So looking for good advice on how to re-hang and adjust mk3-mk4 mini doors back on a shell from respray. As we all know, each (internal type) door has 2 brackets and each bracket has two screws. Needing to know what recommendations are out there to know how to adjust by tightening screws on top vs bottom. If door is binding on panel, do you loosen and use shims and then work with bottom bracket first?
I noticed that when I tighten top screw on top bracket, it pulls door slightly in, and out a bit on bottom edge, etc. But not sure if there is some methodology here - or all just "you get what you get and every mini is different" etc.
Also, anyone know what the SAE nyloc nut thread size is on the internal brackets?
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I'll start off by saying prior to spraying it's imperative to mount the doors and check that after metal work such as skins, a panels, and hinge mount panels that everything actually fits. At that point in time I tighten down all 4 bolts, no specific order, and make adjustments with shims to get the best fit. I will often use a shop rag to sit on the lower door frame which helps not only keep from hitting paint on paint, but helps fit the frame best. Be very careful the top of the window frame isn't rubbing against the pillar as well. .using a thin piece of cloth taped in place is good practice. Doors can be pretty tricky to fit which is why I like doing it all pre paint. I've messed up more than one door/a panel over the years and ended up having to respray.
Yes 1/4 unf. I kinda chuckle seeing fancy mounting kits. You can't see them and they get covered in road dirt after a drive.
If you're going to use stainless on stainless, be sure to use some anti-sieze, nothing worse than a galled stainless nut on a stainless bolt......
I tend to agree with Dan, for stuff that doesn't show a good cad plated or zinc plated bolt is fine.
I got a stainless kit as well. It wasn't a visual thing. I got it for 2 reasons.
1) Mine were rusted to oblivion. See the attached photo.
2) They are WAY thicker than the stock pieces. I could have made some out of the bar stock I have in the garage, but these were already laser (or waterjet) cut to the exact dimensions and were cheap enough for me. The original brackets would bend and deflect under tension and made for a really crappy final fit. Hard to predict how much they would bend under torque. The stainless ones aren't gonna bend... at all. haha.
I'll also be getting some aftermarket hinges to replace the crappy ones I have in there right now. I have mismatched studs (Dan probably knows this all too well) and they are just not in good shape so they have to be replaced. Mostly an excuse to get more DSN stuff. lol
Hey if your hinges aren't sagging I'll take them and re stud them for future use on something.
The main thing with the hinge mounting plates is they're really there to disperse the pressure of the door weight. The metal you're bolting to on the hinge support panel is a couple layers combined and has flex to it. You'll notice when you take these little plates off they're all bent up usually. I've gotten to where if they're bad or missing I don't bother buying new, I find thick (or double up) grade 8 washers big in diameter yet fit the 1/4th inch stud and put them in their place. I'm just concerned with keeping the door from sagging. Something concourse is a different story...
Thanks guys - unfortunately everything is painted and doors on and for the most part - they look aligned - well, except the drivers door. So with that being said, I need to get this one adjusted. So yes, I have taped all the door edges so that there is minimal damage from possible rubbing...all door closures are by feel and sight and very slow so I can see the areas that may be binding. This is all before I have even tried latching the doors!
So I forgot to say I do not have any shims....and I just read about these last night. So how do these shim plates work? I see them as flat footers in different styles...Im sure I can make my own. Even washers may word...but do these go between the door bracket and body of car? And by adding a shim/thickness you push door back or down (depending on top or bottom bracket that you shim)?
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I make my own. They go between the hinge and the hinge attach panel you mount to. If you add one on the bottom it gives the bottom half of the gap between the a panel and door more gap and reduces gap on the opposite end, while also tilting the upper right corner of the door closer to the frame. So just look at where you want the door then visualize what effects shim placement will have.
Quote from: 94touring on February 29, 2016, 06:07:11 AM
I make my own. They go between the hinge and the hinge attach panel you mount to. If you add one on the bottom it gives the bottom half of the gap between the a panel and door more gap and reduces gap on the opposite end, while also tilting the upper right corner of the door closer to the frame. So just look at where you want the door then visualize what effects shim placement will have.
Nice - so Ideally you ****carefully**** remove door, slide a shim in between bracket and panel - insert the bolts back through the panel holes and tighten. Rinse and repeat as needed....sound about right? Taking door on and off kind of sounds dangerous to my fresh paint - making your point even more impactful.
Yeah take a door off, place a shim on the hinge, the holes are for the studs to go through, then bolt it up. I've spent hours on doors before which is why I like doing it prior to paint.
Quote from: 94touring on February 29, 2016, 08:14:00 AM
Yeah take a door off, place a shim on the hinge, the holes are for the studs to go through, then bolt it up. I've spent hours on doors before which is why I like doing it prior to paint.
Also why my LH door sometimes needs an extra attempt to close it fully. I've not been able to get it right yet, most likely never will.
Looks like I'll be revisiting my LH door before long. I noticed quite a bit of scuffing on the door latch, so I think I need to try to lift the upper rear-most corner of the door.
I haven't had the doors off in over 10+ years - I'll need to remove the front tire to gain access to the hinge nuts, right? Assuming so, does having the front of the car lifted off the ground affect the 'hang' of the doors or is the shell stiff enough that it doesn't matter?
Maybe I'll get lucky and can lure Hyacinth into the garage to help, otherwise it'll be balancing and supporting on jackstands and a fair amount of praying.
Wheel off and jacking the car will not effect anything. Check that your hinges aren't sagging, which sounds like there's a good chance they are.
Also the studs are prone to breaking. Lube them fora day or two and hit with some heat for good measure.
I replaced the hinges with genuine Rover hinges in 2003 (when I had the doors off and rattle canned the car), so they should be good. I've still got the old hinges in a box, if I can get to them. My garage has shrunken, too many spare parts and supplies...
Thanks for the tip on the breaking the studs - I remember having greased them when I installed them, but don't know if the budget anti-seize was any good.