Due to arrive soon

Started by 94touring, August 07, 2020, 01:46:39 PM

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MPlayle

The "sleds" are what I was referring to.

I was unaware of the issue regarding the heat exchangers and larger diameter 'J' tubes not being compatible.

On my first car - a 1973 T-3 Squareback, it still had the foactory exchangers, 'sleds' & 'J' tubes.  I was cautioned not to remove the exchangers without something to close the sides of the 'sleds'.  I kept the exchangers and replaced the connections to the body channels in order to retain winter heating.  I was always toasty in the winters, although it was a dry heat.

94touring

Ah. Your T3 would have different tins that wrap around the bottom of the heads. The T1 bug/bus engines had different deflectors. Some people even use the t3 deflectors on the T1s.

94touring

Playle, here is an example of the t3 deflectors vs the t1. The t1 in the pic doesn't have the piece that sits under the head that I showed in the earlier pic, which the t3 does have installed.

94touring

Gave the initial ring break-in oil change today and have put a couple hundred miles on it the past 2 days. Even started driving it home again. Head and oil temps seem to have stabilized.  It's running an easy 20 degrees cooler if not more, giving me a comfortable margin for safety.  I also added a couple scoops a company in Europe make which don't screw on and are nearly invisible.  I did a back to back test run and they did make a slight difference on peak head temps on a particular stretch of highway with a long uphill grade. 8 degrees lower at peak temp with them installed. They also keep the engine bay considerably cooler which makes restarts easier if I stop at a gas station. I was initially getting what I assume was vapor lock with all the heat generated.  I still have a few tweaks to my tune to dial the whole power band in a little tighter, but it's 90% there. The torque has been vastly improved and really kicks in around 3500 rpms, pulling strong all the way till you decide to let off. I can't help but think the v tec kicks in at 3500 lol. The exhaust has been so much quieter that a few times coming to a stop I think it's stalled out.

94touring

I towed the vespa home. Zings right along 70mph, up hills, into the wind....ain't no problem.  Head and oil temps stayed in the safety zone. 

skmini


94touring

Oh I forgot to say I gave the transaxle gear oil It's 300 mile change.  No big chunks of metal came out this time!  :grin:  Definitely needed that initial oil change however. Very black unlike the motor oil change that looked pristine.  Another thing I decided to do, which I can't recall if I mentioned it, was I have another set of 185R14 wheels and tires as an option for the rear end.  I have been running 195R14s on the rear for awhile now, but figured in the summer time and when I'm towing, the stock 185s might be a better choice. It raises my tach about 125rpms which keeps my fan speed higher for cooling and it's cruising in the fatter part of my torque curve where it's got gobs more power available.

MiniDave

I'm surprised 125 rpm makes that much difference?
Complete failure at retirement

1989 Cooper Racing Green
2009 Clubman S
2014 Audi Allroad

94touring

#633
The fan speed is multipled by 2.x times per 100 rpms.  I say X because I have the smaller alternator pulley so it's increased further. It adds a good bit more CFM going by charts and graphs some VW brainiacs made.  Power wise the difference between 3450-3500 and 3600rpms is actually fairly noticeable too.  3800 is probably peak torque going by seat of the pants.  Back with the old 2110 setup there were times I'd slow at speed depending on load and wind if I was cruising around 3500rpms. But if I got the rpms up to 3800rpms it would maintain speed under high load conditions.  3800 rpms with the 195s was 75mph.  The 185s lower it 2-3mph at 3800.  A little less wind resistance.

cstudep

Quote from: 94touring on May 10, 2023, 01:24:57 PMI towed the vespa home. Zings right along 70mph, up hills, into the wind....ain't no problem.  Head and oil temps stayed in the safety zone. 

So what's the over/under on how long it takes before we see the Vespa stripped down for matching paint?

94touring

Quote from: cstudep on May 10, 2023, 03:36:11 PM
Quote from: 94touring on May 10, 2023, 01:24:57 PMI towed the vespa home. Zings right along 70mph, up hills, into the wind....ain't no problem.  Head and oil temps stayed in the safety zone. 

So what's the over/under on how long it takes before we see the Vespa stripped down for matching paint?

Definitely not happening! 

94touring

Towed the mini home today. Aside from very gusty winds that had me swerving a little  it drove without issues.  70mph into the wind with head temps at a safe temperature.

94touring

200 miles towing the mini and got better gas mileage towing with this new setup than I was getting before just driving normally!  As I got closer to the campsite noted that I was still showing a quarter tank, which I wasn't expecting for towing.  Topped it off and sure enough it got 1 mpg more than I used to get.

94touring

Gas mileage comparison in without towing. Getting an easy 4mpg more now. Basically  at 20mpg from 16mpg on a good day.  If I drove 60mph and stayed off the interstate I'd bet I could squeeze several more out of it.  I have light throttle lean cruise hanging in the 16s air fuel ratio. Plugs right along no problems.

94touring

Found a Brazilian site, which needs translated, that has information on my bus. 25,087 were made in 1983, and disc brakes were added that year in Brazil. Weighing in at 2733lbs with a payload of 1600lbs. 7:2:1 compression, oof that's low! 

94touring

Have a new toy to fiddle around with.  Will be replacing the black box ecu, which eventually will go either on the mini for it's turbo conversion or the bug whenever I build it up.  I had ran the black box on the mini for awhile with good success, well after I went back to a points/condenser distributor that was locked out. I'm having similar issues, though milder, on the bus of startup kick back which is annoying  :rolleyes:  I am guessing it's due to the electronic distributor.  I could toss in a non electronic but instead have different plans.  The issue with dual webers on a type 1 motor, particularly with a bigger cam, is lack of vacuum signal. This means my timing at cruise is lower than I'd like it to be.  I have my air fuel ratios at light throttle cruise nicely in the 16s, I just need timing around 40 degrees to go with it. I can adjust my map to dip into higher timing, except that since it's manifold pressure based and when I do mountain trips at high altitude, I'd need to adjust the maps or I'd be advanced too much for WOT driving.  Anyways, this trigger wheel setup with ecu also comes with a throttle position sensor. So it won't matter if my vacuum signal is poor, I can use throttle position and get a happier tune, without the kickback issues I get half the time. 

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