined a container with fuel. Spun the motor to clean out most of the oil I poured in. Changed the oil. Re-installed spark plugs. The car started surprisingly easy and ran smooth. I did however note that the gaskets needs replacing as there was coolant seeping between the head and block and oil from the valve cover. So next steps is replacing gaskets.
I would love to hear thoughts and pointers.
Looks like a Mean machine!
Someone had some plans or got there with their designs..
Jag type dash (wood with too many switches)
Weber carb for performance.
No heater
looks like the wiring is custom and will be its own making to fit with dash = gauges and switches. clean engine bay = tidy of extra stuff.
Is the fire wall all 'made + blocked off metal?
Looks like with a gold valve over and black trim easy to complete the John Player SPecial Livery!
https://petrolicious.com/articles/what-makes-the-john-player-special-livery-so-alluring (https://petrolicious.com/articles/what-makes-the-john-player-special-livery-so-alluring)
Goodluck=what is your idea / long term goal?
Thanks!
Who ever started this did a great job on the wiring! Everything is done meticulously! No random splices, decent connectors, all harnessed.
As for the JSP, I think that is the look that he wanted to go for. The firewall has some filler panels, need to look into it some more. I will probably return it to its original colour. I am in Tucson, so the black will be a bit intense! Here are some more pics.
So, pre A+ motor but later rod change gearbox, good combination. I doubt it's the original cooper S motor tho, they didn't use a stud on the thermostat end, but rather a 5/16" bolt. Also, alternator instead of genny. Look for the tappet covers on the back of the motor?
Still, a good place to begin......can't wait to see updates as you get stuck into it. I like the John Player livery, hope you continue with it. I always liked the white/gold trim they did on some Lotus cars too.
Will you leave it RHD? It's very easy on these early cars to swap it over - you wood need a new dash panel tho ;D
I'm guessing you don't need a heater in Tucson? We have another member in your area, Joakwin. He just got his Clubman/Vtec back from paint, he might be a good resource for you.
Dave,
Yeah Donald from Minimania also noticed the pre A+ and rod change motor. No tappet covers on the back. Not sure exactly what that means, hopefully you will edumacate me? I am not to sure about the black? Maybe if I stubble on another mini I might keep it JSP.
I pulled the head off this weekend to do the gasket and am now wondering if I should replace the head studs, and if I do, do i go ARP? What are the thoughts on this? I also need to either figure out how to mount the new tires or find a shop that can hand mount them....
The early engines had removable tappet covers, the later engines did not.....again, only pointing out differences between the Cooper S and later 1275's.
Those head studs are fine as long as they're not rusted/pitted. If you're not making a 9000 rpm race motor standard studs are fine, no reason to spend the money on ARPs.
You should go online and get familiar with MiniSpares. ...they have everything for your car and even with shipping it's always way cheaper than buying here from one of the usual suppliers. There also is MiniSport, which has a US rep in Florida....Mike keeps some consumables at his place but most stuff will still come from the UK. Delivery time can be as little as 3 days as everything from MiniSpares comes DHL air.
Quote from: bokbfok on June 02, 2019, 08:02:17 PM
Dave,
Yeah Donald from Minimania also noticed the pre A+ and rod change motor. No tappet covers on the back. Not sure exactly what that means, hopefully you will edumacate me? I am not to sure about the black? Maybe if I stubble on another mini I might keep it JSP.
I pulled the head off this weekend to do the gasket and am now wondering if I should replace the head studs, and if I do, do i go ARP? What are the thoughts on this? I also need to either figure out how to mount the new tires or find a shop that can hand mount them....
Most tire shops can mount 10 inch tires if not go to a lawnmower shop their equipment is smaller and works well.
I would remove all those head studs out of the block and clean up the block face before you re install the head.
That JPS colour scheme seems like it was well done with lots of small details it may have been special ordered form one of the big companies like Radford or Wood & Pickett that did Mini's way back, it might be worth looking into if you want to keep it in that livery.
One thing you really have to watch for - if the previous owners didn't use zinc infused oil, the cam and tappets will be ruined - ask me how I know! About the only way to know for sure is to pull the engine and strip it down, as the tappets come out the bottom - that's why the question about the tappet covers on the back of the block - if it had those you can remove them thru there and see what they look like. That will tell you if the cam is gone too.
On the Innocenti I'm building, the cam and tappets were ruined, tho the rest of the engine seemed in good shape, decent compression and sounded fine on the test bed - but - wow were they knackered! Look at the pits!
Thanks guys,
I am not planning on a race engine, or at least not consciously. Thanks for the pointers on where to buy parts. I actually bought some items from MiniMania and it was in Minispares packaging. This last round of parts I got from Minispares and decided to replace the head studs as some of them were rusty.
I have been told about the oil and will be sure to use oil with zinc or use the additive.
For the head cleaning, any pointers on how to prevent debris from falling into the rod holes?
Lol on the minimania boxes. I got several parts and boxes from the previous owner and both the minimania and 7enterprises boxes just added their label to the box next to the minispares label.
If you ever need Australian specific pieces minisport.com.au has been a great help and place to deal with. They've even purchased stuff off eBay.au for me and shipped it with my other parts.
Quote from: gr8kornholio on June 05, 2019, 08:14:40 AM
Lol on the minimania boxes. I got several parts and boxes from the previous owner and both the minimania and 7enterprises boxes just added their label to the box next to the minispares label.
Hey! Those labels are very important. Adding those labels mean MM and Seven are entitled to charge a 300% markup the MiniSpares prices.
Some quick answers to question.
I plan on leaving it RHD.
I was on the fence about changing the colour scheme, actually leaning very much to changing the colour scheme. Red with white roof.
I wanted this to be a Sunday driver, but you never know when the bug will bite.
Yesterday I got the gaskets cleaned of the head, block and manifolds. Still need to clean the valves and will start the assembly process. I am in the process of ordering some replacement rubber parts for the steering/suspension and will get that refreshed. Also dropping the wheels and tires of today to get mounted.
.60 overbore.....that's as far as you can go with this block.
Interesting how the two end exhaust valves are so black, and the two center ones look normal.....
That's the great thing about cast iron heads, you can take a wire brush on a drill to them and you can't hurt em!
Quote from: MiniDave on June 18, 2019, 08:37:47 AM
Interesting how the two end exhaust valves are so black, and the two center ones look normal.....
I was curious about that also?
Quote from: MiniDave on June 18, 2019, 08:37:47 AM
That's the great thing about cast iron heads, you can take a wire brush on a drill to them and you can't hurt em!
Thanks for the tip, I got the heads, block and headers mating surfaces all cleaned up. The head is back together and am about to start on the axles and suspension.
I dropped of the tires to be installed by a shop that came recommenced by a british car repair shop as they deal with small diameter. They however messed up one tire. The sidewall has bulges in and there is something loose in the tire. I guess I will have to go argue tomorrow.
Update on the tire: Tire shop tire was bad to start with, Minimania says tire was shipped good. Well sh!t! I guess I gonna have to pay for this if I want a new one. Could probably use the bulged one for a spare.
Don't use it for a spare, throw it away.....it will fail on you when you need it the most. You can't fix a bulge in the sidewall.
yeah I know! That is what my brain tells me. My wallet on the other hand......
I know, just irks me! I will be ordering a new tire this week and dump the old one.
I'm in a similar boat, after digging an 8" long chunk of metal out of my left front tire I had them patch it and against their recommendation drove another 1000 miles on it. However, I ordered a replacement tire this morning......
May I ask from where?
I am looking at getting mine from Minispares as they are cheaper that MM even with cost pricing. Getting the Falken FK07E
MM is over priced plain and simple. Order tyres from minispares if you can't find whatever size it is you need from a main tyre supplier in the US.
I bought the last several sets of tires from MiniSpares too.....that's where I'll get the replacement too
Quote from: 94touring on July 02, 2019, 12:46:55 PM
MM is over priced plain and simple. Order tyres from minispares if you can't find whatever size it is you need from a main tyre supplier in the US.
I have definitely noticed that. I have only order from MM once, they had a sale that made them cheaper, considering shipping. Everything else is from MS and will probably continue being so. I have quite the basket on their site and will be ordering on the 4th, as I will have a day to work on the car and see what else is in need of replacing.
Thanks all for the great tips thus far!
I will keep that in mind, Thanks. The tire however they wanted $85 shipping included, which they said was their cost. Same tire from MS is $73, shipping included.
I will try the price matching in the future.
Bless me guys I have done nothing! It had been 2 months and 7 days since my last posting/wrenching.....
Well, it has been a while. Started working on it again as it was too hot to work out in the sun on the car! The wife took that as me losing interest and promptly has some remodel ambitions, so that happened. I do however have an update on the tires. I had the tire shop remove the tire that had a bulge. When I got home, I noticed the bead had a separation tear in it, right were the bulge is. Took some pics and but the time I got around to email the HQ, another tire was flat. Emailed them and send some pics. And today I can report, that they are installing two new tires, at a different location, by hand. They did how ever screw up and ordered the wrong tires. Instead of Falken FK07e, they got the Yokohamas A008. I guess for pushing the car around the drive way, that will do. Will keep the same tires on the same axle, but will probably order 2 A008 when I start driving it, someday
Glad to see you back to work!
A008's are a great tire for a Mini, you will like them!
Love the JPS style Valve cover! Growing up in Belgium in the 70's, everything cool was John Player Special black and gold! Awesome!!! And a black mini, my favorite!
Tore down the front drive axle and suspension components yesterday and will tackle the rear today. I am making a list of thing to order. If anyone in the Tucson, AZ area needs anything from minispares and want to split some shipping cost, let me know. Will order later tonight.
Working on the rear hubs today. Noticed it still has ball bearings in. All the components on this car look new, but old if that makes any sense. Almost like it was newly restored 20 years ago and then just left in a field? I know the previous owner died in late 2000's and his daughter just left the car sitting.
So to the question, replace the new looking balls with rollers?
Cheers!
Wait until the ball bearings wear out.
I agree with Larry, just repack them, new seals and they'll be good to go for years.
Thanks! I was totally going to do that, till the drivers side rear inner race decided to seize on the axle. So will be replacing them all.
Another question, what are the thoughts on HILO's?
Hi los are the only way to go in my opinion.
My gut told me as much, but for someone who has always been on the side lines and never even driven in a Mini :-[, I figured I would ask the experts!
For one it makes reassembling new suspension so much easier, and secondly with new or old cones allows you to get the ride height perfect. Rather than rolling around extra high on new cones or bottoming out when they start to sag.
I second the hilos and also adding all the adjustable suspension bits. These cars were not consistent when they were new and at 50+ years they are even more out of square.
I agree, I like the lower control arms sold by Mini Sport best, they're very robust and very easy to set.
Front tie bars.... https://usa.minisport.com/c-8g4249-mini-sport-adjustable-front-suspension-tie-rod-pair.html (https://usa.minisport.com/c-8g4249-mini-sport-adjustable-front-suspension-tie-rod-pair.html)
Lower control arms.... https://usa.minisport.com/spdsp431a-heavy-duty-adjustable-mini-bottom-suspension-arms.html (https://usa.minisport.com/spdsp431a-heavy-duty-adjustable-mini-bottom-suspension-arms.html)
I also really like their Smooth A Ride rubber cones, they truly do make the ride a lot better without compromising the handling. If you haven't bought cones yet, consider these....it comes with the hi lo kit and shocks. https://usa.minisport.com/mslms0400-moulton-smootha-ride-kit-by-mini-sport.html (https://usa.minisport.com/mslms0400-moulton-smootha-ride-kit-by-mini-sport.html)
On the rear bearings.....a lot of people swear that you can only use Timken bearings - but I've found the std bearings sold by MiniSpares (and probably the same at Sport) are absolutely fine - I have more than 10K miles on a set in my Racing Green Mini right now with no issues. The thing you have to do is adjust them properly. Many people swear the only correct way to adjust them is to tighten the nut to 60ft lbs, that may have been right on the original ball bearings, but to do these new tapered bearings you do them like any other car..... snug up till they drag, back off till it spins freely and snug up just enough to remove all play, then put the cotter key in.
You'll need two sets of these.... https://usa.minisport.com/ghk1548-mini-rear-wheel-bearing-kit.html (https://usa.minisport.com/ghk1548-mini-rear-wheel-bearing-kit.html)
You guys are great! 4.gif
I just about bought all the bits needed.
Minidave: Thanks for the links and info on bearing adjustment! I got all those is some variety, with the exception of the lower arms. I will add it to my next order, which might be in a while! I do wish shipping was not so much! Damn Amazon prime! Any how, I will keep you posted as the bits come in and make it onto the car!
Yea, second on the bearing info, cause I'm sure my rear ones are just snugged down to the torque specs in the book. Will redo with this method and use it one the fronts as well... or is that different?
The fronts need 125? feet pounds of the torque. If you don't torque them down like a mother they get loose. Rears don't need to be wrenched down. On my rear disc conversion it gives no torque value but says tighten till snug and things spin freely.
Fronts are 165lb, latest cars were just shy of 200!
Yeah I knew it was a shit ton. Before buying my 300ft lb wrench I'd jump on a breaker bar to tighten.
I just use my impact wrench, tightens them up nicely, and takes them off with no effort or fuss! 77.gif
Thanks 77.gif
If you get the smootharide kit, just remember you need the special knuckles for future replacement:
https://usa.minisport.com/mslms0502-mini-sport-adjusta-ride-knuckle-joint.html (https://usa.minisport.com/mslms0502-mini-sport-adjusta-ride-knuckle-joint.html)
I am not sure what year the adjustaride "hilos" are on our one car, but they use standard knuckles.
That's why I suggested the kit, it comes with the knuckles, hi los and everything you need including shocks tuned for the kit.
Finally got all the parts in, going to start assembly this weekend. One Q, why not swap the left rear axle stub to a RHD thread?
Quote from: bokbfok on October 24, 2019, 08:50:50 AM
One Q, why not swap the left rear axle stub to a RHD thread?
Tradition!! ;D
And I guess a secondary reason might have something to do with an engineer long ago seeing a potential problem in some circumstances of it loosening itself.
Fair enough! :-[
This weekend I got the rear assembled, and started with the front. Got the new cone in on the passenger side and tried getting the hi-lows in. No luck. Guess I need the compressor? The old cones where so compressed that the trumpets just fell out and the cone came out no problem.
Yes you will need a cone compressor to get the front cones in
Quote from: MiniDave on November 03, 2019, 07:18:25 PM
Yes you will need a cone compressor to get the front cones in
Compressor made, one side done. Will do the other the weekend.
Making good process..... 77.gif
Been awhile.
I got the suspension, drive train bits and brakes back on the car. I also got the old "leather" gunk out of the fuel tanks and working on cleaning them. I was planning on doing the POR 15 treatment on them, cleaning, prepping and then sealing. The car is running, bit loud with the current exhaust (will add one to the next order).
One question that I have. How do I lock the car? Only one door has a lock on it? Is this normal or did one of the PO do something weird here? I will be ordering a set of lock but currently on back order.
Early cars had one lock. The other door locks from the inside.
I will have to look into that, thanks!
Did you say that "leather" stuff came out of the inside of the fuel tank? :-\
I had the ones for this 66 powder coated (only the outside) and they look terrific. Powder coat is tough too, hard to scratch it once it's completely cured out. Just be sure to rinse thoroughly when they come back as the sand blasting dust and debris still gets inside even tho they plug all the holes
Quote from: MiniDave on December 23, 2019, 09:23:45 AM
Did you say that "leather" stuff came out of the inside of the fuel tank? :-\
I had the ones for this 66 powder coated (only the outside) and they look terrific. Powder coat is tough too, hard to scratch it once it's completely cured out.
Yup, out of one of the tanks. There was more. I guess that is what happens when fuel gets left in a tank for 13+ years! I have been rinsing the tanks with muriatic acid to remove the stuck on fuel varnish. The smaller tank is done, working on the bigger one. Almost have it clean. I did find a radiator shop that is willing to boil it, but was concerned I was gonna end up with two halves.
I like the powder coat idea!